Khibiny Mountains. Location on the map, height and photo. Khibiny Mountains
From taiga and birch forests in protected and deep valleys (up to 400 meters above sea level) to forest-tundra (no higher than 500 meters):
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And to the tundra (no higher than 800 meters above sea level).
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And to almost arctic desert on dome-shaped peaks.
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On the slopes, taiga-birch forests are quickly replaced by forests (and then forest-tundra) of low-growing birches.
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In a half-hour walk you can get acquainted with half of the Russian Plain.
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And communications coming from the south and above to the Rasvumchorr mine.
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Closer to the top of the mountain there are almost entirely stone ruins:
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Khibiny animals - tundra partridge, apparently:
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The Bolshoy Vudyavr ski complex, descending from the southwestern spur of Aykuaivenchorr, has been reconstructed in recent years.
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The modern cable car is adjacent to the Soviet one:
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But even those that have completely outlived their useful life are not removed - in the best Arctic traditions:
76. On the eastern bank there is the Yuksporryok cargo mining station:
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Behind it is the Yuksporryok-1 microdistrict with an industrial zone, a sedimentation tank, the Khibinogorsk monastery and the base of the Faculty of Geography of Moscow State University; I have not been there, despite many years of belonging to this faculty.
Beyond Yuksporryok, along the valley of the Yuksporryok River, there is the Rasvumchorr plateau and the Central mine, which I also did not visit, which is probably even more offensive than in the previous case.
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And to the northeast of Bolshoi Vudyavr, across the lake from the city center - the Kirov mine and the Kukisvumchorr microdistrict (aka the village 25 kilometers) with the museum named after. Kirov; I also did not visit this peripheral part of Kirovsk, which probably turned out to be my biggest omission in this city. But I saw it from the outside:
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And to the north of the lake is the famous Polar Botanical Garden, which belongs to the Kola Scientific Center of the Russian Academy of Sciences, located mainly in Apatity.
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And I didn’t manage to get there - it seems like only with a tour and advance notice.
I can only say from hearsay that in this botanical garden, among other things, experiments are being carried out on the cultivation and acclimatization in the Khibiny of all sorts of plants unusual for these high latitudes.
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This is the real Khibiny, a hiking country.
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Still, this compact mountain range is surprisingly suitable for light (and not so light) mountain tourism: the climbs are not too steep, not too long, and the mountains in any direction can be crossed in a few days.
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In the following parts - the Khibiny Mountains are left behind, moving further to the south.
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There are many beautiful mountains in Russia. One of them is the Khibiny Mountains. Once here, you will see stunning snowy peaks, clear lakes, noisy waterfalls, mountain tundra and even the northern lights. Let's find out where the Khibiny Mountains are located and why they are interesting.
Geographical position
To get to this unique place, you need to go to the Murmansk region. The Khibiny Mountains are located on the Kola Peninsula, in its very center. On both sides they are limited by lakes - Imandra and Umbozero. There is always snow on the steep slopes, because the massif is located beyond the Arctic Circle (67th parallel). Forest-tundra is adjacent.
Initially the mountains were called Umptek. Translated from the language of the local residents, the Sami, this means “a place where reindeer come to die.” However, later another name took root - Khibiny (“plateau”). The shape of the array resembles two horseshoes, one of which is nested inside the other. From space it looks very much like a huge stone flower.
Formation
The Khibiny Mountains are the oldest mountains located in Russia. They are believed to be about 390 million years old. The formation of the massif occurred in several stages. Initially, where the Khibiny Mountains are located now, powerful streams of hot magma flowed. Giant volcanoes gradually cooled, laying down the main forms of the plateau.
The second stage was glaciation. It began 1 million years ago. Glaciers advanced from Scandinavia, and this happened more than once. They smoothed out crystalline protrusions, cut wide valleys and narrow winding cracks, which later became rivers.
The last glaciation (Valdai) occurred about 100 thousand years ago. The mountains turned out to be completely filled with ice, as evidenced by the huge boulders on the rocky peaks. The apogee was observed 20 thousand years ago, and then gradual melting began.
The third stage of the formation of the Khibiny Mountains has not yet been completed. It is characterized by tectonic uplift. It is known that 20 million years ago the mountains rose 500 m above the surface of the earth. After 15 million years, this height doubled. Over the past 10 thousand years, the massif has grown by 20 m. Every year the mountains rise by 0.3-1.2 mm. Sometimes this process is accompanied by earthquakes, mostly weak.
Relief
The Khibiny Mountains rise above the surrounding hilly plain by an average of 800-1100 m. The structure of the massif is circular. The plateau is dissected by deep faults in the earth's crust, which diverge radially from the Poachvumchorr ridge. Valleys divide the mountains into separate, fairly large blocks. They, in turn, are divided into smaller areas by less significant gorges. Steep ledges descend towards Lake Imandra.
There are no peaked peaks in the Khibiny Mountains. All of them are plateau-shaped. The slopes are steep, without ledges, many of them are covered with glaciers and snowfields. Through valleys are U-shaped, smoothed during glaciations (so-called troughs). Huge boulders remained on the surface of the plateau. It is also worth noting the large number of ancient glacial cirques and cirques (steep bowl-shaped depressions on the slopes). The youngest gorges are almost vertical, going several tens of meters deep. The sun's rays never reach their bottom.
Peaks
The height of the Khibiny Mountains does not exceed 1206 m. The highest point is the Yudychvumchorr peak ("humming mountain"). According to other sources, it is slightly lower - 1200.6 m. Yudychvumchorr received its name because of the strong winds that constantly blow on its flat top, as if cut with a knife. Climbing here, you can see almost all the plateaus and mountain ranges.
For a long time, another peak was considered the highest point of the Khibiny Mountains - Chasnachorr (“woodpecker mountain”). It soars up to 1189 m. Today it holds an honorable second place. The third highest mountain is Putelichorr ("mass of alien people"). It rises into the sky at 1111 m.
But for the local residents - the Samami - the relatively low mountain Aykuaivenchorr (1075 m) is sacred. Its name translates as “head of the mother of God.” If you look at her from a distance, you can see a woman's face facing the heavens.
Geology
The Khibiny Mountains are composed mainly of nepheline syenites, a crystalline alkaline rock of igneous origin. Associated minerals are apatites containing phosphorus. The Khibiny apatite deposit is considered the largest in the world.
The massif has a ring structure. The rock complexes form arcs, nested within each other and open on the eastern side. This is explained by the intrusion of magma between alternating faults.
The mountains are called a natural museum of minerals. There are about 500 of them in total. Interestingly, 110 minerals are not found anywhere else. Some of them are not typical for massifs composed of alkaline rocks. Examples include topaz and spinel. In addition to apatites and nepheline, micas, ores of copper, iron, nickel and some other metals are of practical value. Outcrops of rare minerals, in particular blue sapphire, used in the jewelry industry, were discovered on Mount Eveslogchorr.
Climatic conditions
The Khibiny Mountains are located beyond the Arctic Circle, so the average annual temperature here is minus 0.1 °C. The polar night begins on December 10 and ends on January 3. Polar day lasts from May 31 to July 13. Summer and spring here are cool and quite late. Snow begins to melt at the end of April, when temperatures rise above 0 °C. The frost-free period in the mountains lasts no longer than 60-80 days.
The average summer temperature is +12 °C. On the hottest days it can rise to +30 °C and above. Usually this weather is accompanied by thunderstorms. However, after the sun there may come a sharp cooling down to minus 1-4 degrees and wet snow.
From September to April, locals admire the northern lights. The snow cover finally falls in early November. Winters in the Khibiny are warm, which is explained by its proximity to the Barents Sea. Its waters are warmed by the Gulf Stream. The average temperature is -11 °C, but at the peaks it is usually 10-15 degrees colder. Mountain avalanches occur quite often, posing a serious danger to tourists.
The average annual precipitation in the valleys is 600-700 mm. On mountain peaks this amount increases to 1600 mm. The winds blow very strong and gusty. Their average speed exceeds 5 m/sec. Instantaneous gusts can reach 60-80 m/sec. They are capable of blowing away a person standing on the edge of a plateau.
Flora and fauna
The Khibiny Mountains look very picturesque in the photo. Their slopes are covered with evergreen forests, moss and reindeer moss. Vegetation changes with increasing altitude. The foothills of 300-400 meters are covered in coniferous forests with a predominance of spruce and pine. Then the birch forest rises up about 100 m. After it the tundra zone begins. It is represented by lichens and small shrubs: crowberry, lingonberry, bearberry, blueberry. After the first frost, the leaves of the plants become brightly colored, creating an amazing multi-colored carpet.
