Distant and close Baku. What you need to know when planning a trip to Azerbaijan. Where to go in Baku and what to see? Baku interesting for tourists
Just a few years ago, the capital of Azerbaijan could not be called a popular tourist city, but now everything is changing rapidly. The main city of our closest neighbor turns out to be no less interesting than other European cities.
Thanks to the oil industry, Baku is growing and actively developing. Urban planners have grandiose plans for the development of the city, but even now it has something to surprise even sophisticated tourists.
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What to see
The Baku Old City, locally known as Icheri Sheher, surrounded by a perfectly preserved fortress wall, is vividly depicted in the film “The Diamond Arm” - it was in Baku in 1968 that the “foreign” episodes of the cult film were filmed.
The Old Town has a special atmosphere; small hotels, ancient mosques, baths, cafes and numerous souvenir shops are hidden in its cozy cobblestone alleys.
Anna Ivanova
Icheri Sheher and its two main pearls - the Maiden Tower and the Palace of the Shirvanshahs - are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
What impresses Baku most is the contrast of ancient and modern architecture.
The old city and the glass skyscrapers “Flame Towers” visible from everywhere in one frame are the calling card of the metropolis; you will see them on any postcards.
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Built five years ago, the Flame Towers are the pride of Baku and are now the tallest buildings in the city. Next to the towers there is a large observation deck, which offers an excellent view of the entire Baku Bay. You can get there by free funicular, which departs from the embankment.
In addition to the three notable towers, Baku has a lot of other interesting modern projects. The first one you will most likely see is the unusual building of the international airport. The most impressive, without any doubt, must be recognized as the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center, designed by the famous Iranian architect Zaha Hadid. A huge white structure with a streamlined shape, entirely woven from smooth lines with intricate curves, was recognized as the best building in the world in 2014.
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The projects that are yet to be implemented are no less impressive. A lotus-shaped shopping center and a grandiose crescent hotel are under construction; the White City is growing on the shores of the Caspian Sea - a promising area of new buildings of different architectural styles and purposes. The scale of all these projects reflects Baku’s desire to stand on par with the largest European capitals. As well as the holding of the Formula 1 Grand Prix since 2016 on a track laid in the very center, around the Old Town.
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In addition to its external appearance, Baku has something to show from the inside: local museums make full use of interactive technologies. It is worth climbing the Maiden Tower, on several floors of which its main legends are told in detail; explore the exhibition of the dimly lit halls of the Shirvanshahs' Palace to delve into the history of Azerbaijan; then move on to contemporary art at the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center, where, in addition to futuristic interiors, you can see models of the most beautiful buildings in the city.
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Don't miss the Carpet Museum, an unusual building designed in the shape of a rolled carpet, where creations from different schools of carpet weaving are exhibited.
Not all the charm of Baku can be appreciated in daylight, so don’t miss the opportunity to walk around the city in the evening when it gets dark. The spectacular illumination of the streets, the illumination of buildings and fountains cannot fail to impress. The Flame Towers with their changing lighting are especially good at this time of day.
A spoon of tar
Everything can’t be exceptionally good—every city has its drawbacks. In Baku, first of all, be prepared for traffic jams, especially in the historical center, where there are many narrow streets and problems with parking.
The second thing that may unpleasantly surprise you is the abundance of construction projects. This is the other side of a rapidly growing city, a massive and natural phenomenon.
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Non-smoking tourists will inevitably encounter problems when visiting Baku restaurants. There is no smoking ban in Azerbaijan, nor is there any division into smoking and non-smoking rooms. You will have to endure cigarette smoke in the hall or choose sparsely populated establishments where you are less likely to encounter smoking patrons at the next table.
What to try
One of the main advantages of Baku is its national cuisine, which includes many lamb dishes, which Azerbaijanis know how to cook like no other. These are the well-known kutabs, dolma, lula-kebab, lesser-known jiz-byz, saj, piti, kyufta-bozbash, dushbara and several types of pilaf.
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In addition, they are no less specialists in exquisite oriental desserts.
All these dishes are not only tasty, but also very affordable, especially now, when the exchange rate of the Azerbaijani manat has fallen along with the price of oil.
Attitude towards Russian tourists
Since Azerbaijan is a former Soviet republic, many local residents have close ties to Russia. Russian tourists are treated extremely kindly; in some homely establishments they may ask with interest where you are from, and then bring you a treat from the restaurant.
Almost all local residents in Baku speak Russian, although in some situations they may switch to English.
When to go
Azerbaijan is a sunny country, so there is a high probability of experiencing clear weather at any time of the year. The coldest month is January, during which time there is snow in the mountains and strong winds blow throughout the country. Whereas on the coast (where Baku is located) there is no snow, but the temperature can fluctuate from 0 to 12 degrees Celsius, and this is quite comfortable for walking around the city.
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For those who are not interested in traveling in the cold season, it is better to choose the warm season: already in April everything is in bloom on the coast, and in May the real summer begins. We should also not forget that the Azerbaijani capital is located on the shores of the Caspian Sea, and there are equipped beaches in the vicinity of Baku.
To explore any major city you need to spend about 3-4 days. Baku is no exception, but if you want to see other places in addition to the capital, you should budget more time, depending on the scope of your plans.
