Cyprus is an abandoned city. Abandoned city of Varosha (Northern Cyprus). From antiquity to the Middle Ages

Until the 70s of the twentieth century, Varosha was a resort town, where thousands of tourists came from all over Europe. Varosha hotels were so famous that the most luxurious rooms were booked by far-sighted Germans and British 15 years in advance. Due to the fact that there were more and more tourists, a huge number of hotels and entertainment centers, nightclubs, and bars were built in the city.

It was a cozy seaside place with beautiful hotels located along the coast, with clubs and churches, private villas and panel houses, with hospitals, kindergartens and schools, gas stations of the Greek oil monopolist of that time, Petrolina.

The new quarter of the city of Famagusta covered an area of ​​tens of square kilometers to the south, along the eastern coast of Cyprus.

Now this area looks depressing - an abandoned church overgrown with weeds and thistles, dilapidated villas and houses. The only living creatures living in Varosha are rodents, wild cats and seagulls. Sometimes, in the silence of abandoned streets, you can hear the footsteps of Turkish army soldiers and UN peacekeepers. Several kilometers of golden beaches remain unnecessary to anyone for about forty years.

A row of bank buildings, hotels, closed with padlocks, a frozen crane, neon signs that can hardly be seen through the weeds and cacti. Villas and houses that have been looted many times...

In 1974, a coup d'état took place in Cyprus, the purpose of which was to subjugate the island to the dictatorship of the “black” colonels, and after a short period of time Turkey annexed the territory. On August 15, 1974, the Turks occupied 37% of the island, including the city of Famagusta and its suburb of Varosha. From that moment on, the island was divided into two parts: Turkish and Greek. Shortly before the arrival of the Turkish army in Famagusta, all the Greeks of the Varosha suburb left their apartments to find refuge in the southern part of Cyprus, the USA and England. About 20 thousand residents, leaving their homes, were sure that they would definitely return home in a week, or at most a month. Forty years have passed since that time, and the indigenous people have not been able to return home.

The Turks living in Famagusta did not begin to populate Varosha, unlike most places on the island, where the abandoned houses of the Greeks were seized by migrants from Turkey (the local population nicknamed them Anatolian settlers). The orphaned village was surrounded by barbed wire, checkpoints and other barriers, as if the suburb was “frozen” in the same form in which the local Greeks left it in August 1974. In this form, the suburb has survived to this day - such an ominous evidence of the civil war that once divided friendly Cyprus into two unequal ethnic parts.

Years pass, and the Greek Cypriots still hope to return home, however, a compromise has not been found that would suit both sides. Varosha became a bargaining chip in relations between Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots. Varosha became a sad symbol of the division of the island - a “ghost” town.

Those who were able to climb through the barbed wire once erected by the Turks speak of laundry hanging on lines to dry, of dried food on plates left in the dining rooms of fashionable houses and villas, of an unimaginable amount of weeds on the orphaned streets of Varosha. Price tags in store windows installed in 1974.

Varosha was completely plundered. They carried everything that could be carried. First, the Turkish military took valuables and furniture to the mainland, then residents of nearby areas took everything that was not useful to the officers and soldiers of the occupying army.

The Turkish authorities were forced to declare the suburb a closed zone, although this did not save it from complete plunder.

However, there is an alternative solution to this conflict, which was provoked and organized by the British in order to prevent “Soviet” influence in the Middle East and in particular in Cyprus. Makarios was going to ask (or asked?) from the British that they remove their bases from the island, for which he paid with his life.

The “Turkish occupation” in fact is the deployment of troops of another NATO country to the island, where another territory is being formed that is independent of the government of Cyprus, and is even aggressive towards it. It is easier for the West to control strategically important territory if it is divided.

There was a city here, there was a resort... There is such a famous place in Northern Cyprus - Famagusta. Once upon a time there were the best beaches on the island, and real estate in the fashionable Varos area was the most expensive in Cyprus. But that was once upon a time. Now Varosha is a dead city, which ABSOLUTELY all residents have left and in which it is strictly forbidden for anyone to be. It is forbidden to even photograph the fence and what is visible through the fence, under threat of imprisonment!

