Travel to Austria: Innsbruck. Where to go from Innsbruck? Trip to Innsbruck from a tour operator

Innsbruck from A to Z: map of hotels and ski areas, slopes and pistes, lifts and ski passes. Vivid photos and videos. Reviews of ski tourists about Innsbruck.

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Alpine skiing in Innsbruck

The main tourist destination in Innsbruck is skiing. There are 9 small districts in the vicinity of the city. It is unrealistic to try out all the trails in one visit; their total length is more than 300 km. The highest point on the ski map of Austria is also located here - the Stubai Glacier. All resorts are located within a 15-60 minute drive from the city; a free bus runs from Innsbruck railway station. The high season lasts from late December to early April.

A single ski pass is valid for all slopes - OlympiaWorld SkiPass. Cost - from 387 EUR for 5 days. In addition to funiculars, cable cars and other services, the price includes half board or breakfast. There are also cards for 1-3 days, but they only apply to 5 ski areas, the price starts from 95 EUR.

Innsbruck resorts offer ample opportunities for active recreation - routes for cross-country skiing, hiking and mountaineering, as well as half-pipes and fun parks for snowboarders. On the slopes there are ski slopes of any difficulty - from green to black, so both experienced athletes and those who just started skiing yesterday will get an adrenaline rush. The length of the longest route (in the Glungetser region) is 9 km, the elevation difference is 1500 m.

For families with children, it is best to go to Patscherkofel or Muterer Alm, where there are children's areas and easy trails. However, you can go sledding at almost any resort. Experienced skiers should pay attention to Aksamer-Litzum. This is one of the Olympic regions of Tyrol, the infrastructure here was built specifically for the winter games. The snow cover is stable, and most of the pistes are red, although there are also blue ones and a couple of black ones.

In the Nordpark ski area there is the steepest ski slope in the European region, its slope is 70%. Only experienced skiers can overcome such a descent. But most of the trails are still designed for an average level of training; there are several for beginners. There are ski schools for adults and children. And those who come to the resort for company can play tennis or swim in the indoor pool.

Maps of Innsbruck

Innsbruck Hotels

It is better for a tourist in Innsbruck to settle as close as possible to the Old Town - Altstadt. It is in the historical center that museums and architectural attractions, interesting restaurants and shops are concentrated. Buses and cable cars to ski resorts also depart from here. Most hotels are also located in the center; on the streets of the New Town you can only find apartments for rent.

There are good options in the surrounding villages - there is a great chance to live in a house built in the old Tyrolean style. From here you can also climb the mountains by cable car, but the journey to the center will take about half an hour.

Although Innsbruck is not considered the most expensive city in Tyrol, prices for hotel rooms here start from 100 EUR for a double room, and this is in a hostel on the outskirts. However, housing in the range of 120-140 EUR per night can be found near Altstadt, but there are few offers. There are many 2 and 3* hotels, the cost of living is from 108 EUR. A higher class is represented by “fours”, the price is from 145 EUR per night. Most of them include breakfast in the price.

What to bring

The most popular souvenirs in Innsbruck are Swarovski crystals and jewelry made from them, because this is where the production is located. However, not everyone can afford such a gift - products cost from 160 EUR, stones - from 40 EUR.

As a souvenir of your trip, you can take home Viennese porcelain, as well as handmade ceramics, embroidery and lace. A special place among Innsbruck souvenirs is occupied by national costumes - ancient clothes made of linen, leather, cloth and other materials. The most interesting are the headdresses - the famous Tyrolean hat would make an excellent gift.

For symbols of the Olympic Games and other souvenir trifles, you should go to the flea market, which takes place on Adolf Pichler Square twice a month - on the 1st and 3rd Saturday.

Tyrolean smoked meats, honey and sweets, including Sachertorte, are famous for edibles. The confectionery shop will pack it securely so that you can take the dessert with you and deliver it without loss. Fans of high-quality alcoholic drinks will like Austrian schnapps, and ladies - wines and liqueurs.

Cuisine and restaurants of Innsbruck

Despite the small size of the city, there are more than 400 cafes and restaurants of various levels and formats. The city has establishments with American, Greek, European, Thai, Indian, Chinese, and Japanese cuisine, but most eateries focus on hearty Tyrolean and Italian cuisine. Authentic dishes include pork ribs, dumplings with salty or sweet fillings, Wiener schnitzels, salads and fresh herb appetizers, homemade cheeses and, of course, the famous apple strudel. Among the drinks, the locals especially love coffee, invigorating mulled wine and radler - beer half diluted with lemonade.

Local taverns offer meat and fish dishes, light salads and specialty snacks. Here you can also try freshly cooked game and juicy steaks. When placing an order, you should keep in mind that the portions will be huge - one dish can be easily divided between two. And there will definitely be an appetizer or salad as a compliment from the chef. At the same time, prices in establishments are quite affordable: even in a tourist center, lunch with beer will cost about 30-45 EUR.

It is customary to leave 10% of the bill amount for tip.

Local coffee shops, most often in the format of a family confectionery, deserve special attention. Here you can try excellent strudel or the famous Sachertorte. And you should wash down your sweets with hot chocolate or strong, aromatic coffee, which the Austrians definitely know a lot about. For locals, visiting a coffee shop is a kind of ritual, during which you can not only cheer up, but also chat about the weather, learn the latest news from the newspapers, and meet with an old friend. The bill for coffee and dessert usually does not exceed 8-10 EUR.

Street food is represented by hot sausages in a crispy bun, pizza, sandwiches and all sorts of fast food variations made from dough, fried meat and vegetables. In addition, there are international fast food chains, where lunch will cost literally 5-8 EUR.

After an active day, it is nice to relax in the bar. You can drink a couple of cocktails or a glass of local unfiltered beer (3-5 EUR), for example, on the 12th floor terrace or on the roof of a building with a breathtaking view of the city and the Alps.

Restaurateurs in Innsbruck pay special attention to the atmosphere of their establishments. Many cafes are located in ancient buildings and are designed in a classic Austrian interior; they are incredibly cozy and warm in every sense.

Cafes and restaurants usually welcome guests from 10:00 to 14:00 and from 18:00 to 22:00. Pubs and bars are open until midnight, and to continue the party you will have to move to a nightclub.

The best photos of Innsbruck

Guides in Innsbruck

Entertainment and attractions

When you arrive in Innsbruck, you should definitely set aside 2-3 days for sightseeing. To visit the capital of Tyrol and not see the historical monuments of the ancient city is simply a crime.

The calling card of Innsbruck is the Golden Roof shining in the sun.

The first step is to go to the imperial palace Hofburg. For 400 years, the ruling Habsburg dynasty lived within these walls. In the middle of a well-kept garden stands a lush façade built in Baroque and Rococo styles, while inside there are frescoes and luxury and interior decorations. Of greatest interest are the Hall of Giants - a long portrait gallery of the Habsburgs, and the Gothic Cellar, where a collection of sculpture and painting is kept.

The hallmark of the city is the Golden Roof - a luxurious balcony, the canopy over which is covered with 2,657 gilded copper plates. It was from here that Emperor Maximilian I once watched knightly tournaments. The exposition of the museum opened in the same building tells about this. If you can admire the Golden Roof itself for free, you will have to pay to enter the museum.

The main religious attractions are St. James's Cathedral and the royal Hofkirche. The first amazes with its luxurious façade, the second with its rich interior decoration. In the cathedral you can see the image of the Madonna and Child by Lucas Cranach the Elder, and in the Hofkirche - the monumental marble sarcophagus of Emperor Maximilian I.

The German painter Albrecht Durer had a hand in painting the interiors of the temples.

To admire the panorama of Innsbruck and the surrounding mountain ranges, it is worth climbing the City Tower, the observation deck is at an altitude of 31 m. In the Middle Ages, heralds were regularly on duty here, today tourists stroll idly.

6 things to do in Innsbruck

1. Get on your skis.
2. See the largest crystal in the world.
3. Get plenty of schnapps.
4. Ski in the footsteps of the winners of the 1976 Winter Olympics.
5. Visit all the peaks and choose the one with the best view of the city.
6. Find the most delicious apple strudel.

Museums

The Tyrolean State Museum "Ferdinandeum" introduces city guests to the history of the region, dating back more than 300 thousand years. The extensive exhibition contains thousands of exhibits and is divided into 7 parts dedicated to different historical eras. The remains of prehistoric animals and paintings by famous Dutch painters (Rembrandt, Bruegel, Klimt and others), musical instruments and church utensils, armor, weapons and household items are exhibited here.

