Mountain saber description. The Subpolar Urals do not let go for long. The city of Pechora and the village of Aranets
Administrative affiliation: Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug (Khanty-Mansiysk) and the Komi Republic (Salekhard). However, the city is unofficially considered the capital of the Subpolar Urals intu, which is the central transport hub of the Subpolar Urals, located on the Moscow-Vorkuta or Moscow-Labytnangi railway route.
Population: just like in the Polar Urals, there is no population here as such. The indigenous population of the Subpolar Urals are the Mansi and Komi-Zyryans, who left these regions after a great epidemic that killed all their herds. The indigenous population was forced to leave their homes and move down the rivers into the valley.
There are no settlements in the mountainous regions of the Subpolar Urals, except for individual camps of reindeer herders and geologists: there are large settlements only in the flat regions of the Urals. The western slope is still more or less inhabited, but on the eastern slope, except for the village of Saranpaul and isolated sites, there is nothing else.
Geography: The Subpolar Urals is the highest part of the Urals, geographically bounded by Mount Telposis in the south and its sources in the north. The highest point of the Subpolar Urals is (1895 m). The total area of the mountain range is 32 thousand sq. km. The ridges of the Subpolar Urals are distinguished by alpine landforms, high peaks, asymmetrical slopes, high passes and deep river valleys with high rocky walls. The highest ridges are concentrated in the central part of the massif.
The largest rivers of the Subpolar Urals - , - belong to the basins of the Kara and Barents seas.
Also popular in Yugyd Va ecotourism and ethnographic tourism: some travel companies organize tours to reindeer herders’ settlements and accommodation there with immersion in the everyday life of reindeer breeders.
How to get there: Geographically, the Yugyd Va National Park is located on the territory of the Komi Republic, or more precisely, in the Intinsky, Pechora and Vuktylsky districts. The directorate of the park is located in the city of Vuktyl, branches are in the cities of Inta and Pechora: the directorate must be visited in order to obtain permission to pass the route in the territory of the national park. Here you can also organize a transfer to the desired starting point of the route - the management of the national park can assist with this.
You can get to the park from the cities of Vuktyl, Inta, Pechora, the villages of Synya, Aranets, Kosyu, Kozhim-rudnik, Kozhim, Priuralsky and some others: it all depends on what goal the group sets for itself. There is a regular bus from Vuktyl to the village of Podcherye - the only settlement located on the territory of the national park. You can get to Vuktyl itself by bus or rented car from Ukhta.
The cities of Inta, Pechora, as well as the villages of Synya, Aranets, Kosyu, Kozhim-rudnik are stations of the Northern Railway with connections from Moscow to Vorukta or Moscow to Labytnangi. At the same time, you should pay attention to the fact that fast trains do not stop in small villages and stops.
From Inta there is a dirt road to the mountains, which is hardly possible to drive along in an ordinary passenger car, so it is better to hire a Ural or GAZ. Traditionally, all routes start from Lake Bolshoy Bolbanta (130 km from Inta), where travelers will be delivered by all-terrain Ural vehicles. There are also options for transportation by car to the Sanavozh camp site (100 km from Inta) and crossing the Kozhim River (80 km from Inta).
Mountaineering in the Subpolar Urals
Sablinsky ridge and Mount Sablya
Route description: The Sablinsky ridge is located in the Komi Republic and is the most technical and interesting route for climbers. Highest point - Mount Saber(1497 m), which was chosen by both climbers and mountaineers, and for good reason. Sablinsky ridge is one of the most beautiful ridges of the Subpolar Urals. In addition, it has another undeniable advantage: having been separated to the west from the main massif of the Ural Mountains, it is more accessible for radial forays from the surrounding rivers and allows for significant variations when planning a walking or mountain route. The Sablinsky ridge, due to its height, is visible from afar - literally 100 km away - and attracts adventurers with its snow-white peaks. The steep, vertical eastern slopes of the Sablinsky ridge are accessible only to climbers with special equipment.
