City of Porto, Portugal: attractions, description and interesting facts. Portugal is a country of great sailors and the western outskirts of Europe. Porto, as the Portuguese themselves call this city.
...or one day in the city that gave its name to the country
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Despite the fact that I left the story about the northern capital of Portugal, the city of Porto, to the end, a visit to this beautiful city was the very middle of our " Great Portuguese Motor Rally
"And I left it for a snack because Porto is so cool that it needs to be taken into a separate “hall of fame” and placed on a special shelf. If you have enough time and you can afford two weeks to get to know Portugal, you You are free to choose the location for this city, but if you only have one day to grab yourself a piece of Portugal, then you should choose Porto. You can skip the Albufeira cliffs, skip Lisbon, and skip the 2000-meter climb to Torre Sierra. Estrela, you may not even see Sintra, Evora and Coimbra, but you cannot ignore Porto! Porto is one of the most interesting and remarkable cities in Portugal, as well as the second city in the country in terms of population. Moreover, it was Porto that gave its name not only to the entire country. but also the famous fortified wine Port.
Porto is one of the oldest cities in Europe, the former capital of the country and the current capital of port wine. It is also a vibrant industrial center, the historical part of which, continuously inhabited since at least the 4th century, received World Heritage Site status from UNESCO in 1996. Unlike other major cities in the country, the center of Porto is not so much baroque as it is granite and monumental. The history of Porto dates back to around 300 BC. e. with Proto-Celtic and Celtic people being the first known inhabitants. Ruins from this period have been discovered in several areas. In the area of modern Porto there was also a settlement of the Gallecs. The Roman general Decimus Junius Brutus Callaicus conquered the city around 136 BC.
The Romans named the city Portus Cale, that is, a beautiful port. This name later transformed into Portucale, which later gave the name to the entire country - Portugal.
We drove to Porto from the Busacu Palace, about the night in which I. Due to thick fog, we did not waste time at the top of Cruz Alto and were in Porto early in the morning. In the end, it took us exactly a day to get to the city, which was both enough and a little too short. Considering we’ve been on Portuguese soil for almost a week, we’ve already absorbed enough of the local flavor, and therefore we didn’t waste time sitting dumbly on the embankment, but immediately began to get to know the city closely.
When we flew into the suburbs of Porto at a speed of 165 km/h, the clouds were just rising and there was a noticeable breeze of freshness from the ocean. Having crossed the Douro River, in the valley of which grapes for the famous port wine are grown, we turned towards the center and immediately came across cars standing along the cliff. Free parking 10 minutes from the center. I should stop and look at the bridges.
And we left the car five minutes from Ponte Luis. Looking ahead, I will say that we never overtook it, because in the center where we lived it was very sad with parking, and the subway for 25 euros seemed a little expensive. So the car spent the night on the embankment between the bridges.
And here it is the real Porto with its own flavor, which is not found in any other city in Portugal.
The inhabitants of Porto were and continue to be called “tripeiros” - “offal eaters”. Its soup is still a signature delicacy of the city. At the same time, the townspeople are culturally set apart from the rest of Portugal, and here you can often hear the phrase: “Porto is a nation.”
On the opposite side of the river, there is a monastery and, as it were, another city - Vila Nova di Gaia, although it is perceived as a district, part of Porto.
It is from Vila Nova di Gaia that you need to start getting acquainted with Porto. It's better to start from the embankment. Then go up to the observation deck and enjoy the views of the city, which is more than 2300 years old. We cross to the other side via the Luis 1st Bridge.
Somewhere there, almost half a kilometer away, we threw our “penny” and heavy things.
As you move along the bridge, the city begins to open up from new angles. Porto is great!
For seven centuries, until 1956, wine was transported to Vila ova de Gaia on picturesque flat-bottomed sailing ships called barcos rabelos. Now this is done by rail. But the Barkosh Rabelos boats are still a symbol of the city.
Lots and lots of barcos rabelos on the Porto promenade. I deliberately do not say Villa Nova de Gaia, because this is a formality, in fact it is a single city, united with its suburbs into a large municipality with a population exceeding the number of inhabitants of modern Latvia. 2,400,000 inhabitants! Therefore, I insist that Villa Nova de Gaia is an area of Porto, the embankment opposite the center.
I’ll tell you about port wine itself, its production and other things in the next publication. Today we’re going for a walk.
Along the embankment there are countless cellars where port wine of all famous and most unknown brands is stored. You can go to the cellars like a museum and look at the stacks of barrels.
Barrels on Barkosh Rabelosh props for the surroundings. Every self-respecting port wine house must have a couple of boats with barrels at the pier. Otherwise it’s somehow not solid. There are also utilitarian walking trails there.
I walked to the very end of the embankment to the distant cellars. In appearance, these are typical warehouse hangars from prehistoric times.
The most beautiful thing across the river is the center of Porto, the Ribeira district, where tripeiros live. The name of the area came from them. Tripeiros are tripe eaters. It just so happened that hard-working fishermen were always poor, and after selling the fish, they only got fish entrails. Now this is no longer a fishing area, and you won’t see boats with nets here, but it’s incredibly colorful.
The photo below shows an old tram, which is 80 years old and has the first number. No others. It goes all the way to the ocean, the trip costs 4 euros. The interior is wooden, with two cabins.
Inesa went to the observation deck by cable car, I went on foot, it was important for me to photograph what fascinated me about the appearance of the old city.
It took me a good half an hour to get up to the monastery’s platform. The steep streets are skillfully hidden from strangers; without the navigator on my phone, I would not have found the way up.
But there is still a long way to go. While we are admiring the views of Porto.
The city has a special aura. Porto is charming, cozy and compact. You won't need public transport. Ditch the car behind the bridges and walk forward.
Pay attention to the Ponte Luis bridge, it is two-tiered. Below are cars and people, above are trains previously and the metro now. Although the metro looks more like an overweight tram, this does not change the essence. And under the bridge there are dozens of barkosh rabeloshes.
Look at the colorful houses with two windows in the first row on the embankment. Isn't this lovely?
We will reach the rough side of the road in the late afternoon.
The tiered buildings are incredibly picturesque and photogenic. Especially from a distance. I put on Zuiko 40-150 so as not to twist the pancake to the maximum.
In the photo below we see several attractions of Porto. This is the bell tower of the Clérigos Church, the highest in Portugal, which served as a beacon and landmark for sailors in the last century, this is the Cathedral, and the episcopal palace-residence. (white building)
Look at the top row of windows of the bishop's palace. We will return to the middle window later.
Whether long or short, I return to the bridge to begin my ascent to the observation deck. This bridge is not easy. Bridge of Don Luis (Ponte de Dom Luis).
The bridge over the Douro River is one of the symbols of Porto. The lower tier of the bridge is for cars, on the upper tier there is a metro in the middle part, and pedestrians along the edges. The metro runs quite infrequently, so pedestrians can easily cross from one side of the bridge to the other - they have different views. That's what I did, by the way. The 385 m long bridge connects Porto and its southern suburb, Vila Nova di Gaia. The height of the bridge is 44 m. By design, it is a metal arch bridge, the longest bridge of its type in the world.