Everything that exists at the moment is the result of the confrontation between greed and pride. And we are not talking about ancient times, but about the 20th century. First, a coup d'état took place in the country and the president was removed from power. Then another state brought its troops into part of its territory, annexing them and calling it a “peacekeeping operation.” At the time when someone was flying into space, there was a civil war on the island. Short but tragic. The result is divided cities, destroyed destinies, unrecognized territories and a “ghost town”...

Without exaggeration, it can be said that the beaches in Famagusta are the best in Cyprus, with fine sand and clear water. The ancient Greeks were the first to appreciate this, followed by the Assyrians, Egyptians, Persians, Romans, Venetians and, longest of all, the Ottomans, they knew a lot about pleasure...

Including beaches, the “tasty” island has always been the subject of claims by its closest neighbors - Greece and Turkey. This was also intensified within the island by the confrontation between two ethnic groups - Greek Cypriots and Turks, Orthodox and Muslims. However, ethnic differences did not prevent local residents from living peacefully side by side, growing olives together and building their own state. The small but proud country gained independence from Great Britain, which had considered Cyprus its colony since 1925, in 1960.

Given such nature and climate, it is logical that tourism has become the main sector of the Cypriot economy. Literally in a matter of years, the oldest port in the southeast of the island of Famagusta (Greek Ammochostos, Turkish Gazimagosa), stretching for 4 km along the shore of the bay of the same name, became a fashionable resort. It was especially famous for its modern, prestigious quarter on the coast - Varosha (Turkish: Maras). Besides nature, Famagusta had something else to surprise tourists with: the remains of ancient Salamis, the largest Hellenic city in Cyprus, a Venetian fortress, an Armenian monastery, and several Gothic churches. All this, together with the climate, sandy beaches and the Mediterranean Sea, was enough for Varosha to transform into the local Cote d'Azur.

This is what Famagusta looked like.

But that was more than 40 years ago... But what now? Are the surrounding ruins really that very prestigious resort?

Now it bears the name - the “dead city” of Famagusta... Although, in fact, Famagusta is by no means a dead city - tourists relax on the beach next to the demarcation fence and look at its suburb of Varosha, which was once a fashionable resort with a predominantly Greek population, and Nowadays, the “ghost town”, a clear evidence of the contrast and advantage of the “legal” Cyprus over the “illegal” one, is guarded by the Turkish army and is a restricted area.

In 1974, the Greek military attempted a coup d'état, resulting in the establishment of the dictatorship of the “black colonels” in Cyprus; this became a convenient reason for Turkey to send its troops to the island. The Turks claimed to have occupied about 30% of the island (this is exactly the ratio of Greeks and Turks that existed at that time). But in three days, Turkish troops occupied almost 40% of the territories, including Famagusta and Varosha.

One of the results of the division of the island into Turkish and Greek halves was the appearance of a “ghost town” on its map. Dozens of multi-storey hotels, sanatoriums, residential buildings and private villas were abandoned in an instant, surrounded by barbed wire and given over to looters and nature for many decades.

View of Varosha from the beach. You can still get here. There is a post under the two flags of Turkey and the unrecognized Republic of Northern Cyprus, where a sentry usually sits.

A ghost town, a dream town - Varosha has been like that for me for the last 4 years. Exactly from the moment I first went to Northern Cyprus and learned about its existence.

Amazingly, the majority, even those who went on holiday to Cyprus (the so-called Greek part of Cyprus), do not even imagine that the island of Cyprus is divided, in fact, by 2 completely different states - the Republic of Cyprus (Greek Cypriots) and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus Cyprus (Turkish Cypriots). They have one capital - the city of Nicosia, which is divided into 2 parts by a wall.

