One of the informational reasons for our visit to the North Caucasus was the ascent to the Marukh Pass and the putting in order of the mass graves of Soviet soldiers who died during the war. But our plans were not destined to come true, the reason for this was Aksaut - a stormy, high-water, mountain river flowing along the northern slope of the Main Range of the Greater Caucasus. After the third attempt to overcome it, we retreated. What happened this weekend in the Aksaut Gorge, see below the cut.

1. Our adventures began even earlier, during an inspection of the daily regulation pool of the Zelenchukskaya HPP-PSPP. Vitalik Ragulin slipped and twisted his ankle and we had to leave a couple of hours later than planned. The x-ray showed that there was nothing wrong and everything would be fine in a couple of days. After lunch we hit the road.

2. The road to the Aksaut Gorge takes almost 5 hours off-road. Only UAZs and Nivas can withstand this test. We were driving a UAZ. Behind the wheel is Murad, a master of driving on mountain roads. He managed to slow down before every bump. Thank him for the careful delivery of our bodies!

3. When making short stops along the way, according to Caucasian tradition, you need to pour. It doesn’t matter what - lemonade or vodka, but be sure to pour it. By the way, the lemonade from the Circassian plant that we drank is very reminiscent of the Soviet one, the taste of which is familiar from my childhood.

4. It’s getting dark, a light fog rises over the river, more than half the way remains to the place.

5. This is what this multi-kilometer path looks like.

6. Extended areas of the Marukha and Aksauta valleys are occupied by livestock farms and small settlements. In one of them, we tried to drag a Hyundai minibus up the hill, which could not do it on its own, but, alas, we also failed. Our UAZ also skidded on the wet grass.

7. We covered the last section of the path in complete darkness. At the base camp, new acquaintances with the RusHydro teams from the Karachay-Cherkess Branch and the Cascade of the Kuban Hydroelectric Power Stations, a laid table and Caucasian toasts awaited us. We didn’t sit for a long time, since the next day we were scheduled to get up at 4 o’clock in the morning.

8. The first rays of the sun found us at the Aksaut River, where we were waiting for a timber truck to cross the mountain river.

9. This region is the most high-mountainous region of the Western Caucasus, stretching to Elbrus, beginning with a section of the Main Range, to which the gorges of Marukha, Aksauta and Chkhalty adjoin.

10. The small mountain river in the gorge turned out to be insurmountable for us. We stood on boards specially laid on the frame of the arriving KAMAZ, and, holding on to the cables, slowly began to cross the river.

11. That was not the case. KAMAZ rests its wheel on a stone and stands in the middle of the river. The driver turns off the engine so as not to suck in water. Water is at our feet too. The cabin where the ladies were put is also full of water and they have to squat on the seats. Now we need to be saved. There was no danger to our lives, but it’s still not very pleasant to stand in the middle of the river with instantly wet shoes.

12. Those who stood on the lowest places of the frame moved to the roof. But one of us had to undress, climb into the icy water and run for help.

13. The tractor that arrived an hour later began the “rescue operation.” Attempts to push the KAMAZ forward were unsuccessful, and then the tracked monster of the Kharkov plant T-75, easily crossing the river, caught us from behind.

14. There were several attempts to move the KAMAZ in different directions and now, after some time, we were “saved.”

15. After some time, KAMAZ was finally saved. I thought that it would never go anywhere again, but to my surprise they dried it out, changed the oil and air filter, and after lunch it started up and drove off. Hurray for KAMAZ, its driver and tractor driver T-75!!! Thank you! You can see our extreme crossing in detail.

So that no one says that “If you don’t know the ford, don’t poke your nose into the water,” I’ll say that timber trucks constantly cross the river in this place. The stone that was on the way was most likely brought here at night by the waves of a stormy river. By the way, I would never have thought that the force of water could move a KAMAZ, but while we were standing in the river, the car was moved by the waves almost a meter until it finally got stuck in the rocky bottom.

16. The second attempt to cross the Aksaut River was made on an inflatable boat, but it also failed. The boat broke away from the tensioned cable, capsized and floated downstream. A few meters later she was washed out onto a stone island and was “saved” by the same T-75 :).

17. UAZ, in which we arrived at the gorge. Behind the forest in the middle of the picture, the ascent to the Khalega pass (3027 m) begins along the Aksaut tributary of the same name. But the river clearly won’t let us go there.

18. The third attempt to cross the river was along a boardwalk located 2 km from the camp, but it also ended up under water. After three failures, we decided not to risk it and went to the camp to dry off and have breakfast.

19. After sleeping for a couple of hours, we Ivan Let's go see the local sights.

20. The purest mountain stream flowing into Aksaut.

21. Suddenly the sun came out. It turned out that I shot this landscape in rain, cloudy weather and under bright sun.

22. Beauty!

23. Butterfly spotting :).

24. Entrance to the Marukh Gorge, inaccessible to us because of the river.

25. Another beauty. Majestically!

26. The last village on Aksaut - Rudnichy - is now practically abandoned. A border outpost is located here, because the border with Abkhazia is less than a kilometer away.

27. It looks like a bathhouse.

28. Destroyed underground storage facility.

29. A little more beauty :) and off to camp.

30. Our saviors were also invited to dinner. They are in black in the center of the photo.

31. Doctor bandages sick :).

32. And so it happens:). Just kidding, we're having fun while walking.

33. Rain and sun. You can't see it in the picture, but it's raining heavily.

34. Khasaut glacier from which the Aksaut river originates.

35. One of the peaks of the Main Caucasus Range. That day we went to bed early, as we were tired, but in our sleep we listened to songs :) performed by Caucasian performers, heard from Niva by one of those present. I was most fascinated by “Black Eyes” :).

36. And in the morning there was sun.

37. But it’s time for us to pack up and go to the airport. The journey took almost the whole day.

38. The parking lot should remain the same as it was before us.

39. Our UAZ is ready.

40. We made several stops along the way,

41. Why is it always beautiful weather when you have to leave?

42. Monument to those deported in 1943 on the site of the village "Krasny-Karachay". Of the 1696 people deported, 1005 died. The losses were too great:(.

43. I have never seen horses grazing freely before.

So our trip is over. In a few hours we will board the plane and late in the evening we will be in Moscow. In the following reports I will show you very interesting and unusual hydroelectric power stations located on mountain rivers. Until recently, I didn’t even imagine that water for a hydroelectric power station turbine could travel for several kilometers through huge pipes and siphons, but more on that next time.

In conclusion, I would like to say THANK YOU to all the organizers of this trip,

Aksaut River

The length of the rafting is about 75 km; duration - 4-5 days; III category of complexity; seasonality - April-September; Rafting equipment - kayaks, inflatable boats, rafts, catamarans. The Aksaut River originates from the large Aksaut glacier, located on the Main Caucasus Ridge. Rafting usually starts from the village of Aksaut, where you can drive up from the village of Zelenchukskaya by passing car (by regular bus you can only get to the village of Khasaut-Grecheskoye). In the area of ​​the village, the river flows in a wide valley covered with mixed forest. Here it is divided by pebble islands into several small but fast foaming branches. After 2 km, all the channels merge into one channel 10-15 m wide, and the first Aksaut rapid, 300-400 m long, begins. At the end of it there is a steep 1.5-meter discharge.

Beyond the hanging bridge after the rapids, the river again spreads widely throughout the valley for 3-4 km, then the channel narrows and a second rapid appears in it. 100 m below the threshold there is a canyon about 2 km long. A relatively calm 700-meter section separates the canyon from a steeply falling 1 km section with a cascade of difficult rapids that end behind the bridge over Aksaut. This entire 8-kilometer section below the mouth of the Khalega River, which has a slope of about 18 m/km, needs to be carefully reconnoitered. Below the bridge, a calm section of the river begins, which stretches almost to a dairy farm 3-4 km above the village of Krasny Karachay. Behind the Aksaut farm, it flows in one channel, its slope increases, and a series of complex rapids are formed, requiring detailed exploration, alternating with rifts and, less often, short sections of rapids.

About 7 km below Krasny Karachay, the road turns to the left bank, and behind the bridge, perhaps the most dangerous rapids of the river begin. 200 m below the bridge is the first, which stretches for about 2 km and is separated by a reach from the second “explosive” threshold. In the area of ​​the “explosive” threshold, huge boulders dam the river, forming a stormy discharge. Beyond the threshold, Aksaut, already narrow, is even more compressed by the low steep walls of a simple (about 300 m long) canyon, where there are single stones and steps with short drop-offs. Below the canyon, the rapids are more isolated and short, separated by long sections of rapids where it is easy to land on the shore. The gorge here is remote and wooded. In front of the village of Khasaut-Grechesky, on the way of the watermen, there is a second “explosive” rapid: the river here is almost completely blocked by stones.

Behind the forestry, Aksaut spreads widely with channels, winding among the banks overgrown with willow trees, so when the water is low, it is recommended to end the hike in Khasaut-Grechesky. In deep water, the rafting can be continued for another 20 km - to the village of Kardonikskaya, from where you can take a regular bus to Cherkessk.

