Peak topographers Eastern Sayan on the map. Climbing the peak of topographers in the polar Urals. What to take with you on a hike

1. Rinat and Yuri (Moscow)
2. Ilya (Krasnoyarsk)
3. Diana and Peter (Irkutsk)
4. I am Pavel (Angarsk)

July 30

From Angarsk to Slyudyanka we took an evening train, arrived at the base of the Ministry of Emergency Situations already after midnight and settled down to sleep.

July 31

Our driver took two partners with him into the cab, we loaded up and drove off. They drove along Orlik with us for about an hour, doing some of their own business. It was like a taxi ride. Finally, we left and it started... Even a relatively flat road transmitted sharp vibrations to the body, and on real off-road we resembled the contents of a shaker in the hands of an experienced bartender. Small pillows were fixed on the body frame to protect the heads. The only thing missing was signs: "This is a place for a headbutt." At about 15:00 we drove up to the Swamp.

It is with a capital letter - this is a large meadow with a river flowing through it. In such a meadow, it is just right to grow rice, if you do not pay attention to the permafrost at a depth. We were offered to leave the carriage and proceed to the end of the swamp on our own. At first, everyone briskly proceeded in the indicated direction, picking blueberries that grow abundantly there. Diana and I went last. I thought: "It's good to take a picture of how they will overcome - this is a show." When we arrived, we found a driver with a shovel, he was building a dam for a stream running into a swamp. Then the car rushed and got stuck, not having passed even 50 meters. Armed with a chainsaw and a Russian obscenity, the driver's assistants began to cut a hole in the swamp for a log, for which they wanted to fix the winch cable.

Dragging the car through the swamp, there is no other way to call it, took two hours, which is considered a good result. Since it took three hours the day before. Ilya and I stood on a hillock next to a tree for a good view, because we are both photographers. We stand, look at ourselves through the viewfinders, suddenly the car turns right at us. At first we thought what a cool angle and clicked our shutters. But for some reason, the driver's assistants began to wave their hands at us, as if we were disturbing them. I didn’t even think about leaving, because we were two meters higher than them and, by all logic, we had to go around. But the driver did not even think of turning off, and at the last moment, without examining the swamps, we had to jump somewhere. And ZIL-131 with a running start, like a swan, slipped through this hill and drove on! This is how our ideas about the capabilities of this Machine lagged behind reality! Then we changed our shoes and drove off.

At the entrance to the turnoff to Khoito-Gol, it became noticeably colder, but in pitch darkness and in this crazy turbulence, it was impossible to do anything. We began to bawl all the songs that came to mind, so as not to fall asleep and not to freeze. It was especially loud for me, I almost lost my voice. When I fell asleep without unclenching my arms, holding on to the seat, I woke up only from hitting my head against the frame of the awning of the car. We arrived near Choigan-Daban after 2 am.

Bonfire, tea and a snack with dry and lulu.

August 1

I woke up from the sound of the engine, the driver warmed up the engine and set off on his way back in the morning at 9:00. The morning was sunny, but with midges. Therefore, they opened the door in the tent, and left the net. They lay around for an hour, listening to Yu. Vizbor, and looking at pictures from the phone. Eat quietly and pack up. At 12:30 we went and were surprised to find after 50 meters a large clearing with a hut and tents. There were several Angarsk people among the people, they exchanged greetings.

When we came to Zhoygan, there was no limit to joy. Hot baths, changing into clean underwear, hot soup from Diana! True, the rain does not allow to finish this opus. The rain was heavy but short. We examined all the springs and baths, discussed plans for tomorrow.

We decided to leave our supplies of food and gas to local tourists, and go light to the assault camp under Topographers Peak.

The night was fun. The Buryats staged a concert of local amateur performances for about three hours with accompaniment from a chainsaw and a jew's harp. The voices were good. We were invited to join, but we refused. From the entire repertoire, we only learned a song about Cheburashka.

August 2

I was also struck by a huge lake with gigantic rocks on the edge. Then on the Pyatiozerny Pass itself, at an altitude of 2321 meters, there is a large lake with icebergs floating in it. Frying and other bright flowers grow on the shore.

The impression is amazing. At the pass in the tour, they raised a note from the participants of the current turiada. They write that it is raining, cloudy with breaks, temperature +12. Put in place, it started raining heavily. We found a suitable place for the camp, opposite the glacier leading to the peak of the Topographers. We pitched our tents in the pouring rain. Having changed into dry clothes, they began to warm themselves in sleeping bags. Diana came, took sublimates and a burner. Half an hour later, the guys took turns bringing Yuri and me first buckwheat porridge, then hot compote, we refused vodka. A feeling of bliss, but the sound of rain on the tent spoils all the raspberries.

August 3rd

We got up at 8:20, began to collect cats, rope, thermoses and dry rations in two backpacks.

Socks put in the evening under the sleeping bag did not dry. I had to put on a dry reserve, because. snowflakes float in the air. We went at 10:30. First, a crossing-jumping over the rivulet, then a steep ascent along the kurumnik, blocking the entire view of the peak. A gentle ascent, first over stones, then along a snowfield to a small scree of stones on the left. After it, the steepness increases sharply, and we put on crampons. It was easy and pleasant to climb them, despite the lack of experience of some climbers. Soon the angle of ascent increased so much that it became quite difficult to go, as in the steepest place of the ascent to Munka-Sardyk.

But for the time being, it was easy to cut the steps, since there was a firn under the crampons. Soon it was replaced by ice, barely sprinkled with snow that had fallen the day before. Visibility deteriorated sharply, I decided to go to the stones on the left, because. my cats began to wriggle out from under their feet (the shortcomings of the self-made design affected). We removed the crampons to climb the rocks, but they turned out to be too big, slippery and not suitable for our climbing. I had to go down.