It was built from 1881 to 1886 according to the design of Théophile Seyrig, Gustave Eiffel's partner and student. They say Eiffel himself made some amendments to the finished project, which won the construction competition due to its low cost and began to bear the name of King Louis the First.
Poor area of Porto.
Well, where is my Neska? The funicular is stupid. 300 meters of pleasure, although saving energy.
From the top, Porto is even more beautiful.
A couple of kilometers away, around the bend of the river, in its delta you can meet dolphins. After all, the ocean already begins there and they swim into fresh water to hunt fish.
In principle, here is all the Porto that interests us. It is not that huge and two days for the city is enough.
This is the same metro, a double carriage going along the Don Luis Bridge, although it is also called the Eiffel Bridge.
It is very difficult to force a non-photographer to photograph you the way you want.
Roofs of cellars.
The bridge is all steel and echoing.
We walk there, we walk back. There along the lower tier, back along the top. You must cross the bridge. After all, at the very end and beginning there is an observation deck with a beautiful view of the city.
Go ahead.
From the Douro embankment (Ribeira station, almost under the Don Luis Bridge) you can climb the cliff in a couple of minutes and €2.50. The upper Batalha station is 300 m from the São Bento train and metro station, at the same altitude. The funicular serves as a tourist attraction, but if you don't mind the money, this is a pretty good way to save energy and time if you need to climb from the river to the level of the upper tier of the bridge. In my opinion, it’s boring, and really going nowhere.
Hiking routes are much more picturesque. Nobody used the funicular in our time, and we didn’t see it at all.
Not the richest Portuguese live under the bridge.
The yellow house, one window wide, is for rent or sale.
In the upper left corner of the picture you can see the platform from which we are walking.
Silent question.
Below you can already see the famous Sao Bento train station.
But we examine everything in order. And first along the way we have a Romanesque cathedral and views from its entrance.
Our next destination was the Clérigos bell tower. Here in the cathedral you can buy a single ticket for three locations. Cathedral and Museum, Clérigos Tower, and Episcopal Palace with a guided tour. There is no free entrance to it, you need to save time and go with a guide.
First the cathedral. The cathedral was rebuilt from an old fortress in the XII-XVIII centuries,
Entrance to the cathedral itself is free.
The Romanesque Cathedral, one of the oldest and one of the most prominent buildings in Porto, was built from the early 12th to the 13th centuries. The facade of the cathedral consists of two square towers with unusual domes (made in 1772), between which there is a Romanesque rose window. The entrance portal was built in the same 1772 in the Baroque style. The interior retains the nave and Romanesque columns, but almost all of the interior decoration is Baroque. To the south of the cathedral is an originally Gothic cloister.
The history of Porto dates back to the Roman Portocale, which existed in the 5th century, but there were settlements on this site much earlier. At the beginning of the 8th century it was captured and destroyed by the Moors, and at the end of the 10th century these lands were liberated by Prince Henry of Burgundy. By his order, construction of a cathedral began here in 982. In 1147, the bishop of Porto, Dom Hugo, organized the English, German and flagship crusaders on a sea campaign against Lisbon. They helped Afonso Henriques liberate the future capital of Portugal from the Moors. During the era of geographical discoveries, Portugal became the most important maritime and trading power in Europe, and Porto became its main port and shipbuilding center.
From its very foundation, Porto has been a freedom-loving, independent city. There were often riots and uprisings here, and even the Inquisition did not have much power in Porto. In 1757, residents rebelled against the wine monopoly imposed by the Marquis of Pombal (to rebuild Lisbon after the earthquake). In 1832, Porto was the center of the House of Miguel's struggle for power, and in 1878 the first republican elections were held here.
We liked the cathedral. Something between a fortress, a monastery and a palace. It's worth its three euros.
I was a little stuck in this picture. What's on the plate? I see a dog here. Explain how and what?
And of course I will azulez whole walls.
And in chests of drawers like these with many drawers, the saints put bills.
This is what the observation deck looks like at the entrance to the cathedral, and on the right is the entrance to the bishop’s palace, but our excursion is in a couple of hours, so we’re going to have lunch at the Clérigos bell tower, and I’ll tell you about the palace in general in the next publication.
The seagulls here are unusually impudent.
For food, we chose a small cafe with a chef who didn’t speak English but fed us deliciously and not expensively.
Cathedral from below.
And Porto on top. Right below me is the same cafe.
And then we wandered to the Clérigos Church through the streets of Ribeira.
Personally, I just love places like this. A real non-tourist Porto with locals, its own rhythm and lack of glamour.
Here the narrow streets have their own life.
This is where we go from the cathedral. You can simply wander along landmarks without a navigator.
While we were meandering, we came across an “observation deck” mentioned somewhere on the Internet. By chance, but I immediately remembered her. A place for informals, apparently.
It's not very clean here, but during the day it's tolerable.
From here you can clearly see the Villa Nova de Gaia area.
But the best view, for my taste, is towards the Episcopal Palace and the Don Luis-Eiffel Bridge.
Tyts tut, alcohol, vodka, cigarettes?
Yes, we were here, we drank Sandeman, ate tripe, and generally fell in love with Porto.
Some kind of lilac street....
We almost reached Clérigos.
Here begins a more modern area, wide streets, cars, trams, banks and offices.
But the unique atmosphere of Porto still remains here.
And here she is Torre dos Clérigos.
The church itself is decorated inside with multi-colored marble, no external paints. This is the Catholic Church of Clerigos with a bell tower (Torre dos Clerigos), which is the tallest in Portugal (76 meters) and the symbol of Porto. For a long time it was a reference point for sailors. We're heading upstairs.
To get to the tower and bell tower you need to walk along a very narrow staircase. Two people cannot separate. With a backpack it’s generally an ambush. We created a couple of traffic jams. But at the turns a little wider and pressing against the wall, those going down were allowed to pass.
The tower has two levels. That is, there are higher and lower. Several tourists were very surprised when we emerged from the wall, descending from the top and immediately rushing up.
Everything from Porto is in full view. In principle, there are enough views from here and apart from the site on the other side of the river, you don’t need to look for anything else.
Orange tiles, colored houses, colorful and bright.
Some houses are very tiny and squeezed into some cracks.
Here is almost all of Ribeira in one frame.
This is the eastern part of the city.
This is the northern...
Suddenly you couldn’t believe that we climbed 70 meters along the old stone steps. So here's your proof. In the next part, evening Porto, the embankment, and port wine, of course.
Porto is a city of port wine and football, a city of high arched bridges and noisy coastal bars, a city of unsightly and dirty streets, the city that gave its name to Portugal. So much has been written about Porto that trying to tell something new is a thankless task. But I’ll still try to tell and show.
The city is located north of on the right bank of the Douro River, which stretches almost 900 kilometers across the entire Iberian Peninsula.
The history of the city goes back to the Romans; it was from those times that Porto began to develop, first as a port and then as an industrial city. Moreover, over the past two millennia it has not lost any of its port charm, but more on that below...