As the height increases, the plants thin out and are replaced by rocky embankments. Here and there you can see patterns of green, gray or yellow lichens. The flora of the mountains is valuable; many plants are listed in the Red Book. The fauna is represented by 27 mammals. There are only 3 species of reptiles, 1 species of amphibians. Most of the birds are found in the mountains - 123 species.
Exploring the mountains
For a long time the Khibiny remained unexplored. Academician Lepekhin wrote about them for the first time, who in 1772 visited the Kola Peninsula and studied its central part. He notes that steep gorges may hide minerals. In the summer of 1834, mining engineer Shirokin began exploring the Western slope of the Khibiny.
In 1891-1892, an expedition led by geologist V. Ramsay arrived on the peninsula. She studied the area in detail over two seasons, collected a lot of geological information and compiled a map of the mountains. Further exploration of the region was prevented first by the world war and then by the revolution.
Only in 1920 did the next scientific and fishing expedition, led by A. Fersman, arrive on the Kola Peninsula. They discovered previously unknown minerals. Already in 1921, the development of apatite ores began near Mount Kukisvumchorr. A year later, it became clear that the Khibiny deposits were much richer than originally thought.
Industrial development
1926 is considered the official date for the discovery of large deposits on the Rasvumchorr plateau. From that time on, miners began to flock to the Kola Peninsula. In 1929, the Apatity trust was created. A year later, construction of the enrichment plant began. In 1931, the city of Khibinogorsk was founded, later renamed Kirovsk.
In the Khibiny Mountains, ore mining was brought to normal production. In 1966, a New City appeared near Kirovsk, now called Apatity. Villages were actively created. In 2012, the Northwestern Phosphorus Company built on the shores of the lake. Umbozero Oleniy Ruchey Mining and Processing Plant. The construction of another mine was planned, which caused outrage among the local population. An environmental movement has begun. People demanded to ban further development and recognize the Khibiny as a national park. This was completed in 2018.
Holidays in Khibiny
Many climbers flock to the Kola Peninsula in the summer. There are routes of varying difficulty, up to category 5B. But most passes have 1-2 categories. There are almost always shelves in the rocks for overnight stays; the danger of rocks is low. The descents are simple and picturesque. Many easy routes have been developed for hikers, allowing them to fully enjoy the beauty of northern nature.
In winter, ski slopes open on the Aykuaivenchorr and Kukisvumchorr mountains. Sports lovers can go skiing, snowboarding or colorful buns. Extreme sports enthusiasts choose off-piste descents through virgin fields, the steepness of which can reach up to 55°, or along avalanche flows. Of course, such entertainment is associated with enormous risk. As, indeed, winter hiking in the Khibiny Mountains. Instead, tourists are offered exciting excursions on snowmobiles.
We hope that now you will not be confused when looking at the atlas. The Khibiny Mountains seem small on the map, but in fact this is a harsh region fraught with a lot of dangers. Despite this, it attracts people with its beauty and unusual combination of rocks, marshy areas and clear northern lakes.
Not everyone dreams of golden beach sand on hot summer days. For some, plunging into the warm sea is the highest point of pleasure, while others choose the snow-white tops of mountain ranges as a break from the gray, boring everyday life. Fans of the Alps and Carpathians sometimes do not even realize the existence of another picturesque and dynamic mountain system not far from the Barents Sea, Khibiny (Murmansk region).
If you know the location of the Khibiny massif on the map of Russia, it is easy to compare the advantageous location and the existence of an entire tourist infrastructure in order to decide where the next ski holiday will take place.
Khibiny is a low mountain a system with a highest altitude of 2 thousand 200 m. Of course, the adrenaline is not the same as in the Alps, but the tourist will definitely have no reason to worry about the presence of snow, because there is plenty of it here. This guarantee of snow-capped peaks is provided by the location of the Khibiny - Polar region. The main city here is Kirovsk. The entire infrastructure for tourists is concentrated here, divided into 4 ski areas. Nearby there is also the city of Apatity with its ski lifts and ski slopes. About the Khibiny mountains of Murmansk There is little written about the area even in the famous Wikipedia, and not everyone knows how to get there, but this information will certainly be useful to the most purposeful.
Khibiny: where to find and how to get there
This massif is more than 300 million years old. The highest point of the mountains is Yudychvumchorr and occupies an altitude of 1 thousand 200 m above sea level. Despite its very modest size, the massif is the most majestic in the entire Arctic. According to tourists who have already been lucky enough to visit the Khibiny Mountains, the air here is very thin, but not because of the high location, as is commonly believed, but because of the Arctic currents.
Kola Peninsula- this is where the Khibiny Mountains are located. Kirovsk, which is the main city, is located near Helsinki, the Finnish capital, and is one of the most influential in the Murmansk region. The beauty of the Khibiny town is enclosed in a mountain half-ring, closed on the fourth side by Lake Bolshoi Vudyavr. The city arose relatively recently, in the 20s, as a result of industrial development of the mineral apatite. Kirovsk can be found on the southern slope of the mountains and just 12 km from it, on the banks of the Belaya River, Apatity is located. The territory is part of the Zasheikovsky forestry.
It's easy to get to a snowy Russian fairy tale. Khibiny Airport is an hour's drive from Kirovsk and receives flights from St. Petersburg and Moscow. Since the passenger flow is quite large, the small airport simply cannot cope and most tourists prefer to fly through Murmansk, which receives daily flights from any corner of the vast Motherland.
Which airlines fly to Khibiny:
- "RusLine";
- "Russia";
- "UTair".
Already from Murmansk you can get to Khibiny by regular bus in just 3–3.5 hours. A train transfer will take a tourist a whole day.
Climatic conditions of the mountains
The climate of the Khibiny region is very mysterious and unusual for the average Russian living somewhere in the central regions. The Khibiny Mountains are located a little to the north Arctic Circle, which means that in addition to the mountains and active recreation, a visitor has the opportunity to experience the famous polar night, which lasts here from mid-December to the second half of December. During this period of time the sun does not rise in the sky at all. For those who came in the summer months, nature provided a polar day that lasts throughout June and early July. During this period, the sun constantly shines in the sky and does not set even at night.
The Arctic is famous for its very harsh climate, but the Khibiny mountains retain enough o mild and hospitable weather all year round. Of course, the weather is often unpredictable and snow falls heavily even in Egypt, so it should not surprise anyone that in the Khibiny winter temperatures can reach -30–35 degrees Celsius. Sparkling snow covers the ground from autumn until late spring, and in some places, especially loved by tourists, the cover can be seen in summer.
According to regulars of these places, the Khibiny Mountains are most hospitable in April - May, since during this period the weather is clearest, daylight hours are long and the snow cover is most favorable for skiing. Those who come to celebrate New Year and Christmas in the mountains can witness incredible beauty and magic
Nature Khibiny
Upon entering Kirovsk Khibiny ski resort appears before the eyes of the tourist in all its glory. The peaks of the Vudyavrchorr and Aykuaivenchorr mountains rise majestically above the city (trans. “Sleeping Beauty”). On the slopes of the first is located one of the three unique polar botanical gardens. As you climb the slope of the Khibiny mountain higher and higher, you can observe how one natural landscape comes to replace another. The ascent begins from the valley tundra, then moves into the spruce taiga, then into the crooked birch forest, which gives way to alpine mosses and ends with the Arctic desert.
If you are tired of mountain tracks, you can change the slope with a flat ski track, which has a length of 14 km. The track is equipped for the convenience of tourists and is equipped with snowmobiles and scooters. Fans of hiking can use the services of a helicopter, which will take extreme sports enthusiasts to any of the four Khibiny peaks for very modest money. Here tourists will be able to test their survival skills and, going down the slope, enjoy the pristine nature of the Khibiny . Experienced athletes can ride on one of the heli-skiing mountain paths, but only under the supervision of an instructor, since these slopes are dangerous for avalanches.
The mineral resources of the Khibiny are carefully hidden in the tectonic structure of the mountains. There is iron ore, copper-nickel ores, and oil. But the main asset, of course, is the bluish-green apatite stones.
Overnight
Ski resort Khibiny is now experiencing particularly rapid development. Unfortunately, the hotel business has not yet reached the level of popular European resorts, but tourists note that in recent years many cozy hotels have appeared in Apatity and Kirovsk. Tourists who have visited the Khibiny Mountains are advised to approach the choice of accommodation with special attention and look for a hotel near their favorite ski slope. Each of the four ski resorts has its own hostels and hotels. Tourists may also enjoy accommodation in the private sector. Prices for accommodation in hotels and the private sector are relatively low, but the most economical option is still a hostel.
What to expect from the trails?