Having driven 15 km from Innsbruck, you find yourself in a kingdom of sparkling brilliance. The Swarovski Crystal Worlds Museum was founded 20 years ago, in the year of the 100th anniversary of the famous company. It is located underground, the entrance is guarded by the head of a giant with sparkling eyes. The main attraction is a huge faceted crystal of 300 thousand carats.

The crystal installations, including reproductions of paintings by Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali, are truly impressive.

The Tyrolean Folk Art Museum houses exhibits dedicated to the life, culture and traditions of these places. Detailedly recreated rooms of the Tyroleans from the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque eras, an exhibition of folk costume and other exhibitions allow you to get closer to the history of the country and understand the mentality of the local residents.

Innsbruck for children

Innsbruck is one of the best places where you can put your child on skiing - there are children's slopes and sports schools. The slopes are equipped with slides for sledding, indoor swimming pools and hiking trails.

On Mount Nordkette, at an altitude of more than 700 m, there is the Alpine Zoo. More than 2,000 individuals of 150 species typical of the Alpine region live here. Some of them were on the verge of extinction (forest ibis and alpine ibex); other representatives of the fauna can rarely be seen in captivity (for example, a small wall-crawling bird). The aquarium contains cold-blooded animals and fish from alpine lakes.

For the little ones there are playgrounds “Bear's Den” and “Wolf's Lair”, where they get acquainted with the life of dangerous predators.

In the Ötztal Valley, 30 km from the city, young tourists will feel like time travelers and be transported back 5,000 years. In the Neanderthal village of Ötzi, the life of an ancient man of the Neolithic era was recreated with amazing accuracy - huts, tools, weapons and domesticated animals (office site). Children are taught to survive in the wild with only what Neanderthals had. They make a fire and bake cakes, sharpen knives and shoot with a bow, knit bracelets and draw tattoos, and in their imagination they are already preparing to start a hunt for mammoths.

Weather

Average monthly temperature, °C day and night

In summer the city is no less picturesque than in winter - green slopes are clearly visible behind the medieval facades. In July there is a high probability of getting caught in the rain - in mid-summer the city receives the most rainfall.

The route continues along the A12 motorway past Wörgl and along the 178/170 to Kitzbühel, an ancient city, famous throughout the world as one of the most elegant ski resorts. It is also one of the most beautiful and interesting Tyrolean cities. Gourmet restaurants staffed by famous chefs coexist here with cozy taverns, cute coffee shops and popular nightclubs. And many luxury 4* and 5* hotels of well-known international chains and local Tyrolean dynasties delight you with the level of service and the number of pleasant bonuses. What awaits travelers in Kitzbühel? Exciting walks through the historical part of the city, visiting museums and castles, for the most adventurous - playing in the casino, and for the tired - relaxing in local spa centers and, of course, shopping and food.

Take the B161 from Kitzbühel to the picturesque resort Zell am See.

A charming old town nestled among the Alps in the Salzach River valley not far from Salzburg. From the north, the flat plain is closed by the majestic and almost always calm Lake Zeller, and in the south it abuts the routes of the Kaprun glacial zone. Therefore, in the summer here you can swim in the lake and go skiing on the same day. And even if today conquering the mountains does not take much time thanks to convenient modern ski lifts and equipped tourist mountain routes, all the same, when you reach panoramic observation deck Top of Salzburg of the Kitzsteinhorn glacier and looking at the fantastic view from there, you will definitely feel the special grandeur of the Alps. Another mountain in Zell am See, Schmitten, is perfect for families with children. Everything here is thought out to make guests, regardless of age, comfortable and interesting. Climb the mountain on modern gondola lifts, designed by Porsche. From there you can admire stunning panorama of more than 30 alpine peaks and take a leisurely stroll, even with a stroller, along the high-mountain promenade, looking at the original wooden sculptures along the way.

Things to do:

Have breakfast on the mountainHorngipfel in Kitzbühel

Cable car Hornbahn starts at 4:30 am, allowing early risers to reach the top before dawn, stroll through alpine flower meadows and enjoy a generous and delicious breakfast al fresco. This guided walk, including the ski lift and breakfast, will cost 34 euros. It is worth booking one day in advance.

Stroll along the lakeside promenade in Zell am See
It’s nice to stroll along the promenade in Zell am See and admire the idyllic scenery of the mountain lake, on whose serene surface ducks swim and proud swans move slowly. In the summer, in the evenings the lake is illuminated by the bright flashes of an enchanting light and sound show on the water. Magical Lake Zell. Admission to the show is free.

An independent trip to Austria allowed me to see the sights of Innsbruck, see the nature of Tyrol, and get acquainted with local customs; if you want to know more, read the story about an independent trip to Innsbruck

All three of my trips to Austria turned out in such a way that in addition to Vienna, the main and most popular place among tourists in the country, each time I visited another large city. First, the Austrian capital was paired with Salzburg, then Graz became a couple, and finally, I had the chance to make acquaintance with Innsbruck - a casual acquaintance, so to speak, for just a couple of hours. However, this couple of hours determined my subsequent desire to see the sights of this Tyrolean pearl to the greatest extent possible.

The fact is that Innsbruck, founded almost 800 years ago, although it cannot boast of the glory that, say, Salzburg has as the birthplace of Mozart, is still distinguished by its extraordinary picturesqueness: being located among the mountains, it willy-nilly emphasizes the elegance of its buildings with the most beautiful landscapes.

There is only one thing that spoils the pleasure: it is quite difficult for an independent traveler to get to Innsbruck. That is, everything seems to be simple, and a high-speed train to the capital of the Austrian Tyrol will bring a traveler from Vienna in just 4 hours, but the cost of travel on the route is such that for this money you can fly to the edge of Europe. Accordingly, paying 60 euros on the way there and so much for an express train back for a personal outing is somehow not easy, but with other options it’s not a lot. There is, however, one trick that allows you to travel by train from Vienna to Innsbruck inexpensively, such as buying an Austrian railway ticket to Zurich. On this route, you often come across special offers like “ Europe 29”, and then the Austrians charge only 29 euros for those who want to ride to the largest city in neighboring Switzerland. Of course, no one forbids getting off in Innsbruck, and the fare is thus halved.

True, there is no way to do the same trick in the opposite direction, and therefore the trip from Vienna to Innsbruck remains a very expensive affair.

A second, more fruitful acquaintance with the Tyrolean capital was to take place soon enough: having planned a vacation in the German Alps, I personally set aside one day for a trip from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Innsbruck, fortunately it’s just a stone’s throw away and can be reached by train in just an hour. It seemed that everything was going well, but due to my adventures in Morocco with the cancellation of the flight, the German part of the travel program turned out to be crumpled, and the excursion to Innsbruck from Garmisch-Partenkirchen did not take place then. I had to approach the issue, so to speak, from the other side - in the literal sense. And during another multi-day tour of Europe, I needed to move from Verona to Munich; the matter is essentially simple, but since I was planning to make this move only a few days before the date of the trip, I no longer had to count on inexpensive Deutsche Bahn tickets. The emphasis should have been on electric trains, first Italian, then German, and this decision made it possible to get to Bavaria for quite reasonable money. Then it dawned on me to make a big stop in Innsbruck, perhaps even overnight.

Having seen the train schedule, I was finally convinced that such a step was correct, and the die was thus cast... Since the road repeating the old caravan route through the Alpine passes was already explored by me when I made a previous independent trip to Austria, moving through Italian territory brought me mainly beautiful pictures outside the window and not the slightest worry. But as I approached the Austrian border, I still managed to feel the excitement: knowing what serious fines await free riders on European trips, I was very nervous about my own prospects. The fact is that along the way it made sense to visit the small, neat and damn cute towns of that part of the Tyrol that belongs to Italy. And while visiting these towns, I was somewhat delayed on the way, which is why I had to go to Austria late in the evening. And that’s okay, but the train I boarded went straight to Innsbruck at high speed, without making it past the Brenner border station, aka no more stops. This was definitely to the benefit of the passengers, but the Italians only sold me a ticket to the border, and, according to my estimates, I had no more than four minutes to purchase a travel document for the Brenner section at the Austrian Railways ticket office or from their machine -Innsbruck – not having met this period of time, I risked spending about an hour and a half on the pass, until the next train, which, moreover, would have been the last for that day...

From the experience of the last race, which was then carried out from north to south, I remembered that Brenner, aka Brennero according to the Italian classification, it definitely has cash registers and machines with the label “ Trenitalia “, that is, the railways of Italy are fully represented there, and buying a ticket to Trento there was not difficult then. I didn’t bother to find out about similar equipment in the Austrian part of the station then - there was simply no need, because in order to get from Innsbruck to the border, I easily purchased a ticket at the station of this very Innsbruck. Now I had to learn from my own experience what to do next for those traveling to Austria from Italian territory.

