Peak horseman. Report on the ascent to Djigit Peak Dzhigit routes

The long and infinitely beautiful southern ridge of the Issyk-Kul basin is crowned by the Dzhigit ice massif with the peak of the same name. Among other no less majestic snowy peaks of the Terskaya ridge, Albatross and Brigantine stand out, and peak Djigit rises above them like a true national batyr. If you take a look at the endless expanses of ice, untouched snowdrifts covered with a snow blanket, you can notice the ornate bends of the Karakol Pass adjacent to the Vostochny Kultor glacier.

And on the other side of the Dzhigit peak is the Epur pass, which has the third category of difficulty and leads through the main ridge to the picturesque Karakoltor valley. The Dzhigit peak itself, covered with long tongues of hundred-year-old ice, beckons with a mysterious mountain cave within which eternal darkness reigns. When entering the cave, you need to be as careful as possible, for fear of subsidence of snow layers. In the place where the tongues of the Western Kultor glacier begin to disappear, unique bog mushrooms form with small inclusions of rock embankments and debris. And small stones frozen into the ice contribute to the formation of so-called ice glasses, constantly flooded with water. The tongues of the glacier themselves are dotted with multiple dangerous cracks and unpredictable snow cover, which can sink in the most unexpected places. Therefore, climbing a glacier is always carried out by climbers in a bundle, securing and supporting each other.

In the west of the Terskey Ala-Too ridge, the peak of Dzhigit itself flaunts, which is the third largest peak of this mountain range after the Karakol peak and. The majestic Dzhigit to the east is followed by a string of other peaks: Albatross, Hristo Botev peak and Brigantine, which together create an indescribable snow-mountain landscape of icy peaks.

Several difficult and difficult passes lead to the great Kultor through the main ridge, as well as through the ridges adjacent to Terskey on the southern sides.

The pass "Sun" runs from the western glacier of the Kultor peaks to the eastern one. This route is mainly used for short-term, most often one-day training, since when laying the main route, tourist groups go through the Kultor river valley without climbing the Solntsevo pass.

The glacier adjoins the Dzhigit glacier in striking proximity, which you can climb through the Ontor pass or, as it is also called, the First pass. The ascent starts along the leveled side of the glacier, but after a while the slopes of the glacier become steeper and steeper, more and more often there are glacial cracks, so experienced climbers bypass this area along the northern rocks.

But having risen to the pass, before the tired climbers, an indescribable beauty opens up to the view of the Karakol pass. It leads south through the Terskey Range to the headwaters of the Karakoltor River. To the Karakol pass itself, it is better to move carefully along the not steep glacial tongue of the Eastern Kultor, bypassing dangerous places and calculating the time spent on snow ice. The route of the pass is very dangerous, often there are deep ice cracks covered with a small layer of snow. On the pass itself there is a deep pit, the depth of which reaches 5 meters. This section is considered one of the most dangerous, because you have to cut steps along the vertical slope of the pit to go through this section of the path. Powerful snow cornices hang a little further, so the descents often start in a different place, skirting the dangerous area on the east side. Following each other in a safety rope, stepping in zigzags and holding on to the railing attached to the rocks, you can carefully and slowly descend after such a memorable ascent. And then for a long time to remember how on the pass itself one could see in all its grandeur the unique beauty panorama of Dzhigit Peak, which dazzlingly shone with impregnable ice under the cold mountain sun.

Labyrinths of snowy passes, overcoming mountain ledges and impenetrable rocky paths can give an unforgettable experience to those pioneers who decided to conquer the high and proud peak of the majestic Terskey at all costs. These hikes and ascents are associated not only with a sense of danger and the ability to respond to one’s own challenge, but also such a touching mountain romance, a sense of the secrets of the universe and contemplation of the true beauties of nature. Issyk-Kul, which, due to their impregnability, will never be spoiled by the intervention of man-made processes. That is why it is so precious and so reverent to realize that these mighty peaks of moraine ice were conquered by an ordinary person in climbing crampons and with an ordinary ice ax.

Dzhigit Peak

The second highest peak in the Issyk-Kul region (5170 m.). The peak is located next to the highest peak of the Issyk-Kul region, Karakol peak. Route difficulty category 4A. The breathtaking view and the opening panorama of the eternal ice attract tourists from all over the world. A guide with extensive climbing experience and knowledge of the area will give basic lessons and rules of behavior on the slope!

