tourism News / 30.07.2022

What is ushba from Georgian. A story about the ascent to ushba along the route of Myshlyaev. Upcoming trips in Georgia

As I wrote in the photo review of the previous peak, Ushba is only formally the eighth in height. AND...
This terrible in its grandeur, most beautiful, formidable, impregnable, amazing and unforgettable,
charming and fantastic, two kilometers from the foot to the top of a granite boulder,
the most difficult peak of the Caucasus, grandiose to goosebumps ... Of course, You must see it with your own eyes, and the closer,
the better, the more goosebumps will be from the delight of the forces of nature, which created the Caucasus Range,
and including Ushba. This peak, the translation of whose name is (perhaps controversial, but appropriate)
from Svan - "Sabbath of Witches", excited the hearts of English climbers of the 19th century.
On the most difficult "mirrors" of its walls, the strongest climbers of the USSR climbed - Mikhail Kherginani
(a legend in itself), Lev Myshlyaev, Mikhail Anufrikov and many others...
Having gone through all my photo archives since 2002, I selected the best pictures of this Summit.

1. May (high in the mountains it is still winter). View from the slope of Elbrus. Only the top of Ushba peeks out from behind the clouds from somewhere far away behind the ridges. The whole wall is not visible, and there are few places where you can see it in its entirety...

2. August 2002. Beginning of dawn. View also from the slope of Elbrus. Most of Ushba is hidden (merging) with the Shkheld massif.

3. July 2006, dawn... View from the slope of Mount Kezgenbashi in the Irik Range. To the left of Ushba is Chatyn and Shchurovsky peak, to the right are the teeth of Shkhelda. And again, only the top of Ushba is visible, located entirely in Georgia, hidden by the Main Caucasian Range.

4. May 2008, 6x zoom view from the village of Elbrus in Kabardino-Balkaria. The two towers of Ushba are somewhere in an inaccessible height behind the ridges. On the right is one of the towers of the formidable Shkhelda.

5. August 2004. Taken from the slope of Elbrus to an ancient soap box. Above the sea of clouds, under the clouds illuminated by dawn, rises the Caucasian Range with Ushba at the head.

6. August 2003. View from the ascent to the Western peak of Elbrus. You can see dots of people going along the "path" to the Saddle, and in the distance, on the left, the two-horned Ushba.

7. August 2004. View from the Western summit of Elbrus. On the left - East, and in the distance - the peaks of the Bezengi region, mentioned earlier in the "rating",. And on the right - Ushba, like a huge "cat" with sharp "ears", peeking out of the clouds:

May 8, 2013 high mountains everything is covered in snow. Ushba "among friends" - Chatyn, Shchurovsky Peak, Shkhelda. The narrow Ushba icefall is visible, flowing down from the plateau near Malaya Ushba (not visible).

9. January 2006. As it often happens, especially in winter, a strong wind arose. Snow is blown off the crests of peaks. If you look closely at Ushba, especially its northern ridge, you can see what a terrible hurricane it is. Well, frost -20 to boot.

9a. Ushba from the Bodorku pass.

Now I propose to "warm up" a little, look at Ushba from the south, from Svaneti (Georgia).

10. The road along the Enguri valley to Svaneti is long, picturesque, but along the monotonous wooded Enguri gorge. But at the end, approaching the capital of Svaneti, Mestia, in front of the village of Dolra, the southern peak of Ushba opens up around the turn, hiding the northern one. This is a must see! For those who love mountains, this is the deepest positive shock forever...

11. July 2013, hike 4 class, view of Ushba from the upper reaches of the Kvish valley. So far (in this post) only the top of Ushba has been visible. And from this angle you can see the entire Western Wall. I have no words, epithets and talent to tell, describe what is seen in this photo. Yes, Elbrus is higher than Ushba, the Bezengi wall too, but here ... it’s impossible to convey. I hope the photo can convey what I wanted to say.

