Ravenna on the map of the Roman Empire. Ravenna is a city of centuries-old history and a tribute to the Christian faith. Clubs and nightlife
The Romans, being a hardened and harsh people, never looked for easy ways - including when building their cities. Plain? In no case. An archipelago of small, half-submerged islands cut by natural channels? Yes! Moreover, the close proximity of the coast created excellent preconditions for creating a fleet. Who would have thought that after tens of centuries the situation would change completely, and Ravenna - a city that was created as a military port - would amaze not with the power of warships, but with unique examples of early Christian art.
Ravenna, like Venice, saw the light of day on marshy lands and in sea lagoons - to this day, many of the city's buildings contain the remains of those same wooden piles in their foundations. However, centuries passed as usual, and the ambitious plans of the Romans - who themselves no longer remained as such - sank into oblivion along with the wooden foundations of the houses. The land slowly regained its position, and by today the distance from the city to the sea is already 7 kilometers. However, during its heyday, Ravenna was considered one of the most impregnable cities, and therefore existed as the capital of the Western Roman Empire from the 5th to the 8th century AD. Later, the city fell into decline, experiencing some recovery only during the Renaissance - Dante himself spent the last years of his life here. And in 1860, Ravenna became part of the Italian kingdom, and from this period continues to live quietly and peacefully according to its own special laws of hospitality of small Italian towns.
The first impression when meeting Ravenna, I must say, is not one of the most charming to the soul and eyes. The sea of sweet speeches about the concentration of cultural and historical monuments, going beyond all reasonable limits, at first glance is absolutely not confirmed. A noisy station, unremarkable street development, the bustle of most European cities... However, it is worth moderating your ardor and looking at Ravenna a little differently, not from the generally accepted tourist point of view. Only then, having immersed yourself in the local atmosphere, will you be able to discover Ravenna with a capital “R” - a majestic city in the distant past, the capital of a dead empire, whose ghost haunts historians to this day.
The thing is that Ravenna is not nearly as luxurious as its sister Venice, located a little further north along the same Adriatic coast. When Ravenna was going through hard times, the city treasury did not have enough money for marble to decorate the buildings - which, in a sense, preserved it in its original form for future generations. Built of brick, it was not subject to the dismantling of valuable stones when cathedrals and palaces had to be built or restored in Milan or Rome. Therefore, local attractions really bear the imprint of the Middle Ages - a “dark” time, which, according to generally accepted opinion, reeks of something scary and gloomy. And although there is no smoke without fire (remember the Holy Inquisition), having visited Ravenna, you will understand that even such an era leaves behind something beautiful in history.
Ravenna street on a rainy day. Photo moitury.ru
In order to appreciate all this beauty with your own eyes, you need to be mentally prepared. When going on vacation to Ravenna, you need to clearly understand that this is not a party place, and you are coming here to touch eternity.
Of course, it is best to go to the opening of Ravenna by personal car. For travelers, the option of renting a car is available. By ordering a car in advance, while still at home, you can save a lot. “Italy in Russian” advises you to turn to the services of the popular giant service Rentalcars, multifunctional and simple, which will allow you to choose the most suitable car at home and receive it immediately upon arrival in Italy. For those who are accustomed to convenience, we recommend ordering a taxi in Ravenna with a Russian-speaking driver. You can select and order a taxi through the convenient Kiwitaxi service: You just need to choose where and where you need to get to. Here you can order a transfer from any airport in Italy. At the specified time, in the specified place, your personal driver will be waiting for you with a sign with your name.
It is best to start with the Church of St. Vitaly - perhaps the most interesting building in the city, founded in the 6th century. This brick octagon may look a little cumbersome. However, once you go inside, you will definitely never see anything like this in your life... The dome is supported by eight internal columns, around which there is a two-story walkway. On the vault there is a unique mosaic with biblical motifs. Between the pillars there are two-story arcades, curved towards the walls of the structure. This technique amazingly increases the internal space. It becomes completely incomprehensible to the human eye how so many interior details could fit into not the largest room. According to legend, this is where the ashes of St. Vitaly are located - the Alexandrian monk earned money through hard work, after which he went to a brothel. But not at all for what many thought - he gave what he received to fallen women so that they could improve their financial condition and no longer engage in their craft. When the monk died, dozens of former harlots came to honor his memory - after which all the residents of the city were convinced of the greatness of Vitaly’s spirit. Here, nearby, is the National Museum, which houses an extensive collection of coins from the Roman period, as well as unique examples of ivory carvings and ancient weapons. Across the road you can see a real monument from the 5th century - the mausoleum of Galla Placidia, a Roman princess. And although most historians are sure that Galla’s ashes are not here, this makes the appearance of the structure no less impressive. Carl Gustav Jung shared the same opinion. The great psychoanalyst was generally delighted with Ravenna - in no small part because of her mosaics, in which he saw a dialogue between the conscious and the unconscious. And he even wrote several works based on the “strange experience of Ravenna”.
The historic center of Ravenna is literally imbued with the spirit of the early Middle Ages - squat, powerful buildings stand out against the backdrop of small residential houses painted in soft colors, shops and cafes. For example, the Baptistery of Neoniano in Piazza Duomo. Among all the buildings that are decorated with Byzantine mosaics, this is the oldest. Countless baptism ceremonies for city residents were held here - you can personally examine the amazing ancient marble font. Nearby is the Archbishop's Palace, on the ground floor of which there is a museum of the same name. The most amazing and ancient exhibits (6th century) are the “Throne of Maximian”, made entirely of ivory and the silver Greek “Cross of St. Agnell”.
Baptistery of Neoniano. Photo artclassic.edu.ru
Well, now it’s time to head to the local cult site - the tomb of the great Dante Alighieri, Tomba di Dante. The marble walls and the image of the poet on the pulpit became the hallmark of Ravenna in Italy. The mausoleum was erected in the 15th century, only a century and a half after the death of the author of the Divine Comedy. Florence, where the poet was born, came to its senses a century later and began to demand the release of Dante’s remains. Ravenna - first of all the Franciscan monks - stood their ground and did everything not to give in. As a result, although the poet was not elevated to the rank of saint, the worship of his talent is quite comparable. Down the street are several ancient crypts with mosaic floors. Local enterprising citizens have turned this feature into a good source of income. In these crypts, due to their location, the floors are constantly flooded with water. For the opportunity to look at the mosaic floors of the lower floor, with goldfish swimming in the background, you will have to pay half a euro.
Dante's Tomb is one of the cult places of Ravenna. Photo: saga.ua
Ravenna would not be the “sister” of Venice if it were not for water. Despite the fact that the sea is quite distant from the city, no one has canceled the groundwater. They form entire lakes here, and the deep basements of many old houses are constantly filled with water. Oddly enough, this circumstance does not harm the condition of the buildings at all; on the contrary, experts say that draining swampy areas could cause great damage to the architectural fund. The water level in the basements of buildings ranges from 30 to 130 centimeters, and pumps for pumping are located only in the Church of St. Vitaly. In general, it’s quite original to see, for example, in the Church of San Francesco, a kind of “aquarium”.