The Aksaut camp site is located on the territory of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, 2 kilometers from the village of Krasny Karachay. Surrounded by picturesque mountains, the Aksaut River flows nearby. There are trout in the river. At a distance of about three kilometers from the base, with local residents, you can arrange a ride through the surrounding mountains on horseback. There are many beautiful places in the surrounding area: barberry meadow, waterfalls, passes. There are a lot of raspberries, strawberries, and mushrooms in the area. Currently, the base has a canteen building, a bathhouse, two- and five-bed houses. The houses have stoves, mattresses, pillows and blankets. Extra bed linen is available. In the evening the lights are turned on for several hours. A gas stove, kitchenware and fire pits are at your disposal.

REGISTRATION OF DOCUMENTS: To relax at the Aksaut Campground, you must conclude an agreement and receive an order for resettlement at the MBU DOOC "Grenada", which you provide to the guard for resettlement. The cost of living is 200 rubles per day, for students of educational institutions in Nevinnomyssk - 150 rubles per day, children under 5 years old - free. Since the base is located in the border zone, it is necessary to take care of obtaining the appropriate passes from the Border Guard Department of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic. If you plan to travel along difficult routes, you must undergo notification registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic. The list of the group indicates: full name, place of work (study), address, series and number of the passport, where, when and by whom it was issued.

DIRECTIONS: Since there are twenty kilometers of very bad road in front of the base, the trip must be carried out in cars like “Niva”, “UAZ” or buses like “Kavz”, “Paz”. The total distance from the city of Nevinnomyssk to the base is 160 km.

From Nevinnomyssk we drive towards the city of Cherkessk, passing two traffic police posts, after descending, before the village of Adil-Khalk, turn right. We drive along the main road to the village of Psauche-Dakhe, where we turn left to Khabez. After crossing the river there will be a roundabout - turn right. Having passed Khabez, we continue moving in the direction of the village of Kardonikskaya. In the village of Kardonikskaya, in the market area, turn right to the forestry. The village of Kardonikskaya is the last point where you can buy something in the store. From Kardonikskaya the road goes to the village of Khasaut-Grechesky and through it to the Aksaut forestry. After the forestry, after 7 kilometers you pass the tourist town of Kishket, then a winding road along the bank of the Aksaut River will lead to the almost abandoned village of Krasny Karachay. After crossing the bridge there will be a fork in the road, you need to turn left and go down the hill again to the left. After driving through the clearing, you will see the houses of the Aksaut camp site. Practice shows that travel to the village of Khasaut Grechesky takes 2 hours (115 km on asphalt) and from Khasaut Grechesky to the base, depending on the class and cross-country ability of the vehicle, from 1.5 to 2.5 hours (45 km off-road).

EQUIPMENT: The mountains have their own microclimate, so in the morning there is very heavy dew and it can suddenly rain. Be sure to take with you a raincoat and waterproof shoes (rubber boots or mountain boots), a supply of socks, including warm ones, and spare shoes. It is cold in the evenings, so warm clothes (sweater, jacket, hat) are required. For sleep, it is advisable to wear warm pajamas (or something similar), a warm blanket and bedding. If you want to go for a walk in the surrounding mountains, take care of appropriate shoes.

NUTRITION: food can be cooked over a fire (in specially equipped places) or on a gas stove. Water for drinking and cooking can be collected from a mountain spring near the base. Firewood can be collected near the base. Bring with you pots or saucepans, plates, cups, spoons, and knives. Don't forget matches and old newspapers to make starting a fire easier. Take food products based on preferences and number of meals.

Travel area map.

AXOUT

In the Aksauta valley there is a small settlement of cattle breeders Krasny Karachay and a half-abandoned village. Aksaut, founded by geologists (locals better know it as Rudnichny), has dairy farms in the summer. There are many tourists in the gorge. Along the rivers Kichi-Teberda and Ullu-Marka, the right tributaries of Aksaut, you can go to the passes to Teberda and Dombay. There are paths to the hanging valleys on the left slope, where the shepherds stand. From there there are easy, although high, passes to the Marukha Valley.

Aksaut originates from the large glaciers of the GKH in an area where the average height exceeds 3500 m. Glaciers, including one of the longest in the West. Caucasus l. Jalau-Chat is quite accessible and can be visited by novice tourists with the presence of an experienced leader. Climbing snow-ice passes and peaks of the GKH is attractive for sports groups.

The river breaks out of the mountains near the station. Kardonikskaya, through which the highway from Cherkessk to Zelenchukskaya passes. The turn to the road up Aksaut is located near the Kardonikskaya bus station. A bus runs along this road several times a day from the station. Zelenchukskaya in the village. Hasout-Greek (less than 20 km). Then you need to hitch a ride about 25 km to the shepherd village of Krasny Karachay, which serves as the starting point for routes along Aksaut. Opposite the village. Khasaut-Grechesky the portal of the tunnel is visible, the construction of which began in the Soviet years. It was intended to transfer water from Zelenchuk to Kuban. The spurs of the Forward Range approach the village.

Aksaut flows out onto spacious pebbles from a wooded gorge. Road to the village Red Karachay is laid along the bottom of a deep gorge and pressed against the river by steep slopes covered with dense deciduous forest. Occasionally, the valley widens slightly, giving way to clearings where foresters have installed benches for rest. A few kilometers from the village. Khasaug-Grechesky, at the “Wet Glade”, the road to the Yesen pastures branches off across the bridge to the left side. Gradually the forest thins out, becoming mixed (there are also artificial pine plantations), and above you can see meadows, monotonous stripes of scree, and rock ridges. At 9 km in the Kyshkyt tract there is a rest camp.

The valleys that cross the Front Range are evidence that its uplift began no earlier than the uplift of the Main Range. The rate at which the flow, originating on the main watershed, bites into the underlying rocks increases with the overall rise of the system (as the slope increases) and turns out to be faster than the average erosion of the Front Range massifs. As a result, deep (and steep-walled in morphologically young bottom parts) gorges and canyons in hard rocks are developed. The longitudinal profile of the valley also changes over time: steep, intensely incised drops slowly move upward. The strength of the river was always enough to ensure that sawing through the gap proceeded faster than raising the ridge, so that dams did not form.

Even in dry weather, the water in Aksaut is muddy. During rains, the river erodes banks, islands, carries trees, and layers of turf. The sound of moving stones can be heard. The material for this conveyor, which distributes sediments, is supplied by alluvial fans of numerous tributaries. Several times the road, with short ups and downs, moves away from the river for a short time. The last kilometers before Krasny Karachay it goes through an open valley, in the middle of which farms, sheds, and sheds are scattered. The village is located at an altitude of 1500m at the 4th confluence of the Aksaut river. Ullu-Marka. There is a cheese factory, and farms are scattered in the surrounding area, which are visited by a milk truck every day. There is no post office, the nearest one is in the village. Hasaut-Greek.

M4. The village of Krasny Karachay - village. Aksaut - l. Aksaut (29 km, road, trail).

From the village Red Karachay, up the left bank of Aksaut there is a road to the former village of geologists. Behind the village there is a branch of the MBU DOOC "Grenada" Tourist base "Aksaut" in the summer, a tent camp is organized at the base for schoolchildren in the city of Nevinnomyssk. The wide floodplain of the river is occupied by meadows, groves, the sides of the gorge are covered with forests. A chain of dairy farms stretches along the road. The valley is cool, blown by winds from the glaciers.

Eight kilometers from the village. Red Karachay with a spacious, crimson clearing from blooming thistles with groups of pines and birches, the jagged rocky ridge of the Kara-Kaya mountain (3893 m) is visible for the first time. From the farm behind the clearing the ascent begins (through the burnt area) to the lane. Kyzyl-Aush to the Marukha valley. We soon pass a stone gate between low walls with embrasures. On the cast slab there is the inscription: “Memorial complex. Defense Path"

This is the first of the monuments erected in the mid-80s. on the way through the Marukh Pass, where heavy fighting took place in 1942.

The last farm is 0.5 km from the monument. On the slope above it, in a strip of bushes, the trace of a powerful avalanche is visible. At a time when the road to Rudnichny operated year-round, avalanches that threatened it were shot down with cannons.

We cross the river. Viper, flowing from a wooded gorge, along which there is a path to the pass of the same name to Marukh. From the clearing near the bridge, the Aksaut rocky massif (3910 m) with glaciers closed the Aksaut valley, and to the left of it was the dark pyramid of Mal. Aksauta.

12 km from the village the road crosses a bridge to the right bank of Aksaut and rises to an uneven clearing bordered by birches, aspens, and spreading beeches. There are rare pine trees near the river. From here you can see the peaks of Aksaut and Kara-Kaya. Next we go to a mixed forest, where there are a lot of strawberries and mushrooms. After 8-9 km from the bridge, the road leads to the village, located among pine trees at an altitude of approximately 1900 m, 0.5 km from the confluence of the Aksaut river. Kichi-Teberda. In the massif of the city of Kichi-Teberda, overlooking the entrance to this valley, tungsten ore was mined for about 30 years. Nowadays, several houses in Rudnichny are occupied by border guards and rescuers.

Along the river Kichi-Teberda lies the way to the lane. Khuty to Teberda and to the passes 73 and Kichi-Teberda to Dombay. Just above the village, the trona descends from the lane to Aksaut. S. Kara-Kaya from the Marukha gorge.

