Tour route fir glade camp cold. Hiking to the Kholodny glacier in Mramornaya. You might be interested

One of the last days I decided to take a walk to the Pseashkho valley.

photo of Krasnaya Polyana Mining Club

Pseashkho is a mountain range in the upper reaches of the rivers Urushten, Malaya Laba, Pslukh, on the territory of the Caucasian Natural Biosphere Reserve. Belongs to the Main Caucasus Range. The toponym “Pseashkho” is translated from Adyghe as “high-water mountain,” apparently due to the fact that several rivers fed by glaciers originate on the slopes of the massif

The Pseashkho massif is limited on the west by a trough valley with the Pseashkho pass (2014 m). This valley, about five kilometers long and about 500 m wide, was carved out by an ancient glacier.

Through this pass there is an accessible route from the north from Psebay through the Main Caucasus Range to the south. It was along this route that in 1835 the Russian officer Baron Fyodor Tornau penetrated from the northern spurs of the Caucasus Range for the purpose of reconnaissance in Kbaade (the old name of the village of Krasnaya Polyana) and further south to the Black Sea in the area of ​​the future Adler.

From the southwest, the Pseashkho massif is limited by the valley of the Pslukh River, from the east by the valleys of the Malaya Laba and Chistaya rivers, and from the north by the valleys of the Kholodnaya and Mramornaya rivers. The southern end of the massif can be considered the Aishkha pass (2401 m), the northern end is the Mramorny pass (about 2800 m).

This place is very popular among travelers and climbers. The easiest way to get here is to climb the Psehoko ridge (absolute altitude marks 1400-1600 m) on the Gazprom ski lift from Esto-Sadok. The ridge in its upper part adjoins the Bzerpi ridge, to the north of which the Pseashkho mountain range begins. To get to the Pseashkho valley, you need to take the lift to the Pikhtovaya Polyana station at an altitude of 1660 m. From here there is a road up through the Bear Gate pass (approx. 1940 m) to the Bzerpi circus and the Bzerpinsky cornice (approx. 2100 m).

On the Bzerpinsky cornice from spring to autumn there is a camp of the Krasnaya Polyana Mountain Club, where you can stay for the night. If you have a few days, I recommend stopping by. The surrounding area is full of interesting peaks worth visiting: Bzerpi peak itself (2482 m), mountains Tabunaya (2351 m) and Perevalnaya (2503 m). The cost of stopping at the camp is 600 (tent), 1000 (tent, gas), 1500 (tent, gas, food) rub. Yes, and, of course, you should purchase tickets to the reserve in advance for 300 rubles per day. The likelihood of meeting a huntsman, especially in the fall, is not particularly high, but I decided not to risk it.

At 8:30 the rise at Gazprom begins. Cost - 800 rub. From Pikhtovaya Polyana you will have to go down the ski slope a little, after which you find yourself in the forest and begin the climb to the Bear Gate. The ascent will take a maximum of an hour.

Morning peaks of Aibga. View from the lower station of the Gazprom GTZ.

Psehoko. Fir glade. The start of the climb.

View from the Bear Gate.

Bzerpi Peak:

Below is Krasnaya Polyana, the Achishkho massif rises above it:

Aibga again:

From the pass you can go to the right and climb to Tabunnaya Yuzhnaya, and from there to Bezrpi Peak. Or you can go left along a good path and, going around Tabunnaya, come out to the cornice. So I did.

Here's the diagram:

Mount Perevalnaya:

The road to the cornice. In the distance Pseashkho Sugar

Directly - Sugar Pseashkho (3256 m), on the right is Mount Tabunnaya:

Here it is, the Bzerpinsky Cornice. If you look closely, you can see the houses on it:

On the right is Mount Tabunaya Northern:

Here it is larger:

Circus Bzerpi:

Here is his diagram with pointers:

Camp "Berpinsky Cornice" at the foot of Mount Perevanaya:

Here Bzerp steeply descends from a great height.