How to navigate
Perhaps the best way to travel for a tourist is on foot. Thanks to walking, you can better navigate the city and gradually penetrate into its very essence.
But not all distances are suitable for the legs; sometimes you cannot do without transport. In the case of Baku, it’s worth using the metro - at least to get an idea of it.
For short distances, the local taxi "Eggplant" is good - these are cabs purchased in London for Eurovision 2012 - spacious, comfortable taxis that travel on a meter. To travel to and from the airport, you can use the well-known Uber taxi system: calling a car is convenient, since there is free Wi-Fi at the airport.
What to bring
Numerous souvenir shops in the Old City sell famous carpets, elements of Azerbaijani clothing and household textiles. Pay attention to the colorful jewelry and national dishes, for example, armudas (pear-shaped tea glasses) or original table souvenirs in the form of pomegranates.
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It’s also worth taking a closer look at regional food and drinks - friends and family will certainly be happy with oriental sweets and good wine.
In the capital of Azerbaijan, the past meets the future face to face. The modern architecture of the city is not inferior in beauty to the historical buildings of the Icheri Sheher region and has great cultural value. The flame towers rival in expressiveness the ancient Maiden Tower. The magnificent forms of the Shirvanshahs' palace are somewhere even inferior to the pomp and luxury of the newly built Bibi-Heybat mosque.
Today, Baku enjoys all the benefits of generous financial flows from oil and gas production, as well as the rich historical heritage that the city inherited from the colorful events of previous centuries. The city's tourism industry is developing very rapidly, as new cultural sites are constantly being built in Baku and interesting places for guests of the republic appear.
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What to see and where to go in Baku?
The most interesting and beautiful places for walks. Photos and brief description.
A cultural center located on the avenue of the same name, which was built by a Turkish construction holding company according to the design of the famous architect Zaha Hahid. The complex is multifunctional and includes spacious conference rooms, a museum, offices and exhibition galleries. The Heydar Aliyev Center was erected for the purpose of studying the cultural values, language, history and traditions of the Azerbaijani nation.
An ancient residential area surrounded by a powerful fortress wall. Icheri Sheher is a national historical monument of great cultural value. People have lived on this site since the Bronze Age. During the Early Middle Ages, quite dense residential development already existed here. In the 17th – early 19th centuries, Icheri Sheher was the capital of the Baku Khanate.
The boulevard was laid out at the beginning of the 20th century on the initiative of the city authorities. As part of the work on developing the future avenue and park, the embankment was beautified, trees were planted and infrastructure elements were built. Twice a significant part of the boulevard was flooded due to rising levels of the Caspian Sea. In the 2000s. A musical fountain, a theater, a cinema were built in the park, and the attractions were restored. The last reconstruction was carried out in 2015.
Three skyscrapers rising in the modern central part of Baku, which are made in the form of flames. The grandiose evening illumination creates the effect of giant torches pointing into the sky. The lighting design of the Flame Towers is recognized as the best in the world. Construction of the structures was completed in 2012. The interior space is occupied by a hotel, residential apartments and commercial premises.
The exact time of construction of the structure is unknown. It is believed that it could have been built during the reign of the Sassanid dynasty in the 3rd-7th centuries. or even earlier. In the 12th century, it became part of the defensive system of the Baku fortress. Not everything is clear about the original purpose either. Perhaps it was a ritual building of followers of Zoroastrianism. In 2000, the tower was included in the UNESCO list.
Palace complex of the 13th-16th centuries, built in the Shirvan-Apsheron architectural style. The residence of the Shirvanshahs was located on the territory of the palace at a time when Baku was the capital of Shirvan. The complex includes a 15th-century mosque, a royal tomb, a Divan Khan, a bathhouse and the mausoleum of the medieval scientist and thinker S. Ya. Jalaleddin Bakuvi. Despite the fact that the buildings of the ensemble were erected at different times, it looks quite harmonious.
The temple was built in 1998-99. on the site of a historic 12th-century mosque that was blown up as part of a government program to eradicate religion in the 1930s. It is believed that the first building was erected according to the design of the architect Mahmoud ibn Saad. The new building was built in full accordance with the canons of the Shirvan architectural school. For this, photographs from the early 20th century, old plans and other historical documents were widely used.
The temple of the early 20th century, erected according to the design of Z. Akhmedbekov with funds from local philanthropist N. Ashurbekova. After 1917, the mosque was closed, and until 1943 the building was used for other purposes. He managed to avoid the sad fate of the Bibi-Heybat mosque. The inscriptions on the external facade of the building are made of gold; valuable mahogany was used to make window openings and doors.
The mosque is located within the historical quarter of Icheri Sheher. Some researchers believe that in the pre-Islamic era there was a pagan fire sanctuary on the site of the temple. The first building was erected at the beginning of the 14th century. After its destruction in the 17th century, the mosque was rebuilt. The second building existed until the 20th century, then it was destroyed by fire. The building from the beginning of the 20th century has reached us.
A modern temple built in 2012-14. by decree of President I. Aliyev. Its opening took place in 2015. The head of Azerbaijan wished that the mosque be named in honor of his father Heydar Aliyev, a charismatic and revered leader who made an invaluable contribution to the development of statehood and national identity. The building was built in the traditional Shirvan-Apsheron style.