The main peak, Saber Mountain, is a saber-shaped peak hanging to the east. The western slope of the Saber is flatter - about 30°, the eastern slope is steeper, about 60°, closer to the top the slope ends with sheer walls, rich in glacial cirques, snowfields and tarn lakes. The western slope is recommended for hiking, the eastern - for mountaineering.
The ascent along the western slope partly passes through a coniferous forest, which ends at an altitude of 600 m, giving way to larch, mosses and volcanic stones. As you ascend to the top, do not forget to admire the gradually opening views of the Pechora river valley: in the distance you can see the city of Pechora itself and a section of the Northern Railway. But the most stunning view awaits travelers at the top of Sablya: from here almost the entire Urals are visible.
How to get there: from the Pechora railway station of the Northern Railway by hired vehicles (Ural, GAZ).
Mount People's (Poengurr)
Route description: Mount Narodnaya (with emphasis on the first syllable) is the highest point of the Ural Mountains: 1895 m above sea level. The Mansi called it the beautiful word Poengurr, which translated from Mansi means “top, crown, head.”
Mount Narodnaya is located on the territory of the Khanty-Mansiysk Autonomous Okrug, within the Yugyd Va National Park, and is distinguished by inaccessible slopes and a plateau-like, flat top. The northern slope of the mountain is most suitable for climbing, and the preferred time of year for this, of course, is summer - from about July to mid-August. The slopes of Narodnaya are rich in forests with clear lakes, glaciers and snowfields.
However, Narodnaya is attractive not only as the highest point from which you can see almost the entire Urals - as far as the eye can see. Climbers also chose its western and eastern slopes for difficult climbs and training.
How to get there: In order to get to Mount Narodnaya, you must obtain permission from the directorate of the Yugyd Va National Park, on whose territory the mountain is located. The Directorate is located at: Verkhnyaya Inta, st. Dzerzhinsky, 27a. Verkhnyaya Inta, in turn, can be reached by train of the Northern Railway. Here, at the directorate, you can order a car that can take you from Inta to the Zhelannaya industrial base, located near Lake Bolshoye Bolbanty. From the base you will need to cover a distance of about 15 km to the foot of the mountain, moving upstream of the Balbanyu River.
Hiking and skiing routes of the Subpolar Urals
Tourist base "Ozernaya" and shelter "Upper Vangyr"
It is very convenient to start hiking and skiing routes, as well as combined (pedestrian and water) routes from a tourist base conveniently located in the Subpolar Urals " Ozernaya" and shelter "Upper Vangyr". Here the routes can be completed, or a base can be designated as one of the intermediate points on the route: for rest, replenishment of supplies or (God forbid) receiving medical care.
From the Ozernaya base you can make hiking, skiing, and water trips lasting from 1-2 days to several weeks. The base is located in a wonderful location: the Voyvozh-Syny river valley. In the immediate vicinity there are two beautiful peaks: Sunduk and Shuda-Iz, to which everyone can make radial ascents as a warm-up before a more difficult hike.
From here it is also possible to access routes along, to Hoffmann Glacier, and conquer the beautiful nameless ridge at the sources of the Ozernaya River, as well as take a simple walk in the picturesque valley of the Ozernaya River: There are a lot of options, for every taste, for any level of training and for any period.
You can get from the Ozernaya tourist center to the Verkhniy Vangyr shelter in one walking day, and from Verkhniy Vangyr, in turn, you can start the route along the Inaccessible ridge, visit the Parnuk plateau and climb the pearl of the Subpolar Urals.
Route description: The Research Range is located in the northern part of the Subpolar Urals, on the border of the Komi Republic and Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug. It extends 175 km north of the river, and its highest point is (1895 m), which is also the highest point of the Ural Mountains.