Toilets on the cornice against the backdrop of Tabunnaya Yuzhnaya:

Observation deck:

The road to the Kholodny camp

Circus Bzerpi close-up:

Perevalnaya:

Pseashkho Sugar:

A good trail leads from the camp straight to Kholodnoye. This will take you approximately three hours. On the way you can walk to the Jitaku Valley to the seven lakes. You will have to spend the night in the Kholodny camp. They say that some people get impudent and set up tents near lakes, but for this, if anything happens, a fine of 5,000 rubles is imposed. Camp “Kholodny” was no longer functioning, and I didn’t have a tent with me, so I had time to do everything about everything - November daylight hours. We had to return to the last descent from Pikhtovaya Polyana at seven o'clock. There was no question of going to Kholodny. I mean, you could run away, but you would immediately have to go back, and there is a beautiful glacier there, and it would be a shame not to hang out there. So I preferred to go to Semiozerye.

More on this later...

P.S. Alas, we may soon not recognize these places. Gazprom oh...l and wants

Immediately after the sudden Kranopolyan snowfalls this fall, we went to the Caucasus Nature Reserve. To the "cornice", Lake Dzitaku and to the Kholodny camp. To say “beautiful” is to say nothing. A few photos and words underneath them are below.

On Bzerpinsky cornice you can go there and back in a day, thanks to the Gazprom-Laura ski lift, which immediately lifts you +1100 meters relative to the level of the valley and you literally walk through the alpine zone in half an hour or an hour.
But, if you have enthusiasm, then it’s better to go overnight.

Against the sky - Aibga ridge(from right to left: Gorki Gorod, Alpika and Rosa Khutor). Well, in the background is the Gazprom-Laura, from which you start moving.

Literally after 1.5 hours of a leisurely walk you are already on the “cornice”. The all-round panorama is good. Perhaps it is here, at the observation points of the “cornice” (Tabunnaya, Perevalnaya, Kogot) that the best views in Krasnaya Polyana are found! Although, someone might, or the GorkiGorod circuses, I admit.

The guys from the Krasnaya Polyana Mountain Club (KMC), who support camping on the ledge, wrote to me that "goes down the path".

Yes, it does. Still, 35-40 cm at above-zero temperatures is no joke. It is not surprising that on a 500-meter section of the trail we had to cross at least 4 small avalanche bodies (LS, size 1). But the period of avalanche danger has passed, the slopes have already unloaded, and you can tramp calmly.

And here is the campsite of the Krasnaya Polyana Mountain Club. This season the guys supported 2 permanent camps: at the Bzerpinsky cornice and at the Kholodny camp. That is, in the most correct places in the reserve, from the public. For very reasonable money, you can come and spend the night here without carrying tents, mats, and sleeping bags with you (a mega option, in fact!). That is, you can make a 2-3-day excursion to the most beautiful places of the reserve generally light, taking only a thermos, warm clothes and snacks.

Wardroom. Here you can cook yourself, or use the prepared food option. Comfortable. Well, sit down in the evening and talk about life, of course.

From this camp on the ledge you can make radial trips to observation points (Perevalnaya, Kogot), to lakes (Small and Bolshoye Dzitaku). Well, if you want to go deeper into the mountains, look at the glacier closest to Krasnaya Polyana, then take a walk to the Kholodny camp.

Autumn is coming...

Jitaku Lakes.

There are many places along the paths (well-maintained, I must say) - signs, stands, benches. All this was installed in preparation for the Olympics, but it is in quite working order, although the 4-6 meter snow cover in winter makes itself felt... So, if you see fallen stands somewhere, etc., especially on the slopes, do not be surprised , these are not some kind of vandals, but Mother Nature. Few things can withstand such a snow load in a humid climate.

In several places there are sheds and even shelter houses (here they are called “alpeshki”). This season, the reserve has put locks on the alps, so the “accessible yard” is over (accommodation in the houses costs 500 per nose, you need to pay when purchasing a permit to visit the reserve). But the canopies, tables, benches, all this remains publicly accessible. And it really helps when you want it already "finally sit down and drink some tea" with some kind of freaky look.

