Black River Crimea how to get there. Chernorechensky is the longest canyon on the Crimean peninsula. Routes taken by groups
When preparing for this hike, I came across the fact that it is almost impossible to find a normal description of the passage of the Chernorechensky Canyon on the Internet. And even more so with good photos :)
Therefore, today I will not only show photographs, but also describe the route along the Chernorechensky Canyon. I hope it is useful to someone. The places are beautiful :)
May-June is the best time to visit the canyon. Lots of water, everything is blooming. Not far from the source, the Chernaya River is blocked by a dam, the presence of which ensures that even in spring there is no frantic flow of water in the canyon.
1-It’s better to start walking from the village of Chernorechye, so you will see the entire canyon. The paths from Morozovka and Rodnoy reach it much higher upstream.
The village can be reached from Sevastopol. Buses from 5 km to Ternovka (40 and 110) stop on the highway without entering Chernorechye itself. The stop is literally a few meters after the desired turn; we return and walk along the road for about 15 minutes.
2- Chorgun Tower - a landmark of Chernorechye :) After the tower there is a square with a well and a bus stop. To the left of the stop there is a large mulberry tree, behind which the street we need begins. Almost immediately there is a small fork in it, again we go to the left, to the store. There will be no shops further along the way :)
3- Leaving the store, go left, the road goes up. In front of the hill there is a barrier, next to which it is written that this is a state reserve and entry is strictly prohibited. We go around the barrier and move on :) At the top of this hill there is another fork, you need to go straight, in the same direction, along the main road.
4- The road goes straight down to the river and then constantly goes along it. We're upstream. The trail is good, it's hard to get lost.
5- It’s very pleasant to go.. spring nature, clear water, wonderful light..
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8- As I already said, this is a protected area, and it’s kind of impossible to be here. Along the way you may meet foresters. 20 UAH per person solves the problem, and even 10 for a student :)
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10- Along the way there are such backwaters.
11- Sometimes the river splits into several small streams, forming islands in the middle.
12- Bright sunlight, scattering through the trees and falling on the water, creates a magical atmosphere :)
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14- Here the river overflowed quite widely.
15- We decided to take a shortcut and wade through. A whole line of people has gathered :) Immediately further there will be a large clearing where you can relax.
16- We pass through the clearing and return to our right bank again. Usually the places where you need to cross the river are intuitively clear by the presence of logs there. The trail ends on one bank, and its continuation is visible on the next.
17- One of the landmarks is the German bridge. More precisely, what is left of it... Built by German sappers in November-December 1941. The bridge, suitable for crossing equipment, replaced the old wooden bridge.
Route map. Marked in red is that we have already passed from Chernorechye. This bridge is marked with a two on the map. 3 and 4 are canyon loops, which will be discussed later.
18- After the bridge there is a small wooden gazebo. I have a feeling that it will soon fall apart))
19- Again the river spills into several streams. Logs to the rescue :)
20- If there is a log, better walk along it, don’t repeat this! :))
21- Further, the trail takes us to a spacious clearing with a monument to partisans - another landmark on the way.
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24- Soon after the clearing, the so-called “pressures” begin - places where the rocks come close to the water. Ahead is the most interesting part of the canyon :)
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26- We make our way over the pebbles.. at first everything was simple :)
27- Next is not so simple. Before this pressure, we met a group of tourists from Minsk who could not get through. There is no path, you can’t walk through the water - it’s deep. There is only one way - around the top.
28- Then just as steeply down. I had to hold on to everything - roots, stones, just so as not to slide down this loose slope... my knees were really shaking :)
29- Phew, we went down.. in one of the reports I read I came across the following phrase: “the first pressure is something, but we survived.” I confirm :)
30- About 500 meters after this pressure, the road along the right bank ends! (Before the first loop on the map). Further and to the very end of the canyon the trail follows the left bank. Don't miss this moment. The landmark is a large clearing on the opposite bank. It is already clear that the good road continues there.
31- Crossing.