Porto is the second largest city in Portugal and is often called the northern capital.
One of the most recognizable symbols of the city is the Ponte de Don Luis, built at the end of the 19th century by Théophile Seyrig, a student of that same Gustave Eiffel. The bridge connects the two banks of the Douro River. The bridge is two-level: on the upper level, at a height of 45 meters, there is a metro line, while the lower tier, located directly above the water, is intended for cars.
But the most famous symbol of Porto is, of course, the famous fortified wine - port.
Only wine produced on the banks of the Douro River can be called port. This provision is enshrined in the legislative acts of Portugal and the European Union. So the Soviet “Three Axes” and other similar surrogate liquids, of course, not only have nothing to do with the noble sweet drink, but also borrowed its name completely illegally.
By the way, contrary to the opinion of the majority, port wine is not produced in Porto - the world-famous cellars in which oak barrels of wine are aged are located on the opposite bank from Porto - in the city of Vila Nova de Gaia.
Previously, in order not to disturb the transport of wine along the rough Portuguese roads, it was transported from the vineyards to the cellars in barrels on flat-bottomed cargo boats with a square sail. In memory of those times, today you can see many moored boats, just opposite the cellars. Some of the boats have been converted into restaurants, at the tables of which you can endlessly sit and enjoy the fresh wind from the Atlantic accompanied by the pleasant sweet notes of fortified wine sparkling in a glass.
A few words about transport. In Porto, as well as in, there are old, rattling trams.
There is also more modern transport here. For example, the city metro is more like a tram.
A funicular line is laid along the old fortress wall from the Douro bank to the top.
The fortress wall also appeared here not by chance - at the very beginning of the reconquista, Porto occupied a border position. The border between Muslim lands and the newly autonomous Portuguese county ran along the Douro River.
The funicular runs quite rarely - the operator waits until the cabin is filled to capacity with people, like a jar of sprats.
And, probably, the most interesting form of urban transport is the cable car, which connects the area next to the Ponte de Don Luis bridge and the embankment of the Douro River next to the wine cellars.
Although, of course, this is no longer Porto, but Vila Nova de Gaia, but it is still very interesting.
And it’s interesting because from this cable car, in my opinion, the best view of the historical part of Porto opens.
The bishop's palace rises monumentally above the densely clustered residential buildings.
Next to it on the hillside is the ancient district of Bairro da Se - it is the poorest and at the same time the most picturesque quarter of Porto.
The embankment is lined with many small open-air restaurants that seem to be filled with drunken fun around the clock.
In the meantime, it's time to look at Porto from above. The best place for this is the observation tower of the Clérigos Church.
Its bell tower is the tallest in Portugal. For a long time it was a landmark for ships arriving from the Atlantic.
A narrow staircase of 225 steps leads upstairs.
Let's take a breath at one of the sites... We have only reached the roof level so far.
Well, here we are at the top.
We look at Porto.
We see red roofs descending in ledges to the banks of the Douro. We see Vila Nova de Gaia located on the far shore. We see wine cellars occupying almost the entire opposite bank of the river.
We see neat, brand new roofs.
We see that there are picturesque ruins right in the center of Porto.
We see that the slopes of the hills on which Porto is located are quite steep, and sometimes you need to sweat a lot to climb the many steps.
We see modern blocks rising in the distance.
We see that huge parks and squares covered with green tree crowns stretch west all the way to the Atlantic.
All. We've seen enough of Porto from above. We continue to walk the streets.
Please note that entire facades of houses can be decorated here with blue tiles.
Let's feel the atmosphere of the Bairro da Se quarter, over which the bell tower of the Clérigos Church, which we visited a little earlier, rises like a mighty phallus.
The houses here are tall and the streets are narrow and dirty. It’s stuffy between the houses, the air seems to have frozen, having absorbed many aromas, ranging from the smells of cheap food coming from nowhere to the outright stench, so familiar from our native St. Petersburg pissed elevators. The feeling that you suddenly find yourself in a poor Asian country from a civilized European country.
Laundry is hung on the streets. From time to time you come across very dubious personalities whom you really wouldn’t want to meet on a dark street under the cover of darkness.
In general, it’s a real port city. The only things missing for a more ambiance are drunken sea wolves and cheap port prostitutes. Although, maybe I just didn’t look well?
I look more closely and begin to understand that the city is amazing!
“What is the most important thing when traveling?See, understand, enjoy, love!
Colors, shapes, aromas, tastes add up
into vivid pictures in memory, so that later we
could look at them all my life"
About the country, its history and people
Portugal is one of the oldest countries in Europe with a rich history. Portugal is a charming country that can be called a quiet European province, where pristine nature serenely coexists with a developed tourist infrastructure, and respect for national customs coexists peacefully with pan-European traditions.
The country of great navigators, Portugal is located in the western part of the Iberian Peninsula. In the south and west it is washed by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, and on land it borders with Spain. Portugal includes the Azores Islands, located in the Atlantic Ocean approximately 1,450 km west of Lisbon, and the island of Madeira, 970 km southwest of Lisbon, which are autonomous regions of Portugal. The area of the country including the islands is 92.39 thousand square meters. km.
The name of the country comes from the name of the Roman settlement Portus Cale at the mouth of the Douro River. In 1139, Portugal became a kingdom independent from Spain. At that time it occupied only the northern third of its modern territory. In 1249, the last Muslim ruler in the south of the country was expelled, and since then its borders have changed little. The era of conquest began in the 15th century, when Portuguese maritime explorers such as Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama, Ferdinand Magellan traveled around the world, making great geographical discoveries. By the 16th century, the territories they discovered formed a huge empire that stretched from the coast of Brazil to Africa and Asia. It was during this era that the Portuguese economy reached its greatest prosperity.
In 1910, the monarchy was overthrown in Portugal, and in 1974, a democratically minded military junta put an end to the dictatorial regime that had existed since 1926. Portugal is one of the few European countries that were not occupied by Nazi troops during the Second World War.
The constitution adopted in 1976 established Portugal as a Parliamentary Republic with direct elections and universal adult suffrage.
By transferring the last of its overseas territories, Macao, which it had held since 1680, to Chinese rule in 1999, Portugal brought an end to a long and sometimes turbulent colonial era in its history.
Events in Portuguese history had a huge impact on the culture of the country and introduced features of Moorish and Oriental styles into architecture and art. Traditional folk dances and chants, especially the lyrical fado, remain significant to this day, which can be seen and heard right on the streets. According to one version, the name fado goes back to the Latin word fatum, which means fate. The melodies of the songs harmoniously combine Moorish, African and Brazilian tunes; all the songs run through the theme of loneliness, melancholy and premonition of a sad fate, but this does not mean that music of this type is only suitable for melancholic people. The ability to glorify sadness and turn it into an object of admiration is one of the national traits of the Portuguese, and it is not without reason that for several centuries almost every family in this country was waiting for sons and husbands to set off to conquer the sea, and the journey could end in the most unpredictable way.