The museum was founded in 1967. At first, the exhibition was located on the territory of the Juma Mosque. In 2014, a new building was built to house the extensive collection. The exhibition includes about 14 thousand carpets, national clothes, jewelry, embossed dishes and other items of applied art. The museum plays an important role in studying the history of the carpet. His team has repeatedly taken part in international symposiums.
The museum is an important cultural center of Azerbaijan. It contains the world's largest collection of Azerbaijani literature and conducts serious scientific activities. It was founded in 1939, but the first visitors were able to get here only in May 1945, immediately after the end of the Great Patriotic War. The museum is located in a 19th-century mansion, which underwent extensive restoration in the 1960s.
The gallery exhibits an extensive collection of works by Azerbaijani, Russian and European artists, housed in separate thematic rooms. The total number of exhibits is more than 17 thousand. In addition to paintings, the funds contain jewelry, textiles, dishes, carpets, sculptures and other artifacts. The museum was founded in 1936 on the territory of a picturesque 19th century mansion.
The collection is located on an area of about 2 thousand m² and has about 120 thousand items, of which 20 thousand are constantly exhibited. The remaining exhibits are kept in museum collections. The collection covers a wide period of history of the eastern part of the Caucasus, including the rise and fall of kingdoms, the advent of various religions, the origins of traditions and other educational sections. The museum was opened in 1920.
The gallery contains works by masters who worked in the 20th-21st centuries. About 800 paintings are exhibited here, as well as many photographs, sculptures and various installations. The museum provides an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with the works of contemporary Azerbaijani artists - E. Shakhtakhtinskaya, O. Eldarov, S. Bahlulzade, T. Salakhov and many others. There is also a department with works by Western European masters.
The meeting is located on the territory of the Icheri Sheher quarter. The museum has existed since 2002. Its collection is made up of exhibits from a private collection of books belonging to Z. Salakhova, the sister of the contemporary artist T. Salakhov. Over 30 years, she has collected more than 6.5 thousand books from 64 countries. The museum collections contain quite rare editions of famous classics, released in limited editions.
State Theater of Azerbaijan, founded in 1920. Over time, the stage changed several names until it received a name in honor of the national poet S. Vurgun. The theater's repertoire has always been composed of the best works of Russian and foreign classics, as well as works of Azerbaijani authors. In 2006-2008 A general reconstruction of the building was carried out. Every year the repertoire is updated, 6-8 new performances are included in the playbill.
The scene has existed since the beginning of the 20th century. Residents of the city call the theater “Baku Opera”. F. Chaliapin, M. Plisetskaya, E. Obraztsova, M. Caballe, V. Gordeev and other stars of the ballet and opera stage performed here at one time. The theater building was erected at the expense of the Mailov brothers. M. Mussorgsky's opera "Boris Godunov" was chosen as the premiere production. The modern repertoire consists of immortal classical works.
An architectural monument of the early 20th century, built at the expense of industrialist M. Mukhtarov and designed by I. Ploshko. The tycoon decided to build the palace after traveling through Europe with his wife Lisa, who was impressed by the magnificent Venetian palazzos. The architecture of the building is a mixture of graceful French Gothic and luxurious Italian Baroque.
The square decorated the capital of Azerbaijan in 2010. It was founded by decree of President I. Aliyev. The project was developed by an American architectural company in collaboration with an Azerbaijani firm. The area covers an area of 60 hectares. In the middle there is a 162-meter spire, topped with a national flag of gigantic dimensions (length - 70 meters, width - 35 meters, weight - about 350 kg).
The stadium opened in 2015. According to the UEFA classification, it belongs to the 4th category. The opening/closing ceremonies of the 1st European Games, as well as some athletics competitions, took place on its territory. It is also planned to host matches of the 2020 European Football Championship. The arena is multi-sport, that is, adapted for various types of competitions. It is designed for 69,870 spectators.
City park built in the 1930s. Throughout the Soviet period in the history of Azerbaijan, it enjoyed great popularity among residents of the capital. In the 1990s. On the territory of the park, burials were made of people who died during the events of Black January. Since then it has been declared a memorial. There is an observation deck in the park, which can be reached by the city funicular.
The alley is located on the territory of Nagorny Park. It is a mass grave where victims of the events of January 1990 are buried, as well as people who died during the outbreak of the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict. Previously, there was a Muslim cemetery here. During the funeral process, the tombstone of the “Shahids of 1918” was discovered. The bodies found in old graves were re-buried in a mass grave.
One of the oldest parks in Baku, which was laid out in the second half of the 19th century. Since then, it has been reconstructed and changed its name several times. The square is named after the poet Khagani. The garden is located on a small area of 0.8 hectares. In its central part there is a swimming pool and the sculpture “The Three Graces”. The park alleys are designed in such a way that they lead to a central sculptural composition.
One of the first squares of Baku, the architectural appearance of which took shape by the middle of the 19th century. The place is surrounded by green alleys and city monuments of the 19th-20th centuries: the Grand Hotel, an old cinema, museums and an Armenian temple. In the center there is a fountain with an original sculptural group. In 2010, the square was reconstructed, as a result of which the area acquired a more modern appearance.