Behind the village the road forks. One turns into the Kichi-Teberda valley, from where it climbs to adits on the slope of the mountain of the same name. The other, less fortified initially and now quickly collapsing, crosses the river. Kichi-Teberda, above which, in the forest, a waterfall thunders, and continues on the rocky floodplain in the direction of the right slope visible ahead of the wooded cape.

Along the riverbed there are noticeable stone ridges piled up by bulldozers to prevent the river from reaching buildings and the road. Pine trees have strengthened on the protected part of the floodplain. However, the forest on the left bank is dying, as floods carrying stones have begun to inundate it more often. On a hot July day, the air above the hot pebbles is infused with cloves. But the snows of the Main Range are close. Ahead, in the green alignment, a pile of icy rocks of Aksaut has grown, to the left rises the dark tip of Mal. Aksauta and the pockmarked snow-covered wall

Jalau-Chat town (3884 m). The Aksaut glacier is already visible.

There is a mighty fir forest on the cape. In the shade of old trees covered with lichens it is always humid, and there are dark puddles on the stones. A road was made in the forest to a gallery, the dump of which was visible 100 m above the floodplain. The trunks and roots of fir trees near the road were damaged. Meanwhile, any wounds, even due to breaking off branches, cause rot in Caucasian fir as a non-resin-producing species. A forest with a large proportion of injured trees is doomed.

Behind the cape of the river Aksaut receives the turbulent flow of Jalau-Chat. Just below the confluence there is a thick log thrown across the river. On the pine-covered hillock on the left bank are traces of old overnight camps. A few hundred meters up the river. Jalau-Chat, where it breaks out of the canyon, there is a bridge with railings. Before this bridge, the path to the lane goes up into the fir forest. Alibek.

There are about 4 km left to the Aksaut glacier (2-3 hours walk). There are trails on both banks of Aksaut; at the end of summer, the right bank is safer, because there may not be a snow bridge across the stream flowing into Aksaut on the left just before the Aksaut glacier.

Beyond the crossing of Jalau-Chat the forest becomes smaller - this is due to the proximity to the glacier. A little higher Aksaut is compressed by a gorge, and the shore becomes impassable due to thickets of birch trees. It is better to overcome them further from the river. At the exit from the bush, foresters installed a pillar - this is the southern border of the forest in the Aksauta gorge. There are still about 2 km to the glacier along the rocks along the river. In the south its icefall is clearly visible, hiding the crest of the lane behind it. Aksaut. The tongue of the glacier is strewn with stones, but the very end (about 2200 m) is clear - a smooth ice slope. From time to time, stones slide off the slope - this is how the final moraine is deposited. On the flat right moraine overgrown with willows you can bivouac.

In front of the tongue of the Aksaut glacier, a stream flowing into Aksaut from the west from a narrow gorge between the Kara-Kaya (on the right for the observer) and Brattsy massifs flows into Aksaut. Zap. Aksaut, which is about 2 km away. Previously, this glacier was connected to the Aksaut glacier, as evidenced by the high ridge of the lateral moraine left on the left bank of the stream. To West We make our way along the right bank of the Aksaut glacier. After 1.5 hours of significant ascent we reach a steep tongue (2400 m). Having climbed the glacier, we walk along it for about an hour before turning south, behind which a wide snowy pen opens. Zap. Aksaut (it leads to the Karach River - the left tributary of the South Marukh).

All around are the lifeless rocks of the peaks of Kara-Kaya, Brattsy, Marukh-Bashi. The noise of the river does not reach here, the silence is broken only by the roar of ice avalanches from Marukh-Kaya. To see the mountains awaken from their icy torpor, it’s worth spending a night here. There are sites on the left moraine under the l. Yu. Karakaisky, falling from the saddle between Kara-Kaya and Marukh-Bashi.

M5. River valley Aksaut - l. Jalau-Chat (trail, 1 day).

The Jalau-Chat River originates from one of the largest glaciers in the West. Caucasus, which can be reached by using the path around the canyon leading to the lane. Alibek.

You can get to the trail by turning into the forest from the last bend of the road from the cape to the adit (M4), near the gas holder. The overgrown trail rises above the canyon into a fir forest, then into a mixed forest. Only after gaining a few hundred meters of height and entering the crooked forest zone does she briefly approach the edge of the gorge. The beginning of the canyon, the walls of which are smoothed into “ram’s foreheads,” and the snow fields of the glacier are visible. The trail continues to climb through beech trees, birch, rowan and rhododendron bushes. It is very steep in places - a muddy chute straight up. This is a feature of hiking trails; shepherd trails are lighter, with zigzags.

Finally we get out onto the meadow shoulder above the cliff, where we can rest. A path branches off to the left, traversing the slope of Kichi-Teberda near the border of the bushes and leading to the mine adits. It would be possible from the village. Aksaut go up to the adits along the road and go out to the canyon along this path (this is what they do more often now). Now the tongue of the glacier is clearly visible (it seems that we are almost on the same level with it) and the upper cirque, torn by cracks, above which the snow-capped peak of Jalau-Chat has grown. There is little left to the place from where you can turn towards the glacier.

The trail climbs onto a gentle meadow with a stream and a paddock (sheep are grazed) in a hollow between the long grassy slope of Kichi-Teberda and the short rock-talus spur of Sulahat (3409 m), which is now visible in the east. To the north of this peak, ahead along the ravine, the snowy saddle of the lane is visible. Sulahat, leading to the valley of the river. Alibek, in Dombay. Even further north there is another pass to Dombay - Alibeksky, now hidden by the slope of the city of Kichi-Teberda. Its saddle with a characteristic “horn” rock can be seen by rising to the mentioned spur of the town of Sulahat. Alibek Pass is very popular, and in the ravine where we climbed (2400 m), people often stop for rest or overnight. This place is called the "Green Hotel".

Up to l. Jalau Chat (now we are at its level) remains 1.5-2 km. To get there, you need to go around the spur of Sulahat. A simple, slightly descending path along old “ram’s foreheads” overgrown with grass and small bushes leads to a flat sandy field in front of the glacier tongue (2310 m). If you go higher, crossing unstable screes (several hundred meters), you come straight to the glacier. In the lower reaches its surface is flat, and it is easy to advance to the middle of the glacial cirque.

With each step, the panorama of the surrounding peaks unfolds wider. Above the belt of “ram’s foreheads” and the hanging glaciers of the left slope (for the observer on the right) rise the steep walls of the Aksauta massif. In the south, behind the icefall, the snow-rock hump of Jalau-Chat rises. A depression in the snow ridge next to it, noted by rare “teeth” gendarmes - lane. Fog.

The broken ridge of the buttress holding the icefall on the starboard side leads to the top of Sunakhet. To the north of this peak, above the strip of “ram’s foreheads,” lies a gentle glacier of the same name (there are bivouac areas in front of it). It’s easy to climb up the glacier to the lane. Jalau-Chat (in Dombay). On the contrary, in the northern ridge of Aksaut, the saddle of the lane is visible. Lower Aksaut (3000 m, 1 A), leading to the l. Aksaut, and the snow-talus couloir below it. On one of the median moraines or on the mentioned areas on top of the “foreheads” (in front of Sunakhet Lake) you can camp for the night. Return along the ascent path.

MARUKH. AXOUT

The most high-mountainous region of the Western Caucasus, stretching to Elbrus, begins with a section of the Main Range, to which the gorges of Marukha, Aksauta and Chkhalty adjoin. On this 20-kilometer stretch, three peaks have a height of more than 3800 m. The northern side bears significant glaciation (about 3.5 sq. km on Marukha, more than 17 sq. km on Aksaut), including large valley glaciers. On a steep slope that drops 2 km to the river. Chkhalta southern slope glaciers (except for Yu. Marukhsky) are cirque, hanging.

Of the ridges extending to the north, the highest is Teberda (up to 3758 m). It separates the Aksaut valley from the Teberda basin. The ridge is strongly dissected, in the axial part it has young alpine forms and many glaciers. The Mysty-Bashi ridge, separating the Aksauta and Marukha gorges, is calmer and almost without glaciation. Partially smoothed out, acquires mature morphological forms and the watershed between Marukha and Zelenchuk - ridge. Uzhum.

Cool, thanks to the winds blowing through the gap of the Marukh Pass and from the vast glaciers, the valleys of Marukh and Aksauta are covered with coniferous, mainly pine, and mixed forests. True, these forests suffered greatly from intensive grazing and logging. The damp, warm Chkhalta gorge is completely covered with fir and beech forests. The southern, inaccessible slope of the GKH in some places retains its primitive state; Shepherding here, as in the distant past, affects only small islands.

There are roads along the gorges, but on Marukha there are villages only at the bottom. On Aksaut, the last village (now almost abandoned) is located in the upper reaches. Extended areas of the Marukha and Aksauta valleys are occupied by livestock farms.

Through the GKH in this area there is only one low and simple lane. Marukh, now closed to tourists. The rest - snow and ice - may be of interest for one-way ascents of sports groups. The meridional ridges are accessible in many places, and there are trails to a number of passes.