Khibiny is a real paradise for lovers of active recreation. In addition to standard tracks of any complexity, there is a modular stadium, springboards, and an ice skating rink. Austrian snowcats compact the ski track. Companies can climb to the top using chairlifts or numerous bugles. Equipment rental points and cafes are open 24 hours a day. Choosing a route for the entire vacation period, you need to take into account your skills, since each of the complexes has different level characteristics. The most gifted and trained skiers prefer the Kukisvumchorr and “Twenty-fifth Kilometer” slopes, while simpler athletes respect the “Northern Slope”. Board lovers are recommended to visit Khibiny Snow Park.
Ski resort prices
Apatity and Kirovsk are considered places for a budget ski holiday. The cost of ski passes and lifts is completely different everywhere, depending on the length of the lift and the ski area:
This ski resort is still which is only at the development stage, but the dynamics are impressive. That is why foreign and Russian investors are trying to invest in it to the maximum and make Khibiny a worthy, and most importantly, affordable replacement for expensive European resorts for everyone.
The Khibiny Mountains are a mountain range in the central part of the Kola Peninsula, which is predominantly a plateau with sloping steep slopes. In some places on the slopes of the mountain range there are so-called snowfields - accumulations of snow, protected from direct sunlight and winds. From the west and east, large lakes Imandra and Umbozero approach the mountains; in addition to these reservoirs, the area is rich in smaller lakes and small rivers.
The formation of the modern appearance of the Khibiny, composed mainly of alkaline rocks and granitoids of Precambrian age, one of the oldest in Russia - about 2 billion years old, occurred mainly in the very recent past under the influence of glaciers. During the Ice Age, the entire surrounding area was covered with an ice shell, and in some places rocks towered above it. As the glacier advanced, leaving grooves in the rock, and melted, carrying away debris, and then returned again, a unique glacial landscape was formed, which is characteristic of the entire Kola Peninsula. The glaciers on the Khibiny reached their maximum size approximately 20 thousand years ago.
The rise of the mountain range began after the end of glaciation: the ice began to finally disappear here about 10 thousand years ago, freeing the surface from a colossal burden. The Khibiny Mountains continue to grow, and since the disappearance of the bulk of the glaciers, their height has increased by about 20 m. In general, the process of formation of the ridge is characterized by unevenness, which affects the structure of the mountains: their structure is concentric, this is manifested in the arc-shaped arrangement of various rock layers. In addition, there is a decrease in the age of the rocks from the edges to the center. The layering is due to the fact that magma entered the crevices.
One of the pioneers of the Khibiny was the Russian and Finnish geologist Wilhelm Ramsay, who studied both this mountain range and the entire Kola Peninsula as a whole.
The result of the scientist’s painstaking work, in particular, was the Khibiny map.
The first Soviet expedition to the Khibiny Mountains started on August 25, 1920. It included mineralogist Alexander Fersman, President of the Academy of Sciences Alexander Karpinsky and geologist of the Geological Committee Alexander Gerasimov. The main task facing the specialists was the search for apatites, which are also used in ferrous and non-ferrous metallurgy. This expedition marked the beginning of the study of the Khibiny for industrial needs.
In 1929, the Apatit mining and processing plant was opened in Khibiny. During the Great Patriotic War, mines, grenades and other types of explosives were produced there, but already in 1944 the enterprise returned to normal operation.
By 1960, the mining of apatite and nepheline ore was put on stream in the Khibiny region, as a result, new cities began to appear for workers to live. Back in 1931, the city of Kirovsk was rebuilt here, and in 1966, the New City grew next to it, which was later renamed Apatity. Subsequently, other villages also appeared nearby, which were named in honor of the countless values of the Khibiny, including Titan and Nepheline Sands.
Ski resort among minerals
Khibiny is located in the central part of the Kola Peninsula. These are mainly plateaus, separated by gorges, with numerous passes and cliffs. The central region of the ridge is occupied by the Kukisvumchorr and Chasnachorr plateaus. At the foot of the Khibiny are the cities of Apatity and Kirovsk.Currently, many deposits are being developed in the Khibiny Mountains, and about five hundred minerals have been explored here.
The Khibiny Mountains to this day retain enormous potential for the development of the mining industry. There are many not only underground, but also open deposits. In particular, in the Khibiny region, deposits of vermiculite and phlogopite mica have been explored, deposits of precious stones (including blue sapphire) and ceramic pegmatites are being developed. In total, about 500 different minerals were identified in the Khibiny Mountains, 110 of which are found nowhere else.
In addition to minerals, the Khibiny Mountains also store invaluable underground reserves of water, and thermal springs were also discovered at a depth of more than 1.5 km.
The large scale of mining in the Khibiny region inevitably affects the environment. The problems are associated with the large volume of associated rock extracted from the ground, and with the need to cut down forests to start work on new deposits. This is why environmentalists are currently advocating the idea of creating a national park in the Khibiny Mountains region.
Work on studying and preserving local nature began in the first half of the 20th century. In particular, the Polar-Alpine Botanical Garden was created on Mount Vudyavrchorr. It gradually presents vegetation characteristic of the local tundra, spruce-birch and alpine tundras, as well as the Arctic desert. In general, more than 400 species of plants grow on the territory of the botanical garden.
The fauna of the Khibiny Mountains is represented mainly by birds; there are less than 30 species of mammals. However, a small number of species of the latter are characteristic of the entire Kola Peninsula.
After the end of the Ice Age, the ice did not retreat from the Khibiny Mountains for a long time. However, now there are practically no traces left of the glacial formations, except for the characteristic relief. At the moment, there are only four glaciers on the Khibiny, which occupy an area of about 0.1 km 2.
Seismic activity continues in the Khibiny region. The first recorded earthquake occurred back in 1758, and the last was recorded in 1988, with the epicenter near the city of Kirovsk.
Approximately a quarter of the territory of this ridge is at risk of avalanches. In addition, the Khibiny region experiences very difficult weather conditions: sharp changes in atmospheric pressure and strong winds are typical. In particular, at the peaks the wind speed can reach 50 m/s. In addition, the angle of climb gradually increases, and the path is blocked by numerous boulders. The situation is also complicated by the extremely changeable weather: conditions can change several times during the day.
However, the Khibiny Mountains invariably remain popular among climbers. Over the years of exploration of this mountain range, well-trodden routes have appeared, including options not only for experienced athletes, but also for beginners. In addition, there are ski slopes here, which are concentrated mainly in the Kirovsk area.
general information
Location: Kola Peninsula.Administrative affiliation: .
Largest cities: Apatity - 57,398 people. (2015), Kirovsk - 27,250 people. (2015).
Nearest airport: Apatity airport.
Numbers
Area: 1300 km2.Highest point: Mount Yudychvumchorr (1200.6 m).
Main peaks: Chasnachorr (1188 m), Putelichorr (1111 m).
Climate and weather
Characterized by long and snowy winters and cold and short summers.However, the proximity of the Gulf Stream causes a warmer climate compared to other polar regions of Russia.
The polar night lasts 42 days.
Average January temperature: -5°C.
Average temperature in July: +14°C.
Average annual precipitation: from 600-700 mm in valleys to 1600 mm on mountain plateaus.
Economy
Industry: mining (apatite, nepheline, sphene, aegirine, feldspar, titanomagnetite).Scientific research.
Service sector: tourism.
Attractions
■ Natural: Lyavinskaya and Poutelle hills, Polar-Alpine Botanical Garden-Institute.■ Kirovsk: museum and exhibition center of JSC "Apatit", local history museum, V. Erofeev Literary Museum.
■ Apatity: museum-archive of the history of the study and development of the European North of Russia, museum of geology and mineralogy of the Geological Institute of the KSC RAS, open-air geological park, museum-apartment of academician A.V. Sidorenko.
Curious facts
■ The Polar-Alpine Botanical Garden is the northernmost botanical garden in Russia and one of three botanical gardens in the world located beyond the Arctic Circle.■ The Khibiny tundra was often called the “Skull of the Earth” in the past. Thus, scientists have noted areas where ancient rocks come to the surface, the formation of which is associated with geological processes multibillion years ago. These formations are part of the Baltic crystalline shield.
■ The writer Mikhail Prishvin, during his long journey through the European and Russian North, visited the Khibiny Mountains in 1907. One of the stories, “The Khibiny Mountains,” is dedicated to them.
■ Most of the Khibiny peaks have Sami names. There are few speakers of the Sami language - the Sami, or Lapps - left; they live mainly in the north of the Scandinavian Peninsula and on the Kola Peninsula.
Khibiny (Kild. Umptek) is the largest mountain range on the Kola Peninsula. Geological age is about 350 million years. The peaks are plateau-shaped, the slopes are steep with isolated snowfields.