The same “aquarium”. Photo panoramio.com
There is also a special attraction in Ravenna - the tomb of Theodoric. This building does not look like any of the many architectural monuments of the city. White, impregnable, in addition to its menacing appearance, it is also surrounded by a fence and automatic ticket control. The inspiration for this (not the fences and controls, but the monumental exterior) was the Ostrogoth king Theodoric. Following the principle of the Egyptian pharaohs, the royal person decided not to delay the final refuge, and to build it during her lifetime. This is perhaps the only building in the city built not from baked bricks, but from limestone - hence the white color, which is unusual for Ravenna. And the characteristics of the structure are also unique in their own way. Just look at the roof of the tomb alone - a huge stone slab specially brought from the other side of the Adriatic Sea, from Istria. A block with a diameter of 10.5 m and a height of 2.5 m was transported suspended between two ships. After this fact, the scale of the work becomes clear, which confirms the already proven truth: Italian architects are among the best in history.
Theodoric's tomb illuminated by the setting sun. Photo photo.tut.ua
The only – and quite significant – disappointment awaits in Ravenna those who wish to view the city’s sights from the highest points. Despite the fact that there are quite a lot of campanillas (i.e. towers) in the city, they are closed to tourist visits. So you will have to look for other ways, fully using your own imagination.
Today's Ravenna is practically no different from other small towns in the Italian North: the center is filled with offices and shops, schools, kindergartens and other infrastructure are located outside the historical part. There is not much greenery here - the exception is the city park and the boulevard next to the station. However, there is no point in belittling the dignity of the city either. There are small joys here, unique only to Ravenna. Evening walks along the atmospheric ancient streets, an obligatory cup of strong coffee, a visit to miniature squares where small flower and vegetable markets operate - contemplation of modern Ravenna brings no less pleasure than the great past of this city.
Source: portal “Italy in Russian”
Ravenna(Ravenna) is a beautiful Italian city that has a lot of unique features, thanks to which it can be called both a tourist and seaside resort.
In terms of attractions, Ravenna can be called a treasury region of Emilia Romagna, which has preserved outstanding historical and cultural values, many of which are now included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. But the most famous, undoubtedly, are the early Christian and Byzantine mosaics that adorn the walls of churches, monuments and museums. And even today, Ravenna is one of the leading mosaic producers in Italy.
As a seaside resort, Ravenna has also gained worldwide fame primarily for its beaches, which are located on the shore of one of the cleanest seas(Adriatic), as well as the hospitality of local residents and well-developed infrastructure. Another point that makes the beaches of Ravenna unforgettable is that along them there is a beautiful forest, Pineta di Ravenna.
The center of Ravenna is Piazza del Popolo(Piazza dell Popolo), which is an excellent place for walking, since the historical city center is partially closed from public transport. This is where the main celebrations and events take place.
Sights of Ravenna
Of course, there are a lot of attractions in Ravenna, and like in any other city in Italy, and imagine most of all these historical monuments are decorated with amazing Ravenna mosaics. You know, such an abundance of mosaics can only be seen in Istanbul.
8 most visited attractions in Ravenna:
You can read more about them in the article - Attractions of Ravenna.
In my opinion, the whole of Italy is a huge attraction; it amazes with the diversity of its landscapes. Since the article is about Ravenna, I would like to say that its surroundings are, well, simply of extraordinary beauty - wide fields planted with fruit trees, pine trees, sandy beaches, valleys and canals.
For tourists who love nature and forests, not far from Ravenna there is an excellent place called Oasis Alberete where you can see reptiles, mollusks, amphibian fish and rare species of birds. The best option to get to the forest is to rent a car. Head towards Venice on the SS 309 Romea Nord motorway. And don't forget to dress appropriately, there are a lot of mosquitoes there.
Ravenna Airport
The nearest airport is Ravenna - Gastone Novelli(Gastone Novelli) is currently used mainly for air training, since it is competing with other larger international airports nearby, from which regular and charter flights operate - Guglielmo Marconi (Bologna 80 km), G. Ridolfi (Forli 20 km), Miramare (Rimini) and Marco Polo (Venice).
Flights from Moscow
How to get to Ravenna from Bologna
- The distance from Bologna to Ravenna is 80 kilometers.
How to get to Ravenna from Rome
- The distance from Rome to Ravenna is 380 kilometers.
How to get to Ravenna from Milan
- The distance from Milan to Ravenna is 288 kilometers.
Train station in Ravenna
Ravenna Train Station is just 10 minutes from the historic center. Which you can get to on your own without resorting to a taxi, this is quite easy to do, you just need to leave the station and pass Viale Farini and go onto Via Diaz until you reach Piazza del Popolo.
Every year, 3.5 million people pass through Ravenna railway station, with traffic through the station increasing significantly during the summer months.
Prices in Ravenna
Like any other town in Italy, Ravenna has a huge number of restaurants, cafes and bars. A very good restaurant, very popular among Italians and tourists, is located on Ponte Marino street (Via Ponte Marino 3). The restaurant offers a large selection of dishes, including the fisso (dish of the day) menu. Dinner here will cost 20.00 - 25.00 euros, this includes pasta, main course, wine or beer and water.
Fisso lunches in restaurants will cost approximately 10.00 - 15.00 euros.
At lunchtime, while sightseeing, you can take advantage of the services of pizzerias and paninoteks. One pizzetta costs on average 1.00 - 1.50, and panino or local piadine 3.50, although you can buy cheaper in salumeria. Coffee at the bar 1.50 - 2.00 euros. But you need to remember that in the center, as a rule, everything is always more expensive.
A very good ice cream shop called Sorbetteria degli Esarchi is located on Via IV Novembre 11.
Current prices for products, on average in Italy, can be found in the article - “Prices for products in Italy“.
The price for parking in Ravenna is 1.50 - 2.00 euros per hour, parking tickets can be purchased in newspapers or tobacco shops.
Hotels in Ravenna
Without a doubt, an unforgettable holiday in Ravenna depends on the right choice of accommodation, so start searching and compare hotel prices in advance using the most popular services Hotellook and Booking, or use their search forms, which are located on our website:
Port of Ravenna
In terms of importance, the port of Ravenna is one of the most important in the Emilia-Romagna region, and is also among the top twenty in Italy. Many cruise companies start their tourist routes from here. For example, companies such as Royal Caribbean and Celebrity Cruises make trips to the shores of Greece, the island of Cyprus and Turkey.
There is also the opportunity to visit Sicily, in particular Catania, using the services of ferries or ships.
Culinary traditions of Ravenna
Ravenna is a great place to sample some of the region's delicious cuisine. These include piada, cappelletti with meat sauce, which I have already written about in this article.
One more an essential dish for city residents are passatelli in chicken broth. They contain breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, eggs and nutmeg.