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33- Water constantly changes its color. From green to blue. Very beautiful.
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36- Having passed the first loop, we saw a convenient clearing for spending the night, right next to the water. They decided to stay there.
How cool it is to jump into cool water after a long journey! :)
37- Glamorous guys)) For those interested, I posted a little more of our photos in the album in contact: http://vk.com/album2920160_157387649
38- The seagulls are boiling, the sausages are frying :)
39- Gatherings by the fire, guitar))
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41- The meat is being prepared.. soon a delicious shurpa with a smoky smell will be ready:)
42- And again songs..
43- The night and morning turned out to be surprisingly warm, like for the middle of May. There wasn't even dew. We had breakfast, packed our things and hit the road again!
44- The part of the canyon from the first to the second loop is the most picturesque.
45- The road is not easy, you constantly have to walk along an inclined mountain, everything falls out from under your feet.. It’s good that it was dry.
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49- From time to time the trail leads to beautiful viewpoints.
51- Barrier.
52- Along the way we met cyclists. Simply beautiful!
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54- People without fear.. It’s not easy to walk here, let alone drive!
55- A little rest. By the way, we constantly drank water from the river, without any consequences :) Collect water where there is a fast current, and not stagnant water.
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57- Lizard posing:) Along the way we also met two snakes. I don’t understand them, but they are not small, fat, about a meter and a half long. It wasn't scary)
58- Soon after the second loop, all difficulties end. The river calms down, a pleasant path goes along the very bank. More and more large clearings for overnight stays.
59- The river spreads wider again, the current calms down.
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61- Someone got lost :) By the way, be prepared that there is no connection at all in the canyon, from beginning to end.
62- It started to rain. Slippery... It's good that we're almost there.
63- The trail will take you to the highway between the villages of Peredovoe and Shirokoe. From there you can take the Peredovoe - Sevastopol bus. They don't go very often. We waited for almost three hours. The last bus leaves Peredovoye at 18:40. But it’s better not to risk it and get to the track early. Or walk, catch rides to the busy Yalta highway.
64- Our adventures did not end there.
We didn’t have time to catch the train, so we took the nearest train Sevastopol - Donetsk, where we found ourselves in a wonderful group of women:)
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66- We had fun, talked about travel, sang songs:) the road flew by)
67- Reshat clearly attracted the attention of the little girl:))
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69- Well, I took a photo for memory :)
70- That's all for today, see you again:P
ABOUT Grand Canyon of Crimea (GCC) many people know - this is one of the main “business cards” of the peninsula - like, for example, Swallow’s Nest or Alupka Palace. If you are not a tourist, but you really want to see the BKK, buy an excursion that includes a visit to it - you won’t go through the entire canyon, although its length is only 3 km, but up to Baths of youth they will bring it. I’ll tell you about another Crimean canyon, in my opinion, no less impressive - Chernorechensky. Its length is 16 km. There are no official excursions there and cannot be - this is a water protection zone. A river flows along the bottom of the canyon Black, supplying water to Sevastopol. On the side of the Baydarskaya valley there is a water control post prohibiting entry into the canyon ( as far as I know, they only control the first two kilometers) , and there are also foresters who do not allow overnight stays, since the entire adjacent territory is a landscape reserve. But, nevertheless, there are people in the canyon, as well as tents. Taking into account the length of the route and the complexity of the terrain, it is generally accepted that it makes sense to enter the Chernorechensky Canyon only with a backpack and a mandatory overnight stay. We completed it in one day, leaving Sevastopol and returning there. Running over rough terrain for such a distance and still catching the bus is not an easy task, but it is quite possible.
About the Black River and the canyon
Chernaya is the second most full-flowing Crimean river after Belbek (1.94 m3/s versus 2.75 m3/s). Its length is 41 km. It begins in the Baydar Valley: the small river Uzundzha, reinforced by streams and springs, crosses the valley and leaves it with a new name - Chorgun (Black). A dam was built closer to the exit. Now the Uzundzha and all its other tributaries flow into the resulting reservoir, and one river, the Chernaya, the former Chorgun, flows out. Almost immediately, with its current, the Chernaya runs into Mount Kizil-Kaya and then makes its way through the rock massif, in which over many centuries it has carved a deep gorge.