How to get there, what to see, where to stay, take a walk and have an inexpensive but satisfying meal - these are the main questions that arise in your head when you are planning a train trip to this or that corner of the world, and Baku is no exception. Having visited the capital of Azerbaijan, I have prepared a short guide for those wishing to visit Baku, the largest city in the Caucasus, for a short 2-3 day visit.
Visa issue and registration
A visa to Azerbaijan is not required for Russian citizens for a stay of up to 90 days. To cross the border, you only need to have a foreign passport valid during your stay in Azerbaijan. Mandatory insurance to enter the country is also not needed, but out of habit I took it through the Cherehapa service, God protects the safe.
The question often arises on the Internet about the mandatory registration of foreigners in Azerbaijan and the possible extortion of money by border guards on the way back, in the absence of it. According to State Migration Service of the Republic of Azerbaijan– foreign citizens or stateless persons, if they plan to stay on the territory of Azerbaijan for more than 10 days, must be registered at their place of stay during this time; registration is not required for those staying for less than 10 days. Registration is free, no state fee is charged.
In order to protect myself from possible problems when leaving Azerbaijan, I took a couple of screenshots from the official website of the State Migration Service, but they were not useful, the border guards did not have any questions.
How to get to Baku?
By plane. The easiest and fastest way to get to Baku. Aeroflot (from Sheremetyevo), S7 (from Domodedovo), Utair (from Vnukovo) and Azerbaijan Airlines - AZAL (Azerbaijan Airlines; from Domodedovo, Vnukovo) operate flights from Moscow to the capital of Azerbaijan. The flight duration is about 2.5 hours. An Azerbaijani carrier flies from St. Petersburg, Mineralnye Vody and Kazan.
Minimum cost of air tickets Moscow ↔ Baku and St. Petersburg ↔ Baku
Moscow - Baku - MoscowSt. Petersburg - Baku - St. Petersburg
By train. Every Saturday, train 055Ч Moscow - Baku departs from Kursky Station in Moscow to Baku; travel time is 2 days and 5 hours. You can get from Rostov-on-Don by direct train Rostov-on-Don - Baku 392C or passing Kharkov - Baku 390O. Travel time is 1 day 9 hours and 1 day 8 hours respectively.
By bus. There are no direct official bus routes between Moscow and Baku. But you can get there with a transfer in Stavropol (Moscow - Stavropol, Stavropol - Baku).
Baku Airport. How to get to the city center?
Baku International Airport named after Heydar Aliyev is located 25 km east of Baku and is connected to the city by a modern highway. All international flights arrive at the new modern terminal, opened in 2013. The airport does not serve many flights, so customs procedures upon arrival will not take much time. Free Wi-Fi is available at the airport. Smoking rooms were in the departure area, but disappeared in 2017.
Upon arrival, at the Baku airport after leaving the clear zone, there is an exchanger where you can buy manats, but the rate, not surprisingly, is not very good. Here you will also find at least 2 ATMs. On my last trip in April 2017, one did not work, and the second took a commission - 1 manat; in 2016 there was none.
There are two ways to get from Baku airport to the city center: by taxi and by bus.
By taxi. When leaving the arrivals area, they will immediately come up to you and offer you a taxi into the city; these are the most cunning taxi drivers, since according to the rules they are prohibited from entering the terminal. If you refuse, you go out into the street, and there are already many more of them here, and everyone considers it their duty to come up and offer their services. Reviews about taxis from Baku airport to the city, and in general about taxi drivers in Baku, are not very good and boil down to the fact that each of them is trying to scam tourists out of as much money as possible. Therefore, if you are planning to take a taxi from the airport, then go to the KiwiTaxi.ru website and check out the prices for the official transfer, and upon arrival you can already bargain with taxi drivers based on a certain amount. Or more simply, book a taxi in advance online, and the driver will meet you at the exit from the arrivals area with a nameplate and take you to the place indicated on your voucher.
Upon arrival at Baku airport, you can also order a taxi via the Internet (Wi-Fi available) Uber. To use this service, you need to download the Uber application to your smartphone (if it is not installed, of course) on Google Play for Android or in iTunes for Apple devices, install and register by linking a bank card to your account. Currently, the cost of an Uber ride from Baku airport to the 28 May metro station (express route, which is discussed below) is 15 manats, according to calculations on the official website.
By bus. The bus from Baku Airport to the city center (route H1) departs every 30 minutes during the daytime, and every hour at night from the stop opposite the exit from the international terminal (on the left, before reaching the parking lot) and follows with one stop at the Koroglu metro station (Azerbaijan). Koroğlu) to the metro station 28 May (Azerbaijani: 28 May), which is located near the Baku railway station. Starting from 2017, the bus from the 28 May station towards the airport does not have a clear schedule - it arrives, drops off, picks up and goes back.
BakiKART machine and bus schedule from Baku airport to the city
How to pay for travel. To travel by bus, you should purchase a BakiKART from a specialized machine (plastic card, price: 2.00 manat) or BakiKART for temporary use (paper card, price: 0.20 manat) and immediately top it up with the cost of the shuttle fare - 1.30 manat. Vending machines are located to the right and left of the airport exit. The maximum bill they accept when purchasing 1 temporary card with a trip from the airport to the city worth 1.5 manats is 5 manats, change is given in coins. You can top up your temporary card for 2 trips at once (round trip), thereby saving 20 qepiks.