While we were going down, we decided to try again tomorrow in a truncated composition. Yuri and Ilya decided to walk around the neighborhood and take pictures. We went to bed early, around 22:00.

August 4

We got up around 7:00.

The morning was promising, as the forecast said, the day should be clear. Rinat says that the bottom of the tents at dawn was a little frosty, which means frost. The backpacks were half assembled yesterday. It remains to roll up sleeping bags, eat, fill thermoses and go to the snowy peaks. First, to the nameless peak 3089 meters, then Topographers peak 3044 meters. Peter in the evening drank a little tincture of the golden root. At night I chased some devils and did not get enough sleep. We had breakfast and he went to sleep in the tent. It looks like we are losing him... I want to express my gratitude to Yuri for cats and dark glasses, Diana for sunburn protection cream, Peter for trekking sticks. Otherwise I just wouldn't go.

We left at 8:07, went quickly. In 2 hours and 10 minutes we reached the ridge, which overlooks another valley. There Peter caught up with us with sticks, again Yuri. We drank coffee together, reminiscent of just sweet water, because. Diana admitted that she did not remember pouring coffee into a thermos. We laughed, music played in our hearts. We put on the crampons and went on our unprecedented traverse to a wide ice ridge, from which we were going to climb onto the stones and finish the ascent along them. Under the crampons, we had a complex surface, consisting of ice powdered with a ten-millimeter layer of fresh snow, which made it very difficult to confidently move on it.

It was scary to take off the backpack at first, so as not to disturb the precarious balance. Then it’s not clear how to put eight sticks so that they don’t roll when awkwardly moving down the slope or fall deep into the crack we were standing over ... I was also not sure about the possibility of safely climbing the stones, so I did not remove the crampons and waited for Diana to start to rise. She admitted that she was very afraid to climb, but we brutally drove her first! Seeing how cheerfully my team was climbing, I, reluctantly, took off the crampons. But, what is it, all eight sticks are waiting for my participation in their rise! I climbed, I soon realized that I could not safely climb the stones, due to the large weight of the backpack and the steep slope. I had to leave the backpack with the camera in the nearest crack. Taking only the phone because of the fotik in it. The funniest thing about it was the lack of confidence in my return, but despite all the fears, we climbed a small plateau. I immediately rushed to the top and was happy to find the same topographical sign that was photographed on the map. I took out my phone and started taking pictures of my team next to it.

Then it was the turn of the video panorama, since the breaks in the clouds made it possible.

But soon the clouds began to thicken, and topographical cretinism attacked me - I did not know where the valley leading home was. I really wanted to get out of here! Which we did after spending 25 minutes at the top. I will not describe our descent over the stones for a long time, I will only say that half of the stones that we stood on or took with our hands were alive. There was a feeling that all these stones were poured from above directly from the sky and were waiting for their turn to fall further down! The descent and traverse to a relatively gentle slope took 1 hour and 45 minutes. After the same interval of time, we were already standing on the edge of the kurumnik.

We arrived at the camp at 4:00 pm. We had a bite to eat, drank tea and at 17:10 we went to the previously planned lake behind the pass. The place was notable for the excellent views around and the availability of space for tents. At the pass, we put our note on the tour, we arrived at the camp at 19:00.

Having set up camp and started eating, we saw approaching tourists from the side of Choigan. They came up, they said that they were from Kazan, they don’t want to go to the peak - they just look. We decided to go to bed early again. Tomorrow we must reach Choigan before anyone takes away our drop.

5th of August

We got up at 6:30, went back at 8:17. It rained a little.

I must say that the weather forecast from Foreca is fully justified: when we went, it was sunny for the second time to Topographers Peak, the rest of the days it was rainy. In front of Choigan we met a group of 5 people, with whom we will go from Khoito-Gol by car. There was V. Sher, whom all Angarsk tourists know. He sent me greetings from my mother, whom he met on the way to the Valley of the Volcanoes. In Choigan, Ilya and I left the coolies at the Tuvan camp and immediately went to get our pickup at the Buryat one. Although the flag is Russian there. But in the place where we left it, there was nothing. It turns out that kind people put it with their backpacks under polyethylene from the rain. Here I met a group of tourists who had a tent similar to mine, only bigger. Word for word, we talked. It turns out that the Angarsk people were here too. They then lent us sugar because we ran out of it.

Further, as usual: a bath, baths and soup with mushrooms from Diana. We rolled on karemats, the weather deteriorated. Yura and I went to find out the upper road to Khoito-Gol from the watermen from Khrustalny Gus. Then, like everyone else, in a tent, wait out the rain. Then baths and wash off in the bath, a feeling of bliss - a clean body and clothes. After the milk source, I go out covered in therapeutic mud. In order not to get my clothes dirty, I run to thermal springs in the huts naked, only in a T-shirt. As specially, interested people come across, trying to start a conversation. Hiding behind a pile of clothes, I mumble inarticulately and rush into the distance. In short, the day ended with a bang - tea with currants and sguha from the cast, as well as canned fish soup. We went to bed at 23:20.

August 6

We got up late at ten o'clock. We counted the day today with Yura, it turns out that the second half of the campaign began tonight. This is how we marked this equator. For breakfast semolina from Diana is my favorite porridge! Today after lunch we will go to our first stop under the pass. Come on, the weather is great. Diana has prepared a surprise for us - a cake with sushi!