The Research Range includes: the Torgoveyiz ridge, Mount Keftalik, mountains at the sources of the Nyamga, Vyrayu and Kobylayu rivers, the Neroika, Salener, Manyinskiye mountains, the Inaccessible ridge, the watershed ridge at the sources of the Khobeyu, Naroda, Manaraga and Balbanyu rivers with the peaks of Mansiner, Narodnaya, Karpinsky , Didkovsky. To the north, the Research Range continues the Wolverine Range.
In this area, you can organize a route of any difficulty category: there are easier options, with gentle and not too tiring climbs and low passes (from 600 to 750 m above sea level). For example, along the southern part of the ridge in the upper reaches of the Puyva and Torgovaya rivers, as well as between the upper reaches of the Shchekurya, Manya and Bolshoi Patok rivers.
Narodo-Itinsky ridge
Route description: The Narodo-Itinsky ridge is the northeastern continuation of the Issledovatelsky ridge, adjoining it as if in a checkerboard pattern - a little obliquely. The Narodo-Itinsky ridge extends 100 km to the northeast from source to source, and, along with , and other rivers of the western slope. However, it also has its own characteristics.
In the upper reaches the river is fast, the bed is narrow, in the middle reaches the bed widens to 50-100 m, powerful rapids and large stones appear in the bed, the banks are high, rocky, overgrown with dense forest. Sometimes the river goes into a narrow rocky gate. After the confluence of the Vangyr tributary, Kosyu turns north and overflows up to 150 m, significantly slowing down and flowing out onto a flat area with flat, swampy banks. In the middle reaches, you can drop off the route near the village of Kosyu with the railway station of the same name with the Kotlas-Pechora-Vorkuta connection.
In its lower reaches, the river overflows in places up to 500 meters, breaking into countless branches and oxbow lakes. The current is almost gone.
There is a lot of fish on Kosyu: salmon, whitefish, Siberian grayling, taimen, but we remember that on the territory of the Yugyd Va National Park, fishing in any form is strictly prohibited.
Main obstacles on the route: Unlike some other rivers of the Subpolar Urals, the rapids on Kosya are named. The most famous rapids on Kosyu are: Kedrovy, White Horse, Trek and Bezgil. However, almost all of these obstacles can be called a “threshold” with a big stretch: most of them are passed without looking and without insurance - along the main stream between the stones. The exception is the Bezgil rapids, which in high water can be dangerous due to strong pressure against the rock of the opposite bank. Overkill at the very beginning of the rapid is not desirable, since beyond the rapid the river goes into a narrow ten-kilometer canyon, in which rescue operations are very problematic. In the riverbed behind the rapids and in the rocky gates there are deep holes. The most famous is located beyond the Bezgil threshold - the Round Pit.
Famous Mount Manaraga(1663 m) is located very close to the source of Kosyu - about 20 km. Therefore, mountain lovers, connoisseurs of unique mountain beauty and high-altitude views should definitely go to the radial hike to Manaraga: it’s worth setting aside 1 day for it. You can recognize Manaraga by the characteristic jagged ridge at the top, reminiscent of a bear's paw - this is how the name of this beautiful mountain is translated from Mansi.
Tributaries of the Koshu:, Vangyr, Bolshaya and Malaya Saryuga, Bolshaya Inta (right).
How to get there: Just like Kozhim, Kosyu flows in the territory of the Yugyd Va National Park. The route should start from the source of the Kosyu River, or from one of its tributaries, which can be reached by hired vehicles from the city of Inta. The most convenient drop-off point from the route is the Kosyu station of the Northern Railway on the Moscow-Vorkuta or Moscow-Labytnangi route. The station is located in the middle reaches of Kosyu and is good for starting “mattress” rafting.
