Independent travel in Azerbaijan. Road trips and adventures: Baku. What to bring from Baku

Don't know where to go for the weekend? How about going to Baku? A spontaneous trip to Baku is the option when you get ten times more than you expect.
The old city of Baku, the endless embankment, the Caspian Sea, oriental hospitality, delicious Azerbaijani cuisine (sturgeon!), peace and security. I hope we have convinced you that you need to go to Azerbaijan.

We are planning a trip: flight, do I need a visa, what kind of passport, currency

Organizing an independent trip to Baku is very simple. Citizens of Russia do not need a visa, a foreign passport is enough, which will be stamped upon arrival.
Another advantage of traveling to Azerbaijan is the low cost of air tickets. I bought tickets a week before the trip, they cost me 16,000 rubles, and if you book a month in advance, you can buy a one-way ticket from 5,000 rubles. S7 flew from Moscow, believing that our airline would organize a more comfortable flight than AZALJET (Azeybarjan Airlines), but was mistaken.
The return flight of AZALJET was simply gorgeous. We boarded a large comfortable plane, the distance between the seats allowed us to stretch our legs freely. By the way, the plane matched everything I saw in Baku. Everything here is beautiful, neat, expensive, stylish, calm, so even a regular economy class flight feels almost like business class. Takeoff and landing were not felt at all, I have never met such comfort, although I often fly with our normal airlines. And we were fed a delicious dinner, which is also a rarity.
I will not undertake to advise which currency to take with me, because with the current fluctuations it is not clear whether it is profitable to change rubles into euros or dollars. I can say for sure that there are no problems with withdrawing money in rubles from a card at an ATM, rubles are also changed in exchangers.

Now 1 manat (AZN) is equal to 33 rubles, it's easy to count: just remembers the old days when the ruble against the dollar was in this range. If you count at the official rate, then the exchange of rubles and dollars will give you the same amount in manats. As you can see, the exchange rate in Azerbaijan is favorable for our currency, you can travel with rubles, so we boldly put another plus in favor of a trip to Baku.

If you do not know English, then in Baku this will not be a problem. In the tourist area, I came across Russian-speaking people in museums, restaurants, hotels. Plus? Plus!
In terms of security, the city seemed safe to me. Balanced people, even children are calm here. Baku is a modern city, you feel much safer here than in some European capitals, where you are either offered intimate services or trying to steal something from your bag. It was absolutely comfortable and calm for me to walk around the sights alone.

How to get to the center of Baku from the airport

When you arrive in Baku, you immediately understand that you have arrived in an oil-producing eastern country. If at the mention of Baku you have associations of crowds of people in caps with a bag of oranges in their hands, then you do not understand what Baku is.
Airport them. Heydar Aliyev evokes a lot of positive emotions when you get off the plane, for a second you think that you are at an exhibition of contemporary art. Waiting for a flight takes place in a comfortable environment, you just relax in the waiting room. The city's airport was designed and equipped with the most fashionable companies, after such beauty, you don't even want to remember our air harbors, especially outdated by all signs of Domodedovo.
I arrived late in the evening alone, so I booked a transfer in advance for 1700 rubles.

Official taxi at the Baku Taxi airport, landing costs 3 AZN, further on the counter. Payment is made at the end of the trip in cash or by card. Travel time is about 20 minutes.

A taxi was called from the hotel to the airport at a fixed price of 30 manat, but I did not look at what kind of taxi service it was. The husband was driving from the airport to the hotel for 50 manats.
Public transport from the airport to the city can also be reached, especially since it runs around the clock. Buses of the Baku Bus company stop before exiting from the first and second Terminals, tickets can be bought at the machine, which are installed to the left of the exit from the doors of Terminal 1, to the right of the exit from Terminal 2.
The bus interval is half an hour, there is air conditioning and even a toilet inside. The fare costs only 1.50 AZN, and if you immediately take a transport card, the price will be 1.30 AZN. On the official website in real time, you can see the time before the arrival of the bus, the travel time is 30 minutes. http://www.aeroexpress.az/ru.
The end points of the bus route: Airport and May 28 metro station (practically the center, there are two only metro lines of the Baku metro, as well as a railway connection), between them there is one Koroglu stop (red line of the metro meter).
Baku metro map can be viewed here

Old city of Baku

The Old City is the heart of Baku. Those who expect to see the ruins of houses here will have to be disappointed - each house has been restored, the doors are shining. If you have never seen the Caravanserai, ancient mosques and baths, then you definitely need to come here.

Two hours is enough to briefly examine the Old Town (make a lap of honor). If you want to visit the Maiden Tower, the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, listen to an audio guide, then a whole day will not be enough for you.
There are many options for walking around the Old City. At the Old Gate there is a point where you can buy an audio guide and explore everything on your own at your own pace. There you can drive through the old center in an electric car.

Top attractions in Baku

I conducted a survey among several friends, do they know what to see in Baku and why go there? Of the five, one remembered the "damn it" from the Diamond Hand, the second heard about the Flaming Towers. I’m telling you briefly, because I plan to write photo reports of walks around the city to demonstrate the beauty of colorful Baku.

• Old City (Icheri Sheher)
• Book at least a day for the Old Town.
• Fortress walls of Icheri Sheher
• Maiden Tower (Asaf Zeynalli str., 24)
• Palace of the Shirvanshahs (Zamkovaya st., 76)
• Mohammed Mosque (Mirza Mansur St., 42)
• The Flame Towers (Mehdi Huseynzade st., 1a)
• Heydar Aliyev Center (Heydar Aliyev Avenue, 1)
• Carpet Museum
• A unique modern museum dedicated to the most ancient craft of the East. In my opinion, this is a must see in Baku.
• Funicular and Upland Park Baku. All the pleasures at once: and ride on the "train", and walk through the park, and visit the observation deck. Tip: come to Nagorny Park when the sun is shining on the city, and not hitting you in the face.
• Embankment of Baku. The embankment seems endless - many kilometers of beauty. There are no beaches within the city, the embankment is suitable for walking along the Caspian Sea, many people ride bicycles, which can be rented here.
• "Little Venice" in the Seaside Park. Modern canals are next to a picturesque park where you can ride on pretty boats.
• The street where the famous scene from the Diamond Arm was filmed: st. Kichik-Gala, d.8/1

Embankment of Baku

The embankment in Baku stretched for many kilometers. There are no beaches here, but there are plenty of places for walking. It is convenient to rent a bike and go around all the sights or take a ride on a sightseeing train. I was walking on foot.

The embankment begins with the flag square, on which, as you guessed it, a giant flag of Azerbaijan flutters. The Corva Museum looks impressive, be sure to look into it, there is something to see (museum review).

Pleasure boats depart from the berths, and you can look at Baku from a height on the Ferris wheel. The cactus garden looks beautiful, little Venice, along the canals of which everyone rides boats.

Azerbaijani cuisine Baku

Baku is a very tasty city. We were served a great breakfast in the hotels, a mouth-watering dinner on the plane, and street food and restaurants are just a song.