It is more fair to call 16 km of the canyon a gorge, but 12 km of them are a real canyon: the flow of water rushes in a winding gorge formed on both sides by rocks several tens of meters high. Beyond the village of Chernorechye, the river enters the Inkerman Valley and flows to Inkerman, where it flows into the Sevastopol Bay of the Black Sea.
How to pass the canyon
If you go through the canyon, there are two ways:
1) along the river: from the Baydar Valley (from the road between the villages of Shirokoe and Peredovoye) to the village of Chernorechye (16 km);
2) against the flow of the river: from the village of Chernorechye towards Shirokoye and Peredovoye (the same 16 km, but vice versa).
Additional options for entering the canyon(in the middle reaches):
3) from the village of Rodnoe - 5 km to the canyon;
4) from Morozovka (Alsu) - 2 km to the canyon;
Since we were going to go all the way into the canyon, we chose between the first and second options. Arguments:
— the last regular bus to Sevastopol from Chernorechensky leaves one and a half hours later than from Shirokoye;
— it seems more natural to follow the river flow.
Although the bulk of the people prefer to move upstream, coming from Chernorechye, Rodnoy and Morozovka. In the last two cases, the lower part of the route is lost, but everything interesting is still ahead. Why do they walk this way? They are afraid of the water inspector at the top, who lets them out but doesn’t let them in.
There are trails along the top of the canyon, which are interesting to walk if your goal is to admire the panoramic views. In order to see the power of the river and the grandeur of the canyon, you need to walk along the bottom. There will be such a problem - “clamps”. These are rocks that approach the water close and vertically (and often convexly). You have to go around them on horseback or try to wade across the river and “seek your fortune” on the opposite side. The trail around the “pressures” on horseback often rises very high, there is a danger of going away from the canyon. For us, such wandering was unacceptable; the prospect of being stuck in a canyon or in the forest for the night without a tent did not suit us. We didn’t plan endless fords across the river either - spring was just beginning. This is possible if you stick to main lower trail : it goes along the left side of the river, then approximately in the middle it crosses to the right - the main thing is not to miss this transition. In general, the trails are visible on both sides of the river, and they are actively used.
Sevastopol. 5 km
From here there are buses to the surrounding villages. We need to go to the Baydar Valley, to the village of Shirokoe. In the Baydar Valley, the villages seem to be surrounded by a road, we need a bus “5 km - Peredovoe”. From the entrance to this so-called ring on the left (i.e., clockwise), the village of Shirokoe will be the first, but the bus can first turn along the ring to the right to the village of Orlinoe (the largest settlement in the valley), then return back and head for Wide. I wouldn’t be surprised if there is a flight that goes to Peredovoe via Orlinoe, and not through Shirokoye (i.e. counterclockwise). Although that side is the direction “5 km - Rodnikovoe”. In general, you need to check at the ticket office for 5 km which bus will take you to the desired location.
Wide
In principle, in the village there is no need to get off the bus. You can ask the driver, and he will stop outside the village on the bridge over the Chernaya River. This is the beginning of the route, if there is no water protection post on patrol. Everyone says that in the morning, before the work day begins, you can slip through. We decided to check this version - in the morning at about eight we succeeded.
To avoid spoiling your mood for sure, you need to get off the bus in the right place - in Shirokoye. Then behind the village we move in the direction of small hills: the one that is closer is Smnalykh. We leave it as we go to the left, then soon we take a right and follow the paths down into the canyon - ideally we get to the Kizil-kaya rock, i.e. to the beginning of the canyon. Time: 40-50 minutes. From the bridge to this place along the river - 15 minutes.
