Guide to Jordan - Freeride master (freeride is not just skiing) - LiveJournal. Following in the footsteps: a guide to Jordan Aqaba and diving in the Red Sea

Some time ago I posted a guide to Syria for discussion, which evoked a fairly wide response from the people. Continuing what I started, I am publishing the next mini-guide - about Jordan. I would be grateful for any corrections, additions, etc.

Historical digest
Jordan is located on the territory of the so-called “fertile crescent”, stretching from Egypt to Mesopotamia in a narrow strip. It was here that writing, the first cities, agriculture and much more were created. The cradle of civilization, so to speak.

Initially, Semitic tribes lived here, known to us under the Egyptian name Canaan. Then the Hyksos (“shepherd kings”) caught up. Egypt then extended its power to these territories. The “Peoples of the Sea” also did not sleep and settled on the Mediterranean coast. At the same time, events described in the Old Testament took place. The states of Eddam, Moab, Amman are formed and a long squabble of the Semites begins among themselves and with everyone around them. Meanwhile, Assyria comes from the east, and almost all local lands become part of the Assyrian Empire, which in less than a hundred years is squeezed out by Babylon and Media...

About 500 years before the birth of Christ, the Nabateans appear from nowhere. They engage in agriculture and trade, and build cities. By the 2nd-1st century BC. The Nabataean kingdom reaches its greatness, spreading from the Red Sea to Damascus, which they captured in the 80s BC. But the Romans come and make everyone citizens of Rome, including the Nabataeans.

Later, in the 6th-7th century, the Roman Empire (represented by Byzantium) collides with Persia, and they systematically destroy each other. The peoples living between them are being pressed to the fullest. But while these two powers are exhausting themselves in a fruitless confrontation, a new force is emerging in the depths of Arabia - Islam. In just a few decades, all lands from China to Spain become Muslim, and Damascus becomes the main city of the Islamic world. During the reign of the Umayyad dynasty (661-750), many castles were built on the territory of modern Jordan, Syria and beyond. But in the 8th century, the Abbasids became caliphs and moved the capital of the caliphate to Baghdad. The center of that world is shifting to Mesopotamia.

If at first Islam was tolerant of the “people of the Book,” that is, Christians and Jews and they were allowed to make pilgrimages to Jerusalem, then over time Muslims began to fall into radicalism, moving away from the covenants of the Prophet Muhammad. The Europeans, who had long had a grudge against the East and were just waiting for a reason for aggression, “exploded” and for about 200 years the “Crusades” continued (11-14 centuries). Over the years, many fortresses were built. Later, when every last one of the Crusaders was removed from there, Muslims occupied them and many of them were “restored” in their own way.

From the beginning of the 16th century until the beginning of the 20th, the Turks ruled here. True, they were greatly hampered by the warlike Bedouins. On this occasion, Sultan Abdul Hamid II, at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, resettled several thousand Circassians, Chechens and Dagestanis who fled from the Caucasus conquered by Russia. Their settlements in Jerash, Amman, Zarqa and other settlements were a kind of buffer against the Bedouins. But this did not calm down the camel drivers; on the contrary, they began to carry out revolutionary activities, which ultimately resulted in the Great Arab Revolution of 1916-1918. It must be said that she was supported by Great Britain, which initially promised Hussein (the sheriff of Mecca, one of the founders of the revolution) complete independence after the victory over Turkey. But everything turned out the other way around.

The Ottoman Empire, after it lost the First World War together with Germany, was divided between England, France and Russia. England received a mandate to govern the territories of modern Jordan, Israel and Palestine, so the Bedouins, of course, did not receive any independence.

Only after World War II, Great Britain left the Middle East, and Transjordan became a completely independent state (May 25, 1946), and Hussein's son Abdullah became the first king. He immediately went to war against the self-proclaimed state of Israel and seized land in the West Bank of the Jordan River. In 1950, Transjordan changed its name to its modern name - the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.

The following year, 1951, King Abdullah was killed and his son Talal ascended the throne, but since he was in poor health, he almost immediately gave the crown to his son Hussein, who ruled until recently, that is, for more than 30 years.

During the six-day Arab-Israeli war of 1967, Israel defeated the Arabs and regained the West Bank. Since then, it seems to belong to Israel, although the international community has not recognized this.

In 1994, Israel and Jordan signed a peace treaty and now, finally, they are getting down to business and not a fruitless struggle for “justice.” The emphasis of modern Jordan on the development of tourism and the service sector in general is yielding enormous results - it is now one of the richest and most stable countries in the Middle East.

In 1999, King Hussein died and now the country is ruled by Abdullah II, who is married to an Englishwoman, Muna, skydives, enjoys diving, and is generally a progressive person.

Visa issue
Everything is simple with visas - you can get them in advance at the consulate, at your place of residence, or right at the border, where you are going to cross it. A standard single-entry visa, obtained at the border, allows you to stay in the country for 1 month and costs 10 Jordanian dinars ($15). If necessary, it is easy to extend your expiring visa if you suddenly decide to stay in the country longer.

If you enter through the country’s only seaport, Aqaba, then you will be automatically issued not a standard stamped visa, but a stamped “Aqaba” visa. It's free. This is explained by the fact that since 2001 Aqaba has been located in a special economic zone, which is not subject to a number of taxes and fees. Moreover, if you ask, you can get it for up to 3 months. People enter Jordan through Aqaba, as a rule, either by land from the Israeli city of Eilat, located a few kilometers from Aqaba, or by ferry from neighboring Egypt. Once upon a time it was possible to fly to Aqaba from Moscow, but now this shop has been closed.

If you decide to get a visa in advance, even before your trip, then the scheme is as follows: go to the Jordanian consulate closest to you with two photos and money in the amount of the same $15, fill out the form and give it along with your passport to the visa officer. They usually don’t ask any questions, they only tell you when to come for a visa. As a rule, this is on the same day, after lunch. If you wish, you can get a double or even multiple entry visa, although it will cost more and take longer (a couple of days or so). In Moscow, the consulate is located in Mamonovsky Lane, 3., telephone 8-495-299-43-44. A double-entry visa can be useful if you decide, for example, to travel from Egypt to see Jordan and Syria, or, conversely, to travel from Syria to Egypt. In this case, you will cross the border of Jordan twice and having a double (or multiple) visa already stamped will speed up your crossing of the border and save you nerves.

Another important point that is constantly forgotten is that when leaving Jordan you need to pay a departure tax of 5 dinars ($7). The only people who do not pay it are those who are transiting through Jordan, with a stay of up to 48 hours.

Currency
The Jordanian dinar, or simply dinar, is a large and stable currency. For the last few years, 1$ was worth 0.70-0.71 dinars. That is, 1 dinar is not much, not little, but 40 rubles!

Dinars are issued in paper notes in: 1, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 dinars. Each dinar contains another 100 piastres, or as they are sometimes called - qirshes. But each piastre, in turn, is divided into another 10 fils (there are 1000 fils in 1 dinar). The main coins in use are the following denominations: ½ dinar, ¼ dinar, 10 piastres (kyrshy) and 5 piastres (kyrshy). Fortunately, almost everywhere the denominations are indicated in English, so you can more or less figure it out, although at first you will fall into a stupor.

Money can be exchanged freely in banks with minimal fees. You can bring dollars, European money, Syrian or Egyptian pounds, etc. to Jordan. - all of them are easily exchanged for dinars and back.

Language
Arabic is familiar, but English is also very common, and good English at that, so there will be no problems with communication. The percentage of English-speaking people in Jordan is the largest among all Arab countries (and there are more than 20 of them). Even if you go to a super-dead village, someone will be able to talk to you. This is understandable, Transjordan was a mandated territory of Great Britain after the First World War. And the country’s modern focus on tourism development is making itself felt.

Arrival
First, you can fly to the country's capital, Amman. There are now 2 direct flights a week from Moscow. This pleasure costs 15 thousand rubles. There are no discounts or special offers. So, if you fly by plane, it is still wiser to do it to Syrian Damascus for $450-550 (280 on seasonal special offers), from where you can get to Jordan, fortunately, everything is close here and public transport is well developed. You can also fly to Egyptian Sharm El-Sheikh using one of the last-minute offers and from there take the Nuweiba-Aqaba ferry for $50. In total, this option will not be much cheaper than the Syrian one, but it will turn out to be much more hemorrhagic.

If you travel by land, you can come to Jordan from neighboring countries: Egypt, Israel, Syria, Iraq or Saudi Arabia. The most logical and therefore well-trodden path runs through Egypt, Jordan and Syria to Turkey or in the opposite direction: through Turkey, Syria, Jordan to Egypt.

From Egypt you can only get to Jordan by sea, since there is no land border between them, although from Aqaba in Jordan, the nearby Egyptian city of Taba is clearly visible. The process of sailing from Egypt takes place on a ferry plying between the Egyptian port of Nuweiba and the Jordanian Aqaba. There are slow and fast ferries. The first one runs irregularly and rather slowly (4-6 hours), and the second one seems to be on a schedule once a day and relatively quickly (1-1.5 hours), although this is a trick. There may be excitement, or the necessary official may simply disappear somewhere and everything will take much longer... this is the East. Plus border and other formalities. As a result, traveling from Egypt to Jordan even on a “fast” ferry will take several hours, or even half a day. Ticket prices for slow and fast ferries are $35 and $50, respectively. If you sail in the opposite direction, for some reason the fares from Aqaba to Nuweiba are cheaper. This is probably due to the influence of the special economic zone.