However, not a single glacier was discovered in the Khibiny Mountains.
The highest point is Mount Yudychvumchorr (1200.6 m above sea level).
In the center are the Kukisvumchorr and Chasnachorr plateaus.
At the foot are the cities of Apatity and Kirovsk.
At the foot of Mount Vudyavrchorr is the Polar-Alpine Botanical Garden-Institute.
The Khibiny Mountains combine features of regional and local mountain climate. The outer slopes of the mountains experience a significant softening influence of the climate of the surrounding plains, and the microclimate of the central part of the massif is much more severe. There is snow in the mountains from October to June.
The polar night lasts 42 days. Frequent cyclones, sudden changes in atmospheric pressure. In the open spaces of the peaks, winds can blow at speeds of up to 50 m/s. From August to mid-April you can observe the northern lights.
Summer is short, in the mountains there are 60-80 days without frost. In the foothills, the period with an average daily temperature above 10 °C lasts about 70 days. Summer also sees maximum precipitation. The polar day lasts 50 days.
In the Khibiny, precipitation falls from 600-700 mm in the valleys, to 1600 mm of precipitation on the mountain plateaus. Throughout the year, precipitation is distributed almost evenly, a little more in summer, a little less in winter. In summer, about 20% of days are without precipitation with an average precipitation of 2 mm/day, in winter only 10% with an average precipitation of 1.5 mm/day. Khibiny, Khibiny Mountains
Flora and fauna
Flora Khibiny is very valuable. A large number of species included in the “red books” of various ranks grow on the territory of the massif.
The fauna of terrestrial vertebrates of the Khibiny mountain range includes 27 species of mammals, 123 species of birds, 2 species of reptiles, 1 species of amphibian. Almost all mammals of the Murmansk region are represented here. Some of them are classified as protected or endangered.
Geology
The Khibiny alkaline massif is a large intrusive body of complex shape and composition. The age according to the helium-lead method is determined to be Carboniferous and is 290 ± 10 million years. A characteristic feature of the Khibiny massif is its circular (in plan) structure, which has a number of analogies among some other alkaline massifs. The rock complexes that make up the massif form arcs, as it were, folded into each other, open to the east, which is explained by the intrusion of magma along alternating circular and conical faults.
About 500 minerals are currently found on the territory of the Khibiny massif, dozens of which are of practical value, 110 are not found anywhere else. Such a concentration of a huge amount of minerals in a limited area has no analogues anywhere in the world. The unique geochemistry of the Khibiny massif leads to the accumulation of rare minerals and creates deposits of completely new minerals. Khibiny, Khibiny Mountains
Rock complexes that make up the Khibiny massif:
complex of khibinites and endocontact nepheline syenites,
complex of trachytoid khibinites,
rischorrite complex,
complex of ijolite-urtites, malignites and lujavrites,
complex of medium-grained nepheline syenites,
foyait complex.
Within the Khibiny massif, unique [source not specified 558 days] mineral associations were found that are not typical for other alkaline rock massifs, including topaz and spinel. In the xenoliths of Mount Eveslogchorr there is a manifestation of blue sapphire - a gemstone of the highest category.
Long Lake, Khibiny
Mining
Khibiny mountains.
The largest deposits of apatite-nepheline ores are located on the territory of the Khibiny massif.
The following mines are currently operating: Kirovsky (Kukisvumchorr and Yukspor deposits), Rasvumchorrsky (Apatite Circus and Rasvumchorr plateau deposits), Central (Rasvumchorr plateau), Vostochny (Koashva and Nyorkpakhk deposits) and the recently opened Oleniy Ruchey (Koashva deposit). Mining is carried out both underground and open pit. The number of open-pit mining operations is decreasing and soon the development of deposits will be carried out only by underground methods.
The main minerals mined in the Khibiny are: apatite, nepheline, sphene, aegirine, feldspar, titanomagnetite. Previously, lovchorrite was mined.
Expeditions and travelers
1840 A. F. Middendorf.
1887-1892 V. Ramsay, A. Chilman, A. Petrelius and others.
1880 N.V. Kudryavtsev.
1907 M. M. Prishvin.
1914 construction of the Murmansk railway begins.
1920 Academician A.E. Fersman discovered rare alkaline minerals.
1925-1926 A. N. Labuntsov discovered large deposits of apatite.
1930 Construction of an apatite-nepheline processing plant (ANOP-1) began on the shore of Lake Bolshoy Vudyavr.
2012 Oleniy Ruchey mining and processing complex was opened in the eastern part of Khibiny, on the shore of Lake Umbozero.
Currently, the Khibiny Mountains are popular among mountain and ski tourists, as well as climbers. To overcome them both in summer and winter, good physical preparation of the participants is necessary. However, most passes are non-category, or have 1-2 categories. All Khibiny passes can be divided into two types - saddles and gorges. Khibiny, Khibiny Mountains
Highest peaks:
Peaks
Height
Categorical
Yudychvumchorr 1200.6 m in winter 1A, in summer n/c -
Chasnachorr 1189 m -
Putelichorr 1111 m in winter 1A, in summer n/c -
An interesting fact is that until a certain time, Mount Chasnachorr (1189 m) was considered the highest point of the Khibiny. Although even now on the Internet there are often resources in which Chasnachorr is indicated as the highest point. No less interesting is this fact: according to various sources, the height of Mount Yudychvumchorr ranges from 1200 to 1206 meters.
Mount Yudychvumchorr
KHIBINY OBJECTS
Yudychvumchorr (Kild: “humming mountain”) is a mountain with steep walls and a flat top, located on the Kola Peninsula in the southwestern block of the Khibiny. Height 1200.6 meters. From the south and southeast, Yudychvumchorr is limited by the deep valley of the Malaya Belaya River, and from the west by the valley of the Fersman stream. It is the highest point of the European Arctic of Russia.
Yudychvumchorr is sometimes also called Mount Fersman, in honor of the Khibiny researcher, the famous Soviet geochemist and mineralogist Alexander Evgenievich Fersman.
Kukisvumchorr is a mountain range on the Kola Peninsula. The largest of those included in the Khibiny Mountains. The highest point is Mount Kukisvumchorr (1143 m above sea level). Located in the center of Khibiny. It is composed of nepheline syenites. The mountain slopes are steep, covered with forest-tundra vegetation. The peaks are flat and rocky. In the northern part there are two glaciers. The Vudyavryok River flows along the western side of the massif. The Tulyok and Kuniyok rivers originate on the massif. At the foot of the mountains there are lakes Bolshoy Vudyavr and Maly Vudyavr. Lake Akademicheskoe is located in the mountains. In the foothills there is a remote area of Kirovsk with the same name, where apatite-nepheline ores are being developed.
On the southern slope of Mount Kukisvumchorr there is a ski complex of the same name, which hosts annual freeride competitions.
On October 21, 2010, a man-made earthquake with a magnitude of 3.2 occurred in the Kukisvumchorr microdistrict. Tremors were also felt in Murmansk. The earthquake caused only minor damage to a nearby mine.
Kukisvumchorr pass
Chasnachorr (Sami - Woodpecker Mountain) is a mountain range located in the western part of the Khibiny. The second highest mountain is 1189 m.
The mountain limits the basins of the valleys of the Meridional Stream from the east (connects with the meridional ridge of Poachvumchorr), the Kuniyok River and the Petrelius Stream from the west. In the north it is separated from Mount Indivichvumchorr by the South Chorgorr pass, and in the southwest it joins the highest plateau Yudychvumchorr. The most difficult passes of the Khibiny Mountains are located on this bridge: Fersman and Krestovy. The Chasnayok River originates in the northern cirque of the mountain. The highest point is a plateau. The mountain is bounded on the north, east and south by steep walls.
KHIBINY PASSES
South Chorgorr town, Lake Imandra
view from Mount Kukis, great moon
Malaya Belaya River, Northern Lights
Lake Imandra from the Aku-Aku pass
Fersman Pass is a pass in the Murmansk region, height - 974 m above sea level. It is located in the western part of the Khibiny between the peak of Fersman and the Yudychvumchorr plateau, connecting the valleys of the Meridional Stream and the Small White River. Named in honor of the Soviet geochemist and researcher Khibiny - Alexander Evgenievich Fersman.
Risyok River Khibiny, Khibiny Mountains
REPORT ON HIKING AND MOUNTAIN TRIP TO KHIBINY
Report on the mountain hiking trip II class. in the Khibiny Mountains
Date: July 14 - August 2, 2006
Route book No. 177-04/3-216
Head: Olkhovskaya I.G. (Moscow)
1. Background information about the hike
Organization: GOU DDYUTE YuOUO DO Moscow, GOU Secondary School No. 1037 "Lingua".