MARUKHI GORGE

The Marukha gorge, 60 km long, leads to one of the simplest passes known in ancient times through the GKH - lane. Marukh. In the Middle Ages, the “Silk Road” ran through it from Sogd (Central Asia) to Byzantium. And later this trail remained one of the most important communications in the mountains, although in some periods the conditions on the pass turned out to be harsh. So, in the middle of the 19th century. two battalions of Russian troops, heading from the Kuban line to Sukhum, encountered a lot of snow on Marukha in early August. It is known, however, that in 1877, during the Russian-Turkish War, a detachment of General P. D. Babich passed through this pass. In the fall of 1942, the Nazis tried to break through to Transcaucasia through Marukh, as well as through other relatively accessible passes; the front stopped on its southern slope.

Passing the lane Marukh is suitable for a group of beginners under the guidance of an experienced instructor. In the post-war decades, hundreds of tourist groups crossed it annually (mostly from north to south, to Abkhazia). Now we will limit ourselves to describing the path only to the foot of the pass. Let us note one feature: the route for a considerable distance passes along a ridge with a height of about 2000 m (the watershed of Marukh and Zelenchuk), thanks to which the traveler opens up distant panoramas of the foothills, which, perhaps, in the West. They are not found anywhere else in the Caucasus. True, the price for this is a lot of physical activity already on the first day of walking.

M1. Village Marukha - ridge. Uzhum - Marukha gorge - l. Marukh (55 km, road, trail, 4-5 days).

Starting point - p. Marukha, located at an altitude of about 1000 m on the left bank of the river. Marukh is 10-12 km from the highway that passes through the villages of Kardonikskaya and Zelenchukskaya. On the way from Cherkessk, not reaching 3 km to the station. Zelenchukskaya, the turn to the village is clearly visible along the long row of poplars; A local bus runs there from the village. There is a border post in Maruja. Border guard posts control the entire gorge.

The southern edge of the village abuts the end of the watershed ridge. Uzhum, separating Marukh from the neighboring Zelenchuk valley. The road to the mountains (a continuation of the one that stretches along the village) rises to the watershed, goes around the gorge in the middle reaches of the river and after 25 km descends into the valley to farms near pastures.

The further path to the pass (about 30 km) goes through the valley along the road and trail. At the very end of the gorge, before the pass, lies the Marukh glacier. The approach to the glacier will take 3-4 days, of which one, or rather two, will be movement along the ridge. Uzhum and descent into the valley (climb about 1100 m, descent 650 m). Excursion to the glacier - another day. From the upper reaches of Marukh it is also possible to reach the Zelenchuk (Arkhyz) and Aksaut valleys.

Climbing the ridge Uzhum begins immediately behind the village along a shale slope in a sparse forest. Pears, cherries, rosehip bushes grow along the road, and in spring there are white bird cherry caps everywhere. 150 m above Marukha, a wide, hilly plain opens up to the eye, gradually sloping to the west, where the valley of the Vodyanoy stream is visible among the wooded ridges. Near the road there are fields and cultivated meadows, sections of which are separated by tree-covered ramparts made of stones and uprooted stumps.

4 km from the village, to the left of the road there is a farm. From here you can see the next section of the climb to the ridge. A landmark indicating the height to be climbed is a grassy peak above the forest, which is about 6 km away along a serpentine road with a climb of almost 700 m.

The road goes through a shady beech forest, crossing pine trees only once. At the upper border of the forest there is a narrow belt of birch trees. As you climb, a wonderful panorama opens up. Far to the north, the cliffs of the Rocky Range appear in the haze. Below you can see the widely spread station. Zelenchukskaya, and closer to the stadium-like oval of the RATAN-600 radio telescope of the Special Astrophysical Observatory (SAO) of the Russian Academy of Sciences stands out.

The winding ridge that rises imperceptibly to the south, onto which the road climbs, has slight gentle peaks, on some of them there are triangulation signs. The track goes around these peaks, either from the west or from the east, while pictures of the Zelenchuksky and Marukhsky gorges alternately open up. Both slopes are dissected by numerous steep valleys, which originate 100-300 m from the ridge. Below they are densely overgrown with bushes and forest. In some places, pine trees, hiding from the wind behind slopes, approach the road itself.

Koshes are placed on a wide strip of meadows; the veins of the paths connecting them are visible, which are laid at the edge of the forest. Some koshas have branches of the road. If the group decides to spend the night on the ridge, they should descend to the level of the cats. Near them you can find (though not at all times of the year) a stream or spring. There is no water near the road; it goes between sloping layers of shale. For storage Uzhum and Marukh valleys are characterized by strong winds, so the koshes are often destroyed.

The panorama of the mountains changes with every kilometer. Behind the deep gorge of Marukha, the mountain range, rich in pastures, grows higher and higher. Mysty-Bashi, further on you can see the peaks of the Teberdinsky ridge. Peaks of the ridge appear above the forest-filled Zelenchuk valley. Abishira-Ahuba. The northern peak of the rocky massif Kara-Bek (with snow in May) is approaching ahead. The road will turn off the ridge just short of reaching it.

From the next turn to the southwest, a silvery dome suddenly appears. This is the building of the optical reflecting telescope BTA (Big Azimuth Telescope) SAO, one of the largest in the world (mirror diameter 6 m). The observatory is located at an altitude of 2070 m on the meadow shoulder of the town of Pastukhova, which belongs to the ridge. Uzhum. Although the distance is about 8 km, pavilions of smaller instruments are also visible - the air here is so transparent. Far below, at the bottom of the Zelenchuk Gorge, the movement of cars on the highway is visible.

19 km from the village the road bifurcates. The main one, well-trodden, turns sharply to the left and descends into the Marukha gorge. The other goes along the ridge, on which the remains of houses are visible about 1 km away. There in the 60s. There was an observatory where, in particular, the state of the atmosphere was studied in connection with the construction of a large telescope. In April - early May, there may still be patches of snow on the way to these destroyed buildings.

Behind the ruins, the road continues for about 2 km along the ridge (until the depression in front of the town of Maly Karabek, where the kosh stands; from here one path runs down into the Marukha valley, the other traverses the mountain from the east), then turns to the right and, rounding the beginning of a deep ravine, descends to the observatory (about 7 km from the fork in the road). There the highway begins, descending into the Zelenchuk valley, in the village. Bukovo near Nizhny Arkhyz. It’s 17 km along the highway to the village (the drop in height is about 900 m), there is also a path that cuts off serpentines.

Let's return to the main road. She dives between rocks covered with pine trees into a meadow tract with a stream, at the source of which (to the left of the road) a kosh is visible. On the lower edge of a gently sloping meadow, near the forest border, there is a comfortable place to rest. Further, the steepness increases, the road winds serpentinely through a mixed forest and finally runs out onto the shore of Marukha (5 km from the fork on the ridge).

Upstream you can see a treeless basin several kilometers long, closed by the slope of the Karabek massif. There are several farms scattered along the river, and the road heads there. In the Marukha Valley, cattle are grazed, a cheese factory operates from May to September, and milk tankers run. The rest of the time there are no people in the gorge. The reason is the danger of avalanches, signs of which can be seen throughout the valley.

While descending on the opposite slope, a narrow treeless terrace was visible, into which long corridors descend, like into a funnel. Snow accumulating there can be dumped into the valley, as evidenced by the wide strip of crooked forest; pine trees survived only on the protruding rocks. A remarkable detail: in the middle of the terrace there is a cattle pen built, so that to an inexperienced person the place will seem safe and inhabited. In fact, it is such only in the summer, before the autumn snowfalls.

Behind the last farm in the basin the road crosses a bridge to the right bank. In front of the farm, large stones are carried from the slope to the river, and behind it ends a long couloir that cuts Karabek from the ridge to the foot. The buildings are protected from avalanches by cliffs covered with old pine trees. On the hill behind the bridge there is an obelisk to Soviet soldiers who died in battles with the Germans on August 28 - September 2, 1942. The path goes through groves of pine, birch, and beech. Large piles of stones overgrown with bushes and trees attract attention. Local residents believe that these are traces of an ancient village.

The road crosses a wide alluvial fan and damp alder and 4 km from the bridge leads to a separate farm. Almost before reaching it, on the left bank, where the bridge is thrown, in the buttress of the town of Karabek approaching the river, 2 niches are visible 150 m above the water. These are adits where copper ore was mined in the early Middle Ages. It is not difficult to climb there along a wide grassy shelf (the remnant of an ancient road). Before the entrance to the deeper northern branch, about 10 m long, there lies a multi-ton boulder, the result of a collapse. By the light of a lantern, one can discern traces of pickle in the greenish rock on the rounded arch (the rocks surrounding the cave owe their red color to lichen).

1 km above the farm, the valley is blocked by a ridge covered with forest. A waterfall roars in a short gorge. In front of it, under the pine trees on a flat bank, is a comfortable, cool place to rest, where shepherds often stop. To get around the ridge, the road climbs onto a slope where there are houses with red tiled roofs - a cheese factory.

Above the waterfall, the character of the gorge changes: the slopes part, and rare groves stretch along the river. Immediately behind the rocky ridge, the bottom of the valley is flat and swampy (there was once a lake in this place). The road hugs the side and only after 1.5 km returns to the river, to the next bridge. Here you can see a path that, climbing the left slope through a sparse pine forest, goes to the lane. Ozerny to Arkhyz.