From Israel, if you are already there, you can freely travel to Jordan. For this purpose, there are 3 border crossings: one near Aqaba and two others in the north of the country, near Amman. The most convenient for the traveler is the central crossing, on the Jerusalem-Amman road, it is also called the “King Hussein Bridge”.

From Syria, from the bus station located near the center of Damascus, you can go to Amman for $8-10 and 3 hours, without any problems. There are a lot of minibuses, minibuses and just buses running between the two capitals.

Hotels-hostels
If we talk about budget accommodation, then on average a cheap double room in a large city will cost $7-10. There probably won't be a shower there, although it depends on your luck. And in 10-15 there will already be a shower and air conditioning and even a non-working TV. In general, Jordan differs from neighboring Egypt and Syria in terms of prices for housing, food and entrance tickets. Not in a good way. At the same time, people in Jordan don’t really like to bargain, and dropping even 10-15% of the cost can be quite problematic.

There are also options for staying in campsites (in Wadi Rum or Aqaba). It will cost $2-3 per person for a mattress in a bungalow or cabin. Showers and shared kitchen are outside. If you live in your own tent on the campsite, then expect $1-2 per tent, sometimes you can negotiate for free.

Nutrition
You won't die of hunger in Jordan. A large number of street eateries and just street food will constantly catch your eye in any city. Fruits, sweets, freshly squeezed juices, shawarma, etc. - there is a lot of all this. Not as tasty and not as cheap as in Syria, but still okay.

Many hotels, even the most inexpensive ones, can offer set breakfasts and dinners. Breakfast costs between $1.5-3 and dinner $3-6. Delicious. If you buy food in supermarkets and cook for yourself, it will be 2 times cheaper.

Internet, etc.
Cellular communication works and is very good. The two main operators are MobilCom and FastLink. If you come not for a few days, but for a week or more, it’s worth buying a local SIM for 10-15 dinars with a certain number of USD. on account. All incoming calls will be free for you, local calls are cheap, and calls to your homeland are several times more affordable than using native roaming of MTS, Beeline, etc.

As for pay phones, they have been abolished since 2003, apparently due to unprofitability due to falling prices for mobile communications.

The Internet is widespread throughout the country. Moreover, one of the streets of Irbid, located in the very north of the country, was included in the Guinness Book of Records for the largest number of Internet cafes in the world. The average cost is 1-1.5 dinars per hour.

Transport
A large number of all kinds of buses run along the country’s roads, which, it must be said, are of excellent quality. For short distances you can use simple minibuses and minibuses, and for long distances you can use comfortable and inexpensive intercity buses (Jett, Trust, etc.). So, for example, going from Amman to the Dead Sea or Jerash will cost $0.5-1.0, and driving across the country from Amman to Aqaba will cost $6-8. This is 335 kilometers of travel. Not cheap, but not very expensive either. Fine. In addition, on long-distance routes, they often serve passengers free juices and light snacks. If you need to go to one of the neighboring countries, then this is very easy to do from Amman. The main flow of buses goes to Syria, but there are also some to Iraq and Saudi Arabia, so all you need is the mood and visas.

If you don't have much time, you can take a taxi for the whole day. It costs $45-60 for the whole car. This is a good option to quickly see the whole country. In 1-2 days, you can, leaving Amman, go to the Dead Sea, Petra and Wadi Rum, and then return back (or drive to Aqaba, and from there sail to Egypt).

You can travel for free - in Jordan, as in neighboring Syria, there is excellent hitchhiking. Many drivers understand that you are hitching a ride and do not ask for money. Some are even familiar with the very concept of “otostop”.

In fairness, it should be noted that there is a railway, but only 2 operating sections remain of the former greatness of the Hijaz Railway. One is in the south - it carries fertilizer from the desert to Aqaba (there is no passenger service). The other one is in the north - you can use it to get from Amman to Syria (Damascus). Trains do not run frequently and are very slow, so it is recommended to use them only if you have a lot of free time.

Crime
Jordan is a very safe country, but as elsewhere you must follow traditional safety rules: do not leave valuables in the hotel room; do not store all money and documents in one place; do not count banknotes on the street; Do not carry bags, cameras and other things on one shoulder; it is better to hang them over your neck, etc.

It is also not recommended to respond to calls from “volunteer helpers” who are trying to take you to a hotel or hail a taxi. As a rule, they have some kind of hidden interest, most often not in your direction. It is better to make decisions on your own, without resorting to the services of these people. It will definitely be cheaper.

Stores will often overcharge you for a product because you are “white mister.” Don't fall for these scams. Learn Arabic numbers and just give money exactly as much as the goods cost. Sometimes prices are marked. If there is no price indication, look at the amount that a local person pays for the same item and pay the same amount.

Yes, they may also give change incorrectly, based on the fact that you do not know all the local coins (and there are really a lot of them and not all of them have English denomination signatures). This is typical for tourist places, where people are corrupted by the possibility of easy money from “stupid” misters. Don't give them this opportunity.

Where to go and what to see

Amman
Capital of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. At the beginning of the last century, it was a simple Circassian village, now it is a huge city in which almost 2 million people live (in total, Jordan has a little less than 6 million population). It is here that the entire economic, cultural and political life of the country is concentrated.

Despite the extremely rich history in the past, today there are no special outstanding objects for inspection, with the possible exception of the Citadel. Therefore, Amman is best recommended for visiting in transit, or used as a place from which to make radial excursions: to the Dead Sea, to Mount Nebo, to Madaba, to Jerash, etc.

The city itself is quite hilly and has chaotic buildings. At the same time, houses on one street are often located at the level of the roofs of the next street. Walking around such a city is difficult and tiring, keep this in mind. One of the best options for getting around the city is a taxi. It is ridiculously cheap and much more convenient than all other forms of transport. It is typical that the vast majority of local residents travel around the city by taxi.

If we talk about the main historical attraction of the city, it will be Jebel Al-Qalaa (Citadel) on the top of a hill in the middle of the city. Almost all the peoples who once inhabited Amman left traces on it. Old Testament history, Hellenic, Roman, etc. is presented here. But the fortress and its contents are not at all impressive. This is understandable, since the 8th century (the reign of the Abbasids and the transfer of the center of the Islamic world to Baghdad), the former “Philadelphia”, known throughout the world at that time, began to decline, and by 1805, when the traveler Ulrich Seetzen visited these places, it represented only a pitiful a collection of ruins and shacks between them. But, nevertheless, images of ancient columns still located on the top of the hill are the hallmark of the city and are even included in its symbolism. You will see photographs of them more than once while you travel around Jordan. In addition to the ruins, there is also an archaeological museum on the top of the hill. Here are the “Qumran scrolls” hidden in 68 BC. in caves near the Dead Sea, and were found only after the Second World War in 1947. As they say, whoever knows, understands. The entrance ticket to the Citadel (and at the same time to the museum) is 2 dinars.

Yes, if you are thinking of seeing real “Oriental Markets” in Amman, then I will disappoint you - they are not here. Amman is a modern city, without the “air of millennia”. The closest real markets of the East can be seen in Cairo and Damascus. So go there for that.

All major cities in the country are accessible from Amman by public transport. Use it, it's cheap and fast. One of the places where buses (Jett and other companies) hang out in the city is located near Abdali Square. From here you can go to a lot of places from Aqaba to Syrian Damascus and even further. There are other bus stations, there are probably 4 of them in Amman.

Aqaba
A resort city on the Red Sea, full of hotels and foreign tourists, 335 km from Amman. After the 1965 agreement between Jordan and Saudi Arabia, Jordan's coastline increased from 8 to 26 kilometers. This was one of the impetus for the development of Aqaba. A visa-free zone has recently been established (since 2001). Therefore, prices here are somewhat lower than in other parts of the country. Many citizens of the country are trying to take advantage of this, exporting goods from here in clearly unauthorized quantities. Now there is talk about even greater expansion of the Jordanian part of the coast.

Coming ashore, you will see neighboring Eilat (it is very close, but this is Palestine), as well as the Egyptian coast and the village of Taba on the other side. And 25 km to the south is Saudi Arabia. Thus, on a small piece of land, 4 states meet at once.

The cargo port is located south of the city. Even further south, 7 km from the city center, there is a passenger port, from where a ferry runs daily to Nuweiba (Egypt). A ticket costs about $30. Even further south there is a large wild beach where you can spend the night for free. When you swim, wear shoes to avoid injuring your feet on the numerous corals and marine life. You can get from the ports and the beach to the city and back by minibuses at any time of the day or night.

In the western part of Aqaba there is an Egyptian consulate that issues both single-entry (12 dinars) and multiple-entry visas (15 dinars) within two hours. Since Egypt does not always issue visas at entry, don’t worry, get a visa here! There is no need to present any certificates or cover letters.

Dead Sea
A place worth visiting! This is the lowest-lying body of water on earth. Its level is more than 400 meters below ocean level. In addition, this sea is unique in salinity - 30% salts. It’s fun to spend half a day here swimming, sunbathing and just getting high. It is impossible to drown because all bodies are pushed to the surface. For the same reason, swimming in the usual sense for us is very difficult... rather, it is crawling on the surface of the water. A very unusual activity. Theoretically, by moving your hands along the surface in the desired direction, you can swim across this sea and end up in Palestine, but most likely they won’t let you do this and will intercept you halfway 

The problem with a holiday at the Dead Sea is that there is practically no public transport there (there are no populated areas there) and you need to get there either by taxi or by hitchhiking. Another problem is that you need to swim near a source of fresh water in order to be able to wash off the salt after swimming, and this imposes certain restrictions, since you need to go either to the only resort area in the northern part of the sea, or to hot springs further along the coast. You won’t be able to swim in other places (there is no fresh water).

