Cold camp Krasnaya Polyana. Bzerpinsky Cornice, Krasnaya Polyana, Sochi, Russia - “Bzerpinsky Cornice is one of the best mountain routes in Krasnaya Polyana. Full description of the route: where to go, what to see, how to behave when meeting a bear.” Technical

If you have a choice of where to go - to the sea or to the mountains, feel free to choose the mountains. Because mountains are the best natural creation and phenomenon. The mountains captivate with their beauty, grandeur, tranquility and power. If by the will of fate or thanks to a crazy desire you find yourself at Krasnaya Polyana in Sochi, feel free to grab your friends, backpack, sneakers and conquer one of the most beautiful and picturesque mountain routes - .

The Bzerpinsky cornice is so named because of the name of the river - Bzerb and the steep cliff (cornice), next to which the Bzerpinsky cornice is located.

So, if you have a desire to visit the Bzerpinsky cornice, there is an active company (I would not advise one person to go, since nature is unpredictable), good sneakers and a backpack, the first thing choose a suitable date. The route is accessible to ordinary tourists from mid-June to late October. That is, in those months when the snow has already melted and has not yet fallen.

The route to the Bzerpinsky Cornice is located in the Caucasus State Natural Biosphere Reserve. This is a safe and easily accessible route that even children can handle. Along the entire route there are signs telling you where to go and how far it is to the desired object. The paths are all neatly trodden. Elevation differences - from 1600 to 2014 meters. The total distance that needs to be walked to the Cornice and back is more than 10 km.

The route consists of points: Cable car "Alpika-Service" (560 m above sea level) - Shelter "Pikhtovy" (1600 m) - Mountain "Bear Gate" (1900 m) - Mount Tabunaya - Bzerpinsky cornice (2014 m) - Pass “Pseashkho” - Camp “Cold” and back.

WHERE TO START A HIKE TO THE BZERPA CORNICE?

• 1. Decide in advance on the date of your hike and the weather. You can't go in the rain - it's dangerous. On weekdays the route is empty, on weekends there are people walking along the route. Personally, for me, it’s more pleasant and safer to walk on weekends, since the people around instill confidence that you are going in the right direction)) By the way, this is one of the ways to avoid encounters with wild animals.
• 2. After determining the date, calculate the time before boarding the cable car. The cable car operates from 9.00 to 16.30. That is, it is during this time that you need to go through the entire route and have time to return back. If you do not have time to do this, the cable car stops, and you will have to wait until the next morning, spending the night either in the forest or on the Bzerpinsky cornice in a tent.

Be sure to purchase tickets before going to the Caucasus Nature Reserve to complete the route. A reserve is a specially protected area that is monitored and cared for, and the maintenance of which requires funds. Anyone who understands this buys tickets without question. This is done either in advance or on the day of the trip. Aviary reserve. It is located in the same place, in Krasnaya Polyana, not far from the Gazprom State Transport Center. Ticket price is 300 rubles per person.

You can get to the Aviary Reserve on foot or by taxi; public transport does not go there. We always walked, it takes about 40 minutes in both directions.

If you really like to take risks, then you can go to the Bzerpinsky cornice without buying tickets. No one will ask you about them before boarding the cable car, BUT! you may be sent back halfway through the journey. Along the entire route there are rangers on horseback who check the tickets of all tourists. And if you come across a huntsman, be prepared to pay a fine of 5,000 rubles for visiting the Caucasus Nature Reserve without permission and go home. It is the sending home that is most offensive, since you have already covered a huge distance on foot, but you still haven’t reached your goal... We met such people in large numbers, and they were all upset. However, we also met other people along the route who did not spend money on tickets and calmly reached the desired point on the route and back without any trouble.

• 3. In order not to waste precious time, You need to board the cable car immediately after it opens.The Alpika-Service cable car is open from 09.00 to 16.30. Therefore, at 09.01 you should already be going up. The route starts at an altitude of 560 meters above sea level. The cost of cable car services in 2017 is 900 rubles/adult, 500 rubles/child. If you plan to go without an overnight stay, buy sightseeing tour “Pikhtovaya Polyana”, Returned on the day of purchase. If with an overnight stay - That "Piktovaya Polyana - Pokhodny" with exact dates of ascent and descent.