Day 1

Meeting at the Manas airport. Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation in a guest house, dinner.

Day 2

Meeting at the guest house, after a hearty breakfast. (1800 m.) Transfer by car to the Karakol gorge, before the start walking route. The beginning of the approach under the Dzhigit peak from a height of 2,250 m to the Chon Tash transshipment camp. (2 600 m.). Lunch on the road. Overnight in tents. Dinner.

Day 3

Early breakfast. Trek under the On-Tor glacier (3150 m.). Lunch on the road. Setting up the camp. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 4

Breakfast. Climbing the On-Tor glacier and setting up a base camp at an altitude of 4250 m at the Kettle site. Lunch on the road. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 5

Acclimatization day. Cost The guide will teach you the rules of behavior on the slope. Lunch. It is necessary to prepare an itinerary and hold a briefing. Practical and theoretical classes. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 6

Early breakfast, early exit. Climbing Djigit Peak (5170 m)! Lunch on the road. After conquering the summit, we will descend to the base camp "Teapot" 4250 m. Dinner.

Day 7

Breakfast. Descent along the Karakol gorge to Chon-Tash camp 2600 m. Lunch on the way. Setting up the camp. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 8

Breakfast. Return to Karakol. Lunch. After a 4-hour descent, a transport will be waiting for us, which will take us back to the guest house. Dinner. Overnight in a guest house.

Day 9

Spare day in case of bad weather.

Day 10

Breakfast. Transfer to Manas airport, completion of the program.

Required personal equipment:

It is necessary to bring warm clothes, a change of clothes, hiking and spare shoes, a rain jacket, sunglasses, sunscreen. If you have a specific illness, you should carry your own first aid kit with the necessary medicines.

Mountain boots, crampons, harness, 5 carabiners, ice axe, helmet.

Bivy gear:

Clothing based on temperature from -5 to +20

To the website

Terskey Alla-Too

Peak Karakolsky and Peak Dzhigit. Brief overview of the area.
How to get there. Who will help.

The material was compiled by climbers from Kyrgyzstan at the request site

Ridge Terskey Alla-Too located in the Central Tien Shan, on the territory of modern Kyrgyzstan. The ridge limits Lake Issyk-Kul from the south and extends from Semenov Peak (Sary-Dzhaz Ridge) to the Chu River for almost 400 km. From a climbing point of view, the central part of Alla-Too, between the Tuz-Ashuu and Dzhuku passes, is of great interest. Here are the routes of almost all categories from 1 to 6a (on our famous Dzhigit). Most of the routes are of the 4th and 5th category of difficulty, there are both combined, ice-snow and rock routes. Almost all peaks are over 4000 meters high, but there are also three five-thousanders (Big Ak-su peak, Karakolsky peak and Dzhigit peak).

From the city of Karakol to base camp drive 25 km. The area of ​​the Ayu-Tor gorge is accessible from the base camp, the approach to the parking lot takes 3-4 hours. From the parking lots under the routes approaches 1-2 hours. In this gorge, the routes are mainly 2, 3, 4 grades, but there are also four rocky fives. All routes in the area run in one day. In the remaining two areas - under the top of Dzhigit (5170m) and the peak of Karakol (5281m), the approach to the parking takes 5 - 6 hours, from the stops to the route - 1 hour. In both these areas, routes are mainly 4-5 k.tr. On Dzhigit peak there are routes 6a k.tr., for the passage of which gold medals were received at the USSR Championship. These were the teams of I. Slesov (1975), D. Sharashenidze (1976), V. Vakurin (1983). In addition, almost all routes to Karakol Peak were completed at the Union Championship in the intramural, technical class. In general, in the Terskey Alla-Too ridge there are several hundred routes entered into the classifier to 141 peaks of the region.

KSP no, we have organized our rescue team, but it has not yet gained its full strength. Communication - walkie-talkies are better to take with you. The best time for climbing in our area is July, August, early September. July, August - the weather is usually good in the morning, it rains in the evening, the weather is good again at night. September - the weather is almost clear, but a little colder.

Who drives through us, then problems with local practically none, because we ourselves are local.

Concerning products- if someone specifically will call on us, we will first give a detailed list of products that we have on the market, and prices for them, as well as exchange rates.
For instance:
loaf of bread - 10 cents,
1kg of sugar - 55-60 cents,
1 kg of meat - 1 dollar 30 cents,
1 liter of gasoline - 35-40 cents,
1 dollar equal to 50 Kyrgyz soms.