District: Southern.
Trekking area: Kola Peninsula, Khibiny Mountains.
Type of tourism: mountain.
Hiking difficulty category: second.
Route thread: Moscow - st. Apatity - Kirovsk - PSS Base - lane. Northern Lyavochorr (n/k, 713) - lane. Vysoky (1A, 1125) - lane. Northern Rischorr (n/k, 875) - PSS Base - lane. Southern Rischorr (n/k, 895) - lane. Nameless (1A, 925) - lane. Takhtarvumchorr (1B, 1093.8) - lane. Western Petrelius (n/k, 846) - lane. Orliny (1B, 1105) - st. Khibiny - Apatity - Moscow.
Route length: 127.5 km.
Duration of the trip: from July 14 to August 2, 2006.
Duration of the active part: 12 days.
Route book No. 177-04/3-216.
Tourist opportunities of the area
In the Khibiny you can make hiking trips up to IV KS, mountain hikes up to III KS.
The passes Alyavumchorr Vostochny, Alyavumchorr, Burevestnik, Krestovy, Polnochny, Crack have a category of 2A in the summer and allow you to do this.
Khibiny and mountaineering region. Classified routes from 1B to 4B have been laid to the peaks of Takhtarvumchorr, Vudyavrchorr, Yumyechorr. The Murmansk publishing house "Sever" has published a catalog describing these routes.
Khibiny is a very popular ski area. Here you can plan routes to CS III. However, beginner ski groups must be prepared for a categorized route, have experience in cold overnight stays, and be able to operate in avalanche conditions.
Khibiny is a developing ski area. Directly from Kirovsk you can take the ski lifts and go to the ski slopes. There are hotels, and the private sector is developed. The slopes are rolled by snowcats.
Options for entering and exiting the route
The main mode of transport for access and exit is the railway, which passes through the city of Apatity and further along the western edge of Khibiny (the eastern shore of Lake Imandra). After the city of Apatity, within the Khibiny, there are stations: Khibiny, Nepheline Sands and Imandra.
We traveled to Apatity by train No. 212. Departure from Moscow at 1.17. morning from Leningradsky station, arrival in Apatity the next day at 10.16. The fare is 1047 rubles. Back on it, No. 211. Departs from Apatit at 21.25, arriving in Moscow at Leningradsky Station at 4.40 am. The fare is 1140 rubles.
By prior arrangement from Moscow by telephone at the railway station in Apatity, we were met by a ZIL 130 from the Kirov PSO and dropped off in the travel area, to Lake Goltsovoye. It cost us 2,500 rubles for a group of 14 people.
The city of Apatity is connected by bus with Kirovsk (southern part of Khibiny) and with the village of Koashva (eastern part of Khibiny).
There is an airport in Apatity that is capable of receiving planes from distant places. There are currently no regular passenger flights from Moscow.
Several bus numbers run from Apatity to Kirovsk. Of these, only one number (101) comes from the railway station. If you travel by other numbers, you need to change to route 101 or route 8 in the center of Apatity (near the Sever store). The fare is 6 rubles.
Getting from Apatity to Imandra station quickly is not easy. There are only two electric trains - Apatity-Olenegorsk (at 7 am) and Olenegorsk-Apatity (at 4 pm). As you know, there is no road there. That is why you have to leave more time for this section.
From Khibiny station you can get to Apatity by bus, which runs every day at 15.00. and at 17.00. The bus journey takes 40 minutes, the fare is 34 rubles. 80 kopecks. Also by the work train, which runs on weekdays at 17.00.
Other railway travel options: from Moscow and back there are three trains from Moscow to Murmansk. No. 15/16, 111/112, 181/182.
Information about the possibility of organizing pick-up along the route
Of course, the main possibility of organizing a delivery is connected with the PSS base. Another possibility is the MGU station, if the route passes there. You can always leave the cast simply in the stones, but for this it must be properly prepared. Those. in boxes and always in plastic bags in case of rain. Of course, we must not forget the location of the drop and better camouflage it.
We planned to place three drops in three different locations. But on the way to the base, the rescuer warned us that at the moment a bear was wandering in those places and could ruin the camp. Therefore, we left only one drop-off in the stones (under the descent from the Bezymyanny pass), and took the other two to the Kuelpor base. We decided that it was better to run the extra kilometers than to be left without food.
By prior arrangement from Moscow by phone at the railway station in Apatitikh, we were met by a ZIL 130 from the Kirov PSO and dropped off at the travel area, to Lake Goltsovoye. It cost us 2,500 rubles for a group of 14 people.
waterfalls under Marchenko peak
3. Organization of the trip
Route selection
The group made a mountain hike II KS. The Khibiny region was chosen as the area for the trip due to the presence in the group of three inexperienced participants who joined the Edelweiss school tour section in the 2005-2006 academic year. The rest of the participants have quite a decent tourist experience: mountain I KS in the Khibiny, mountain II KS in the Sayans.
The majority of participants were in Khibiny not for the first time. Therefore, when constructing the route, passes were chosen that we had not yet been to. Many sections are planned to be traversed without a trail.
In 2004, while making a mountain hike I KS, we conducted a snow lesson under the Orliny pass (1B), but we could not go to the pass itself. Now, during the II KS campaign, we could pass the pass we liked and was uncharacteristic for the Khibiny. Also, we could afford to visit other difficult passes.
In 2005, Gromov V.V. released a classifier of passes in the Khibiny Mountains, consisting of 93 passes. In it, the Eagle Pass has another name - the Baltic Passage, the Krestovy Pass - Skalisty, it is not entirely clear where the Krutoy Pass is located (or is it the Eagle Pass?). What pass is meant by the name Vysoky? We wanted to find answers to these and other questions.
Alternate and emergency route options
Alternate options were provided:
Instead of the Vysoky pass (1A) there are the Nakhodka (1A) and Yuzh.Partomchorr (n/a) passes.
Instead of the Krutoy (1B) and Fersman (1B) passes, the Southern Chorgorr (n/k, 850) and 60 Let Oktyabrya (1B) passes.
Spare options allow you to maintain the declared category.
Emergency route options allow you to leave the area in the easiest way in the shortest time (see overview map of the hiking area). In our case, this is from the area of the Northern and Southern Lyavochorr, Northern and Southern Rischorr passes, and the Orliny pass - to the PSS base. They can help with transport and take you to Kirovsk. From Vysoky - through Northern Portomchorr to the base. From the Bezymyanny pass - to Kirovsk. From the Orliny and Fersman passes - to the Khibiny station. From Khibiny station you can take a bus or work train to Apatity. An emergency exit can be accomplished within a day.
Mount Rischorr Khibiny, Khibiny Mountains
5. Technical description of the route
Explanations for the technical description
In the text, river banks and valley sides are referred to as orographic, unless otherwise noted. Transitions took 25 minutes each, unless further explained. MN is a place to spend the night. On simple scree slopes with a steepness of up to 200, self-belaying with an ice ax or alpenstock was used everywhere.
First walking day.
Apatity station - Kirovsk - PSS base - Lake Goltsovoye - approach to the Northern Lyavochorr pass (n/k, 713).
Overnight at an altitude of 400 m.
Elevation gain -200 m.
Height drop - 0 m
Kilometers - 4.8 km.
CHW - 40 min.
On July 15, train No. 212 Moscow - Murmansk arrived at the Apatity station at 10:00 am. We were met by 3IL 130 from the PSS base. We went to Kirovsk. In Kirovsk we stopped at Lenin Square near the Pochta stop. They gave 2 telegrams: to SYUTur and to DDYUTE. We went to the pharmacy and bought hiking boots for the participant in a sports store for 1,800 rubles. We bought bread for the first 3 days.
Then we went to the PSS base, leaving drop-off point No. 1 along the way at the descent from the Bezymyanny pass. We arrived at the Kuelporr base, checked in with the rescuers, left two drops Nos. 2 and 3. A total of 11 boxes.
We passed Lake Shchuchye and stopped on the right bank of Lake Goltsovoye beyond the confluence of the river. Lyavoyok is on the right as you go into the lake. The driver did not go any further because... There is no road along the lake. It is possible to drive the car along the sandy shore of the lake. But also quite close. Also, we were afraid to drive past the valley we needed. Therefore, we landed immediately after crossing the strait between two lakes. At 15.00 we got up for lunch.