• 4. From Pikhtovaya Polyana The hike to the Bear Gate mountain begins. This is the most difficult and uninteresting section, after which many, especially girls, give up and go back. He is not interesting because you have to constantly rise up, no plains, only upwards. All around there is a continuous forest, mushrooms, trees, beetles. That is, nothing special at all.

When I climbed for the first time, I didn’t know what awaited me ahead. I just wanted to come somewhere and relax! You need to climb 300 meters in height, and the length is about 2000 meters. The climb took me 1.5 hours - this included constant stops to rest. For experienced tourists, the climb takes an average of 20-45 minutes. The main thing during the climb is not to give up! Remember that the fun will begin next.

• 5. Having reached the plain, I found myself at the top of the Bear Gate.

The peak is so named because this area resembles a gate separating the forest and mountain ranges. Well, as experienced tourists said, bears often walk here)

The first halt is located at this point. There are tables, benches, beautiful views. People sit here for hours, drinking and eating the supplies they brought with them.

When I saw all this, it seemed to me that I had reached zen and it couldn’t be better.

I advise you not to linger at the Bear Gate, drink some water and move forward.

And this is where the most amazing views begin! Cliffs, alpine grasses, mountain ranges, sounds of mountain streams.

I want to inhale and touch all this! Every hundred meters I stopped to take photographs.

So you need to walk another 2300 meters.

• 7. And so Tiny houses begin to be seen in the distance. The cornice is near!

Here, when it’s still a 15-minute walk to the Cornice, there are huge cobblestones on which everyone takes pictures. I couldn’t pass by either)

On the eaves there are small wooden houses, tables, benches, signs, gazebos, toilets, and a tent camp.

There are always people here.

You can talk to them and ask them about anything you are interested in.

Tents and houses can be rented for the night: everything is like at the resorts. Prices start from 1,500 rubles per tent; gas burners and warm blankets are also available for rent. I didn’t specify about food and water, but the clean Bzerb River flows nearby, meaning you definitely won’t be left without water.

Average, it takes 3 hours to get to the cornice from the Pikhtovoy Shelter. This is exactly the time that is enough to return and successfully descend on the cable car.

I really wanted to see the mountain lakes, so we decided to go a little further. After another 2000 meters there should have been the first mountain lake - Maloe. That's where I hurried. And for good reason! There is flat terrain, so this section is covered much faster.

There is indescribable beauty all around! Mountain peaks, fragrant herbs, sunbeams...

I want to live there!

On the way, we met one that appeared there in memory of the terrible war years of the Great Patriotic War. It was in this mountainous area that fierce battles took place between our soldiers and the fascist paratroopers who landed in the mountains to pass from the rear.

About 200 defenders of the Caucasus died there... Correct me if anyone knows more accurate information.

The Pslukh River, one of the tributaries of the Mzymta, flowed nearby. We heard her, but didn't see her.

And then it appears before us - a mountain lake with clear water! It is no more than 25 meters in diameter, I don’t know its depth, but near the shore the depth was very small.

The lake is icy, but I was hoping to swim) And all around are mountains...

It was here that we made a stop, having a snack with our modest supplies and admiring the beauty to our heart's content. While we were sitting in silence, we heard animal screams. Either “beep” from mountain goats, or “beep” from brown bear cubs. It became scary. There was no one in sight, but we didn't want to take any chances. We packed up and went back...

Last year there was just an activation of bears in Krasnaya Polyana, and before the hike I read a lot, how to behave when meeting a bear. Firstly, clubfooted people are as afraid of us as we are of them. If a bear appears far into view, Make loud noises to scare Misha away: whistle, clap your hands, bang pots and bottles. Secondly, a bear is an unpredictable animal, so it is impossible to predict what it will do next. Don't scream or run. But if Misha greets you from behind, then I won’t even advise you anything. In general, the main thing is to remain calm and control the situation, and change diapers after meeting him.

