What does surfing mean? Surfing: description, history and types. – Does a beginner surfer need special sports training?

The history of surfing is a storehouse of vast experience, a series of trials and errors that led surfing to the way we see and love it now. In our article you will find out where the history of surfing began, how it began and which people made a huge contribution to the development of our favorite sport.

History of surfing. Start

There are no records of the first surfers in the world, but it just so happens that the history of surfing began in the Pacific Ocean region. Some Peruvians claim that their first settlers were pioneers in riding ocean waves when returning from fishing expeditions some 4,000 years ago.
The theory about the origin of the Polynesians states that their migration began from the island of Sumatra in Indonesia, spread to Fiji, the Marquesas Islands, Tahiti, and finally reached Hawaii. There is no doubt that surfing was born during this exploration of the Pacific Islands.
The fact remains: Hawaii is the center of world surfing and the place where surfing history began. Hawaiians learned to ride the waves on wooden boards about 1,000 years ago. Both the royal family and their subjects enjoyed surfing. The Hawaiian Kings showed off their skills in surfing in order to strengthen their position on the throne. They used huge Olo surfboards, ranging from 18 to 25 feet (6-8 meters) in length, while commoners could only ride shorter surfboards called Alaia.

The discovery of surfing by Europeans

The history of surfing in Europe began only in 1779, when Lieutenant James King, who was part of Captain James Cook's last expedition, published excerpts from his diary with notes about how Hawaiians lived by the ocean and enjoyed the beach lifestyle.
As time passed, Europeans began to use Hawaii as a staging post for trade expeditions. In 1821, Calvinist missionaries arrived from Britain to spread their religion among the locals. They considered the way of life of the Hawaiians to be frivolous and banned surfing, thereby practically destroying the way of life of the Hawaiians. All this led to the fact that traditional Hawaiian culture almost disappeared from the face of the earth. If it weren't for a handful of native Hawaiians and a few curious tourists, such as Mark Twain, who described "bathing in the waves" in his 1872 book Light, the history of surfing might have ended then.

History of surfing in the 20th century

The revival of surfing culture began thanks to two individuals: George Freeth and Duke Kahanamoku. George Frith was a member of the Waikiki beach boys, whose members practiced surfing, which was then very rare. In 1907, Frith met the American writer Jack London in Honolulu. London became interested in surfing and wrote an article in a magazine that brought Frith fame on the American continent. George Frith moved to California, where he demonstrated his wave riding skills at Venice Beach and later at Redonodo Beach, where he was nicknamed "the man who can walk on water." George Frith was indeed the first to bring surfing to the US mainland, but his influence was not comparable to what Duke Kahanamoku did - he introduced surfing to the whole world.

Duke, like George Frith, was a member of the Waikiki beach boys. He broke various world swimming records in 1905, and from 1912 he represented the American swimming team at the Olympic Games, during which he earned numerous gold medals. Kahanamoku traveled extensively around the world and introduced surfing to Australia and New Zealand, as well as the east coast of the United States. In 1917, Duke rode the legendary big wave rising over a reef off the coast of Waikiki on the Hawaiian island of Oahu, using a 50-pound, 16-foot (almost 5-meter) mahogany board, traveling more than a mile and a half! One of Duke's companions was Californian surf pioneer Tom Blake. He became the first surfer to ride the waves of Malibu in 1926. In addition, Blake organized the first surfing competition on the Pacific coast of the United States, which he himself won, riding on a board he made with his own hands.

Early surfboards

Hawaiians rode on boards made from a single piece of wood of different species: pine, mahogany or balsa. These surfboards were very heavy, had no fins and were virtually uncontrollable in big waves, although this was not really necessary since in those days everyone rode the waves in a straight line. In the 1930s, Tom Blake helped develop a hollow board called the Cigar Box. The board was a hollow structure made of balsa, frames, dowels, waterproof glue and varnish. This type of board was lighter, more buoyant, but just as uncontrollable as its predecessors. Plus, all early surfboards had a tendency to slide off waves over 6 feet (1.8 meters).

In 1937, one of the local Hawaiian teenagers revised the design of the board, coming up with a V-shaped bottom in the tail area so that the surf would better stay on the wave wall. This design change led to surfers learning to make sharper turns. After World War II, Bob Simmons, Dale Velzy and Joe Quigg were at the forefront of the new surf design movement in California. These shapers were already making boards with a large fin and a fiberglass cover.

The first “official” surf spots and their pioneers

It is quite possible that surfing would not have become so popular in the mid-twentieth century if it were not for the first surfers who conquered the waves of Oahu, Hawaii. These people became an example of the “surfer” lifestyle, and it was with them that the history of surfing, close to the modern one, began. Adventures, surf trips and non-conformity were constant elements of their lives. This image of the surfer remains virtually unshakable to this day. The first surfers earned the title of legends of the sport by pushing the boundaries of what was considered impossible.

The first popular spot is Makaha

In the early 20th century, the main surfing area was the southern part of Oahu around Waikiki. As surfboards evolved, surfers like John Kelly, Wally Froiseth and Fran Heath began looking for more interesting waves. In 1937, they left Honolulu and set up camp in the Makaha Valley. When they woke up the next morning, they saw huge waves crashing on the reef. For information: the Makaha spot starts working when the size of the swell is more than 10 feet (3 meters), while waves with a height of 20 feet (about 6 meters) arise only a few times a year.

Surfing's history was interrupted by World War II as most surfers served in the war effort, but by the mid-1940s, surfers had returned to Makaha, including a new face, George Downing. Downing began to study the spot and its waves with almost the enthusiasm of a scientist. When a swell came, he made notes about the period between waves, the number of waves in a set, the pause between sets, how the swell rose and fell over a certain period of time. And when there was no swell, he swam with a mask and snorkel, exploring the bottom. In 1950, during a trip to California, Downing made a new board, 10 feet long and with a large fin, specifically for big waves. This board allowed me to start surfing the really big waves in Makaha.

In 1953, a local photographer photographed Downing, Brown and Buzzy Trent in 15-foot waves. It became a sensation on the US mainland after the pictures appeared in newspapers, Life magazines, National Geographic and other publications. Until this moment, no one had seen a wave of this size ever be conquered. This event led to the emergence of the first big wave surfers. A group of Hawaiian and Californian surfers then set up camp at Makaha, building huts and frame houses. The number of big wave surfers grew, but Downing remained the best of them. Wave explorers spent their time in the Makaha Valley surfing and fishing. But there was a problem - this spot worked quite rarely, so surfers had to explore other territories. Thus began the exploration of the northern coast of the island.