Many monuments and signs about events Great Patriotic War. After all, it was here that it was possible with extremely small forces not to miss and stop the German rangers going to the Black Sea through the Caucasus. The heroism of those soldiers inspires respect. Read the information on the stands, and these are the metal books on the stones (see photo). This is not an emasculated story, but a real one, you read and see "this hill that was held by 21 people for a month".

I have never seen such a number of WWII memorials as here in any place in the former USSR, although noting such things is one of my regional interests. There was an unwritten tradition of installing them in large numbers. Every holiday home, tourist camp and construction team considered it their duty to set them up for any anniversary of some battle or feat. Therefore, at one historical place, 10-15 of them could easily form.

But, the most amazing thing (and, again, causing wild respect!) They continue to do this even now! For example, this stele near the Kholodny camp was erected in the early 2000s. And this is not an isolated case.

And here it is Camp Cold. This season it is already closed (winter is just around the corner), the guys have closed down their farm. So there's no one here... grace. Only bears and red deer, and restless mice, are making preparations for winter)).

And here it is Kholodny glacier in your bowl. You can walk straight to it, the walk up the valley is not very long, just enough to stretch your buns.

In general, while it is raining everywhere and general "From St. Petersburg with apathy and indifference", we have golden days here. So, those who are still thinking about how to spend the autumn should think about coming for a week to walk through the golden autumn of Krasnopolyansk)).

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Receive pass to the Caucasian Nature Reserve possible in

If you have a choice of where to go - to the sea or to the mountains, feel free to choose the mountains. Because mountains are the best natural creation and phenomenon. The mountains captivate with their beauty, grandeur, tranquility and power. If by the will of fate or thanks to a crazy desire you find yourself at Krasnaya Polyana in Sochi, feel free to grab your friends, backpack, sneakers and conquer one of the most beautiful and picturesque mountain routes - .

The Bzerpinsky cornice is so named because of the name of the river - Bzerb and the steep cliff (cornice), next to which the Bzerpinsky cornice is located.

So, if you have a desire to visit the Bzerpinsky cornice, there is an active company (I would not advise one person to go, since nature is unpredictable), good sneakers and a backpack, the first thing choose a suitable date. The route is accessible to ordinary tourists from mid-June to late October. That is, in those months when the snow has already melted and has not yet fallen.

The route to the Bzerpinsky Cornice is located in the Caucasus State Natural Biosphere Reserve. This is a safe and easily accessible route that even children can handle. Along the entire route there are signs telling you where to go and how far it is to the desired object. The paths are all neatly trodden. Elevation differences - from 1600 to 2014 meters. The total distance that needs to be walked to the Cornice and back is more than 10 km.

The route consists of points: Cable car "Alpika-Service" (560 m above sea level) - Shelter "Pikhtovy" (1600 m) - Mountain "Bear Gate" (1900 m) - Mount Tabunaya - Bzerpinsky cornice (2014 m) - Pass “Pseashkho” - Camp “Cold” and back.

WHERE TO START A HIKE TO THE BZERPA CORNICE?

• 1. Decide in advance on the date of your hike and the weather. You can't go in the rain - it's dangerous. On weekdays the route is empty, on weekends there are people walking along the route. Personally, for me, it’s more pleasant and safer to walk on weekends, since the people around instill confidence that you are going in the right direction)) By the way, this is one of the ways to avoid encounters with wild animals.
• 2. After determining the date, calculate the time before boarding the cable car. The cable car operates from 9.00 to 16.30. That is, it is during this time that you need to go through the entire route and have time to return back. If you do not have time to do this, the cable car stops, and you will have to wait until the next morning, spending the night either in the forest or on the Bzerpinsky cornice in a tent.

Be sure to purchase tickets before going to the Caucasus Nature Reserve to complete the route. A reserve is a specially protected area that is monitored and cared for, and the maintenance of which requires funds. Anyone who understands this buys tickets without question. This is done either in advance or on the day of the trip. Aviary reserve. It is located in the same place, in Krasnaya Polyana, not far from the Gazprom State Transport Center. Ticket price is 300 rubles per person.

You can get to the Aviary Reserve on foot or by taxi; public transport does not go there. We always walked, it takes about 40 minutes in both directions.