CAMP “COLD”

If we had more time, we could go even further - to the Kholodny camp... See even more lakes and even larger ones... But the cable car would not have waited for us. This thought that there is even more to see haunts me. And I will definitely return there again with an overnight stay so that I have time to see everything))

We returned just as the cable car closed. We made it)

WHAT TO BRING FOR A DAY HIKE IN THE MOUNTAINS?

Essentials: trekking poles(with them it is much more convenient to go up and down the mountains), water in large quantities, light snack food, camera, phone, warm jacket, raincoat, sunglasses, sunscreen, wet and dry wipes, swimsuit(if you want to swim in the lakes), passport, ticket, route map(given when purchasing a ticket for the cable car), money(if you don’t make it to the cable car, you will need to look for a place to spend the night). Some take rugs for sitting, tents, and burners, but we only went for a day.

FEATURES OF THE HIKE TO THE BZERPA CORNICE

FEATURE #1

The Bzerpinsky cornice is most often used by experienced tourists as transhipment point, not the end point of the route. Having reached the Bzerpinsky cornice, you understand that if you go further, there will be even more beautiful views and even more unprecedented beauties. Further - higher mountains, further - the route is more interesting, further - mountain lakes... And so on.

Therefore, most tourists set a goal walk to the Kholodny camp, see the lake valley of Dzitaku and much more. Such routes without an overnight stay are impossible. The distance along the chosen route can be more than 50 km in both directions. In addition, you can go right - towards Mount Kogot, or you can go left - towards the lakes. And I want to see everything!

FEATURE #2

Along the entire route, ABSOLUTELY ALL tourists greeted us. This is simply something incredible! Everyone is very friendly and understanding, happy to share information about how far we still have to go and what lies ahead. It was the first time I encountered such hospitality and warmth from complete strangers. There, in the mountains, there is its own party and its own atmosphere)

FEATURE #3

Because of the rangers, there is, excuse me, horse poop all over the route. They have a specific smell and are of considerable size. And so on every 50 meters. Therefore, the main thing on the way to the Cornice is not to leave the trails and watch your step)

FEATURE #4

YOU NEED TO CLEAN UP AFTER YOURSELF! How frustrating it was that even there, in the mountains, there were bulls and empty plastic bottles and packaging from eaten cookies lying around. Nothing can defeat human pig nature...

I recommend to anyone who is still wondering why to go to Sochi and what to do there, to come to this wonderful place and be sure to follow the route to the Bzerpinsky cornice.

My other reviews about Krasnaya Polyana:

Thanks to everyone who read this long review about my trip to the cornice. Ask questions in the comments, I will be happy to answer them.

Day 1.

The hike through the Dzitaku valley (Semiozerye) to the Kholodny camp begins at the Alpika-Service ski resort or at the Laura mountain tourist center. We rise to the Pikhtovaya Polyana station (1650 above sea level). A slight descent and we are on the path to the Bzerpinsky cornice, through which we will continue our path to the Dzitaku valley (Semiozerye). The first part of the path leads through a fir forest along the ridge to the Bear Gate pass. Three hundred meters of climb and we are on the border with the subalpine zone. Here, mighty fir trees give way to small forests and crooked forests. From the pass there are views of the Bzerpi peak, the city of Aishkha, the highest point of the city of Sochi - the city of Agepsta, the Aibga Ridge, the city of Achishkho and the city of Chugush. We take pictures, relax and move further along the slopes of Mount Tabbunaya South. By lunchtime we reach the first goal of our journey - the Bzerpinsky cornice. From here you can see the valley of the Bzerp and Mzymta rivers in one direction, and the Pseashkho valley, Dzitaku and Buryanistaya peaks in the other. We take pictures again, have lunch and move on. The next part of the route is quite simple, we will no longer gain height, but will lose it, moving down the valley. On the way, the valley of the Pslukh River, the city of Agepsta and the Pseashkho ridge with the peaks of Kozhevnikov, Sugar Pseashkho, Western and Southern Pseashkho will appear in front of us in all its glory. After an hour and a half we reach the Dzitaku valley (Semiozerye). We swim in crystal clear water and move to our final point for today - Kholodny camp. By evening we reach the place. After dinner, before going to bed, we watch the billion stars in the night sky.