Another delicious dessert considered typical of the region is caramelized figs with Squacquerone cheese.
The typical regional wine is Sangiovese.
Holidays and events in Ravenna
Well, these are of course just some of the events and activities.
Shopping in Ravenna
Ravenna has a huge number of shops for shopping, both expensive and not very expensive. Designer shops are located on Via Cavour.
You can find a large number of shops and various stalls selling food and souvenirs in the historical center of Ravenna. What to bring from Italy.
The large Mercato Comunale market, where you can find a wide selection of food products, is located in Piazza Andrea Costa, it is open on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday from 7:00 to 14:00, on Friday from 7:00 to 16:00, and is closed on Sunday.
Weather in Ravenna
Ravenna is generally cold in winter due to high humidity and fog is common. Sometimes on Christmas and New Year, snow may fall to the delight of local residents. And in the summer, due to the same humidity, it is stiflingly hot here, and therefore I keep repeating that the best months to visit Italy are the end of spring and the beginning of autumn, but June can also be included here.
Sea and beaches of Ravenna
To date seaside resort Marina di Ravenna is developing dynamically, while being one of the best in Italy, and is very popular among Italians and tourists from other countries.
There is a large marina here that offers more than a thousand berths for ships up to 40 meters long, which will appeal to those who like to ride a yacht. Wherein the pier is protected by two breakwaters total length 2.8 km
The best beaches in Ravenna are: Casal Borsetti, Marina di Romea, Marina di Ravenna, Porto Corsini, Punta Marina Terme, Lido Adriano, Lido di Dante, Lido di Classe, Lido di Savio.
In summer, the beaches of Ravenna are always full of people, all beaches are well equipped (umbrellas, sun loungers and other services), and most importantly, the prices are not very high. There are many restaurants and trendy clubs in the area.
Things to do in Ravenna
Not far from Ravenna (15 km) is the largest in Italy amusement park "Mirabilandia" there is everything that can give your vacation a thrill - roller coasters, a Ferris wheel, attractions, various performances, laser shows. The park is open April to the end of September from 10:00 to 18:00, as well as on weekends in October and All Saints' Day (Halloween). Entrance 33.00 euros.
Also not far from Ravenna is Zoo Safari where you can see animals up close while driving your own car or a train provided by the zoo. You can visit the Safari Zoo from April to October from 10:00 to 16:30. From Ravenna train station to the zoo there are buses No. 4, No. 176. More detailed information can be found on their website www.safariravenna.it
Among the winter activities in Ravenna You can highlight the skating rink which is usually located at Palazzo Mauro De Andre, on Viale Europa 1.
Finally, don’t forget to watch an interesting video about Ravenna.
The main attraction of Ravenna is its mosaics. She is everywhere here - in temples, houses, mausoleums. Her radiance and depth of performance amaze, fascinate, and enchant. But Ravenna is famous not only for its unique wall decoration. Here there is the house where Byron lived, Dante’s grave, the mausoleums of ancient rulers, as well as many temples, whose age is one and a half thousand years.
Ravenna is a city located in eastern Italy. It is the capital of the province of Ravenna, which is located in the region (Emilia-Romagna). The province borders the three largest districts of its region: in the west with (Bologna), in the north with (Ferrara), in the south with Forlì-Cesena. On the east side of Ravenna is the Adriatic Sea (mare Adriatico), which is part of the Mediterranean Sea (mar Mediterraneo).
More than a thousand years ago the city was located directly on the coast of mare Adriatico. But over time, the waters receded, and as a result of siltation, a lowland was formed. Ravenna is now connected to the Adriatic Sea by the Canale Candiano.
The area of Ravenna is 652 km2, and the number of inhabitants exceeds 150 thousand people. The historical center is located on 2 km2. Previously, it was surrounded by fortress walls, of which only the gates remained. And where the lines of fortifications used to stretch, there is now a boulevard ring on three sides, while on the west there is a railway.
After in the XIII century. On the People's Square (Piazza del Popolo) a house was built for the ruler of the city, the residence of Bernardino Polenta (la residenza di Bernardino da Polenta), it became the main square of Ravenna. A few years later, the house of the rector of Romagna (palazzo del Rettore di Romagna) appeared here.
Paguro platform
Not far from Ravenna, in the depths of the Adriatic Sea, there is a very interesting place for divers. This is the Paguro Platform, which is located on the seabed opposite Porto Corsini. This is the name of a small town located on the site where the Candiano Canal flows into the sea.
The platform appeared in the middle of the last century after gas reserves were discovered in the depths of the Adriatic Sea. In the fall of 1965, disaster struck off the coast of Ravenna: a gas eruption occurred during work. As a result, a fire broke out on the platform, after which it exploded and sank, plunging to a depth of 25 m. Three engineers were killed, a column of water rose 30 m above sea level, and a huge crater appeared at the bottom. The eruption was stopped only three months later.
The platform was not removed from the bottom of the sea, and since then it has been a popular place among diving enthusiasts, because in addition to the sunken structure, you can clearly see the inhabitants of the sea who have found refuge here. Most often you can see starfish, lobsters, shrimp, crabs, eels, and sea ruffs here.
How to get there
Despite the fact that Ravenna is located near the sea and is connected to it by a canal, you can only get here by sea by cruise ship or yacht. Ferry crossings are currently not in service. There is also no airport near the city, so people who fly to Italy by plane will have to make transfers. There are three airports at a distance of 90 km from the city, from which you can get to Ravenna by bus, train, but most conveniently by car. The transfer can be ordered at.
If you decide to travel to Ravenna by train, the train schedule can be viewed here:. Buses from different cities in Italy and Europe also come here.
By plane
The closest airport to Ravenna, at a distance of 40 km, is the airport in Forli (Aeroporto di Forlì). A little further - in Bologna (Bologna) and (Rimini). There is also (Venezia), but the road from it to Ravenna by land will take from two to three and a half hours.
Federico Fellini International Airport (Aeroporto internazionale Federico Fellini), located in Rimini, is 70 km away from Ravenna. The Aerostazione is a short walk from the airport. From here you need to take a bus to bus station 4 Rimini Fs, which is located on Via Dante Alighieri. Then you need to walk to the Rimini train station or bus station, which are located on the same square, on Piazzale Cesare Battisti. From here it is an hour's drive to Ravenna by train or bus. You can also order a transfer from the airport on the website
By train
Ravenna railway station (Stazione Di Ravenna) is located in Piazza Luigi Carlo Farini, 13, a ten-minute walk from the center. Trains arrive here that run between the cities of Rimini - Ferrara, Ravenna - Faenza, Ravenna - Castel Bolognese. There are also trains to Bologna, Venice, and Verona.
If a traveler is traveling from Rome, one must take into account that there is a direct train only once a day. Therefore, many travel with a transfer to Bologna. From (Milano) there is no direct connection with Ravenna.