Big Son
Seasonality: June - September
Route description: Bolshaya Synya is a left tributary of the Usa River, which belongs to the Pechora basin. This is a picturesque, stormy, rapids mountain river - exactly what a river in the Subpolar Urals should be. The entire route along Bolshaya Syna runs through the territory of the Komi Republic and the Yugyd-Va National Park. In the upper and middle reaches of the Bolshaya Synya, in places it breaks through tight rocky canyons with walls up to 70 m high. The upper reaches of the Bolshaya Synya are rich in rapids and rocky banks, the rate of fall is average, there are no serious obstacles as such. After the last limestone rock of Sgoryk Kyrta, the river turns west and acquires a flat character and a calm flow with small riffles and low rocky islands that divide the channel into numerous channels.
Bolshaya Synya is full of fish, but even here you have to remember the ban on fishing throughout the Yugyd Va Nature Reserve.
Attractions along the route: The Upper Gate of the Big Synya (Sokotovo) is the main attraction of the route, located in the upper reaches of the river, and is a picturesque rock canyon, which is also a unique geological object. In the area of the Upper Gate, the river goes into a narrow (60 m) rocky canyon with vertically standing layers of limestone rocks, forming a bizarre-shaped wall with notches and battlements, reminiscent of the ruins of a medieval castle - it was this place that Zhukovsky once called the “Pechora Alps”.
Along the entire route, every now and then there are fossils with clearly imprinted remains of ferns and leaves, the age of which is about 200 million years.
How to get there: from the Synya railway station there is a branch with the connection Moscow (Kotlas, Usinsk) - Vorkuta by rented car to the village of Synya, from where you can start the rafting. The drop off point from the route is the railway bridge over Bolshaya Synya, from which it is only a few kilometers to the Synya station. If desired, rafting along the Bolshaya Synya can be continued to the confluence of the Usa and the village of Ust-Usa, from where you can get by hired vehicle to Pechora (about 120 km).
The next day we overcame the not at all difficult Aranets Pass and found ourselves in Asia. The picture to the east that opened before us from the Aranets Pass was sharply different from what we had seen the day before. A panorama of mountain ranges and peaks towering above countless glaciers and snowfields opened before us.
Bird's-eye
This mountain splendor was complemented by countless lakes formed as a result of the abundant melting of snow. It was a pristine natural world, untouched by human civilization. The thought involuntarily came to mind that such a picture was repeated here hundreds and thousands of years ago. This strong feeling always comes to me when I find myself in new mountain ranges. You feel like a grain of sand in the endless world of eternity.
We started to go down and soon found ourselves in close proximity to the blue lakes. It felt like spring was around, and not the month of July. Huge ice floes floated calmly on the mirror-like surface of the lakes. On the slopes of the ridges, partially freed from snow and ice under the rays of the July sun, northern grasses and flowers were already rising. Of the trees, individual larches predominated, towering above the world of snow, stone and the first greenery of spring. All this is reflected in the water surface along with clouds running across the blue sky.
Above the blue eyes of the lakes
I am describing my impressions of the beauty I saw in such detail because even then the decision arose to create the painting “Cirpsipolar Spring,” which was accomplished after returning to Moscow. Unfortunately, this work was stolen from the Odessa cinema. Only the black and white photograph in my album survived. Now, when I am writing these memoirs, I again promise myself to return to this topic and try to revive this unforgettable spring of the circumpolar Urals.
We continued to descend down the banks of one of the stormy rivers that originate from the glaciers of the subpolar Urals. Gradually, northern, low-growing, but so dear to the heart, birch trees began to appear on the banks. In one of the clearings among a small forest area, not far from a small waterfall, we set up our camp to be able to wander lightly along the slopes of the Subpolar Urals and admire the beauty of the Russian North.
Ural waterfall
The next day we climbed the mountain slopes, which offered views of the Hoffmann Glacier and Sablu Mountain, which dominates this part of the Ural Mountains. I made several pencil sketches and sketches. That’s when I came up with the decision to create a large panoramic painting, “The Subpolar Urals,” in which I was going to reflect the impression that arose when I looked at the Urals from a bird’s eye view.
In the evening, right from the tent, we watched a huge bright orange moon, which hung low over the mountains. A day later we had to get ready for the return trip.