On the right bank, where there are many convenient places to stop, just above the bridge the path to the lane begins. Kyzyl-Aush in the Aksauta gorge; she climbs up a forested sediment fan. The upper cirque of the pass with the rocky peak of Kyzyl-Aush-Duppur (3426 m) is clearly visible from the open left bank, where the road passes. 2 km from the bridge it passes a farm, then another, crosses a scattering of large stones, rises up a slope and enters the forest.

The valley narrows again. The steep slopes are covered with forest and have many avalanche stripes. At the beginning of summer, some couloirs are still clogged with snow. Over the course of 2 km, the road crosses several such combs. It can be seen that avalanches do not always adhere to crooked forests, where they are frequent. Snow masses break both tall aspen and birch trees, and the maturity of such a forest only indicates the relative rarity and hidden nature of especially large avalanches. The latter even cling to the edges of “prosperous” old pine forests.

The road zigzags down to another bridge spanning the gap. Marukh, compressed to several meters, beats at a depth of 15 msg. Further on, the valley for 0.5 km is strewn with boulders, among which bent birch trees grow. In May there is snow here, brought from the left slope. Areas that are cleared of snow late are characterized by a delay in the development of grass stand and changes in its species composition. Such deviations are noticeable in color photographs of valleys taken at the height of summer, on which one of the methods for identifying avalanche areas is based.

A kilometer from the gorge there is another, last, bridge. A bivouac is possible on the terrace in front of it. Up the river there is a pile of stones and trunks; The mudflow originates in the starboard side couloir. The road leads into a rare pine forest on the left slope. After a couple of kilometers the forest parted and the road ended at the last farm.

The upper reaches of the gorge opened up to the lane. Marukh. Ahead, for 6 km, stretches a flat, swampy valley, in the middle of which a river winds. Further above the dark ledge one can see the mounds of “ram’s foreheads”, the wide saddle of the pass and behind it the sharp rocky peak of Marukh-Bashi (3805 m). There are 12 km left to the glacier at the foot of the pass (the path along the valley was the same) with a gain of 500 m in height.

In the marshy area, the path hugs the forested right slope, the bridge to which is located at the edge of the gently sloping meadow near the farm. Halfway along the plain, near the path, there is a stone shepherds' house, and at the end of it, in a birch grove, there are dry places to rest. There is a small lake under the left side. Kara-Kol, its excavation was carved out by avalanches, the paths of which are highlighted by birch trees.

The rocky ledge that closes the plain, covered with pine trees, is cut through by a deep 40-meter Bear's Mouth canyon, in which a waterfall roars, hitting a niche under the left cheek. The right bank path climbs onto a ledge in the forest next to the gorge.

On top of the gorge, the nearby slopes form a shallow basin; in the middle of the meadow, in the bend of the river, a snow gauge is installed. Further on there are gentle terraces (under snow in the spring) leading to a layer of old “ram’s foreheads” left by the retreating glacier. There are no trees at the bottom of the trough valley, but bushes and pine trees continue for a long time along the right slope. To the upper terrace (but essentially, these are gentle “foreheads”) the Tegey-Chat stream falls from this slope from the kar under the lane. Khalega (from the Aksauta gorge, M8).

From the left slope a ridge juts into the terrace, along which you can climb to the lane. Bugoy-Chat, leading to Kizgych. The main trail climbs along the “foreheads” (the stream has cut a deep channel into them), colored with spots of rhododendron, juniper and in some places covered with snow even in summer. Near the snow, tundra plants grow green - lingonberries and haddock. The ascent leads to the right moraine next to the slope. On the contrary, across the river, under the rocks of the pass saddle, on the “ram’s forehead” hillock closest to the glacier, you can see a spacious area (about 2500 m), where the glaciologists’ house stood for many years.

As measurements have shown, a 2-3-meter layer accumulates on the surface of the glacier per year, in terms of water, approximately the same losses due to melting and evaporation. The balance, which fluctuates greatly from year to year, is negative on average, and the glacier is currently shrinking; its tongue is retreating at a rate of about 15 m per year. The melting intensity would be higher if it were not for summer snowfalls, which, while increasing the reflection of solar radiation, reduce it by 1.5-2 times.

This glacier is characterized by the accumulation of blizzard snow brought from the southern slopes of the ridge: in the wind shadow under the walls of the Kara-Kaya peak, multi-meter snowdrifts blow up during the winter. Ice is formed from firn, whose humidity in summer is 6-8%. Only 1/5 of this water drains (besides the visible streams there are internal channels and water lubrication on the bed), the rest is retained in the pores, capillaries and freezes in winter. Gradually condensing, firn turns into ice over a dozen years.

Continuing the ascent along the path laid along the moraine ridge, we reach the level of the middle flow of the glacier (about 2700 m), which was closed in the first half of summer. You can stop in a “pocket” behind the moraine, where there are flat places protected from the wind. The glacier's surroundings are now visible.

The panorama is dominated by the steep-walled Kara-Kaya massif (3893 m), under which is the glacier feeding area, the most elevated. The northern jagged ridge of the main peak falls to the North saddle visible in the east. Karakay pass (to the Aksaut valley, MZ), to the left of which rises the rounded Red Mountain, named after the color of the rocks and screes. Even further to the left, in the ridge extending from Krasnaya Mountain (the beginning of the Oboronyny ridge, along which we walked along the moraine), the saddle of the pass of the same name leading to the valley of the river is visible. Khaleg, the left tributary of Aksaut.

The main ridge rises behind the glacier in the south and southwest. A wide snow field rises from the glacier to the depression closest to the town of Kara-Kaya in the ridge. This is the lane. Zap. Karakaysky. Like the lane. Marukh, he leads to the l. Yu. Marukh, but not on the tongue - to the beginning of the trail along the river gorge. South Marukh, and to the upper fields above the impassable icefall. The lane itself Marukh (2748 m) is visible to the right.

The pass plateau breaks into the valley as a strip of rocks. Their steepness is less at the eastern edge opposite the end of the glacier, where the rocks form a weakly defined buttress extended towards the glacier, to which a snowfield adjoins on the left (at the end of summer there is a scree). At the top of the buttress, at the edge of the plateau, there is an obelisk that serves as a landmark. The path to the pass (exit from the snowfield) ran along the grassy shelves of the buttress.

In the summer of 1942, on the approaches to the lane. There were battles with the Nazis along Marukh and other accessible passes in the Main Range. In August, the Germans managed to capture the Klukhor Pass. The command of the Transcaucasian Front decided to strike in the Kpukhor area, sending units of the 808th and 810th rifle regiments through Marukh to the enemy's rear. On the Marukh Glacier, the column came under devastating fire from the Germans, who managed to occupy the surrounding heights. Few made it through. The Germans occupied the pass, the front line was established in the Yu. Marukha gorge near the Azyrt waterfall. The fighting continued until mid-winter.

Aksaut is one of the most abundant rivers flowing through the territory of Karachay-Cherkessia. It originates from the glacier of the same name and merges with the Marukha River 75 kilometers from the source, forming the Maly Zelenchuk River.

Aksaut flows through a valley stretching from south to north between the high mountain ranges of Mysty-Bashi and Aksaut. This ridge in some areas bears different names: Gitche-Teberdinsky, Ak, Baduksky, Khadzhibeysky, Kynyr-Chat, Gidamsky and others. But in general, this complex knot of mountain ranges, dissected by valleys and gorges, can be called Aksaut-Teberda. In its system there are passes: Alibek, Gitche-Teberda, Seventy-three, Khuty, Baduk, Muhu, etc.

There are a large number of lakes on the Mysty-Bashi ridge, but many of them are little known.

The upper reaches of the valley are closed by a chain of high rocky peaks: Kara-Kaya (3896 m), Aksaut (3910 m), Maly

Dzhalovchat (3,600 m), Dzhalovchat (3,870 m), etc. The huge massif of Aksauta rises above all the surrounding peaks and ridges.

About 50 tributaries flow into the Aksaut River. The most water-rich of them are: Dzhalovchat, Gitche-Teberda, Khalega, Khadyuka, Bolshaya Marka.

The Aksaut Valley is rich in forests that occupy the slopes of the ridges from their foot to the subalpine meadows. Above the mouth of Khadyuki, the bottom of the valley is also covered with forest. In the upper reaches of Aksaut, in amazing proximity to glaciers, an area of ​​old fir forest has been preserved. This small island of coniferous forest makes an unusual impression with its wildness and pristine pristineness. It seems that you are not in a forest, but in an underwater kingdom: long strands of lichen move barely noticeably, like algae. Even the wind doesn't penetrate here. Complete silence, only Jalovchat makes a dull noise in the canyon. Local forests add special charm to the Aksaut landscapes, strikingly contrasting with the snow patches scattered along the slopes of rocky peaks and glaciers.

There are many predatory animals and wild animals in the forests: bear, deer, wild boar, wolf, forest cat, lynx, marten and others.

The climate of the Aksaut valley is typical of mountain valleys. It depends on the altitude above sea level, position among mountain ranges, the degree of dissected relief, the proximity of the Main Caucasus Range and the penetration of moist masses of sea air from the southwest. In general, the climate of the upper reaches of the valley is not much different from the climate of Dombay, and in the area of ​​​​the village of Krasny Karachay it is the same as in Teberda. But in winter there is more snow here, since this area is located at an altitude of 1560 meters above sea level, i.e. 260 meters higher than Teberda,

The natural conditions of the Aksaut valley are so rich and varied that it is of great interest not only for tourists, but also for climbers.