By bus
Ravenna has three bus stations serving local, intercity and international buses. Therefore, you must first clarify where exactly the bus will stop, especially since stops are possible in other places. The final bus station can be at:
- Piazzale Aldo Moro – at the back of the railway station;
- Piazza and Viale Farini – located right next to each other, opposite the railway station;
- Via Trieste.
By sea
But not far from Ravenna, on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, where the waters of the Candiano Canal flow into it, there are two cities Porto Corsini and Marina di Ravenna. They are separated from each other by a canal, which can be crossed by ferry. There is a Cruise Port in Porto Corsini, where cruise ships stop, including those going to Greece, Cyprus, and Turkey. Marina di Ravenna has the opportunity to moor yachts. From here to Ravenna it takes half an hour by bus, but it is better to book a transfer.
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Early Christian monuments Ravenna(Early Christian Monuments of Ravenna) - a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. Ravenna was the capital of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century, and later, until the 8th century, the center of the Byzantine possessions in Italy. It has a unique collection of early Christian mosaics and monuments. All eight buildings included in the heritage site - the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Orthodox and Arian Baptisteries, the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, the Archbishop's Chapel, the Mausoleum of Theodoric, the Church of San Vitale and the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe - were built in V- VI centuries They are distinguished by enormous artistic skill, which is based on a skillful combination of Greco-Roman traditions, Christian icon painting techniques and Eastern and Western styles. Modern Ravenna is a city on the Padan plain in the Emilia-Romagna region, 10 km away. from the Adriatic coast with a population of 220 thousand people.
I was able to see 7 of the 8 buildings included in the Heritage List. Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe(Basilica di S.Apollinare in Classe) is located outside the city, and I simply physically did not have time to get there.
So, let's get to know the rest of the seven:
Perhaps the most famous and visited building on the List is Basilica of San Vitale(Basilica di S.Vitale), It stands out among the eight early Christian monuments of Ravenna for the perfection of its mosaics, which have no equal outside of Constantinople.
The basilica was built in the middle of the 6th century. and consecrated in honor of the early Christian martyr St. Vitaly Milansky.
All the interior mosaic decoration of the church was created simultaneously in 546-547.
Mausoleum of Galla Placidia(Mausoleo di Galla Placidia) is located near the Basilica of San Vitale.
The mausoleum dates back to approximately the second quarter of the 5th century. and is decorated with the earliest surviving Ravenna mosaics.
Although the construction is attributed to Galla Placidia, the daughter of Emperor Theodosius the Great, the mausoleum did not actually become her burial place.
Arian Baptistery(Battisterio degli Ariani) (baptismal place) was built at the turn of the 5th and 6th centuries. by order of Theodoric the Great, who was a supporter of Arianism. The name "Arian" was given to distinguish it from another baptistery built by Bishop Neon. Arianism is one of the teachings in Christianity in the 4th-6th centuries AD, which affirmed the created nature of God the Son.
In its turn, Baptistery of the Orthodox(Battisterio degli Ortodossi) or Baptistery of Neon (Battisterio Neoniano) is the oldest (5th century) surviving building in the city and one of the most significant monuments of Byzantine mosaics in the world.
Archbishop's Chapel(Cappella Arcivescovile) or Chapel of St. Andrew (Capella di S.Andrea) - the house church of the Equal bishops, built at the end of the 5th - beginning of the 6th centuries. and dedicated to the Apostle Andrew the First-Called. It is located in the building of the former archbishop's palace (now the Archbishop's Museum) and, unfortunately, photography is prohibited here. But you can admire the palace building.
Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo(Basilica di S.Apollinare Nuovo) was built at the end of the 5th - beginning of the 6th centuries. Later (in the 9th century) it was consecrated in honor of the heavenly patron of Ravenna, St. Apoliinarius. The basilica is famous for its unique mosaics.
Mausoleum of Theodoric The Great (Mausoleo di Teodorico). It was built by King Theodoric in 520 for his future tomb. This is the only surviving monument of Gothic architecture and the only surviving tomb of a barbarian monarch.
In addition to the buildings shown, which are included in the World Heritage List, there are quite a lot of other interesting buildings in Ravenna. Here, for example, are the ruins of the palace of Theodoric the Great (built at the end of the 5th century). This name has already appeared several times in our story. A little more detail - Theodoric the Great was the king of the Ostrogoths. In 489 he invaded the borders of modern Italy and by 493 he conquered the entire Apennine Peninsula and Sicily, the Pre-Alpine regions and Dalmatia. From 493 to 526 he was the sole ruler of the Ostrogothic kingdom with its capital at Ravenna.
Church of Santa Maria Maggiore (Chiesa di S.Maria Maggiore), originally built in the 6th century. and rebuilt after destruction in the 17th century.
Church of the Holy Cross (Chiesa di S.Croce), built by Galla Placidia (ruins).
Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ (Duomo della Santa Resurrezione di Nostro Signore Gesù Cristo) is the cathedral of Ravenna. The first cathedral was built at the beginning of the 5th century. By 1733, the building had become dilapidated and was completely dismantled, leaving only the cylindrical bell tower of the 10th century. In 1749, the solemn consecration of the cathedral took place.
Basilica of San Francesco (Basilica di San Francesco). Initially, in its place there was a small church of the 5th century. the buildings. In the X-XI centuries it was completely rebuilt and was consecrated in honor of St. Peter's (During the reconstruction period, a bell tower 33 m high was added to the basilica. In the 13th century, the basilica was transferred to the Franciscan monks and received its current dedication in honor of St. Francis of Assisi.
In 1321, Dante Alighieri was buried in the basilica, initially buried in its outer portico and then in the adjacent mausoleum. The poet's tombstone in the mausoleum.
Dante's tomb itself (Tomba di Dante) was erected in 1780.
Courtyard next to the tomb.
Garibaldi Square (Piazza Garibaldi) and his monument.
On the main square of the city - People's Square (Piazza del Poppolo).
Church of Santa Maria del Suffragio (early 18th century).
Basilica di S.Maria in Porto (XVI - XVII centuries).
Church of St. John the Evangelist (Chiesa di S.Giovanni Evangelista). It was built in 425 by Gala Placidia and was rebuilt several times: in the 10th century. a bell tower was added. Severely damaged during the bombing of Ravenna during World War II, after which it was completely restored in 1951.
Venetian fortress of Brancaleone (Rocca Brancaleone) (XV century).
Everything that is momentary, everything that is perishable,
Buried you for centuries.
You sleep like a baby, Ravenna,
Sleepy eternity is in your hands.
Slaves through the Roman gates
They no longer import mosaics.
And the gilding burns out
There are cool basils in the walls.
From the slow kisses of moisture
Softer than the rough vault of the tombs,
Where sarcophagi are green
Holy monks and queens.
The tomb halls are silent,
Their threshold is shady and cold,
So that the black gaze of blessed Galla,
When I woke up, I didn’t burn a stone.