12. Ushba and Mazeri peak from the Kvish valley.

13. The same, view closer to the Kvish glacier, dawn clouds.

14. Another angle. August 2012. Southern and Northern peaks of Ushba, Gul glacier, from the Gulichal valley.

15. Photo with a large zoom from the lower reaches of Gulichaly. It rarely happens on the peaks of Ushba good weather even when it's sunny. Here, in this picture, the peaks are smoking with clouds - condensate near the ice cliffs of moist air from the Black Sea or the Atlantic.

16. July 2013. Descending from the Lekzyra Gates along the Mistiachala valley, you can suddenly see two giant snow-covered blocks of Ushba peaks behind the green ridge. A photo is just a picture. And when you see this "in real life", it takes your breath away, you look at it as something unreal. Grandiose granite blocks seem to soar in the sky among the clouds.

17. Another view from the Gulichal valley, August 2012. Two rock towers on the left are trying to repeat the contours of their neighbor. But where are they to Her!

18. View from the Enguri valley, Iprali community area, August 2014, 6x zoom, taken with a soapbox from a car window.

19. August 2014. Ushba from the horizon of Zuruldi in the Mestia region. Lucky with the weather!

20. Previous zoom view. South and North peaks of Ushba.

21. And finally. July 2013, Kvish Valley, Svaneti. At sunset, the clouds dissipated a little, lit up reddish, and created a simply fantastic extravaganza. This photo, although taken with a soap dish, was

Photos

Dedicated to my friends who died while climbing Ushba.

Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba

I look at old photographs. I see the stern faces of people who risked their lives for the sake of true friendship and a common, indivisible victory into small parts. And the common victory, like real friendship, knows neither state nor national differences and borders. Some of these people are no longer alive. But their departure is not shrouded in bashful evasions and vague omissions. Everything is clear and simple. They knew why and where they were going. And they knew what price they could pay. And they paid. Completely.

Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba This story began a long time ago, braided with intricate knots around the peak with a strange and disturbing name - Ushba. From time immemorial, this mountain hangs like a gloomy rock mass over the Svan village of Mestia, with its severe grandeur from an early age filling the hearts of the highlanders with courage and pride in their people. How this happens is a mystery, but maybe it doesn't matter how. The important thing is that a simple traveler who accidentally finds himself on a road that, cutting through a mountain slope, descends in loops to Mestia, even a person who is a stranger to these mountains feels a strange tension. And it is not difficult to determine its source - a strict, majestic peak, eerily regular in shape, the vertical base of which seems to rest on the very edge of the village, where the ancient Svan towers have been taking an example of proud impregnability from this mountain for almost a thousand years.

Ushba is a special mountain for Svaneti. Any man of this tiny mountainous country grows up with a deep sense of respect and awe before his most worthy personal test - Ushba. In the very appearance of this mountain lies a challenge to the courage of man. Unapproachable and majestic, Ushba all the time serves as a reminder that encourages the most courageous to act, the audacity of which does not fit into the scheme of everyday necessities. Without the slightest selfish interest, the Svans risk their lives for the sake of a pure, meaningless from the generally accepted point of view, but at a huge cost of a given victory - climbing to the top of Ushba. Svans do not go to Ushba for money or awards. There is no economic or hunting interest there. A one-of-a-kind fact, amazing, like the whole history of Svaneti - a small mountainous country, whose proud and free disposition nature itself expressed in the form of a Mountain.

Central Caucasus, Climbing Ushba There is no greater reason for pride and respect in Svaneti than climbing Ushba, a peak that seems inaccessible to a mortal. For this unique quality, I especially love and respect the Svan people.

For us, Russian climbers, who are accustomed to seeing Ushba from the other side, from the north, this mountain does not have such a metaphysical significance as for the inhabitants of Svaneti, but still, its appearance is eye-catching and intimidating. The majestic double-headed peak rightfully reigns over the entire line of the Caucasus Range. No doubt - before you is the Queen. The tallest. The most slender. And inaccessible.

None of the peaks of the Caucasus is covered with such a halo of legends, stories and dramatic facts as Ushba. This Mountain is a Legend, no less famous than the European symbol of mountaineering - the Matterhorn. In some ways, these two mountains are very similar, some strange internal similarity unites them.

Historically - the same parallel. There would be no such drama and self-sacrifice in the birth of mountaineering in the Alps, if not for the Matterhorn. And who knows how Soviet mountaineering would have developed if not for Ushba?!