If you really like to take risks, then you can go to the Bzerpinsky cornice without buying tickets. No one will ask you about them before boarding the cable car, BUT! you may be sent back halfway through the journey. Along the entire route there are rangers on horseback who check the tickets of all tourists. And if you come across a huntsman, be prepared to pay a fine of 5,000 rubles for visiting the Caucasus Nature Reserve without permission and go home. It is the sending home that is most offensive, since you have already covered a huge distance on foot, but you still haven’t reached your goal... We met such people in large numbers, and they were all upset. However, we also met other people along the route who did not spend money on tickets and calmly reached the desired point on the route and back without any trouble.

• 3. In order not to waste precious time, You need to board the cable car immediately after it opens.The Alpika-Service cable car is open from 09.00 to 16.30. Therefore, at 09.01 you should already be going up. The route starts at an altitude of 560 meters above sea level. The cost of cable car services in 2017 is 900 rubles/adult, 500 rubles/child. If you plan to go without an overnight stay, buy sightseeing tour “Pikhtovaya Polyana”, Returned on the day of purchase. If with an overnight stay - That "Piktovaya Polyana - Pokhodny" with exact dates of ascent and descent.

• 4. From Pikhtovaya Polyana The hike to the Bear Gate mountain begins. This is the most difficult and uninteresting section, after which many, especially girls, give up and go back. He is not interesting because you have to constantly rise up, no plains, only upwards. All around there is a continuous forest, mushrooms, trees, beetles. That is, nothing special at all.

When I climbed for the first time, I didn’t know what awaited me ahead. I just wanted to come somewhere and relax! You need to climb 300 meters in height, and the length is about 2000 meters. The climb took me 1.5 hours - this included constant stops to rest. For experienced tourists, the climb takes an average of 20-45 minutes. The main thing during the climb is not to give up! Remember that the fun will begin next.

• 5. Having reached the plain, I found myself at the top of the Bear Gate.

The peak is so named because this area resembles a gate separating the forest and mountain ranges. Well, as experienced tourists said, bears often walk here)

The first halt is located at this point. There are tables, benches, beautiful views. People sit here for hours, drinking and eating the supplies they brought with them.

When I saw all this, it seemed to me that I had reached zen and it couldn’t be better.

I advise you not to linger at the Bear Gate, drink some water and move forward.

And this is where the most amazing views begin! Cliffs, alpine grasses, mountain ranges, sounds of mountain streams.

I want to inhale and touch all this! Every hundred meters I stopped to take photographs.

So you need to walk another 2300 meters.

• 7. And so Tiny houses begin to be seen in the distance. The cornice is near!

Here, when it’s still a 15-minute walk to the Cornice, there are huge cobblestones on which everyone takes pictures. I couldn’t pass by either)

On the eaves there are small wooden houses, tables, benches, signs, gazebos, toilets, and a tent camp.

There are always people here.

You can talk to them and ask them about anything you are interested in.

Tents and houses can be rented for the night: everything is like at the resorts. Prices start from 1,500 rubles per tent; gas burners and warm blankets are also available for rent. I didn’t specify about food and water, but the clean Bzerb River flows nearby, meaning you definitely won’t be left without water.

Average, it takes 3 hours to get to the cornice from the Pikhtovoy Shelter. This is exactly the time that is enough to return and successfully descend on the cable car.

I really wanted to see the mountain lakes, so we decided to go a little further. After another 2000 meters there should have been the first mountain lake - Maloe. That's where I hurried. And for good reason! There is flat terrain, so this section is covered much faster.

There is indescribable beauty all around! Mountain peaks, fragrant herbs, sunbeams...

I want to live there!

On the way, we met one that appeared there in memory of the terrible war years of the Great Patriotic War. It was in this mountainous area that fierce battles took place between our soldiers and the fascist paratroopers who landed in the mountains to pass from the rear.

About 200 defenders of the Caucasus died there... Correct me if anyone knows more accurate information.

The Pslukh River, one of the tributaries of the Mzymta, flowed nearby. We heard her, but didn't see her.