Military abuse and resentment
The bloody trail is forgotten and erased,
So that the resurrected voice of Placida
I did not sing the passions of the past years.
The sea has receded far away,
And the roses surrounded the shaft,
So that Theodoric, sleeping in the coffin,
I never dreamed of the storm of life.
And the grape deserts,
Houses and people are all graves.
Only the copper of solemn Latin
Sings on the slabs like a trumpet.
Only in a close and quiet gaze
Ravenna girls, sometimes,
Sadness about the sea of no return
It passes in timid succession.
Only at night, leaning towards the valleys,
Counting the centuries to come,
Dante's shadow with an eagle profile
Sings to me about New Life.
Alexander Blok, "Ravenna", 1909
105 years have passed, and Ravenna seems to still be the same...
I’ll admit right away that I’ve never heard of this city before. It turns out that Ravenna is an absolutely amazing and unique city with a centuries-old history. This is the city where, no more and no less, the Great Roman Empire was born and died.
Near Ravenna flows a river with a better known name - Rubicon. It was here that Julius Caesar crossed with his legions and became emperor, although the word “emperor” then had a completely different meaning, as they expressed respect for the great commander. This was the birth of an empire.
It was to Ravenna in 402 that the capital of the Western Roman Empire was moved from Milan to escape barbarian raids. And in 472, with the overthrow of the last emperor, the existence of the Western Roman Empire ended. Ravenna extended the reign of the emperors by only 70 years.
In Ravenna, the monuments of the 5th-6th centuries AD have been amazingly preserved, and they have been preserved so well that it is simply hard to believe. Mosaics, which are about 1,500 years old, look perfect, despite wars, natural disasters and other troubles that have swept through Italy more than once over a millennium and a half.
In, for example, the frescoes of the 12th century in the Cathedral of St. George were preserved on only 1/5 of the walls, the rest was irretrievably lost.
We parked behind the National Museum building (Museo Nazionale, Via Benedetto Fiandrini, Ravenna). Parking costs only 3 euros per day, you need to keep your ticket until you leave, the guard checks it. Tickets for the museums can be bought in the shop opposite the Basilica of San Vitale. An adult ticket costs 9-50 euros, children are free. We got a discount, tickets cost 8-50 euros. Tickets allow you to visit the following sites:
- Mausoleum of Galla Placidia(erected around 425-450 AD)
- Basilica of San Vitale(consecrated in 548 after the return of Ravenna to Byzantine rule)
- Basilica of Sant'Appolinare Nuovo(built at the turn of the 5th-6th centuries, by Theodoric, leader of the Ostrogoths)
- Archbishop's Museum and Chapel of St. Andrew the Apostle(built at the turn of the 5th-6th centuries, by Theodoric, leader of the Ostrogoths)
- Baptistery of the Orthodox or Neonians(built at the turn of the 5th-6th centuries under the Bishop of Ursa)
And if you are not an art critic, then this will be enough for one day. All these buildings are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List as monuments of early Christian culture. Along with the tickets, they will give you a map so that you can visit all the specified relics.
In the same store you can buy a book guide to all the monuments of Ravvena in Russian, where all the religious subjects of the mosaics are explained in detail (cost 6 euros). It seems to me that Ravenna is a city that you need to prepare for visiting; otherwise, reading literature will not be interesting.
All the main attractions date back to the 5th-6th centuries AD, so everything is quite transparent, you don’t have to jump from one century to another. Of the main historical events you need to remember: first there was the reign of Galla-Placidia, then the capture of Ravenna by the Goths under the leadership of Theodoric (he was also a Christian), later the return of Ravenna under the patronage of Byzantium in 548.
Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
Galla Placidia (388-450) was the most interesting woman of the decline of the empire. She was the daughter of Theodosius the Great. He spent his youth in captivity among the Goths. Although it is difficult to say whether it was captivity, Galla became the wife of the leader of the Goths, Allarikh, and after his death she married his successor Ataulf. However, Attaulf was also killed just 2 years after the wedding. Placidia was exchanged for several cartloads of grain, so she returned to her former life with her high-ranking relatives. She was about 30 years old then.
As befits a decent Roman matron, Galla Placidia married a commander, they had a son, at the age of 2, who became the emperor of the Western Roman Empire - Valentinian III. But in fact, Galla, who inherited energy and abilities from her crowned father, managed the affairs of the empire as a regent and very successfully.
Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
The mausoleum itself is quite inconspicuous from the outside, sunk 2 meters into the ground, but inside it is entirely lined with dark blue mosaics without the slightest gap, the dome is like a starry sky. The room is quite small and contains three sarcophagi: one attributed to Galla Placidia, the other to her husband Emperor Constantine III, who reigned for about six months in 421, and the third to their son, Valentinian III.
Christ the Good Shepherd The subjects of the mosaics are of greatest value. In those distant times, the canons and dogmas of the church had not yet taken shape and we can touch the origins of European religious art. Artists at all times have depicted their contemporaries as Christ and the apostles; such is the property of the human mind. If you want to see what people looked like in the fifth century AD, look at what they depicted.
On the left side there is a Roman bookcase containing the four Gospels. St. Lawrence, with the same cross as Christ in the previous mosaic, hurries to burn the Arian heresy. The Arians believed that God created Christ and, accordingly, Christ is not equal to God. It was important then, but now the majority of the world's population has never heard of the Arians.
Mosaics of the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia The facts indicate that Galla Placidia was never buried in her tomb; she ended her days in Rome and most likely she was buried there. The tombs were opened and it was established that as many as five people lay there, the remains date back to the 10th century, but the residents of Ravenna will never agree with such statements; they firmly believe that their empress found peace in Ravenna in her mausoleum.
Basilica of San Vitale
The Basilica of San Vitale is located just a stone's throw from the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. But it was built 100 years later. Its construction was associated with the transition of Ravenna to Byzantine rule.
Basilica of San Vitale Photos are not able to convey all the radiance of mosaics; you have to see it live. Probably the construction and decoration were carried out by Byzantine craftsmen. The mosaics depict Justinian and Empress Theodora, surrounded by courtiers, presenting gifts to the new church. These are the best imperial portraits that have survived to our time.
Basilica of San Vitale The Basilica of San Vitale is a piece of lost Byzantium on the shores of Italy.
Basilica of San Vitale Basilica of Sant'Appollinare Nuovo
The Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo was built by the Ostrogoth king Theodoric at the turn of the 5th-6th centuries, when this barbarian leader conquered Italy (in 493) and made Ravenna his capital. Theodoric was an ardent supporter of the Arian heresy and even sought its recognition from the Pope. But after the return of Ravenna to Byzantine rule, in 540 the Arian buildings passed to the true believers.
In the 11th century, the relics of Saint Apollinaris, the first bishop of Ravenna from Sant'Apollinare in Classe, were moved to the basilica, which is how the basilica got its name - Sant'Apollinare Nuovo.