For a dozen generations of climbers, Ushba has become the foundation of mastery, the criterion of maturity. On stories about the legendary ascents of Ushba, they brought up in young athletes respect and the desire to improve mountaineering skills. But not everyone was able to achieve the desired goal. The cruelty and deceit of Ushba were also part of the glory of this peak. Many lives have been lost here...

And, as usual, I hear this question - was it worth it?! Woe to relatives, grief to friends. For what?! Ice and stone, the madness of a powerful element... But those who accepted the challenge and withstood this duel will not hesitate to answer. It was worth it. What remains in the heart justifies that risk. Many times.

There are few values in the world that do not age. But since the first ascents of Ushba at the end of the 19th century, when Austrian climbers first climbed to uncharted heights the most difficult peaks Caucasus, and to the present day, when, at the risk of being behind bars for violating the state border and not even hoping for help in case of failure, climbers go on the most difficult routes - the price of the issue has not changed one iota - the game is definitely worth the candle.

Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba There are many beautiful routes on Ushba, among which there are no easy ones - only the strongest and most experienced climb this mountain. The names of the pioneers have also become a legend for a long time - Kokkin, Khergiani, Myshlyaev, Abalakov .... There was not a single athlete in the Union who crossed the master's line, who would not know the full depth of the meaning of this short word - Ushba. The Ushbists were especially respected, because they had a unique experience, which could only be obtained in a confrontation with the Queen of the Caucasus - Ushba. Even the categories of difficulty for routes to Ushba did not fall into the general framework of sports categories - athletes who did not have experience climbing routes of the same category were not allowed on the Ushba routes. Ushba has always been the most famous technical peak of the Caucasus in the country.

As you probably already understood, for me Ushba is not just a peak. From the very beginning of my acquaintance with the mountains, Ushba was the criterion by which the purity of aspirations, the strength of courage, and the inflexibility of the will are measured. This is the Top. I guess I'm a little swan in my heart. But after my first ascent of Ushba, I felt like a different person. And the success of our memorial ascent in 2002 is also largely based on a common understanding for all participants of the exceptional importance of Ushba and a reverent attitude towards it.

But Mount Legend, the cherished dream of so many climbers, is now outlawed.

Another amazing fact, quite a match for the rest. How is it possible that the world-famous peak, an inseparable part of the history of our, Soviet, and now Russian mountaineering, suddenly turned out to be banned, and climbing Ushba became a serious crime. However, this is the situation today.

Ushba is located in the short southern spur of the Main Caucasian Range. That is, abroad, which runs along this very ridge. The border with Georgia, for those who have not yet guessed. And Georgia is now an enemy for us.

Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba The state must protect its borders. From whom should they be protected? From enemies, of course, from criminals, smugglers and terrorists. But none of these criminal elements are interested in Ushba. It is difficult to even imagine a more fantastic, complex and intricate way to violate the border.

No, hundreds of heavily armed Russian border guards guard Ushba only from climbers. For what? Who needs to deprive people of the pure joy of sports victory? How did it happen that those who, not sparing their own lives, saved mine, and then wept at the top with the joy of a common victory - now, as propaganda claims, have become enemies?! No, something is wrong here. It can not be. I misunderstood something or got it all mixed up. After all, it cannot be that the enemies of the state become its own citizens?!

I just looked at old photos from the expedition to Ushba. The now forbidden top.

P.S. If (suddenly) this text catches the eye of one of those in whose hands there is power and authority over issues of a national scale, think, just think, no more - what's wrong with the fact that climbers will have the opportunity not only to look at Ushba and listen to the stories of veterans?! Is it really an unresolvable political impasse that the majestic peaks of Ushba can be accessed from the Russian side, as it has been for over 100 years? Is it really so difficult for politicians to take a step forward, even if not to each other, but at least to their own citizens, athletes, whose only interest is to be amazing at the top? beautiful mountain experience the pure joy of victory?! Is it really so difficult and deeply infringes on state interests?

