Providence bay village. Providence Bay. Chukotka, photo, nature, history, description of Providence Bay in Chukotka. Providence Bay on video

Basov for laziness and inaction in the field of writing, photographing and publishing all this, he decided that it was still time to end the silence regime and write something. Moreover, the reason is quite appropriate. My Providensky, already established in the "work-home-weekend-work" format, was violated by Evgeny, and remembering last year's plans to climb Beklemishev, it was decided that on June 21 at 9-00...

A couple of days earlier, Basov presented his second (by no means the last) book, on the last page of which, among other worthy gentlemen, my name was modestly tucked in. I never thought that it could easily happen to be printed like this, but I won’t refuse yet! Therefore, you need to shoot!
Beklemisheva is perhaps the most important peak in the group of hills surrounding Emma Bay. according to it, the seers judge whether there will be a flight to Anadyr today (is it visible or not visible?) Or will they have to continue to sit on their suitcases. This is also the most visited hill, due to the presence of a road leading to the very top. At the same time, even having lived in Providence all their lives, many manage to never visit it. And when they hear about a pedestrian climb to it, and even not along the road, but on the forehead, do not hesitate to put their index finger to the temple and begin to twist it from side to side =).
At 9 in the morning we were dropped off at the territory of the former border detachment in Ureliki, from which only a single 5-storey building remained. Having passed along the spit that separates a small lagoon from the bay, we find the first obstacle - a stream. Deciding that it would take too long to walk around, we proceed by taking off our shoes.

1. You can still cross the second stream over the old wooden bridge...

2. Further, a road made of wooden (sometimes iron) flooring leads to the abandoned outpost.

3. View from behind.

4. Outpost.

5. We climb the watchtower. The design is quite strong, but we walk on the flooring with caution. Below is a gallery leading from one building to another, reminiscent of a greenhouse. Inside the gallery is still up to the waist of snow.

6. Omsk they are everywhere
...

7. There is a shooting range / shooting range nearby. They fired at moving targets. Barrels stuffed with stones in a sieve..
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8. On this, the horizontal part of the ascent ends and we begin to climb a little. We go not in the forehead, but diagonally, bypassing the top of the nearby hill, gradually gaining height. There is no point in climbing high - there should be a gap ahead. I don't want to lose height. We reach the descent.

After a short break, the main ascent begins. By this time, I begin to understand that I can not escape being burned =). Underpants, taken due to excessive (burns noticeably) foresight, become a turban.

9. Some time after the start of the ascent, the first signs of an excellent view from above appear. Emma Bay begins to be seen from behind the slope of the neighboring hill.


10. The climb, which seemed rather steep from the outside, is actually not so scary. But all the same, almost every 30-40 meters of ascent is a halt. Basov, of course, is not satisfied with such a speed, approximately in the middle of the ascent, he goes into the gap. I always thought that you need to climb at least in pairs - if something didn’t work out. But on reflection, I decide that it's even better. He does not need to sit on the rocks for a long time waiting for me to catch up with him, and I do not need to try to keep up with the experienced. Therefore, in my rhythm, I puff upward in zigzags ... the time has come for moral and strong-willed ones.

11. After some time, the target becomes visible upward - the antenna.

12. Got there. We decide to have a snack. After a bite of cognac and grapefruit, discussing the situation in the world, etc., etc., we begin the tour.

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14. Providence Bay

15. The sea is not visible - there is a continuous veil of fog above the water, which, entering the bay with thin feathers, rises higher and becomes clouds.

16. A village is visible in the distance.

17. Abandoned ruins of Urekiov. Territory of the border detachment recultivated last summer.

18. Cape of the Century.

19. Some more antennas.

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21. Inside the building, on the wall of the rest room, there is a good panel of the rhythms of the national stage.

22. Eugene climbs to install the flag of the "Guardians of Chukotka"

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25. While I was looking for a wire for fastening the flag, I saw a toilet like a toilet. Closet on the edge of the earth.

26. After wandering a little more, we find an excellent lounge area. Sit down. They collected melt water, which flows into the tank. Icy.