North Shore, northern coast

The first surfers of the modern world who surfed on the north coast of Oahu at the Sunset beach spot became known in 1943. In December of that year, two surfers, Woodie Brown and Dickie Cross, swam to the Sunset beach spot during a growing swell and found that they could not get ashore due to powerful foam and fast currents that suddenly generated intensified swell. They decided to swim 3 miles towards Waimea Bay, believing that conditions would be easier there. But Cross got into the inside game and disappeared forever into the abyss after the giant set arrived. After quite a bit of trouble, Brown still managed to get ashore. This story added to the collection of terrible incidents that occurred on the coast, already engulfed in an atmosphere of fear.

On November 7, 1957, Greg Noll and Mike Stange stood on the shore of Waimea Bay watching 12-15 foot waves. After a while, Noll said, “Fuck it, I’m paddling out.” Noll and Stange were immediately followed by Fred Van Dyke, Mickey Munoz and Pat Curren. Knoll caught the first wave that day, and his name will forever go down in history as the name of the first to surf Waimea Bay. From that day on, the North Shore became the epicenter of surfing, and Waimea its spiritual refuge.

World recognition

Until then, surfing was still part of the underground and there were very few surfers. The situation changed when, in the late 50s, the book Gidget hit the shelves of bookstores, and the film of the same name was released on cinema screens, from which the history of surfing moved into a different direction. “Gidget, the little girl with big ideas”
Gidget, The Little Girl With Big Ideas is a novel written by Frederick Kohner in 1957. He drew inspiration from watching his daughter Katie, who surfed and represented a strong representative of the Malibu surf culture of the time. Columbia Pictures acquired the film rights to the book and filmed it in 1959 in the Santa Monica area. Both the book and the film literally blew up the public. Cinemas were filled to capacity. The influence of the film and book cannot be underestimated, as it was Gidget who brought surfing out of the underground, turning it into a popular activity among thousands of young people who lived near the ocean coast. It is estimated that the number of surfers in California alone grew from 5,000 in 1956 to more than 100,000 in 1962.

The emergence of surfing in music also served as a catalyst for the popularization of surfing. The first compositions in this style appeared in surf films, but soon teams emerged that devoted all their time to this particular direction in music. The most notable examples of these are the Beach Boys, Jand and Dean, Dick Dale and the Del Tones.

Surfing's explosion in popularity has transformed it into a subculture and has also provided great opportunities to develop the commercial side of the sport. This is how a new direction in business arose - the surf industry. John Severson's magazine "The Surfer" first hit the magazine racks in 1960, board shapers began experimenting with new materials and shapes, drawing knowledge from ship hull manufacturing technologies. By the end of the 60s, boards became shorter, evolving from large long logs into 6-foot surfboards designed specifically for speed and maneuverability.
Short and light boards gave rise to a new, more aggressive style of riding, which has its roots in Australia. By the 70s, brands such as Billabong, Quiksilver and O’Neill appeared and quickly gained momentum. There is no doubt that Jack O'Neill played a big role in the development of surfing when he invented the wetsuit. With the advent of jetskis, surfers were able to do their favorite thing in cold waters.

Surfing competition

By the mid-70s, they took place in Australia, Brazil, the USA and South Africa. These unrelated competitions were grouped by the IPS in 1976 into what can be called the nascent stage of the ASP (The Association of Surfing Professionals). In the first year of the tour, Australian Peter Townend became the first world surfing champion. Shaun Tomson (South Africa), Wayne Bartholomew (Australia) and 4-time champion, the legendary Mark Richards (Australia), won titles in subsequent years. Thanks to these riders, surfing history entered a new era: by 1984, the tour expanded to 20 international events.

By the time the number of contests had grown to 60 contests per year, the ISP was reorganized into the ASP, which in turn introduced a two-round ranking system for athletes in 1992. In this system, there was a ranking that included the 44 best surfers in the world who entered the competition without qualifying. To identify new stars, a World Qualifying Series (WQS) competition was introduced, in which 16 candidates competed to get into the top 44.
Over time, the tour has changed slightly. Until this point, its stages were held in large cities in the middle of summer, mainly with the aim of attracting large numbers of spectators. But at this time of year, conditions at the surf spots left much to be desired. As a result, the fast-growing surf industry, with several brands sponsoring stages of the tour, insisted that the competition be held at the best surf spots on the planet. Global brands began organizing their events in more exotic locations, such as G-Land in Indonesia, J-Bay in Africa, Mundaka in Spain, Tavarua in Fiji, Teahupoo in Tahiti and Trestles in California. The time of the biggest swells and the highest quality waves was chosen for the events. In addition, a waiting period was introduced. Thus, the world's best surfers began to compete on the world's best waves.

In 1999, ASP appointed Wayne "Rabbit" Bartholomew as President of the association, a position he served for 10 years. During this time, Rabbit greatly changed the tour - he reworked the judging system, which at that time was based on the number of waves caught and maneuvers performed, and also moved the competition from “so-so” beaches to surf spots with the best waves. In addition to the above, he organized live streaming of videos from the competition, providing the global audience with the opportunity to watch the progress of the competition from almost anywhere in the world.

At the present time, a new history of surfing is being created by the actions of the WSL (until 2015, the ASP). Thanks to her, such world-class stars as John John Florence and Mick Fanning emerged, and the leading companies in the surf industry grew into multimillion-dollar megabrands.

– this type of water sport involves riding along a wave on a special board. Despite the fact that this is the most famous and popular type of active water recreation in the world, it is poorly represented in our country due to the lack of suitable places for skiing. However, some sports that originate from surfing, such as kite or windsurfing, are quite popular in our country.

There are several subtypes of surfing, and this is not counting similar sports that use various technical means, which allows you to ride where there are no suitable waves. And types of pure surfing differ, first of all, in the type of board used. We will talk about each of them further in the article, after the history of surfing.

In the meantime, you can navigate to other sections by clicking on one of the links below:

All about surfing - this section of the site presents all the materials we have collected about surfing.

Surf spots – there are not many places in the world that regularly have waves suitable for surfers. We have collected all these places in the corresponding section, which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with before going anywhere to catch waves.