It turned out that there was no need to do anything at all: before the train had time to stop, I instantly flew out onto the platform and immediately searched all the nooks and crannies of that part of the station where the red cars with the inscription “End their journey.” OEBB "

Thus, I arrived in Innsbruck, so to speak, as a “hare”, not knowing whether to be happy or sad about this: as practice shows, sometimes unexpected luck can subsequently ruin the whole mass, and then, for example, suddenly acquaintance with the city is spoiled by rain or some other trouble occurs, as if as compensation...

Rain, by the way, seemed very likely, judging by the clouds that were crawling over the tops of the surrounding mountains. But, by God, I would have agreed to the rain without hesitation if it had been possible to avoid a much greater misfortune: I had to seriously take into account the looming prospect of having to spend the night on the street...

Anyone familiar with my stories should know that over the course of many trips, I arrived in the city a few times without a confirmed hotel reservation. This time I also had a reservation, and it was also confirmed, but when I made the order in a hurry, I somehow didn’t notice that the reception of the hotel I had chosen was not open on weekends, and it’s good that the hotel itself bothered to notify me about this . The notice also included an apology for this, plus a digital code to open the front door; Then, as expected, everything seemed to be going like clockwork: “The key to your room, Herr Schubbe, will be in an envelope at the reception desk,” the letter said.

I, who grew up in my native land, immediately imagined that such an approach was hardly possible here: for the responsible person to leave the key on the counter, and even for the whole day - this is the “Obvious-Incredible” program. However, here was Austria, where people were probably used to trusting each other. So, after some wandering around the area, I found the long-awaited “Haus Marillac” sign, unlocked the front door with the code sent, took the envelope with my last name, resisted the sudden desire that flared up to take at the same time three more envelopes with other people’s keys, went up to my floor and burst into room.

The choice of a hotel for me is usually determined by a combination of a bunch of factors, the most important of which are price, amenities and location. As a rule, I prefer to stay closer to the center or, depending on future plans, close to transport hubs, but if a hotel on the periphery offers a good price coupled with positive reviews, then I will prefer it to a centrally located office, where due to the roar of a nightclub It will be impossible to sleep. In this regard, “Haus Marillac” became an exemplary example: those hotels in Innsbruck that were located near the station received mainly negative feedback from their guests,

Besides, when you start booking a hotel a couple of days before arrival, you don’t have much to choose from. In fact, for the most part, Innsbruck hotels set such prices that for this money one could comfortably spend the night in the Maldives. To be fair, there were tolerable options, but they turned out to be some kind of hostels with amenities on the floor. “Haus Marillac” with its 45 euros seemed like a real success to me, the reviews for it were mostly positive, and I decided to take it, despite the hotel’s distance from the center.

A quick acquaintance with the hotel convinced me that the choice was correct: it was not without its shortcomings, but still, for a short stay of a day or two in Innsbruck, “Haus Marillac” is quite suitable. Among the advantages, I will name the well-groomed, cleanliness and calm atmosphere; among the disadvantages, it is worth writing down the lack of TV and air conditioning in the rooms. The first one is not included, it seems, simply on principle, because the hotel, as far as I understand, is intended for the relaxation of elderly people who prefer peace and spiritual harmony - there are even special relaxation rooms on the floors. As for the second, the area is generally quiet, and in the summer you can probably open the window without a hitch if you suddenly find it impossible to breathe inside the room. In a word, there are some shortcomings, but, in my opinion, they are insignificant - it turned out that you can spend the night inexpensively in Innsbruck, albeit with certain reservations.

With this now undoubted success came a second one: looking out of the window in the morning, I discovered in front of me not only the snow caps of huge mountains, but also the blue sky; the rain that was promised by yesterday's clouds decided to fall elsewhere. Consequently, nothing could interfere with my excursion around Innsbruck, and, having thoroughly refreshed myself at the hotel’s buffet - I had to eat, it is worth noting, in splendid isolation - I rented out my room and, leaving my things in the care of the receptionist, went to get acquainted with the capital of the Austrian Tyrol .

Well, that is, I did not immediately begin this acquaintance, because the attractions of Innsbruck, for the most part, were located at a distance of 20-25 minutes on foot from me. Yes, there were a couple of churches nearby, and the city embankment with its landscapes, but these were still not such bright places as to overshadow the beauty of the Innsbruck center. In the meantime, the road to this center lies beneath your feet, I want to note that this whole story with the hotel is very instructive. Judge for yourself: having arrived in an unfamiliar, albeit previously seen, city late at night, I quickly checked into the room allotted to me, had a good rest, had a hearty breakfast, paid a little money for these amenities and culturedly went to explore the area. Meanwhile, all sorts of people who like to look for an overnight stay on the spot would be forced to first look in the dark for at least some semblance of an overnight stay, and then, if they are lucky enough to find something, listen half the night to the screams of drunken youth, because it is precisely this contingent that gathers in the favorite places of this by the public in hostels and various student dormitories. No, I personally can understand this lifestyle...

I also don’t understand why some tourists completely ignore such a useful thing as city cards. My extensive experience in this area convinces me that such an acquisition can make life a lot easier - let’s say, in London we saved about fifty pounds, and in the case of Paris the gain was about a hundred euros. Of course, not every city has its own card, and sometimes the purchase does not seem particularly profitable, but in the case of the Innsbruck Card, it seems to me that there is nothing to talk about. Indeed, even at a relatively high price of 29 euros, the Innsbruck card will definitely pay for itself, including through the use of the local public transport network.

The Innsbruck card is sold in different places, but with a guarantee it can be purchased at number three on Burggraben Street - the city’s tourist office is located there. To tell the truth, at first I can’t believe that the said address really “warmed up” the tour office, because glass windows filled with crystal look out: the cunning Austrians cunningly combined with this office a branch of the Swarovski company, which has a truly amazing effect, because tourists, having entered, seem to on business, then they can’t leave for a long time because they admire the beauty of the products. The Japanese are especially fond of this ogling, and if you are “lucky” to show up at the tour office during the visit of their delegation, then it will be difficult to get through to the necessary counters with maps and booklets.

Perhaps there is no need to push away guests from Asia, because those who just need a city map can easily take it next to the entrance, on the left side of which there is a special machine - you pay 1 euro, and the map of Innsbruck is yours. I think it’s still worth paying, because a paid card is more detailed than a free one and, in addition, contains a lot of useful information on the back.

Such information includes, for example, an article about the Innsbruck sightseeing bus. It was launched not so long ago, but since then it has already gained popularity among those city guests who want to explore local attractions without extra labor. These people now buy a ticket for 3.20 euros for a circular route, which includes almost a dozen checkpoints near the most interesting places for tourists; These include, in particular, Innsbruck Cathedral, smaller churches, the Imperial Palace, Ambras Castle and the railway station. Along the way, excursionists listen to the guide’s story, plus if they decide to buy not an ordinary ticket, but a day pass for 6 euros, then they have the opportunity to get off at stops, see one or another attraction, and then board the next flight; A day pass, by the way, allows you to ride on regular types of public transport. Within the city limits, travel costs currently 1.20 euros, there are day passes that cost 4.20 euros - it makes sense to buy if the hotel, for example, is on the outskirts, because walking through the center of Innsbruck is actually a breeze. I will also add that the transport follows the schedule extremely scrupulously, and you can be quite sure that if the departure of, say, a tram is scheduled for 11:02, it will take place at 11:02.

However, you and I don’t really need to travel: the most interesting sights of Innsbruck are mostly concentrated in the center. For example, the tourist office is located almost next door to such an interesting thing as Goldenes Dachl, or, speaking in Russian, the House with a Golden Roof, or simply the Golden House. This is, so to speak, the quintessence of imperial dominion over the Tyrol, a symbol of the greatness and power of the Austrians. The building was built during the time of Tyrolean independence during the reign of Duke Ferdinand IV - it barely started then XV century And just a century later, the area came under the control of the Holy Roman Empire and its Habsburg rulers, who spared no expense in equipping the house with a “golden” roof consisting of two and a half thousand tiles. Emperor Maximilian personally supervised the construction.

I For example, the tourist office is located almost next door to such an interesting thing as , who had certain views on the Golden House, and therefore the image of the ruler is present in the design of the facade.