Our principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, for almost 16 years now, the first Principle of work of the MCS AlexClimb Mountaineering and Climbing School has been Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle, the entire learning process is built, all programs and tours are developed and conducted exclusively within the framework of this main Principle. We believe that with a professional approach to program development, with personal discipline and the right motivation, mountaineering and rock climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And vice versa - all the troubles and accidents in our sport come from unprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect of elementary safety standards, from irrational motivation, from overestimation of one's own strengths and capabilities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDED in our work - our Climbing, Ice Climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - Safety Priority. In rock climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, MCS AlexClimb Safety Priority is your personal safety and comfort, whether we are training muscles and practicing movement techniques in the gym and on the climbing wall, making our way through a blizzard to the top or relaxing on the golden sands of the Caribbean. beach after a hot day of training on the rocks. Safety priority is the main credo of the MCS AlexClimb Mountaineering and Climbing School.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with nature, conducting active programs in the mountains, forests, rivers and lakes, we perfectly understand the importance of a careful and respectful attitude towards nature and its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor activities, we have adopted the Leave No Trace technique - a norm of human behavior in relation to the environment, and especially to wild nature. Indeed, in relation to people's attitude to nature, next to which they exist, far-reaching conclusions can be drawn about the attitude of these people to themselves ... Wherever and how we travel, we do not leave behind any garbage, we try to reduce our influence on environment to a minimum. We clean the previously polluted tourist sites from the left garbage, take out and take to the disposal sites what other people left there before us. We believe that only in this way, with the personal individual consciousness of every citizen, every tourist, climber or car traveler, we will be able to preserve the nature around us in its natural, habitable state - this is the guarantee of a healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Mind

The position of the MCS AlexClimb Mountaineering and Climbing School regarding a healthy lifestyle is understandable - we believe that only a sober mind is able to sincerely experience and sympathize, enjoy life in all its diversity. A bright and full life is possible only if absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness are observed. Any drugs that cloud our perception of reality are designed to harm our consciousness and physical health, to replace true values with false ones, to destroy us as people - to turn us into a flabby, powerless, senseless, gray herd with cloudy eyes. We do not impose our point of view on anyone, everyone has the opportunity to make their own choice. But within our School, we tacitly accept a very specific, very simple set of rules: no alcohol, no drugs.

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Kazbek, Tetnulda and Dzhimaraikhokh, the eighth peak of the rating is Ushba, 4710 m high.

2. August 2002. Beginning of dawn. View also from the slope of Elbrus. Most of Ushba is hidden (merging) with the Shkheld massif.

5. August 2004. Taken from the slope of Elbrus to an ancient soap box. Above the sea of clouds, under the clouds illuminated by dawn, rises the Caucasian Range with Ushba at the head.

6. August 2003. View from the ascent to the Western peak of Elbrus. You can see dots of people going along the "path" to the Saddle, and in the distance, on the left, the two-horned Ushba.

7. August 2004. View from the Western summit of Elbrus. On the left - Eastern, and in the distance - the peaks of the Bezengi region, previously mentioned in the "rating" Dykhtau, Bezengi wall, Tetnuld. And on the right - Ushba, like a huge "cat" with sharp "ears", peeking out of the clouds:

8. May 2013, high mountains are covered with snow. Ushba "among friends" - Chatyn, Shchurovsky Peak, Shkhelda. The narrow Ushba icefall is visible, flowing down from the plateau near Malaya Ushba (not visible).

9a. Ushba from the Bodorku pass.

Now I propose to "warm up" a little, look at Ushba from the south, from Svaneti (Georgia).

12. Ushba and Mazeri peak from the Kvish valley.

13. The same, view closer to the Kvish glacier, dawn clouds.

14. Another angle. August 2012. Southern and Northern peaks of Ushba, Gul glacier, from the Gulichal valley.

15. Photo with a large zoom from the lower reaches of Gulichaly. There is rarely good weather on the peaks of Ushba, even when it is sunny around. Here, in this picture, the peaks are smoking with clouds - condensate near the ice cliffs of moist air from the Black Sea or the Atlantic.

17. Another view from the Gulichal valley, August 2012. Two rock towers on the left are trying to repeat the contours of their neighbor. But where are they to Her!