Kizil-Kaya - Yatlauz stream - Small and Big Gates (first loop)
In this section the river is still flowing calmly, although fast. The color of the water is surprising - turquoise-emerald, which has nothing to do with the name of the river. The path, comfortable and wide, winds along the river bank. There is the same one on the opposite bank. Lots of good tent sites. Purely. Even if people spend the night, they understand that they are in a reserve, moreover, in its water protection zone. Next, rock formations appear, the canyon gains strength - its walls, narrowing, gradually rise upward. Here comes the first “pressure” - you have to go around it, climbing up the rocks, then go back down to the water.
The river either rumbles on the rifts and falls in numerous waterfalls, or forms branches with pretty islands and quiet backwaters. In summer it is good to swim here - the water in the river is warm. There are also trout, but you cannot catch them. They drink water from the river. At the beginning of the canyon, before the rock starts, there is a spring.
The river in the canyon makes two loops, turning almost 180 degrees. In this area there is first stitch– the trail goes up and down, there are no obviously dangerous sections, the views are mesmerizing. If you have a tent, there is no need to rush further - the “heart” of the canyon is here, up to the Gate. This is the name of the place where two rock strata almost close together, and water rushes into the gap between them.
Foaming, the streams squeeze between the grandiose walls. The way up goes along a narrow cornice, but what beauty is revealed to the eye, your head is dizzy not so much from the height as from the smell of herbs and the spicy juniper aroma. Having climbed up, you should lie down and hang your head over the cliff: the violence of the water element is amazing! Then the path goes down to the water along the rustling scree of the slope. Here it is important not to get carried away by the contemplation of beauty and not to deviate to the left instead of looking for the channel. Therefore, you need to stay close to the river and prefer right turns at questionable forks. The path will soon lead to the water.
Attention! At this point you can interrupt the route - go on horseback and forward in the direction of the village of Morozovka.
Crossing from the left bank to the right. Right side. Second loop
It is important not to miss this place - then the left side becomes completely impassable for some time. A simple structure made of logs and branches serves as a bridge. The current is fast, but not deep. Then for about half an hour the path on the right bank goes along the river and looks harmless. We organized a halt at this place, admired the landscape of the very steep opposite bank, watched the rare tourists traversing its slopes at an angle of 45 degrees and higher - were they forced to end up there or weren’t they specifically looking for easy ways?
We don’t have to relax too much either - there is a difficult section of the road ahead - an extreme detour second loop. The “clamps” have to be carefully walked in places along the rocks with the risk of falling down into the water, then a section begins that is surmounted along half-foot improvised bridges-perches laid over the shore, the role of which is played by tree trunks laid one after another, including along sheer walls above deep water. Springing under the weight of the body, they are, oddly enough, durable.
Road to Chernorechye
At 16-00 we left the main part of the canyon, having spent eight hours walking, without particularly rushing. At the exit there is a second small spring. Next we will have a pleasant walk along a wide path to Chernorechye. There are still rock climbs, but less often and they are nonsense compared to what has been overcome. Pay attention to the remains of the German bridge and the Partizanskaya glade opposite. From here to the right - to Rodnoe, to the left across the river - to Morozovka. We should go straight. The Chernaya River is becoming wider and calmer. The bluish-green water seems cloudy, but if you scoop up the water with your hand, it’s clear and transparent.
After 1.5 -2 hours we arrive in Chernorechye - a 14th century tower has been preserved here, we can see it. There is a bus stop here from which a bus departs to Balaklava. If you are unlucky with him, then you need another hour to cross the village and wait on the highway for a regular bus from Ternovka to Sevastopol or catch a ride. Transport will take us to the same place where we left, 5 km away. The journey is over. You experience pleasant fatigue from the fact that the route has been completed and envy of those lucky ones who stayed in the canyon for the night - you can’t enjoy that beauty on the go.