I still remember Baku tomatoes. And what a magnificent Caspian fish in restaurants - you will lick your fingers. We ate sturgeon for a year ahead. It is also worth trying saj, rich soups, eggplant dishes.

It is not so easy to find colorful Baku restaurants, as there are mostly modern European and Asian establishments. If you want to try the national cuisine, then look for restaurants in the Old Town.

Viewpoints in Baku

From a height, you can look at the old city from the Maiden Tower, which is difficult to pass by.

Other viewing platforms can be found on the wheel of fire, in one of the bars of the Flaming skyscrapers - the symbols of modern Baku, and also take the funicular to the Nagorny Park.

Choosing hotels in Baku: how to navigate

Conventionally, when choosing a hotel, I would divide Baku into three points of attraction: the Flaming Towers (famous skyscrapers that symbolize modern Baku), the Old City and the embankment, which stretches for 25 kilometers.
There is a five-star hotel Fairmont Baku Flame Towers in the skyscrapers, I think fans of Moscow City and other areas with skyscrapers will like it. It is relatively inexpensive for a 5 *, prices can be checked on booking.com. Nearby there are standard apartments and hostels, from the windows of which you can see the symbols of the country's oil wealth.
I decided to live in the old city, after reading the reviews, I realized that the most comfortable and colorful hotel is slightly above the average price category - Shah Palace Hotel 4 *

The hotel is chicly located, close to the sights of the old city, inside there is a magnificent color, service and comfort. The same plan for comfort hotels was recommended to me by a guide: Austin Boutique Hotel 4*
Azcot Hotel 4*
and more simple, but with an excellent location Du Port Hotel 3 *.
I recommend that you open the search for hotels on the map and look at other options from the above examples, because choosing a hotel in Baku is a pleasure, because there are prices for any wallet, and almost everyone has a high rating. The option when you can afford to choose at least the color of the wallpaper hotel.
Closer to the embankment, I was recommended to consider the Park Inn hotel, next to it is the Hilton (as well as the Marriott, Four Seasons and many others), but I would not exchange the opportunity to live in the Old Town for anything. Yes, and I do not like chain hotels, I like unique, with a twist. When choosing a hotel on the waterfront, do not think that you can walk to the beach. Many mistakenly think that in Baku you can swim in the center, as in most cities located on the coast. But in Baku, the embankment is clad in concrete, there are no beaches. If resting on the sea is paramount for you, then you need to choose country hotels with beaches, and come to Baku for a walk.
Numerous hostels, inexpensive private hotels, apartments for rent are open near expensive hotels. Choose what is dearer to your soul and enjoy the beauty and originality of Baku.

Baths

1. In the Old City of Baku, only one functioning baths remained - the Baths of Aga Michael
Aga Mikayil Bath House - Kicik Qala, 16, Baku, Azerbaijan (Price 65 manat for sauna, hammam, 30 minute massage)

Taze Bay Baths, st. Sh.Shamil, 30, Baku, Azerbaijan
Many compare these baths with a souvenir shop - all the walls of the bath are hung with various oriental items. You should come here for the sake of beautiful interiors and a special oriental flavor.

Excursions and audio guides in Baku

In the old city of Baku, there are several travel agencies where you can buy excursions both around the city and out of town. I love the tours that the locals give, so I chose the sightseeing walk here.

Travel agencies offer a wide range of day trips: for example, to the temple of fire worshipers, to the oil fields. In details we talked about it here .

What to bring from Baku

You can bring a silk scarf from Baku as a souvenir - just be careful, there are many fakes. Where does silk come from in Azerbaijan? Everything is simple in Sheki there is a silk-spinning plant, where silk scarves are produced.

Armuds - glass cups for tea, reminiscent of the curves of the female body.

Wines - pomegranate wine is especially appreciated. Pay attention to wine brands Salavan, Sevgilim.
Sweets - there are many variations of oriental sweets: Sheki baklava (thin as a cobweb), Turkish delight.
Exotic types of jam - pink, olive jam, nut jam. Most of all I liked nut jam, believe me it is very tasty!
Sauce Narsharab - a sauce made from boiled pomegranate, served with meat.
Carpet - it's hard to say how to transport a carpet. But keep in mind that the carpet must be woven no earlier than 1960, otherwise the goods at the border will be confiscated and returned to the owner as a national treasure.

Black caviar - there is an export restriction, no more than 250 gr and a proof of purchase is required, for example, a receipt.
Azerbaijani tea (Azerchay) - very tasty tea with different fillings.

I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that there are very expensive souvenirs in the Old Town. Tea, jam, baklava can be purchased at any supermarket. It is better to buy delicious products at the local food market "Yashyl ​​Bzar" (or Green Market, not far from the railway station) - tell the taxi driver, everyone knows where he is.
You can also buy groceries at Bazarstor and O "Bravo supermarkets.

Baku made a strong impression on me. I did not expect that this is such a modern city and at the same time colorful. Now I am thinking about a longer trip to Azerbaijan.

The good thing about the traveler's life is that you don't know what to expect from the next day and the new place. I did not expect much from Azerbaijan, it became the first country in my journey through the countries of Transcaucasia. And therein lies another secret of the wise universe. Don't expect too much and you will be rewarded. The country has surpassed all my most optimistic expectations. I categorically did not want to leave, because how to leave a country where people treat you with incredible respect and participation, they always try to help, creating a cozy home environment on the way, where food hits all taste buds with an orgasmic wave at once, where mountains are adjacent to the sea, and forests with cities.

Space landscapes, mud volcanoes, juicy fruits and vegetables, eclectic melting fat tail, carved caravanserais, perky songs - that's what accompanied me on this wonderful trip. And, of course, I can’t help but mention the magical event, because where, if not in an oriental fairy tale, miracles happen. In a small Azerbaijani village, where, due to the lack of attractions, I got to know the local culture in the market, absolutely unexpectedly we came face to face with Gerard Depardieu himself, and, remembering my French school lessons, I explained to him on my fingers what I was doing in this not the most popular among tourists place. Gerard starred in a film about the travels of Alexandre Dumas Sr. in the East (and Dumas knew a lot about interesting places).

Azerbaijan is a country whose emotions I could measure in laugh hours or tons of positive.

So, if you value the warmth of human hearts more than stars in a hotel, if nature is closer to you than shopping centers, if you are open to new experiences and consider travel as an adventure, if you love emotional outbursts and laughter, then you are in Azerbaijan.

Visa and border crossing

Russian citizens can enter Azerbaijan without a visa on a valid passport and stay in the country up to 90 days. If for some reason you want to stay in the country longer than the allowed three months, then the visa issue can be resolved at the Embassy of Azerbaijan in Moscow, at: Leontievsky lane, 16.

What to look for:

Import and export rules

How to get there

You can get to Azerbaijan by land, by water or by air, depending on the complexity of your route and the starting point of your journey.

By plane

The easiest and fastest way to get to Azerbaijan is by plane.