18. View from the Enguri valley, Iprali community area, August 2014, 6x zoom, taken with a soapbox from a car window.

19. August 2014. Ushba from the horizon of Zuruldi in the Mestia region. Lucky with the weather!

20. Previous zoom view. South and North peaks of Ushba.

One of the most mysterious and beautiful sights of the Greater Caucasus is Mount Ushba, translated as "witch's coven". Everyone who has ever seen this miracle will never forget the indelible impression that her majestic beauty leaves. Ushba is located in one region of Georgia - Upper Svaneti, at a distance of one and a half kilometers south of the Russian Kabardino-Balkaria.

Right at the foot of the picturesque mountain there is a small settlement of Mestia, but you cannot see the sight from it. The inhabitants of the village are blocked by a magnificent view of the mountain overgrown with forest hill.

The beauty of the witches' haven

The mysterious and magnificent landmark of the Caucasus offers a beautiful view from the slopes of Elbrus, but Mount Ushba is quite capricious and is characterized by unstable and bad weather. Even when there are stable ideal conditions throughout the Caucasus and the tops of all peaks are visible, the beauty can be shrouded in clouds. To see it from Elbrus, sometimes you have to wait more than one day. The coven of witches does not need publicity.

But if the beauty decides to appear from behind the covers of the clouds, a striking frightening and delightful view opens up. More than two kilometers of pink rocks made of granite and gneiss hang over emerald meadows and a glacier waving with diamond shine. It is impossible to imagine even with the wildest imagination. The only way to comprehend all the beauties of Mount Ushba is to see it with your own eyes.

The legend of the bloody walls of the mountain of the killer Ushba

The red walls and the splendor of the mountain have become the basis of a very beautiful legend that the surrounding residents love to tell.

Once upon a time there lived a hunter Betkel. His youth, beauty and courage could even attract good luck, he always brought prey after the hunt. One day he decided to climb the mountain "coven of witches". All the neighbors began to dissuade him, but they could not convince him. When the young man approached the glacier, the Georgian goddess of hunting Dali came out to meet him, she liked the handsome man and she decided to bewitch him.

For many months Betkel lived happily with his goddess, but one day, when the fog of the mountain cleared, he looked down and saw the native walls of his village. He secretly left Dali. In the village he met the most beautiful woman in Svaneti and decided to marry her. A wild tour descended to the wedding feast, and the hunter decided to kill him in honor of the holiday. He chased the tour for a long time, not noticing how the path disappears under his feet.

The hunter climbed high enough on the slopes of Ushba, when the tour disappeared, he realized that he had fallen into Dali's trap. All the villagers gathered at the foot of the cleft, where Betkil got stuck, then he asked the inhabitants to perform the rites of the wedding and funeral, and then threw himself off the cliff, painting it in the color of his blood. The mountain became forbidden for hunters, and Dali stopped showing himself to people.

Forward to the top

Ushba is a mountain so high that its peaks are covered with snow, 4600 meters. Despite this, more than half of the way to its highest point of 2700 meters can be reached by car. True, you will need a good SUV, best of all, an UAZ, which is not for nothing called an all-terrain vehicle, in this situation it is much more useful than the vaunted Jeeps. On a road that is too narrow, wide imported cars simply cannot squeeze through.

Further ascent to the summit is possible only for experienced climbers who have already climbed the peaks of the IV-V category of difficulty. Participants have to overcome technically difficult sections of the highlands. You can use the services of an experienced guide or rely on yourself.

With an independent assault on the summit, it is worth remembering that the Ushba icefall is replete with cracks. In years favorable for ascent, they do not disappear anywhere, they simply become more visible. These are very dangerous areas, perhaps thanks to them the mysterious beauty received the gloomy nickname Ushba - the mountain of killers.

Climbing history

The conquest of the mysterious mountain fully justifies the old legend of the Svans. During the period 1888-1936, only ten climbers managed to climb the southern peak of Ushba, and only five were able to conquer the southern one. Despite the fact that more than 60 athletes tried to storm the peaks of the beauty. Many of them ended tragically.