And then it appears before us - a mountain lake with clear water! It is no more than 25 meters in diameter, I don’t know its depth, but near the shore the depth was very small.

The lake is icy, but I was hoping to swim) And all around are mountains...

It was here that we made a stop, having a snack with our modest supplies and admiring the beauty to our heart's content. While we were sitting in silence, we heard animal screams. Either “beep” from mountain goats, or “beep” from brown bear cubs. It became scary. There was no one in sight, but we didn't want to take any chances. We packed up and went back...

Last year there was just an activation of bears in Krasnaya Polyana, and before the hike I read a lot, how to behave when meeting a bear. Firstly, clubfooted people are as afraid of us as we are of them. If a bear appears far into view, Make loud noises to scare Misha away: whistle, clap your hands, bang pots and bottles. Secondly, a bear is an unpredictable animal, so it is impossible to predict what it will do next. Don't scream or run. But if Misha greets you from behind, then I won’t even advise you anything. In general, the main thing is to remain calm and control the situation, and change diapers after meeting him.

CAMP “COLD”

If we had more time, we could go even further - to the Kholodny camp... See even more lakes and even larger ones... But the cable car would not have waited for us. This thought that there is even more to see haunts me. And I will definitely return there again with an overnight stay so that I have time to see everything))

We returned just as the cable car closed. We made it)

WHAT TO BRING FOR A DAY HIKE IN THE MOUNTAINS?

Essentials: trekking poles(with them it is much more convenient to go up and down the mountains), water in large quantities, light snack food, camera, phone, warm jacket, raincoat, sunglasses, sunscreen, wet and dry wipes, swimsuit(if you want to swim in the lakes), passport, ticket, route map(given when purchasing a ticket for the cable car), money(if you don’t make it to the cable car, you will need to look for a place to spend the night). Some take rugs for sitting, tents, and burners, but we only went for a day.

FEATURES OF THE HIKE TO THE BZERPA CORNICE

FEATURE #1

The Bzerpinsky cornice is most often used by experienced tourists as transhipment point, not the end point of the route. Having reached the Bzerpinsky cornice, you understand that if you go further, there will be even more beautiful views and even more unprecedented beauties. Further - the mountains are higher, further - the route is more interesting, further - mountain lakes... And so on.

Therefore, most tourists set a goal walk to the Kholodny camp, see the lake valley of Dzitaku and much more. Such routes without an overnight stay are impossible. The distance along the chosen route can be more than 50 km in both directions. In addition, you can go right - towards Mount Kogot, or you can go left - towards the lakes. And I want to see everything!

FEATURE #2

Along the entire route, ABSOLUTELY ALL tourists greeted us. This is simply something incredible! Everyone is very friendly and understanding, happy to share information about how far we still have to go and what lies ahead. It was the first time I encountered such hospitality and warmth from complete strangers. There, in the mountains, there is its own party and its own atmosphere)

FEATURE #3

Because of the rangers, there is, excuse me, horse poop all over the route. They have a specific smell and are of considerable size. And so on every 50 meters. Therefore, the main thing on the way to the Cornice is not to leave the trails and watch your step)

FEATURE #4

YOU NEED TO CLEAN UP AFTER YOURSELF! How frustrating it was that even there, in the mountains, there were bulls and empty plastic bottles and packaging from eaten cookies lying around. Nothing can defeat human pig nature...

I recommend to anyone who is still wondering why to go to Sochi and what to do there, to come to this wonderful place and be sure to follow the route to the Bzerpinsky Cornice.

My other reviews about Krasnaya Polyana:

Thanks to everyone who read this long review about my trip to the cornice. Ask questions in the comments, I will be happy to answer them.