To Baku from Moscow

The flight from the capital of the Russian Federation to Baku lasts about 3 hours, here are the airlines that fly on this route:

• from Domodedovo ( 216 USD- round-trip price);
• Ural Airlines from Domodedovo ( 180USD);
• Pegas fly from Zhukovsky airport ( 180USD);
• Azerbaijan Airlines from Vnukovo ( 190 USD);
• Utair from Vnukovo ( 160 USD);
• AEROFLOT from Sheremetyevo ( 190 USD).

To Baku from St. Petersburg:

To Baku from other Russian cities:

• from Novosibirsk the airline's planes fly to Baku on Sundays and Wednesdays. Travel time - 4.5 hours, ticket price - 340 USD.
• from Kazan Azerbaijan Airlines planes fly to Baku on Sundays and return on Mondays. Travel time - 2.5 hours, round trip ticket price - 210USD.
• Azerbaijan Airlines also operates flights to Baku from Yekaterinburg on Thursdays and Sundays. Travel time - 3 hours, ticket price - 310 USD. The airline "Uralair" flies on the same route on the same days. The flight lasts 3 hours and costs 300 USD.
• from Mineralnye Vody A flight to Baku Heydar Aliyev Airport by Azerbaijan Airlines lasts only 1.5 hours and is carried out on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays ( 160 USD).

All current prices of different airlines can be found on the websites of the carriers themselves or, for example,.

Azerbaijan airports

The country has 6 international airports:

The second most important airport in Azerbaijan Ganja receives flights from Moscow on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays (4 hours, 215 USD).

By train

A train in the post-Soviet space is already an adventure, so if you have time left and you are inclined to leisurely contemplate the landscapes outside the window, read books under the sound of wheels or savor tea in the famous faceted glasses in a metal cup holder, then do not deny yourself pleasure and set aside a few days of your own life on the road from Moscow to Baku.

From Moscow to Baku

Train No. 55 departs from the Kursk railway station to Baku on Saturdays. Travel time is 2 days and 4 hours, and ticket prices vary from 100 USD in a reserved seat car up to 140 USD in the compartment If you want luxury, then buy a ticket for the SV car: 260 USD and a comfortable trip is guaranteed!

From St. Petersburg to Baku

If you are traveling from St. Petersburg and dream of conquering Azerbaijan by rail, then you can get to Moscow in any convenient way and from there start making your dream come true. About how and on what to get from the northern capital to Moscow, it is interesting and detailed here.

How to get from the station to the center of Baku

The Baku railway station is conveniently located in the center of the capital, so if you choose to travel by train rather than by plane, then your acquaintance with Azerbaijan will begin for you in the very heart of this beautiful city.

By bus

From Moscow

You can come from Moscow to Baku by bus, the average price of a one-way ticket is about 60 USD. But keep in mind that most carriers are private and you can find out information at the bus stations. A bus covers a distance of 2,200 kilometers in 31 hours.

You can clarify the information at the South Gate bus station or at the Sadovod market, from where international buses and minibuses depart. But be prepared for the fact that you will be traveling with migrants who move only in this way from the capital of Russia to their homeland in Azerbaijan.

Due to the difficulties with the exact timetable and the purchase of tickets in advance, as well as due to the length of the journey, lovers of traveling by land are better off considering the good old train.

From other cities of Russia

From some Russian cities, for example, Kazan, Samara, Naberezhnye Chelny, Krasnodar, Rostov, Nizhny Novgorod, buses run to the Azerbaijani capital. However, it is unlikely that you will be able to find information on flights in online booking systems, so you should contact the bus station in your city directly for information.

Baku bus station

Buses arrive at the central bus station in Baku, from which you can reach the city center in 20 minutes by bus and metro or 10-15 minutes by taxi. I will tell you more about this type of transport below in the “Moving around the country” section.

By car

For lovers of adventurous deeds, there is an option - to get to Baku by car.

From Moscow to Baku

Travel distance will be approx. 2,300 km. The most convenient way passes through Makhachkala.

Gasoline costs will be 150–200 USD, and travel time is unlikely to be less 28 hours. Time at the border is unpredictable, you can slip in a couple of hours, or you can get stuck for half a day. This is due to both objective factors (the number of cars) and subjective ones (the mood and performance of state border employees).

As in almost the entire post-Soviet space, crossing the borders is accompanied by requisitions, especially motorists mention them, recalling the territory of the Republic of Dagestan. They can ask for a bribe for something, or they can simply “as a gift to an employee.” You can refuse, but then, at best, the car can be sent for additional inspection, and at worst, you can find something that you didn’t put there.

Therefore, the path by car is for the most daring.

From Makhachkala to Baku

As an alternative, minibuses and buses run from Makhachkala, in which the border crossing is more understandable and simple. Travel time from Makhachkala to Baku - about 5 hours.

From St. Petersburg to Baku

If you decide to travel from St. Petersburg, then add 800 kilometers and 8-10 hours of travel to the total distance.

Tourist regions

Let's talk about where a traveler in Azerbaijan should head first.

On the map, I showed what the regions of the country will be of interest to, and then I will tell you more about this.

Apsheron region

The main region of the country, since it is here that the capital of Azerbaijan is located - a modern, futuristic, vibrant, historical, incredible metropolis and cultural stronghold of the country.

I find it difficult to single out any one specificity in the region, probably, like Baku, the region is too eclectic.

Here on the coast of the Caspian Sea stretch sandy beaches operating during the season, the most famous of which are Mardakan and Shikhovo.

Shikhovo is a zone of more representative resorts, where, in addition to hotels, tourists are offered the whole range of water activities, water parks and an equipped beach area. The best resorts are Aqua Park Shikhov and Crescent Beach.

The Mardakan area is a little more mundane, although there is everything you need for a beach holiday. Popular resorts are Khazar Golden Beach and Fras Beach.

Apsheron region is famous mud volcanoes , the most famous of which are located in the Martian Gobustan. All the time I remember with what concentration I stood in the middle of the desert by the mud pool, waiting for a new “boule”.

Except mud splashes Gobustan I remember the cosmic desert landscape. It was like I was on another planet. If you are lucky, you can stumble upon rock paintings and try to imagine what the inhabitants of the region looked like thousands of years ago.

Here on the Absheron Peninsula is located reserve .

Connoisseurs of antiquity will be interested watchtowers of Mardakan who have seen a lot in their lifetime. With the approach of the enemy, oil was set on fire in the tower, thereby notifying the inhabitants of the danger.

35 kilometers from Baku is located fire temple ateshgah . As you know, the region is rich in mineral deposits, and here in ancient times natural gas came to the surface. And since in that era not all phenomena could be explained by facts, the area quickly became famous and acquired a religious interpretation.

Guba-Khachmaz region

The district is located in the north-east of the country and is the closest mountainous region to the capital.

Most of all here I remember the town of Guba. On the one hand, there is nothing remarkable here except for the curious Krasnaya Sloboda : an area originally called "Jewish settlement", where Jews still live. The place is considered the only compact region where Mountain Jews live in the entire expanse of the former USSR.