Surfer's outfit - all about board types, additional equipment, brands and more.

Surfing History:

Most people believe that the birthplace of surfing is Hawaii. But this is a misconception. Surfing originated in Tahiti, many centuries ago. And Polynesians from Tahiti and other islands in the 4th century AD began to migrate to other territories, including Hawaii. But it is not surprising that people are mistaken about the birthplace of surfing, because it was in Hawaii that it was preserved and then popularized in our time.

Only members of the nobility and the royal family could practice surfing in Hawaii, and even women rode boards. And surfing was considered not just entertainment or active recreation for the nobility; in terms of the scope of the surfing tournaments, they can be compared with the Olympic Games in Greece or knightly tournaments in Europe.

The boards at that time were huge, from 3 to 7 meters, and weighed about 70 kilograms.

In the 19th century, surfing almost completely disappeared from its homeland of Tahiti and remained only in Hawaii. The reason for this was the colonization of the islands by white people, who declared surfing a forbidden activity, as they associated it with pagan rituals. In addition, the population of Hawaii has thinned out very much, so there were not many people who knew the art of surfing.

And all the credit for preserving this national sport of the islanders rests on the shoulders of the Hawaiian Princess Ka'iulani. She trained in England, where she demonstrated her ability to surf the waves of the English aristocracy. It was the end of the 19th century.

Then the main popularizer of surfing, albeit in Australia, was swimmer Duke Kahanamoku.

At the beginning of the 20th century, George Frith, who mastered the technique of lying down on a board, tried to ride the waves while standing. And he succeeded. He organized a surfing show, and his boards, used for standing surfing, were much shorter than the original Hawaiian ones.

And after these events, surfing in America is gaining popularity. In just 15 years, the new exotic sport gathered a lot of fans, many clubs and surfing schools were organized along the entire coast.

In 1930, a patent was received and the first commercial production of boards was established. After 7 years, fairly lightweight basalt boards appeared, and after World War II, plastics and composite materials began to be used.

By the middle of the 20th century, surfing ceased to be exotic; many young Americans became interested in it, and it was in the 50-60s that the era of wave riding on boards flourished. At the same time, surfing gained popularity in Europe. The modern era of surfing can be considered to have begun.

Today, several main types of board skating have become firmly established, and new sports have emerged that are in one way or another connected with sliding on a board on the surface of the water. Well, classic surfing still remains the most popular water extreme sport.

Types of surfing:

Nowadays surfing includes several subspecies, the main difference between which is the surfboard.

The main type of surfing remains standing on a board with fins, when the surfer independently catches a wave and glides along it. For this, boards of various lengths are used, from one and a half to three meters.

In addition, there are special boards with leg mounts that allow you to fly high into the air using the wave as a springboard, similar to a skate ramp.

Classic Hawaiian surfing also remains, when the athlete does not stand, but lies on the board. Only now they use not huge wooden boards, but fins and small soft surfboards.

Bodysurfing stands somewhat aside, when an athlete glides along the wave without any board, using only his body, fins and a glove, which allows him to lean on the water and raise his head.

Wakeboarding is also one of the main types of surfing. This sport is popular where there are no waves. A special boat passing by creates waves on the water up to 1 meter high, which is quite suitable for riding.

There are many sports that are a further development of surfing, such as windsurfing (riding a board with sails), kiting (the athlete moves using a kite), etc. But these are separate and completely independent sports, which you can read about in the appropriate sections.

Surfing spots:

Unfortunately, not many places on our planet are suitable for pure surfing and it is impossible to find a point on the globe where there are waves all year round. Therefore, you need to carefully choose a place for skiing, taking into account the time of year and the likelihood of waves. You can read about all this in the corresponding section on our website or in the article, but traditionally good places for surfing are considered to be surfing in Tahiti, the birthplace of this sport, and surfing in Bali. Special pools for surfers with wave generators are also being created.

360 is a trick in surfing when the surfer rotates on a wave around its axis 360 degrees.

Dumping wave (falling wave) is a wave that collapses not with its crest, but with its entire thickness. This wave is absolutely not suitable for surfing.

FCS (Fin Control System) is a fin mounting system developed by FCS. There are 2 types of fastening systems. FCS - fastening the fin with two bolts on the side. FCS II - snap-on fin attachment.

Futures is a one-bolt fin mounting system.

ISA (International Surfing Association) trains and certifies surfing coaches and judges and develops surfing as an Olympic sport. Holds annual World Championships for national teams.

Off the lip - a trick in surfing, a vertical top turn (turn on the crest of a wave) on a closing wave.

Off the lip trick performed by World Surfing Champion Mick Fanning

SAS (Surfers Against Sewage) - Surfers for Clean Water movement

WSL (World Surf League) - hosts the most prestigious surfing competitions in the world. To become the world surfing champion, you need to score the maximum number of points in 9 out of 11 events. The WSL will also organize a Qualification Series to select candidates for the Champions League.

A

Eisbach is a river surf spot in Munich, Germany. Thanks to a man-made embankment and the fast flow of the river, a wave appeared on the Eisbach River.

Alaia (English: alaia) is a solid wood surfboard without fins. Imitation of ancient Hawaiian surfboards.

Alley-oop (in English Alley-Oop) is the most difficult aerial trick in surfing, rotating in the air with a board 360 degrees around its axis counterclockwise.

B

Barrel - (translated from English “Barrel” means “barrel”) is a section of a wave when a space is formed inside the closing wave where a surfer can fit. A barrel can only be formed by sharp and fast waves.

Belly (in English belly) is a type of surfboard bottom shape. Convex bottom with soft angle.

Bigwave riding (in English big wave riding) - surfing on big waves.

Beach break (in English beach break) is a type of surf spot. A wave is formed due to a collision with an embankment on a sandy bottom.

Blank board (in English blank) is a surfboard blank from which the shaper makes boards. Rectangular blank made of PU or EPS foam and a stringer in the center.

Bodyboard (in English bodyboard) / boogieboard (old name) - a short surfboard, lying on your stomach and wearing fins.

Bodysurf (in English bodysurf) – literally surfing on a body, i.e. without a board and on the stomach. The bodysurfer uses only a small blade under the arm - hand plane.

Bonzer (in English bonzer) is a surfboard with five fins. Central large fin and 4 small ones. Often a special concave is made in the tail section. A rare type of board.

Board (in English board) is the abbreviated name for a surfboard.