Basilica of Sant'Appollinare Nuovo Only on the walls of the Basilica of Sant'Appollinare Nuovo there remains an image of the old port of Classe and the ancient city of Ravenna, hidden behind the fortress walls.
Basilica of Sant'Appolinare in Classe At the beginning of the first millennium AD, Ravenna stood on the very shore of the Adriatic, but over the course of a millennium and a half, the shore retreated 8 km. This is the distance that separates the city from the modern port. The sea washed sand to the shores of the ancient city. Old Ravenna used to look like Venice with canals and bridges, but now the sands have swallowed everything up.
Baptistery of the Orthodox
Only in Italy have such a number of baptisteries (baptismal premises) been preserved; in other countries, after the 12th century, they stopped building them as a separate building. The baptistery was built on the foundation of former Roman baths; now the cultural layer lies at a depth of three meters from the base. It literally grew into the ground and yet the mosaics were perfectly preserved.
Orthodox Baptistery - mosaic on the ceiling The photo is enlarged. John the Baptist, dressed in skins, is already a canon of medieval art, and Christ is still a typical ancient Roman image, and a little paganism - the ancient deity of the river, the Jordan himself, participates in the baptism. He looks like an ordinary, pagan, Roman god - with a curly beard and long white hair, in which 2 crab claws are tangled.
Orthodox Baptistery - baptismal font Archbishop's Museum and Chapel of St. Andrew the Apostle
Something similar can be seen in the Archbishop's Museum. Christ is depicted as a Roman legionary, in military armor.
Archbishop's Museum - Christ, unusual image In the open book it is written in Latin: “I am the Way, the Truth and the Life.” With his feet Christ tramples the symbols of evil, the head of a lion and a snake. I have never seen such an unusual Christ anywhere else. This may be one of the earliest depictions of a militaristic church.
The most valuable exhibit of the archbishop's museum is considered to be an ivory pulpit, supposedly a gift from the Byzantine emperor Justinian.
Theodoric's Palace
Only one façade remains of the palace. The campanile of the Basilica of Saint Appolinarius is visible in the background. Ravenna is a very compact city; you won't need any transport to get around everything on foot. In fact, the palace did not belong to Theodoric. But as with the mausoleum of Galla Placidia, it turned out that this name stuck to it. The building dates from a later period.
Theodoric's Palace Theodoric was one of the educated barbarians; he was educated in Constantinople itself (Constantinople). During his training, the barbarian Theodoric converted to Christianity. But despite all his education, he did not know how to write and always drew his signature using a stencil. When I told the children this fact, they laughed together at the Byzantine education system.
In addition to the palace, his mausoleum from the Ostrogoth leader in Ravenna has been preserved. They say that Theodoric was very afraid of thunder and lightning and therefore ordered the construction of a mausoleum with a roof made of a single piece of stone weighing 300 tons. The mausoleum looks quite ordinary and absolutely empty, if I didn’t know that it was so ancient I would never have paid attention to it.
Piazza Del Popolo - People's Square, the main square of the city We have heard many times that there are many leaning towers in Italy, the Leaning Tower of Pisa is not the only one. And in Ravenna we actually managed to see another leaning tower, its base tied together with modern rails for strengthening.
Leaning Tower in Ravenna And in the cafe we had a great snack with a view of the leaning tower, the menu was only in Italian, pizza and pasta in Italian are almost the same as in other European languages. I ordered fish - “salmon”, but it turned out to be a pancake with fish, it was also delicious.
Ravenna, Porta Adriano Ravenna was previously surrounded by fortified walls, fragments of which remain.
Ravenna seemed to us a deserted town, underestimated by tourists. There are really few people on the streets. There is very good Wi-Fi in the city center, we sat in a cafe and enjoyed it. This city will be of interest to art lovers, those who are interested in all the intricacies of the formation of Christian canons, and lovers of beauty of all ages.
Translation by A. Vasilyeva (especially for PORTAL-SLOVO.RU)
Preface
The book offered to the reader’s attention does not pretend to provide archaeologists and art historians with any radically new materials about Ravenna, nor is it an ordinary reference book for tourists. This modest work is addressed to people whom Ravenna attracts with the beauty of its monuments and the special aroma of antiquity present in it. You will not find here either a detailed and sometimes boring history of the city, or a detailed description of all its buildings. The main goal that the author has set for himself is to show the great significance for the history of art of the buildings of Ravenna, to make one feel, as far as possible, the charm of this ancient city and to provide an overview of the works of fine art located in it.
In recent years, much controversy has arisen regarding the monuments discussed in this book. It seems to us that for readers who do not have a professional interest in these subtle and rather obscure issues, a scientific discussion of these problems will seem too complicated. At the same time, it is impossible to completely ignore the latest scientific data, which is important both for the history of art in general and for replenishing information about such a little-studied area as the art of the early Byzantine period. In our study, we were content only with identifying the main problems raised by art historians, as well as presenting the most plausible hypotheses from a scientific point of view. A more in-depth analysis of these problems requires special work devoted to this material.
At the end of this book you will find a bibliographic summary of the main works written about Ravenna, mainly in recent times, which can be consulted when studying this issue. It is unnecessary, I think, to say that the materials of these works make up the majority of this book, which was necessary both for a correct assessment of the monuments of Ravenna, and for checking personal subjective impressions. Let me repeat once again that this study was not written so that the reader receives comprehensive information about Ravenna, but only so that he understands and loves her better.
Introduction
Among the famous cities that have left their mark on world art, which Italy is so rich in, Ravenna has its own, completely special face. It does not, like Rome and Pompeii, contain any great monuments of ancient classics; it does not, like Florence and Venice, contain delightful works of the Quattrocento era or luxurious picturesque images of the high Renaissance. Its meaning lies elsewhere: Ravenna is the only city in Italy and one of the few places in the world that can give a holistic idea of early Christian art of the 5th-6th centuries.
There were many circumstances that contributed to the perpetuation of the name of the city of Ravenna in history. It was here that the oppressed and abandoned Dante received revelations about his Divine Comedy and ended his days. Here Byron spent several years of his hectic life and left an unforgettable memory of himself in this city. However, Ravenna, of course, owes its real glory most of all to the fact that in the 5th century it served as a refuge for the last Western Roman emperors, and in the 6th century it became the capital of the Ostrogothic kings and then the residence of the Byzantine viceroys who ruled Italy conquered by Justinian. Thanks to these circumstances, for more than three centuries (404-751), the city was the political center of the peninsula, as well as its cultural capital, where the continuous development of fine arts took place. To this day, silent witnesses of this fertile era of cultural flourishing have been preserved - wonderful architectural and artistic monuments.