If you don’t go into too much detail (and anyone interested can study the history of the island and the events that took place there on the Internet), then an interethnic conflict occurred in Cyprus in the 70s of the 20th century, almost immediately after gaining independence from Britain. As a result, Türkiye sent its troops to the island and occupied part of it. This part has not yet been recognized by any country in the world, except Turkey itself, and Northern Cyprus is under appropriate sanctions. You can only fly there through Turkey. The Greeks may also have questions for you if they see the stamps in your passport - what the hell were you doing in unrecognized territory. So, during the conflict, tens of thousands of civilians had to literally flee from their homes to save themselves - both Turks and Greeks. They also fled from Varosha, a huge fashionable resort of that time.

They fled, leaving all their things, firstly, and there was no time to collect them (24 hours were given for packing), and hoped to return back in the very near future. But it turned out that after 40 years no one was able to return to their homes, and there was nothing left to take there. The UN, by its resolution, prohibits anyone from populating the Varosha area other than its residents; the Greeks and Turks also cannot agree with each other, because in fact the conflict has not yet been resolved, and no one wants to give in. If you come to the Northern part of Cyprus - to the city of Famagusta - then, in principle, without any problems you can drive along the fence separating Varosha and see these abandoned, dilapidated houses.

In Famagusta there is even an open beach, from which you can clearly see the gloomy picture - empty, steep and expensive hotels on the first line in the past. Seeing this for the first time, it takes your breath away, but not from delight, but from horror. Varosha remained as a monument to human misfortune, blood and death, as well as the ease of destruction of the beautiful and carefree.

First line of hotels. For this photo I almost received a slap from the military guards of Varosha.

Along the shore is Varosha, a closed area.

In general, entry there is closed to anyone except, accordingly, the Turkish military who guard it. In 2014, I also drove past the fence, briefly taking a few photos. In 2018, I went to Northern Cyprus again - no, not because of Varosha, but to see Cyprus this time in the summer. And imagine my surprise when I found out that in Varosha itself they opened a beach “for their own people.” Namely: since about May 2018, a beach has opened in Varosha, which you can easily access if you have a passport from Northern Cyprus or Turkey. My interest, once again, defeated my fear, and, of course, thanks to my Cypriot friends - we drove to Varosha. You need to take the road to the border of Greek Cyprus.

At the end of the road you will be greeted by smiling, cheerful military men, to whom you must give the ID of Northern Cyprus or Turkey, and in return receive a card with a number for the car. Next you need to follow the road to the beach past an endless string of abandoned houses, gas stations, and Greek churches. No one accompanies you along the way, but, as I understand, you still can’t stop there, and again, take photos secretly.

Parking near the beach.

The drive is about 10 minutes. Having reached the beach, you can be pleasantly surprised by the change in the landscape - no dullness for you - children and adults frolicking in the sea, others calmly sipping Turkish coffee in the only very pleasant cafe, snow-white sand and turquoise waves. The beach is not very large, but still it is an area that was previously closed for many years behind seven seals. Speak Russian, drink coffee, swim - no one will do anything to you.

Do you know that you can get to Turkey without leaving Cyprus? It's possible.
Today I will tell you how we visited the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, the city of Famagusta, and what happens to cities that people leave.

It is not difficult to enter the TRNC - you fill out a form at the border, a mark is placed on it (entry/exit), but no marks are placed in the passport.
And here we are in Famagusta.
Moreover, Greek Cypriots call this city Amokhostos, and Turkish Cypriots call it Magusa.
We pass the Victory Monument, depicting the struggle of the Turkish Cypriots of Famagusta over many years for their land.

Here I first learned that there was a railway in Cyprus.
The first locomotive is immortalized on a pedestal.

And now, my dears, we are at the Varosha quarter.
Let me make a reservation right away: you can’t take pictures here, so all the images presented below are drawings from memory.

This quarter of the city, surrounded by a fence and barbed wire, was a rich and developing resort 45 years ago.
All European bohemia reveled here. Along the shore there were dozens of the richest hotels and casinos.