Having enjoyed the tour of Tyrolean architecture, let's now go to the rear, more precisely, let’s go around it to the right, and then soon the bulk of the temple will appear before us - this is the Innsbruck Cathedral. The colossal size of the building is truly mesmerizing, and even moving to the very end of the square

The interior decoration of the main temple of the city is also good, and besides, it does not crush the pilgrim; the space of the main nave seems quite rich in sculptures and paintings, which is just enough and not excessive. Here we must pay tribute to those who, over the course of many decades, improved the interiors, maintaining a single style: after Innsbruck Cathedral was completed in 1724, its decoration took many decades.

The result of all the work was a wonderful example of Austrian religious architecture, although not as famous as St. Stephen of Vienna, but still famous. The rear of the Innsbruck Cathedral faces the Imperial Palace, which, by the way, is also no match for its Viennese counterpart: the capital's Hofburg was originally built as an imperial residence, while the Hofburg of Innsbruck did not think of anything like that. The Dukes of Tyrol lived separately for quite a long time, and the founders of the dynasty, perhaps, only in a nightmare would have dreamed of such things as the loss of the country's independence and its annexation to Austria. Therefore, they built their family nest according to their own, somewhat local, standards. In fact, the entire palace ensemble received its current appearance only in the second half XVIII

century, when the new owners of these lands, the Austrian Habsburgs, became concerned with the transformation of the complex. By their order, the Imperial Palace of Innsbruck was rebuilt in the Baroque style, taking into account, however, local architectural traditions. The resulting building has since pleased the eyes of both local residents and guests of the city, and, rumor has it, the palace is good not only on the outside, but also on the inside; it seems that the interiors look even better than the front facade, but since I was not inside the building, I can’t say anything about this... XV I’ll tell you better about the Hofkirche church, a very unique building. From the outside, it looks as if it were a Protestant temple, without unnecessary decor or bright attributes. But as soon as you go inside, the impression changes dramatically: inside the Hofkirche is equipped, as they say, to the fullest extent, and its interiors will be the envy of any other church in Innsbruck, with the possible exception of the cathedral. And all thanks to the high patrons, because this building was built over ten years from 1553 to 1563 as a kind of monument erected by the grandson for the sake of his royal grandfather, the ruler of the Holy Roman Empire Maximilian

And another Hof appeared next to the Hofburg, only not to the south, like the Hofkirche, but closer to the north. This is the Hofgarten, designed as a kind of court garden next to the Imperial Palace. I think that few rulers would agree to keep a piece of “wild” terrain next to their residence, and the Dukes of Tyrol, of course, were not such idiots. It appears that the court garden was developed systematically, starting from the late Middle Ages, although the Tyroleans often did not have enough funds for proper decoration. Because of this unfortunate circumstance, the park is in the middle XVII

century, somewhat lost its former luster, but after these lands fell under the scepter of Vienna, the fate of Hofgarten changed dramatically.

Empress Maria Theresa, as you know, was a big fan of palace and park ensembles, and therefore experts took the transformation of her newly-minted Innsbruck possessions seriously. The park turned out to be somewhat reduced in scale, but a real Renaissance festival was held on the territory, whose traces are visible even now, after so many years. Nowadays, the Hofgarten is actively used by local residents as a comfortable place to relax, with its numerous benches placed along the shady alleys...

Coming out of the cafe back onto the street, refreshed, you can continue to explore the sights of Innsbruck, especially since you don’t have to go far for this: diagonally to the left stands a church decorated in the Baroque style, for which there are already three names, all three are quite official, by the way.

Somewhere they prefer to use the name Dreifaltigkeitskirche, somewhere the building goes by the name Jesuitenkirche, and Universitatkirche is also in use. And all because the church was erected for the needs of the local university, dedicating it to the Holy Trinity. The Jesuits got the temple only in the first half of the seventeenth century, so they seem to be in the past, but it should be remembered that they made a full contribution to shaping the appearance of the church. The old structure had completely fallen into disrepair by that time, and the money of the Jesus brothers was very useful to the local community when the time came to build a new one instead of the old Dreifaltigkeitskirche. The architect Fontaner coped with the order brilliantly, earning his full salary, and thanks to his art, Innsbruck of that time acquired a real example of the Baroque style, unusual for Tyrolean Catholics and perhaps the first example of its kind in the entire region. Well, if believers once rolled their eyes out of habit, then this period is long behind us, and the Church of the Holy Trinity is highly respected in Innsbruck. The rear of the Innsbruck Cathedral faces the Imperial Palace, which, by the way, is also no match for its Viennese counterpart: the capital's Hofburg was originally built as an imperial residence, while the Hofburg of Innsbruck did not think of anything like that. The Dukes of Tyrol lived separately for quite a long time, and the founders of the dynasty, perhaps, only in a nightmare would have dreamed of such things as the loss of the country's independence and its annexation to Austria. Therefore, they built their family nest according to their own, somewhat local, standards. In fact, the entire palace ensemble received its current appearance only in the second half century and, as it seems to me, the place was not chosen by chance: the main street of the city, named after Empress Maria Theresa, is perfectly suited for demonstrating majesty - there is a lot of space and a lot of people, so that almost all tourists passing by do stop and remove the Baroque façade. Previously, this section of the area was occupied by such a prosaic office as a hospital, and, by the way, this is precisely why the church received the name Spitalkirche, as an inheritance and as a keepsake, so to speak...

There, on the spaciousthere is a most interesting monument, namely the column of St. Anne, crowned - don’t be surprised! – the figure is not St. Anne at all!

Indeed, the top platform is occupied by the Virgin Mary, and why the column is dedicated not to her, but to St. Anne, is truly a mystery for those who are not aware of the vicissitudes of local history. The fact is that the residents of Innsbruck with this monument immortalized their most important victory over the troops from Bavaria, thanks to which the townspeople were able to avoid falling into German clutches. This epoch-making event for the fate of Tyrol happened on July 26, 1703, and three years later, on St. Anne’s Day, the column was completed - at the opening, the local archbishop personally consecrated it. Now this vertical dominant serves as the central axis for the entire district, and then visiting people, one way or another finding themselves on the busiest street in Innsbruck, are sure to record several frames depicting the monument in the memory of their camera. .

We are talking about the Arc de Triomphe, built without any triumph.

Probably, anyone who visited the Schönbrunn palace and park ensemble saw Glorietta in the park there, and in Innsbruck the gates from the same opera - it seems that the Austrians believed that the absence of military victories was not at all a reason to remain without monuments in honor of military victories. In short, if you can’t, but really want to, then you can, and therefore the Triumphal Arch of Innsbruck, although it has an extremely warlike appearance, was piled up for the sake of a purely peaceful event, namely the wedding of Maria Theresa’s son.

We must, however, continue to explore the interesting places in the capital of the Austrian Tyrol, and therefore we should now move to Maximilianstrasse to visit the Church of the Heart of Jesus. This building is difficult to describe in a few words: the temple is practically devoid of those characteristic features of local architecture that are inherent in most of its colleagues in the craft. Most of all, the Herz-Jesu-Kirche of the Innsbruck model resembles the Sacré-Coeur in Paris, as the eclectic facade tells us, seemingly devoid of any decorations a la Baroque, and still somehow “variegated”. The roll call with its Parisian counterpart does not end there, because these buildings were erected at approximately the same time, when it was the last quarter XIX century. In fact, the Innsbruck authorities had been planning to build a new church for a very long time, and conversations on this topic had been going on for almost a century; The implementation of the project was first prevented by the Napoleonic Wars, then the financial crisis intervened, and therefore the plan remained only on paper for a long time, although after the temple was completed, many townspeople probably regretted that they had not acquired such a powerful building earlier. In any case, today Herz-Jesu-Kirche is often visited by believers...

If the Church of the Heart of Jesus is indicated on maps as a valuable attraction of Innsbruck, then the Church of Adoration for some reason did not receive this honor - unfairly, in my opinion. For example, I came across her quite by accident when I was leaving Hofgarten Park with the intention of moving towards the hotel. It was then that I came across a building standing on Karl-Kapferer-strasse, which attracted my attention with its unusual design. There, after all, the facade is decorated with brilliantly executed scenes from the Bible - there are all sorts of angels and saints. These paintings owe their creation to the founder of the Order of Worship, who seemed to be contemplating unearthly beings in person; she had a vision, you know. Now the Innsbruck branch of the order is one of the most important in Europe, and the temple, of course, matches such an honor...

Even further north was the Church of Christ adorning Sennstrasse, a few steps from my hotel. I drew attention to this elongated structure the previous evening, when I was looking for a place to stay for the night - then there was no opportunity to appreciate the building, and a close acquaintance had to be postponed. In daylight, the appearance of this landmark of Innsbruck turned out to be even more mysterious: it was unclear what guided the architect who built it. After all, he erected a gigantic, almost hundred-meter-high tower, attaching it (or, rather, attaching to it) a tiny appendage directly to the church. Either the author of the project did not have enough money, or the scope of the plans was only enough for such an essentially minor detail as the bell tower... In general, it is not clear why the local evangelical community agreed that the temple belonging to it should look exactly like that...