On the other hand, despite the fact that Sloboda is practically the only attraction of Guba, this is where you can see the real Azerbaijani life: get to know real people and see the Caucasian village routine in all its beauty.

But the real treasure of the region can be safely called located high in the mountains Khinalig village . You can get there by a special car and be surprised at how the small Khinalyg people (about 3,000 people in the world) managed to preserve their language and their customs.

In addition to people with big bright eyes, the mountain landscape itself is striking, into which old men in jackets and geese in love organically fit in.

After visiting a remote Khinalyg village, it will certainly be nice to soak up the beach resort Nabran , where there is the sea, and forests, and nightlife.

Ganjabasar region

This is a region for nature lovers, which I consider myself to be. Of course, Baku is also interesting, but mountain lakes, stormy rivers, life-giving air, meadows and snow-capped peaks are dearer to my heart.

At an altitude of 1500 meters above sea level are Goygol and Ajikend resort areas where they come to treat the respiratory system and just relax.

blue Lake Goygol appeared here more than 1,000 years ago and has been pleasing to the eye ever since local residents and stray travelers.

Not far from Ganja is Khanlar town , famous for the production of delicious wines and cognacs. And before tasting, I recommend wandering around the surroundings with beautiful forests, parks and lakes.

Astara region of Lankaran

This area surprises with a combination of very different natural resources. It has access to the sea, which is now atmospherically overgrown with reeds.

The region of the mouth of the Kura River is a favorite place for migratory birds and an oasis of joy for an amateur ornithologist. And most importantly, there are two significant natural parks in the region: Hyrcanian National Park and Gyzylagach Reserve .

Hirkan National Park, just 5 hours drive from Baku, is a place where there are no bars, no shopping malls, no discos, but only a forest. Beautiful and virgin forest. It is good not only for guests, but also for the indigenous inhabitants - plants and animals.

Nature lovers arrange a real photo hunt for animals, the apotheosis of which can be the happiness of seeing deer swimming in a mountain lake at dawn.

The Gyzylagach reserve is a paradise for ornithologists; almost all types of birds that are in Azerbaijan are represented here.

Nakhichevan region

This is an isolated region of Azerbaijan. Due to the unrecognized Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, which cuts Azerbaijan into two parts, the way to the region is difficult and possible only by air.

However, this is interesting. Beautiful landscapes, ancient villages where little has changed over the past hundred years, hospitable people, rock paintings, the old fortress of Yezdagerd, the sacred mountain of Gamigaya - this is what awaits those who dare to fly over the disputed territory and end up in an enclave on the other side of the country.

Sheki-Zagatala region

The region has not only many natural beauties and amazing landscapes, but also the brightest city of Azerbaijan Sheki .

In the very center of Sheki, there is a magnificent old caravanserai, converted into a quite affordable hotel. Living there, it is impossible not to feel a slight taste of antiquity in every detail. By the way, the word "barn" is translated as "palace", but not at all in the way we thought.

Sheki is a magical city, especially in the evening sunset light. I strongly recommend not to miss!

Shirvan region

Mountain climbing, easy walks, visiting waterfalls - there is everything for outdoor enthusiasts.

Shirvan Valley incredibly picturesque. I present my personal recipe for a reboot: a leisurely walk through the most beautiful Shirvan valleys with rivers, peaks, meadows and giant boulders that have found their eternal home here.

Top cities

Baku

A city of unimaginable contrasts, where incredible futuristic buildings and cozy quarters of Old Baku coexist hand in hand.

While walking, the contrast is striking. Right now, I wandered into the old entrance, where the names of the former residents embossed forever on the mailboxes have not yet been erased, and after a few steps I find myself in the city of skyscrapers, reminding me that there is oil here.

The beautiful embankment is especially beautiful in the evening, when the high-rise buildings are painted in the colors of the Azerbaijani flag, and the water breaks against battered stones with a pleasant noise.

According to my observations, the embankment looks like during the day, and in the evening like.

There are a lot of interesting sculptures in the city, successfully inscribed in its architecture.

A girl talking on the phone, a pile of books, a sad violinist - these statues seem as real as the shoe shiners, reminding us that cleanliness is held in high esteem in the Caucasus.

Surprisingly, silk carpets in old shops, a monument to tea, mosques, birdhouses and cats of all stripes coexist together very organically. Probably one of the few cities I have visited that is so eclectic.

It is worth allocating a few days to get to know the city so that you can take your time, feel free to get lost in the narrow streets of the Old Town, look at the doors made in the form of backgammon and other cute details and enjoy gastronomic tourism to your heart's content.

And, of course, don’t forget to take a “damn it” memorable shot on Kichik-Gala Street near the very house where the episode of the film “The Diamond Arm” was filmed.

Sheki

Unlike Baku, this city is small but very atmospheric: terracotta houses with carved balconies surrounded by picturesque green mountains, cars from the 80s and the warm tones of the setting sun could not but please me.

The most famous landmark of the city is the Palace of Sheki Khans.
From here you can also go to Kish, a small village with an Albanian church, in half a day.

A minibus ride in Azerbaijan is already an adventure. All the passengers got to know me, and during these 40 minutes on the road, everyone shared their story. Undoubtedly, the most valuable thing on the road is the people we meet.

It is they who form the impressions of the country, only they can make an unforgettable trip on a broken-down minibus, or they can spoil the feeling of a hotel with stars.

And I remind you that in Sheki you should only stay at the caravanserai - the oldest and most beautiful hotel in the city!

Lip

This is the village in which I ended up on the way to the Khinalyg village. A place with a single hotel, old dilapidated baths and the remnants of former luxury in the form of a grand staircase in the middle of an empty park. Well, this is what real local life looks like far from oil money.

However, I felt great here. Because the elderly residents of the city speak Russian well, because they treat you with respect, because they strive to feed you.

The part of the city behind the bridge is called Krasnaya Sloboda. If you cross the bridge and walk along this very Sloboda, it will seem that you have been transported into happiness, because on every corner there is nothing less than a real “Palace of Happiness”. However, the truth turned out to be more prosaic.

Registry offices are called houses of happiness here.

The history of the freedom is interesting. Mountain Jews live here, and the settlement itself is divided into quarters with synagogue centers. Initially, representatives of this rare nationality spoke their own language, reminiscent of Farsi, but now it is not difficult to meet bilingual Jews who understand and speak Azerbaijani, and trilingual residents who speak Russian perfectly.

Even in Guba, as in any place where there are few sights, or rather, in places that in themselves are one big attraction, you cannot miss the bazaar. I remember I bought figs, and they gave me a kilogram of pears as a gift, and this is not uncommon here!

In my case, the market was marked by an event that, according to my estimates, could not have happened in Guba. Anywhere but not there. While tasting grapes at the market, I noticed a movement, and a local boy said: "Depardieu will come now." “Of course, of course,” I thought skeptically. But he really came and was no less surprised than we were to see fair girls at the market in Guba. The conversation was brief but memorable.