The country's population is mononational, 99% of the 10.8 million population are Portuguese. Many peoples have long settled on the Iberian Peninsula. The most ancient inhabitants - the Iberians - were short and dark-skinned. Over the centuries, the appearance of the Portuguese was formed under the influence of the Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, as well as Germanic tribes (Visigoths and Alamanni).
Portugal is a monolingual country. The official language is Portuguese. It is spoken by more than 200 million people worldwide on three continents: Eurasia, Africa and South America. This language is similar to Spanish, since both belong to the Iberian-Romance subgroup of the Romance group of languages, however, despite the similar grammatical structure, there are significant differences in pronunciation between them. The formation of the language was greatly influenced by the Germanic tribes and Arabs (Moors), from whom the Portuguese language borrowed many words, as well as contacts of travelers, discoverers and merchants with Asian peoples.
National characteristics: there is no need to question the historical greatness of the country - the Portuguese are proud of their past, especially against the backdrop of the modest place that the country occupies today. The Portuguese are very sensitive to comparisons with the Spaniards, despite the similarity of languages, characters and national cultures. Bullfighting is also popular here, but, unlike Spanish bullfighting, where the bull is killed, in Portuguese the animal is subdued by a team of unarmed fighters (forcados).
In this country, the percentage of the rural population is one of the highest in Western Europe, many foreigners work in its factories, construction sites and fields, including from Ukraine. Average annual per capita income: USD 22,500 (World Bank data, 2011). Average life expectancy is approaching 80 years. As in other countries, in Portugal women live longer, almost 82 years, but men do not yet reach 76. The retirement age is 65 years, and the actual retirement age is 61-62 years.
Portugal is a country of great sea voyages, grandiose geographical discoveries and tart port wine. The mild climate, fresh forest and meadow aromas, light ocean breezes and endless expanses of the Atlantic, unique architecture in the Manueline style and strong coffee... All this deserves to get to know this interesting country better.
Zintroduction to Porto
They say about the cities of Portugal: they pray in Braga, they work in Porto, they party in Lisbon. My acquaintance with Portugal began in Porto. Porto, the second most populous city in Portugal with a population of 240 thousand inhabitants, gave its name not only to port wine, but to the entire country. The historical center of Porto is located on the right bank of the Douro River, a few kilometers from where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean. The city center has been declared a World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.
Porto is well known for its entrepreneurial spirit, distinctive culture and local cuisine. The city is often called the northern capital of Portugal. The largest university in Portugal is located in Porto (about 29 thousand students).
One of Porto's most striking landmarks is the Clérigos Tower, the tallest in Portugal at 76 meters or 225 steps. The Baroque church was built for the brotherhood of clerics ("Clérigos") by the architect Nicola Nasoni according to a Roman design. Its construction began in 1732 and was completed in 1750 with the construction of a monumental staircase. On July 28, 1748, despite the fact that the building was not yet completely finished, the church was opened for worship. Torre dos Clérigos has become a symbol of the city of Porto. It has been a National Monument since 1910.
The city is famous for the production of various brands of port wine. We visit one of the ancient “port wine houses” - Galem, and get acquainted with the history and features of the production of this popular drink. And, of course, we taste some varieties, and those who wish can purchase wines that suit their taste. Having warmed up our appetite with the wines we tasted, we begin our acquaintance with Portuguese cuisine in one of the restaurants, where we happily consume the national fish dish called “bacalau”.
After refreshing ourselves with bacalau and tasting port wines, we enjoyed a walk along the embankment of the Douro River, where such cute boats float.
There are four bridges across the Douro River, connecting the historical part of the city with Vila Nova di Gaia, a small neighboring town where the repository of world-famous port wine is located. One of the bridges (Louis the First) was built according to the design of Gustav Eiffel: a two-tier structure of impressive size seems openwork and light.
The Se Cathedral was built at the highest point of the old city. Built in the 12th century on a granite rock, it originally served as a fortress. Later it was rebuilt, but has retained its harsh appearance to this day. The inside of the cathedral is not very interesting. Decor lovers will be impressed by the luxurious silver altar, the construction of which took 800 kg of silver, and the patio, lined with the famous Portuguese azulejo tiles.
From Cathedral Square there is a beautiful view of the city.
From the cathedral to the river, the descent goes through the poorest area of Porto. The area of fashionable villas is located by the ocean. You can get here on the existing museum tram, which has not changed since 1930. It's called the Electric Machine Museum. However, each of Porto's trams can serve as an exhibit: the inside of the vehicle is upholstered in wood, and the driver drives it while standing, for the simple reason that there is no seat for it. When the tram reaches the final destination of the route, the driver moves from the head to the tail, where there is also a cabin, and drives his car in the “reverse course”: the rails in Porto end in a dead end. The most scenic route runs along the ocean shore. From the windows of noisy and old trams you can see fashionable villas, chosen by wealthy people from all over Europe.
Porto, like other Portuguese cities, is distinguished not only by its unique architecture, but also by the fact that many houses are faced with multi-colored tiles.
From the early Middle Ages until the 17th century, there was a law that prohibited the aristocracy not only from building, but also from staying in the city for more than three days. Even the king did not have his residence in Porto. He stayed in the Episcopal Palace, built by Nicolo Nazzoni. It is a masterpiece of 18th century Portuguese baroque architecture. The port city is located entirely on the hills, it has many funny houses and streets.
It was also interesting to visit the store and a kind of book museum, Livraria Lell - the oldest in Portugal and one of the most incredibly beautiful bookstores in the whole world. An extraordinary, simply fabulous interior, which is located on two floors of the store. Spectacular and massive decor of the walls and ceiling, everything is made of noble wood using original and unusual carvings in combination with the amazingly curved lines of the red staircase that leads to the second floor. The magnificent ceiling made of expensive stained glass looks no less impressive. The bookstore is located a five-minute walk from the city center.
This pretty fountain also caught our attention.
It is impossible not to mention a visit to the São Bento train station. In addition to its direct purpose, the Sao Bento station is interesting for its painting walls, lined with azulejos tiles in white and blue tones. The largest of them is made of 20 thousand tiles and decorates the waiting room. This panel completely occupies one of its walls. The painting depicts episodes from the history of railways, as well as important moments in the history of Portugal.
When leaving Porto, behind the fortress walls, my first meeting with the Atlantic Ocean took place. I go knee-deep into the ocean, the water is quite cool, but you can still take a dip.
Two days in Lisbon
Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and the largest city in the country. It is home to 570 thousand people. It is located on the right bank of the Tagus River, which flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Its history goes back about 20 centuries. Lisbon was built on seven hills, like Rome and Moscow. Just like Moscow, Lisbon is patronized by St. George the Victorious. The city became the capital of the state in 1147 after liberation from Arab colonization. Lisbon owes this to the first king of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques. The main city of the country was founded by the Phoenicians as a stop at the intersection of sea routes and was named Alis Ubbo - blessed bay. The city was ruled by the Roman Empire, Moors, and Spaniards.
We begin our acquaintance with the center of Lisbon - one of the main attractions. In the 18th century, bullfights and public executions took place here. We explore the Edward VII Park and the monument to the Marquis de Pombal. This is a large green meadow with neatly trimmed bushes of regular geometric shape.