A walk around Innsbruck, as you can see, took us completely to the north of the city, and therefore we must take the opportunity to go to the city embankment: from it, you know, the most wonderful views of the Alps open up. From different parts of the city, the surrounding mountains are also sometimes quite visible, but the view there is hampered by construction, here the expanse of the river merges with the mountain expanse, and a trip along the coast, in my opinion, will be a real pleasure for someone who appreciates beautiful landscapes...

Moving along the Inn, you inevitably notice how different the two banks of the river are. If decorous antiquity reigns on the right along the river, then on the left the area looks more like a suburb, and is not at all like the central regions. The center really remains to the side, as if it doesn’t exist at all, while villas, shopping malls, gas stations open up to the walker... It is in these parts, by the way, that you can park for free, because in the center of Innsbruck the opportunity to leave a car will inevitably cost a pretty penny . In addition, on the opposite bank from the city core there are several supermarkets - you won’t be able to find them among the old houses during the day, but here they are at your service. For example, I came across “ Spar ", and the purely Austrian "Mpreis", both with excellent, low prices. The assortment also leaves nothing to be desired, and in addition to local products there is a lot of everything from neighboring Bavaria, for example, Bavarian beer, and Bavarian white sausages “ weisswurst

If you continue to move even further upstream, you will eventually arrive at Innsbruck airport, and I want to say that a visit there can become a separate memorable page in your acquaintance with the city. The fact that the capital of Tyrol is a quiet and partly patriarchal place should become clear as you get to know the city, but you need to visit the airport to understand how quiet and patriarchal this place is. For example, having studied the area, I would not be at all surprised to see grazing cows on the takeoff field, the area looked so rural. Meadows and mountains, turning into each other, form an idyllic landscape, and spotted cows would be quite appropriate here...

However, pastoral impressions will be somewhat deceiving: inside the airport building looks quite modern, there are cafes, souvenir shops and other paraphernalia. As for passengers entering the field on foot, this must be attributed to production costs: the volume of transportation is less than 3,000 passengers per day, which is not conducive to large-scale projects. In fact, only Lufthansa and relatives fly to Innsbruck on a regular basis.” Austrian airlines ”, and all other airlines schedule flights just for the winter ski season. So it seems as if life at the Innsbruck airport is barely glimmering.

On the contrary, about the main station of Innsbruck, Innsbruck Hbf There is no way to say that “life there is barely glimmering”: at any time of the year this transport hub is fairly filled with people. It is connected to the airport by a direct bus line " F ", and for just one and a half euros, which costs a ticket, passengers can easily get straight to regional trains, and then go to the ski resorts. Plus, there is a constant flow of transit passengers through the station, heading some to Italy, some to Switzerland, some to Germany, which, by the way, is just a stone’s throw away - after half an hour of travel you are already close to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. By and large, Munich is also within easy reach, which is what I was going to take advantage of in the future: my plans were the simple task of getting to the border using a purchased Austrian railway ticket, and then using the well-known “ Bayern ticket ”, simply a “Bavarian ticket”, which allows you to ride trains as much as you like, without any restrictions, and get almost all the way to Frankfurt. Considering that Innsbruck station is equipped with ticket machines in addition to “ OEBB "also with automatic machines" DBahn ", the matter did not seem worth a damn, but with the first part of the trip a snag suddenly arose: having bought " Bayern ticket single “Without any problems, I suddenly realized that I didn’t remember the name of the border station, and therefore I couldn’t buy a ticket to it from the machine. I had to go to the ticket office, which did not make me happy at all: as already mentioned, there are quite a lot of passengers at the station, and therefore the queues of ticket buyers are quite real. Add here the fact that the ticket offices are located at one end of the colossal lobby, and the underground passage to the platforms at the other, and then you will understand why I almost missed the right train. In addition, the girl at the cash register for some time could not understand where I needed to go, because the word “ border “Didn’t seem to say anything to her. I had to draw the border between Austria and Germany on paper, and only then did I get the coveted ticket to the station Scharnitz ended up in my hands. Having become its happy owner, I rushed headlong through the entire terminal, flashed like lightning along the aisle lined with luggage storage compartments on the sides, ascended to the platform and managed to jump onto the train just before the final closing of the doors...

This is how somewhat hectic my farewell to Innsbruck turned out to be, a pleasant city in all respects, pleasant and which left me with very pleasant memories...

September 2006

Since Austria is my favorite country, where I have been dreaming of returning for the fifth year, when the opportunity arose, I, without thinking twice, got ready to go. I compiled the route myself, based on my own travel experience, as well as reviews and articles from the Internet. Hotels and visas were arranged through a travel agency. We purchased the ticket ourselves.

The result was: Zell am See (1 week) - Graz (1 night) - Vienna (3 nights) - Munich (3 nights).

So, first things first.

Flight and road to destination

We flew with Aeroflot to Munich. At the border, the border guards, of course, asked where we were going, since the passport had an Austrian visa. But since Bavaria and Salzburgerland are the same thing for them, no problems arose, and we cheerfully rolled out to the airport. God, how huge! I immediately started looking for the letters DB or ReiseZentrum. They found only DB, and joyfully rushed there. We bought the coveted Bavarian ticket worth 27 euros for 2 people (if there were 5 of us, then the price would be the same!), and also bought a ticket from Salzburg to Zell am See for 18.80 euros per person. (if you bought it in Salzburg - on Austrian railways, the ticket would cost 13 euros). They asked for a printout of the train movements, oddly enough, they understood everything, and headed towards the trains.

By the way, if you bought a ticket from a machine, you would save as much as 2 euros per person! But on the first day of arrival they didn’t dare to do this, because they had to deal with this machine first...

It took 2 hours to get to Salzburg from Munich, then a transfer and another 1 hour 40 minutes. to the lake. We arrived at the hotel only in the evening. What immediately killed us was the terrible weather! Just +15 and rain. And like idiots, we packed shorts, swimsuits, T-shirts... - we were going TO THE LAKE! Therefore, the next day, the first thing we did was go to the shops to buy warm clothes.

The place is very beautiful. The lake itself is surrounded on all sides by mountains, some green, others with snowy peaks. Beauty! We subsequently nicknamed our “village” “rain bag” - it feels like there was beautiful and warm weather EVERYWHERE, but here we had rain, rain and rain. I immediately remembered Khazanov with his monologue about the village of Gadyukino, which was washed away...

We were based on the lake for 1 week, and since the weather was completely unflying, which means we couldn’t swim or sunbathe, we decided to visit Innsbruck. At the station we bought a ticket for 42 euros per person. back and forth, and forward.

Innsbruck

At first we were not going to go there, because... according to experts, “...there’s nothing to see there.” But we went and were not disappointed! Moreover, we liked Innsbruck much more than Salzburg! I think that the surrounding landscape plays a big role - snow-white mountains, the views of which will take your breath away. And the city itself is somehow cozy and charming.

From the Main Station we went onto Salurner str., walked to the Arc de Triomphe, and turned through it onto Maria Theresa Street - towards the historical center. The symbol of the city is the “Golden Roof”, which was created by order of Kaiser Maximilian I. Other attractions include the Hofburg Palace complex, Ambras Castle, Ottoburg Palace and Wilten Basilica. Everything is next to each other.

We walked for a long time through the historical center with its romantic alleys and hospitable cafes. Of course, we couldn’t resist shopping – the store windows were inviting! Passing by the famous store "FREY WILLE" we looked at the sparkling gold display window, and suddenly we "stumbled" over an inscription that read in clear German letters - AKTION 30%. So we couldn’t pass by...

By the way, in 1964 and 1976. the city was the site of the Winter Olympic Games. Therefore, ski tourism is most developed here and is equipped accordingly.

Salzburg

A round-trip ticket costs 26 euros, although the time is closer than to Innsbruck - it took 2 hours to get to Innsbruck. Everything is explained simply - Innsbruck is already another federal state, therefore the ticket is more expensive.

We left the station and headed to the center. We even traveled 3 stops by bus (the train ticket is also a travel ticket in the city!). We didn’t follow the map, but purely intuitively, and unexpectedly came out into the Mirabell Garden. A beautiful and well-groomed park, having walked along it a little forward, we turned left and stopped in admiration - in front of us in the distance the Hoenzsalzburg fortress towered, and the domes of the cathedral were visible. And ahead stretched a sea of ​​flowers, and even a fountain with sculptures.