Here is such a town Guba - a city of surprises and unexpected meetings.

Minibuses leave for Guba from the Baku bus station every half an hour at a price of 2–3 USD, the journey time is 3 hours.

Nakhichevan

This is an enclave city, so if you decide to include it in the itinerary, you will have to fly from Baku by Azerbaijan Airlines for 40 minutes and 40 USD(tickets for this flight cannot be bought online, but only at the box office). The city itself is located on the border with Iran, so the capital's residents often go to Nakhichevan in a detour: by car through Iran. If you have a visa, this way is overcome in 10-12 hours.

The city has many ancient monuments, and if you get here, be sure to visit: the mausoleum of Kuseyir of the XI century, the fortress of Gyaur-kala, the mausoleum of Noah, the caravanserai in Julfa and the mausoleum of Momine Khatun. And, probably, the most incredible construction of the city is the Khudaferin bridges over the Araks River.

It is interesting to look at the monument to Bebek, the Azerbaijani-Iranian analogue of Stepan Razin, who became famous for his unsuccessful uprising against the Iranian Caliphate.

Ganja

This is the second largest city in Azerbaijan, formerly known as Kirovobad. Various national features were embodied in the planning of the urban structure. Ethnic Germans, who left the city only in the 90s, played a significant role in the design and creation of houses and parks.

Naturally, there are buildings in the city that have survived to this day from the Soviet era. Such an eclectic mix is ​​very characteristic of Azerbaijan.

I was struck by the plane trees in Ganja - 500 slender green trees that adorn the city and are considered its symbol. The oldest tree named Dyul-Dyul is 1,500 years old.

Ganja as a museum open sky: if you just wander through its streets and districts, you will definitely stumble upon something interesting. I accidentally came across a strange building decorated with bottles, and the locals immediately told me that the building is called the “bottle house”.

The building was built by a man who lost his son in the war, and it was in memory of him that he decorated the building with portraits of the hero, as well as stones and 50,000 glass bottles brought from different parts of the USSR. Sad and touching story.

Mingachevir

vintage and interesting city on the banks of the Kura River. There are architectural monuments, historical evidence, parks, the ancient settlement of Sudagylan and a reservoir, which the locals call the Mingachevir Sea. Still: there is even fish here! And the pond itself is used by artists for inspiration.

For me, the most pleasant place was a cozy embankment with shady alleys and almost a sea panorama.

Top attractions

1. Xinaliq (Xınalıq)
   A small village far in the mountains could be one of thousands of similar villages, but still it is special. A small nationality lives here, the Khinalygs, who have preserved their unique language.
   There are a lot of amazing things in Khinalyg, children have huge eyes, cows have long eyelashes, and life here is its own, measured ...
   Children blow bubbles, women do laundry, men in identical suits walk slowly through the village. And it is surprising that, despite such a remote location, the Internet has been here for 7 years.
   
2. "Gobustan" (Qobustan) - Azerbaijani "cosmos"
   The Gobustan National Park is located 30 kilometers from Baku. And it is triple surprising that, having overcome such a short distance from cosmopolitan Baku, you find yourself in a different world. On another planet. In a parallel universe.
   The national park is a large desert area with petroglyphs scattered over it, about 5,000 years old. To be honest, I'm not a big fan of petroglyphs, but the shades of red-brown stones struck me.
   There are also famous mud volcanoes. Around the mountains, stones of strange colors and cracked earth. In the distance, the sun is shining over the mountains and stones, there are no people.
   Unusual landscape, as in "The Secret of the Third Planet". Volcanoes make strange noises. So you sit on the ground, waiting for a splash, and around: gurgling, gurgling, gurgling. Curious.
   For an excursion from Baku, travel agencies ask for about 150USD for the whole day. I went on my own by public transport: buses No. 120, then No. 195 will be taken to a place on the highway where taxi drivers stand and offer a ride through the park. The price for this trip is 15–20 USD.
3. Maiden Tower in Baku (Qız Qalası)
   Walking around Baku, it is impossible to miss this massive building in the Old City. Scientists are still arguing about the purpose of the tower and its age, but this name interested me. A local resident, an elderly Tural, told me a legend about how the tower appeared. And, frankly, legends are much more interesting than boring facts.
   The word "maiden" is used here in the sense of "impregnable, uncaptured", because at one time the tower was part of the defensive structures of the Baku fortress. The legend says: the local shah fell in love with his daughter and forced her to marry. She, of course, resisted and, in order to somehow cool the ardor of the lustful father, she asked him to build a tower, in the hope that during the construction of a high structure, her father would change his mind. But the shah stood his ground, then the beauty climbed the tower and threw herself into the sea.
   I climbed the tower 1.5USD) and enjoy the views of the Old Town, looking at the authentic balconies and mourning the fate of the unfortunate girl.
4. Palace of Sheki Khans (Şəki xan sarayı)
   Sheki itself is a pleasant city, but the Palace of Khans is a real treasure. Having crossed the threshold of the ancient palace, I seemed to have fallen into a treasure chest (entrance - 1.5 USD). Still, imagine stained glass windows made of 14,000 multi-colored pieces of Venetian glass.
   The palace is more of a living quarters than a museum, and this is especially interesting. While walking among the interior items of women's and men's rooms, the imagination involuntarily draws pictures from the past, where a richly dressed khan eats a handful of grapes on a sun-drenched terrace.
   Guests are greeted by two spreading plane trees, plane trees, well sheltered from the midday heat. There are very interesting excursions in the palace ( 3USD).
5. State Flag Square in Baku (Dövlət Bayrağı Meydanı)
   "Square" is a conventional name, in fact, the territory of the place is 60 hectares.
   The height of the flag placed here is more than 160 meters, and the size of the banner itself is 35 by 79 meters.
   It is here, when the sea wind is waving a giant flag, that the respectful attitude of Azerbaijanis towards their country and its main symbol is very much felt. This is worth learning.
   Nearby there is a Ferris wheel, several galleries, a beautiful embankment with sculptures, a cozy promenade, cafes, restaurants and even a small one where you can ride along the milky rivers on your own gondola. And from all these places you can see the flag!
   