Boardshorts (in English: boardshort or boardies) – shorts for surfing.

The bottom turn is a basic and important trick in surfing. Turning at the bottom of the wave allows you to return to the wave wall and gain speed for the next maneuver.

Log is an offensive name for planks of poor quality, usually long and thick. And also an offensive name for surfers who lie on their boards, do not move along the line-up and interfere with other surfers’ surfing.

Bro (in English bro or bra) is surfing slang, referring to another surfer. Abbreviation for the word: “brother”

Boogie board (in English boogie board) is the old name for bodyboard. See bodyboard.

Backdoor (in English backdoor) is a maneuver on a sharp trumpeting two-way wave. The surfer starts on one side of the peak, but rides not along the shoulder of the wave, but under the closing peak, passes through the pipe under the peak and rides out to the other side of the peak.

Backside (in English backside) is the side of movement of the surfer with his back to the wave.

IN

Wipeout (in English: wipe-out) - a surfer falling from the crest of a wave and further getting into a batch, washing.

Wax / wax (in English wax) is wax that is used to rub the top side of the board (deku) so as not to slip while surfing.

Wake surfing (in English wake surfing) is surfing behind a boat on a lake or river. There are two disciplines in wakesurfing: skim and surfing.

Wind waves are waves formed close to the shore by strong winds. Such waves are typical for sea surfing.

Windsurfing is a water sport, surfing on a board with a sail.

G

Gun (in English gun) is a type of surfboard. Long and narrow boards designed for surfing on big waves.

Hybrid is a type of surfboard with a hybrid shape that combines the properties of several boards, for example, a thick and long shortboard.

Hydrick / wetsuit (in English wetsuit) - a suit for surfing in cold water made of neoprene. It comes in different thicknesses and designs depending on the temperature of the water. More details on the website.

Water shoes are shoes made of neoprene and rubberized soles for surfing in cold water.

Hydrofoil is a surfboard with a hydrofoil.

The helmet is a form-fitting neoprene hood for surfing in cold water.

Glassy (English: glassy/glass on) – windless conditions when the water and waves are smooth, without chop.

Green room (in English green room) is a cavity inside a closing wave in which a surfer can ride. In this position, the surfer is in a tube, with a wave wall on one side and a lowered linden on the other.

Groom (in English grommet) is a young surfer, usually under 16 years old. Previously, this was also the name given to inexperienced surfers, beginners.

Grab (in English grab) - grabbing a board with your hand during a maneuver on a wave. Any surfing trick with a grab is considered more difficult than the classic version.

Goofy (in English goofy / goofy foot) is a surfer’s stance when the front foot is right.

D

Duckdive (in English: duck-dive) - diving through a wave with a board in your hands, sinking the nose of the surfboard with your hands and at the same time pressing on the tail with your foot. Visually similar to a duck's dive, that's where the name comes from.

Jetski / Jet - a jet ski that accelerates the surfer into big waves

Ding (in English ding) is a dent or hole in a surfboard.

The bottom (in English bottom) is the lower part of the surfboard.

Drop (in English drop) – start on a sharp wave.

Drop in / Drop in (in English: drop in) - start on a wave in front of a surfer with priority, who is already riding it. The most unforgivable act in surfing. If you dropped due to inattention, you must immediately leave the wave. Often priority surfers will shout or whistle at other surfers when riding a wave to avoid being accidentally dropped.

Dude (in English dude) is surfing slang, meaning “Dude”. This is how surfers often turn to each other.

Z

Embeds are an element of a surfboard where the fins are inserted.

Closing is a type of wave that closes the entire section as a whole, rather than gradually starting from a peak.

Kneading is the moment when a wave hits the surfer, and then spins uncontrollably under the wave, like in a washing machine.

Lull (in English lull) is a break between sets of waves.

The green wave is the wave before breaking that all surfers ride. It can be any color.

Impact zone (in English: impact zone) is the zone where waves fall and break. It is not recommended to be in the collapse zone.

AND

Inside (in English inside) is a place in the ocean below the line-up, closer to the shore. Small waves or foam from closed waves come there.

TO

A channel is a reverse current into the ocean. In surfing it is used to enter the line-up, because there are no waves in the channel or they are very small. May be dangerous. About this in the article.

Carving (in English carving) is a trick in surfing that involves sharp turns on a wave in the form of a snake.

Cutback (in English cutback) is a basic trick in surfing, when the surfer turns in the opposite direction to the ridge, turns around at the ridge and rides the wave again. Visually reminiscent of a figure eight, performed to return to the power zone.

Kasha – wave conditions when strong wind breaks the waves.

Quad (in English quad) – four fins on a surfboard.

Kelly Slater (English: Kelly Slater) is a legendary surfer, 11-time world surfing champion. Creator of the artificial Kelly's wave.

Kickflip (in English kick-flip) is a very difficult trick in surfing, when the surfer jumps and rotates the surfboard around its longitudinal axis.

Clean-up set – a set with the biggest waves – outs. Most surfers don't have time to paddle forward into the correct position and get washed away. The lineup becomes empty, “clean” of surfers.

Close out / Close out (in English close out) is a surfing wave that closes along its entire length. It has no obvious peak and is good for practicing quick take-offs.

Convex is the convex shape of the surfboard bottom. Often used on longboards.

Concave is the concave shape of the bottom or deck of a surfboard. Can be either single or double.

The critical section is the section of the wave next to the closing section. This part of the wave is the fastest, sharpest and most powerful.

Cross-onshore (in English cross-off) is the direction of the wind, which blows at 45 degrees along and onto the shore.

Cross-offshore (in English cross-on) is the direction of the wind, which blows at 45 degrees along and from the shore.

Cross-step (in English cross-step) is a trick in surfing on a longboard. The surfer moves back and forth on the board with cross steps.

Crossshore (in English cross-shore) is the direction of the wind that blows along the coast.

L

Lycra is durable and elastic surfwear made from lycra and elastane. This includes a long or short sleeve T-shirt or long sleeve swimsuit.

Lineup is a place in the ocean where surfers catch waves. This location may change at different times.

Dovetail (in English swallow tail) is a V-shaped tail of a surfboard.

The left wave is a wave for traveling to the left when looking at the shore.

Lip (in English lip) – the upper part of a surfing wave, the crest. The lip begins to close first.