Politics- everyone is quite loyal to visiting tourists. By the way, recently the official language in Kyrgyzstan is Russian.

Transport:
bus Bishkek - Karakol (state) 3-4 US$ per person;
minibus 4-5 US$ per person;
taxi 6-7 US$ per person.

We can provide:
shift shift Gaz-66, 16 seats;
UAZ 469, 6 seats;
Volkswagen Jetta, 4 passenger seats.
Walkie-talkies: 3 pieces "Angara", 2 pieces - "Tais" (portables).
For those who wish, there are porters - in any quantity.
Paperwork, OViR marks, border passes, permits to the Alps and tourist zones - through us without problems, in a short time.

We are travel agency "Alp-Tour-Issyk-Kul", Khanin Igor Viktorovich

You can find us:
Kyrgyz Republic, Issyk-Kul region, Karakol city, Brick factory, 61-1.
Tel. 3922 2-05-48, tel-fax 3922 5-01-63.
Travel agency "Alp-Tour-Issyk-Kul",
director - Gorbacheva Larisa Viktorovna, Khanin Igor Viktorovich.

Wrote a report on ours. One with numbers, diagrams and photographs. So that it does not gather dust in the archives of any commissions, I will post it here, maybe someone will be interested.

Climbing passport

1. District, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.44а
2. Peak name, route name: Dzhigit in the center of the northern wall
3. Difficulty category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation difference: 1200 meters
   Route length: 1400 meters
   Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°
   Average steepness of the entire route: 60°
6. Route used:
   • hooks - 90 pieces
   • embedded elements - 100 pieces
   • ice screws - 18 pieces
   • stationary bolts - 15 pieces, including for ATO - 5 pieces
   • Hooks left on the route - no
7. Team running hours: 40, 3½ days
8. Head: Belotserkovsky Kirill Alexandrovich, CCM
   Participant: Ten Maxim Valentinovich, Candidate Master of Sports
9. Coach: Skopin Artyom Alekseevich, MS
10. Exit to the route: July 28, 2014 at 4 am
    Exit to the summit: July 31, 2014 at 12 noon
    Return to the base camp: July 31, 2014 at 18:00
11. Organization: FAiS RK

General photo of the peak

Characteristics of the area and the climbing object

Ridge Terskey Ala-Too is located in the north-east of Kyrgyzstan and limits the Issyk-Kul basin from the south. The average height of the ridge is 4500 meters above sea level, and the maximum height is 5281 meters (Peak Karakolsky). The length of the ridge in the latitudinal direction is about 400 kilometers. The Terskey Ala-Too ridge ranks second (after the Meridian ridge) in terms of glaciation in the Tien Shan. The glaciation area here is 1081 square kilometers. Massive glaciation and the proximity of a large lake are the causes of unstable weather in the area.

Dzhigit Peak (5170 meters)- the second highest peak of the region - located in the upper reaches of the Kultor River. The easiest route is along the western ridge (S. Silchenko, 1966) 4A. He is also a descender.
Of greatest interest are the northern and northwestern walls. And if routes of the fifth category pass along the northwestern wall, then “sixes” mainly pass along the northern wall: D. Sharashanidze 1976 V. Vakurina 1983, I. Slesova 1975(first place in the USSR championship in the technical class), A. Ryabukhin 1965. On all routes, rocks alternate with ice. The rocks are mostly monolithic.

Cracks are often filled with snow or ice. There are no convenient shelves on the wall, so you have to prepare places for overnight stays: cut down ice, lay stones, etc. Comfortable overnight stays are only on the ridge.

Route I. Slesova has a combined character. We often had to switch from climbing on rocks to climbing on ice and then to a combination of both in different proportions. The first tried to make the most of free climbing on ice tools. There was almost no lasagna in the usual sense of the word. The constant use of tools on the rocks was dictated by both the features of the relief (rocks covered with ice) and the bad weather that accompanied us every day.

The first one worked with a lightweight backpack, the second one moved on jumars and carried bivouac equipment.

Technical description of the route

Approach from the place of overnight stay along the open glacier in the direction of the right part of the icefall in the lower part of the wall. The passage in the icefall, after a long observation, was chosen in the evening, as it presents a certain difficulty. Contacted before the start of a gentle ice slope. We tried to pass the icefall as quickly as possible, along the way there were fresh pieces of ice.