Having passed through the garden, we reached the “finish line” - we crossed the Salzach River through the pedestrian bridge, and through the courtyards we came out onto the Getreidegasse shopping street. It’s a very nice pedestrian street, and the romantic old courtyards adjacent to it really create a unique atmosphere. It also houses the Town Hall and the house in which Mozart was born. You will never pass by this house - there is always a crowd of tourists taking pictures around it, including us. Having walked along it to the end, we came out to Mozart Square.

We looked around, took pictures against the backdrop of the monument, and saw the famous cafe-confectionery "Demel". Before that, I thought that it was only in Vienna, but no! – in Salzburg too! It was decided to come here after visiting the fortress.

There were many cabs standing in the square who wanted to ride around the city center around the historical center. We walked to the Cathedral and went inside - very solemnly and beautifully, as in all large Catholic churches. And we went up the street to the cable car. We bought a ticket for 9.80 euros and took the funicular up to the fortress. The view from there is magnificent over the entire city. And I want to note that the only buildings that stood out from above were the Cathedral (where Mozart himself was baptized) and the adjacent St. Peter's Abbey, Mirabell Palace, the Residence, the Small and Large Festival Palaces. The impression was created that these buildings were built as if “for growth”, which subsequently did not happen! And as a result, in relation to the rest of the houses, they looked too bulky and overhanging.

The city (old) is considered the most picturesque, recognized as a UNESCO world cultural heritage, but... after exchanging glances with a friend, they unanimously said: “And Innsbruck is much better!” But, of course, this is a subjective opinion, all people are different, and so are their tastes.

We walked around the territory of the fortress - it was completely medieval, some dance moves and loopholes. We descended back on foot, along a mountain serpentine - by the way, very quickly, about 30 minutes. And immediately headed to Demel. A very chic and stylish cafe where you feel very at ease. The cakes melted in your mouth, and the coffee was beyond praise.

Two friends sat next to us - typical Austrian women over 50, dressed with unique Austrian chic. It was nice to see them! Well-groomed, fit, happy with their lives, a light scarf casually tied around their necks. Apparently, after shopping, they decided to chat over a cup of aromatic coffee. One of them, having heard our speech, first addressed us in German, and then, learning that we were Russians, theatrically waving her hands, exclaimed:
- ABOUT! I don't speak Russian!

Very nice aunties. They kindly waved goodbye to us.

Krimml Falls

It was decided to get there by bus in order to look around the surrounding and very picturesque area. The ticket price is the same as on the train - 16.80 euros (round trip, of course). By the way, it’s better to get there by bus - the final stop is right at the entrance to the waterfalls, but you still have to get there somehow from the railway station.

On the way there, an incident occurred that caused us to fall silent for 2, or even 3 minutes, having previously fallen into shock. At one of the stops, the bus driver suddenly went out into the bus and...helped some old woman drag in a stroller bag. (I immediately remembered our drivers, who would not only drag a passenger’s bag, but would rather slam the doors in his very face!). Moreover, then he helped this granny take out this stroller when she got off at her stop. Well, there are no words, only emotions! I wonder if this (at least similar) will ever happen in our country?…

Meanwhile, we drove up to the waterfalls and followed the sign in their direction. The waterfalls themselves are a cascade of 3 waterfalls, each of which is approximately 380 m (if my memory serves me correctly). They are considered the highest in Europe (55 km). We paid 1.80 euros for the entrance, and our ascent began. First, the “lower” waterfall opened up to our eyes - indescribable beauty, and then it became even “beautiful”. The higher we climbed, the more picturesque the view became. At the “middle” waterfall we saw a double rainbow - how bright and clear it was! There are pine trees, spruce trees around, the sound of water, clear skies and bright sun - why not? We reached the top (about 1500 m), and even took a nap on a bench - we didn’t want to leave there so much. Here my dream finally came true - to SUNBATH. The way back was much easier, since the road went downhill all the time, albeit in a serpentine way.

We returned to our village late in the evening, and were not at all surprised when we got caught in the rain...

Zell am See

We spent the last 2 days in our village, walking up and down it. And most importantly, we climbed the cable car to the 2000m peak, to the favorite mountain of Empress Sisi - Schmittenhöhe. The view from there is amazing. And if you also drink coffee with a view of the snow-white peaks of the mountains - mmmm, I would stay there! In general, this is where Sisi loved to relax, and the resort is still popular among the local population.

We lived in 3* Mr. Trauben, a very nice family hotel. We lived in close proximity to the railway station, in the very center, next to the Stadtpfarr kirche.

Our location is considered to be the north of Zell am See, and when we walked around in the southern part it was a complete residential area! Our side is much better and more dynamic.

Having assessed the nature and weather, we realized that the best time to relax here is in winter - perfect for ski lovers!

Nearby are the artificial lake Kaprun, the famous Grossglockner glacier, the Werfen ice caves (which we didn’t get to due to lack of time), Hohen-Werfen castle, salt mines... - in short, many interesting places worth visiting.

At first we wanted to buy a SalzburgerlandCard. We went to the tour office (next to the station). Cost 37 euros per person for 6 days. We were already about to buy it with a joyful cry, but we asked in time - what and what discounts does it give? It turns out that only on local buses in Zell am See (where you can get around everything on foot faster), in SOME museums (that is, not in all), and in resort areas - ski lifts, swimming pools, beauty salons. On local trains, the card not only doesn’t work, but doesn’t even give a discount (this is when we found out about tickets to Werfen)! And why is such a map needed then?? In general, we concluded that you should only take it in the winter, when you come there to ski. You can probably save money, but I don’t think it’s significant - when we took the ski lift to Schmittenhöhe, the discount was... 2 euros! By the way, we received it using the guest card that was given to us at the hotel, and thus paid 17.70 euros instead of 19.70.

Graz

The next morning we left our village with great joy and went to Graz. Ticket price is 36.40 euros per person, it takes 4 hours to get to the main station. As soon as we arrived, we immediately went to the tourist office at the station to get a map of the city and also find out how to get to our 3* hotel "Academy". The office employee very clearly explained which bus number to take and the name of our stop. She handed over the plan to the city, and we went to the bus stop. We bought a 24-hour pass from the driver for 3.70 euros, and immediately validated it, stamping the time.

With suitcases that were getting heavier from city to city, we dragged ourselves to the hotel and were a little shocked. It feels like it was a former hostel, moreover, in a former socialist camp. I am silent about the shabby walls, although everything in the room was clean and the linen was in order. But the very appearance of both the furniture and the bedspreads... is eerie old stuff. Thank God we only spent one night there!

Quickly leaving our things behind and changing into everything that was openly summer (the heat was +25), we rushed for a walk around the center. About Graz we read in guidebooks that the city is both provincial and capital (since it is the center of the federal state of Styria). The most romantic place is considered to be Mount Schlossberg with an ancient clock tower (previously this tower was a symbol of the city). When we finally climbed this mountain late in the evening, we said: “why haven’t we climbed here before?!” It turned out to be a very romantic place, and the view of the city from above is very impressive. Before that, we happily walked around the center, wandered into some streets, took pictures in front of the old Kaiser’s confectionery “Edegger” (we couldn’t go inside, because the cafe is open until 19-00).

We barely managed to reach Glockenspiel platz by 18-00. It is on this square that one of the city’s attractions is located – an ancient clock with rotating figures. They rotate at certain times: at 11, 15 and 18-00. How we ran, looking at the map as we went and turning into the right lanes to catch the “last show”! We were afraid to miss this spectacle, because... twice we got out in the wrong direction (and for some reason always onto the embankment, which is on the opposite side), although we were moving according to the map (motorists suck)... But fortunately, we made it!

We went to a local bar and drank a glass of excellent white wine. And we came to the conclusion that we could stay in Graz for another day and see what we didn’t have time to see. A very romantic and hospitable town!

Vein

The next morning, dragging suitcases along the route hotel-bus-station, we finally boarded the train and headed to Vienna. A ticket from Graz to Vienna South Station was 27 euros per person. Time – 3 hours.

I can talk about Vienna for a long time, because... In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful cities! I liked Peter Weil’s words about Vienna: “...at the same time respectable and hospitable, prim and democratic.” He described the city very clearly. There are countless cafes, restaurants, and architectural monuments around (sometimes it seemed that almost every house was the property of the republic). Amazing city!

At first, an extensive sightseeing program was planned, but 3 days was not enough. And this is what we got...