In the process of regular and frequent travel, fatigue began to accumulate more and more, not so much from the hikes themselves, but from the endless journeys by car. And so, for a change, I wanted to consider the option of a convenient and stress-free ride into the mountains using public transport. One was quickly found. The outskirts of Krasnaya Polyana with super-developed infrastructure ala - every whim for your money, in this regard, they simplify the task to a minimum: in the morning in Krasnodar you sit on a comfortable swallow and in the afternoon you find yourself somewhere in Rosa Khutor. After 100 meters you transfer to the cable car and after 15 minutes you are already in the mountains at an altitude of 1500 m among a centuries-old relict forest. What else do you need? True, it is not entirely clear why the swallow, instead of its characteristic swift flight, crawls along the rails, like a wounded horsetail? It's a little annoying, but it's probably the way it should be.

Outside the train window is the coastal strip of the sea. There are very few people on the beach, but all the pipel present at the moment give themselves over to the water element and take air baths to the fullest. Of course, the water is 21 degrees, the gentle sun of the velvet season. The most thrill. I can’t believe that not far from here, somewhere up there it can be really cold.

Civil, clean and cultured to the point of discomfort. AND The greens are still bright and fresh for summer.

I was kindly pleased with the initiative of the administration of our valiant State Committee for Nature Reserves to organize the sale of tickets to the territory of the reserve in the building of the Alpindustria shopping center, near the Gazprom Laura cable car. This eliminates the need to buy tickets in Adler or Krasnaya Polyana, as was previously practiced, and travel here with a transfer. As for the rest of the moments, I did not experience any special bursts of joy from the realization of my presence in the highly restricted zone of the reserve, rather the opposite. With a minimum of costs for arranging shelters, the money is pumped out here regularly, since there is an abundance of assorted people roaming along legal routes. The huntsmen are bloodthirsty and focused on unambiguous, merciless reprisals against illegal immigrants. Some specimens are so ferocious that it seems that if you give them free rein, they will shoot everyone around with their guns. Apparently, with a meager salary, all these crowds of frenzied tourists got to their core. Even in comparison with the rather conservative Lago-Naki, the order in the local diocese is almost draconian. If there, if you have a ticket for a “daytime session,” you can wander around almost anywhere, and even spend the night without much risk outside the designated areas, then a step to the left, a step to the right from the main path means execution on the spot. The tickets must indicate each individual radial, lake, and top of the head. And we also found ourselves in the active phase of the deer rut, which was the reason for the closure of some recently operating routes. This imposed additional restrictions on movement and general behavior. In addition to the basic prohibitions, in the reserve it was forbidden to smoke, breathe deeply in fresh air, take a leak in the wrong place, make faces and tease bears, pull the tails of deer, talk loudly and chase mating drunken hedgehogs through the bushes.

But at one and a half thousand meters everything looks a little different. Gradually the picture is changing.

Well, without excessive sarcasm, the territory mentioned here is actually favorable for active family recreation and fairly safe mattress-making for poorly prepared groups and individuals. Something between the purely wild and civil levels. The well-paved trails are equipped with signs and, in some places, benches, tables and even awnings. On the Bzerpinsky cornice there is a shelter with two houses for 20 people each, common outdoor toilets and government tents, rented out along with the internal stuffing necessary for overnight accommodation. The latter is for those who prefer to walk here lightly in exchange for the determination to part with the extra cabbage in their pocket at a price of 600 rubles. from the nose overnight (cheaper than shag!) The rest of the conscientious semi-ascetics put up their own tents in the clearing free of charge, but on wooden pallets allocated for this purpose, by analogy with the Fishtin shelter.
In summer it is probably very beautiful here, since the subalpine meadow zone from Bzerpi to the Kholodny camp is represented quite extensively. Now the grass has withered, but somewhere in June-July everything blooms and smells fragrant against the backdrop of snow-capped peaks. Well, the most interesting thing, in my opinion, is the multi-peaked Pseashkha ridge, exceeding the 3000 m mark, with its glaciers on the north-eastern slopes. But the problem is that from the path between the two shelters, only the Sugarloaf peak, or Pseashkho Sugarny, is more or less visible, and all neighboring panoramic high-rises, except for the Bzerpinsky peak, are prohibited. Some for now, others not at all. True, from the Kholodnaya River valley the view of a good half of the ridge with the glacier was still pleasing. And the valley itself is very beautiful. The glades, interspersed with birch forests, were vaguely reminiscent of Myrdy. Therefore, it’s still worth walking from the Bzerpinsky cornice to the Kholodny camp for the sake of this valley with a view of Pseashkha.