Subpolar Urals
As I wrote earlier, we decided to go back the same way. Having overcome the Aranets Pass, we began to descend to the west, towards Pechora. The path was clearly visible and we, being already light, walked quite quickly, 5-6 kilometers per hour. The main thing was not to lose the path. On the very first day we met “our Baltic”, but this time it was not he who caught up with us and overtook us, but we found him sitting by the road. Having greeted him, we moved on without stopping, so as not to lose the momentum.
“All tourists eat the same foods,” Alla suddenly said, picking up empty bags of pea soup and Jubilee cookies from the ground. After walking a few more steps, we discovered an unopened package with four tablets of dry alcohol, necessary for lighting a fire in case of rainy weather. One tablet was enough for us to boil a large mug of water for making tea or coffee during daytime stops, when, in order not to waste time, we limited ourselves to sandwiches. And then it dawned on us almost simultaneously that these were possibly the remains of one of our daily “emergency reserves”, which I wrote about earlier. There was no doubt left when, after a dozen or two steps, we saw candy wrappers from Citron sweets, with which it was very pleasant to drink evening tea, tired after a long day's march.
At the first night on the way back, the reserve we had left was in place, so dinner went as usual, with a fire, pea soup and a portion of raw smoked sausage with tea.
Parking on the bank of the stream
In the morning, having refreshed ourselves, we went to the next stage. I would like to note that in addition to cloudberries, which grew in abundance in the swamps, in the forest, right on the path and around it there were plenty of aspen boletuses, so young and strong that it was even painful to pass by. In the afternoon it started to drizzle, but not only did this not slow down our progress, but the coming coolness added strength to us. We arrived at the stream where the last stop was planned around six in the evening. Having crossed to the other side, we, as one would expect, found nothing. We had about eleven kilometers to go to the village of Aranets. The rain stopped, dinner practically didn’t take place, we felt cheerful and decided to complete the last part of the route and that evening go to the banks of the Pechora and spend the night there. This was supported by the fact that near the village, as I wrote above, we had a large supply left for the last, final part of our route to the valley of the Kozhim River.
Ural boletus
We quickly moved towards our desired goal. Dusk had already fallen, the last kilometers remained. Carried away by the approaching finale of this multi-kilometer hike, we forgot that after the village of Aranets, for safety reasons, we went around two large lakes on the right. Now we were in a hurry and remembered this only when the black expanse of a large lake opened in front of us late in the evening. The path, having reached the shore, turned into wooden footbridges lying above the water and leading into the darkness of the night.
Quite tired from the day, we went forward. When we reached approximately the middle of the lake, it turned out that the wooden platform gradually went into the water with its right side, and only part of the left side of the bridge remained above the water. After about three meters, the wooden platform also gradually completely emerges from the water. I went first and, when I reached the middle of the gap, my feet in rubber boots were in the water and it was good that I was able to hold on to the left side of the flooring, which was above the water, with my hand. There was a moment in the middle when my right foot slipped and the backpack pulled me down. With great effort, I managed to do push-ups on my left leg and maintain my balance. The wife saw all this and successfully repeated this risky maneuver.
Fortunately, on the second lake the bridges were in order, and we safely reached solid ground. Now we had to find our hidden things. In the dark this turned out to be no easy task. When we were hiding a week ago, everything seemed very simple and clear: here is the path, here are the birch marks, then 30 steps to the left, perpendicular to the path and a noticeable tree with large roots. But in the dark I had to make several unsuccessful approaches, then even return to the outskirts near the village of Aranets and again walk along the path to the turning point. To our great joy, everything turned out to be safe and sound and half an hour later our tent stood on the banks of the Pechora.
Bad weather. The village of Aranets on Pechora.
Early in the morning we were awakened by a man's voice. I got out of the tent and saw a man. He turned out to be a resident of the village of Aranets, mainly engaged in fishing. After apologizing, he asked where we came from. Having made sure that last night we had come from the direction of the Ural Mountains, he told us the reason for his early visit to us.