Then, according to tradition, we went to the milk bath. Before and after, I dared and plunged into the icy fountain of youth. We meet at 12:20, at 13:30 we went. On the way came across water workers going to Biy-Khem and tourists from Chelyabinsk. Not far from the interruption, we were caught by hail, which turned into heavy rain. At 17:48 we arrived at our first parking lot. Here our opinions are divided. Petya and I want to go to Khoito-Gol through the pass and the valley of the Khoito-Gol River, Diana and Yura did not want to risk it and offer to go along the lower path and fords. Until 22:30 we sat in a large tent, where the rain drove us. They chatted and drank Kuril tea. At Yura's request, Diana threw a third handful of tea into the pot. It turned out not bad, but at night everyone (except Yura) could not fall asleep until the morning. Like this.

August 7

Got up at 8:00. It rained all night. Yesterday at about 11:00 pm a truck drove past us. Today Yura and I went to the driver to arrange our transfer to Khoito-Gol. The Buryat asked us about some Andrey from Angarsk, and he told us: "Well, go." Briefly refused. We left at 10:20. We didn't see anything remarkable along the way, there was only one dirty freight road. After turning to Khoito-Gol, we had to roam the river in groups of three people at once, so as not to be blown away. While we were crossing, Yuriy filmed us on a video camera, and we barked: "From behind the island to the midstream, to the expanse of the river wave ..."

We arrived at 17:10, very tired. It rained all day and the road was wrecked. All the little houses were occupied. We found a free half of the porch without a stove in a blue hut near the springs. The owner of this penthouse was called Zhargal Nikolayevich. He allowed us to set up camp in a free place, and we chopped and sawed firewood for him.

We walked around the baths, it turned out that they were all hydrogen sulfide. The general opinion about them is below average, especially after Choigan. A group of Angarsk people descended from the mountains, they said that it had been snowing all day in the Valley of Volcanoes and it was very cold. We decided to leave a drop here with cats, rope and food. Tomorrow it's easy to go out. We went to bed at 21:30, because very tired.

8 August

We got up at 7:00. We left the pickup in the attic, left at 8:45. After the pass we met three schoolchildren, very lightly dressed. They said they had 2 hours and 30 minutes to go. After a swamp with a river, we were overtaken by the people of Kiev with luggage on horseback, it turned out - watermen. We stopped at 16:45 at the nearest camp at the foot of the Peretolchin volcano, and they climbed across the isthmus to the next camp. On the way we were overtaken by a guy with a small backpack from their team, so he was in Nepal. While the tents were being set up, Kazanians came again, whom we met at the five-lake pass. One of them proudly carried spreading horns found somewhere. Diana wanted the same ones, why did she need them? The weather was good for us today - the sun shone all day, only now it drizzled. We refreshed ourselves and climbed the Peretolchin volcano, which offers a breathtaking view of the entire Valley of Volcanoes.

We went down to the lake in the crater, everything is very unusual. In the camera, the battery charge indicator showed half, although the frame counter is already winding the fifth hundred - not bad. Tomorrow we will devote to exploring the valley, we went to bed early - at 22:00.

August 9

I came upstairs, waited until the sun illuminated the entire volcano, and started shooting. Both volcanoes turned out, all from above - admire. Packed up and left at 10:15. We went along the packed path past a large camp - about twenty people. They did not see the lapel on which they stood further. We walked until the road began to go into another ravine, I noticed and turned the group in the right direction. The lapel had long been passed, so they walked in the direction, pushing through the thickets. We noticed an unusual stream with the release of gas bubbles from the bottom. Went out on the trail. From which only cities did not come across the people we met. Snezhinsk, Magnitogorsk, Kazan, Novosibirsk, Gus Khrustalny, Kiev, Angarsk, Izhevsk. On the last big lake we met three people with small backpacks and no horses. One girl was wearing Schwin's cycling jersey. They were surprised to learn that it was still quite a long run to the valley. Looks like they were going to hit the road back and forth in one day. The next morning I saw three bounty bikes near a small house in Khoito-Gol: Weller, Marin and Shvin. My respects to the brave people who came here on their own. On the last pass, we arranged a general photo party for all the glasses we had at hand. I took remote shots of Topographer's Peak, suddenly emerging from all the clouds. Just started the descent, drizzling rain, periodically stopping. On the descent, we collected honeysuckle and mushrooms, especially Pyotr excelled in mushrooms, he comes from Yerbogachen and understands them better than anyone else. Just before Khoito-Gol, the rain started up harder and we ran. I have an idea about a throw, for which you have to climb on a wet roof. Here it is, as I left it, under the slate. He took and lowered her from the roof with the help of Rinat and Ilya. Our building turned out to be completely empty, everyone dispersed and dispersed. We began to settle down, chatting cheerfully. When it began to rain, it became dark, Ilya made me laugh: "Where is the switch?" We met with Alexei, he is a pedestrian, as he calls himself. Came here 2 hours before us from the valley. A desperate guy, walks and swims along the Tisza on an inflatable canoe alone. Was on Elbrus and in Karelia on the White Sea. We went to the upper open-air bath, in which we had not yet been. The water there is the warmest, but you can’t call it hot. It began to rain - water from all sides, and even with bubbles. My silver cross darkened from hydrogen sulfide, and I hurried out of the bath. Not sure how to dry off in the rain? Only Yuri stayed there, I thought, what happened? I already ate and went to wash the plate and save him, and he comes to meet me satisfied! Diana arranged a gala dinner for us before we left. We went to bed at 22:00. 11th August Today is the day of departure. We need to get on the arrow in a passing car at 9:00. We left at 7:35. Until 11:00 we were waiting for a "punctual" driver in a zimukha, near the meeting point. I conveyed greetings to Viktor Sher, who had arrived, from the Drozdovs from Novosibirsk, whom I met not far from Khoito-Gol. When we got into the car, there were 17 people with us there. The driver took four more citizens of Kazan. Something this summer they are more than all other tourists. Thanks to such a large company, the car shook less, but we sat along the side, next to the exit. And it shakes harder. On the way, we successfully bought fresh milk, bread and sour cream from the farm! We arrived at Orlik at 20:35, when such heavy rain specially charged us, which we have not seen yet! But the Gazelle to Slyudyanka was already standing in the courtyard of the house, where we jumped out. We went to the guest house, had a bite to eat there and loaded into the Gazelle. The driver did not have a film and a tarpaulin, so we were forced to squeeze all 13 people with sacks right into the passenger compartment of the minibus! In short, in tight quarters, but not offended. The main progressive movement towards the house, which calms everyone. We drove all night, arrived just in time for the six-hour train to Irkutsk. The control in the carriages does not sleep even now, it is good to travel with pre-purchased tickets. The next day, all the participants of the campaign, except for the departed Ilya, met at the Seventh Heaven restaurant. We exchanged pictures and decided where we would go next time, but that's another story. I express my personal gratitude to all the participants of the campaign: Diana, Rinat, Peter, Yuri and Ilya, as well as the drivers Boris and Zhargal, who took us where we needed to go! Special thanks to my Olenka for creating a climate conducive to productive work on the collection and correction of this story!