Day 2.

After breakfast we go to the Kholodny glacier. We move along the Kholodnaya River, crossing small streams. As you climb, the views of the valley change. There are views of the slopes of Mramornaya Mountain, where the most eagle-eyed will be able to spot wild animals. If you turn back in the direction of travel, you can see the stunning Mount Jitaku, with waterfalls cascading down its slopes. We traditionally take pictures (don’t forget to charge our smartphones and cameras), rest and begin our descent. We return to the camp, pack up the tents, have lunch and leave the Kholodny camp to the Bzerpinsky cornice. The trail is already familiar to us, only now we will walk with a smooth climb. In the middle of the journey we make a stop at Lake Maloye for a swim. An hour later we reach the Bzerpinsky cornice, where we will spend the night. While the guide prepares dinner, the group relaxes on the ledge or spends the sunset remembering the cool waters of the Dzitaku (Semiozerye) lakes.

Day 3.

After breakfast, exit to Bzerp peak, through the slopes of Mount Tabunaya. We leave our backpacks at the fork and move on lightly. On the left, as you move, from behind the slopes of Mount Tabunnaya Severnaya, the peaks of the Pseashkho ridge rise up. We slowly reach the top of Bzerp peak. We see panoramic views of: Resorts Rosa Khutor, Albina-Service, Gorki Gorod, GLC Gazprom. On one side there is civilization, on the other there are wild mountains. Having documented the views in your smartphone, camera or head, we go down to the plateau, pick up our backpacks and make a short climb to Mount Tabunaya Yuzhnaya (literally 20 meters in height). We walk along the ridge, from which there is a view of Achishkho, the mighty Chugush and a small camp on the Bzerpinsky cornice. We begin the descent to the Bear Gate pass and then, along the already familiar path, through the forest we go down to the cable car.

1st day:

• Ascent to the cornice of the Bzerpi River (height 2000 m) (cable car + on foot), accommodation in the camp, 2 hours rest, lunch.
• 14:00 ascent to Mount Perevalnaya, Yuzhnaya Peak.
• 16:00 descent to camp, rest, tea.
• 17:30-20:00 sightseeing tour of the valley of the Pseashkho mountain range. Horizons to the peaks of Sugar Pseashkho, the glacier of the Pslukh River, entry to Lake Maloye, swimming in a mountain lake, if desired. Return to camp.

Day 2:

• 07:00 leaving the Bzerpi camp, walking along the trail to the Dzitaku lake valley, overview of the valley and seven lakes, swimming.
• 11:00 return to the trail to the Kholodny camp.
• 12:00-13:00 accommodation at the camp, rest.
• 15:00 radial exit (hiking from the camp without backpacks) under the Kholodny glacier, vaucluse (exit of the underground river to the outside), the valley of the Kholodnaya river, access to the lower part of the glacier, with shoes and the necessary physical exercise. preparation (ropeless passage of rocks, crossing a moraine, access to the lower part of the glacier, group of no more than 3 people). Return to camp, rest.

• 07:00 departure from the camp, return to the Bzerpi camp.
• 10:00-14:00 rest.
• 14:00 descent to the cable car. Krasnaya Polyana and home.

For you

Yoga and a lot of walking will bring us physical and spiritual pleasure. And to work through the emotional part of our self, we included work with a transpersonal trainer in the program. Personal growth training “On the Edge of the Possible” allows you to take a break from routine, look at yourself, your family, and your work from a different perspective. See the prospects of today, solve the problems of yesterday, fill tomorrow with luck, happiness and wisdom.

In the training program:

• Creation of individual good luck talismans;
• Drawing Mandalas;
• Formation of a positive picture of the world through working with visual images;
• Working with internal resources;
• Ways to achieve goals (“Walt Disney’s Creative Strategy”).