Where to stay in Baku?
Today we received an email from Booking.com with a personal referral link. When booking using it, both you and I will receive a bonus of 1000₽. The promotion itself is only valid for 10 bookings, so hurry up and take advantage. Well, here's the link itself: https://www.booking.com/s/35_6/d5f6d311. If reservations are still available, you will see at the bottom of the screen:
The best option for a tourist is, of course, an inexpensive hotel in the center of Baku near the seaside boulevard, one might say this is a dream, because there are quite a few budget options with such a location and they are quickly snapped up. I was lucky, I got it on Booking.com three-star hotel The Empire Hotel, located almost immediately behind the local parliament building, and offering a significant discount on accommodation. Before booking, I checked the cost of staying at this hotel through the price comparison service RoomGuru.ru and made sure that Booking.com offers the best option. 4 nights of accommodation cost 140 manats. The Empire Hotel is not a wow hotel, despite its name, and three rubles is below average, but the location is good.
Another thing I want to say about choosing a hotel in Baku, if there are 2 approximately identical hotels in quality and cost and one is located near or inside Icheri Sheher (Old, Inner City), and the second is in the parliament area, choose the first one.
The further the hotel is located from the boulevard, the price-quality ratio is noticeably higher, if you do not take the distance into account. And, if there is a bus stop near such a hotel that goes to the center, or a metro station, then you can safely book a room there.
Didn't find a suitable hotel? Look at apartments on the Airbnb service, there are quite a lot of interesting offers in Baku. And if you don’t have an Airbnb account yet, then register using the link www.airbnb.ru/c/226361. This will bring both you and me 1500₽.
Transport in the city
Public transport in Baku:
- The metro is very similar to the Moscow one. To pay, use BakiKART, the fare is 0.20 manat;
- BakuBus buses, new and modern, ply around the city. To pay, use BakiKART, the fare is 0.20 manat. Route maps and detailed information are available at official website;
- old buses that connect the capital with the suburbs. We are ready to pick up a voting passenger on any part of the route, payment in cash to a specially trained person. Detailed information on routes on the website (site is currently unavailable);
- Taxi. They are everywhere, you won’t go missing, but they really like to make money from tourists. I recommend using Uber wherever possible.
Uber tariffs in Baku
Where to eat tasty and inexpensive in Baku
I can admit right away that I didn’t visit many places and didn’t look for local flavor. The task was to find a cafe in the center where the waiters speak Russian, there is a Russian menu, and, of course, it’s tasty and not very expensive.
The first place I was advised to go to was Cafe Eriste(Gazanfar Alizadeh Street, 6/8) was located in the basement near the old city and Fountain Square. It’s immediately obvious that the cafe is for locals, the food is tasty and inexpensive, the waiter speaks Russian, but the small room and the lack of a menu in Russian predetermined my choice not in his favor, although it may have been influenced by fatigue or something else.
The next day after a walk around the city I went to cafe Araz, which was recommended on the Vinsky forum. This establishment is located on Fountain Square. If you are facing KFC, then to the right is the City Fountain cafe, and even further to the right is Araz. Most of the waiters speak Russian, the menu is in Azerbaijani, Russian and English, a large selection of dishes for every taste, in good weather they set up tables outside, there is Wi-Fi, the hall is divided into smoking and non-smoking, they work around the clock, payment by card is possible. I chose this cafe.
If you compare the prices in these two establishments, the difference is minimal; in Araz it is about 1 manat more expensive, plus they charge 60 qepiks (kopecks) for bread, which you can immediately refuse and it will not be brought or included in the bill. In terms of food, it’s delicious both there and there. In terms of atmosphere and surroundings, Araz noticeably wins, since the room itself is not a basement and is larger in area, plus most of the visitors at the neighboring tables speak our language, you can pay by card.
If you want to eat and at the same time enjoy an amazing bird's eye view of the “city of lights”, visit Telequlle restaurant, located in the television tower room. The very platform on which this establishment is located rotates, so during the meal the entire city will float in front of you. The minimum check amount per person is 30 manat. Unfortunately, I was not here myself, as I learned about it after my trip. I would be very glad to hear feedback from those who visited this restaurant.
Where to drink beer in Baku?
The local most popular beer, Xirdalan (Khirdalan), is brewed at the Baltika - Baku plant near the capital. You can try it in all cafes, it costs 1.5 - 3 manats.
Several Irish pubs line the side streets near Fountain Square. Imported beer is poured here: Efes, Krombacher, Blanche de Bruxelles and others at 7 - 8 manats per half-liter mug, and bottled Magners is also available (0.33). Unfortunately, after the devaluation of the manat, Guinness and Kilkenny disappeared from taps.
From these establishments I chose the oldest pub in Baku - Finnegan's Pub(Abdulkerim Alizade, 8). The main role in choosing this pub for spending time in the evening was played by the waiter Orkhan, who was excellent at maintaining a conversation, but the bartenders did not lag behind - there was never a dull moment. If you prefer to drink a foamy drink at the counter, then here it is comfortable, wide and long - there is room. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, Finnegan’s Pub hosts live music concerts, and on Thursdays until 22.00, I’ll tell you a little secret, all drinks are 4 manats.