An old friend came to stay with him from Latvia (if my memory serves me correctly, it seems they served in the army together). A friend decided to go for a walk to the Ural mountains. He took the owner's gun, rope and dog and left. You probably already guessed that it was the “Balt” that we met on the trail when we walked there and back. The man said the dog returned alone two days ago. We told him about our meetings with his friend. He was very surprised when we told him that his friend was without a gun. The man thanked us. Seeing a bag of mushrooms, he suggested replacing the boletus mushrooms with salted whitefish. We offered him to pick up the mushrooms just like that, because we most likely weren’t going to be cooking. We packed our tent and waited for the motor ship Zarya to get to the city of Pechora. In the afternoon, the Aranets fisherman appeared again and told us the end of this story with his friend, of which we had become unwitting witnesses.
He said that his friend had returned. It turns out that he hid the gun to make it easier to walk, then he could not find this place. Unfortunately for him, he walked in boots, without foot wraps, and rubbed his feet until they bled, then the dog left him. He finally returned today with the gun, emaciated and exhausted. Now various lotions are being given to his legs.
The fisherman nevertheless brought us the promised whitefish, but we never told him about the loss of our “emergency reserve.” At first, of course, we were angry with his friend, but then, upon reflection, we understood the situation. Apparently the dog found our groceries, but the bag was filled with rocks. Most likely, she began to bark and our fisherman’s “Baltic guest” came to bark. Being hungry, he was forced to take our food. May God forgive him.
In the evening we boarded the Zarya and went to the city of Pechora, from where we were to move on to the third and final route along the Subpolar Urals.
This is the most famous, the most impressive and the most beautiful of the geographical regions in the Ural Mountains chain. Small in length, it is the most powerful in height and number of mountains, ridges and massifs. Here is the main peak of the Urals - Narodnaya (1895 m), and some of the most beautiful mountains in the entire Urals - Manaraga and Sablya.
Immediately behind Shchugor, the watershed Research Range begins, running strictly north, with famous peaks such as Neroika, Tatishcheva, Narodnaya, Karpinsky. Even further north of the mountain, the Narodo-Itinsky ridge continues, running to the northeast. In the area of Mount Narodnaya there is a powerful tectonic uplift over a large area, up to 100 km wide.
The northern border of the Subpolar Urals passes in the area of the Khulga River, which originates a little south of Mount Grubee-Iz.
In the west, this mountain range is closed by the Sablya ridge. Between Saber and Narodnaya, among other interesting peaks, the beautiful Manaraga stands out with its unusual shape.
The relief of the ridges is mainly alpine, with traces of cirque-valley glaciation, with deep trough valleys and moraine ridges - traces of ancient glaciation.
The area is often visited by tourists, mainly in the Sabli–Narodnaya area, although there are many interesting peaks, lakes, waterfalls and glaciers. It is quite difficult to travel through the entire Subpolar Urals. The expedition “Big Ural-91” covered this path from the weather station at Shchugor to Narodnaya in 11 days, and the entire Subpolar Urals and part of the Polar to the railway near the village of Polyarny in 32 days, carrying a month’s supply of food in backpacks.
We offer to see the most beautiful places of the Subpolar Urals in relaxation mode, without backpacks, taking care of food and firewood with a lot of vivid impressions and a trophy catch.
Climate, suffice it to say that winter lasts from 7 to 9 months. The permafrost reaches a depth of 25-100 m. Unlike the Northern Urals, there are many glaciers here; scientists have counted about thirty of them.
We invite you to the Subpolar Urals - touch the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Virgin Komi Forests"
Mount Neroika
Translated from Mansi "Old man (man) is a mountain."
According to the Mansi, the world invisible to us is inhabited by spirits. Every swamp, every lake, every meadow, as well as every bay and steep river bank, has its own spirit, be it male or female; in some places there are several.