The Ravenna of our day, surrounded by a low and gloomy plain, is a half-extinct small provincial town. “It is difficult to imagine,” writes Tan, “a city more abandoned, miserable and falling into complete decay.” Above the empty streets, where grass emerges from under the broken pavement slabs, rise the high sad walls of abandoned monasteries, the cold and bare facades of ancient churches, low, cracked and browned houses, above which the silhouettes of old towers loom. Life in Ravenna, as if drowned in the vast desert space surrounding it, seems frozen. There is no longer any lively movement of people, no industry, no commerce in that city, which fifteen centuries ago was a prosperous seaport. Today, only a few barges and small vessels can be seen sailing through the slumbering waters of the long ten-kilometer canal connecting Ravenna with the Adriatic Sea. The special beauty of the landscape of these places is made up of the dense pine forests blackening in the distance on the horizon, the same “evergreen forest” whose “shady loneliness” was sung by Byron. The trees of this famous forest, thinned by fires and harsh winters, are drawn as a picturesque dark line at the edge of the sky.
There is something in this sleepy city that invariably attracts tourists, historians and artists - these are the ancient churches located in it, which, under the visible coldness of their bare walls, keep treasures of fine art almost intact. They have neither the attractive grace of the religious buildings of Tuscan cities, nor the softness and captivating monuments of Florence, Siena and Perugia. The temples of Ravenna are infinitely sad, but this same sadness is the best way to feel the breath of the past. Here everything takes the spirit back to the past era and its sublime art, and no outside interference disturbs the peace and peaceful contemplation of the monuments. The silence of abandoned streets, With antique sarcophagi visible here and there, leaning against the blackened walls, the general atmosphere of gloomy abandonment, the concentrated loneliness of the ancient basilicas - everything here invites you to forget yourself among the dreams and memories of vanished centuries. One has only to stop, enchanted and surprised, at the mosaics of the mausoleum of the Empress Galla Placidia, where golden arabesques display their harmonious patterns on dark blue backgrounds, at the long procession of saints in dazzling white robes in the Basilica of Sant'Apollinario Nuovo, at the magnificent figures of Justinian and Theodora appearing in in all the splendor of its imperial grandeur in the apse of the Church of San Vitale, and it seems that these calm and motionless silhouettes come to life, and the spirit without any difficulty is immersed in the environment that gave birth to these magnificent monuments. To use the expression of Titus Livy, “the soul here becomes truly ancient.”
In any other place, when one hears the names of Galla Placidia, Theodoric, Justinian, they seem infinitely distant, like words devoid of any meaning and interest. In Ravenna, where monuments of their era or their own images are encountered at every step, these names, on the contrary, become almost physically tangible realities. In the face of this visible material evidence, the dry references of the chronicles are gradually colored and clarified, the old dead city begins to live a new life, and in the imagination, without much effort, a clear image of famous historical characters and the architectural monuments they created is drawn.
Ravenna is quite rightly called the Italo-Byzantine Pompeii. It is perhaps difficult to find a more suitable definition for this city, in which Byzantine art of the 5th-6th centuries is better represented than anywhere else in the East (Constantinople, Thessaloniki). Even more than in Rome, you can feel the profound influence that Byzantine art had on Italy. In the Eternal City, only in some places beautiful mosaics have been preserved, hidden under the paint with which the Turks covered the walls of ancient Christian churches. These monuments, without a doubt, testify to the high mastery of the fine arts of the first centuries of Christianity, but, unfortunately, inconvenient for study up close and heavily damaged, can provide only very incomplete and fragmentary information about the nature of Byzantine art of this period. The situation is completely different in Ravenna, where extensive mosaic cycles, perfectly preserved and accessible for viewing, have survived almost unchanged to this day. For more than two centuries, original art continuously developed here, closely related in its trends and artistic techniques to Eastern art and very different from the direction that prevailed in Rome in this era. Although it is impossible not to recognize the high artistic value of the Roman mosaics of the 4th century in the churches of San Constanza and San Pudenziana, it cannot be ignored that from the 5th to the 8th centuries art in the great papal residence and capital of Christendom in Italy quietly descended to the level of a provincial city. In Ravenna, on the contrary, during this period many luxurious ensembles were created - rich churches erected at the expense of the rulers, beautiful decorations executed by the most skillful craftsmen. Thus, while in the papal city Byzantine influence penetrated very little into the Roman artistic tradition, in Ravenna, which was connected with Byzantium by constant relations and later became the administrative center of the empire on the peninsula, oriental art flourished to its fullest.
It should also be noted that the Ravenna monuments, due to their good preservation and accessible location for viewing, allow the viewer to understand the most complex process of creating mosaic compositions. The very fact of the unusually skillful and harmonious arrangement on the walls of temples of millions of cubes of painted glass, whose uneven surface so skillfully refracts light, testifies to the existence of a great decorative school. One can only enjoy the marvelous range of colors that the artists use, the dexterity with which they distribute the color spots of these small painted pieces of glass, the luxury of the materials themselves, the alternating gold, silver and mother-of-pearl plates, the ability to tonally develop a composition using cubes of different sizes.
No less interesting for a specialist is the analysis of various techniques from different times and different masters. On the walls of the church that he was to decorate, the artist first depicted, using fresco technique, the subjects that he had to present, then gradually a sparkling mosaic decoration was superimposed on top of this painting, which for the masters who performed it represented an unusually painstaking and long work, which sometimes took in large basilicas many years. It should be noted that often the original decoration was subject to many corrections, and also that different artists within the same temple could express different concepts and trends. The study of Ravenna monuments allows us to understand these various directions of a single art school.
Unfortunately, only a small part has reached our time from the former splendor of the city of Ravenna. Only on the pages of ancient chronicles can one find evidence of the existence of luxurious secular buildings, a stadium and amphitheater, palaces and magnificent churches, erected and decorated by generations of pious inhabitants. From the time of Charlemagne, who, with the blessing of Pope Adrian, brought mosaics, marble and bronze from the Ravenna palace to decorate E-la-Chapelle, down to our times, the history of Ravenna is the story of the destruction of its monuments. In the 18th century, the ancient Basilica of the Resurrection of Christ, built by Bishop Ursus of Ravenna at the beginning of the 5th century, was dismantled, the walls of which were decorated with mosaics. Church of St. John the Evangelist, rebuilt in the 14th century. and finally rebuilt in the 18th century. lost its wonderful decoration, commissioned in the 5th century by Empress Galla Placidia. The Church of the Holy Cross was rebuilt in 1716; in 1688 an earthquake completely destroyed the beautiful mosaics of the c. San Agat. The Gothic temple of San Andre has completely disappeared, and the churches of San Theodore, today called Santo Spirito, and Saint Michel in Affrichisco are only cold walls, devoid of any decoration. All that remains is the memory of the decoration of the Church of Saint-Etienne, where once long mosaic and pictorial monumental cycles narrated the life of the apostles and martyrs; The decoration of the churches of St. Paul, St. Agnes and St. Mary the Great, in the apse of which was presented a magnificent image of the Mother of God, has not been preserved. From the old archbishop's palace, in which the bishops of Ravenna met for more than half a century, and where, along with long fresco cycles from the life of Christ and the apostles, there were also precious mosaics, only an insignificant chapel remains. Countless ancient monasteries existed in the city - the monasteries of St. Zechariah and St. Michael, St. Apollinaria and St. Theodora, St. Severin and St. Maria in Cosmedin, were completely destroyed or gave way to later, elegant, vast monasteries that were built in Ravenna during the 17th and 18th centuries. One could not even mention the disappearance of luxurious works of applied church art: monuments of gold embroidery, gold and silver vessels, rich crowns, luxurious candelabra, gospels with precious inlays, objects of special veneration of emperors, kings and pontiffs - all this disappeared during the revolutions which took place in Ravenna during the disastrous sack of the city in 1512. , and also because of the indifference and carelessness of those who kept all these treasures and did not understand their value.