At 17.00 we leave from lunch. We move along Lake Goltsovoye on the right bank along the way without a path along the edge of the lake (photo No. 1). We have to cross the mouth of the river. North Lyavoyok, which flows into the lake on the right along the way. The mouth consists of 4 branches, which we cross by fording. The ford is simple, ankle-deep, the width of the arms is 2-3 meters. We cross them in walking shoes. We go to the Northern Lyavochorr pass not along the bed of the Sev River. Lyavoyok, because there is no trail there. There is dense crooked forest all around. Therefore, we move further north along the lake another 1 km to the road marked on the map. As a guide to this road, you can use the bay in Lake Goltsovoye on the left along the western side of the lake, almost opposite the road. We get on the road and move along it one crossing (25 minutes), we go out to the Sev River. Lyavoyok, let's take a break. During this transition we come across three places for overnight stays. You can't stand anywhere, because... The river valley is narrow and rocky. All around there are crooked forests, mixed forest, low birches, pine trees, deep moss litter, last year's berries (lingonberries). There are no lingonberries for this year yet. Shiksha has not yet matured, but is just beginning. Blueberries are also just starting - we arrived early. We walk another 15 minutes and find a place to spend the night. These are rocky areas in the river valley; you can also put up tents directly in the forest. We decide not to miss it, because there may be no further places. And to the Northern Lyavochorr pass there are still about 3 km. At 18.30. We stop for the night. Water from the river. There is firewood in the forest.
July 16.
Second walking day.
Northern Lyavochorr Pass (n/k, 713) - valley of the Kaljok River.
Overnight at an altitude of 700 m.
Elevation gain -313m to the pass + 100 m across the ridge + 100 m to MN = 513m
Height drop - 200 m.
Kilometers - 8.4 km
CHW -2h 05 min.
Departure at 10.00. From MN we continue along the road. In fact, this road leads under the Central Lyavochorr pass (1A, 909), but before the confluence of the streams under the Northern and Central Lyavochorr passes, you can use it to approach the Northern Lyavochorr pass. Photo No. 2 shows how the spur of the Lyavoyok peak (1047.1) divides the valley: to the left - to the Northern Lyavochorr, to the right - to the Central. From MN this is one transition, i.e. 25 minutes.
After another 15 minutes we approach the foot of the spur of the Lyavoyok peak. The road goes to the right along the way, towards the Central Lyavochorr (f. No. 3) and its pass takeoff is visible. And we leave the road to the left, moving along a barely noticeable path along medium and small scree along the bottom of the valley for 10 minutes. From here there is a view of the pass saddle (photo No. 4). After another crossing we are at the pass (photo No. 5). Passage takeoff 200m long, steepness 200 - 250, fine scree. The saddle is wide, the tour is in the central part. From the pass there is a view into the valley of the Kaljok River. From the pass we go down a little, go around the peak of Lyavoyok (1047.1), leaving it on the right along the way. We traverse a slope covered with small and medium scree, with a steepness of 200. In two transitions we reach a depression in the ridge between the Lyavoyok peak on the right along the route and the peak 905 m on the left. Thus, we climbed the spur from the top of Lyavoyok. It is 100 meters higher than the North Lyavochorr pass. From it you can see that from the peak of 905.0 m there is a road to the valley of the Kaljok River.
We, traversing the slopes of Mount Lyavoyok, descend to the upper reaches of the Kaljok River. From the slopes of Lyavoyok there is a view of the upper reaches of the Kaljok valley, Mount Lyavochorr and the Southern and Central Lyavochorr passes.
An abandoned oil rig is visible below. Not far from it, closer to the water, we will camp for the night.
It's steep to go straight down. The slope is covered with small scree, length 200 m, steepness 500-550. Therefore, we traverse a little to the left and come out to the road leading from the peak of 905.0 m. We walk along it to the first water (this is Kaljok) and have a snack. From the pass to this place there are 4 treks of 25 minutes each.
We climb the left (orographically) bank of the Kaljok River along a dirt road leading to the tower. We go through one passage, during which the boys accidentally hit a stone and get a partridge for food. You have to stop for the night at the tower, as there is firewood for cooking next to it. As the next day showed, there was nowhere for such a large group to stand higher. But you can find a place for one or two tents during one more transition. We get up for the night at 17.00. Water from the river, firewood can be collected around the abandoned tower. Quite a large rocky flat area.
July 17th.
Third walking day.
Vysoky Pass (1A, 1125) - approach to the Northern Rischorr Pass (n/k, 875.)
Overnight at an altitude of 440 m.
Elevation gain - 425 m to the pass + 200 m to the ridge = 625 m.
Height drop - 625 m in length. R. Maivaltajoka+ 260 m in dol. R. North Kaskasnynyok=885 m.
Mileage -14.4 km.
Time period - 2h20 min for ascent + 2h 30 min for descent.
We left the MN from the tower at 10.00. We move along the road, but during the first 10-15 minutes. it's over. There is a river, but from time to time it goes under the rocks. Snowfields lie on one side or the other. In one trek we reach the descent from the Central Lyavochorr pass. On the moraine, under the pass, you can put up 1-2 tents - in some places there are small pebbles, water comes to the surface in some places. The moraine is composed of medium and large stones.
We pass another crossing; ahead we see the confluence of streams that give rise to the Kaljok River. It is clear that you need to go either left or right. To the left - to the top of Lyavochorr (1188.6), to the right - to the Vysoky pass (1A, 1125), that is, the South Lyavochorr pass. Orographically this name is more logical. We are going to the Vysoky pass, so we went to the right. From below, the takeoff of the pass seemed low, but long and gentle (200m, steepness 200). But after climbing it, a huge plateau of the Lyavochorr peak opens ahead (photo No. 11), along which we walked for 2 passages until a view into another valley opened up. This is the valley of a stream flowing into the river. Maivaltayok. At the pass at 13.10. 2 notes were taken: 2003, 2005. In one of them it is written that this is Southern Lyavochorr, and in the other - High.
Thus, the climb to the pass is simple. 1And he is on the other side, along which we are going down. On the descent, the slope is 300 m long, 30-350 steep, composed of medium and large scree. The stones are sharp. We descend, following the rules of movement in rock-fall-hazardous areas, self-insurance with an ice ax, and wearing helmets. The general direction of descent is left-down. There is no path. The entire slope is strewn with parts of a crashed plane. Based on the spare parts we took, we concluded that this happened in 1985 -1986. The descent took 25 minutes.
Under the pass, during the descent, there are two lakes. One, further away, can be seen immediately from the pass. Another - approximately from the middle of the pass takeoff. One thing is marked on the map. At the second, distant lake, at 1400 we have a snack.
We left from a snack at 1530. Our next pass is Northern Rischorr. The slopes of the valley are quite gentle, up to 200, covered with small scree. Therefore, we do not go down into the Maivaltayok valley, but traverse the eastern slopes of Portomchorr (1081), leaving the mountain on the right. We are moving without a path. After two crossings we reach a stream flowing from under Northern Portomchorr. We cross it over the rocks. From here its saddle is clearly visible.
Continuing to traverse the slope, we go around the city of Portomchorr from the south over two transitions. We move along a simple scree slope with a steepness of up to 200. Thus, we went around the mountain from the south.
We come to a steep descent into the valley of a stream flowing from under the South Portomchorr pass. This is the left tributary of the river. Kaskasnuyok. The steepness of the slope is about 300 - 350, the length of the section is 200 m, the elevation difference is 120 m, covered with small scree. Using self-belay with an ice ax, wearing helmets, we descend the slope to the stream along a serpentine road, cross the stream on the rocks and on the right bank at 1900 we camp for the night on a flat rocky and grassy area. No firewood, water from a stream.
July 18.
Fourth walking day.
Northern Rischorr Pass (n/k, 875) - PSS base.
Overnight at an altitude of 280 m.
Elevation gain - 435 m.
Height drop - 595 m.
Kilometers -10.8 km.
CHW - 4 hours 10 minutes.
From MN we climb the spur from the peak of 1083m in one trek (25 minutes) and descend to the river flowing from under the Umbozersky pass (n/k, 527). This is the left tributary of the Northern Kaskasnuyok. We cross it over the stones. In two transitions we cross the spur of the Rischorr peak (1017.9 m), traversing its slopes. The slopes are covered with small scree, in places overgrown with mosses and lichens. By traverse we go out into the gorge of the Northern Rischorr pass. From the right side of the gorge you can see the pass saddle of the Northern Rischorr. In 10 minutes we approach the pass takeoff. In the lower part it is a scree slope, 200-300 steep, small moving scree. We first move along it to the snowfield, then we go out onto the snowfield. It is more convenient to walk on it than on moving scree. The snowfield is 200 m long, with a steepness of 200 - 300. When moving along the snowfield, the first steps hit. The ascent to the pass from under the pass takes 20 minutes. We ascend to the pass at 12.50. We go straight to the tour. The tour is made of large stones, with a ski pole sticking out of it. We take a note from a group of teachers led by S.V. Ustinov. from DDYUTE Southern Administrative District of Moscow. They were here on July 15 of this year (i.e. three days ago) and passed it in the other direction - to Umbozero.