So, having stocked up with tickets, we board the cable car and sail through the air to Pikhtovaya Polyana. From there to the Bzerpinsky cornice there are two or three walks, depending on the physical condition of those daring and the severity of their burden. Half of the climb is covered through the forest, half through the meadow.

Volodya was so loaded with lard that one backpack on his shoulders was not enough.

Upon exiting the forest, travelers will find tables with benches where they can catch their breath and kill a worm.

From here you can see a nice view of Chugush, Aibga, Agepsta. Bzerpinsky peak is almost nearby. But there is no water in this parking lot. Minus one star.

On the left is Mount Chugush, 3238 m, with a glacier visible at the top, on the right is the trapezoidal Mount Vorobyov, 2854 m (when did he manage to do this...?)

Bzerpinsky cornice with a shelter in a clearing. This is something like a pass leading to the hanging valley of Pseashkha. The altitude is about 2000 m. It doesn’t seem like much, but now, when people below are swimming in the sea, it’s already steadily freezing here at night. On the left is Mount Perevalnaya Yuzhnaya, 2503 m. - an excellent panoramic point. But not to our liking...

Sartire shelter near a picturesque cliff. Not for use by those suffering from bouts of sleepwalking.

The fog is creeping on your heels. There was no trace left of the recent warmth. Cold and dampness will take over the position of this high-rise now until the next morning.

Only one tenant from local Sochi settled in one of the houses. It’s approaching night, the coldest of all that we captured there, and there are no rangers in the camp. And they are unlikely to show up. This advantage is worth taking advantage of. We spent this overnight stay comfortably and for free. At dinner, the boy said that just yesterday everything here was white with snow, and at night the thermometer dropped to minus 5.
In the morning we blew up in the direction of Kholodny, but with a run into the neighboring Dzitaku valley to the lakes. Along the way, in the upper reaches of Urushten, we turned to Lake Maloye, which, in fact, turned out to be not small at all, but quite decent, of medium size.

We returned to the main path, reached the adjoining Jitaku on the left and decided to run radially there lightly, taking only lunch and gas (balloon) . In order to easily find the backpacks hidden in the wind-worn low forest upon my return, I look for a suitable sign. This was a decent-sized pile of bear droppings right on the trail. You definitely won't pass by. We boasted of our goodness against her. Another 20 minutes walk and we are at the lakes.
Among them is one Big (that’s what it’s called)

and several small ones, literally stuck together in a heap, which overall adds originality to this natural complex.

There's nowhere closer...

The shores and shallows of almost all lakes are ideal for swimming. The water is clean and warms up well in summer. An excellent place for a picnic and relaxation, full of smooth and fairly trampled spots for tents, which clearly indicates their regular presence. But again: it’s too bad to officially put them here. Picnics and drinking vodka are always welcome, but while away the night, no, no.

Another small and torn one. A little further from the rest

We dined at the Bolshoi as expected.

We leave Dzitaka and return to the upper reaches of Urushten

At a noticeable bear mark we load the surviving backpacks that were not subjected to the beast’s search. Now - Cold. I hope he doesn't live up to his name too much tonight.

Holodnaya Valley. At the end is the Pseashkha ridge with the Kholodny glacier, which gives rise to the river.

We are approaching the camp.

Apparently you can’t count on a ceremonial meeting with music, gypsies and a tame bear.

Who lives in the mansion?

There are plenty of tent pallets and one guest house in Kholodny. There are no official tents provided, because this camp does not enjoy the same commercial success as the Bzerpinsky Cornice. That is, many times fewer people come here to spend the night. A separate house in the forest for the caretaker of the shelter. This unpleasant and unfriendly type checked our tickets, gave us something like a brief briefing, and shocked us with the news that it was forbidden to light a fire even in an equipped fire pit. Apparently, the dude mistook us for suckers without a clan or tribe. I had to convince him of the wrongness of such an erroneous position in life. Realizing that we wouldn’t be able to hang cheap noodles on our ears, he reluctantly turned on the rear, muttering with displeasure the condition that it was inadmissible to collect firewood within a radius of 100 m from the camp. Dear, what are you talking about? Yes, at least 200! Then the huntsman warned that at night, horned males, exhausted by love-sickness, would definitely scream around us. But there is no need to be afraid of them, he assured, and tightly closed the door of his own house behind him...