The resort area has several hotels and a couple of campsites, for which you have to pay money to stay on the territory. The minimum entry amount is 4 dinars. If you have your own tent, you can pitch it and spend a good night listening to the splashing waves of the Dead Sea. I recommend.

If it is not a resort area, then the option remains with Hot Springs. These are hot and not so hot rivers with mineralized and very healthy water, flowing into the sea. There are several of them along the coast. The main ones are at the 70th kilometer of the road (from Amman), where Jordanians themselves like to relax. The scheme there is this: you swim in the sea, then you go to soak in baths with fresh water, then again in the sea... and so on until you are in good condition. Useful and all that. The main thing is not to overdo it. Yes, also regarding clothing - women should swim in skirts and long-sleeved T-shirts, at a minimum, so as not to attract too much attention to themselves. Locals generally rock out in burqas...

Petra
The capital of the ancient kingdom of the Nabataeans. Carved facades of tombs, patterned rocks, gorges - all this is the calling card of the country, its face. According to many, Petra is the most beautiful place on Earth. I don’t know about the whole Earth, but in the Middle East this is truly the best No. 1. So if you are planning to visit Jordan, be sure to set aside at least one day to visit Petra.

I will not describe Petra itself in more detail; you will read about this in the Anhar guide (see section “Guides and Maps”), or in booklets sold at souvenir stalls, including in Russian. It’s better to tell you about the hit and so on.

All kinds of buses go from Aqaba, Amman, Ma'an and other Jordanian cities to Petra, or rather to Wadi Musa (a town near Petra). It costs 4-6$. They live in this very Wadi Musa. There are hotels there for every taste, including inexpensive hostels.

As a rule, free mikriki run from hostels several times a day to the entrance to Petra and back. A handy option to keep in mind. There are a couple of kilometers to the entrance to Petra... but believe me, you are still in Petra itself, and there is no need to wind up kilometers along Wadi Musa.

Visiting Petra is not a cheap pleasure. An entrance ticket for one day will cost 21 dinars, for 2 days - 26 dinars and for 3 days -31 dinars (the fourth day is free). But believe me, the money is worth it. My advice is to buy a ticket for 3 days and take your time to explore everything, fortunately there is something to see. And on the fourth day, if you’re in the mood, you can take a walk to “Little Petra”.

Wadi Rum
In North America there are unique mountains of the Midwest (the Fisher Mountains, etc.), and in Eurasia we have Wadi Rum and in some ways it is even steeper. These are these outlier mountains standing right in the middle of the desert... and all around there are camels and Bedouins. In short, it’s cool, definitely go.

The closest place to Wadi Rum is from Aqaba. First, follow the Aqaba-Amman road for 65 kilometers, and then turn right at the sign, towards the border with Saudi Arabia and drive another 15-20 kilometers to the so-called “Visitor Center”. Here you need to pay 2 dinars for entry, since Wadi Rum is a landscape reserve. By the way, they also give out a free map of the area - a very useful thing. Then you need to drive another 6 kilometers to the only village in the reserve - “Bedouin Village”. Here you can find accommodation for the night in one of the many camps, eat, order a car, etc. If they try to leave you at the Visitor Center for the night or sell you a jeep tour, do not fall for it. Everything is more expensive and uninteresting there. You need to live in a Bedouin village. Accommodation costs from 2 dinars per person in a room without any amenities, but there are also quite normal apartments.

The vast majority of people come to Wadi Rum for half a day or a day to buy a jeep tour (about $15-25 per person for a 4-8 hour tour, but it depends on your luck) and, after riding it, return back to civilization. But it’s much more interesting to stay here for a few days, not only to ride a jeep, but also to go on a trek through the desert for half a day or a day (if you have a sleeping bag with foam, then you can spend the night), or arrange with a local guide to take you took me on the “Bedouin route” (an easy climb to one of the neighboring mountain ranges). True, both trekking and Bedouin routes require fairly decent physical preparation. Calculate your strength.

Jerash
The ancient Roman city is very well preserved. Along with Palmyra and Baalbek, it is included in the archaeological treasury of the Middle East. It is easily accessible from Amman (50 km north), from the already mentioned bus station in Abdali. Buses run quite frequently. There is a reason to arrive early in the morning and walk here for half a day and return back to Amman in the evening. That is, to make a kind of radial foray. Just find out when the last bus leaves - in Jordan there is practically nothing running after five in the evening.

Madaba
An ancient city, 33 kilometers southwest of Amman, famous for its mosaics from the time of Justinian and beyond. The most interesting mosaic is a map of the Middle East as it was in the 6th century. Its preservation, however, leaves much to be desired, since in the 19th century, careless builders who were ordered to build an Orthodox church over the mosaic destroyed most of it, out of ignorance. The church is active, and during services the mosaic is covered with carpets, so you need to look at it when there is no service. Entrance for tourists - 1 dinar.

Besides this one, there are a dozen more churches that are worth visiting. Also interesting is the Madaba Museum, which houses a large number of mosaics and their fragments discovered during excavations and construction at different times.

Mount Nebo (Nevo)
A mountain 7 kilometers west of Madaba, on which, according to legend, Moses died. At the top there are all sorts of buildings and an excellent view, not changed at all since the time of the prophet. There are quite a few Byzantine churches in the surrounding area. If you wish, you can visit some of them. You can learn about their location from the information stand available on the mountain.

Wadi Harrar
Here John the Baptist baptized Yeshua, or so it is believed. It is not for nothing that Pope John Paul II came here on a visit in 2000. This place is located west of Amman, on the very border with Israel (Palestine). Entrance 5 dinars.

Karak
A city located on the Royal Highway. The old city is interesting, along with the magnificent Crusader fortress, for which it is worth coming here. Entrance ticket 1 dinar. The easiest way to get there is from Ma'an or Amman by bus.

Desert Castles
This is the general name for the early Islamic palaces of various rulers in the Jordanian desert. They were created for the most part by the rulers of the Umayyad dynasty, when Damascus was the capital of the caliphate. Later, when the Abbasids came to power and the capital of the caliphate moved to Baghdad, they began to decline.

The best preserved are: Qasr Harran, Qasr Amra and Qasr Azraq (Azraq Fortress). All of them are located in the east of Amman, 75-100 kilometers from it, and if you wish, you can visit them all in one daylight if you rent a four-wheel drive car with a driver. If you are going to travel by public transport or hitchhike, then it is better to allow 2 days for the inspection.

What does it cost approximately?
So, well, a visa with an exit tax of $23, that’s understandable. Accommodation will cost $5-8 per day if for one and $7-12 if for two. Food - here the price range can be very large, but if you take an average budget option, then it’s $3-4 per person per day. Traveling by bus across the country ranges from $1 to $6-7, depending on the distance. By taxi in the city - $1.5-2 per day, either for one or for two. Entrance fees, if at a minimum: Petra 21 dinars, Dead Sea 4 dinars, Jerash - 5, citadel in Amman - 2, Wadi Rum - 2, Wadi Harrar - 5, Madaba, etc. 1 more dinar each.

In total, if you go for 10 days and explore Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, Mount Nebo, Madaba, Wadi Harrar, Amman and Jerash, it will cost about 200-220 American rubles per person. This includes accommodation, food, etc. Throw in some more for souvenirs, plus renting a jeep in Wadi Rum (or for a trip to the desert castles) and you get three hundred. It’s not particularly chic, but you won’t have to deny yourself anything. Agree, not bad. By hitchhiking, living in a tent and cooking your own food on a stove, you can not spend any money at all. But as they say, everyone “chooses for themselves.”

Recommendations
If you are traveling to Jordan on purpose, then budget at least 10 days for the attractions described above. If possible, I would recommend spending a couple of weeks to look at everything with “feeling, sense, order.” If you are passing through Jordan in transit, or you simply don’t have much time, then set aside at least a day for Petra and Wadi Rum, and another half a day for a trip to the Dead Sea. These are places you should not drive through.

Online resources on the topic
www.zharov.com/kuda/iordaniya.html - Jordan on the website of S. Zharov

www.ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%98%D0%BE%D 1%80%D0%B4%D0%B0%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%8F -Jordan in the open encyclopedia "Wikipedia" »

www.jordanclub.ru/modules.php?name=About Jordan - Detailed description of the country on the Jordan Club.

www.bigpi.biysk.ru/encicl/articles/63/10 06327/1006327F.htm - Jordan in the encyclopedia “The World Around Us” There is a lot of all kinds of information, but there is too much of it there.

http://ve.free-travels.ru/articles/item.php?country=jordan - A detailed description of the country, from the perspective of a hitchhiker and generally a free traveler on the Free Encyclopedia resource.

http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/middle_east_and_asia/jordan_rel_2004.jpg - a good map of the country.

Guides and maps
In fact, so far there is only one guide to Jordan in Russian - “Jordan. Kingdom in the heart of the East" (author: Anhar Kochneva). It was published in Moscow in 2004 and has not been reprinted since then. To purchase a guide, you can contact the Jordan Club (http://www.jordanclub.ru).