Lisbon is a modern European city located on 15 hills. Walking along it you have to constantly go up and down the hills. We climb one of the hills, where, with the help of a guide, we get acquainted with the Moorish fortress of San Jorge. Once upon a time, Portuguese kings lived here, but now all that remains of the castle is a shell with pine groves inside. But this is the highest point in Lisbon and the views from here are appropriate. From the fortress walls you can see a strange structure - openwork frames of arches pointing into the sky. To take in views of the Tagus River and Lisbon's ancient Alfama district, we walked along the esplanade and climbed the ramparts of the old fortress. The fortress of Sant Jorge (St. George) has been a fortification spanning the mouth of the Tagus River since ancient times. In 1147, King Alfonso Henriques converted the fortress into a royal residence. In 1511, King Manuel I built himself a palace outside the fortress, and here he placed an armory and a prison. During the earthquake of 1755, the fortress was very badly damaged and only in 1938, under Salazar, the ruins were restored, and only a few details remained, reminiscent of the originally Moorish Alcasava, later the royal residence, where Vasco da Gama celebrated the success of his trip to India with pomp. The fortress walls have been restored and you can now walk along them around the ancient quarter of Santa Cruz. In the fortress towers there are various exhibitions telling about the history of the fortress and the entire city. The observation decks offer magnificent views of Lisbon.
Picturesque streets with houses covered with painted tiles run away from the fortress in different directions. Benches are carefully placed in the middle of each climb. Most of the streets lead to Alfama - the oldest quarter of Lisbon, which, being built on rocky ground, survived the earthquake without much damage. This was once the center of a Roman city and later the center of a Moorish city. Alfama was also inhabited by Jews until their expulsion in the 16th century. There is nothing there that reminds you of a capital city: Alfama is more like a fishing village, where housewives clean fish right on the street and sew on antediluvian sewing machines, and clotheslines are tied to orange trees growing right on the steps. When going for a walk in Alfama, be prepared for the fact that you will most likely get lost - this intricacy of streets practically defies logic.
We go down from the castle on a retro tram running along route No. 28, which is reminiscent of transport from the beginning of the last century, and go on a tour of the city center. We pay tribute to the way our tram dashingly climbs hills and rushes along narrow winding streets with a frightening rattle. At one point during the trip, we easily reach the wall of the neighboring house with our hands.
We get off at the bus stop and an amazing view of the capital opens up in front of us. In Lisbon, such viewing terraces are called miradoros. We found ourselves on the best of them - Miradouro de Santa Luzia. We approach the fence and freeze in admiration. It’s not for nothing that Lisbon is called the “White City”: in front of us is a whole block of toy-like, sun-drenched snow-white houses with orange tiled roofs.
The city has many interesting buildings of unusual architecture.
We go down to Commerce Square, which is considered one of the most beautiful squares in Portugal. Before the earthquake, there was a royal palace built here in 1511 by Manuel I. In its center, on a high plinth, stands an equestrian statue of the reformer king José I, whose minister was the Marquis de Pombal. The majestic Arc de Triomphe, decorated with bas-reliefs and statues of famous people and connecting the square with Augusta Street, was completed in the 19th century. It was then that the square received its current name “Commerce Square” due to its proximity to the port, which is the main source of trade for the city. From here you have a magnificent view of the Tagus River, which you can reach down the stairs. On the southern side of the square, two square towers rise, and on three sides the square is framed by the buildings of ministries and banks.
The next point of our journey is the Belem region. Where the Tagus flows into the ocean, stands the Belem (that is, Bethlehem) watchtower, and a little closer to land rises the Jeronimos Monastery - a wonderful example of the main national style - Manueline, that is, Gothic mixed with Arabic script, sea knots and astrolabes. Two world-famous Portuguese are also buried here - Vasco da Gama (who set sail from the Belem Tower, going in search of an alternative route to India) and Luis Camões. From Camões, however, only one tomb remained; the poet himself died of the plague and was buried in some lost common grave.
Nearby is the coffee shop Casa dos Pastéis de Belém, which makes the best sweets in the city, and perhaps in the country.
Next to the monastery is the Tower of Bethlehem (Torre de Belem), built in the 16th century, a symbol of Lisbon. This is one of the best examples of the Manueline style; the tower is under UNESCO protection. It is decorated with lanterns, openwork Venetian balconies, stone carvings, a statue of the Madonna of the Mariners under a huge canopy and a sculpture of a rhinoceros. From the inside, the tower looks quite gloomy - there used to be a prison here. The quadrangular Tower of Belém is known as a monument to the Portuguese Age of Discovery. The tower, built in 1515-1520 and designed in the Manueline style, is a classic symbol of all of Portugal. This tower was erected in honor of the glorious military and maritime past of Portugal and rises on the spot where caravels once set off for distant lands.
Not far from the Tower on the embankment of the Tagus River towards the 25th of April Bridge is the Monument to the Mariners.
What is Lisbon remembered for, besides its historical attractions? First of all, its original architecture, which combines different styles. We fell in love with its squares and streets, paved with tiles of various configurations and colors. Its numerous souvenir shops with all kinds of colored tiles and products made from them did not leave anyone indifferent. The city also houses one of the largest oceanariums. It was a pleasure to travel along the famous tram route No. 28 through its steep streets and with no less pleasure - underground on the metro in modern cozy cars, admiring the unique interior of its stations.
It's time to say goodbye to hospitable Lisbon. We cross one of the longest bridges in Europe. 45 months after the start of work (six months ahead of schedule), on August 6, 1966, the opening ceremony took place in the presence of senior officials of the state. The structure was named "Salazar Bridge" in honor of the then dictator of Portugal. Soon after the Carnation Revolution, the bridge was renamed in honor of the day when this event took place - the April 25 Bridge.
Royal Sintra
In the morning we leave Lisbon and head to Sintra. 27 km from Lisbon, at the foot of the low coastal Sierra da Sintra mountains, is the small town of Sintra, which has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1995. The Portuguese themselves consider it the main attraction of the country, the pearl of Portugal. Back in the 8th century, the Moors appreciated the defensive importance of this place and built a fortress here. In 1147, Afonso I Henriques drove out the Arabs and for the next 600 years the city was the summer residence of the Portuguese kings.
Among the luxurious parks, centuries-old forests, bewitching landscapes, amazing palaces, castles, and monasteries rise on the hills.
In the city itself there is the National Palace of Sintra, and in the adjacent mountain-forested area on the hill there is the Palacio da Pena Palace and the dilapidated Castle of the Moors.
Near the station there is a beautiful city hall.
Before climbing the mountain to the Palacio da Pena, we enjoy a walk in the urban part of Sintra, built up with ancient mansions. The streets twist whimsically and often end in steep staircases, the steps leading to observation terraces with stunning views of the mountains and ocean. The cityscape is replete with green forests, exotic flowers and exquisite palaces.
In the city you can find many castles and palaces preserved in their original condition. These castles contain important historical and artistic collections, attracting Portuguese and foreign artists to the city. Not only the castles and palaces are interesting and original, but also the houses in this fabulous city.