A leash is a rubber cord that connects a surfer to his surfboard. It is attached to the ankle of the back leg, but longboarders fasten the leash under the knee so that it does not interfere with the cross-step.

Leash (in English leash) is a leash from a surfboard to the surfer’s leg.

Localism / locals - a phenomenon when local surfers are aggressive towards visitors, at some surf spots they are not allowed into the water or they kick out visitors, locals do not comply with priority rules, and can even beat or cut them. Different surf spots around the world have different levels of localism. Guides to surf spots usually indicate the level of localism. There is practically no localism in Bali.

Longboard (in English longboard) is a surfboard more than 8 feet long. Surfboards are quite wide and have a round nose. Longboards are often equipped with one central fin - a single fin. And longboarders wear it under the knee.

Longboarding (in English longboarding) is a type of surfing, riding on longboards. Longboard riding style: cross step, nose riding, headstands, fin forward riding, etc.

Layback is a trick in surfing when the surfer lies with his back on the wave, his feet remaining on the surfboard. Next, pushing off from the wave, he stands on the surfboard.

M

Malibu/Mal (in English malibu/mal) is a type of surfboard with a length from 8’ to 8’11”.

Mahito - surfing conditions in cold water, when the wave has small pieces of ice.

MiniMal (English: minimal) – mini-Malibu. type of surfboard from 7’ to 7’11”.

N

Kneeboarding (in English kneeboarding) is surfing on your knees on a special short board.

The sock is a soft knitted cover for a surfboard. Most often used for short boards.

Nose/nose (in English nose) – the front part of the surfboard.

A nose dive is a situation where, when raking into a wave, the nose of the surfboard loses water. Most often this results in falling forward.

Noseride (in English noseride) / noseriding - riding a longboard while standing on the nose. They often perform heng ten and heng five tricks.

ABOUT

Overhead (in English overhead) - waves that are taller than the height.

Onshore (in English onshore) is the direction of the wind that blows from the ocean to the shore. Such conditions are considered unfavorable for surfing, because... the wind breaks the waves prematurely.

A break wave is a type of wave from the shore into the ocean. Such a wave can be life-threatening. There are several reasons for its occurrence. For example, ocean waves can hit rocks on the shore and travel back into the ocean with great speed.

Offshore (in English offshore) is the direction of the wind that blows from the shore towards the ocean. Excellent conditions, the wind keeps the wave from breaking.

P

Deck (in English deck) is the upper part of the surfboard.

Pumping (in English pumping) is a basic trick in surfing that allows you to generate the speed of the surfer on the wave.

Party wave (English: party wave) is a situation where several surfers ride the same wave, but do not interfere with each other.

Power zone is a section of the wave that is optimal for maneuvers. This section will be different for surfers on different boards.

Foam is the collapsed part of a wave, literally foam. The first lessons for beginners are held on foam to train them to stand on the board and maintain balance while moving.

Foam or white water (in English white water) is a wave after a collapse. Suitable for teaching beginners how to stand on the board.

Expanded polystyrene (EPS expanded polystyrene) is a type of surfboard blank foam that is coated with epoxy resin. EPS/Epoxy boards are lighter and stiffer than other boards, but if a hole is made, the EPS will take on water. Great for weak, small waves and beginner surfers due to their larger displacement.

Peak – The highest part of the wave, this part breaks first.

Fin or fin (in English fin) is a removable, consumable part of the surfboard; fins are installed in the tail of the board for control on waves. There can be from 1 to 5 fins on the board, they come in different sizes and shapes.

Point break (in English point-break) is a type of wave formation when it begins to form when it encounters an obstacle, for example, a rock ridge or cape.

Polyurethane (in English PU = Polyurethane) is a type of surfboard blank foam material. Waterproof, heavy and soft material. More expensive to produce compared to EPS.

Polyester resin (in English PE) is a coating of a polyurethane blank (PU). Soft and heavy boards that better smooth out the vibrations of chop waves. Often polyurethane boards with polyester resin (PU/PE) are called polyester, hyperglass.

A flat wave is a wave without a sharp wall; it collapses gradually, without forming a barrel. Suitable for learning and longboarding.

Pop-up - jumping onto a surfboard.

The right wave is the wave to ride to the right when looking at the shore.

A bouncing wave is a type of wave that changes its size and wall sharpness several times in a short time. This phenomenon occurs due to the characteristics of the bottom topography or receding water from the shore.

Pad (in English pad) / mat - a foam mat, an alternative to wax to prevent feet from slipping. More often it is glued under the back leg, sometimes on the entire surfboard.

R

Rake - row in an attempt to catch a wave.

Swells – conditions when strong winds break up waves.

Roundhouse (in English roundhouse) is a trick in surfing, a refined or complicated version of the cutback. The surfer turns around, making a semicircle, rides in the opposite direction to the foam, pushes off from it and moves on. The trajectory of movement resembles a beautiful amplitude figure eight.

Regular - a surfer's stance with the left foot forward.

A sharp wave is a wave with an almost vertical wall, powerful and fast. Such a wave can form a pipe under certain wave conditions.

Rip current / rip / reverse current / channel (in English Rip / Riptide) - a strong current into the ocean. Surfers use it to get into the lineup. Can be dangerous for both swimmers and surfers.

Reef break (in English reef-break) is a type of wave formation due to a sharp difference in depth formed by a reef or rocks at the bottom.

The rodeo flip is the most difficult aerial trick in surfing, when the surfer, flying over the wave, spins in two planes: a backflip and a 180-degree spin, lands on the wave with his tails forward and then spins 90 degrees.

Rocker (in English rocker) is the longitudinal bend of the board, usually at the nose.

Fish / fish / fish (in English fish) is a small, wide and thick surfboard with a swallow tail.

Rail (in English rail) is part of the surfboard, its edges. There are soft (round edge) and hard (pointed edge) rails. There can be different types of rails on one board.

WITH

SUP (SUP, Stand up paddle) - an inflatable or rigid board for surfing or regular swimming, standing with a paddle.

SUP surfing (in English SUP surfing) – paddle surfing on a SUP board.

A swell is a group of waves formed as a result of a distant storm.

Switch (in English switch) - skating out of your stance.

A section is a part of a wave. There are the following wave sections: sole, lip, wall, shoulder, power zone.

Surfboard (in English surfboard) is a surfboard.

Surfer / surfer - a person who surfs.

Surfing means surfing.

Surf trip (in English surf trip) is a trip whose main purpose is surfing.