In 1960, two Englishmen tried to climb the top of Ushba. Some were looking for guides, but none of the Svans wanted to enter Dali's possessions. Only one of the hunters was persuaded to lead the British along the snow-covered slopes and steep cliffs. They managed to climb Ushba, but one of the athletes died on the way back.

The killer mountain, the Witches' Sabbath, the Caucasian Matterhorn - these are just some of the names that people have given to the mountain that rises in the middle of the Greater Caucasus. There are many legends around the mountain, it is the pride (of Georgia) and wins the heart of any person with its beauty.

Description

Ushba - means "mountain that brings misfortune" from Svan (ush - trouble, ba - mountain). The Beauty of the Caucasus got its name because of the steep slopes and sheer cliffs. Not many daredevils today have conquered the heights of the Georgian beauty. There are two of them near the mountain: Northern (4690 m) and Southern (4710). True, on the map the height of Ushba is indicated - 4700 m., Something in between the heights of the two peaks. Interestingly, another name for Mount Yuch-bash, common in Karachay-Cherkessia, is translated as “three peaks”.

The slopes of the mountain closer to the peaks become vertical and have a pink color, as they consist of granite and rot. Their length is about two kilometers. In good weather, when the peaks of the mountain are not hidden behind the clouds, which happens quite often and does not depend on the rest of the weather in the region, especially at sunset (or dawn), the view that opens on the Caucasian Matterhorn fascinates with its splendor.

Therefore, many climbers gave their lives trying to conquer the slopes of the killer mountain, and those who were able to tame the obstinate queen of the mountains believe that the risk was justified. Perhaps that is why the names are common among the people - “coven of witches” or “Ushba - the killer mountain”.

You can admire the Beauty of the Caucasus from any high point in Svaneti - the Becho community, the village of Lakhushti, Mulakhi. The Ugi pass also serves as a good viewpoint; tourists take a lot of photos from these places.

Ushba can be observed even from Russia, as it is located near the Russian border with Georgia (1.5 km.). From here you also get wonderful pictures of the mountain, but close up, the photos, of course, turn out to be more epic. Even at this distance, the mountain attracts views.

Legend of the brave hunter Betkil

“The tribe of Svans has long lived at the foot of the mountain. Many years ago, a young hunter, Betkil, lived among them. He was young, handsome, stately and lucky. He always brought prey, as if the goddess of hunting herself - Dali helped him.

The young hunter fell in love with the most beautiful girl in the village and decided to marry her. The Svan tribe began to prepare for the wedding, and the groom, during the preparations for the wedding ceremony, decided to climb the Two-Headed Mountain in order to appear before his tribe as a great hunter.

The elders of the village dissuaded him, since the mountain was sacred, and only the gods lived on its peaks. But the young hunter did not obey and, with the dexterity of a snow leopard, climbed higher and higher until he reached the place where Dali lived. The goddess of the hunt has long watched the life of a mortal, and fell in love with him.

At the sight of the goddess, the hunter lost his head from her beauty, and Dali stopped time with a spell. And by the stream they enjoyed each other for a long time, forgetting everything. But Dali fell asleep, and Betkil decided to take a walk along the mountainside. Suddenly the hunter saw the lights of his native village and remembered his bride. The groom yearned for his beloved and it became bitter for him that he forgot his girlfriend. Betkil fled from Dali back to the valley, where the inhabitants were preparing for his wedding, only one night passed for them. Having learned about the escape of her beloved, the goddess of hunting bitterly sobbed and swore that the race did not want to become her beloved, would be a slave.

The wedding began, the Svans walked and drank, and the hunters boasted of their merits, but Betkil boasted most drunkenly. Suddenly, during the wedding, a huge tour appeared at the edge of the forest.

The groom immediately wanted to kill the tour and prove to everyone that he is the greatest hunter. Rushed after the beast Betkil, not noticing anything around. The hunter on the mountain rose higher and higher behind the tour, and the road behind him disappeared, leaving sheer cliffs. When Betkil realized his mistake, it was too late. The goddess Dali came out to him with a triumphant smile.