Another place that cannot be ignored when discussing beer in Baku is Brewery Restaurant(Istiglaliyet street, 27). Finding it is quite simple, exit the Icheri Sheher metro station, cross the street along the underground passage, go left and a little down the street. You will see it in 20-30 meters. The Brewery constantly has 3 types of beer on tap, which are brewed here, these are Light - Light (Helles), Red - Medium (Marzen) and Dark - Dark (Bavarian G`Mischt), sometimes they also brew a seasonal variety, but... Due to poor pouring (absence from the menu), this beer stagnates and turns sour, so they plan to abandon this idea. I liked the first two varieties, especially Light, it goes great after a long walk, the offered dark one is not my thing. The cost of a glass of beer is 4 manats. But, if you come on Sunday from 17.00 to 20.00, then every second mug will be free. The staff of the establishment - the waiters, the bartender, the cook - are very friendly - they will treat you, tell you, show you, as they say. Food in a restaurant is much more expensive than in the cafes mentioned above.
What to see in Baku and the surrounding area
Sights of Baku
There is enough information on the Internet about the sights of the capital of Azerbaijan, so I will briefly outline the route and list the main ones.
Baku seaside boulevard- an embankment with a length of about 6 km, if you count from the White House to the Aquatics Palace, although Wikipedia talks about some mythical 16 - 25 km.
Primorsky Boulevard in Baku. View from the observation deck.
Having reached Primorsky Boulevard Carpet Museum, you can cross Neftyanikov Avenue and take the funicular (travel is free) or walk up the stairs to the hill - Nagorny Park, where there is an excellent observation deck, Alley of Shahids and Flame Towers. By the way, you can book a room in five-star Fairmont Baku hotel, located in one of the three Flame Towers. The observation deck offers a wonderful view of the whole of Baku, including the old city, seaside boulevard and Area of the national flag(speaking of the square, you cannot go up to the flag itself; there is a guard on duty on each of the stairs).
Alley of Martyrs or the Alley of Honorary Burials - most of those who died during the tragic events of “Black January” of 1990 are buried here, when on the night of January 19-20 the Soviet army was brought into the city to suppress protests by the political opposition.
Let's go down to Icheri Sheher(Old, inner city), we go inside and see a small square where a monument to the poet Vahid is erected. We move to the right along the fortress wall and find ourselves right next to the house, where was The Diamond Arm filmed in Baku, or rather the famous episode “damn it” (Kichik-Gala str., 8/1, Icheri-Sheher).
The place where an episode of the film “The Diamond Arm” was filmed in Baku.
We continue our walk along the wall and at the moment when the route should close we go to the palace of the Shirvanshahs. Ticket price is 4 manats for adults and 20 qepiks for children.
After visiting the palace complex, it's time to go inside the old city and wander through its narrow streets.
Icheri Sheher - Old City of Baku
If you move up to the right from the Icheri-Sheher metro station, you will come to Fountain areas.
Another one of the main attractions of Baku is Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center, designed by the famous architect Zaha Hadid. You can see this unusual structure on the very first day of your stay in Baku, if you travel from the airport to the city center by bus.
Ateshgah temple of fire worshipers
The Ateshgah temple complex is located in the village of Surakhani, which is only 10 km from the Baku metro station Korogly. The temple was originally built on this site because it was here that fire burst out of the ground, which was associated with the natural release of natural gas. At the moment, Ateshgah is an architectural complex in the shape of a hexagon with a jagged outer wall and an entrance portal. In the center of the courtyard stands a quadrangular altar, which was a place of pilgrimage for fire worshipers. Here and now, fire bursts out of the ground, but thanks to specially supplied gas. The word “Ateshgah” means “House of Fire”, “Place of Fire”. The Temple of Fire Worshipers in the village of Surakhany is a State Historical and Architectural Reserve.
Quadrangular high altar and place of sacrifice from the 18th century
This place did not make any impression on me, perhaps due to the large number of tourists and museum workers who constantly follow you. The complex has been completely restored and therefore looks like a new building. In the cells located in the wall, mannequins are placed (as in the museum in Gobustan), depicting various actions from the life of the local inhabitants, from which one can understand what this or that room was intended for.
How to get to the temple of fire worshipers Ateshgah from Baku. On the Internet it is recommended to go to Surakhani from the Nariman Narimanov metro station by bus 184. A website containing information about bus routes in Baku,(unfortunately, does not work now) confirms this information. But I was unlucky, maybe there were some repair work that day or some other reasons, but this bus did not go from the indicated metro station. The employee in charge of public transport sent me to look for this route to the Udluz station. But I decided to go straight to the metro station Koroğlu (Koroğlu) and I was right. Bus number 184 stops under the first bridge towards the airport. In 2017, the bus stops in the Korogly metro area were finally put in order. Now the boarding point for each bus is known not only to locals, but also to tourists, thanks to information stands and markings on the asphalt. The bus we need, 184, leaves from platform No. 2.
Travel time to the temple of fire worshipers Ateshgah is about 25 minutes, the fare is 20 qepik. From the bus terminus you need to cross the railway and turn left. So, if you need to get to the Ateshgah Temple, I recommend taking bus 184 from the Korogly metro station.