In Jordan itself, in tourist places like Petra, you can find guidebooks in many languages ​​of the world, including Russian. There are good photographs and diagrams, but the text leaves much to be desired.

If you speak English, then the Lonely series guidebooks can be very useful: Lonely Planet Jordan and Lonely Planet Middle East.

Free maps of Jordan and its individual places can be found in the country, in Tourist information, which are available in all major cities and tourist centers. They are often found at hotel receptions. If you don’t find happiness anywhere, go to a bookstore or souvenir shop near a tourist place like Petra, they will almost certainly be there.

Jordan is so beautiful and unique that it seems as if it has just stepped out of the pages of one of the Arabian fairy tales. The Kingdom of the Middle East holds many treasures and secrets of the past, but reveals them only to those who are ready to immerse themselves in them. Jordan has magnificent sights, amazing nature, sandy beaches and entertainment for every taste. There are just no crowds of tourists, wild queues and a feeling of deja vu. Most of what you see is absolutely unique, it exists only here and nowhere else. You will begin to wonder: how come you haven't seen all this before? And we will answer: miracles do not happen every day!

Wonders of Jordan

On the edge of the Arabian Desert, among the red cliffs, one of the new seven wonders of the world and the main treasure of the Kingdom of Jordan is hidden - the ancient city of Petra.

This stone city was carved right into the rocks around the 6th century BC by the diligent Arab tribe of the Nabateans, who turned it into the capital of their kingdom and the most important trading center. It stood at the intersection of the main trade routes of China, Greece, India, Egypt, Syria and other states. Merchants found rest and shelter here, and some goods, such as silk and spices, remained in the city. Petra was once incredibly rich, but then trade routes went by sea and the city was forgotten. The city was rediscovered by a Swiss traveler only at the beginning of the 19th century.

Al-Khazneh Temple in the Ancient City of Petra

To see Petra, you need to walk just over a kilometer through the high and narrow Siq gorge with high “walls” reaching 80 meters. On a sunny day, walking along these winding and picturesque corridors, you notice how their color changes from soft pink to bright red depending on the time of day and angle of view. At the end of the gorge is the El Khazneh Palace or the Treasury of Petra. A magnificent facade is skillfully carved into a solid rock - its height is 43 meters and its width is 30 meters. It's like a nine-story building. El-Khazneh Palace was built as a tomb for the Nabatean king and, of course, amazes with its splendor.

In Petra there are about five hundred remarkably preserved tombs, also carved into the rocks, obelisks, colonnades, temples, sacrificial altars, a Crusader fortress, and also a huge, amazingly beautiful Roman amphitheater. Its capacity is up to three thousand spectators. In addition, at the very top of the mountain overlooking the endless valley you will find the ancient monastery of Ad Deir. To climb to it, you will have to overcome eight hundred steps carved into the rock.

There are two museums on site that will shed light on the history of this extraordinary place: the Archaeological Museum and the Nabatean Museum of Petra. The exhibition includes archaeological finds made during excavations in the vicinity of this city, which is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Journey to Biblical Places

Many of Jordan's sights are closely related to biblical stories. It is here that you will find the place where Jesus Christ was baptized (Wadi Harar) in the Jordan River, see the cave where Lot took refuge after the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah, the ruins of the castle where John the Baptist died and the tomb of Noah.

An amazing experience can be climbing Mount Nebo (or Nebo), from the top of which Moses saw the Promised Land. Traveling through biblical places, visit the city of Madaba, where in the Church of St. George you can see a 6th century mosaic panel - a map of the Holy Land.

Mount Nebo (or Nebo)

Amman

Amman is the capital of Jordan, a white city in which the boundaries between antiquity and modernity are practically erased. First you will be surprised by the grandiose and majestic Amman Amphitheater (2nd century, capacity 6000 spectators), which is tightly woven into the architecture of the modern city, then you will understand that this is the only way it should be. Everything in Amman is harmonious and logical - one thing comes from another, as throughout the country.

During the day, take a stroll through the city, which is about nine thousand years old. On its territory you will find a lot of really interesting sights. Must-sees: Jebel al-Qalaa Citadel along with the Temple of Hercules, the Byzantine Church, the Umayyad Palace, as well as the National Archaeological Museum, the Royal Automobile Museum, the Sanctuary of the Nymphs and the King Abdullah Mosque.

Church of John the Baptist in Al Magtas

As evening falls, the lights come on and the city transforms. In Amman, you can have a pleasant time in luxurious restaurants, cafes and fragrant hookah bars, and at night go dancing in one of the clubs where the best DJs in the Middle East play.

Evening Amman

Shopaholics will also have something to do - there are countless boutiques and craft shops in the city. Jordan is very famous for its ceramics, colorful hand-woven carpets, jewelry and Dead Sea cosmetics.

Unknown pearl of the Dead Sea

When deciding to go to the Dead Sea, travelers often choose, although in Jordan there are no less opportunities to experience the magical effects of healing waters, salts and mud. 20-30 minutes will be enough to nourish the skin with valuable minerals. During this time you will have time to relax both body and soul. Local landscapes resemble clouds spreading across the ground - this in itself is a very beautiful sight. We are sure you will like it.

Jordan does not deprive beach lovers of attention either. Aqaba has beautiful sandy beaches, excellent hotels, many cafes, restaurants and shops. The city is located in the Gulf of the Red Sea, surrounded by picturesque mountains that create a special microclimate - even in winter, the water temperature here does not drop below 22 degrees.

Sandy beach in Aqaba (resort on the Red Sea)

This charming resort offers many wonderful activities: snorkeling, diving, glass-bottom boat trips and even a submarine voyage! There are several dive centers in Aqaba, so both beginners and professionals can admire the beauty of the underwater world.

The depths of the Red Sea hide amazingly beautiful coral reefs, sea turtles, small colorful fish, lobsters, crabs and nimble shrimp. Night diving will be a special pleasure.

Ancient citadel in Amman

With the Jordan Pass, you can save up to 40% on entrance fees and also waive the visa fee. How much does a Jordan Pass cost and what you need to do to avoid paying for a visa, read.

Visa to Jordan

A simplified visa is available for Russians, which can be obtained upon entering Jordan. Its cost is 40 dinars (about 3,604 rubles). It allows you to enter once and stay in the kingdom for no more than two months. The exit tax for foreigners is 5 dinars (about 450.5 rubles).

Apart from the Jordan Pass option, you won't have to pay anything for a visa if you're visiting Jordan on a tour of two nights or more (though we recommend at least a week). In this case, the tourist group must consist of five or more people. Please note that only selected Jordanian tour operators are included. You can find out more about the Jordan visa.

Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve

How to get there

Everything is very simple. From Moscow there are direct flights to Amman (from 31,500 rubles, travel time 4 hours 30 minutes) and Aqaba (from 19,500 rubles, 4 hours 20-45 minutes). You can fly from St. Petersburg only with a transfer (from 27,700 and 36,500 rubles, respectively). Check the cost of a flight from your city using ticket search engines, and see you in Jordan!

On this site, I rarely describe a day-by-day travel plan for a particular country. However, in the comments they ask questions about our travel route around Jordan. Since the topic is interesting, I will try to tell everything in detail. In the article I will take notes on how I prepared for an independent trip to Jordan, describe the path taken, show it on the map, and also draw conclusions and give my feedback.

We traveled to Jordan in January 2016, but the availability of attractions and methods of organizing the trip did not change in 2019. 🙂

Preparing for an independent trip to Jordan

Flights

Housing

We prefer a flexible travel format, so we almost never book accommodation in advance. As a rule, this happens a day or a day or two before the intended overnight stay. I am looking for accommodation on Booking, since there I have been assigned the status of “genius traveler”, and many hotels are provided at a discount (to obtain this status, you just need to register and book accommodation through the system 5 times). For those who have a clear travel plan or who do not intend to constantly move around the country, it is advisable to book a hotel in advance in order to have time to choose the best room in terms of price/quality ratio.

Insurance

I bought insurance on Cherekhapa, and chose Liberty from the options offered (good reviews). When the quality of insurance services is higher than prices, then it is better to buy a policy from Tripinsurans, but it is more expensive there. If you, like us, combine visits to several countries in one trip, then they can be listed in one policy (for example, Israel and Jordan). The amount of insurance services, as a rule, will not change. For an example of how to choose, I wrote at the link.

Visa

Before traveling, you need to decide how you will receive. There are different ways depending on the place of entry into the country: at the consulate, upon arrival, without a visa through the ASEZA FEZ, without a visa with JordanPass). We bought a single ticket and used it to enter without a visa + many visited.

Car rental

Our tasks for car rental:

• Pick up in one place (Aqaba) and return in another (Amman).
• Low rental cost.

On the eve of our arrival in Jordan, we wanted to book a car through Rentalcars, since it is clear which offices can provide a car in one city and return it in another. Despite the fact that when booking through this site, rental prices are often even cheaper than on the official website. But the hotel administrator in Eilat scared that the border had been closed for a week, and it had become impossible to pass through the southern checkpoint from Israel without a visa obtained in advance to Jordan. The JordanPass support service assured us that the innovations do not affect holders of this ticket, but we played it safe and did not book a car (in case they wouldn’t let us in). We passed the border without problems. As a result, we had to resolve the issue of finding a car on the spot, as a result of which we lost time and money. You can read it.