Then the hunter turned to the inhabitants of his tribe and asked to complete the wedding and conduct funeral rituals. After that, Betkil threw himself down from the steep cliffs with the words "Better a glorious death than the life of a slave." The blood of Betkil sprinkled the rocks of the Two-Headed Mountain and dyed them pink. The elders still make sure that no one disturbs the goddess Dali and does not go to the mountain. And since then, the goddess of the hunt has never been shown to people again.

Climbing history

The nature of the mountain queen is rather nasty, she does not spare anyone who dares to set foot on her territory. But still come across daredevils who managed to tame the temper of a mountain beauty.

The mountain was first climbed by John Garford Kokin and his guide Ulrich Almer in 1888. They climbed the Gray Peak. They managed to climb the South Peak only in 1903, an expedition of Austrian, German and Swiss climbers. They were led by V. Rickmer-Rikmers. After that, such famous climbers as Mikhail Anufrikov, Lev Myshlyaev, Gio Niguriani visited the mountain.

It happens that not all climbs to Ushba end successfully. So in 1984, an avalanche covered 6 climbers of the Georgian club of climbers. In 1995, 5 athletes fell off the rocks. They had 20 meters to the North Summit. In 2000, an ice collapse covered the camp, in which there were both Russian and English climbers. Their bodies were never found.

Climbing routes

Ushba is not itself high mountain in the Caucasus, but there are quite a few successful ascents of it. Routes to the peaks have difficulty categories from 4A to 6A. Despite the fact that the real Mattehorn will be easier to conquer. The difficulty category of the Swiss mountain will be a little easier from 3A to 5A. True, the Mattehorn (4478 m) is inferior in size to Ushba.

More than a dozen different routes lead to the North and South peaks of Ushba. The difficulty of the climb depends on the season and weather conditions. But we must remember that the climb can be deadly, despite its category of difficulty. For some climbers, even the easiest routes proved to be the last ones.

Despite the impressive height of 4700 m, half of the way can be driven by car, the UAZ is best suited for this, the road is quite narrow. Or you can use Mountain, this mountain bike is suitable for crossing easy mountainous terrain.

Climbing the North Peak

The village of Mestia is the most popular point of advance towards Ushba. Since the ascent is possible only from Georgia. Since the location of the mountain is near the Russian border, and the border is on the castle. And all attempts to climb the Mountain are considered a crime under Russian law.

Mount Ushba is invisible on the world map. And to find it, you must first find Elbrus. The two-headed beauty is only a couple of tens of kilometers away, only the full splendor of Ushba can be admired from Russia.

From Mestia begins the safest route - a classic of Soviet mountaineering. Difficulty of lifting 4A. The route takes 8-16 hours. Time is influenced by factors of preparation and natural conditions. The descent is carried out through the Ushbinsky pass or Ushba Pillow. This meta makes great photos.

But not everything is as simple as it seems. Recently, there have been strong landslides at the Ushba waterfall. It was through him that it was possible to get earlier on the mountain. Now more and more cracks are forming in the ice, which change their location during the day. Therefore, now the previously laid routes on the map are not relevant enough.

Climbing the South Summit

The difficulty of this route is 5A. But of all the ascents to the Young Peak, it is the easiest. When climbing, climbers follow the path of Mikhail Khergiani. It is necessary to climb the crest of the South-Western buttress, pass the "mirror" of Ushba and go down to the Gulkovskie camps (near the settlement of Gul). The trip there and back takes 2 days.

Climbing this route is technically difficult. The group is required to act as harmoniously as possible, be extremely disciplined and possess the skills of movement and insurance in mountainous terrain.

Harder paths are also popular with climbers - along the Eastern Face, the center of the North-Eastern Wall, the Eastern or Western Ridge, the icefalls of the North-Western Wall.

Conclusion

Climbing Ushba is very difficult. Climbers who decide to climb are at great risk. But despite this, climbing the beauty of the Caucasus is worth it. There is no more joyful moment than to be at the end of a difficult path and see the vast expanses of the mighty ranges of the Caucasus and take a photo as a keepsake. Especially from such an inaccessible mountain as the Two-Headed Ushba.

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What is ushba from Georgian. A story about the ascent to ushba along the route of Myshlyaev. Upcoming trips in Georgia