Surf shop is a store for surfers that sells surfing equipment and accessories.

Secret/secret spot (in English secret spot) is a secret surf spot that few people know about.

Single fin (in English single fin) is a surfboard with one large fin.

Snake is a maneuver in which one surfer swims around another in order to be in priority according to the rules of surfing. This technique is not encouraged.

Snap / Slash (in English Snap / slash) is a trick in surfing when the surfer suddenly changes his trajectory by 180 degrees at the very crest of the wave, creating a fan of spray behind him.

Soft top in English. (soft-top) - a training surfboard with a soft rubberized deck, reinforced tail and nose and soft fins.

Spot (in English spot) / surf spot - a place for surfing where the waves rise.

Wall (in English: wall / face) is the middle part of the wave between the sole and the lip; in this part the surfer performs most of the maneuvers.

Stick / Toothpick (in English Stick) is a slang name for short surfboards.

Stall (in English stall) is a way to reduce speed by crushing the tail.

Stringer (in English stringer) – strengthening a surfboard with a wooden strip in the center along the entire board. Typically, one to three stringers are used on a polyurethane and polyester resin board.

Standup paddle (in English SUP) - standing up on boards with a paddle.

Superman is an aerial trick in surfing when the surfer flies over the crest of a wave, takes the board by the rails in his hands, flies for a moment in this position like Superman, then puts his feet under the board again and lands.

The sushi roll is the most difficult aerial trick in surfing that combines the rodeo flip and superman tricks.

Set (in English set) is a group of waves that do not differ much from each other in size. Sets come with a certain frequency and of different sizes.

T

Tide chart (in English tide chart) is a graph of ebbs and flows. Shows the water level at a certain time and place.

Tandem is a type of surfing in which a couple performs acrobatic tricks on one board.

Twinfin (English: twinfin) – surfboards with two fins.

Turtle roll / turtle roll (in English turtle roll) / Eskimo roll - a technique for overcoming a crashing wave by turning over under the water together with the board, the foam passes from above along the bottom of the surfboard.

Topturn is a surfing trick where you turn the top section of a wave downward.

Tow-in (English: tow-in) is a type of surfing on big waves, in which the surfer is accelerated onto the wave on a jet ski.

Pipe (in English tube) is a section of a closing wave in which a niche is formed where a surfer can ride. Pipe surfing is a separate discipline.

Tube riding (in English: tube riding) – surfing in tubes.

Take-off (in English take off) – standing on a surfboard.

Tail (in English tail) is the tail of a surfboard.

Tailslide (in English tailslide) is a modern trick in surfing, when a surfer makes a transverse slide along the crest of a wave on the tail of a surfboard. The fins at this moment are above the ridge.

U

Clean up / get out - fall from the wave and get into a mess.

F

Funboard (in English funboard) - medium-sized surfboards from 6 to 8 feet.

Fiberglass (in English: fiberglass) is a fiberglass material that is used to cover surfboards to add rigidity.

Fin (in English fin) – translated from English – fin. Removable, consumable part of the surfboard, fins are installed in the tail of the board for control on waves. There can be from 1 to 5 fins on the board, they come in different sizes and shapes.

Fish (in English fish) is a type of surfboard, a short, wide and plump board with a forked tail for riding small waves.

Flintstone flip is the most difficult aerial trick in surfing, when the surfer, flying over the wave, does a backflip together with the board, holding it in his hands.

Floater (in English floater) is a trick in surfing when a surfer glides along the crest of a closing wave.

Freesurfer (in English freesurfer) is a professional surfer who does not take part in competitions, but rather acts in films, traveling around the world.

Frontside (in English frontside) is the side of the surfer’s movement facing the wave.

Fakie (in English fakie) - riding with the tail forward.

X

Tail / Tail (in English tail) – the back part of the surfboard.

Hand plain (in English handplain) is a wedge-shaped blade under the bodysurfer’s arm. On modern handplanes, they attach a leash to the hand and action cameras.

Hang ten (in English hang 10) is a trick in surfing when a longboarder rides a board with all the toes of both feet dangling on the nose of the surfboard..

Hang five (in English hang 5) is a trick in surfing when a longboarder rides a board with five toes hanging over the nose of the surfboard.

Hang heels (in English hang heels) is a trick in surfing when a longboarder rides on the nose of the surfboard backwards, with his heels dangling.

C

Zinc - sun protection for surfers, a thick, opaque cream in different colors.

H

Chop (English: Chop) – short, ragged, chaotic waves, unsuitable for surfing. The chaotic waves are caused by locally strong winds. Chop is typical on spots with wind waves, for example, on surf spots in St. Petersburg and Kaliningrad.

Sh

Shaka (in English shaka) is a hand greeting sign among surfers. The hand is in a fist, but the little finger and thumb protrude in different directions. Surfers also call this gesture hang loose.

Shape (in English shape) - translated from English, the shape of the board. It involves taking into account many characteristics: the shape of the nose, tail, rails, rocker degree, bottom profile - specially selected for a particular surfer or wave type.

Shorebreak is a wave unsuitable for surfing. They get up and quickly fall near the shore, hitting the bottom. Make it difficult for surfers to enter and exit the lineup.

Shortboard (in English shortboard) is a short and narrow surfboard, up to 6 feet long with a sharp nose. The shortboard is designed for sharp turns and departures from waves (air).

Shuvit (in English shove-it) is a complex aerial trick in surfing, when the surfer rotates his surfboard under his feet in the air.

Shaper (in English: shaper) is a master who creates the shape of a surfboard from a blank blank.

E

Air (in English air) is a trick in surfing when the surfer and his board fly over the ridge and land back on the surfboard. There are many variations of airs in surfing.

Air reverse is a trick in surfing when a surfer flies over a wave with a board, spins 270 degrees, lands on the wave tail first and turns the board another 90 degrees.

Epoxy / Epoxy resin (in English epoxy) is a resin that is used to coat blanks such as PU and EPS. More environmentally friendly compared to polyester resin. Epoxy coated boards are more rigid and durable.

Eskimo roll (in English eskimo-roll) is a technique for overcoming a crashing wave by turning over under the water together with the board, the foam passing from above along the bottom of the surfboard. Same as Turtle Roll.

Easy communication in the language of surfing and amplitude roundhouse!