But in July 1974, in response to a coup d'etat in Cyprus, when power passed to a pro-Greek military organization that advocated the annexation of Cyprus to Greece, Turkey sent regular troops to the island.

Having declared that this territory historically belonged to them, the Turks gave the Greek Cypriots a day to evict from their homes. You were allowed to take with you only what you could carry...

Judging by the clearly visible bullet holes, the “evacuation” was not at all peaceful.
Before the invasion, the Turks carried out air raids, using bombs kindly provided by the states, according to local residents.
It is said that several thousand Greek Cypriots died and disappeared during the invasion.

The quarter, after the “cleansing”, was plundered. Crosses from churches have been demolished.
Later, the area was surrounded by a fence.
Until now, the issue of the return of Greek Cypriots or the settlement of the territory by Turks has not been resolved. The Turks and Greeks insist on their terms.
According to a 1984 UN Security Council resolution, it is stated: “Attempts to settle any part of the Varosha quarter by anyone other than its residents are unacceptable.”

In general, all this gave me a heavy feeling.
I will never understand for sure: why a developed civilization cannot peacefully resolve all the contradictions and difficulties among those living on Earth?
Think at your leisure.
And for me, the main memory of Varosha now is this parking lot for a children’s school bus...

The land is overgrown, buildings are collapsing.

Soon, to the delight of the Turks, nothing will be visible from behind the fence.

By the way, this neighborhood does not prevent them from moving in right next to the road.
Personally, I couldn’t even sleep peacefully next to this place.

Our further route was supposed to somehow dispel the negativity of what we saw.
We're going to the sea.

What a beautiful house!
It turned out to be the cottage of the richest resident of Famagusta. Before the Turkish invasion.
And the barracks of the elite Turkish special forces after...

We are approaching the sea.

An abandoned hotel complex greets us with a positive picture of a partially destroyed wall from a direct hit from an aerial bomb.

There are posters like this everywhere.
Let me remind you that these are all sketches!

What's behind the fence...

We went to the shore.
This is a head blower, guys...
Vacationers-tourists and empty eye sockets-windows of abandoned hotels...

The sea and the beach here are of course simply magnificent...

It’s not for nothing that these places are called the “Golden Sands” of Famagusta.
The sand really gives off a golden color.

The water is disgustingly warm!

In the booth there is a border guard with a machine gun.
Flags of Turkey and TRNC.
Behind the fence is devastation...

In the other direction - everything is fine...
This Turkish 5-* hotel is operational.
Famous for having rested there varlamov.ru

Really curly...

I went to the pier. Barefoot.
I almost burned my legs completely on the cinnamon planks...

But the views from there are beautiful.

...

But still these empty hotels...

I couldn’t get my head around it.

Although, those who vacation here all the time apparently don’t worry anymore...

By the way, a big hello to the girls from St. Petersburg!

Ahead is the historical part of the city - the Famagusta fortress with its bastions and many temples.
But more on that another time...

See you in touch!

Ask me how you ended up in Cyprus? And what did I forget at the resort in December? As if by chance, fate brought it :) I was relaxing and found myself warm on an island in the Mediterranean Sea. Entry here is visa-free; Turkish Cypriots do not put stamps on their passports, only on a separate piece of paper. I didn’t go to Greek Cyprus, I don’t have a visa, and I only flew here for 3 days... But I visited Levkosha, where the border of the two parts of Cyprus lies, and walked around the no-man’s buffer zone. Better follow my movements online on Instagram, and there will be a long report in LiveJournal later..

Of course, there are a lot of observations and comparisons between Turkish Cyprus and Montenegro. But first of all, I’ll tell you about Famagusta, or rather about part of the city - the once famous resort of Varosha. Now it's a ghost town. My feeling from him was like this - “Did I end up in Chernobyl?” 4 km of coastline is an abandoned resort, caused by the 74 war between the Turks and Greek Cypriots. Now control belongs to the Turkish army and the UN.