27. On the way back, Eugene decides to take a walk to Cape Puzina through another hill. I don't have enough for that. I will go down and wait for him on the spit from which we started the ascent. Taking a bottle of water from him, he went on his way. There are hundreds of streams along the way. Many of them are only heard from under the stones, but are not visible. Bubbling everywhere.

I'm going down to the airport. I decide to go around the lagoon on the other side, because going back through the shooting range is now a detour for me. On the way to the stream that feeds the lagoon, I understand that the narrow stream that seemed from above is actually quite a river. Even on the approach to it, the stones under their feet were replaced by a sponge-marsh something and the boots, already wet, were now soaked through with water. Having jumped over the river, once again soaking my feet, I continue my way to the spit. On the way to the gathering place - call. Eugene will be in 15 minutes. I sit on some boxes, take off my boots. Drying off. Having dried a little, and bored from doing nothing, I begin to shoot the fauna. The fauna is not too willing to get any close.

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30. When the fauna ended, it was the turn of the surrounding inanimate nature.

31. A few minutes later, Basov appears, somewhat delayed. The car is already following us. I'm going to Ureliki.

Chukotka. Providence bay.

To be honest, I even doubted whether to spread it. But there are pictures, maybe someone will find it interesting.
36 photos + some text.

What kind of village is this, and where did it even come from? Here's what Vicki says.
After the discovery of Providence Bay in 1660 by the Russian expedition of Kurbat Ivanov, fishing and wintering of whaling and merchant ships began to be regularly carried out here. At the beginning of the 20th century, with the beginning of the development of the Northern Sea Route, a coal warehouse was organized on the coast of the bay to replenish the fuel reserves of ships heading to the Arctic, and by 1934 the first buildings of the future seaport appeared here, which became the city-forming for the village of Provideniya.

In 1937, with the arrival of a caravan of ships with building materials, the Providenstroy enterprise began active construction of the port and the village, and at the end of 1945, the Kamchatka Regional Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks adopted a resolution on the creation "in the Chukotsky District of the workers' settlement of Provideniya on the basis locality Glavsevmorputi in the Bay of Providence.

On May 10, 1946, the Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR on the formation of the village of Provideniya was issued, which is considered the official date of the foundation of the settlement.

The village continued to quickly deteriorate, this was facilitated by the relocation of military units here. In 1947, the first public building, a canteen, was built.

And Vicki tells us that ..
Until the end of the 1980s, about 6,000 people lived in the village, but in the 1990s, in connection with the mass relocation of residents to the mainland, the administrative merger of two villages took place - Ureliki and Provideniya. The initiator of such enlargements was the then governor Roman Abramovich.
Well, well, I'll show you the Ureliki too.

Sobsno we were there not for pictures, but for work. Sounding in the bay, topographical and geodetic works. So there are no normal, tourist photos at all. There was simply no time.

In the village itself, too, rarely went. To the store if only, but they have prices .. Well, to the bathhouse on Wednesdays and Sundays.

The village, if anything, is also Providence. The most interesting thing they have there is a museum. The museum is small, but people who love it work there, you can see it right away. Naturally, the prices for souvenirs are in dollars, since Alaska is very close, and American cruisers often come by.

Yes, Russians and Chukchis and Evenks live there too.. But this is not Pevek, all local representatives of small nationalities are drunkards for the most part. No deer, no national clothes, no color. All that is, only in the museum.

Whaling gun. They even let us hold him. Heavy pancake, 11-odd kilos. Earlier, they say, whales came into the bay, arranged holidays. We didn't see anything.

The photo really mirrors what is happening in Providence. Above and below on the newspaper is the same vessel.

Well, yes, it was worth going to Chukotka to see the chum in the museum ..

Okay, back to the village. At the exit from the port, we are met by an American SUV. Ours can do no worse, and even better. UAZ proves it. Uncle with a level from ours.

In fact, you can actually get used to it if you want. The administration, like everywhere else in small towns, is trying to work. They built a small sports complex, a swimming pool. There is a bus to the airport and the village. More precisely, a shift, but for lack of a stamp, as they say ..

They even have something like a holiday village. It's actually pretty cozy and a lot of fun. Although there is a problem with building materials.

Ouch! I didn't show you the port from the sea side. It's like night. Polar day.

As you can see, there are very few people. There used to be more.