The upper reaches of the valley are a kind of mountaineering “neighbourhood”. Here you can climb routes from 1 to 5 categories of difficulty.

A dirt road leads through the Aksaut valley, which starts from the village of Kardonikskaya. Along the way, 18 kilometers later, in a picturesque area is the village of Khasaut-Grechesky. Behind it, 25 kilometers later, at the mouth of the Bolshaya Marka is the village of Red Karachay, which is the starting point for hikes from the Aksaut valley. Tourist routes leading from Arkhyz to Teberda and from Teberda to Arkhyz converge here. Through the village there is a path to the upper reaches of Aksaut and further through passes to the valleys of Marukha, Alibek, to Dombay, to lakes Badukskie, Kynyr-Chat and Khalega, to the waterfalls Khadyuka, Ullu-Chuchkhur and other places of interest.

The abundance of tourist routes, the wealth and beauty of nature create exceptionally favorable conditions for mountain travel in the Aksaut Valley and place it among the best tourist areas of Stavropol.

ROUTES FROM AKSAUT VALLEY

Lake Kynyr-Chat

The path to the rarely visited Lake Kynyr-Chat begins from the eastern outskirts of the village of Red Karachay. Beyond the village, the trail immediately deepens into the forest and leads higher and higher, skirting the rocky massif of Mount Kynyr-Chat from the north.

Having crossed one of its spurs, the trail leads to the Gidam tract to the Igdy stream, which originates from Lake Kynyr-Chat, which means “crooked hollow”. Then the path goes upstream of the stream. As you climb, the view of the Aksaut valley opens up more and more,

Soon there is a small nameless lake, into which the Igdy stream flows and then flows out.

Lake Kynyr-Chat, like a precious stone, is hidden in the frame of high mountains. Calm, reliably protected from the winds by the semi-ring of rocky spurs of Kynyr-Chat, whose peak rises 3,540 meters above sea level, it appears unexpectedly.

Kynir-Chat lies at an altitude of more than 2,900 meters above sea level. The surrounding landscape is harsh, but it will captivate your eyes with its grandeur and beauty for a long time. Lake Kynyr-Chat deserves to become popular among tourists, despite some distance from the main tourist areas - Teberda and Arkhyz.

One day is enough for an excursion to the lake from the village of Krasny Karachay.

Ullu-Chuchkhur

About 12 kilometers from the village of Krasny Karachay, along the Aksaut valley, the road turns to the right bank and leads through the forest. Soon, behind the bridge, a large clearing opens. 3 and after a few kilometers there is a second one, called Byshlak-Tapha, which means “cheese shelf”. From here it's about an hour's walk to the waterfall.

The third clearing at the mouth of Gitche-Teberda lies at an altitude of 1,680 meters above sea level. Previously, there was a small village called Rudnichny. Already from here you can hear the sound of the waterfall, but from the village of Krasny Karachay to the mouth of Gitche-Teberda the path is not close. It's time to take care of your overnight stay; you can admire the waterfall later.

There are many waterfalls in the mountains, but Ullu-Chuchkhur is special, unlike the others. It has its own, unique beauty, its own “symphony” of noise, its own charm. The water is cold as ice, clean, surprisingly transparent, like in the Teberda River. That’s why the river is called Gitche-Teberda, that is, little Teberda.

From steep multi-meter cliffs, from ledge to ledge, with noise and roar, a river, high in summer, falls, forming a waterfall of rare beauty. At its confluence, the water, white with foam, boils and rumbles and, having escaped from the bubbling cauldron, either furiously attacks the shores, or with the full power of the wave attacks the underwater rocks, raising splashes.

Rocks, pine trees and a waterfall bluish-white with foam fit surprisingly harmoniously into the surrounding landscape.

It is interesting to walk at least a little along the path leading to the Gitche-Teberdy valley, from where a wonderful view of the rocky pyramid opens up - the majestic peak of Kara-Kai.

From Aksaut to Dombay

We are already familiar with the path to the Rudnichnaya clearing at the mouth of Gitche-Teberda along the Ullu-Chuchkhur route (88). From the clearing, a good path leads in zigzags into the valley of the Gitche-Teberda River. Along the way, from one of the turns you can see a waterfall. Behind the forest zone, in the upper reaches of the valley, rises a low ridge with two passes: Gitche-Teberdy and to the left Seventy-three, through which you can go to the Alibek valley.

After an hour and a half of walking, Gitche-Teberda gradually turns to the left. In the upper reaches of the valley on the left, the rocky peak of Bolshaya Marka (3,768 m) opens up, dominating the surrounding ridges. A ridge strewn with “gendarmes” extends from it to the east and connects with the Semyonov-Bashi spur. Now you need to focus on the rocky peak, rounded at the top, in such a way as to reach its right slope, which drops steeply to the Khuty Pass. Gitche-Teberda remains on the left, and the path lies first along the terraces, then along stone rubble.

The Khuty Pass is a depression in a rocky ridge in the form of a wide crevice. From here you can admire the beautiful valleys of the Khuty and Gonachkhir rivers for a long time. On the left you can see a small glacier and the impregnable wall of Semenov-Bashi.

The descent from the pass is quite steep, but the trail is visible. Sticking to the rocks (on the left), you need to go down a long ravine (in the first half of summer there is still snow in it), then along an old moraine overgrown with twisted birch trees. The rock outcrops located along the descent route must be walked around to the right. The path leading down the valley is overgrown in places. The Khuty Valley is one of the wildest corners of the Teberda Nature Reserve. Tourists visit it occasionally, so you can see wild animals here; deer, chamois, aurochs, and even a bear.

The gentle, tireless path through the valley soon gives way to a steep descent. The trail leads to the Amanauz River at the mouth of Khuty. From here to Dombay it’s no more than an hour’s walk.

From Aksaut to Dombay the journey takes 8-10 hours.

From Aksaut to Alibek

Two routes can be proposed: the first is through Alibek, the second is through the Seventy Three Pass. The last, little-known pass becomes more difficult in the second half of summer when a small but rather steep glacier is exposed from under the snow. Alibek Pass, on the contrary, becomes easier in the second half of summer. From the village of Krasny Karachay to the Rudnichnaya clearing, at the mouth of Gitche-Teberda, the path is already familiar from previous routes.

Having crossed Gitche-Teberda along the masonry or, if it is not preserved, ford, you need to walk along the edge of the forest to a small clearing with traces of fires. Here, look for an overgrown path that leads out of the forest area and up a steep slope with rich meadow vegetation.

Then the path continues to the right along the old path to a small clearing on which huge blocks of rocks lie. This is the so-called “Green Hotel”. From here you need to go up the river, then along the moraines, past the lake and waterfall. In the upper part, behind a rather steep rise, a red-brown “gendarme” appears. To the left of it is the Alibek pass. There is snow on the saddle all summer.

The descent from the pass is quite steep at first. In the first half of summer it is still snowy. Having descended a little, it is better to go diagonally to the left, choosing more sloping places. The trail begins below. In the valley it connects with a trail leading to the Alibek glacier, most frequently visited by tourists.

The further path does not require description. Everything is clear here. Beyond the clearing is the Alibek climbing camp, with a road leading from it.

From the upper reaches of Aksaut to the Alibek valley, the transition takes 8-10 hours.

Khalega Pass

From the village of Krasny Karachay the path leads up the valley. About 12 kilometers away, at the bridge over Aksaut, a path branches off from the road and goes along the left bank. At the Khalegi River you need to take a well-defined path that turns to the right, to the pass of the same name, located on the Mysty-Bashi ridge. Higher up it deviates towards a small scree and soon leads to a saddle.

Beyond the stream, a short climb ends in a wide alpine valley. At the shed, the path crosses the scree and leads out to the first terrace. From here you can see the rocky pyramid of Kara-Kai. Behind the first terrace is the second. Behind the stream, the cold, gloomy Lake Khalega soon opens, near which, at a low altitude, stands the Obelisk of Glory in memory of those who gave their lives in battles during the defense of the Marukh Pass. There are dilapidated dugouts near the lake, rusty shells, mines, and shell casings are lying around.

From the lake to the pass it is a 30-40 minute walk.

Kara-Kaya seems even more formidable from here. Marukh-Bashi looks majestic and gloomy. But especially interesting is the Marukh Pass, covered in glory, visible from here in full view. The western slopes of the Mysty-Bashi ridge are clearly visible, where on August 28, 1942, the 810th Infantry Regiment met with the advance detachment of the Edelweiss Alpine Division and by the end of the day completely defeated it. Prisoners were taken and a lot of trophies were captured - equipment and food.

The 810th Regiment fought its way to the aid of its distant right neighbor, the 815th Infantry Regiment, which had been fighting heavy battles in the highlands of the Sukhumi Military Road for many days. Wanting to ease the situation of the defenders of the Klukhori Pass, the corps command ordered the 810th Regiment to cross the Khalega Pass, descend into the Aksauta Valley and then, in the Gonachkhir region, reach the Military-Sukhumi Road, where they would strike the enemy’s Klukhori group.