Adviсe:
1. Go into the canyon, don't be afraid. You don’t want to cope with 16 km, you don’t want to jump on logs/perches over the water and climb rocks on the second loop, go on horseback from the observation deck above By the gate to the side Morozovki (Alsu). Don't go down to the crossing. From there - onto the Yalta highway and by any bus to Sevastopol. Get your fill of picturesque views, swim in the river, extreme second loop and avoid the tedious exit through Chernorechye.
2. Is it worth entering from Rodny? It is no closer than from Chernorechye. In this case, a complete upward passage of the canyon is assumed. If you don’t plan an overnight stay, then only a well-trained man can manage to run and jump on the last bus - public transport, as you remember, in the Baydar Valley stops working earlier than in Chernorechye).
3. And if you come from Morozovka? I’ll say the same thing as in point 2, in this case the only plus is that it’s closer to the canyon from Morozovka than from Rodny. In our case, it’s better to go to Morozovka (i.e. without backpacks and a tent) - it’s not far from the Yalta-Sevastopol highway, buses run there until late.
The route has been completed.
This route is for lovers of water and stone. The Black River is the deepest river in Crimea. The steep cliffs framing this river fascinate and enchant at first sight. The huge flow of the purest spring water of the river creates bizarre creeks and lakes. Sometimes our paths will pass at the border of water and rocks. More than once we will cross the river by fording it, sometimes we will climb up or go down along a loose path. But it’s worth it; you need to walk along the bottom of the Chernorechensky Canyon close to the water to see all the delights of this place. Having walked slowly through the entire canyon, swimming in almost every lake created by the river, relaxing in comfortable clearings, we will leave the canyon and take a bus to Sevastopol, where we will say goodbye to you. If you have time before the train, you can see the beautiful hero city of Sevastopol.
Hiking route:
1 day:
We meet you at and we all go together to the village of Chernorechye. From the first steps, a magnificent landscape of the Crimean Mountains opens before us; the Chernaya River, with its winding banks, leads us deeper into the canyon, revealing its beauty of steep cliffs and green meadows. We set up a tent camp in one of these clearings. The mountain river at our campsite makes a turn; it is in this place that a convenient backwater has formed for swimming and diving into the water. A bungee rope is tied to a tree leaning towards the water; by swinging on it you can fly to the middle of the creek and plop down from a height into the water. This procedure causes a storm of emotions and admiration, squeals and childish joy from the flight and surging emotions. All together we collect firewood for the fire, you will need a lot of it to cook dinner and sit by the fire, developing interesting topics of conversation, look at the mesmerizing spectacle of burning wood, making acquaintances , " ", conversations around the fire.
Day 2:
As usual, we will start this day with exercise, breakfast, pack up camp and walk through the picturesque places of the Chernorechensky Canyon.
in Crimea this is a unique miracle of nature!!!
For more than 12 km, starting from the Kizil Kaya rock, on the border of the Baydar Valley, the Chernaya River flows in a winding gorge, squeezed on both sides by rocks several tens of meters high. In some places this narrow and deep gorge is difficult to pass: the bed of the Chernaya River is replete with rifts and cascades of rapids, and heaps of stone blocks. On the slopes you can see huge ledges, reminiscent of fortress bastions, columns, pyramids, dotted with oak and juniper. And between the slopes, at a distance of 50 to 300 meters, the flow of the Black River roars. In size, the Chernorechensky Canyon is much larger than the famous “Grand Canyon of Crimea”, and in beauty it is not inferior to any of the famous canyons of Ukraine.
On this day we will walk most of the canyon, stopping at a place that has a huge cleansing effect! A beautiful powerful waterfall and a convenient backwater for swimming will not leave anyone indifferent. Here we conduct energy practices and lectures on bioenergy and psychology!
Day 3:
In the morning, exercise, breakfast, pack up camp and walk the rest of the canyon. Today our journey will not be long; in 1.5 hours there will be a new parking lot. Today is a day of rest. The Chernorechensky Canyon is a place of amazing energy and beauty. You can immortalize these beauties in a photo, walk around, climb rocks without limiting yourself in time. Take a ride in the turbulent stream of water on a boat and just soak up the sun.