Rock paintings and mud volcanoes in Gobustan
Gobustan is a village and reserve of the same name 60 km south of Baku. Here, 13 km from each other, there are 2 attractions: the petroglyph museum, consisting of two objects: the museum building and the rocks themselves, on which you can see the drawings of ancient people, and mud volcanoes. He described these places in detail, and also told how to get to Gobustan from the capital, in a separate article - Gobustan Nature Reserve in Azerbaijan.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I would like to say that Baku is a great city, with nice people and interesting places, in which it is worth spending at least a few days. You will not regret it! I hope my personal experience of visiting the capital of Azerbaijan, described here, will help you in preparing your trip.
If you notice any inaccuracies or just want to supplement the material, welcome to the comments!
Have fun with your travels and unforgettable experiences!
Baku is the capital of Azerbaijan. Those who come here will definitely be delighted with this city. Shiny modern high-rise buildings are mixed with old five-story buildings from the Soviet era. Baku is a city where you want to walk, it is very beautiful, both during the day and at night, when the buildings are illuminated. There is an embankment along the shore of the Caspian Sea where you can stroll. The old part of the city is worth a visit. Narrow streets, by the way, this is where certain moments of the film “The Diamond Arm” were filmed. The city of Baku is filled with a large number of interesting and beautiful places, and I will tell you about them in more detail.
What is worth seeing in Baku.
1. Palace of the Shirvanshahs
This palace is located in the Old Town and occupies the highest point. This is not a separate building, but a whole complex consisting of a mosque, a tomb, a tomb, a reservoir, a bathhouse, and in the palace itself there are as many as 52 rooms. The Palace of the Shirvanshahs is the heart of the Old City; unfortunately, today it no longer has the luxury it had in the 15th century, but despite this, it is still valued for its atmosphere and unique appearance. Entrance ticket inside will cost 2 manats. The doors of the palace are open to visitors from Tuesday to Sunday from 10-00 to 18-00
2. Baku TV Tower
This tower takes an honorable 34th place among the tallest television towers. At the very top there is an observation deck from where you can admire wonderful Baku. And at a height of 175 meters there is one of the most expensive restaurants in Baku. It’s definitely worth a visit once, the food here is amazingly delicious, the service in the restaurant is beyond praise and, of course, the main feature is the panoramic view of the city.
3. Towers of Fire
The towers are amazingly beautiful and can be seen from almost anywhere in Baku. Of course, they are especially noticeable after dark. They are illuminated in the colors of the Azerbaijani flag, sometimes they glow only orange - and resemble a real fire. The Towers of Fire began to be built in 2007 and were planned to be completed by Eurovision, but for some reason they did not have time. Today, one tower houses a five-star hotel, and the other recently opened a huge cinema with an IMAX screen.
4. Maiden's Tower
This famous landmark can easily be called the main symbol of Baku. The time of construction is approximately the 12th century. During the Russian Empire, it served as a lighthouse, but with the advent of the revolution, it was no longer used for any purposes. Today it is the observation deck of the city. The name of this tower is associated with a sad legend about a girl. Her father wanted to marry her to someone he didn’t love, but she asked to build a tower before the wedding. When everything was ready and the wedding was about to take place, the girl could not stand it and jumped down from the very top of this very tower. This is a sad story connected with the Maiden Tower. I don't know if this is true or fiction. But even local residents believe that everything was exactly like that. Entrance to the tower costs 2 manats. It is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10-00 to 18-00.
5. Azerbaijan Opera and Ballet Theater
A very beautiful building in the Art Nouveau style, it was built exactly like the Dal Verme theater in Milan. It first opened its doors to the first visitors in 1911. There is also a legend around him, and of course about love. A young man from a very rich family fell in love with a singer who came to his city on tour. At that time, there was not a single musical theater in Baku where musicians and singers could perform. Therefore, all concerts took place in the circus arena or in a casino, which of course the artists did not like. During her interview, that same singer said that she would not come to Baku again, since there was absolutely nowhere to perform here. After these words, the young man promised to build such a building, after which he invited that singer to tour again to a completely new and beautiful opera and ballet theater. How their relationship ended and whether it was, alas, no one knows.
6. Gobustan Nature Reserve
A very beautiful and unique place. Rock paintings have been preserved here since the primitive era, these are all kinds of images of animals and people, there are even ancient inscriptions. All these creations are protected by UNESCO cultural heritage. In addition, the Gobustan Nature Reserve is also famous for its mud volcanoes. They are completely different in size, some are even very tiny. The mud that comes out is oil mixed with water.
7. Icherisheher (Old City)
This is the only part of the city of Baku where you can see what eastern medieval architecture was like. There is no need to pay anything for entry. The most amazing and incredible thing is that people still live inside the old city. Walking along the narrow streets, you can see hanging laundry and small grocery stores. But somehow it’s already empty and deserted. But here there is a real atmosphere of the East. On the territory of the Old City there are mosques, small residential buildings, and the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. Be sure to get to the place where the scene from the film The Diamond Arm was filmed, when Semyon Gorbunkov slips and allegedly breaks his arm. Most Russian tourists love to come here and take photographs at this place.