R1-R2 Access to the ice slope under the bergschrund. First, along steep ice covered with a thick layer of loose snow, then traverse to the left along the ice shelf.
R2-R3 Approach on plain ice under the bergschrund.
R3-R4 Overcoming the bergschrund. An overhanging ice wall, in some places covered with a thick layer of loose snow. We had to dig a trench in the snow, using ice screws to organize ATO.
R4-R5 Movement to the right-up in the direction of a steep ice couloir.
R5-R6 Along alternating walls and shelves at an internal corner with ice smudges. According to him, complex drytooling / ITO up.
R6-R7 Right-up along the walls-shelves filled with ice, towards the inner corner. To the left of it, judging by the bolts, you can spend the night.
R7-R8 Difficult climbing on an inside corner.
R8-R9 Climbing / Aiding up the corner. The weather began to deteriorate: it snowed, the wind blew.
R9-R10 To the top, the corner is twisted. Basically IT. Station on a local bolt, interlocked with something of his own.
R10-R11 Along the ice shelf and the rocky inner corner to the top of the spall. There is a shelf 1 × 1½ meters. Uncomfortable sitting overnight.
R11-R12 Descent to the ice ledge, traverse to the right. Then move up the inner corner with ice. Cold. Basically IT.
R12-R13 Alternation of walls-shelves with ice. The climb is relatively easy.
R13-R14 Confident AID up the wall to the right of the eaves.
R14-R15 Up until flattening out. It is snowing.
R15-R16 Movement up moderately difficult rocks filled with ice.
R16-R17 The same.
R17-R18 Through the rocky step to the ice ridge.
R18-R19 On a simple ice slope up to the rocks. By this time visibility had dropped to 10 meters. Strong wind, heavy snowfall. Everything is ready for an overnight stay.
They cut out a shelf in the ice (by bending the blade on one of the tools along the way). Semi-recumbent overnight stay.
R19-R20 Upward movement along the most logical terrain.
R20-R21 Slightly to the left-up to the overhanging wall with a bolt path. After it, traverse to the right, then up the steep inner corner.
R21-R22 Left-up along the steep wall to the destroyed (but soldered by ice) rocks. Perhaps this section can be bypassed if you leave the station to the right, and not to the left.
R22-R23 Climbing steep, sometimes overhanging rock feathers frozen into ice. Despite the steepness, climbing is not too difficult. Drytooling.
R23-R24 On gentle rocks to the right-up. On the way I met an old bolter. The station is just below the rocky ridge. The weather began to deteriorate.
R24-R25 Along the rocky ridge and further along the rocks filled with ice.
R25-R26 On rocks covered with ice and snow, up under a small ledge. Very strong wind, snowfall. Visibility is severely limited. Dust avalanches constantly pass through the cornice.
R26-R27 From under the eaves to the left-up along the rocky inner corner and further along the steep snow-ice slope to the ridge. On the slope, we never managed to get to the bottom of normal ice, so it was not possible to organize insurance. A small shelf was cut down on the ridge and a tent was set up. Comfortable overnight stay.
R27-R28 In conditions of poor visibility 200 meters along a snow-ice ridge with eaves to a short rocky step.
R28-R29 Descent 5 meters.
R29-R30 250 meters along the ridge with huge cornices to the top dome. On the highest point they didn’t go out, since it was most likely a cornice.

Team tactical actions

July 28th At 4 o'clock in the morning we went to the ascent. We passed the icefall and began to work on the route, which is steep cliffs interspersed with patches of ice. The whole second half of the day it was snowing, accompanied by wind. By 18 o'clock the bad weather intensified, and we decided to get up for the night. We spent the night sitting in a tent on a small ledge (1×1½ meters).

July 29 it snowed all day, but despite this, by 19:00 we reached the snow-ice ridge before the start of the second steep rocky part. To organize an overnight stay, a part of the ice ridge had to be cut down. Slept half-lying.

July 30 the weather was satisfactory for most of the day. Thanks to this and the fact that the terrain, despite the preserved steepness, has become easier, we managed to reach the ridge. We got to the ridge in deep twilight and in conditions of very strong bad weather. They cut down part of the ridge, set up a tent.

July 31 reached the summit along a ridge with large snow cornices. We took pictures and started descending. After 5 hours we were on the glacier. Through the On-Tor pass we reached our camp under the wall, where we camped for the night.