Within the Subpolar Urals on the Sygva and its tributaries, the Ner oika was considered the owner. No one can find the doors of his “crystal house” to this day. Whoever tried to do this, everyone died. Ner oika is considered the most peaceful hero. He was so strong that he did not take up arms, he did not shed blood, and his enemies fled or turned to stone at his mere glance.
He was the owner of all the deer in the Urals, and is also known for the fact that he stole the wife of his older brother and for this he paid off with all his deer, except for one choir and one important woman. But Ner oika’s deer did not follow his brother and ran away. Since then, on the middle and lower reaches of the Sosva there have been many wild deer and no domestic ones at all.
Nearby there is a mountain called Ner equa - the wife of Ner oik`i. The Mansi don’t go to this mountain. This mountain is so sacred that during the ritual of worshiping it, food is held at a great distance from the mountain itself.
Pyramid
A beautiful mountain of a regular quadrangular shape, the slopes are kurumnik and scree, i.e. stones, which suggests its artificial origin, but upon closer examination you notice that this is not the case. It stands on the very edge of the main ridge, almost separately. It's impossible to mix it up.
Mount Saber
Mt. Sablya, 1497.4 m - the highest peak in the Sablinsky ridge. The entire ridge has a bright alpine appearance, but the real decoration in it is Sabli Peak, a kind of Ural Matten Horn. The Sablinsky ridge stands alone, far to the west from the main high-mountain region of the Subpolar Urals, and its sharp-headed peaks contrast expressively with the vast plain (Aranets swamps) at the foot.
The ridge has a steep eastern slope with impassable passes. The city of Sablya breaks off to the east with especially high and steep walls; its plumb lines of many hundreds of meters are a record for the Subpolar Urals. The western slopes are gentler, from here you can climb Saber without alpine equipment. A simple climb along the ravine from the forest border leads to a clearing with a lake (~840 m), then goes ~30 degrees. ascent along a talus ravine to the saddle of the Hoffmann Pass (~1200 m). Next, a slightly more difficult climb along the ridge (with a bypass of the rock gendarmes along the shelves on the right) to the couloir leading to the summit peak. Here it is advisable that the peak is not hidden by clouds, otherwise you can easily get lost among the rocky cornices and end up in dangerous areas.
Manaraga - “Queen of the Mountains” and
Narodnaya – “Top of the Big Urals”
(UNESCO World Heritage Site "Virgin Forests of Komi")The Hungarian scientist A. Reguli first wrote about it in the mid-19th century in his reports on a trip to the Urals. This peak has the original Mansi name - Pungk Ur. Reguli gives several translation options - apex, apex, sting, thorn, crown, crown, head, tooth. “Here the Urals are the highest.” Indeed, in 1927 the priority of the height of Pungk Ur was instrumentally proven. However, in 1927, the highest Ural peak was given a new name - Mount Narodnaya.
You can climb to the top from the west, along the ridge, along rocky slopes, between the pens, but this is more difficult. It’s easier to reach the mountain along the spurs from the north... From here the easiest climb is. The slopes of the mountain are composed of gneisses and metamorphic schists. They contain a lot of quartz, so the highest peak of the Urals differs sharply from all others with its steely dark gray color... Behind each ridge, which seems to be the last, a new one opens.
Mount Narodnaya does not stand out in any way from the surrounding communities. The same inaccessible slopes, pits and cirques filled with snow and ice, small mountain lakes with clear and icy water, powerful accumulations of stone boulders on the peaks and slopes. And yet, a few dozen extra meters put it in first place among all the mountains of the Urals. The second highest Ural peak, Mount Manaraga (1820 meters), was explored in the summer of 1935 by a small geological party led by A. A. Chernov in the upper reaches of the Kosyu River (Western Saledy ridge). (N.P. Arkhipova. How the Ural Mountains were discovered. 1977)
Manaraga translates to "bear's paw". Indeed, the shape of the mountain is very unusual and with its “watchtowers” it resembles a bear’s paw. This peak cannot be confused with any other peak in the world. She has her own unique charm and witchcraft appeal. Everyone definitely wants to return to Manaraga.