Our travel itinerary for Jordan

Map and description of the route around Jordan

As I said, our travel plan was quite flexible. You can see how the route of your independent travel around Jordan turned out as a result (our route is marked by day with lines of different colors, to get a better look, use the “+” and “-“ scaling):

Briefly about the route:

• Day 1. Aqaba and Wadi Rum.
• Day 2. Petra and Little Petra.
• Day 3. Castles Shobak, El Karak, Dead Sea, Madaba.
• Day 4. Travel to the north of Jordan (Madaba, Mount Nebo, the place of Jesus' baptism, Pella, Um Quays, Madaba).
• Day 5. Madaba, Jerash, Ajloun, desert castles, Amman.
• Day 6. Amman.

The motor rally along the route turned out to be 1214 km. Next, I will write explanations for each day. I will try to be brief, without unnecessary emotions, while focusing on useful nuances and time spent.

Day 1. Aqaba and Wadi Rum

• Distance: about 250 km.

In the morning at about 8 o'clock we checked out of the hotel in Eilat, went out onto the main road and caught a taxi to the border with Aqaba for 30 NIS ($8). A few days ago, an entry restriction was introduced at this checkpoint, but, fortunately, it did not apply to JordanPass holders. In less than an hour we safely crossed the border. The issue of renting a car remained unresolved; they did not book it in advance due to rumors about the closure of this border for tourists. For some reason, we decided that the airport is a treasure trove of car rental companies, where, having learned the possibilities and compared the conditions, we can solve the problem. We headed there from the Jordanian border for $15 by taxi. To our disappointment, there was not a single rental office at Aqaba airport, so we were forced to go to the city in search of the Dollar company (it was first on the list in terms of the number of offices in the country, and at the same time belongs to the budget class). Fortunately, the driver we recruited for $10 turned out to be an employee of this office and quickly took us straight to the boss. The choice of available cars was small; we had to take what was available for 27 JOD ($38) per day + 35 JOD ($50) for one-way rental (drop-off at another office). If you had booked in advance, the rental would have been cheaper. After examining and photographing the car, we signed the documents and set off on our independent journey around Jordan. The condition of the issued Renault Logan was so-so, but the car did not disappoint along the way.

Trifty/Dollar office in Aqaba

We drove around Aqaba a little, went to the fort and the museum, had a quick look at the beaches, and rushed off for jeeping, met the sunset there, and late in the evening we found ourselves in the city of Wadi Musa (Petra).

Day 2. Petra and Little Petra

• Distance: about 40 km.

In Wadi Musa we checked into the Petra Nights hotel for two nights for $35 per night. The hotel is very good, but Wi-Fi was not available in all the rooms. After having breakfast there in the morning (the breakfast is tolerable, but in my opinion it’s not worth the money ($7 per person), we set off to explore Petra.

Our hotel in Wadi Musa for $35/day + breakfast $7 per person.

The ancient city of Petra is one of the main goals of our trip to Jordan. The examination lasted from approximately 10.00 to 16.00 (if you move, you can get through it faster, in about four hours). Afterwards we still had time to go to Malaya Petra before dark.

Day 3. Castles Shobak, El Karak, Dead Sea, Madaba

• Distance: about 300 km.

On the morning of the third day we left Wadi Musa and headed north along the Royal Highway. On this day, the clouds were so low that they completely covered the car. Visibility tended to zero, driving along the winding road was almost impossible. We moved very slowly. On the way we stopped at the Shobak fortress, and the next destination on our journey through Jordan was Karak Castle. But then we decided to get away from the cloud and at Et-Tafilah we turned off the Royal Highway towards. The shores of the Dead Sea are located below the level of the world's oceans, so we managed to get rid of the cloud, although we had to put in extra kilometers.

Next was Karak Castle, after which we again went to the Dead Sea. Then they stopped at Wadi Mujib and at the salt pillar “Lot’s wife”. It was getting dark. We no longer had time to get to the Main hot springs and, having passed them, rushed to the ruins of the Mukavir fortress. Everything was closed there, but we watched a beautiful sunset over the Dead Sea with a view of the Mukawira columns. We arrived in the city of Madaba for the night.

Day 4. Travel to the north of Jordan

• Distance: about 300 km.

In Madaba we stayed for two nights at the Moab Land Hotel for $35/day. with a modest breakfast. Here we met Fadi, the wonderful Russian-speaking owner of this hotel. On a part-time basis, he conducts excursions around Madaba, and through his channels can also help organize excursions in other parts of Jordan. In case someone might find Fadi's contacts useful: Fadi A.Karadshih, [email protected] .

So, Madaba is a city of mosaics. Here they are preserved in various historical buildings and churches. In two hours you can walk around everything.

From Madaba we went to Mount Nebo, and then to the place of Jesus’ baptism. And then we fell into a temporary trap. As we approached the desired point, we were stopped at a checkpoint. Like a border zone, you can’t drive your own car, only as part of an excursion from the office, which you passed a few kilometers earlier. Well, we're back. Fortunately, the group had already gathered, and they jumped on the bus as it moved. Religious attractions are not included in Jordan Pass, you need to pay separately 12 JOD ($17) (P.S. now the “Baptismal Place” option can be included in JP for an additional fee of 8 JOD ($11)). At the final point, everyone was dropped off near the souvenir shop. The guide kept saying, “One minute and let’s go.” Half an hour passed, we freaked out and went on our own. We took a photo near the Jordan River and 10 minutes later we were back at the souvenir shop. As it turned out, without a guide, we missed the baptism site itself (it is not on the river) and visiting several temples. But for us, these are not the attractions for which we need to spend so much time and money. The bus was supposed to arrive in another hour, but we couldn’t wait that long and called it for an additional 5 JOD ($7). In general, allow yourself three hours to visit the site of Jesus’ baptism.

Day 5. Madaba, Jerash, Ajloun, desert castles, Amman

• Distance: about 300 km.

First thing on the fifth day we went to the ancient Roman city of Jerash, which is well preserved. Here you can walk and walk. Allow two or three hours.

The next target was the ruins of the city of Um al-Jamal on the border with Syria. After it, we tried to have time to see at least some desert castles. We managed to see only Hallabat and Hammam. There was no point in going further, since the sun had descended to the horizon.

In the evening, making our way through traffic jams, we got to our hotel in Amman, The Boutique Hotel Amman for $32 with a good breakfast.

Day 6. Amman

• Distance: about 24 km.

In the morning we went to the Amman Museum, but Kostya repeatedly missed the right turn, which is why we made two extra laps. The museum was closed. The next attempt was to get into the citadel, but here too, because of the one-way roads, we could not get onto the right street, which unexpectedly took about half an hour. We finally got to the citadel. We went and took some pictures. From here we looked at the amphitheater from above and decided not to go to it. There was already a catastrophic lack of time.

We were about forty minutes late at the rental office. There were no problems. We asked the rental company to find a transfer to the King Hussein Bridge/Allenby Bridge border, bargaining down to 25 JOD ($35). By two o'clock in the afternoon we were already there.

Traveling around Jordan - our conclusions and reviews

Jordan is one of the calm Arab countries in the region. This country is attractive for its Dead and Red Seas, interesting natural and man-made attractions, and religious origins.

It seems that they cannot be called high, especially in comparison with neighboring Israel, however, we spent more than $1000 in less than six days. Visiting some attractions (Petra and a jeep tour in the Wadi Rum desert), renting a car, taxi services, and buying alcohol will help to sharply increase the cost of traveling to Jordan. Prices for food, hotels, public transport, and fuel are quite reasonable.

Traveling in Jordan in winter is very comfortable, but the weather can bring surprises in the form of rain, fog, sandstorm (khamsin wind) and even snow. The latter is rare, but it can happen once a year. On the second day of the trip we found ourselves in Khamsin (Petra), and the next day we found ourselves in heavy fog (more precisely, a cloud that covered the elevated part of the country).

The roads are not ideal, but I wouldn’t call them bad either. Traffic is not high, with the exception of Amman and Irbid, where there are often serious traffic jams. In general, traveling around Jordan by car does not pose any particular difficulties.

✔ Positive sides:

• Interesting sights, as well as a rich cultural and spiritual heritage.
• The presence of the Red and Dead Seas.
• Quite affordable prices, except for the entrance fee to Petra.
• Tolerance towards different religions and nationalities.
• Unlike many other countries we have visited, they know the country of Belarus well here and immediately name its capital - Minsk.
• Friendliness towards tourists. The Jordanians constantly addressed us “Welcome to Jordan.”

✔ Negative sides:

• Poor development of public transport.
• The price of a ticket to Petra is too high. But not watching it while in Jordan is an unforgivable mistake.
• The slight cheating behavior of some Jordanians, which instantly evaporates if you don’t act on it.

In general, if you already have at least a little experience of independent travel, then traveling to Jordan will not be at all difficult. It will definitely give you a lot of rich and vivid emotions. I hope our Jordan travel itinerary and reviews will help you with this.

Marina and Konstantin Samorosenko

Hello! We, Marina and Konstantin Samorosenko, are the authors of this travel blog. All information provided on the site free. But if you want thank the authors, take part in raising funds for an expensive hearing restoration surgery to our son Elisha. Details and our history can be found.

Jordan is an amazing country that combines everything. There is the Dead Sea, where many come for treatment, wonderful beaches, coral reefs with the possibility of diving and, of course, a historical and religious excursion program; you can also find yourself in the real desert of Wadi Rum with your own eyes.