And the port itself is rather big.

Looks better during the day. True, such sunny days are rare there. Very rarely. And it's still cold. Although we were there in July.

Ureliki, as promised. Sorry, but there are few photos. I do not like such "landscapes" in reality. Abramovich's leadership, yes. Once there were soldiers here (do not forget about Alaska).

Please delete, it happened by accident. I'm going to cut off my hands

Another one. By the way, people work there. Even Uzbeks and Tajiks were brought. They break everything there, demolish houses. And they wear it down pretty quickly.

Well, of these Abarmovichs, here are a few pictures from the hill. It is really very beautiful there, very clean air, beautiful sea. Well, it's cold, yes, it happens. This is the Bay of Providence from a height of approximately 430 meters above sea level.

It's hard to take pictures because of the fog. Especially the very bay of Providence. In Komsomolskaya (a bay within a bay) fogs come later and you can take a picture of something. For example, the long-suffering Ureliks.

You can go even higher by skiing. I didn't want to go down, to be honest. Bay Komsomolskaya 1.

2. The village of Providence itself is right up to me.

3. Ureliki. You can see the huge lake Istizhed. The water in it is fresh and coho salmon is found in it. Some kind of species listed in the Red Book. The lake is in the very right part of the photo, separated by a relatively narrow spit from the bay.

Fogs, what beautiful fogs there. True, in a month they got sick of it, since they are endless.

Hills and fogs.. View from the pier.

Whales entered the bay. The truth is uncommunicative. They didn’t want to be photographed, they refused to make acquaintances .. I only managed to take a picture of my back.

Sometimes they die there. Well, local whalers are somewhere in smaller villages. Those Eskimos, Chukchi and others who live according to their old traditions. After them, this is what remains (do not watch for the faint of heart).

And then this is what happens. The swimming pool is in the background.

Be satisfied.

I don't know if the writing is visible. When the hills turn green, you can definitely see. But we didn't wait.

Sometimes I don’t have enough communication, I just want to talk to someone. There are very few people in Chukotka. You can ride a motorcycle all day and not meet anyone. In principle, this suits me, I'm used to traveling alone. Sometimes you don’t say a word for several days of a trip, and I don’t like talking to myself.

I have been living in Chukotka since I was two years old, one might say, all my life, and I was born in the Krasnoyarsk Territory, on the Taimyr Peninsula. This is also the Far North. In general, I have lived in the Arctic all my life. Perhaps that is why my place of residence seems ideal to me. For example, when I am on vacation, in big cities I feel uncomfortable from all this fuss around. I want to return home to Chukotka as soon as possible.

You will hardly meet non-locals at home. There are tourists, of course, but mostly foreigners come on cruise ships: they wander in crowds around the village for several hours and then sail further. I think it is very problematic for an ordinary tourist to get to the territory of Chukotka. Firstly, this is a border zone, and secondly, it is very expensive. Airplane is not the cheapest mode of transport. They fly here from Anadyr: once a month in winter and once a week in summer.

My main hobby is riding a motorcycle. I like to climb mountains, walk alone on the tundra and visit abandoned, dead towns, which we have had since the days of the Iron Curtain. On our side of the bay is the village of Provideniya, and on the opposite side is Ureliki, a dead and abandoned military town. I go there often, just wandering through the empty streets, looking into the gaping, broken windows of buildings.

This autumn I visited the local school, the building is in a very deplorable state, even though you can shoot a horror movie: broken glass is everywhere, water is dripping from the ceiling, the wind is walking along the corridors. I know some graduates of this school, they are already adults, sometimes they come to their school, but they can’t even get together in their own class. They sit in the yard, fry kebabs and complain that the meeting of graduates now has to be held on the street, since only walls remain from their native school.

Before, I was not afraid to wander through abandoned buildings, but now I feel fear. It seems as if there is something alive in these houses, so I completely stopped going into dark rooms: basements, long corridors and rooms without windows. But I am attracted to these houses, I like to wander around places that have no future: to visit old hunting and fishing houses.

It is always interesting for me when traveling to suddenly find an old house of geologists in the tundra. I love reading graffiti on the walls. For example: “Andrey Smirnov. Chukotka. Summer 1973". Questions immediately arise in my head: "Who was this Andrey? What did he do in Chukotka in 1973? How did his fate turn out, where is he now?" And so on. It all excites and interests me madly.