6. Goygol Lake (Göygöl)
   Azerbaijan is associated more with oil than with a beach holiday. But nevertheless, in addition to the coast of the Caspian Sea, you can swim here in fresh water. Lake Goygol is located 45 kilometers from Ganja, quite close to the border with the unrecognized republic of Nagorno-Karabakh.
   The lake has clear water that you can drink, and if you can drink, then the fish are comfortable here. Trout is found in the lake surrounded by the most beautiful places.
   It will not work to plunge into the lake, the approach to the water is prohibited, moreover, the water temperature in the hottest time does not rise above +17 ° С. I would not call it a problem, because in good weather here, in the green forests, it is great to walk around the neighborhood and breathe clean air.
7. Absheron National Park (Abşeron Milli Parkı)
   An excellent natural park just an hour's drive from Baku. 700 hectares of the reserve are located in a picturesque place on the Absheron Peninsula. Here, if you're lucky, you can see many species of birds, animals and plants. And in the waters of the Caspian, starting from September, you can meet a sea snake or even a Caspian fur seal.
   Entrance to the park costs about 1 USD, you can get by taxi from Baku (about 40 USD).
   Don't forget a cap and sunscreen, the sun can be very hot. It is possible to hire a guide in the park, but I preferred to walk on my own. The place is conducive to reflection on the eternal and the essential. Tickets can be bought.
8. Beshbarmag (Beşbarmaq)
   The name is surprisingly consonant with the popular oriental dish beshbarmak, but the meaning is very far from it. Beshbarmag is a mountain 40 kilometers from Baku.
   In fact, the answer is simple: beshbarmak means “5 fingers” in translation - a meat dish is eaten in this way, and the mountain resembles fingers with its shape.
   The mountain is not just beautiful, it knows how to fulfill desires, but only those who will spare no effort and climb it. There are cases when climbing the mountain helped the suffering to be healed of ailments, and those who dreamed of children to become parents. The views from the mountain are magnificent, and water drips from the source, healing any ailment.
   According to legend, the immortal sage Khyzr prayed here, dreaming of knowing the secrets of life. And until now, people go and go to the mountain to feel their involvement with higher powers, to ask to fulfill a desire or to part with their own sins.
9. Icheri Sheher (İçəri şəhər)
   This is the Old City in Baku, bounded by fortress walls. Here you feel strange, because being in a place with such a pronounced historical and cultural flavor, reminders of modernity come across to the eye every now and then.
   Either a huge flag develops in the distance, or skyscrapers divide the horizon line into several parts. But in Icheri Sheher one must concentrate on the old.
   There is no need to plan a route, you just need to wander through the narrow streets with balconies, look into courtyards, greet people, idly admire old souvenirs, effortlessly ask the price of carpets.
   Everything is interesting here, and I really fell in love with the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, where I had to pay for the entrance 1 USD, and the market square, which is 6 meters below ground level.
   Until now, Kasum-bek's bathhouse, ancient mosques, the Maiden's Tower stir the soul and evoke memories of the amazing atmosphere of the Old City.
10. Craftsman Village Lahij (Lahıc)
    Lagich is a small but very interesting village near the city of Ismayilli. If in the city of Ismayilli the only entertainment for tourists is a cafe with delicious food and the beautiful name "Dostluk" (friendship), then in Lagich, there is something to see.
    This is probably one of the most famous eastern centers of handicrafts. Here you can watch how copper and leather goods are made in numerous workshops, how carpets are woven, traditional oriental ornaments are applied, and even weapons are made by the hands of masters of their craft.
    The secrets of the craft have been passed down from generation to generation and, judging by the works, have been perfectly preserved. As, however, is the sewerage of the city, which, according to the stories of a local old woman, is 1,000 years old! You can get to Lagich from Ismayilli for 1 USD and 50 minutes. Minibuses go to Ismayilli from Baku, you will have to pay for the 5-hour journey 3–4 USD.

Weather

Azerbaijan is interesting at any time, but of course the best time to visit is from spring to autumn.

Summer

This is the time of year for those who love the heat and want to include a beach holiday in their travel itinerary. During the day, the air temperature in Baku can reach +30 °C. And sea water warms up to + 25–26 ° С.

The heat and drought can be hard to bear, especially if you like long walks and hikes. Therefore, summer is here for the persistent.

Spring

Great time for nature lovers. This season is not hot here, the time of flowering begins, and the stay will be comfortable. The temperature in April-May reaches +20–25 °C, but we must remember that the higher the mountains, the colder.

The swimming season begins in mid-June, until this time the sea can only be enjoyed visually.

Autumn

This period of the year is suitable for those like me, for those who like to combine a hundred in one. In autumn it is still warm, you can swim, and, depending on the month, you can catch the harvest of fruits and vegetables.

In autumn it is about +25 °С in Baku, the water in the Caspian Sea is about +22 °С, which is quite suitable for swimming.

Azerbaijan is a very sunny country, but it can rain in autumn and spring, they paint natural landscapes and urban landscapes in completely different colors, and this is wonderful. But they can also make it difficult to visit the sights.

For example, in October it was raining in Ismayilli, and it was difficult to get to the handicraft Lagich because of the erosion of the road, which the locals playfully called "mountain drain" in their own way.

Winter

It can snow in Baku in winter, at this time there are quite a few tourists. Such weather for an amateur makes a walk along the embankment and especially in the Old Town incredibly atmospheric.

You can not expect special cold weather, in winter the thermometer rarely drops below -2 ° C.

Nature has no bad weather, so choose a convenient time and go to get acquainted with beautiful Azerbaijan!

Moving around the country

Traveling around Azerbaijan is quite easy, especially for us who speak Russian. You can use a plane, train, bus, minibus or even a taxi.

By taxi

Taxi service is developed in Baku. You can use the international Uber system, you can order a taxi through applications, then the price will be fixed, or you can catch private traders on the street, then the cost of the trip can be absolutely any, besides, the street bomber may simply not want to go where you need.

A couple of years ago, London cabs began to operate in Baku, which have perfectly taken root in the city. In the people, however, they are often called "eggplant" because of the characteristic color, but they drive strictly according to the meter.

Probably, this vehicle is dedicated to a funny song about the “Lada eggplant sedan”.

Long-distance taxi rides are possible, their price directly depends on your ability to bargain.

By plane

The plane is a convenient way to move around the country and, I must say, quite affordable. The Azerbaijan Lines airline operates regular flights to Ganja, Gabala and Nakhichevan:

• planes from Baku to Ganja fly on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays (1 hour on the way and 31 USD).
• Planes fly to Gabala from Baku on Fridays and Sundays (one hour and 28 USD).
• there are also flights to Nakhichevan, but they can only be purchased at the box office (40 minutes and 40 USD).

By bus

Historically, the most popular transport in the post-Soviet space is land transport. Many minibuses and buses go to all corners of the country.

Here are the most popular routes that depart from the main bus station in Baku:

• Baku - Gabala (5.5 hours, 5 USD);
• Baku - Guba (3.5 hours, 3USD);
• Baku - Ganja (7 hours, 4USD);
• Baku - Ismayilli (5.5 hours, 3–4 USD);
• Baku - Lankaran (6.5 hours, 3USD);
• Baku - Sheki (7 hours, 4USD).

The bus station is located at the metro station "January 20th" from where you need to pass a couple of stops on the city bus.

By train

The train is a great alternative to the bus. In almost all countries of the former USSR where there is such an option, I choose the railway. Firstly, the train is much safer than buses and minibuses with impudent and impetuous drivers. Secondly, trains arrive on schedule, and thirdly, you can enjoy the view from the window in a comfortable horizontal position.

Azerbaijan Railways offers routes to most places that may be of interest to the traveler. Ticket prices are quite low, and therefore they sell out pretty quickly.

• Mingachevir,
• Zagatala,
• Shirvan,
• Astara,
• Balakan.