The proximity of the ocean and mountain ranges provide humid, cool and slightly windy weather, which is excellent for relaxation even in very hot summers. That is why, already in the 15th century, the fabulous Palacio da Pena castle, which, together with its luxurious park, crowns one of the highest hills in Sintra, became the summer residence of the royal family of Portugal. Situated 450 m above the city of Sintra, it is one of the most significant examples of Portuguese architecture of the Romantic period. Rising on a rocky hill, it is in amazing harmony with the surrounding landscapes, combining lush vegetation and rocky cliffs.
The palace was founded in 1839, when the husband of the Portuguese Queen Mary II, Ferdinando II of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha (1816 - 1885), acquired the ruins of the Jerome Monastery and began to rebuild them to his romantic taste in order to create a summer residence here. To fulfill his fantasies, Ferdinando II turned for help to a German friend, Baron Eschwege, and appointed him as construction manager. And since in the 19th century, romantically minded architects no longer hesitated to mix different styles, the castle, like a three-dimensional puzzle, was assembled from German and Portuguese towers, Moorish arches and courtyards and Indian domes. And to top it off, they painted it all in bright colors, which delights not only adults, but also children. The whimsical and eccentric architecture of the palace combines Moorish, Gothic and Manueline motifs and the spirit of Central European castles. The palace stands on the top of a mountain and can be walked around its perimeter along a special path. Ferdinando II also built one of Portugal's most spectacular parks here, which was designed and planted over four years starting in 1846.
This most beautiful and romantic castle in Portugal is jokingly called “Snow White’s Palace” and is often compared to the Bavarian Neuschwanstein. You can get to Pena Palace by bus number 434 from the city center for 4.5 euros, but you can also get there on foot along the path.
We climb the rock where the fortress is located, built by the Moors between the 9th and 10th centuries. During the capture by Christians, the fortress surrendered without a fight. After the 15th century, the fortress lost its strategic importance. A wonderful landscape opens up from above: among the sea of greenery you can see the blue ocean and the white and red roofs of settlements and the capital.
We go down on foot to better experience all the beauty of the surrounding nature. The entire mountainside is strewn with huge boulders, as if after a landslide or rockfall. It is not clear how tall trees can grow on these stones.
I pass by the ruins of an old Moorish fortress - once upon a time life flowed vigorously here, and now only dilapidated stone walls remind of its former greatness.
Royal Sintra will forever be remembered as one of the most harmonious places in the world, combining beautiful landscapes created by Mother Nature and man-made palaces and castles created by talented architects. Lord George Gordon Byron, admiring the beauty of Sintra, called it a paradise, and then forever immortalized the town in the famous poem “The Great Paradise”.
Resort cities of Cascais and Estoril
After lunch we head to the westernmost point of Europe – Cape Roca. The path to it runs along the “Portuguese Riviera”, with a visit to the resort cities of Cascais and Estoril. Although Lisbon is located on the ocean coast, there are no beaches in the city and those who want to plunge into the depths of the sea or just relax on the coast go to these nearby resort towns. These cities are very nice and cozy.
15 km west of Lisbon lies the magnificent resort of Estoril. It has a unique microclimate: warm and sunny summers, moderate temperatures the rest of the year. It is from the resort of Estoril that the tourism industry of Portugal originates. A little over a century ago, the amazingly beautiful nature and mild Atlantic climate attracted the world elite and representatives of famous aristocratic families to Estoril. Magnificent sandy beaches, clear water and hotels inaccessible to mere mortals are traditionally in demand among people of considerable income. Fans of active recreation will enjoy an incredible variety of water sports activities, including 8 brand-new water parks, and excellent golf courses.
Her Majesty the Queen of England often vacations in Estoril, and the well-known Linda Evangelista has chosen the villa. We pass by the hotel where our first and only president of the USSR, Mikhail Gorbachev, vacationed.
Located just a few kilometers from Estoril and 20 kilometers from Lisbon, Cascais is a typical example of Portuguese architecture with bright tiled roofs and white walls trimmed with colorful ceramic tiles.
The name Cascais comes from the word cascale - “small stone”. The city has a rich historical and architectural ensemble: a history museum, a maritime museum, churches and chapels from the 15th century. There is a monument to Don Pedro in the Central Square.
There are other monuments in the small town. We liked this sculpted warrior.
I really liked this unusual cute bouquet.
A very attractive walk through the upper town with a beautifully maintained city park and the romantic Aristocrat Castle.
If you move further from the city along the rocky coast, you find yourself in Guinsha - a kingdom of wide dunes with frequent stormy winds. This corner of untouched nature is a real paradise for windsurfers. Here is the picturesque cliff of Boca de Infierno (“mouth of the underworld”): the sea has washed out a hole in the rock, and “hell’s stew” is now constantly boiling in these stone jaws.
CapeCabo deRock
The mountain road leads to a cliff, from which a dizzying panorama of the ocean and coastal cliffs opens. This is the westernmost point of Europe, the Cape of Cabo de Roca, which became a tourist attraction only in 1979. Before this, the Spanish Cape Finisterre (Latin for “end of the earth”) was considered the “edge of the world” on the Iberian Peninsula. The 140-meter-high rock, like the bow of a ship, protrudes into the ocean. Ignoring the protective barrier, I approach its edge. Standing at the very cliff, I listen to the solemn music of the ocean and am filled with its energy. Probably, the great Portuguese navigators, standing off the western shores of their native continent and peering into the vast expanses of the ocean, wondered: “What lies beyond these distances?” and to find the answer to this question they went on long sea voyages.
We overcame a difficult journey here by bus through many European countries from the westernmost point of our native Ukraine, the Transcarpathian city of Chop (48º05′ N, 22º08′ E). We take a photo for memory with our yellow-blue national flag next to the stone stele, on which the coordinates are carved (38º47′ N, 9º30′ W) and the inscription “ Onde a terra acaba e o mar comeca....” Shrouded in fog or illuminated by the bright sun, this is the one and only place where, as the poet Camões said: “ TOthe earth ends and the ocean begins» , - this is exactly how the words carved on the stone stele sound in translation.
And this is a memorial stone.
As evidence of my presence in such a charismatic place, I purchase a personal certificate from the Cape service center stating that I really was here. On the reverse side the following words are written in different languages, including Russian: “ I certify that I was at Cape Roca in Sintra, in Portugal, at the westernmost point of the European continent, at the very edge of the world, “where the earth ends and the ocean begins,” where the Spirit of Faith, Love and the thirst for adventure prompted the Portuguese caravels to set off to searching for a new world» .
The souvenir shop has a lot of different products about your stay in the westernmost point of Europe, especially a lot of souvenirs with drawings on a variety of ceramic products. I choose a refrigerator magnet in the form of a small ceramic tile with a picture of a cape as a souvenir of my visit to this unique place.
But the main thing that we take away from this place is the memories of what the westernmost point of our native European continent looks like. The turquoise surface of the Atlantic caresses the eye, and the formidable rocks evoke legends of tragic, unrequited love.