In 1988, on the initiative of the employees of TsNIIGAiK, S.V. Novikova, V.B. Obinyakova and A.I. Razumovsky organized a thematic sports expedition dedicated to the 70th anniversary of the formation of the USSR Geodetic Survey.

In honor of the surveyors and topographers - the creators of the map of the USSR, it was proposed to install a memorial sign in the form of a stylized geodesic pyramid on the mountain top of Topographers Peak (Eastern Sayan). The Collegium of the GUGK of the USSR supported and approved the initiative.

The Topographers Peak area in the southern part of the Eastern Sayan was at that time one of the most interesting tourist areas, annually visited by mountain, hiking and water tourists from all over the country.

During the preparation for the expedition, unfortunately, it was not possible to establish when, by whom and in connection with what this peak was named. No materials about Topographers Peak were found in organizations that carried out topographic and geodetic work in this area in the 50s. The veterans - surveyors and topographers who worked in those years in the Eastern Sayan - could not say anything either. Presumably, the peak got its name in the 50s when deciphering aerial photographs.

When reviewing the cartographic materials and tourist reports on the Topographers Peak area, a suspicion arose, which was later confirmed on the spot, that numerous tourist groups that had climbed Topographers Peak over the past 30 years had actually climbed the nameless trapezoid peak, which dominated the region. Topographers Peak itself is located 750 m southeast of this peak and its height is 74 m less than the height of the nameless peak. And it is quite natural that tourists began to take the dominant peak in the region for the Topographers peak. It should also be noted that the height of the nameless peak is 3089 m, and the real topographers peak is 3015 m.

Taking into account the clarified circumstances, it was decided to install a commemorative geodesic sign on an unnamed trapezoid peak, visited by tourists and included in the classification list, category 2a.

Under the leadership of S. V. Novikov, the design and Terms of Reference for the manufacture of the commemorative sign were developed. The badge itself was made at the Experimental Optical-Mechanical Plant of the GUGK of the USSR. The sign was collapsible and looked like a stylized trihedral pyramid with a globe at the base. Technical assistance in the expedition was provided by the Irkutsk Aerogeodetic Enterprise.

The expedition included 20 people - employees of TsNIIGAiK, the State Center "Priroda", PKO "Kartography", Moscow and Irkutsk airborne geodetic enterprises and other organizations.

In the last days of July 1988, a helicopter dropped the members of the expedition into the upper reaches of the Khelgin River, from where tourist groups usually climb. The first days of the expedition's stay at the sources of Khelgin fully confirmed the information about the extreme instability of the weather in this area. Heavy rain gave way to fog, fog to snow, then it cleared up for a while and then everything was repeated again.

Climbing and delivery of cargo to the summit was headed by the researcher of TsNIIGAiK, master of sports in mountaineering A. A. Lozovsky. The abundance of snow in the mountains, avalanches and the weight of the load made climbing a completely unsportsmanlike event. Shuttle flights managed to lift the load onto the glacier, and on the first sunny day of July 30, a chain of people stretched up the glacier to the top.

The enthusiasm of the participants and the good weather helped not only to lift the entire load (which included a dismantled memorial sign, cement, tools, boards, buckets, etc.), but also to install a memorial geodesic sign on top.

On the sides of the badge there are engraved inscriptions: “TO SURVEYERS, TOPOGRAPHERS and CARTOGRAPHERS-CREATORS OF THE MAP OF THE USSR. March 15, 1919 V. I. Lenin signed a decree on the organization of the country's topographic-geodesic and cartographic service. ARRAY OF TOPOGRAPHERS PEAK. HEIGHT 3089 m.

A few days later, the weather allowed us to climb the summit again and take photographs and filming. However, due to a coincidence, none of the shots with the peak of Topographers turned out.

With regret, the expedition members parted ways with this harsh but beautiful region of the Eastern Sayan. Ahead was rafting on catamarans along the rivers Tissa and Oka, 300 km long to the village of Maslyanogorsk. In order to carry out safe rafting on rivers with dangerous rapids, the expedition was divided into two groups, which were led by experienced water tourists - employees of TsNIIGAiK S.V. Novikov and A.I. Razumovsky.

In the second half of the 19th century, the routes of topographers and surveyors of the Military Topographic Department of the General Staff passed along these rivers. Members of the expedition of the Irkutsk botanist N. S. Turchaninov first visited the valley of the Tisza River in 1834, and the Cossack Kuznetsov was sent to this area to collect plants and describe the area.