• Hertz;
• Aznur (there is a counter at Baku airport);
• Nascar rent;
• caravan;
• Cermington.

Rent price:

• car category "mini" - 10–15 USD per day;
• car "standard" - approx. 15–35 USD per day, depending on the total number of days (on weekends, the tariff doubles);
• SUV - 40–60 USD.

Many companies require a security deposit of 180–200 USD for a car and 250USD for an SUV.

The requirements for the tenant are easy to meet: you must have more than 2 years of experience, international driving license and a credit card or cash for collateral.

A liter of quality gasoline in Azerbaijan costs $0.7.

Connection

In Azerbaijan, a foreigner can easily purchase a SIM card with the Internet, for this it is necessary to present a foreign passport. The peculiarity of the region is that the cost of a SIM card and a package often depends on the “beauty” of the number.

Some cards may cost 10USD if the number is easy to remember and consists of repeated digits. If this moment is not important for you, then for 2–4 USD you can easily connect to a mobile network.

There are three operators in Azerbaijan: Azersel, Baksel and Nar-Azerfon. Their prices for services are about the same, but local residents said that Azersel's connection was a little better.

I used the rate Gənc Ol: 2 GB of traffic, 200 minutes of on-net calls and 200 SMS cost me 3 USD (5 AZN).

Common in hotels and restaurants WiFi so you'll always be connected. Even in the remote village of Khinalig, people have known what the Internet is for many years and actively use it.

Language and communication

Azerbaijani is spoken in Azerbaijan. Now the written language is based on the Latin alphabet, but some letters, with all our desire, we will not be able to read. However, there is also good news. Almost all young people in the capital speak English and Russian, while older people speak Russian practically at our level.

There are also funny incidents, for example, in the distant village of Khinalyg, where, as I said, there is a language, one stern man pointed to his wife with a question:

-How old do you think he is?
-To whom "him?
- To him, my wife.

Another nuance is the false friends of the translator, on the very first day I was embarrassed by the inscription "sexy", found on many signs.

"Sexy ceramics", "sexy motors", "sexy halva". Fortunately, "sexy" is not what you and I thought, "sexy" means "shop"!

The phrase “1,001 trifles” sounds a little different here.

As elsewhere, if people want to understand each other, they will understand. The main thing is to be open and be a person, then it will be intuitively clear that “liquid lamb” is “soup with meat”, and that it is better to refuse the offer of hot young men to “make friends” in the evening just in case.

1. The most important word among the Eastern peoples is "friend" ( dost). Use it as often as possible, like a derivative of it dostluk which means "friendship".
2. salam- "Good afternoon", halalik- "goodbye".
3. Word " Azadlig” - “freedom” is very common: freedom avenue, freedom street, freedom radio and so on.
4. Choh sagol- "Thank you".
5. Menim khoshuma galir…- "I like…".
6. Pshchik- "cat".
7. Bahadir- "very expensive".
8. Lazet- "pleasure", for example, cutlet lazet- "cutlets are just a buzz."
9. Menim adyn… - "my name is...".
10. Duddle- "tasty".

Treat people well, try to say at least a few words in their language, and the result will surprise you, and the trip will turn out to be special and very personal!

Features of the mentality

Azerbaijanis are very pleasant people. Personally, I remember most of all two of their features: incredible hospitality and respect for elders. As one respectable old man in Baku told me, his son, who turned 50 this year, still does not smoke in his presence.

The elderly will always be helped; to imagine an aged father or mother who will be given to a nursing home is impossible here.

It is curious that until now, in many families of Azerbaijan, parents recommend a marriage partner to their daughter and son. And many do follow this advice, but not always out of respect for their parents, and sometimes because they prefer to take the path of least resistance. Nevertheless, there is always a choice, especially in cosmopolitan Baku, and if a girl wants to make a career and not get married at 25, then she will do it, although not without pressure from the outside.

Relations with girls are a sore subject for young Azerbaijanis: dating for a long time without getting married is not encouraged, civil marriage is very rare and condemned. As a French tourist I met told me, one day they went to a club to dance, thinking that, like in any European club, you can have fun and meet girls, and were very surprised that only men were dancing in the club. "Why do you come here?" - the guys asked in bewilderment. "Dance," was the answer.

But do not forget that Azerbaijan is a Muslim country, and the men here are "hot", so if you are a girl, then avoid very revealing clothes and inappropriate coquetry.

On the whole, the attitude towards girls is respectful, but since the world is eastern, even in restaurants we were offered a separate room, which here is called an “office”. Not because it's dangerous, but because it's more comfortable.

I have the best memories of the people of Azerbaijan, and especially about their amazing tact, when, unlike annoying merchants, as often shown in the movies, people respectfully and with an open heart strive to help, but if you show that everything is fine and help is not needed, no one will bother, and you will be left in peace.

Food and drink

Azerbaijan is a country that combines historical, natural and gastronomic tourism. I have not seen such an abundance of delicious food for a long time: a variety of snacks, pickles, meat and fish delicacies, soups, sweets and fruit and vegetable dishes.

The drinks

As in any oriental cuisine, drinks are popular here. from dairy products.

By the way, the locals advise to eat a lot of fried fat tail with abundant libations, as it is not only tasty, but also envelops the stomach and intoxication is not felt.

And, of course, without tea not a single meal is spared.

The tradition of eating

Equally tasty and satisfying you can have lunch or dinner in expensive restaurants and small eateries.

I was amazed by the breakfast. Usually, a morning meal involves something light and rather small, but here on the table at such an early hour there are cheese, fresh bread, thick jam, homemade cream, eggs and even cabbage rolls!

If you are lucky enough to be invited to visit, then delicious dishes will be generously flavored with incredible Azerbaijani hospitality.

5 dishes worth trying

shopping

Azerbaijan is a very original country, which means that in the pursuit of souvenirs, you can stumble upon very interesting things here. Of course, Baku also has modern shopping centers and giant malls, but, like everywhere in the East, real treasures lurk in the shadows of narrow streets: in workshops, shops and small markets.

What you need to know about shopping in this country

As in any eastern country, the purchase of goods is a game, and without bargaining, the game is not interesting to either the buyer or the seller. A foreigner may be told a deliberately high price, but if you have learned a few words from my list and are familiar with the culture of the East, then bargaining will help you drop the price, and sometimes even several times.

In local small shops, guests are offered tea and sweets absolutely free of charge, and during the selection process, you can hear interesting stories from seasoned dealers in antique treasures.

The range of souvenirs worth bringing from Azerbaijan is very wide: from crumbly fragrant spices to national slippers, from tea bowls to carpets, from ceramics and leather goods to real black caviar. More about them below.

The best cities for shopping

The best cities for shopping are Baku, Sheki and Lahij.

I tend to buy few souvenirs and usually choose inexpensive and memorable crafts that do not take up much space, can be used in everyday life and, of course, the choice falls only on those things that are filled with memories of this country. But there are also such travelers for whom shopping is boutiques.