We have reached the most extreme point of our native continent and here I end my story about the journey through the Iberian Peninsula, my “Pyrenean Novel”.
Perhaps the most striking and memorable place in Portugal is the city of Porto. It was Porto that gave the name to the country of Portugal, because it was once the capital of the country. The drink port wine got its name from it. In general, Porto is the capital of the country's wine industry. When people talk about Portuguese wine, they mean Porto wine.
Walking through the labyrinth of narrow streets, between houses built in Art Nouveau and Baroque styles, you can enjoy the splendor and color of this ancient city. On a bright, sunny day, the city literally glows with joy and fun. And when fog creeps into Porto from the river, it seems to cover the city with a damp blanket, turning it into a gloomy and mysterious place.
Porto is the second largest city in the country and its former capital. It is the largest city and port in northern Portugal. It is located 270 kilometers from Lisbon, the modern capital of Portugal. Being the center of the municipality and district of Porto, this city spreads along the right bank of the Duero River and covers an area of 42 square kilometers. Porto is divided into five historical districts, each of which has its own unique beauty. The city has a population of 240,000 inhabitants, most of whom are Portuguese. The food industry is developed, especially winemaking and fish canning. As well as mechanical engineering, shipbuilding, clothing and chemical industries. In addition, Porto is an important cultural and educational center, with a large university.
The history of Porto begins in the 5th century, when the Romans came here and founded the city of Portus Calais, which later gave the name to the entire region - Portugal. In the 8th century, the city was captured and plundered by the Moors. The city became Moorish until the 10th century, when it was reconquered by Henry of Burgundy, who founded the County of Portugal, which later became a kingdom. To strengthen the power of Christians, by order of Henry of Burgundy, in 982 they began to build the Cathedral in Porto. In 1050, Porto became the region's main commercial port, on the route of important trade routes. And in 1147, Bishop Hugo declared a Crusade against Lisbon to liberate the future capital of the country from the power of the Moors.
To successfully fight its main enemy and rival, Castile, the Treaty of Windsor with England was signed in Porto in 1386, which completely freed the hands of English merchants. They forced the Porto authorities in 1703 to sign a trade treaty giving the British a complete monopoly on Portuguese port wine. During the Age of Discovery, when Portugal became the starting point for exploration of new lands, Porto became an important shipbuilding port.
Throughout its history, Porto has been distinguished by its freedom-loving and capricious character. The main power here has always been the trade guild. And until the 17th century, there was a ban on the construction of aristocratic palaces in the city in Porto. Moreover, the law even applied to the King of Portugal. The townspeople even managed to force the authorities to make concessions on some civil liberties, and the Inquisition in Porto had very little power. Periodically, major uprisings and riots broke out in the city. It was in Porto that the first liberal party was formed, the goal of which was to overthrow the monarchy. In 1822, the first Constitution was proclaimed in Porto. And soon, the first Republican uprising against the power of dictator Salazar broke out here.
The weather in the city of Porto is determined by the warm Atlantic Gulf Stream current. Thanks to him, Porto has warm and mild winters with a minimum temperature of +9 degrees Celsius. And moderate, not stuffy summers with temperatures of +20 degrees Celsius.
The city of Porto has its own large airport, so it can be reached from Moscow by plane. True, with a transfer in Brussels, Geneva or Madrid. You can book a plane ticket to Porto online by selecting the required class and flight price. Regular buses and taxis run from the airport to the city center. You can also rent a car, subject to the required driving experience (one year) and your age (21 years).
Before you travel to Porto, you will need to book a room at one of the many hotels in the city. Without this, you will not be able to get a visa to the country. You can book a room online by choosing the hotel that best suits your needs and financial capabilities. All Porto hotels vary in comfort levels, prices and their location relative to the city's attractions.
Porto has many attractions of different eras and styles, from the city's residential buildings to majestic temples. Some of the attractions are protected by UNESCO.
The Clérigos Tower is called the symbol of the city of Porto, since it is the most beautiful and prominent building in the city, and is also the tallest tower in Portugal. The height of the Clérigos tower exceeds 75 meters, and at one time it was an excellent landmark for merchant ships entering the port. Construction of the tower began in 1754, designed by the architect Nicolas Nasoni, and ended in 1763. Next to the tower stands the church of Igrejo dos Clérigos, in which Nicholas Nasoni is buried. This church is notable for its unusual oval shape and huge wall-length Azulejo panel.
One of the main attractions of the city is the Porto Cathedral. The huge gray cathedral building rises proudly on one of the hills of the city. The cathedral was built in the 12th century, and together with the city walls, it used to be a defensive structure for Porto. Subsequently, the cathedral was rebuilt several times and lost its original appearance, becoming the center of a mixture of styles. The high bell towers of the cathedral not only reveal its impressive age, but also give it the appearance of a medieval castle. The portal of the temple, rebuilt in the 18th century, is decorated with the ancient Romanesque symbol of the rose. And the youngest extension of the cathedral is the external gallery, built in the Baroque style by the architect Nicolo Nasoni. The interior of the Cathedral was last changed in the 18th century. The temple contains an altar made in the Baroque style, the creation of which took as much as 800 kg of silver. During the Napoleonic Wars, this altar was miraculously saved from the greedy French troops. And inside the cathedral there is a picturesque courtyard with azulejos, made in the Rococo style.
The most remarkable attraction of Porto is the large number of bridges over the Dora River. What is unique about these bridges is that built in the 19th century, these bridges were technological innovations of the time. Later, the technologies used to rebuild Porto's bridges were used in the construction of the Eiffel Tower in Paris and the Statue of Liberty in New York. The two-level iron bridge Don Luis, built in 1886, is especially unusual.
Another remarkable building in the city is the Exchange Palace. The building was built in 1842 by an organization of merchants, in a neoclassical style. The rich interior decoration of the building is striking. The richest room of the Exchange is the “Arab Hall”, decorated in the style of Arabian fairy tales. Another interesting room is the "Patio of Nations", where the coats of arms of all the countries that have ever traded with the city of Porto are displayed.
There are many interesting museums in Porto. For example, located in the Serralves estate, the Museum of Contemporary Art. Built in 1930 by the architect Alvaro Siza Vieira, in the Art Deco style, the building of this museum is in perfect harmony with the surrounding park. It houses a large collection of modern works of art. Another interesting place on the excursion is the Quinta da Macieirinha Museum. The museum building was once a palace where King Charles Albert spent the last months of his life. The museum is located on the second floor of the building. It displays Karl-Albert's household items and personal belongings, as well as antique French, Portuguese and German furniture. In addition, the museum displays a collection of ceramics and tapestries. And on the ground floor of the building there is the Port Wine Institute, where you can taste different types of port wine.
September 15th, 2012 , 02:11 am
A year ago I was planning this trip, but last year the choice fell on the Canaries and Portugal was postponed.
But this year, Portugal finally came true. After crawling through blogs and travel sites, three cities were chosen: Porto, Lisbon and Albufeira. The latter was chosen exclusively for a beach holiday, where in the summer without swimming and sunbathing.