In the late 1850s, the route of the topographer I.S. Kryzhin, a member of the Great Siberian Expedition of the Russian Geographical Society, passed through the Oka River Valley, who, according to the head of the expedition, astronomer L.E. country, and, moreover, a route that can be well mapped by fairly accurate astronomical determinations of the positions of places. Based on the materials of this expedition, in 1861 a map of Eastern Siberia was published, which was the best map of that time. In 1865 along the river. The Oka passed the route of P. A. Kropotkin, later a famous geographer and revolutionary, who traveled on horseback from the village of Tunka to the village of Ziminsky (now the village of Zima) and made a number of geographical and ethnographic discoveries in this area. Interestingly, P. A. Kropotkin was going to go by boat across the many kilometers of cheeks of the Oka, now known as the Orkha-Bom gorge. And only the high price demanded by local hunters, who agreed to go by boat, did not allow the future world-famous anarchist to try his fate on the dangerous rapids of the Sayan River.

In 1887, along the Tisza, the routes of the surveyor Schmidt and the geologist Yachevsky, members of the expedition of Lieutenant Colonel of the General Staff N. P. Bobyr, organized by the Governor-General of Eastern Siberia with the aim of exploring the southern space of the Irkutsk province, passed. The results of these and subsequent expeditions marked the beginning of the development of this region of Eastern Siberia.

After the establishment of Soviet power, research in this area was continued by surveyors and topographers of the country's geodetic service. In the 1930s, the Geodetic Service was given the task of creating a 1:1,000,000 scale map for the entire territory of the state. Completion of the mapping of the country by the beginning of the 1950s required heroic efforts from surveyors, topographers and cartographers, which it is now hardly possible to fully appreciate possible. This is told in the books of the geodesist-writer G. A. Fedoseev, whose geodetic expedition routes also passed through the Eastern Sayan.

Surveyors, topographers and cartographers - the creators of the map of our country deserve blessed memory, and the memorial geodetic sign on the top of the Eastern Sayan reminds everyone who was able to climb to the top of this.

Southern Siberia can rightfully be considered the pride of Russian tourism. It was here that mountain peaks, forests, glaciers, taiga, meadows were uniquely combined. One of the most significant sights of the region are the Eastern Sayan Mountains and Topographers Peak - the highest glacier of the mountain system.

Geographic features of the Eastern Sayan

Topographers Peak is a glacier with a height of 3089 m, which is part of the Charm-Taiga massif and is located among the Eastern Sayan mountains in southern Siberia. The length of the mountain peaks is more than a kilometer in length, from the Yenisei to Baikal. Their structure includes volcanic plateaus, white mountains, flat peaks, high mountain massifs. Ridges with diverse topography and minerals have broken into a vast territory that occupies areas:

• Buryatia;
• Krasnoyarsk Territory;
• Irkutsk region;
• Mongolia;
• Tuva.

Among the natural objects of the mountains around Topographers Peak one can find canyons, basins, glaciers, lava flows, waterfalls, lakes of glacial origin. The vegetation is dominated by forests - cedar, spruce, fir, deciduous - as well as tundra and meadow shrubs.

INTERESTING ! On the territory of the Sayans there are the Stolby Reserve and the Tunkinsky National Park, where you can visit mineral springs.

Coordinates: 52°29"32"N 98°49"6"E

Climbing Topographers Peak and main points

Climbing the top of the Topographers is a difficult but exciting activity. Not everyone can overcome almost 3.1 km in height on a snowy surface. The peak itself consists of two peaks on the same plateau - left and right, or northern and southern. All the possible benefits of civilization are located on the southern part - there are tours, signs, water, places of rest.

Topographers Peak is perfectly visible from many places, they are also the main points of the glacier:

• Sherpov, Khelgin, Cherbi, Invisible, Pyatozernogo, Hanging, Shuthulai passes;
• the upper reaches of the rivers Tisza, Kok-Khem, Uzun-Uzyu, Burun-Saly, Arzhan-Khem;
• the mouth of the Zhomboloka River;
• the northeastern side of the Hi-Gol gorge;
• plateau between Sentsa and Tisza;
• the Dargyl River, past the Khoyto-Gol spring.

Topographers Peak can be seen even from Choigan Peak, the Big Sayan Ridge, as well as from the Volcano Valley.

Most tourists climb the peak towards the upper right edge, through the left saddle or along the central part of the glacier. According to the international classification, climbing the Topographers Peak has a UIAA 2+ difficulty category - 1+ is considered the most difficult and dangerous level.

What to take with you on a hike

Not a single hike in the mountains is complete without the appropriate equipment, inventory, provisions. Among the food should be drinking water, as well as canned food and other food with a long shelf life. Don't forget the first aid kit.

Personal equipment includes:

• Hygiene accessories;
• Warm clothes, thermal underwear;
• Waterproof outerwear;
• Comfortable warm shoes;
• Backpack, tent, sleeping bag, mat;
• Climbing equipment.

In addition, you must have a tent for a fire, an ax, a rope of 50-60 m, a flashlight, steel or aluminum cans, maps, a GPS navigator. It is advisable to take trekking poles, a burner for cooking. You can bring a camera or camcorder.