The Rischorra gorge is narrow and long, clogged with snow. The height of the walls - rocks of the gorge is 7 m, length is 300 m.
We pass the pass saddle and emerge from the pass gap. It's starting to rain. We descend into the Rischorra valley. Almost immediately from the pass the trail begins, which we follow. The descent into the Risjok valley takes place along a simple scree slope with a steepness of 200. We descend in two steps of 25 minutes each. and we go out to a dirt road. The forest zone begins here. We go down the road. Along the right bank of the Risjok River for 1 hour, from 14.00 to 15.00, and we come to the intersection with the road leading to the PSS base. We turn right, walk 300-400m, 10 minutes, exit to the PSS base.
At the base we are located in a house with a stove. Accommodation in rescue houses costs 120 rubles per person for one day. You can order a bathhouse. 1 hour - 300 rubles.
The Ramsay Hotel was built and operates on the territory of the PSO. But the prices are much higher.
July 20.
Fifth walking day.
PSS base - South Rischorr pass (n/k, 895) - Lake Akademicheskoye - approach to the Bezymyanny pass (1A, 925).
Overnight at an altitude of 420 m.
Elevation gain -615 m.
Height drop - 475 m.
CHW - 4 hours 35 minutes.
Because of the rain, we postpone the departure until 1200. Because of the fog, only the nearest mountains are visible. We go to the South Rischorr pass (n/k, 895) along the road familiar to us from the descent from the Northern Rischorr pass. It goes along the right bank of the river. In one hour (the backpacks are light - we took food for three days, until the next transfer) we reach the crossing point over the Risyok River, where the road forks. Turn left to Northern Rischorr, right to Southern Rischorr. We go to the right.
After one more transition (up to 1400) we approach the pass takeoff (200-300, length 250m, rock-talus) of Southern Rischorr (photo No. 21). There is a path to the pass. In 40 minutes we climb to the pass. A tour in the central part of the pass, a bench around it, two memorial plaques. It's snowing and windy. So we quickly take pictures and go downstairs.
Our next pass is Bezymyanny (1A, 925). That's why we don't go down to the river valley. Kaskasnyunyok, and by traverse we go to Lake Akademicheskoye, then we traverse the eastern and southern slopes at 905m and find ourselves in the valley of the Tulyok River.
The stated route planned to climb to a plateau above the lake. However, the weather and its forecast are bad. Visibility is limited (500 m). Therefore, we decided not to climb the plateau.
We descended into the river valley and immediately came across a path going towards the Bezymianny pass. We stood above the forest line on grassy areas next to the path. Below, 400 m, crooked forest can be seen. There is no point in going down to him, because... This is a loss of height and the grass and bushes will only make you even more wet. Because The rain didn't stop, everything around was wet. And possible firewood too. We cook dinner on the burners, water from the river. We set up the tents in tandem and cook between them, because... rain and wind. The pass is covered with fog from time to time.
21 July.
Sixth walking day.
Valley of the Tulyok River - Bezymyanny Pass (1A, 925 m) - Lake Maly Vudyavr.
Overnight at an altitude of 360 m.
Elevation gain -505 m.
Height drop - 565 m.
Mileage -12 km.
CHW -5 hours.
In the morning there is rain and strong wind. The attendants get up at 9.00. We cook in the vestibule under the awning. The food on duty is delivered to the tents.
July 22.
Seventh walking day. Midday.
Excursion to PABS - 23 km of Kirovsk - approach to the Takhtarvumchorr pass.
Overnight at an altitude of 500 m.
Elevation gain -40 m (from PABS to MN) + 140 m (approach to the pass).
Height drop - 40 m (from MN to PABS).
Kilometers - 18 km, counting 14.4 km.
CHW -3 hours 20 minutes.
July 23
Eighth walking day.
Per. Takhtarvumchorr (1B, 1093) - valley of the Malaya Belaya River.
Overnight at an altitude of 400 m.
Elevation gain -593 m.
Height drop -693 m.
Mileage -12 km.
CHW -6 hours 15 minutes
Exit from MN from the forest border at the stream crossing at 10.00. We go above the stream on the right side of the valley along the middle scree, in some places we come across large boulders. Traversing the slope. In 2 transitions, by 11.30, we approach the pass takeoff. This is a rock-talus slope with a steepness of 300 and a length of 250 m. The total length of the pass takeoff is 500-550 m. In the lower part it is a rocky-talus slope with a steepness of 300 and a length of 250 m. First we move along small and medium scree, 1 transition. We approach a snowfield 100 m long, with a steepness of 300-450. The snowfield occupies almost the entire width of the pass takeoff. As long as it is possible to walk to the right of him along the rocks, we go.
The depth of the snowfield is waist-deep and higher. And to the right of it there is no longer scree, but rocks, and wet ones at that. Therefore, we further move along the snowfield, hanging one vertical railing 40 m long. Participants wear harnesses. Attached to the railings with a gripping knot. They work in helmets and gloves. Poles with lanyards on hand, ice axes secured. There is one person at a time on the railing. The steepness of the snowfield in some places reaches 450. The rope was secured to a large stone. Deputy The leader climbs a rocky section and attaches a rope to a large stone for the group to move across the snowfield. The leader hits the steps when moving through the snowfield. Participants climb the steps using a handrail with a self-belaying grip knot.
After leaving the first snowfield, a scree area appears on the right, along which movement is possible. We move along it 15 m, bypassing the snowfield and reaching a rocky-talus area. This is where the group gathers because... The scree is quite mobile, the slope is dangerous for rockfalls. It is likely that stones will hit the lower participants who are climbing the snowfield. Therefore, we gather a group over the first snowfield. We continue moving up along small and medium scree. The length of this section is 200 m, the steepness is 300. Traces of a descent path are visible on the shallow scree, but it is inconvenient to climb it.
We go out to the second snowfield. It also takes up the entire pass takeoff from the rocks on the left to the rocks on the right. It’s easier to move along it than on the rocks, so we go out again onto the snowfield. Its steepness is 300, its length is 100m. We pass the second snowfield without railings, the first one hits the steps. Self-belaying is carried out with an alpenstock or an ice ax. The second snowfield leads to a pass saddle. It is long, as you can see from the map. This pass is also called the Dragon's Gap. The pass saddle is a fairly long gap, 400m long. The pass saddle is clogged with snow in places.
From the pass we go straight down. The pass takeoff on this side is a rocky scree slope, covered with medium, and in places small, scree. In its middle part there is a snowfield, which can easily be walked around on the right along the way. The length of the slope is 300-350m, the steepness is 300. The descent takes one transition (25 minutes). Already from the descent we saw a lake below, where we plan to stop for a snack. After 2 transitions we descend to it at 16.20. It's starting to rain. We pull up the awning. While passing through the pass, the rain started and stopped several times. After a snack, we move 3 times along the moraine along the stream on the right bank. The moraine is composed of medium-sized stones. There is no path. We go to the border of the forest and the valley of the M. Belaya River.
The descent to the river passes through crooked woods, which we cross in 10 minutes. We ford across the river. The ford is not difficult, the depth is 20-30 cm. A huge number of mosquitoes happily greet us at the river. After the crossing, we go 100 meters deeper into the forest and come out onto a very well-traveled path leading to the circus of the Western, Eastern Petrilius and Ramsay passes. We immediately meet a children's group cheerfully walking to Ramsay at 21.00. evenings. We go up 200m along the trail, find a very good place to spend the night and set up camp. There is sufficient firewood in the forest, because... This is no longer crooked forest. Water from M. Belaya. Rain again. Time 21.00.
waterfall on the Tulyok river
July 24.
Ninth walking day.
Valley of the Malaya Belaya River - Western Petrelius Pass (n/k, 846) - valley of the Petrelius River. Radial access to the base.
Overnight at an altitude of 600m.
Elevation gain -446 m.
Height drop - 246 m.
Kilometers - 21.6 km, counting 10.8 km (to the lake).
CHV -3 hours 15 minutes (to the lake).
July 25.
Day. Return from the PSS base.
Part of the group returns from the base along a route already known to it, bringing food.
Days spent in a camp near the Eagle Pass due to bad weather conditions. Visibility from 50 to 150 m.
July 28th.
Tenth walking day.
The upper reaches of the Petrelius River - approach to the Eagle Pass (1B, 1105).
There was no overnight stay at altitude.
Elevation gain -100 m.