From that day on, almost without stopping for a single hour, a many-day fierce battle rumbled on the slopes of the Mysty-Bashi ridge... The mountain passes in this area are covered with the unfading glory of heroes who fought to the death and did not let the enemy pass in Transcaucasia. Their feat is commemorated by monuments at the Marukh Pass, in the village of Zelenchukskaya, near Karachaevsk and other places.

From the Khalega pass the trail leads to the Marukhi valley, from where you can go to the Marukhi pass or go down the valley and then continue through the Ozerny pass to Arkhyz,

To the Baduk Lakes

From the village of Krasny Karachay to the clearing at the mouth of the Malaya Marka, the path coincides with the route “From Arkhyz to Teberda” (70). Then it goes up the Bolshaya Marka valley. Above the forest zone, in a small pine grove, which is clearly visible from a distance, you can stop for the night. There will be no more firewood behind the grove. On the first day, the hike will take only 5-6 hours.

From the overnight stay, you should continue the journey to the confluence of the Aryu-Chat tributary into the Bolshaya Marka, then climb the first moraine terrace and cross the wetland. It is better to walk along the right bank of the river, past a small lake with rust-colored water and a rocky gate from which a powerful stream noisily bursts out. This area is easy to bypass on the right. Along the way, the blue Markinskoye Lake opens on the right.

The pass bridge is bounded on the right by the rocky ridge of the Big Mark, on the left by the massif of the Baduk Fingers peak. The path to the pass goes along a gentle scree slope (there is snow here until August). In the middle of the lintel on a high moraine ridge there is a stone pyramid of a tour.

The descent is somewhat more difficult. From the first terrace, which ends with rocks, you should go down a hollow reminiscent of an old riverbed. Below you can see a lake. They descend from the second terrace in the same way. Below, the hollow becomes deeper. The path is already visible here. It is clearly visible all the way to the Baduk Lakes.

The descent from the pass to the trail takes about 40 minutes. And from here it’s another two hours’ walk to the lakes, where there are convenient places to spend the night.

From Baduk Lakes to Teberda 16 kilometers. This route is only accessible to tourists with mountain travel experience and appropriate equipment.

May 2013

Once, when winter was almost over, and spring had not yet begun, my husband and I looked outside and realized that things would not go on like this. The third year without white water is unbearable. Moreover, the girl is already quite grown up, a year and a half already. Last summer we went kayaking a lot, so camping is nothing new to her, and the periodic absence of her parents is fully compensated by her grandparents. The last, most important question remains - whether there are still such white water lovers who will take their children with them to the Caucasus.

They interviewed relatives and friends, wrote advertisements on tourist forums, called and knocked wherever they could think of. For quite a long time, our idea teetered on the edge of impossibility. Either someone has problems with vacation, or the children are sick, or they want it, but so far it’s not possible. But in the end, everything worked out. The following went on the hike: the Maslov family (Zhenya (35), Ira (32), Sonya (11) and Ksyusha (7)), Natalie (34), the Yushchenko family (Anya (28), Shurik (31) and Alisa (1, 5)), as well as grandmother Olya and grandfather Borey.

Why the Caucasus? Everything is simple here: firstly, this is Russia, secondly, the region is quite densely populated, so that there are no problems with cars, roads, emergency rooms and communications, and thirdly, at the beginning of May it is already real summer here. Primroses and daffodils are blooming, during the day it’s +23, the sun is shining, but on the contrary, there are almost no mosquitoes. And with all this, there are short but interesting turbulent rivers, allowing you to set up a base camp and make daily trips to the water.

The first base camp was planned on the Teberda River, between the villages of Novaya Teberda and Verkhnyaya Teberda. The first to arrive at the scene, around noon on May 2, was Zhenya and his family. We found a beautiful clearing, set up a tent on it, lit a fire, and began to wait. On the third hour of waiting, the guys were glad that all the food and cans were in their car. When the group from the plane (Anya (that is, me), Shurik, Alisa and Natalie) arrived at the camp closer to seven in the evening, we were already happy about the availability of food, since a ready-made dinner and pleasant company were waiting for us.

For a complete set, all that remains is to wait for grandparents and a dog in the kung. Without them it would have been hard for us, because with them we had a catamaran, rafting equipment and Natasha’s tent. The fifteen hundred kilometers from Moscow to Teberda were not easy for them. On the way, they were slowed down by traffic jams, bridges under construction, unplanned detours and other man-made obstacles, so they reached the place after midnight, when everyone was already sleeping in tents. The gravel rustled under the wheels, the headlights cut through the night like a spotlight, the engine stalled, and the door slammed a couple of times as it closed. “Everything is in place,” I thought. - “You can go to sleep.” And fell asleep.

Everything was ready by lunchtime. The men secured the catamarans on the roof of a previously hired Gazelle and left their spas and helmets inside. Together with a support group we went up the river. Little Alice and her grandparents were left waiting for us at the camp. They promised to prepare lunch for the brave raftsmen and keep an eye on things. Two crews went out to the river: Shurik and I on Gosha-2, and Zhenya and Ira on Belraft-2tt, affectionately called “Umochka”. Initially, they wanted to inspect the large source of the Teberda - the Gonachkhir River for rafting on it, but during reconnaissance they found several trees blocking the channel, so we started almost from the arrow. We only had two hundred meters along Gonachkhir, but they were very pleasant. Good slope, lots of rocks in the riverbed, great slalom. For kayakers, it’s absolutely beautiful. The only negative is that the Gonachkhir flows through the territory of the Teberdinsky Nature Reserve, and rafting requires permission from the authorities. They also tried to stop our group, but we sailed away just like that, vowing that if we start from there again, we will bring permission.

Rafting below the Gonachkhir spit with Amanauz is not of interest, since the river breaks into many small channels. However, with a skillful choice of route, you can avoid dragging the skates over the stones. The robberies continue until the village. Teberda, in front of which the river gathers into one channel. Further on, the current becomes faster, and small barrels and jet disruptions occur. If you wish, you can bypass them all, but then what is the point of going to white water?

By seven o'clock in the evening the catamarans reached the village. Upper Teberda, where it was decided to finish the rafting. Dusk was beginning, and there was still at least half an hour left before the camp. We called a car by phone and made it home just in time for dinner. Happy children greeted us. They spent half a day throwing pebbles into the river and examining small aquatic life. Zhenya looked at the water, appreciated the efforts of the younger generation and complained that the river would soon become shallow.

The river evoked a lot of positive emotions, it was easy to walk, there were no crime spots, so the next day we decided to take our eldest girl for a walk. We drove the section from the bridge where we finished yesterday to the camp, first on our own, and then with Sonya. They found a spisik and a helmet for the girl, and attached supports. They even gave me a paddle. And we headed back to the bridge. Change of crews: today on Gosha - me and Natalie, on Umochka - Zhenya, Ira and Sonya. Forty minutes of rafting - and we are back in camp. The girl has a lot of impressions. We had lunch in anticipation of the Gai rapids, which defines the obstacles on this river. After the traditional siesta, playing with the dog and other outrages - back to the point. Sonya was left on the shore, but asked to meet us in Karachaevsk, at the Gai threshold with a car.

After Nizhnyaya Teberda, robberies began again, which continued right up to the village of Jingirik. The river gathers into one channel again just 700 meters before the Gai threshold, here you have to be careful. They conceived at the threshold and climbed out to have a look. Our photographers, Shurik and Sonya, as well as our permanent driver Roma, had been there for a long time. They managed to see enough of parallel groups, and herds of sheep and cows, which completely independently crossed the river along the suspension bridge in both directions.

The threshold was good: not difficult and quite spectacular. Foam, barrels, some unexpected teeth and a clean exit at the very end, making it easy to arrange a belay. Zhenya and Ira walked cleanly, along a pre-planned trajectory, and Natalie and I walked twice, but both times with telemark in the penultimate barrel.

The time was approaching evening, it was time to return to base and understand our plans for the next day. We drove around Teberda, there was nothing else interesting on it, and the thirst for adventure pushed us further - Aksaut with its canyons was also on the plan. In the interval, you could visit local waterfalls, look at ancient Christian churches from the times of the Alan Empire, or go to the Special Astrophysical Observatory in Nizhny Arkhyz. We turned this way and that, but still decided to stop by Dombay, one of the oldest ski and mountaineering base camps in Russia.

Dombay greeted us with sunshine and warmth. Is it really just one and a half thousand meters up - and there’s snow? Downstairs I couldn't believe it at all. We parked the cars on some slope, bought tickets for the lifts, picked up the children in our arms and boldly went into the “egg” - the first-line cabin. A slight acceleration - and the rocky slopes of Mount Musa floated below.

At the first station they sell woolen knitted items, but we are experienced people and insulated ourselves in advance. And now we put on our hats and mittens right on the lift. In total we climbed to a height of 3200m.

From the top there is a colorful panoramic view of the Greater Caucasus Range. You can see how streams originate from under the snow caps, the snow melts at the lower levels of the slopes, and among the dark slopes you can still spot unmelted traces of skiers. At the top station, instructors with a characteristic “spectacled” tan offer to teach a child how to turn on skis in just a couple of hours, and snowmobile drivers dash along the glacier with their passengers.