The most convenient routes

You can choose the route of the hike yourself, using the maps, or choose a proven one. There are many routes on the network, which are used by both experienced travelers and novice tourists. We offer a selection of the safest and most exciting routes to Topographers Peak:

1. Khutel farm - r. Dunda-Gol - trans. Choigan-Dabal - r. Arzhan-Khem - lake. Dodo-Khuhe-Nur - trans. Shuthulai - trans. Darlyg - Arshan - Sentsa - Khalun-Ukhan springs;
2. river Hadarus - trans. Choigan-Dabal - Choigan spring - Khelgin river - Burun-Sala - r. Daba-Zhalga - lake. Boldoktoy-Nur - Hoyto-Gol - per. Amazing - Arshan - Khutel farm;
3. Khandyto village - ist. Khalun - Hoyto-Gol - the valley of the Volcanoes - r. Burun-Kadyr-Os - lake Zagan-Nur - Dodo-Khuhe-Nur - lake. Alek-Nur - the village of Balakta;
4. Khoyto-Gol - Dargyl River - trans. Kozliny - Topographers Peak - Khelgin Pass - Choigan Peak - Arzhan-Khem - Dunda-Gol.

Weather and climate

The variety of climatic conditions of the mountain range is due to the location in different latitudes. Here there are features of the climate of Buryatia, Mongolia, Siberia, Tuva. Eastern Sayan has a permafrost zone in the west, sunny meadows and valleys in the southwest, stable weather with minimal precipitation in the east, except for Topographers peak.

Seasonal weather:

• Spring is cold, snowy, the average air temperature is 0 ... + 3 ° С;
• Summer is fresh, cool, rainy, the air temperature is kept at around +19 ... + 23 ° С;
• Autumn is warm, clear, practically without precipitation, air temperature fluctuates within +10...+3°С;
• Winter is cold, dry, windless, frosty, the temperature reaches -40...-44°С.

CAREFULLY ! The sharp continental climate contributes to temperature fluctuations in the range of 50-54 degrees.

When is the best time to go to Topographers Peak?

The hottest months in Buryatia are July and August, but in July the weather is fresher due to the rains. In August, the season begins and crowds of tourists attack the area. The coldest months are December, January and February, the average temperature here is -22...-26°С. At the same time, February is much milder due to the accumulated snow layer.

It is best to go to the East Sayan to Topographers Peak in summer or winter, when the weather is finally formed for its season. In the spring, melt waters and snow falls are very dangerous due to warming.

Tips for a tourist before a trip:

1. In order not to waste time looking for a carrier in the vicinity, you can find in advance the contacts of transport companies or private traders in Irkutsk, Orlik;
2. For beginners, it is better to avoid visiting the Hadarus River - there is a ford here, but there is also great depth;
3. If the purpose of the trip is a review of landscapes, you can exclude the Khara-Saldyk and Ara-Shuthulai rivers from the route.

Hiking in the mountains was in demand a few decades ago, after which they were replaced by seaside resorts. Now tourists are resuming the good old tradition of climbing. Topographers Peak is a great place that can provide impressions, adrenaline and bright pictures.

port of Oka Khandyto (non-residential), 8 km, net running time 1 hour 50 min. Clearly, the temperature is +18 degrees.

The path passes along a good dirt road.

With. Khandyto - pilot Khutel, 16 km, net running time 4 hours 30 min. Overcast, temperature +12 degrees, wind, rain.

summer resort Hutel - mineral spring Halun, 14 km, net running time 4 hours 35 min. Overcast, t +10 degrees, rain.

From the summer camp Khutel, our path lay up the river. Senets to the mouth of the Burun-Kadyr-Osa, and then along this river to the valley of the Volcanoes. From the summer camp the road goes through a lowland and is very dirty (they drive cattle), and from the Bulunai summer camp a horse path stretches.

The road runs along the Senets. When crossing the Burun-Kadyr-Os, we had to use the main rope for insurance. The further way passes along the horse path, then along the road.

Khalun mineral spring - Khoyto-Gol mineral spring, 14 km, net running time 3 hours 20 minutes. Clear, t +20 degrees.

From the mineral spring Khalun to Khoito-Gol again there is a road, but in some places it is better to follow the horse trail, because it is denser and there is no mud on it even during rain. In the area where the river flows Bushtyg in Sentsa often have to wade. The depth is shallow, but depends on the water level in these rivers. The motor road is laid around this section, along the top. When approaching the source of Khoito-Gol, there are also two fords across the river. Arshan.

mineral spring Hoyto-Gol - the valley of Volcanoes - r. Burun-Kadyr-Os, 30 km, net running time 7 hours 10 minutes. Clear, t + 20 degrees.

From the source to the pass there is a clearly defined path, it is easy to navigate. At the pass itself (the flat shoulder of the nearest peak), the path is lost, and you need to move, guided by the tours, and if the weather is sunny, then go straight into the sun (first half of the day). Behind the pass there is a small descent along the snowfield to the lake. There is a trail to the will of the lake, but in some places it is not visible, and you need to navigate by tours. To Burun-Kadyr-Osa, the trail winds among the thickets of dwarf birch, then along the stream. You need to be careful, because there are no holes filled with water between the dense thickets.

The trail goes along the edge of the left field to the Peretolchin volcano. The volcano itself is a regular truncated cone, overgrown with grass and larch. In the crater of a volcano in the center of a small lake, a tour is complicated.

From the Peretolchin volcano to the Kropotkin volcano there is a path that crosses the lava field and then goes along its edge. From both volcanoes, the entire lava field is clearly visible, and the surrounding mountains give the area a picturesque view.

It is better to organize parking at the Peretolchin volcano, because there is firewood and water nearby.

R. Burun-Kadyr-Os - mineral spring Khoito-Gol, 31 km, net running time 9 hours 20 minutes. Clear, t +25 degrees.

The trail along Burun-Kadyr-Os is clearly defined at first, but then after 4 km it disappears in a birch dwarf forest, which is very difficult to move along. Sometimes there are animal trails, but very short ones. You have to go along one bank, then the other, sometimes even along the river itself.