First of all, we went to St. Stephen's Cathedral, and from there we went for a walk, first along Kartnerstrasse, and then along the Ring. Our legs were no longer strong from multi-day foot races, but we stubbornly, clenching our jaws, moved forward. We walked around Hobburg, where I bought a ticket to a Mozart and Strauss concert for 35 euros (another dream come true!), walked past the Parliament, the Town Hall, the Vienna Opera, and checked in at the monument to the Russian soldier and the famous Karlskirche. Then they dropped dead in their hotel room...

By the way, about travel. The Vienna Card for 3 days for 16.90 euros was advertised all around, which gave free travel on public transport, as well as discounts in some museums. But we did even better - we bought a 72-hour pass through the machine for...12 euros. This card did not give discounts in museums (although we did not ask, since museums were not part of our plans for this visit), and it was also called the “Vienna Card”.

While at St. Stephen's Cathedral, I remembered one wonderful review about Vienna, which talked about the famous Sky Bar on the 7th floor in a modern building opposite the cathedral. I also remembered the names of some super-cocktails - Belini and Maserati..:) Hmm, I need to test it! I ordered Belini because... the Maserati contained grapefruit juice (and I can’t stand it, even if it’s freshly squeezed). I agree with the author of that review - the cocktail is delicious! And having lit a cigarette, with great pleasure I stretched out my poor legs on the leather sofa, looking from the bar window at the roof of the cathedral... Eh, I would have sat there all evening, but Vienna called further.

Of course, we went to the Sacher cafe and ate a piece of the cake of the same name and coffee. Where else, if not here, can you taste famous dishes?! There, at the hotel, we went to a tea shop and bought Demel coffee and tea in stylized tin cans...

We devoted the next day to the Schönbrunn palace complex (fortunately we lived almost next to it - in the 3* Lucia Hotel), namely to the park, since I was already inside the palace. We listened to the advice of one review regarding the observation gazebo - we weren’t too lazy, got to it, and enjoyed the view of both the palace and Vienna as a whole.

The park itself is very picturesque. I was very pleased with the trees, trimmed to different shapes. There is silence, beauty, many flowers all around. We didn’t go to the zoo there because we are not big fans of these “Institutions.”

We really wanted to go to Baden-Baden, but we didn’t have enough time. We left that for next time. Besides, I already had to get ready for a meeting with Mozart! :)

The most memorable event in Vienna is of course the classical concert in the Hoffburg! Every now and then tears of emotion appeared in my eyes when I heard familiar and favorite melodies. Moreover, the concert was held in the Congress Hall - before the concert I could not get enough of the decoration and design of the hall. 1.5 hours flew by unnoticed, and now the audience was applauding the musicians. They didn’t let us go for a long time, and the conductor rewarded us with 2 more numbers not according to the program... After the concert, I walked around Vienna in the evening for the last time, because... the next day we left for our last place of deployment - Munich.

Munich

I’ll immediately tell you a “horror story” about buying a ticket to Munich. We ask at the Western Station ticket office:
- How much does a ticket to Munich cost?
- 72 euros.

We quietly got excited, stood and thought, and returned to the checkout with a modified question:
- What is the cheapest ticket to Munich?
- 59 euros.

It turns out that if you buy a ticket for a SPECIFIC date (with a seat reservation), the ticket becomes significantly cheaper! If we had known this earlier, we would have saved so many euros!! And so - if you don’t specify - then they sell you a ticket with an open date, which is valid for a month, and on the train sit in any seat in 2nd class, if it is not marked “reserved”. So keep this in mind and be vigilant and meticulous! The drive to Munich is only 4 hours.

We arrived at the Western Station, and our hotel (fortunately) was located almost opposite it - Europischer Hof. We settled in the Superior room (this was a gift from the Germans, because we actually booked the Mark Hotel, but everything changed there because of the arrival of the Pope), and immediately went for a walk around the neighborhood.

I would like to note that this is the second time I’ve been to Germany (before that I was in Dusseldorf), and the second time I really liked Germany. I won’t talk about cleanliness and grooming - that’s already clear. But the architecture pleasantly struck and surprised me. I didn’t expect to see so much gothic beauty in Munich.

Coincidentally, during our stay in the city, Pope Benedict XVI was visiting there. Accordingly, the entire center and the path to the famous “Cathedral of the Beloved Woman” church were blocked. There are huge screens all around in the central squares, which broadcast the papal visit and his service in the cathedral. Walking somewhere in the center and coming across a police blockade along the road, we decided to wait and see - what would happen here? Imagine our amazement when the pope’s motorcade drove past us, and from the window of a BMW 7 model he graciously waved his hand to everyone gathered! (It’s just that once – 4 years ago – we were also “lucky” in the Vatican, when instead of the usual recording of the Mass, the now deceased Pope John Paul II himself read it in a trembling voice).

However, tradition! - my friend and I said, and moved further to the Arc de Triomphe.

We walked around the entire center of Munich, looked at all kinds of churches, the city hall (the most beautiful building!), fountains, just some squares and beautiful buildings - not only do I not remember the names, but I don’t know either, because... We moved without a map, but at random - it turned out more interesting.

The next day it was decided to go to Neuschwanstein Castle.

Already scientists, they bought a Bavarian ticket from the machine for 25 euros for three (!). From the western station you had to go to Fussen, and another 10 minutes by bus to the castle. The Bavarian ticket, by the way, was also valid on the bus. It's a 2 hour drive one way. We arrived without any problems, strictly on schedule. You can get to the castle by walking along the mountain serpentine road, by cart (all around, mmmm... to put it mildly - the smell of a horse, brr!), or by small bus. We chose the first path. Fortunately, on the mountain trails we already ate the dog...

The entrance ticket to the castle costs 9 euros, if in a group it costs 8 euros. BUT: it is written in black and white that visiting the castle WITHOUT a guide is impossible. Only with a group, in an organized manner, and in turns.(!!). The queue number is written on the ticket, and at the entrance to the castle territory, people of different nationalities wait for their turn... As far as we later understood, the wait could be up to 2 hours, especially if you sign up for a Russian language group. We gave up on this matter and did not go to the castle. In principle, there is something to look at there - very beautiful halls, rich and luxurious interiors (the souvenir shop is full of postcards and books with photographs), but half of the castle is still not completed! - this is what the Americans told us on the way back on the train. In addition, the history of the creation of the castle itself is interesting, the owner of which, Ludwig II, was a big fan of Wagner, and therefore everything in the castle is designed in the style of his works. In short, you can go on an excursion.

Near the castle, in one of the souvenir shops we couldn’t resist buying a couple of postcards with a view of the castle in winter.

When we were returning back, we arrived at the bus stop and found that the next bus would arrive only in 2 hours - it was a day off. Where to go, everyone seems to have already looked?.. - of course, drink beer! No sooner said than done. And when we returned to the stop, we saw a terrible queue - and they all got on our bus! Wow... I immediately remembered the Moscow metro at rush hour... The driver, in my opinion, was simply overwhelmed by so many tourists and... opened all the doors for entry! Otherwise, we would have stood there for at least half an hour while everyone went through the turnstile. And this is an unaffordable luxury for the driver - the schedule will be disrupted! In Germany, even trams run strictly on schedule. At each stop there is an electronic board (or schedule), which shows the time after which a particular tram number will arrive. These are the Germans! - and for them order is above all! The vaunted German punctuality...

We got to Munich and before we knew it, we started talking with the Americans. It all started when one of them started reading...Tolstoy's Anna Karenina. (!!!) However! Of course, I couldn’t resist asking: “Do you really like this?” For the first time I saw such educated Americans...

Well, the next morning we started for the airport - a 40-minute ride along the S8 line, from the Main Station to the final stop. The ticket costs 8.80 euros.

This is how our trip turned out. If you have any questions, write.

Olga
02/10/2006 14:01

The opinions of tourists may not coincide with the opinions of the editors.

Good afternoon, today I will tell you what it consists of and how much a trip to Austria costs. About how much you can expect when planning your travel budget and how you can cut costs. I'll show you our budget report (you can see the route). Based on our report, you can calculate your budget and plan your trip.

Any trip consists of costs:

• for an air ticket
• to pay for housing
• to purchase a visa to the country
• for insurance
• for food
• for excursions and entertainment
• car rent

The first thing to remember is that large countries have several airports. That airports are located in different cities. That the cost of air tickets in Austria by city can vary greatly.

Much depends on the season and time of purchase (the earlier you buy, the cheaper the ticket will be). I am showing a screenshot of prices for mid-April 2020.

Here are the major cities in Austria that have airports: Vienna, Salzburg, Graz, Innsbruck, Linz, Klagenfurt.

Here is a screenshot where you can see the price difference:

As you can see, the best priced ticket is an air ticket to Vienna, from 106 € round trip.