To find yourself in this wonderful oriental fairy tale, it is enough to take a flight that will last only 4 hours. This flight duration will appeal to everyone: elderly people, families with children, and all other categories of tourists.

Tours to Jordan are usually sold in combination, for example Amman-vacation on the Red Sea-Petra. Most often, tourists travel according to this program. In order to get to know the most important attractions of the country, as well as swim in the warm sea, because what vacation would be complete without the beach and sun.

Amman is the capital of Jordan; there are a large number of historical places here: the Roman Theater, the Citadel, the Umayyad Palace, the Byzantine fortress. Petra is a unique city in the rock in the middle of the desert, listed as a UNESCO world masterpiece.

Jordan will also be of interest to people who are deeply religious, because it is here that the famous Jordan River is located - the place of the baptism of Jesus Christ, the fortress of Herod the Great in Mukavir, the cave of Jesus in Gadara, the burial place of Moses on Mount Nebo.

The only caveat for a trip to Jordan is the small number of hotel... read more

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Jordan weather map:

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Cost of holiday in Aqaba. December 2018.

tour cost

There were three of us flying, my husband and I and our 1.5 year old child. The flight was from Moscow, we arrived at the airport in Aqaba, and from there by bus to the Tala Bay resort. The total cost of the trip for all vacationers was 95 thousand rubles. This price included flights, accommodation in a 4-star hotel, as well as all-inclusive food and drinks. We rested for 9 nights, 10 days. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel, and every day you could use the free buses that carried Aqaba vacationers.

Excursions were purchased from a guide from our travel agency:

We went on a sightseeing tour to Jerusalem, the cost per person was $250

Visited the Wadi Rum desert for $60 per person

Petra attractions cost $90 per person

Food and products

Since our tour included food, we almost always ate at the hotel. Once we visited a cafe in Aqaba, ordered shashlik with salad and lavash for 10 dollars and shawarma for 4. Local bottled beer for about 3 dollars.

Souvenirs and other goods

Aqaba is a duty-free trade zone, so it is very profitable to purchase equipment there.

For souvenirs and gifts, people usually bring Dead Sea cosmetics, creams, masks, etc. from there.

We bought a couple of women's bags at the market for $5, creams for $10, and gift magnets for $1.

Cost of services and entertainment

Since Jordan is located on the shores of the Red Sea, one of the most common types of entertainment is diving. We took a mask and fins with us, but you can also rent them on the spot for $3. Shore diving with a cylinder and a full set of equipment will cost from $50.

Total money spent on vacation

Helpful information?

Olga

Impressions from a holiday in January

January is not the best month for a holiday in Jordan. The rainy season begins in February (+14...+16, cold wind). At the end of January we barely had time to bask in the sun and swim in the Red Sea. We rested for a week, four of which were sunny and hot (+18...+23), and in the last 2-3 days the weather was constantly changing: sometimes sunny, sometimes squally wind and rain. Swimming and sunbathing are definitely possible, but it all depends on your heat tolerance.

Let me clarify separately: after sunset the cold sets in - you can’t do without a warm sweater or jacket. But I was satisfied: I can’t stand the stuffiness and heat well, but here I lay on the sand, swam, and walked around to my heart’s content.

If you like “hot” weather, I definitely do not recommend choosing a winter month for your vacation in Jordan.

Why is it better to vacation in May?

In my opinion, in April-May it is not yet as stuffy and hot as in the summer months, but the sea has time to warm up, and there is not such an influx of tourists and excitement on the beaches.

Holidays for the elderly

I was vacationing near Aqaba in Tala Bay - it’s a very small village. It consists of a couple of streets around a small bay with boats and yachts of local residents. This is a kind of holiday village for wealthy Arabs, and they come there on weekends or on vacation - mainly in the summer. Therefore, in winter it is very quiet, deserted and calm. For younger and more active people, the place seems boring, but for those who love tranquility, contemplation and leisurely walks, it is ideal.

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Jordan is a country that gives a real idea of ​​the Middle East with its culture and traditions. At the same time, it is quite modern, advanced and calm.

Here's what awaits you: the pink city in the stone of Petra, the ruins of ancient Greek and Roman cities, Crusader castles, Byzantine and Umayyad mosaics, the Wadi Rum desert, the Dead Sea resorts, nature reserves, places of religious pilgrimage, diving in the Red Sea, the nightlife of Amman and Aqaba...

We have collected all the useful information that may be useful for your trip to Jordan. Here's the content:

When to go to Jordan

The most comfortable time is from early March to mid-May and from mid-September to early December. In summer it is too hot for sightseeing, life begins only after dark. In winter it is cool to swim, the temperature of both water and air is around 21-22 C°.

In the desert and mountains there are sharp temperature changes during the day at any time of the year. If you plan to visit Petra and Wadi Rum, take warm sweaters and jeans with you.

What's the best way to get to Jordan?

The easiest way to get to Jordan is by air. In this case, you receive a visa upon arrival, and exit fees are included in the ticket price. Airports are located in Amman and Aqaba.

On average, a ticket from Moscow will cost $400-600 in both directions. The beach season lasts all year, there are no significant seasonal differences in ticket prices. There are more chances to find inexpensive tickets in February and March.

You can try to save a little on your flight if you get to Jordan through Israel. Fly to Tel Aviv or Eilat, and from there drive through land border crossings. In this case, you will have to pay exit taxes (from $14 to $51 in each country, depending on the border point) and pay for a taxi or bus to the nearest city.

Another option: since 2018, low-cost airline Ryanair has been flying to Jordan from Europe. There are flights from Budapest, Vilnius, Warsaw and other European cities. You can find round-trip tickets for around $70.

Option for adventurers: Jordan can be reached via the Red Sea from Nuweiba, Egypt. You will sail to Aqaba, where you do not need to obtain a visa. The voyage will take several hours and cost $75. Engaged in transportation ABmaritime . True, it’s very oriental: there is no schedule as such, everything needs to be found out on the spot. You won't be able to buy tickets in advance either.

Visa and exit fee

Citizens of Russia and CIS countries (except Moldova) receive a visa upon arrival. The visa is single-entry, valid for 30 days, costs 40 JOD ($56). It can be extended for three months, and then for another three at any police station. If you stay longer without renewing, you will be fined 1 JOD for each day you are overdue when leaving.

You will need to obtain a visa in advance to enter through some land border checkpoints. Conditions for entry through them change periodically, probably due to the unstable situation in the region. It is better to clarify the need for a visa immediately before your trip.

There are several options when a visa is not required:

• travel through Jordanian tour operators (independently or in a group);
• when entering and leaving through the ASEZA free economic zone in the south of the country, that is, through Aqaba. To take advantage of visa-free entry, you need to stay in the country for at least two consecutive nights;
• with a Jordan Pass.

Communication and Internet

We recommend buying a local SIM card. The easiest way to book an excursion, check the work schedule, and call a taxi in Jordan is by phone. Yes, and constant Internet will not hurt. There are kiosks from Zain and Umniah at Amman Airport (near Starbucks). For $12-18 you can choose a package with 2+ GB and calls throughout the country.

Recently, Umniah's rates for tourists are more favorable than Zain's. The quality of coverage and services is equally good.

How to get there from Amman airport

Queen Alia Airport is located approximately 35 km from Amman. The most comfortable way to get there is by taxi. The journey will take about half an hour. The scheme is as follows: find an official taxi stand at the airport building - pay the fare (about 20 JOD or 28 $) - get a receipt - give it to the driver when boarding.

If you are staying in Amman, inquire about transfers to your hotel. It may be cheaper than taking a taxi.

It takes a little longer to get there by bus (45-50 minutes), but it is much cheaper - 2.5 JOD ($3.5). Buses (Airport Express Buses) depart from Terminal 2 every half hour from 6:30 to 17:00 and every hour from 17:00 to midnight. The bus passes through these stops: 7th Circle - 6th Circle - 5th Circle - 4th Circle - Housing Bank Complex - North Bus Station. Get off at the one closest to the hotel and call a taxi.

Be careful with taxi drivers at the airport. They may convince you that the bus is not running today.

Through the application you can call the local equivalent of Uber - Careem. Uber itself also exists, but it goes to the airport semi-legally. This will not affect passengers, but drivers are afraid of fines from the police and are reluctant to drive.

About roads and transport in Jordan: buses, taxis, car rental

Main routes and routes

Jordan is a relatively small country. Attractions are concentrated in the west. They are accessible via several major highways that run from north to south and connect Amman to Aqaba.

1. The fastest and most comfortable road -Desert Highway. They travel along this route to Petra and Wadi Rum. Its only drawback is the rather monotonous landscape throughout.
2. Very picturesque King's Highway. In ancient times, there was a busy trade route between north and south. Driving along it by car is a separate journey. Along the way there are observation platforms, rest areas, and restaurants. Be prepared that part of the route is a mountain serpentine.
3. From the fortress in El Karak by Al-Karak Highwayyou can go down to the Dead Sea Valley and ride alongJordan Valley Highwayalong the coast. In good weather, Israel is visible on the opposite shore of the Dead Sea. And also, according to local legend, one of the stone pillars on the coastal cliff is the petrified wife of Lot from the Bible.
4. King's Highway and Al-Karak Highway pass through fields and small towns in places. Traveling along them will give an idea of ​​the daily life of Jordanians outside the tourist cities.