In the upper reaches of the river, the valley is wide, there are icings (ice thickness up to 1.5 m). Then the sides of the valley narrow, the path moves away from the river by 300-500 meters. Where Burun-Kadyr-Os turns east (already flowing along the Sentsa valley), there are many trails. The further way to the mineral spring Khoyto-Gol passes along the already known road.

mineral spring Khoito-Gol - Lake Zagan-Nur, 13 km, net running time 3 hours 15 minutes. Clear t +25 degrees.

To the three rivers, from where the Sentsa originates, the path is well-known. Then you need to climb up the Dunda-Gol. The trail is very good. The only obstacle on this trail is the fords: three across Dunda-Gol and one across the Khoito-Gol stream. To the very lake, the trail winds along the old moraine ridges past small lakes.

There are permanent parking places on the shore. There are a lot of grayling in the lake.

lake Zagan-Nur - per. Choigan-Daban - mineral spring Choigan, 12 km, net running time 4 hours 15 minutes. Cloudy weather, sometimes rain with snow, strong wind, t +4 - +6 degrees.

The path to the source is very good. A little difficulty in orienteering when approaching the pass. You can't go left and right. It is necessary to adhere to the middle direction, focusing on the right side of the mountain (in the direction of travel). Then the trail goes to the watershed plateau. In the wet season it is swampy. After passing two lakes, we descend into the valley to Choigan, famous for its hot radon springs. The descent is steep and you have to be careful not to trip over the protruding roots.

In total, there are 33 springs in Choigan with different water temperatures.

Daytime. Clear, t +15 degrees. Radial access to the waterfalls. Traveled 18 km in 6 hours.

mineral spring Choigan - lane. Khelgin - the right source of the river. Helgin, 12 km, net running time 3 hours 50 min. Clearly, t + 15-18 degrees.

Today we start approaches to Topographers peak. At first, the trail winds through the forest among the windbreak, then the ascent to the first terrace begins. Above is a small lake. Further - along the Arzhan-Khem stream, and take off again. From stone to stone we go out to a small plateau, go around the first large lake (it remains on the right), and again a cascade of take-offs. Second big lake. Part of it is still under the ice. There are many snowfields around it. We overcome them and go to the pass point - the tour. Descent on a rather steep snowfield. We slide down like on skis and find ourselves in the realm of Zharkov. We pass a little along the swampy plain to a huge boulder. Below you can see Lake Dede-Khuhe-Nur, a little to the left and closer to us from under the mountain Starik flows Left Khelgin, tumbling down a small waterfall.

It is better to park at this boulder. From it begins the most convenient way to climb to the top, and the place is even, dry. There is no firewood in the Topographer Peak area.

Climbing Topographers Peak - Lake Dooda-Khuhe-Nur, 17 km, net running time 7 hours. Overcast, but high cloudiness, about 3500 m, t +5 degrees. From the second half of the day it is clear, t +15 degrees.

It is most convenient to start climbing the peak of topographers from the boulder, right behind the stream. The climb is steep but short. Further up to the peak there is a snowfield, which consists of two steps. The car in which he lies is large and wide. On the left rises a beautiful peak, on the right is a wall that also turns into a peak, straight ahead is the trapezoidal top of Topographers Peak.

At the very base of the peak, we turn left and climb the rib along the stones. Next is firn. We climb it under the stones, a little more rock climbing, and we are at the top. When climbing, you need to have a pair of ropes of 30-40 m, ice axes and crampons for the first participant. There are snow peaks at the very top, so you need to be careful in case of an avalanche. The peak itself is a truncated cone with a flat top, on which there are two tours. The descent started from the left round on the stones, and then - on the snowfield. They went down like skis. The way to Lake Dooda-Khuhe-Nur is quite difficult - kurums along the lake, lack of paths, swampy terrain - all this creates those inconveniences that we cannot live without. It is more convenient to walk past Lake Dede on the right side. The lake itself was formed as a result of the destruction of rocks. The water is clear, but there are no fish.

lake Dooda-Khuhe-Nur - r. Shara-Tyrendita, 15 km, net running time 4 hours 45 minutes. Clear, t +29 degrees.

The trail appears about 2 kilometers in front of the lake, and along the lake itself you have to go along the kurumnik again. The history of the formation of Dood is similar to Dede, only it is smaller.

Before the Khelgin flows into the Tisza, the path is clearly defined, there are no special obstacles on it. Often there are camps of shepherds and tourists. Especially popular is the parking at the very mouth and above the waterfall - large grayling is caught. Further way - down the Tisza to the mouth of the river. Shara-Tyrendity - passes through the lowlands among the bushes. Right next to the river is a good parking lot.

R. Shara-Tyrendita - lake Alek-Nur, 23 km, net running time 7 hours. Overcast, sometimes rain, t +5 degrees. From the second half of the day light cloudy, t + 10-15 degrees.

From the parking lot to the first clamp - 1.5 km. The clamp is difficult to overcome only in big water. Further, the trail departs from the river, in places more than a kilometer, hiding in the forest, which makes it difficult to determine the location of the group. A serious obstacle in the way is the river. Shuthulai. It is especially dangerous in rainy weather. The river rapidly carries its waters to the Tisza, overflowing before flowing into three arms. Even in low water, crossing the main branch is difficult and requires insurance. Its width is about 50 m. Further, the path goes to a terrace, overgrown in places with small shrubs.

On the approaches to the Shutkhu-Lai-Nur lake, the trail gradually begins to climb up, leaving for the Mukhay-Khutel-Aaban pass. This way is used by shepherds, driving their herds to summer pastures in the upper reaches of the Tisza.

lake Alek-Nur - r. Dabata, 28 km, net driving time 6 hours 40 minutes. Clear, t +18 degrees. Small thunderstorm in the evening.