Many people dreamed before going to bed in childhood, didn’t they? Some wanted to become an astronaut, a firefighter, a policeman. But I had slightly different dreams. I wanted to become a surfer. Always be on the crest of the wave, look like a model from a magazine. But I never thought about how it came about and what the word “surfing” means.

Surfing is a sport

Surfing is, first and foremost, a sport. Well, to be more precise, surfing is a sport that consists of sliding on the boardon the waves. Surfing originated quite a long time ago in Polynesia. The first to practice this sport were Hawaiians, who also practice it to this day. For them it was and is part of a special ritual.

The very first boards made by the Hawaiians were heavy and weighed 70 kg.

Total distinguish several types surfing:

A little more information about surfing

There are two versions of how the rest of the world learned about surfing: according to the first version, in 1767 when the ship is under command Samuel Wallis arrived in Tahiti. Another version says that it is the botanist Joseph Banks opened surfing to the rest of the world, arriving in Tahiti in 1796.

Even Mark Twain, visited Hawaii V 1866, wrote that he met a group of aborigines who were having fun with the national pastime, swimming in the surf.

The founder of the modern form of surfing is George Fit, who often liked to call himself that.

For many people, surfing has become not just a sport, but a part of life. If there was no surfing, modern hippies would not have appeared.

Many found their way thanks to the board and the waves. I always wanted to learn how to surf, but unfortunately... Russiathere is no such possibility. But if you also want to become a surfer, or you have another dream, then do not despair and achieve your goal, no matter what. I can only wish you good luck. And I hope that in the near future I will also be able to fulfill my dream.

The ancient Hawaiian sport called surfing was born about 1,000 years ago when men, women and even children enjoyed the dangerous and joyful experience of riding the waves. One of the first to describe this sport was Captain James Cook, who in 1777 saw one of the Hawaiians joyfully riding the waves.

Wave riding then ceased in the 19th century due to the arrival of missionaries who were against surfers' nearly naked bodies. The almost extinct entertainment was practically revived at the beginning of the 20th century by Alexander Lumfort, a traveler and devotee who was inspired by the idea of ​​attracting tourists to the islands by resurrecting surfing in Waikiki.

In 1812, the first legend of international surfing appeared. Coast boy and renowned Olympic swimming champion Duke Kahanamoku. The only athlete whose portrait is depicted on an American stamp. Traveling the world and showcasing his art, Duke Kahanamoku has become something of a John the Apple Corn among surfers. He infected almost all of America and Australia with his favorite sport.

One of those inspired by Duke was a young champion swimmer from Wisconsin named Tom Way. After moving to Hawaii, he became one of the most famous surfers of the 20th century. He improved the design of the board, and most importantly, became one of the promoters of surfing as a lifestyle. By 1948, surfing had become an integral part of life along the California coast. At that time, a skinny 10-year-old boy named Greg Noll found himself at the very center of the emerging subculture. Following in the footsteps of such pioneers as Pete Peterson and Lorrin Harrison, Knoll joined the ranks of extreme athletes who sought to create a whole new lifestyle for those with a free spirit.

legendary surfer Greg Noll

Conquering the waves gave rise to a completely new lifestyle, the center of which was the beaches. This new style was the complete opposite of mainstream values ​​and surfers were often considered beach bums.

For the first time in history, there were companies willing to give up basketball and football and say: “I don’t care about anything, I need surfing.” For the new generation, surfing was not just a favorite pastime, it changed their entire lives. It was not an easy sport, it was a life principle. Among the unbridled fun that reigned on the beaches from Windansea to Malibu, paraphernalia with Polynesian roots of surfing were especially revered: thatched huts, colorful Hawaiian shirts and playing the ukulele.

But one morning in the winter of 1953, another Hawaiian fashion exploded like a bomb on California's doorstep. The front page of local newspapers was full of photos showing three guys conquering a 9-meter wave. They were Buzzy Trent, George Downing, Wally Froiseth. The image came as a shock to California's fledgling surf culture and sparked a wave of migration from the server to the west coast of Hawaii and the beaches of Makaha and Oahu. The combination of clear, crystal clear warm water and huge, long waves created the first surfing paradise of huge waves.

Young Californians were trained by representatives of the first generation of big wave conquerors. Surfers such as Woody Brown, Wally Froiseth, George Downing and Buzzy Trent have been challenging the giant waves off the coast of Makaha for almost 10 years in a row. They were considered the astronauts of their time, as they conquered waves that were not subject to anyone. But it was 20-year-old George Downey who paved the way for subsequent generations to conquer waves of giants. Downey created the first board designed to conquer giant waves, and became one of the main researchers of the wave off the coast of Oahu.

15 miles from Makaha Beach was the north shore. A secluded 13km stretch of coastline with pineapple plantations and farms scattered behind it. The discovery of the North Shore for surfing was tantamount to Columbus discovering the New World. Nowhere in the world could truly huge waves be found close to the shore. If Paris can be considered the cradle of fashion, then the northern shore of Makaha is the cradle of surfing.

The guys spent 10 hours and did nothing but ride the waves until they lost their senses. In order to somehow survive due to the lack of money, the guys caught fish, lobsters and collected coconuts. At that time it was possible to live on pasture. They spent their days enjoying the sun and leading lives that did not conform to the style of gray flannel suits of the 50s. It was the culture of those days, only the guys were happier. They became pioneers not only in conquering giant waves, but also in surfing culture in general. They became, in a way, the founding fathers of the lifestyle under the slogan “Freedom and Ease.” It was not like the jazz that was sweeping Chicago and New York at the same time; here was a tiny epicenter with a couple dozen brave men and their companions ready to share their lives with them.

While all the surfers were conquering the fantastic waves of the north shore again and again, the biggest wave of all was eluding them. Thoughts about Waimea Bay began when the waves on the north shore were getting too big. But Waimea Bay was surrounded by legends and fears. Surfers in the '50s had fresh memories of the fate of the Dickie Cross surfer, a young surfer from California who was caught in the waters off Sunset Beach in December 1943 by a fast-forming storm. Unable to escape, he decided to swim 3 miles south into the less safe Waimea Bay. But a 15-meter wave blocked the entrance to the bay in order to swim to the shore. The surfer found himself captive of huge waves. The seventeen-year-old wave conqueror was never seen again. After this, the bay's reputation was steeped in superstitions and fears, as well as stories of haunted houses. But it was impossible to resist the temptation to conquer the waves. During the first rise, surfers stood on the shore, mesmerized by the sight of huge, ideally shaped waves that exploded the surface of the sea. Standing on the shore and watching the huge and deserted waves with his buddy Mike Stang, 19-year-old Greg Noll decided he had seen enough, unsheathed his board and walked towards the water. A few minutes later they were joined by Pat Curren, Micky Munoz, Del Cannon, Fred Van Dyke, Harry Church, Bing Copeland and Bob Bermel. They decided to do the impossible. By breaking the taboo, the guys discovered incredible surfing.