More about the area

Krasnaya Polyana has long been considered the most beautiful place in the Caucasus. The mountain peaks of Aigba and Achishkho in the south and north rival the grandeur of the view of the Main Caucasus Range. The highest points around Krasnaya Polyana go up to 3000 meters. Mountain slopes completely covered with snow from November to March, the proximity of the sky, the crystal fast Mzymta - all this creates the impression of crystal clear clarity.

Pseashkho (Pseashkha) is a mountain range in the Western Caucasus, 20 km from the village of Krasnaya Polyana, in the upper reaches of the rivers Urushten, Malaya Laba, Pslukh, on the territory of the Caucasian Natural Biosphere Reserve. Belongs to the Main Caucasus Range.

The toponym “Pseashkho” is translated from Adyghe as “high-water mountain,” apparently due to the fact that several rivers fed by glaciers originate on the slopes of the massif.

The Pseashkho massif is limited on the west by a trough valley with the Pseashkho pass (2014 m). This valley, about five kilometers long SSW-NNE and about 500 m wide, was carved out by an ancient glacier. The longitudinal slope of the valley is so small that the passage of the Pseashkho pass is imperceptible.

From the southwest, the Pseashkho massif is limited by the valley of the Pslukh river, from the east - by the valleys of the Malaya Laba and Chistaya rivers, from the north - by the valleys of the Kholodnaya and Mramornaya rivers. The southern end of the massif can be considered the Aishkha pass (2401 m), the northern end is the Mramorny pass (about 2800 m).

The Pseashkho massif is a complex mountain unit with ridges of different directions and peaks from 2500 m. The following peaks are distinguished in the main massif: Northern Pseashkho (3256.9 m) - the main peak of the massif; Southern Pseashkho (3251.2 m), Uzlovaya (3196 m), Sugar Pseashkho (Sugar Loaf settlement) (3188.9 m), Western Pseashkho (2899.8 m)

The Pseashkho massif is interesting for its 11 glaciers. The largest of them, the Pseashkho glacier, is the largest glacier in the Krasnodar region. A glacier of the karova-valley type, 3 km long and 1.5 km² in area. To the north of the highest peak of Northern Pseashkho there is the Mramorny glacier, which gives rise to the Mramornaya River. Also on the northern slopes there is the Kholodny glacier, from which the Kholodnaya River flows, flowing a few kilometers later into the Urushten River. A peculiarity of the glaciation of the Pseashkho massif is that the first glaciers of the southern macroslope of the Greater Caucasus appear here from the west. Over the past decades, the area of ​​glaciers has been decreasing.

The Dzitaku Ridge is the territory of the Caucasus State Biosphere Reserve. The Jitaku Valley is a pass type, that is, the Main Dividing Range passes here along the bottom of the valley. Five lakes, located at an altitude of 1900 meters above sea level, are located close to each other and attract with their purity and beauty. The most significant lake is Bolshoye, with an area of ​​20,000 m² and a maximum depth of up to 10 m. The phenomenon of another lake, Two-Faced, is that the flow from it is carried out both on the northern slope and on the southern slope, that is, in the basins of the Urushtena and Laura rivers. This is a very rare occurrence. The Jitaku ridge rises above the valley from the west. Translated from Abkhazian, Dzitaku means “waterless hill.” The peak of Dzitaku is 2819 m. It offers a panoramic view of the Northern (3257 m) and Southern (3251 m) peaks of the Pseashkho massif, the Kholodny glacier and the valley of the river of the same name, the valley of the Urushten, Chugush and Achishkho, Aibga rivers.

The Kholodny glacier is located on the northern slopes of the Pseashkho ridge. Area 0.5 km² The Kholodnaya River flows from it, flowing into the Urushten River.

What do we do

From morning until late at night we will walk and enjoy the unique views, breathe crystal clean air and live to the fullest. The practice of yoga in the midst of all this greatness, under the very sky, will help us absorb the unbridled energy of mountain rivers, the silence of mountain lakes and the power of mountains. The only things better than mountains are mountains...

Copied from the site "Self-knowledge.ru"

In the upper reaches of the Urushten River there is one of the cordons of the Caucasian Nature Reserve - Camp Kholodny. This place is named so not by chance. Near the camp, the Kholodnaya River, which takes its sources on the Kholodny glacier, flows into Urushten.