The infrastructure of Baku will also please parents:

• it is a pleasure to walk along the long embankment with a stroller,
• in shopping malls there are children's entertainment centers,
• and on the streets of the city there are playgrounds for the smallest.

As always, if you are traveling with children, be sure to take what you are used to with you, especially medicines.

You can easily find diapers and baby food in Azerbaijani stores.

Security

Azerbaijan in general and Baku in particular are quite safe. The capital is well patrolled and well lit. The crime rate in the country is very low. Of course, you should not lose your head and forget about all the existing precautions. Behave with restraint and respect, do not be afraid of the locals, and almost 100% that nothing will happen to you.

Girls can also safely travel around Azerbaijan, but sometimes they may feel a slight discomfort because, in principle, this is not accepted in this part of the world, and therefore it is surprising.

Remember that what is normal behavior for us can be perceived as coquetry in the conservative East. I've only encountered respect, and although you can sometimes get a cryptic offer, it's up to you: if you behave with dignity, the Azerbaijanis will never take violent action.

at (1 hour 10 minutes and 80 USD);

in Tehran(1.5 hours and 60 USD).

Money

National currency of Azerbaijan - manat (AZN).

For 1 AZN they give about 0.6 USD.

The largest bill is 100 AZN, which is approximately 60 USD or 50 EUR.

Cash euros, dollars and rubles can be exchanged at numerous currency exchange offices. Of course, as elsewhere, we must remember that the most unfavorable exchange rate is found at airports, train stations and tourist places.

Exchange offices offer a higher rate for dollars and euros, the direct exchange rate of the ruble is slightly lower.

An interesting trend has been observed recently. Increasingly, information about travel to the former republics of the USSR began to slip. On the one hand, it is interesting to look at the life of our neighbors, and on the other hand, the dollar has not returned to 35 rubles, and travel lovers are constantly looking for a reasonable alternative to expensive trips.
Azerbaijan appeared in my travel wish-list relatively recently. We can say that spontaneously. Quite by chance, I found out that every year on May 10, a grand flower festival is held in Baku. "Why not" - I thought and set up daily monitoring of the cost of air tickets in the desired direction.
So… How to plan a trip to Azerbaijan? What to pay attention to first of all when going to Baku?

1. Facilitated visa regime

Russians do not need a visa for a tourist trip for less than 90 days. At the border, they do not ask for hotel reservations, medical insurance or material support. Only a passport is required.
If you stay in Azerbaijan for more than 10 days, you will need to register with the migration service. However, the hotel can easily handle this issue.
Here it is the first plus - ease of entry into the country and savings on a visa.

2. Airport

The main air gate of the country is the Baku airport named after Heydar Aliyev. S7, Utair and Aeroflot fly from Russia to Baku. Also, regular flights are operated by Azerbaijan Airlines.
In order to "catch" interesting flight prices, it is most convenient to subscribe to Aviasales. My tickets cost me 12,500 rubles, but, for example, now there are “delicious” air tickets Moscow - Baku for October 2016 - March 2017 for 6,700 rubles. (round-trip fare).
Express bus H1 runs from the airport to the city center. This is the best transfer option. A ticket costs only 1.3 manats and is bought from a special vending machine. The express stops right in front of the arrivals terminal.

3. Hotel

Everything is fine with housing in Baku. If you like to feel at home while traveling - choose AirBnb, if you don't like making your bed - book a hotel on Booking or through any other booking site.
I recommend renting accommodation closer to the old city (Icheri Sheher), and even better - within walking distance. Hotels in the historical part cost decent money, so for the sake of saving money, you can consider a hostel for living (about 18 manats per day).

4. Time difference

The difference is small, only 1 hour, but it is there. When it is 7 am in Moscow, it is already 8 am in Baku. It is better to immediately translate all the clocks to local time so as not to get confused.

5. Currency exchange

The national currency of Azerbaijan is manat. The current rate is ≈ 45 rubles for 1 manat, but the rate is not stable now, so it is better to clarify the information just before the trip.
You can safely travel to Azerbaijan with rubles. Here is the second positive point.
Of course, both dollars and euros will be easily exchanged for you, but buying currency in Russia and exchanging it in Baku, you can lose on the difference in rates.
As such, exchangers have been abolished in Azerbaijan. Money can only be exchanged at the bank. If you arrive in Baku on the eve of weekends or holidays, be sure to play it safe and exchange money at the airport. There's a pretty decent exchange rate.
There are a lot of ATMs in Baku, almost at every step. In extreme cases, you can withdraw cash there.
Two currency exchange points are open on weekends:

1. Bank of the Republic, near the funicular (practically on the seaside boulevard)
2. on Fuzuli street, not far from May 28 square.

6. Public transport

Baku has two large metro lines and many buses. A one-time trip costs only 0.2 manats. Translated into rubles - about 10 rubles. The third obvious plus!
The metro uses special cards of two types. Plastic for 2 manats and paper (disposable) for 0.2 manats. It is profitable to buy a card for 4 trips, the total cost of the card will cost 1 manat.

Buses in Baku are different. In more modern "models" payment is made by the same transport card. In older buses, including intercity ones, the driver needs to pay for the fare.
funicular name public transport You can't, but it works absolutely free. It's nice, damn it. :)

7. Food

The religion of the country leaves some imprint on local cuisine. For example, in Azerbaijan they do not eat pork, but there are a lot of lamb dishes on the menu. For Russian people, Azerbaijani cuisine will not seem very specific, because many dishes have been known to us since childhood - dolma, pilaf, kebab.
Be sure to try qutab - a flatbread stuffed with meat, herbs or cheese. It is served in almost any cafe and costs 0.5 - 1 manat.
In Baku, they drink tea from such small glass cups called "armud". If you are offered jam for tea, first ask about its cost.
In many cafes you can pay with a bank card, but it is better to play it safe and always have some cash with you.

8. Security

It so happened that I went to Azerbaijan alone. I can safely say that Baku is a safe city for a girl. Azerbaijanis are very friendly to tourists - they suggest the way, the best bus routes and just communicate with pleasure. They are sure to be interested in what city you came from and have heard well not only about Moscow and St. Petersburg. :)
And also, there are a lot of policemen on the streets in Baku.

9. Language barrier

He is not. :) Absolutely everyone understands the Russian language and at least a little bit is explained in it. I didn't have to use my meager knowledge of English at all.
This is a huge positive moment for those who are afraid to go to independent travel due to lack of knowledge of the language.

10. Local color. Sights of Baku

Baku surprises with its architectural mix. The heart of the city is Icheri Sheher (old city). Such lovely narrow streets where Nikulin cursed and fell, and then Mironov. Here you need to dissolve and just get lost. Just do not forget to look into the local souvenir shops, they are here with the thinnest touch of antiques.

What to do in the old city? Be sure to climb the Maiden Tower, look into the art salon of local artist Ali Shamsi and take a cinematic shot near the cherished door "damn it". And you can also go to the old bathhouse and look into the unique Miniature Book Museum.