If you are traveling through Jordan by car, be sure to stop at a roadside cafe to try Bedouin tea and coffee brewed in the sand.

Intercity bus

You can get from city to city and to major attractions such as Petra or the Wadi Rum desert by bus.

A good official carrier with comfortable buses and a website in English is the JETT company. There are regular flights and daily tours JETT Daily Tours . Buses travel strictly to their destination, without stopping along the way.

A day tour from Amman to the Dead Sea and back will cost 10 JOD, a tour Amman-Petra-Amman or Aqaba-Petra-Aqaba - 18 JOD, a regular ticket from Amman to Aqaba - 8.6 JOD.

How to get to Petra

• By car from Amman - along the Desert Highway or along the Royal Road to the south. You need to leave from the 7th circle and follow the brown tourist signs. From Aqaba - along the Desert Highway to the north.
• By JETT bus from Amman or Aqaba.
• By minibus from the center of Aqaba. Dispatch when full and not very early. An option for those who are traveling to Petra for a couple of days.

Ten kilometers from Petra is Little Petra (Siq al-Berid). This is Petra in miniature with its rock temples, tombs, stone staircases and wall paintings. Little Petra was opened to tourists quite recently. A good route for those who come for a couple of days.

Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum (“Valley of the Moon”) is a desert reserve in the south of the country, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In Wadi Rum, cosmic landscapes, unreal silence and the realization that the desert is not only sand and dunes await you. There are many animals and birds that become more active at sunset, unusual plants, quaint stone bridges, rocks and deep canyons.

From April to June and from September to December, hot air balloons rise over the desert in the early morning. For experienced climbers, routes with ascent accompanied by a Bedouin guide are available. Lovers of rides can rent an SUV.

Stay overnight in a Bedouin tent with traditional dinner and tea.

The main attractions of Wadi Rum: Burda stone bridge, Jabal Umm Al Dami mountain, Seven Pillars of Wisdom mountains, Lawrence of Arabia's well, ancient rock paintings.

The tour of Wadi Rum begins at the Visitor Center at the main entrance to the reserve. Here you can take maps, rent a jeep, arrange an excursion and overnight stay, and learn about hot air balloon flights.

Cost: 5 JOD (free with Jordan Pass).

In the desert there is a big temperature difference, really big. From 35-40°C during the day to 0°C at night. Don't forget warm clothes and something for your head.

Wadi Rum: how to get there

• By car or taxi: from Amman - south along the Desert Highway (4 hours) or along the picturesque Royal Road (6 hours); from Aqaba - go north and you will be there in less than an hour.
• By minibus: Minibuses run daily from Aqaba and Wadi Musa (Petra) to Wadi Rum. You can find out about flights at the local bus station.
• Another option is to arrange an excursion at one of the travel agencies in Aqaba or Amman.

Dead Sea

In ancient times, the coast of the Dead Sea attracted kings, traders, prophets and pilgrims from all over the world. Today, tourists still come to swim in the healing waters and see the alien landscapes of the Jordan Valley.

Hotels are concentrated on the northeastern coast of the Dead Sea, near Amman and Madaba. Each will offer SPA treatments, mud baths, and massages. Jordanians themselves often come to these resorts.

The water of the Dead Sea is so saturated with salt that it keeps the body on the surface. Salt can be a problem if your skin has cuts or scrapes. Avoid shaving before traveling and keep water out of your eyes.

A couple of kilometers after the hotel complex there is a well-equipped Amman Beach with swimming pools, changing rooms and showers. Entrance 20 JOD per person. Nearby there is another beach “for locals” - without a pool. Entrance for tourists is 12 JOD, for Jordanians - 4 JOD. When there are few people, you can try to bargain and pass as a “local”.

From the Dead Sea coast there are several interesting hiking trails in the Jordan Valley, such as the Wadi Mujib gorge and the Hammamat Main hot springs. Any hotel on the coast will help you find a guide and directions.

Mujib Biosphere Reserve

The route starts at the Dead Sea and goes through a narrow stone gorge with walls up to 50 meters high. At the end you will see a cascade of waterfalls and rise to the Dead Sea Panorama complex with gorgeous views, a museum and a restaurant.

You can only walk the route with a guide. There is water flowing along the bottom of the canyon, so you will have to wear a life jacket and leave your expensive photographic equipment at home. Take rubber slippers for your feet, and waterproof bags for your phone and documents.

How to get there

It is quite difficult to get here by public transport and expensive by taxi. It is better to rent a car or book a tour at the Wildlife Center Wild Jordan.

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In Jordan there will always be someone who can take you, be a guide, introduce you to a guide (even a Russian-speaking one), and so on. Ask the staff at the hotel, probably someone's relative will be exactly the one you need.

Hot springs Hammamat-Main (Ma"in Hot Springs)

Once at the Dead Sea, stop by the Hammamat Main hot springs. Hot mineral water, heated by underground lava, flows in a beautiful waterfall from the rocks and mixes with the cold water of the river below. It turns out a natural swimming pool with a temperature of 35-40 degrees. They say that the king of Judea, Herod the Great, himself came here to recover.

The territory is equipped: there are toilets, changing cabins, and a restaurant.

A range of wellness treatments (mud, hydromassage, underwater massage, mud masks) is offered by the Evason Ma’In Hot Springs & Six Senses Spa hotel-resort.

How to get to the sources

By car along the serpentine road down from the Dead Sea, following the signs.

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Not far from Hammamat Main there is another place that is associated with Herod the Great - the ruins of the Mukawir palace on Macaerus Hill. They say that it was here that Solome danced her fatal dance, because of which John the Baptist lost his head. The ruins themselves are not of particular interest, but the atmosphere, when the wind blows among the ancient columns and there is endless space around, is captivating.

El-Karak Fortress

Karak Castle is one of the largest Crusader castles in the Levant. Built in the 12th century and well preserved. It is impressive with its size and underground communications.

The fortress stands on a hill from which very beautiful views open up.

The castle has an archaeological museum. Reconstruction and excavation work continues. Take a flashlight with you to see tunnels and passages where there is no light.

Cost: 2 JOD (free with the Jordan Pass) + tip to the guide (about 10 JOD) if you go with a tour.

The castle is open from 8am to 4pm from October to March and until 7pm from April to September.

How to get to El Karak

• By car: go down from the Desert Highway or from the Royal Road along the Al-Karak Highway or up along it from the Dead Sea.
• From Amman, minibuses depart from the Southern Bus Station (Mujemma Al-Janoob) and from Abdali Station depending on occupancy. Ticket - about 2-3 JOD. They arrive at the station under lock and key. Going up to the castle by taxi is another 2 JOD, but you can walk 20 minutes.
• Minibuses from Aqaba (1.75 JOD) run approximately once an hour.
• With a tour from a local tour operator.

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Amman

Amman is the capital of Jordan and one of the most liberal cities in the Middle East. Modern buildings and fashionable boutiques coexist here with ancient ruins and a traditional oriental way of life. Almost half of Jordan's population lives in Amman.

The main center of nightlife is the Abdoun Circle. Lots of bars, restaurants and shops in the Sweifieh area in the western part of Amman.

A good plan: walk around the city for a few days, and then travel around the surrounding area and to the Dead Sea Valley.

What to see in Amman:

• The Roman amphitheater is a grandiose ancient structure for 6 thousand spectators. There is a local market nearby, and colorful Arab streets lead to the theater itself. From the top of the theater there is a good view of the old city. There are two museums: the Jordan Folklore Museum and the Jordanian Museum of Popular Traditions. Entrance to the amphitheater and museums costs 1 JOD. The amphitheater is perfectly preserved and even hosts cultural events.
• Within walking distance of the Roman Amphitheater is the Sanctuary of the Nymphs (Nymphaeum), another traditional architectural structure from Roman times.
• Amman Citadel on Jabal al-Qala hill in the historical center of the city. It is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth. The most striking sights of the Citadel are the Temple of Hercules and the Umayyad Palace. Among the ruins of the temple is a fragment of a giant stone hand that belonged to a colossal statue from the times of the Roman Empire. There is an observation deck and an excellent archaeological museum.
• King Abdullah Mosque, topped with a blue mosaic dome. The only mosque in Amman that non-Muslims can visit (2 JOD).
• The Jordan Museum. The exhibition will take you from the first people in this territory through the Nabataean civilization to the modern era. The amazing and slightly creepy statues of Ain Ghasal (Ain Ghazal) are kept here. They are about 10,000 years old and somewhat resemble objects of modern art. Entry 5 JOD.
• Royal Automotive Museum in King Hussein Park. The museum contains a collection of royal vintage cars and motorcycles. Here, in the park, it is worth visiting the Cultural Village, where you can get acquainted with the traditions, life and crafts of Jordan.
• Amman water park.
• Rainbow Street and one of the most famous street markets in Jordan, Souk Jara ( location ). More about shopping in Amman - in the section “Shopping: what to bring from your trip.”

Madaba

Madaba, 30 kilometers from Amman, is called the city of mosaics. We are talking about a collection of mosaics from the Byzantine era. The most famous of them is the 6th century map of Jerusalem and the Holy Land. on the floor of St. George's Church. But there are many others in different parts of the city that are not inferior in color and saturation.

Check out the Madaba Museum for its magnificent mosaic tiles, antique clothing, pottery and jewelry.