True, not all cities on this list can be reached from Russia by direct flight. It will be faster and easier to get to Vienna with a direct flight with Austrian Airlines. To other cities there are flights with transfers in Berlin, Hamburg, Dusseldorf, Helsinki and other European cities.

This is important information for us. If we wish, we can choose a flight with a long layover (+ 1 day), get off at the airport, see another city, and then continue our journey.

Important : Sometimes airlines have ticket sales or discounts. To buy a profitable and convenient ticket you need monitor proposals. As soon as you see something good, check the conditions and buy immediately. Such offers fly away instantly.

How much does a visa cost?

Austria is part of the Schengen union. For us (Russians) this means that purchasing a visa is mandatory. To obtain a visa to Austria, you must submit correctly completed documents.

note: Many companies offer visa processing services. This means that you provide them with all the necessary documents, take them to the visa center, and they undertake to deliver the documents to you. Such a service can cost 5 or 6 thousand rubles. At the same time, you must understand that you prepare, collect, deliver and correctly complete the documents yourself. They also tell you the requirements. And the requirements are clearly stated on the official websites of visa centers.

Those. in fact, you pay for the delivery of documents from the visa center. Whether it's worth doing is up to you to decide.

Applying for a visa to Austria yourself costs 35 €, plus a service fee of 20 €. The expiration date of the passport must be at least 6 months.

One of the rules for obtaining a visa implies that you must have a certain amount of funds (money) in your account. Many countries specify this amount in their visa requirements. Some countries do not specify a clear amount.

But the calculation is approximately this: 50 - 65 euros for each day of stay in the country. Your bank account statement shows your level of financial security.

When calculating your travel budget, you should take into account that this is the “average daily norm”. You can spend more, or you can cut costs and spend less money. No one can force you to spend 50 euros a day)

The Austrian Visa Service Center in Moscow is located at Dubininskaya 35. There are also visa centers in Kazan, Krasnodar, Nizhny Novgorod, Novosibirsk, Samara, Rostoy-on-Don, Krasnoyarsk and other large cities in Russia. The entire list can be viewed at website Austria Visa Application Center.

Important news: From September 14, 2015, Russians will be required to be present in person when applying for a visa to provide biometric data (fingerprints and digital photographs). This applies to tourists who request short-term visas for up to 90 days per six months. You only need to provide biometric data once. After this, your fingerprints will be stored in a database.

How much does it cost to stay

In Austria, as in other European countries, there is a huge selection of housing. A bed in an eight-person room in a hostel, a single or double room in 2-5 star hotels, apartments and apartments with a kitchen, luxury rooms with a swimming pool. It's all there. Choose according to your budget. Our accommodation booking service will help you with this. roomguru. We use this service.

Vienna has a well-developed metro and other types of public transport, so you don’t have to worry about finding housing in the very center of the capital. You can find options in other areas. Vienna's main attractions can be reached in 15 minutes. The cost of the metro will be cheaper than living in the center. We stayed at the hotel Sommerhotel Wieden. It was convenient to get to it from there. Wien Hauptbahnhof train station is a 5-minute walk away.

By the way, you can also find very good deals in the center. Mostly they are from “private traders” - people running their own micro-businesses. As a rule, this is not a hotel, but a room in a local resident’s apartment or a separate room in a house.

There are such offers on the service AirBnb, which we have been using often lately and have not yet encountered any drawbacks. We find options cheaper than hotels. For example, in Vienna there are offers for 35-40 € for an apartment with a full kitchen. Agree this is better than a hotel room. The amount of accommodation is divided into two - this is also profitable. You don’t have to change your daily routine (to be on time for breakfast). And we buy food in the store, and for breakfast we eat the same fruits, scrambled eggs, coffee, cheese, only much cheaper than at the hotel. Having your own kitchen is a convenient solution for people with stomach diseases and digestive disorders - you can eat familiar food, carefully adding something new to your diet.

Friends, we are now on Telegram: our channel about Europe, our channel about Asia. Welcome)

How much does food cost

If you are in Austria, be sure to try the national cuisine. And this is a huge selection of pies - the most famous apple pie Strudel, delicious types of stewed meat and fish, potato casseroles, dumplings and much more. We especially recommend trying the famous Wiener Schnitzel. For drinks, we recommend trying Austrian wines - there are a lot of them in the country and they are varied in taste.

Austrian coffee shops. In our opinion, they are a must-see. Drinking one of the 30 types of coffee with Viennese strudel is not to be missed.

Trying all these delights of national cuisine in a restaurant will not be cheap for a Russian tourist today. The euro is not getting cheaper, unfortunately.

The portion in a restaurant is usually large (not like in Moscow), they serve, as they say, “from the heart,” so you can take one main course for two. If we took 2 servings out of greed, we asked to take it with us. This is fine. Anything you can’t handle will be neatly put in a plastic bag.

As an example, I consider the cost of dinner for two in a restaurant:

• Side dish: potato salad – 5-6 €. They bring a large dish. You can absolutely calmly ask for another clean plate and utensils to be brought to you so that you can divide one large portion into two plates.
• Main course: Wiener schnitzel – 12-15 € (as I wrote above, you can take a portion for two).
• Dessert: strudel – 5 €.
• Coffee 5-7 €.
• Austrian wine - 2-3 € per glass of 150 ml, champagne is more expensive - about 4.5 €.

The result is 36 € for two. But it seems to me that Alla and I would not be able to cope with all this in one dinner. Usually they took less. It came out to about 20-25 € for two.

We didn't go to restaurants every day. We usually had breakfast at the hotel, and for lunch we snacked on a burger or Vienna sausages on the street. It came out to about 5 €.

In Graz we rented a room in an apartment. We had a kitchen. We went to the store and bought groceries there. It turned out, of course, much cheaper than restaurant prices.

Stores in Austria are open from 9.00 to 18.00 (18.30). On Saturdays, stores close an hour earlier.

Important: On Sunday, grocery stores are usually closed. Therefore, take care of breakfast in the evening or go to the station.

At the stations, shops are open daily from 7 to 22:30.

How much do excursions cost?

Combination tickets are popular in Austria. With this ticket you can see several attractions at once. For example, on the territory of Schönbrunn Palace there are about 12 attractions. At the box office you can purchase a ticket for each of them, or a combined one. The second option is usually cheaper.

Examples of prices for attractions:

Vienna Zoo– 20 euros
Amusement park Prater – 7 euros
Combined ticket to the Belvedere (lower and upper, Winter Palace, orangery, 21 houses) – 31 euros
Mozart's House in Vienna - 10 euros
in Graz – 11.50 euros. Buy a day ticket to the Joanneum Museum for 13 euros. It gives you the right to visit all parts of the museum within 24 hours
Hohenwerfen Castle – 11 euros.

If you want to get to know Austria better and learn its history, we recommend taking unusual excursions from local residents.

Better yet, buy a Vienna Card. This is a travel card and a discount card at the same time. Invented specifically for tourists. With it you can buy entrance tickets to the museum, castle, and other attractions at a discount. Plus using public transport is free.

Detailed budget for our trip

We were in Austria for 8 days. This country was only part of our trip to Europe. During the 27 days of the trip we visited 4 countries: Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, Liechtenstein. A detailed budget report is written in .

Budget for a trip to Austria for two (all prices are for two):

Vienna – (3 nights) = 138 €
Graz – (2 nights) = 68 €
Salzburg – (3 nights) = 165 €

Tickets were purchased through the Austrian railway website in advance (3-3.5 weeks in advance), so they were eligible for discounts and promotions. On the day of the trip they already cost 2 times more.

Vienna – Graz = 28 €
Graz – Salzburg= 38 €
Salzburg – Zurich= 158 €

In Vienna and Salzburg we bought a tourist map of the cities for 3 days. In Vienna Vienna Card 20 €, in Salzburg Zalzburg Card 31 €. With these cards when visiting museums, etc. The savings were considerable. In Vienna one and a half times, in Salzburg 2 times.

Total: for two people for 8 days including everything except trains booked and purchased in advance (accommodation, food, maps, etc.) it came out to 708.23 €. 708.23 € + trains 224 € = 932 €.

Those. per person - 466 €.

Conclusions:

1. Traveling to Austria is quite expensive
2. The “average rate of stay” per day meets the visa requirements (50 – 65 euros per day).
3. We walked around the cities all day and saw quite a lot of sights, ate reasonably (we didn’t skimp on food, we didn’t dine in expensive restaurants).
4. If you are focused on walking around the city (without sightseeing), then the trip will be cheaper.
5. If you are not planning on moving to different cities, you will deduct the cost of train expenses from our final cost amount.

Sincerely,