The following year, 1958, Waimea Bay became incredibly popular with big wave lovers. A new wave of migration of surfers wanting to ride the giants to the north coast of Hawaii has begun. The relatively easy surf on the Makaka coast in Waimea Bay featured huge 8-meter waves and often, in addition to experience, surfers needed incredible self-belief. Already in 1959, Waimea Bay became a center for big wave surfing. A generation of giant wave conquerors has emerged, whose names are now forever associated with the bay.

Despite the amazing feats of Greg Noll and other surfers, only a naive fifteen-year-old girl from California was able to join the surf team from Malibu, making surfing truly popular in America. After the movie "Gidget" was released in 1959, when there were less than 5 thousand surfers, in 1963 there were more than a million. In five years, their number has grown to 3 million. After the film was released, surfing underwent radical changes. Surfer shops opened on the west and east coasts of America. A family magazine for surfers, Surfing, began publication. They were followed by a series of surfing films. However, Hollywood has always misunderstood the essence of surfing. So all the films were more or less offensive to surfers.

In the late 60s, the popularity of big wave surfers was replaced by the advent of short boards. Long and heavy “guns” were replaced by small, maneuverable boards.

In the early 1970s, Waimea Bay's fame was eclipsed by the more spectacular waves of the north shore of the Bonzai Pipeline. They were ridden by surfers led by Gerry Lopez. And also the Sunset Beach waves, dominated by Jeff Hackman and Barry Kanaiaupuni. But in the mid-80s, everything changed with the advent of professionals Jeff Clark, Ken Bradshaw and Mark Foo, who decided to show the beauty of surfing, instead of the usual gliding on the waves of Waimea Bay.

greatest surfer Jeff Clark

The greatest surfer Jeff Clark suddenly discovered that Northern California is home to giant waves called Mavericks. Waves from 9 to 15 meters rage off the coast. But here, unlike Hawaii, there are sharks, rocks, and, in addition, icy water, which a 5 mm waterproof wetsuit protects from. To beat the waves, Mavericks must paddle for 45 minutes through a labyrinth of rocks in the choppy, icy Pacific Ocean to reach the starting point.

In May 1992, 2 years after Jeff Clark revealed his location to his colleagues, Surfing magazine published an article entitled "Cold Sweat." To confirm this, in 1994 California was attacked by a series of huge northern waves. Mavericks has confirmed its fame for surf lovers.

Coast Mavericks

In 1968, during the shortboard revolution, a four-year-old boy named Laird Hamilton visited the north coast of Hawaii with his mother. Little did he know then that he would become the greatest surfer of his generation, and perhaps the most famous today. Faced with exclusion from his peers because of his white hair color, Laird Hamilton turns to the older generation for inspiration and friendship at an early age. He dreamed of being a surfer, namely, of becoming part of the legendary conquerors of giant waves.

Laird understood that at that time the ocean had something unusual and interesting to offer. Even back in the 50s, everyone knew that far beyond the traditional places like Waimea Bay there were other reefs that could produce huge waves, you just had to look for them.

Even before 1969, the huge Pipeline Reef was broken by a thunderstorm, which generated huge waves. To reach them, Greg Noll and Mike Stang swam for two hours, then waited for about two more hours for a wave, and only then Greg made one of the most legendary slides on the north coast. In 1993, after 30 years, another attempt took place with a 3-meter board. With the help of a helicopter, Alec Cook landed on Oahu's giant Ka"ena Point wave, but was swallowed up by the abyss. The attempt was unsuccessful. It became obvious that there was some limit to wide waves in this type of surfing.

Like all professional surfers, Laird Hamilton continued to search for ways to conquer huge waves, becoming a world-class professional windsurfer. Now, thanks to the wind, the riders were fast enough to reach reefs and waves that were previously out of reach. In addition, the guys were freeboarding in clear water, and also made jumps while catching a wave. This prompted them to try freeboarding on giant waves.

In December 1992, Laird Hamilton and professional surfers Buzzy Kerbox and Darrick Doerner launched a surf on Sunset Beach using a Zodiac inflatable boat. Neither could have imagined that upon returning to the beach, surfing would be completely different forever.

This completely new type of surfing is called tow surfing. The trio quickly moved forward, exchanging the boat for a jet ski that was faster and more maneuverable. They also redesigned the boards, reducing their size to 1 meter and adding foot mounts for better turbulence control. Thanks to tow surfing, new boundaries have opened up, speed has increased and freedom of action has appeared. It turned out that you can ride a wave of any height and any size.

This is how the idea arose to conquer the huge waves of Peahi on the north coast of Maui. Peahi is the giant wave of the future. Its intimidating size, 5 times the height of Waimea Bay waves, has brought tow surfing into fashion. Like previous surf destinations, Peahi had its own team of pioneers who redefined big wave surfing. Now it has become possible what was previously considered something from the realm of science fiction. Challenging 60-foot waves at 35 miles per hour redefined surfing as a team sport.

In August 2000, Laird Hamilton took another giant wave leap, but one so dangerous and unpredictable that it changed the entire history of big wave surfing. He found this wave 3,000 miles from Maui on the French Polynesian island of Tahiti in one of the reef passages known as Teahupoo. The wave that the great surfer found is a bundle of hydrodynamics. Unlike deep waves, Teahupoo crashes on a very razor-sharp reef. The result is a supernatural wave that may not be as high as Peahi, but is incredible in its strength, mass and ferocity. The Teahupoo wave was the most remarkable achievement in surfing history.

the latest development of the legendary surfer Laird Hamilton - a hydrofoil surfboard

Many years ago, a young Hawaiian boy stood on his board and began to surf the wave. On the same wave that has passed through all these years, crossing many oceans, and carrying the strongest among surfers. From the king of surfing, Kahanamoku, to the pioneer of new ways to surf, Laird Hamilton, taking them all to the great pleasure that the sea brings us so easily and quickly.