How to get there?

• By car or taxi on the road from Amman to the airport, following the signs.
• Minibuses run from Abdali station according to occupancy.

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Mount Nebo and Christ's baptism site Al-Makhtas (Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan)

From Madaba it is a stone's throw to places of religious pilgrimage - Mount Nebo (Nebo), where, according to legend, Moses is buried, and the supposed site of the baptism of Jesus Christ on the Jordan River.

The museum complex with Byzantine mosaics on Mount Nebo has been under restoration for a long time, but the renovation is now complete. In good weather, the mountain offers views of the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, Jericho and Jerusalem.

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If you continue to the northwest, to the border of Israel, you will reach the Jordan River to the place of Christ's baptism. The border between the two countries runs exactly along the river. There is still a dispute about which side Jesus entered the water from. In Israel, this territory is called Kathir al-Yahud, in Jordan - Al-Makhtas. The width of the river between them is no more than ten meters. Pilgrims come from both sides.

You can only stay here until 15:00 and with a guide. If you come on your own, you need to wait until the group gathers. Entry through the checkpoint requires documents, then you need to walk a few kilometers to the river.

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Jerash

In ancient times, Jerash (Gerasa) was a developed and busy trading city, part of the so-called ancient Decapolis. People come here to get acquainted with Greco-Roman architecture - Jerash is one of the largest and best-preserved ancient cities in the world.

What to see in Jerash:

• Arch of Hadrian
• Hippodrome
• Forum (Oval Square)
• Cardo - a street with columns that stretches throughout the city
• Agora - city market with a central fountain
• Nymphaeum - fountain of nymphs
• Ruins of the Temple of Artemis
• Southern and Northern amphitheaters
• Archaeological Museum of Jerash

Cost: 8 JOD (free with Jordan Pass)

How to get there?

You can get to Jerash along the modern highway north of Amman. The drive takes about half an hour.

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Castles in the desert. Qasr Kharana and Quseir Amra

In fact, these are not exactly castles and no one really knows what these structures were in the middle of the desert. They began to be called castles because of their massive stone walls and impressive appearance. It is assumed that caravans could rest here, there were centers of trade or meeting places for city authorities and Bedouins. One way or another, they give an idea of ​​early Islamic architecture and art.

Several of these surviving complexes, concentrated east and south of Amman, can be visited in a day or two.

Qasr Kharana is one of the most famous and photogenic “desert castles”. The interior is noticeably smaller than it appears - the walls are deceptively thick. If you go upstairs, you will find yourself in rooms with vaulted ceilings.

There is a souvenir kiosk next to Qasr Kharana. The friendly Bedouin host will prepare delicious tea or coffee and will be happy to tell you local history.

The second well-preserved desert castle of Quseir Amra is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Its walls and ceilings are covered with unique frescoes, and two rooms have mosaic floors.

Among the desert castles are also: Qasr Mushatta, Qasr Tuba, Qasr Hallyabat, Qasr Azrak and others.

Cost: 1 JOD for Qasr Harana+Quseir Amra+Qasr Azraq ticket (free with Jordan Pass).

Azrak, Shaumari, Aljnun and Dana reserves

Azraq Wetland Reserve- a unique oasis in the semi-desert in eastern Jordan. In Azraq you can watch birds and meet buffalos. The information center of the reserve has guidebooks, an aquarium, and a shop with handmade souvenirs.

Tourists are offered differentvisiting options : walking tours, bus tours and accommodation.

Shaumari Wildlife Reserve– a breeding center for rare and endangered species in the Middle East. Among them: Arabian oryxes, onagers (wild donkeys), desert gazelles, caracals. You can watch the animals from the observation tower or go on an Oryx Safari.

The reserve has a museum and a comfortable campsite with tents. The campsite is open all year round.

Ajloun Forest Reserve- a small nature reserve in the Ajlun Highlands. It was created to protect oak, carob, pistachio and strawberry. The forests of Aljnun are home to wild roe deer, which were on the verge of extinction, wild boars, martens, wolves and other animals.

There are two tourist routes through the reserve. You can stay right on site in small chalets.

Dana (Dana Biosphere Reserve)- a reserve covering four different biogeographic zones of the country (Mediterranean, Iranian-Turanian, Sahara-Arabian and Sudanese). The area is unique; many rare plants and animals are found here (for example, sand cat, Asian wolf, Nubian ibex).

Nature reserves in Jordan are managed by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature ( RSCN ). You can book excursions on the website Wild Jordan.

Aqaba and diving in the Red Sea

Aqaba is a resort city on the Red Sea. People come here to go diving or snorkeling, or just swim. From Aqaba it is easy to make forays into Petra, Wadi Rum, Karak, the Dead Sea Valley, and even go to neighboring Egypt and Israel.

Temperatures in winter rarely drop below 20°C. Summer is hot, sometimes 35°C and above, but the proximity of the sea and sea breezes make the heat bearable. During the day they take a siesta: from two o’clock in the afternoon until six or seven in the evening, everything is closed, and then it works until night and beyond.

You can relax on the beach both in Aqaba itself and in the quieter resort village of Tala Bay, a 15-minute drive from the city. The beaches are better in Tala Bay, but the prices are slightly higher than in Aqaba. Even if you stay in Aqaba itself, you can go to the beach in Tala Bay.

Both Aqaba and Tala Bay offer diving and boat excursions. In general, the Red Sea is a paradise for divers. Coral reefs, swimming next to sea turtles and colorful fish, starfish on the bottom, interesting wrecks (Cedar Pride cargo ship, Taiyong crane barge, Al Shorouk ship), night diving - all this is available in Aqaba.

Diving can be done all year round. Diving centers are of a high standard, with professional instructors and good equipment.

In addition to diving, there are trips on a glass-bottom boat and a submarine.

What else to see in Aqaba:

• Aqaba Archaeological Museum
• Mamluk Fort, or Aqaba Fortress
• Aqaba Bird Observatory
• Aquarium (Aqaba Aquarium)

A matter of taste: what to try in Jordan

In Jordan, many dishes are prepared from rice, meat and vegetables in different variations. They add herbs, nuts, and spices. They love lemons, olives and olive oil. They make a lot of vegetable pastes.

So, what are we tasting:

• Mansaf is the main dish of the Jordanian table. Mansaf is made from rice and lamb cooked in jamid, a fermented milk product made from sheep or goat milk. Jamid gives a very specific pungent taste and smell. But if you like blue cheese, such as Gorgonzola and Dorblu, or something similar, be sure to try mansaf. The finished dish is placed on thin pita bread and sprinkled with peanuts fried in butter and fresh herbs. Traditionally, Jordanians serve mansaf on a large communal tray, “garnish” it with a boiled lamb's head and eat it with their hands.
• Jordanian pilaf makloba (makluba) made from rice, stewed meat or poultry and vegetables. The maklob must have fried eggplants and potatoes.
• Msakhan - fried chicken with onion gravy and flatbread.
• Shish kebab - kebab with spices and vegetables, fried over an open fire.
• Hummus and falafel. They are prepared throughout the Middle East and beyond, but the Jordanians definitely know a lot about this matter.
• Mtabbal is a paste made from eggplants baked over a fire.
• Gataef is something between a pie and a large pancake with filling. Pancake pie, here. The filling includes cottage cheese, dates, raisins, dried apricots, and nuts.
• The East without oriental sweets is nonsense. In Jordan they are simply divine. Find and try: knafeh with cheese, baklava with pistachios and more (nothing in common with the baklava on the shelves of our stores), cookies with mamul dates (the name of the cookie, not the dates), sesame halva with pistachios, guava dessert “javafa”.
• You can wash it all down with excellent tea with mint, maramia (sage) or mash (something like thyme). Tea is served in transparent glasses.
• Coffee with cardamom is popular. It is often mixed in a 1:1 ratio, brewed in a thermos with a spout and drunk from small cups all day long.
• Jordan has plenty of fresh vegetables and fruits all year round. In addition to the usual oranges and bananas, there are figs, peaches, papaya, cherimoya, mangoes, chestnuts and even prickly pear cactus fruit. By the way, mangoes make excellent juice.

About alcohol and smoking

Alcohol is legal. But still, do not forget that Jordan is a Muslim country.

Wine, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beer, including locally produced ones, are available in many cafes and restaurants. Alcohol is sold in special stores, but it can be difficult to find them outside of tourist cities.

During Ramadan, the main Muslim fast, it is unlikely that you will be able to buy alcohol. And you shouldn’t neglect local regulations.

But hookah smoking is almost a national “sport”. There are plenty of hookah bars throughout the country. Cigarette smoking is also widespread and you can smoke in most restaurants, cafes, hotels, houses, shops and even in taxis.

Shopping: what to bring from your trip

Markets (souks) in Amman will give a complete picture of the oriental bazaar. It is noisy here, there are a lot of people, sellers shout in different voices, the energy is seething. You can buy anything: from food and spices to carpets, antiques and jewelry. Location).

farmers marketFarmers Market Amman . The name speaks for itself. All products come from local farms and are grown organically and without chemicals. There is also handmade soap, pottery, olive oil, and hand-made products. Open on Saturdays from 10:00 to 16:00. ( Location).

Flohmarkt- Amman's answer to European flea markets. It is essentially a random sale that happens from time to time. People go out to sell unnecessary things, among which you can find really interesting and valuable ones. The location is constantly changing. Each next event is announced in