My first story will be about the second largest city in Portugal - Porto.
Let's start with the route. In my opinion, this is the optimal platform for making some idea about this country.
By the way, A=G=Lisbon. Google put the dots one on top of the other and this is what came out.
How we got to Porto is a different story. Since the plane landed in Lisbon very late and there were no trains to Porto at that time, we had to get there by Rede Expressos bus. We ran and ran, but we made it.
And voila - the city of Porto.
Our hotel was located in the center on Plaza Batalha. So in the morning we had a beautiful view of the Church of San Ildefonso, sun-drenched streets and crowds of tourists.
I tried to keep a lot of people out of the frame, so the streets look more or less deserted.
The first thing that struck me was the Church of San Ildefonso, the pearl of the square. It is all covered with tiles characteristic of Portugal.
These tiles are called azulejos and are of Arabic origin. Their number in Porto is huge; from a distance they are very reminiscent of Gzhel and tiles on Russian stoves.
It is interesting that they depict not just a repeating ornament, but various subjects and characters.
I’m very glad that the azulejos weren’t stolen for souvenirs, otherwise I’m tempted to pick them off.
Imbued with the Portuguese spirit, I endlessly clicked through the streets going uphill and downhill.
Such changes are very atypical for flat Petersburg, so it’s interesting to look at such outlandish landscapes.
When traveling around Portugal, you need to remember about comfortable shoes. The sidewalks are paved with very smooth paving stones, and the ups and downs increase sliding. And of course, you need to take into account the huge walking distances. I lost one pair of shoes in Porto while walking and had to walk part of the way to the hotel barefoot.
Although the sidewalks certainly look very elegant.
Despite the fact that Porto is the second largest city in Portugal, it does not have the Lisbon scale.
It’s good to wander around here, bumping into various architectural monuments without following a map.
Hanging linen everywhere adds a special chic. All colors and sizes. In every house, in the center and in the alleys.
I also couldn’t shake the feeling of Porto being neglected. On every street, several houses stand dilapidated or abandoned, with their windows covered. There was a feeling that people were leaving the city, although this could be deceptive and this is just another “raisin” of Porto.
Probably one of the features of Portugal that comes to mind is trams. Not even - trams.
Such a hello from the past. Although they look very decent, almost like new.
If you wish, you can travel by this type of transport. But when I looked at the crowd packed there like sprat, I lost such desire.
Well, he's cute, isn't he?
For me personally, Hop-on Hop-off buses have become an excellent alternative to excursions, even I would say a more advantageous option when traveling. As a rule, they have an audio guide in Russian; if it is not available, there is always an audio guide in English, free wifi and an excellent view from the second floor. Usually we make the first circle to get acquainted with the sights, and on the second circle we go out at the places we like for photography and walks.
We started our flight from Praça da Liberdade, where Monument to King Don Pedro IV.
Freedom Square is crowned by the city hall. In my opinion, it is very reminiscent of Wenceslas Square in Prague.
(Of course, I’m wildly sorry, but every time Don Pedro was mentioned, I was reminded of the Russian film “Hello, I’m your aunt!” I couldn’t resist remembering. :))
By the way, one more small detail. On Freedom Square there is one of the most luxurious McDonald's I have ever seen. It seems there used to be a restaurant there. The eagle would somehow be more typical for Germany. Inside, the room is also designed in an imperial-solemn style.
On sightseen buses I like to sit on the second floor, of course. I sit high, look far away + get sunbathing. True, in Porto on some streets the trees are not tall, you have to bend down.
In the photo below on the left, by the way, is the municipal building with a 70-meter bell tower.
The bus route passed along the ocean coast, so in Porto I saw the ocean washing the shores of Portugal for the first time. The weather was quite hot, so tourists and locals were relaxing on the beaches. Young people preferred more extreme methods of cooling, jumping from a helipad at the mouth of the Douro River, on which Porto itself stands.
By the way, the views of the city here are wonderful: houses hang over one another and, of course, garlands of laundry to dry.
On the other side of the Douro River, we were told, are the best fish restaurants. In general, judging by the number of fishing boats, there is definitely fish here.
Once you go to the river, it’s impossible not to bump into HIM! I am, of course, talking about the two-level bridge of King Luis I. It connects the Ribeira area with the cellars and wine warehouses of the city of Vila Nova de Gaia. Well, it was built according to the design of Gustave Eiffel’s student and companion Théophile Seyrig. Actually there is something in common.
Attention, many, many photos of the bridge!
The bridge is majestic, there are many of them. And having clicked it during the day from all sides, you definitely need to repeat the same thing at sunset and at night. By the way, in the pre-sunset hours the light is the most advantageous in my opinion.
Of course, this colossus is not the only bridge across the Douro.
I don’t know the name of the next one (can someone tell me?), but it looks impressive, yeah.
And the bridge, who would have thought... Ponte de Dona Maria Pia, named after the wife of King Luis I. Romantic, organ. Well, a whole family.
The views can be viewed from the bank on the Ribeirao side by going to the top on a lift or from the funicular on the other side.
True, the funicular is nothing special. The windows are somewhat stained, the view from the bridge or the bank from above is definitely better. Better save your money for port wine :) .
Well, since I said this magic word (“port”, I mean), then I need to develop this topic.
I think it won’t be difficult to guess that the word “port” comes from the name Porto.
So, the main concentration of warehouses and cellars with this drink is in the city of Vila Nova di Gaia, on the left bank of the Douro.
If you want to taste it, no questions asked - welcome. And it’s very pleasant to wander here. Then sit somewhere on the shore and sharpen sardines.
To be honest, I had a prejudice against port wine, I had never tried it before, but I heard enough negative reviews. True, we were talking about a portey bought in our country.
It turns out that there are several categories of port tawny, brankco, ruby, vintage, etc.
I won't brag. that I tried everything, but only tasted 3-4 varieties.
By the way, with a certain variety it is advised to consume certain snacks: nuts, jam, ham with melon, fruit, lemon pie, etc.
By the way, from here you have an excellent view of the opposite bank.
The places are just made for photo shoots. Houses are piled on top of each other and there are crowds of walking tourists.
Having looked at all this, we quickly hurried to cross the bridge and join the evening bustle.
And a few words about what is located on the other side - Ribeira.
This area is filled with narrow, winding streets and dilapidated houses.
The impression was created that life here was by no means prosperous and people were slowly leaving this place.
But there is good news - the area is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and it seems to be slowly being restored.
By the way, in Porto there is one of the most beautiful railway stations in Europe - Sao Bento.
The walls are tiled with azulejos tiles in white and blue tones. The largest of them is made of 20 thousand tiles and decorates the waiting room. The painting depicts episodes from the history of railways.
Another interesting fact: the symbol of Portugal is the Barcelos rooster. The Barcelos rooster is roasted, so it is always black. Such cockerels can always be purchased in any souvenir shop in Portugal; its image can be found almost everywhere.
In conclusion of this part, I’ll add: to see Portugal, it’s still worth visiting Porto. It has small town charm and is completely different from other places in Portugal.