We got up at 4 o'clock in the morning. Before breakfast, I discovered that the bag in which I put the dishes had been chewed, apparently rodents live here, so I had to burn it. An hour and a half later we left. The best time to climb the mountain. Having climbed the ridge a little, we walked along the bushes. Windy weather with gusts, but there were no mosquitoes. Further along the stones to the valley of the Närstyuyu River, from here it was very clearly visible. We noticed several deer without antlers crossing our path 500 meters away from us. They weren’t afraid of us, it was clear that they expressed surprise, even at first I thought they were wolves. Berries are blooming everywhere in the valley, and in some places the golden root has already ripened. At the foot we saw another deer, this time with antlers. A steep climb over rocks, then over a snowfield, we reached the ridge of the mountain. The long climb along the ridge, according to the name of the mountain Telpoz-iz (“mountain of winds”) was completely justified; it was possible to hide only behind large stones. It seemed that it would be carried a little into the sky. Although at first the weather seemed calm, this was only the case in the northeastern part of the mountain. At approximately an altitude of 1100 meters we entered a cloud, and all that remained was to walk in it; fortunately, it was quite thin and you could see the slope up to 100 meters, although with the rise the visibility dropped to 50 meters towards the very top. A snowy area began there; at first, rare pieces of snow grew into a solid white blanket. At the mini foot there were tracks, apparently of a wolverine, in the freshly fallen snow. Apparently snow fell recently. To the very top there was an ascent through a rather dangerous section, I actively used my hands to climb the mountain, the fallen snow was fraught with some danger, I had to follow the path. It was easy to slip or fall into a crevice between the stones. At the top sat an icy pink teddy bear. While on tour, Alexander discovered a jar he had left several years ago, inside of which there was no note, no note at all, someone had taken it off but not left his. The ascent took almost six hours. Since everything was snow-covered and a strong wind was blowing, we didn’t look too hard and went downhill. The plan was to climb (reach) the second tooth of the mountain, according to the map it was even higher than nominal, but due to weather conditions we went down. It was much easier to go down, especially on the snowfields, although the stones were wet and you had to be careful, there was a slight slope along the ridge and then a slalom descent into the valley on the snow. At the edge, the clouds created some kind of arch, cutting off the valley from the rest of the landscape. On the descent, the sun was already appearing, it even became hot, the clouds had gone, but Telpoz-iz was still shrouded in clouds. Along the way we collected wild rosemary for tea, a very smelly coniferous plant, especially when you step on its bushes. Returning to the camp, where we had a somewhat late lunch and time to rest and dry our things, in the evening the road back to Shchugor awaited us. In the evening we also went back, having reached the kurumnik we decided to go down it to the river, where we had lunch. The descent is too steep, up to 60 degrees downwards on rather slippery and unstable rocks. We got to the river very quickly, then we followed it downstream on foot, in some places it was deep and we had to walk along the bank, after a while we found a place where we had lunch, from there we began to think about heading to the pass, to the Shchugor River. The trail was lost, we followed the azimuth to the central point of the pass, then descended, at the top there were alpine meadows, but mostly a swamp with sparse forest. The descent was difficult, there were rubble of trees, through a swamp with a cloud of mosquitoes in addition, plus midges. Tired legs clung to the branches, so that he fell to the ground. It’s hard to step in thick grass, the ground is invisible, and every step needs to be controlled. Coming out to Shchugor, we went along it to look for a place to spend the night; along the shore there was a thick layer of silt mixed with small pebbles, the earth was spreading, so that our feet fell through and got stuck. Telpoz also had chapped lips and nose; a baby cream that I applied to the damaged areas of the skin before bed helped.