Concluding the review of ancient Ravenna monuments that no longer exist, we should mention the disappeared port of Classe, which was connected to the city by an extended suburb. Where more than a thousand years ago a populous trading city, inhabited by colonies of Syrian and Armenian merchants and replete with numerous churches and monasteries, rose on the shores of the Adriatic, now there is complete desolation and silence. Not even a trace remains of the basilicas of Saint Probus and Saint Eleocadius that once stood here. , St. Euphemia by the sea and the Church of St. Petra , built in the 5th century by Archbishop Peter II Chrysologos and formerly the most grandiose and magnificent basilica among the temples of Ravenna. The sea, which has retreated from its former borders, has left on the site of the ancient port of Classe a lonely, sad and swampy plain, crossed by rivers flowing slowly among the rice fields. The only evidence of a city that once existed here is the majestic Basilica of Sant'Apollinario in Classe, rising alone among the wild desert.
Unfortunately, time has left its mark on some of the monuments that have survived to this day. In some churches, moisture penetrating through the walls destroyed more or less extensive surfaces covered with mosaics; in other churches, unsuccessful restorations, even more than natural disasters, spoiled the appearance of architectural monuments and their decoration. However, in general, the buildings that have come down to us have survived quite unscathed, and here it would not be out of place to add that this was largely due to the judicious management of Mr. C. Ricci, director of the Brera Museum in Milan, whose active work has been directed for several years now for the preservation and sensitive restoration of the city’s art treasures. The merits of the museum workers include clearing the area around the mausoleum of Galla Placidia, which was literally buried in heaps of rubble, clearing the approaches to the building called the Palace of Theodoric and the Basilica of San Vitale, which were cleared of unnecessary buildings hiding these monuments. The marble inlays of the Baptistery of the Orthodox, the mosaics of San Vitale, Sant'Apollinario Nuovo regained their original splendor, and the sarcophagi that had previously been there were again placed in the naves of the Basilica of Sant'Apollinario in Classe. The city's Museum of Christian Antiquities itself, unusually edifying and interesting, is on the way to reorganization. The result of all the events described above was a closer and more careful study of the Ravenna monuments, which contributed to the emergence of many original and valuable studies by art historians.
Before we begin to talk in detail about the history and art of ancient Ravenna, we should say a few words about what this city looked like in the era being described. In the church of Sant'Apollinario Nuovo, two curious mosaics have been preserved, which depict the appearance of Ravenna from the 6th century. One of them depicts the port of Classe, the other - Ravenna itself. Despite the fact that both images are in many ways very schematic and conventional, they are of great interest. In the image of the port of Classe, behind the battlements of the maritime colony, opening to the sea with a high portico flanked by towers, one can see a circular structure with two floors of arcades stacked on top of each other. This is an amphitheater, the entrance to which is led by a winding line of a long portico. On the right is a two-story rotunda, topped by a conical roof and dominating the partially restored silhouettes of a spacious basilica and a distinctive triumphal arch. On the left side of the composition there are three ships rocking on the waves on a small area of the sea, limited by the city walls and the quadrangular lighthouse tower.
On the other side of the main nave of the Basilica of Sant'Apollinario Nuovo, Ravenna is depicted, the walls of which are divided by a large portico with a tympanum decorated with golden mosaics. Inside the city walls, a number of buildings are depicted, most of which are very recognizable: next to the dome of San Vitale stretches the Basilica of Sant'Apollinario Nuovo itself with its high facade and closed narthex; in the distance one can see the Arian Baptistery and some other buildings. Particularly interesting is the foreground image of Theodoric's palace, which is a long two-story building covered with red tiles and supported by high arcades. A portico with a triangular front in the center of the palace and three large doors on either side of it are the entrance to the room. Expensive fabrics and flower garlands hang in the intercolumnae, and mosaics sparkle in the tympanum of the main portico. Particularly beautiful are the graceful figures of winged Victorias depicted above the bends of the arcades, holding garlands of greenery, the light grace of which is reminiscent of the dancers of Pompeii. The whole of ancient Ravenna appears before our eyes in this mosaic composition, demonstrating typical examples of its religious buildings and the elegant luxury of secular buildings.
And yet, if you want to get an even more complete and vivid picture of ancient Ravenna, open the little book in which the 9th century priest, Abbot Agnellus, described for the monks of his monastery the history and wonders of his native city. This pious cleric, of course, was not a historian in the full sense of the word. During the course of the story, he often moves the action from one era to another or mixes up characters, largely distorting the story itself. But, describing the events taking place in his city, the naive chronologist could not help but become interested in the buildings themselves and their dazzling mosaics. In his book, he carefully cited the inscriptions that covered the walls of churches and decorated sarcophagi, described in detail the paintings on the walls of temples, and spoke about many wonderful miracles and pious legends that related to these monuments. Everything that he happened to see or hear, he put into his book, without particularly analyzing it, and, it must be said, that this is precisely what constitutes its main charm. At times it may seem that the author seems to want to drive the reader out of patience with his long digressions and abstract reasoning, but, despite this shortcoming, his work has one undeniable advantage: Agnellus’s work paints us a living picture of Ravenna of the Byzantine period - its architectural buildings and traditions.
Finally, if you want to fully immerse yourself in the past of ancient Ravenna, just stay dreaming in the quiet shadow of the basilicas, revive with your thoughts the silent and motionless mosaic figures - the imperial cortege in the choir of the Church of San Vitale, the procession of holy women and husbands lined up on the walls of the Church of Sant'Appolinario. With some stretch of the imagination, one can imagine in the vast deserted expanses of these basilicas strolling ladies in long, gold-embroidered robes, on the heads of which rest golden miters with a light white veil, imperial guards scurrying under the arches, courtiers in white embroidered tunics and other representatives of various classes - the bishop with his clergy, the exarch with officers, monks in long black robes and a cape covering the head and shoulders. Then you will undoubtedly feel how your excited imagination resurrects the long-dead past - the disappeared centuries and the people who lived in them. This is the special charm of Ravenna, that here, like no other place, the historical study of monuments is inextricably linked with their lyrical contemplation, and the scientific analysis of the works of art found there brings, in addition to a lot of useful information and discoveries, ordinary human joy.