Good here! There’s just nothing to eat, we have to go down.

Below, a traditional souvenir market and a row of cafes along the main street awaited us. We settled in one of them. Okroshka, khychin, french fries, beef stroganoff and hot tap water - this is the breath of civilization. Only after leaving the cafe and approaching the cars did we realize that all this time our wheeled friends had been parked on the training slope. Over there, near the forest, you can see the supports of the children's ski lift, and opposite is a cafe with the characteristic name "At the splash pool." We smiled and moved on.

Initially, we wanted to stop by on the way to Aksaut to pick up some geocaching treasure, but due to lack of time, we decided to postpone this event until the way back.

Along Aksaut there is a dirt road of very relative quality. And although you can still drive along it quite quickly at the bottom, after Khasaut-Grechesky the speed had to be reduced to 10 km/h, the road is quite difficult. Only at half past seven in the evening we pulled into the parking lot between the Osypnaya and Krasny canyons. Dusk was quickly falling into the valley, so dinner was being prepared after dark.

On the morning of July 6th, Shurik, Natalie, Zhenya and Ira took their katas and went upstream. I wanted to walk the section from Krasny Karachay to the camp. There was plenty of time for this, as well as opportunities, so nothing stood in the way of the first run along the river.

The children stayed in the camp to collect mint, draw and read books. Alice didn’t feel well in the morning, her tummy hurt, so she huddled close to her mother and dozed with half an eye in her arms. Everything was under control. By lunchtime, firstly, the rafters were supposed to return, and secondly, the grandparents, who had gone on an excursion to the Northern Administrative District, would arrive in a kung. I kept the radio ready and listened to the broadcast. There is no cell phone service on Aksaut; the camp is set up behind the edge, so without a walkie-talkie, the kung could easily pass by without noticing. At about two o'clock the first call signs began to be heard, and soon the long-awaited car arrived. Just then the catamarans returned. Before sunset we had time to ride again, I replaced Ira on Belraft, and we covered the lower rafting section in two boats, from Krasny to Pore. Surprise. The section seemed quite simple to us, below K. Two Bridges you can even take children for rides.

A driver in a Gazelle was waiting for us just below Surprise. On such a road, the speed of the catamaran and the speed of the car are almost equal, so for part of the road he drove parallel to us, looking for a place to throw out. On the way back we stopped at the Kishket camp site and booked a bathhouse there for the next evening; I wanted to wash myself and wash the children.

As a result, Aksaut was practically studied in one day. All that remained was to go to the upper reaches and check if there was water in the upper canyons. In general, the highest point you can get to is the village of Rudnichny: several houses and a border post. There the road ends completely, and the river turns into a stream, oversized even for kayaks. But there was almost no hope that there would be water there. We decided to figure it out as we went along. On the morning of May 7, the rafting group got into the car and moved up. Above Krasny Karachai the road became even worse; occasionally one came across farms, hay meadows and freely grazing horses.

The gazelle slowly climbed the mountains.

We also met camps of other groups. Where there are kayakers, and where there are catamaran ones. The trees squeezed the road ever closer in their arms, the meadows gradually disappeared, but mossy boulders the size of a man began to appear and those small delicate flowers that grow only where you rarely see people.

We were approaching a section of the upper canyons.

At K. Gorbaty's everyone came out to explore, and at the same time stretch their legs. The river did not please us: there was not much water, the cat would often catch the bottom even with proper management, and in the middle of the riverbed lay a large log. It’s a pity, of course, but what can you do, it doesn’t happen year after year.

The gazelle turned around, and we began our descent back, below the robbery area, towards Krasny Karachay.

Before reaching two kilometers to the village, they launched the boats into the water. There was the yet unexplored Slalom Canyon and the rapids of the same name.

Right-left, left-right, “Where are you rowing?” We hit a rock twice, once only the correct roll and calmness saved us from the keel. Yes, Aksaut is more serious than Teberda, and much more. But it’s both more beautiful and more interesting. The Cornet threshold added a dent to our frame, and Shurik and I found a beautiful pebble in the Mustang. I wouldn't trade white water for anything. Here you can feel the coherence of the crew’s work, feel the shoulder of a teammate. And know for sure that under any circumstances they will provide assistance.

When closer to five we moored at a familiar clearing, they already began to worry about us. But what can you do - as the river carries us, so we go. Everyone was tired, but happy, and a hot lunch and the anticipation of a quick bath finally painted the world rosy.

At the Kishket camp site, it seems they forgot about us. We had to wait until the steam room was free to sit, steam, drink tea and, after a quick rinse in a cold shower, return to camp.

In the morning it became clear that Alisa’s condition had not improved, and Ksyukha also fell ill with the same symptoms. We need to decide whether to close the camp and take the children to the hospital, or leave it alone for a couple more days and watch the dynamics. Still, the girl didn’t get any worse.

In any case, the rafting is over. Shurik and Zhenya began to disassemble the catamarans, and Grandfather Borey and I went towards civilization, try to call doctors we knew, and seek advice.

When three independent specialists came up with the same prescription: stay hydrated, don’t force feed, and give rehydration, our future plans began to take shape. Buy medicine, give the children water, don’t go anywhere until at least tomorrow. That's what they did.

The next morning, May 9, the girls finally felt better, and the whole team, with the exception of Alice and me, who remained to guard the camp, went on an excursion to the waterfall to bury the treasure. When we go somewhere to travel, we try to take with us all sorts of small things for the treasure-cache of the Geocaching game. Usually we find other people's hiding places, but this time we decided to bury our own.

After late breakfast, we leisurely loaded into the car and drove to the trailhead landmark - the pedestrian bridge over Aksaut.

Having crossed the bridge, we turned right and went up the path, surrounded by ferns as tall as a man (well, Ksyushin).

The path to the waterfall goes up the stream, constantly moving from one bank to the other. This was done more so that people would not get bored on the road than out of necessity. Nevertheless, the team courageously moved over the pebbles from shore to shore. Vista crossed 20 times more than them, and in general, judging by the number of runs, she found a couple more unknown waterfalls in the area.

The trail is not difficult, at least in dry weather, and instead of the promised hour, the guys reached it in about 40 minutes. As they turned the next bend, they were surprised to find a waterfall. Tall, quite powerful, backlit by the sun, in general, I don’t want to take pictures.

Some people wanted to - and started taking photographs against the backdrop of the waterfall. Someone climbed higher up the scree on the side of the waterfall to find a place for the treasure. The least bothered ones (Zhenya and Sasha) climbed the highest, found a place and laid a geocaching treasure.

When we came down, we had a snack, and at the same time discussed the folk pastime of “throwing Vista into a waterfall” - Vista was thrown there twice, supposedly for cooling. It’s surprising that Vista didn’t run away from the owner who abandoned her, but joyfully galloped alongside her.

Sasha and Zhenya, apparently, weren’t completely fed up, so they decided to build a dam to raise the water level in the “bath” under the waterfall. After fifteen minutes of carrying stones, the dam was still not ready, but the line of stones increased greatly, and the guys finally got fed up!

After which everyone gathered and went back along the path. It’s easier to go down, so we went down quickly and without incident. In short, the waterfall (and the path to it) are worth a visit!

And in the evening, in the setting sun, the Maslovs in full force, Shurik, Natalie and I rushed to scout where the stone staircase goes, which starts right from the road a couple of hundred meters from the camp. If the child were still floppy and she was captured, the lift is easy and can be done by almost anyone. The whole question is the number of stops along the way.

At the top of the mountain, a Christian cross, shamanic ropes swaying in the wind, flowers and candles were waiting for us. In general, such a mixture of different religions is typical for these places. People here seem to be both Christians and Muslims, and they believe in spirits at the same time. Under the cross there is an icon, it is clear that the place is famous, prayed for, that it is often visited and kept in order. You can observe the panorama of the valley, dangling your feet into the abyss. Half a step - that's all. The edge is acutely felt here. Moreover, the icon and cross are dedicated to those who left before their time.

We descend already at dusk, from the foot of the stairs to the camp about ten minutes on foot.

In the morning we slowly got ready, threw our backpacks in the cars, wished each other a safe journey and went in different directions. Kung went to Moscow, taking with him his grandparents, as well as our tents, sleeping bags, catamaran and wetsuits, Qashqai and the Maslov family moved to Voronezh, and the rest headed to Minvody on Gazelle with a stop at the Shoanin temple.

Imagine, a stone temple has been standing on the mountain for a thousand years. And, judging by the state of the masonry, it will stand for as long. The walls and roof of the building were not renovated; they are the same as they were created by unknown builders in the 10th century, either Alans or Khazars. Services are still held in the temple. It's almost as if wild lions were herded into the Colosseum and gladiator fights were held. And all this antiquity does not frighten or suppress you, but calms you down. “Everything will pass,” she seems to say.

At the temple, we quickly examined the interior, Natalie and Shurik climbed the steep slope to the top of the mountain for a geocaching treasure, noted it in a notebook, and quickly moved to the car. There was little time to get to the plane on time.

The car didn’t let us down, and the roads didn’t let us down either; we still made it by the end of registration. Goodbye, Caucasus, thank you for giving us a piece of summer.

Anna Satovskaya