Developing a morning plan to search and capture a herd of wild bison

In the morning the weather is excellent again and we, having slept tolerably and not too frightened by the night roar, move lightly into the Kholodnaya valley to the glacier of the same name.

Crossing the Kholodnaya River on the bridge

Ahead along the way, the magnificent Pseashkha with the Kholodny glacier in the center opens up more and more.

We begin to climb along the rocky bed of the stepped sloping madder. The glacier once spread here, but then crawled up a considerable distance.

However, despite our best efforts, we were never able to climb the glacier. Just before taking off on his tongue, we ran into insurmountable obstacles. The snowfields that melted over the summer made the passage in the rocks almost impregnable. Stone, ice and moisture made a dangerous explosive mixture. In an unsuccessful attempt to force this matter unceremoniously, without equipment, Vovka and I almost got stuck in some butt and barely got out again, splashing out the corresponding dose of adrenaline. Olga acted smarter, turning on the reverse at the right time.

The walk to the Kholodnaya Valley also turned out to be useful because we scouted out the route to climb one of the three-thousanders - Mount Mramornaya, with minimal probability of falling into the predatory clutches of rangers. But this is a foundation for the future.

We return, collect firewood along the way and spend the night on Kholodny again. That night the deer trumpeted somehow less intrusively. Maybe many of them have already created healthy, strong families as an example and to the envy of fussy and stupid little people? By the way, due to ignorance, their roar can easily be confused with a bear’s and can be seriously ruined, tarnishing their reputation.

On the morning of the fourth day, we collapsed our portable camp and moved back to the cornice in order to climb Perevalnaya Yuzhnaya from there and explore the rest of the upper reaches of Pseashkha.

It's nice there, but we don't need to go there...

However, Yuzhnaya, to our sincere displeasure, was also “sealed”. Actually, the idea was initially hatched to climb Sugarloaf, but two reasons stopped us: the omnipresent fierce rangers and fresh snow on the entire body of the peak. Its ridge is narrow and its slope is very steep. And if you make a noise from there, you will poke your head down until you erase yourself. Not this time. Then the Bzerpinsky peak remains.

Climbing to Bzerpi Peak. View towards the camp. On the left is the same Chugush with a glacier.

At the peak. Height 2482 m.

Sunset on the Bzerpinsky cornice.

Fifth day. Descent down, departure to Adler and swimming in the sea. In some strange way, we found ourselves in Adler only in the evening. Horseradish decided to go not by train, but by bus. In the end it took much longer. At night, the oak tree pressed on the cornice, intensified by a cold, unpleasant wind, and here the heat was 30 degrees. What a paragraph! The daily temperature difference for the body is more than 30 degrees.

Taking advantage of Vovka’s hospitality, we had lunch at home and ran to the beach. They splashed into the water already in the dark. The body felt blissful from the freshness that suddenly washed over it. The fatigue disappeared, as if the hike had never happened. My sister went home straight from the beach, and I decided to stop at Vovka’s and swim in the sea again in the morning, despite the deteriorating weather. But the storm that broke out the next day convincingly cooled my impulse.

However, there was still half a day left before the swallow to Krasnodar and we needed to do something with the time. Therefore, Vovka took me to the Adler arboretum, which I really liked. It was raining, but we managed to explore the territory of the park.

Palm alley

Banana thickets

and bamboo

Redwood Alley. Another ideal place for a tent

Eucalyptus

Angel girl with the face of an old woman

Now go home. I feel like I haven’t had enough time, despite my almost week-long stay in the “south.” Apparently, this is a rare case when I didn’t rape myself to the core on a hike, but just warmed up well. Plus, golden autumn is a favorite time in the mountains. It's just a pity that it's so fleeting...