The road to Balakta starts from the lake. The pressure in the region of the mouth of Dabaty is waded into low water, and it is better to bypass it on top in high water.

R. Dabata - pos. Balakta, 14 km, net running time 3 hours 15 minutes.

From the mouth of the Dabata the path is again horse-drawn, as the cars cross over to the other side of the Tisza above the clamp. The road starts only from the winter road Bukhem-Khebtete. To the village Orlik can be reached by a ride from here.

Peak of Military Topographers with ice. Y. Inylchek (from the confluence with the ice. Broken). To the left - Pogrebetsky peak and its northern wall (passed only in 2006). The ridge to the right against the background of the sky - to the Chonteren pass, from which the route to peak 5A to tr. And the snowy saddle in front of the peak, against the backdrop of the ridge to Chonteren, is the High Pass. Yes, the Chonteren pass leads the explorer Zvezdochka to the ice. Chonteren (China), and Vysokiy - from the upper reaches of the Yu. Inylchek glacier to the ice. Star.

Studying the materials that I managed to find on the Internet, I got the impression that the peak does not belong to the category of frequently visited objects. Judge for yourself: the first attempt to climb to the top was made on the expedition of Igor Erokhin in 1958. From the Chonteren pass. But then, in fact, they did not set a goal to climb, since the main thing for them was the Victory, but climbed for acclimatization. And if you rely on the book "Igor Erokhin's Victory", as soon as the movement became more complicated, they turned back. The place where they climbed was called the peak of the Military Topographers Z., 6816 m. Actually, at this point the ridges from the Chonteren and Vysokiy passes converge (although it seemed to me visually that they converge a little earlier). Finally, in 1965, an expedition appeared here, planning to make the first ascent to the peak. The ascent of the pioneers is described, for example, here: http://refdb.ru/look/1517800-pall.html. They arrived in the area at the beginning of July, having already acclimatized, by July 29 they reached the upper reaches of the Yu. Inylchek. The ascent took place, in fact, in the Himalayan style - with the installation of 3 intermediate camps (the 3rd - on the High pass). On August 5, after a rest, they started from the lower camp, on the 8th they climbed the High Pass (5964 m), on August 14 they climbed to the western peak - they took a note from Igor Erokhin. August 15 were at the top, descended in 3 days. The route is classified 5B k.tr. And again, in any case, according to my information, no longer passed. Further we read on Kazbek Valiev's website - they (Valera Khrishchaty and Kazbek) took a note of the pioneers in 1988, when, as part of the Union team, they made the traverse Pobeda - Military Topographers (preparing for Kancha).

View of the Topographers from the western saddle of Khan-Tengri. The icefall is traversed in different ways. This is an icefall, which for some reason is called the second by the first climbers. But below the icefall, I did not notice there. Blue - so we passed it in 1993. Red - approximately the path of the pioneers. I came across descriptions with other options. Well, it's obviously a matter of taste and condition. These are all routes traveled by military topographers from the north (from Kyrgyzstan). I did not find a description of Korenev, but I assume that they climbed that way. But if I'm wrong, maybe someone will correct me.

The next on the summit were Valera Khrishchaty with the team on the Pobeda-Khan-Tengri traverse in 1990. Whether someone went in the 90s - I just don’t know, again, maybe someone will add something. But there is a suspicion that we could be next there in 2001 - then we planned a traverse from the Chonteren pass. But, fortunately, nothing happened - that is, it turned out to be a "breakfast with a view of Elbrus." True, we didn’t have breakfast and we didn’t see anything - we just heard ... In bad weather we made our way along the Zvezdochka near Chonteren, hoping that as we approached, the weather would just improve, we sat there for two days with visibility ... In general, a shovel in front of the vestibule of the tent it was hard to see ... Well, they listened to avalanches from all sides ... And sometimes they felt - when they got it from a shock wave. So in the end, then they crawled back. Why "fortunately"? Well, I don't like climbing the same peak several times. And since 2002, the Chinese Tien Shan opened up to us - and we saw it from there ... Yes, I immediately forgot about the traverse.

In general, our route from China is the fourth line to the top. Or fifth, if you count the traverse. And we took notes from there just by Korenev for 2003 and Kirikov (Tomsk) for 2005 (Kirikov did not find Korenev's note - there were two rounds). This is the easiest way from the south and the most difficult one that has been climbed to this peak.

Yes, also - the peak of the Military Topographers 6873 - the third highest peak of the Tien Shan.

At first, we planned to launch directly from the foot of our southern ridge, i.e. from a height of 4000 m. There, before reaching the gentle part of the ridge, there is a good "Crimean" five, Vovka and I even felt it during reconnaissance. But then they decided to shorten the length of the difficult part a little, and bypass this "five" through the eastern side circus. And thank God - after the “pyaterochka” there turned out to be such a fancy ridge that there was a chance to get out only to the point of our exit along it for a couple more days.

And we go down to the rocky couloir, run to the shelter - under the ledge, and go along the ledge, bypassing the remaining faults...

And soon we descend to the Chonteren glacier - to our native icefall, through which we went in 2002. And that means we're downstairs.

A couple more hours - and we are in the base. The process of completing our expedition begins - the conservation of the base. Until next time... Ahead is a simple (2A) pass and a 40-50 km run. Here, too, trouble awaited us. To begin with, Kolya got caught on a moraine, so much so that ... Well, his knee was swollen, his face was slightly bruised, but he seemed to be able to walk. And that's good ... It can be seen that with the total volume of loads we already have too much.