“Active construction of the village began in 1937. A caravan of ships from the Providenstroy enterprise arrived here. The first step was to build a port. At the end of 1945, the Kamchatka Regional Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks adopted a resolution on the creation of a workers' settlement of Provideniya in the Chukotka region. The settlement continued to develop rapidly, military units were relocated here. The first public building, the canteen, was built only in 1947.

From the memoirs of Lyudmila Adiatullina, Perm:

- My father, Vasily Andreevich Borodin, reached Prague during the war years. Then part of it was loaded onto trains and sent across Russia to the Far East to Providence Bay, where he served for another five years.

It was very difficult, for two years they lived in six-bladed tents, among rocky stone hills. Nars were made of stones, deer moss was placed on top. Four slept, and the fifth drowned the potbelly stove. In the morning, sometimes the hair froze to the tent. This tent city was covered with snow, people dug each other out, made catering units, officers' houses, defensive structures and even roads out of logs.

In the second year, little fuel was brought in, and in order not to freeze, the military looked for dwarf birch trees, uprooted them; they chipped bricks and soaked stones in barrels of kerosene. This has already stoked the stoves. It is good that the Chukchi suggested that there were coal mines developed by the Americans not far from the location of the unit. When they were asked to leave from there in 1925, they blew everything up and covered it with earth. The soldiers re-developed these mines in a primitive way, carried coal 30 km away in backpacks, on skis. And yet they survived.

Then we rode dogs and deer, rented them from the Chukchi. They sawed snow with saws, carried it on sledges and made water out of it. Only in the third year did they begin to build soldiers' barracks from wooden blocks. The barracks were large, for a division. There were no builders among the soldiers, but life taught everything. In 1950, in September, everyone was demobilized. For seven years they were not at home: two years - in the war and five years - in Chukotka.

The village of Providence itself is an ordinary northern port town with monuments of the devastation of the nineties, bad roads and kind, sympathetic people. Some come here just to earn a "northern" pension and get out. They do not understand the beauty of the North, it is for visitors - cold, snow and stones. Someone, on the contrary, is crazy about mountains, northern lights, whales, and other romance. I am just one of those people.

All the most interesting things are located outside our village: the base of sea hunters, the whale cemetery, the remains of military facilities, ancient Eskimo camps, hot underground springs. In the summer I go to the ocean on a motorcycle all the time, I like to go everywhere, climb the hills, wander through uncharted places.

And what kind of animals can you stumble upon! I saw: whales, seals, wolves, brown and polar bears, fox, arctic fox, wolverine, hare, eurage, ermine, lemming and a bunch of different birds. Only bears and wolves are dangerous to humans. A gun, I think, of course, is not an extra thing in the tundra, and just in wild nature but it just so happened that I managed without it all my life. Maybe I was lucky, just if I ran into bears, I was always on a transport, on a snowmobile or a motorcycle. But if you travel on foot, then it is better to take a gun or at least a rocket launcher: some kind of firecrackers to scare away predators.

One day I came across the wreckage of an airplane. Once I was driving along the shore of the lake and saw something on the slope of the hill. I climbed in - it turned out that this was an LI-2 aircraft. He crashed here in the seventies. At the bottom I saw a commemorative plaque and a sign. Many more aircraft wreckage can be found on the territory of military facilities. All this remains from the time of the Soviet army.

The mobile phone is here. The Internet, however, is expensive and very slow. That's why everyone is sitting in WhatsApp chats. A megabyte of mobile traffic costs nine rubles.

There is also no work. power plant, boiler room, border services, police, seaport and airport.

There are fifteen shops here. Everything is very expensive in them, because the goods are brought in by ships. What was thrown by the plane is even more expensive. Fruits and vegetables can cost 800-1000 rubles per kilogram, and those that were unloaded from ships are twice cheaper. Things - mostly Chinese rubbish from Vladivostok. I don’t buy them here at all, I order everything through online stores or buy on the mainland. So many do.

For children there is a garden, a school, a ski section, a sports complex. In general, you can live. Fans of the north of Providence will like it.