Height drop - 0 m.
Mileage -1.5 km.
CHW - 1 hour.
July 29.
Eleventh walking day.
Eagle Pass (1B, 1105) - valley of the Malaya Belaya River.
Overnight at an altitude of 300 m.
Elevation gain - 405m.
Height drop - 480 m.
Kilometers -9.6 km.
CHHV - ascent to the pass 3 hours 40 minutes + descent to the sites 1 hour + descent to the valley. Malaya Belaya 1 hour 20 minutes = 6 hours.
We put on systems, prepare ropes, gripping knots, carabiners, and put on crampons. There are only three pairs of cats, so they are dressed by the deputy. a leader who will go first and hang the railings, and two participants. The leader walks second along the railing and hits the steps, sometimes with boots, sometimes working with an ice ax. Participants climb the railings with a self-belay with a gripping knot, wearing mittens, and a helmet on their head.
A pass takeoff 400m long, steep 300-45?, snowy, in places rocky and scree. The entire bottom is not visible.
Along the middle scree we approach the snowfield. The scree, as if with a tongue, wedges itself into the snowfield. Its length is 100m, its steepness is 30?.
Our ropes are two 40 m each, two 30 m each. The deputy goes first. leader. This is the strongest and most experienced participant. He wears crampons, with a self-belay with an ice ax and a self-release along the railing. They are attached to the station on an ice ax.
We fasten the first rope on the rock with a loop, on the right as we go. By the way, there is already someone’s noose on it. But we hang ours.
From the snowfield we go out to the right along the path to a rocky scree area with a steepness of 35? - 40?, and gather a group. Since everyone comes up one at a time, this process takes about 30 minutes. Fog blows in from time to time. Strong wind, drizzle. There is a small patch free of snow where you can sit a group. In order not to freeze, we cover ourselves with an awning. While we are waiting, we hang a third rope 30 m long. Again with an ice axe. We don’t hang the fourth one right away, since everyone will need to gather in that place while waiting for the ropes from below. Until the last of the 14 people pass the previous railing and bring it back. And in that place on the snowfield there is nowhere to sit. There is no shelter from the piercing wind with rocks. In addition, almost everyone’s feet are already wet from the snow. Therefore, we gather the group here, after the second rope, and not after the fourth.
After the last participants arrive with ropes and ice axes, we begin the upward movement again. We pass along the already completed 3rd railings of 30 m, then 2 ropes of 40 m and another 30 m. We fasten everything with ice axes, they go in up to the head.
We find ourselves across the width, in the middle part of the snowfield. All equipment is used. On the rocks to the right you can see a place where you can gather the group again. We point a horizontal railing from a 10 m loop towards the rocks to the right and go out onto a rocky scree area ().
We walk along the rocks (steepness 30?) 70 m to a small open area and gather a group. We cover ourselves with an awning. We don’t go further up until all the participants have arrived, so as not to shower the lower participants with stones. Since the rocks are wet, the stones do not stick to them. If not for this circumstance, it would have been possible to climb even higher by 100 m. There is a grotto in the rock, a shelter in which you can gather a group. We no longer hang groups of ropes from the place of the second collection. We walk along the rocks, along the border of the snowfield, 100 m past this grotto and come out again onto the snowfield with a steepness of 20?. The first one hits the steps. We walk 70 m like this with a self-belay with an ice ax and go out to the pass saddle.
July 30.
Twelfth walking day.
Valley of the Malaya Belaya River - st. Khibiny - st. Apatity.
Overnight at an altitude of 160 m.
Elevation gain - 0 m.
Height drop - 140 m
Kilometers - 7.2 km.
CHW - 2 hours.
Get up at 10.00. At this place, where the road crosses the river from the right bank to the left, the river spills into two branches, going around the island. The Malaya Belaya River can easily be forded at this point. First one sleeve, then the other. But part of the group does not want to get their “wandering” shoes wet, so we decide to cross the river. In addition, one participant is sick. It is not advisable for him to wet his feet in cold water. They took almost everything from the patient’s backpack.
We begin organizing the crossing at 11.20. From the island to the other side. There are trees both here and there.
We cross ourselves, backpacks separately (). At 12.10 the whole group is on the other side. It takes 10 minutes to collect equipment, and at 12.20 we leave along the road to the west, to the Khibiny station.
The road goes through a mixed forest. We walk three passages of 40 minutes each and reach the first country houses of the village near the Khibiny station. Since today is Sunday, we meet mushroom pickers, from whom we learn that today it is better to leave by bus at 17.00. in Apatity. In general, it runs on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays at 15.00 and 17.00. The fare is 34 rubles 80 kopecks. The work train runs on weekdays; it arrives in Imandra at 17.00. But it often happens to him that he is late; it can take 3 or 4 hours to travel from Imandra to Apatity.
8. Conclusions and recommendations
Selecting an area and route line
When choosing the area and hiking route, we were guided by the following considerations. The area should not be very remote and not very difficult, because... the group has three inexperienced members. At the same time, the route should have interesting passes for more experienced participants. Since the area is not new to us, we had to look for difficult passes where the main part of the group was not. Place them on the route thread, taking into account the organization of transfers. As a result, we passed little-visited passes in the Khibiny Mountains. These are Southern Lyavochorr (Vysoky (1A, 1125)), Takhtarvumchorr (1B, 1093), Orliny (1B, 1105).
We set ourselves the goal of clarifying the name and location of some passes. During the hike, we found out that the Vysoky pass (1A, 1125) is the South Lyavochorr pass. Located in the southern part of the Lyavochorr mountain massif.
The estimated location of the Krutoy Pass (1B, 1030) was photographed from both sides () and marked on the route map of the Orliny Pass (1B, 1105).
Due to bad weather conditions, we lost time waiting under the Eagle Pass and did not visit the Fersman Pass.
Crossing the Eagle Pass was the culmination of the entire trip. It turned out to be the most difficult in terms of weather conditions and from a technical point of view, but also the most interesting and memorable. The time to complete the pass can be reduced if you go through it in teams and if each participant has cats. But to Khibiny, few people take cats with them for each participant, because... Snow passes are still not typical for this area.
Interesting objects
The hiking area is known as one of the largest in the world for the extraction of apatite and other minerals, from which many useful things and objects can be made. For example, facing tiles, glasses, cups and much more that surrounds us in everyday life. And the extraction of ore in quarries itself is technologically interesting. You can learn about all this at the Mineralogical Museum in Kirovsk.
The history of the development of the area is connected with exploration work, which is reflected in the names of the passes in honor of the geologists who worked in the area. For example: Ramsay, Petrelius, Arsenyev. There is a memorial plaque at Ramsay Pass. On the road to Lake Maly Vudyavr there is a monument made of brickwork on the site of the first research station for the study of Khibiny at Moscow State University under the leadership of Academician A.E. Fersman. She continued to work even during the Great Patriotic War.
Unique is the Polar Alpine Botanical Garden in an area of 23 km. This is one of the highest botanical gardens in the world. We definitely recommend everyone to visit there. The Botanical Garden offers visitors a number of excursions: to the Tropical Greenhouse, “Introduction of Plants and Greening of Polar Cities,” “Ecological Trail, Geographers,” which introduces the altitudinal zonation of the vegetation cover of the Khibiny Mountains.
The most favorable time to visit this area is late July - early August. At this time, blueberries, blueberries, and many mushrooms ripen. And already the mosquitoes and midges have subsided.
We caught the beginning of the ripening of the berries, although if we had gone later, we would have been able to eat them only at the beginning and end of the hike, because... the rest of the time they were above the forest line.
Everyone had a mosquito net and mosquito repellent spray with them. It should be noted that there are significantly fewer mosquitoes above the forest line.
Performed by Olkhovskaya I.G.
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SOURCE OF MATERIAL AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
http://www.khibiny.net
http://skazmurman.narod.ru/
http://www.hibiny.com
M. M. Prishvin “Khibiny Mountains”
Fersman A.E. Travels for the stone. - M.: Publishing House of the USSR Academy of Sciences, 1960.
Petition to the Minister of Natural Resources and Environment of the Russian Federation S.E. Donskoy: Prevent the resumption of the conflict in the Khibiny Mountains
Features of passing the Khibiny passes in winter
Classifier of obstacles in sports tourism. Khibiny Tundra of the Kola Peninsula. List of passes. Arsenin Pass.
"Tourist travels around the Kola Peninsula", O. Slavinsky, V. Tsarenkov, FiS Publishing House, 1965.
Mysteries of the Kola Peninsula
Wikipedia website
http://www.photosight.ru/
http://www.skitalets.ru/mountain/2007/khibiny_olkhovskaya06/