Varosha is a quarter in the city of Famagutsa ( on the map). Before the Turkish invasion, it was a popular tourist destination, it was compared to Monte Carlo, and Hollywood stars came here to relax. And now there are dilapidated hotels, private apartments damaged by looters, abandoned cars in garages, etc.

We took a guide in a car to take us around the sights. I burned all the way :)

- How many brothels do you have? How much money can you buy a girl forever? Show me the brothels when we pass by.
- There are 39 of them. All the girls work with permits, everything here is civil and according to the law....

The first thing that interests me about the excursion is the dead city, the rest is secondary. I want to get behind the barbed wire
- This is unrealistic. Need permission. There is an army there.
- I don't care. There must be a passage.

She later admitted that I was the first person in her 12 years of experience in tourism to ask to be shown such strange places. I felt sorry for her even before the trip :) Then I admitted to her that we are emigrants from Montenegro, we also work in tourism, and began to discuss our common problems. She felt a little better, but when she took us to Varosha, she kept apologizing that she couldn’t park the car close, which would take us a long walk from Famagusta.

- Don’t you see? I'm NOT wearing heels. I knew where I was going, and it wouldn’t hurt to take a walk.
- Do not photograph military personnel with machine guns. You will be asked to delete the photo.
- OK- I answer. And I take out my iPhone again. Well, I don’t have a super device with a lens, no one will understand what I’m doing with the phone.

Just on that peninsula with a house there was a soldier walking with a machine gun, looking sideways in our direction.

In the 1970s, Famagusta was the main tourist center in Cyprus. Among the stars who visited him were Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, Raquel Welch and Brigitte Bardot.

There are truly stunning sandy beaches here. They somehow reminded me of Velika Plaza outside Ulcinj in Montenegro.

And now in Northern Cyprus there are military installations and a 50,000-strong army everywhere. The spectacle is strange, considering the 1.5 million influx of tourists per year, as in Montenegro. But we don’t have scary people in uniform in military vehicles.

I heard stories from locals about how people got married, flew away on their honeymoon, returned - and were no longer allowed home! Hotel owners were suddenly left without business...

When you are in the center of Famagusta, you see a lively city, cafes, tourists. As soon as you drive to the beach, the trash starts.

On August 15, 1974, the Turkish army invaded Famagusta. G The local residents of the prosperous resort of Varosha fled from the Turkish occupiers, leaving everything as it was: unwashed plates on the table, laundry hanging on the clothesline, cool cars in the garages. The town of 16 thousand people was deserted and numb, as if it never existed on the eastern coast of Cyprus.

Now it is a civil war monument. It is almost impossible to get behind the barbed wire. Local residents are allowed once a year to pick up personal belongings and look at housing.

When you walk along the sea to Varosha, you don’t meet many people on the streets.

It's funny how the Turks haven't removed the Greek inscriptions yet. Or maybe they left it specifically for rare individuals.

The military is waiting in these white skyscrapers. And in the distance you can see the blue Palm Beach Hotel, which operates as a casino and hotel.

We saw a lot of people leaving there. Maybe there was a conference, maybe they were leaving the casino... Behind its walls all life ends and 4 km of dead silence begins.

I can imagine the thoughts of vacationers splashing in this pool with a depressing panorama.

Although not everything is so sad here. There are even street cafes, and on the ground floor of that white building there is a gym. So, 100 meters from Varosha, life goes on as usual. After all, there are 40,000 students studying in Famagusta, they + the military have become a kind of substitute for tourists.

People also give birth to children, but they won’t be able to get married in a nearby Orthodox or Catholic church - they are abandoned.

According to UN Security Council Resolution 550, adopted in 1984: “Attempts to populate any part of the Varosha quarter by anyone other than its residents are unacceptable.” This is how it remains abandoned. The Turks have placed their and the Cypriot flags on the beach and are unlikely to go to peace with their Greek Cypriot neighbors, who also have part of the city of Famagusta.