8. Baku Boulevard
The length of Baku Boulevard is a little more than 5 kilometers. At its core, this is an ordinary city embankment that stretches along the shore of the Caspian Sea. It started near the Government House. Baku Boulevard is a favorite place for local residents, especially in the summer in the evening, when a pleasant cool breeze blows from the sea. There are flower beds everywhere and benches where you can sit and relax. Along the boulevard there are many interesting buildings (Carpet Museum, Puppet Theater, 75-meter parachute tower), restaurants, and a large entertainment shopping complex called Park Boulevard.
9. Baku funicular
The price per trip is about 0.2 manats. The attraction is open from 10-00 to 22-00. The year of construction was 1960, but only thanks to the Eurovision Song Contest, which took place in 2012, the funicular was completely restored. The trip will take about 5 minutes, but during this time you will be able to admire the views of the Caspian Sea and the city of Baku.
How to spend time in Baku and what to see in the city and its surroundings in 1, 2, 3 or more days? Our advice, reviews from tourists, descriptions of attractions, photos, prices for entrance tickets. Attractions on the map of Baku.
We spent only one day in Baku (we had a transfer there on the way to) in February 2017, but the city completely captivated us with its extraordinary cleanliness and neatness, the harmonious combination of ancient architecture and sparkling new buildings, narrow streets and the scope of its avenues and boulevards. Before the trip, of course, we compiled a list of attractions that need to be seen in Baku and the surrounding area, which we are sharing with you.
Where will you rest?
Baku attractions map
What to see in Baku in 1 day? Personal experience
If you only have 1 day to visit Baku, as we did, then don’t waste time and go straight to the center. Take the very front seats and enjoy the views. The trip is an attraction in itself: the driving style in Azerbaijan, as indeed everywhere in the Caucasus, is expressive. You will hear many wonderful words from the driver in relation to road users, especially in traffic jams. We recommend starting your acquaintance with Baku with Primorsky Boulevard and then go to Old city(Icheri Sheher).
(Photo © site)
It took us about 4-5 hours to explore the Old Town in detail, wandering through the labyrinth of streets, looking into entrances, admiring the overhanging balconies and interesting doors. In the Old Town, we decided not to specifically look for sights, but to give in to chance and just walk the streets. The attractions were in themselves: mosques, interestingly decorated artists’ shops, baths. In general, the Old City of Baku is worth seeing:
- Maiden Tower (8 manats);
- Kichik-Gala street, 8 (Kicik Qala, but on Google it is listed as Boyuk Qala), where the famous scene from “The Diamond Arm” was filmed;
- Palace of the Shirvanshahs (4 manats);
- the Mohammed Mosque is the oldest building (1078);
- Shemakha Gate and Icheri Sheher Fortress.
Video walk around Baku
We didn’t go into the tower and the palace, since we didn’t have much time left, and we read in the reviews of tourists that there was nothing remarkable there. Except that from the Maiden Tower there is an interesting view of the city and the Flame Towers. By the way, if you suddenly can’t find something in the Old Town, don’t be afraid to contact the locals, almost everyone speaks Russian perfectly (at least older people).
After the Old Town we walked to the funicular, which takes you to Nagorny Park(from there you can see the city), the alley of martyrs, mosques and Flame Towers. The funicular was closed because Monday was a day off. However, you can also climb the stairs on the left. Are you tired after walking around Icheri Sheher? It is quite possible to postpone your visit to the park and towers to the second day.
If you are wondering what you can see in Baku in winter, then don’t worry - it’s the same as in summer! True, there may be various vagaries of the weather, but no one is immune from this. For example, we flew to Baku in February 2017, and the Baku residents said that we were lucky with the weather, because the city was sunny. The temperature was +5...+10°C, and all the snow had melted. Locals advised to come in the spring, when the vibrant Nauruz holiday takes place.
(Photo © site)
What to see in Baku in 2 days?
What other attractions can you see in Baku? You can start the second day by visiting a beautiful Tezepir mosque with golden domes. Then you can go to museums, for example, visit the Museum of Miniature Books, Carpet Museum(carpets are national pride) and Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center- its smooth lines, perhaps, do not leave anyone indifferent. Do not deny yourself the pleasure of strolling through the streets of the new city and admiring the architecture - it reminded us of St. Petersburg and Paris at the same time.
After dark, it’s worth taking a walk along Primorsky Boulevard (note the fountains) and see night city. According to tourists, Baku is illuminated wonderfully; some even think that it is more beautiful in the evening than during the day. Unfortunately, we didn’t catch the illumination, as we were flying to Istanbul before sunset.
If you decide to stay in Baku for more than one daylight hours, we recommend booking a hotel. You can find a convenient accommodation option for yourself on the well-known service Roomguru.ru - the site compares prices of a variety of booking systems and finds the best one.
(Photo © site)
What to see in Baku on day 3?
It is better to devote the third day to the outskirts of Baku and see the archaeological reserve Qobustan, which is included in the UNESCO list - there you can see mud volcanoes, well-preserved numerous petroglyphs, ancient human sites and tombstones. Entrance - 2 manats, you can get there by bus 195 from stop 20. Sahә.
If you want to visit the mud volcanoes, it is better to take a taxi upon arrival in the village. The trip will take about 20 minutes, the cost is from 30 manats. The views are deserted and a little fantastic. It is also definitely worth going to the rock paintings (about 2 km from the petroglyph museum; the museum itself, as tourists write, is not very interesting).