The icy breath of the glacier brings coolness to the inhabited clearing in the summer, a chilling wind in the fall and spring, and a bitter cold in the winter.

Camp Kholodny is a legendary place. Located at the junction of two river valleys: Urushten and Kholodnaya, during the Great War of Medicine it became the site of fierce battles with the hated fascist invaders. It was here that the fighters of the 20th Mountain Rifle Division defended the approaches to Krasnaya Polyana and defended the hospital at the cost of their lives.

Their feat is announced to those who came to the Kholodnaya River valley by a memorial stele installed here in the last years of Soviet power. The stella is regularly watched by members of military-patriotic organizations of the city of Sochi and city tourist clubs.

Camp Kholodny has enjoyed deserved popularity among tourists in recent years. A number of improvements and transformations have made Kholodny a convenient holiday destination for tourists, and active advertising in recent years has attracted tourists here from all over our Motherland.

What makes Kholodny camp convenient for tourists?

• There is a good, well-maintained trail leading to the camp.
• basic amenities are provided here: a toilet is equipped, a wooden two-story alpine house is built
• A ranger service is constantly on duty here, monitoring order and compliance with the reserve regime.
• near the camp there is a spring with very tasty water
• From here there are several radial routes to the natural attractions of the Caucasus Nature Reserve

Radial routes from Kholodny camp

- the official route of the Caucasus Nature Reserve. There is a path leading up the Kholodnaya River on the left side. It rises up the valley and ends near a beautiful rift. If you are brave enough, you can walk along the stones to the Kholodny glacier itself and walk along its tongue. It’s cold here even on the hottest day, white waves of fog flow over the body of the glacier, carrying with them the dank dampness of ancient ice.

To climb stone steps and walk along the glacier, and even more so to go down into the valley, it is advisable to have good trekking shoes that support the ankle.

— the route to the lake valley of Jitaku will not leave you indifferent. Here, in a bosom of lush alpine vegetation, rest the bowls of blue lakes with their beauty, attracting thousands of fans of active recreation. In fame and beauty they compete in some way with - pearl of the Caucasus Nature Reserve.

Canyon of the Urushten River— if you go downstream of the Urushten River, then literally 1 (one) kilometer from Kholodny’s camp there is a beautiful canyon. The Urushten River has washed through the soft calcareous rocks and is breaking through the narrow throat of the gorge. Wild gray stones are washed by the bubbling stream of a stormy river. The beauty of the Urushtena Canyon competes with, but being located in the very heart of the Caucasus Nature Reserve, it is rarely visited and little studied.

Valley of the Kholodnaya River— rising to the upper reaches of the Kholodnaya River on the right side of the valley, you come to the Mramorny glacier. There is a convenient climb to the Mramorny pass, which offers a beautiful view of the valley of the Chistaya River and the peaks of the Chilipsinsky mountain cluster and the Pseashkho ridge.

The idea of ​​skiing in the mountains in winter is quite obvious to any tourist. There is even a type of tourism - “ski tourism”. Our fathers and grandfathers, and great-grandfathers too, walked in the mountains in winter. Recently, in the Western style, this sport has been called “ski touring”.

I'm not a big ski touring expert (I've only gone six or seven times), but I really like this sport! If you do everything correctly, then you can go on skis, in winter, in the mountains, on very beautiful hikes and at the same time, thanks to modern equipment, without spending a lot of effort. From personal experience, covering the same route on a ski tour is twice or even three times faster than, for example, on snowshoes. The secret is simple - unlike snowshoeing, when walking on a ski touring, as on any skis, you do not need to raise your feet, you can simply move them with slipping. And, secondly, and this is a special charm - on the slope you can ski (!!), and not walk in the case of snowshoes.

Slowly but surely I am moving towards my dream - to go real mountain hiking in the winter mountains. In the spring of 2012, I went on two short one-day ski touring trips in the vicinity of Krasnaya Polyana - to the Khmelevsky Lakes and from Medoveevka to Krasnaya Polyana, and last winter my friends and I made an outing to the Adylsu gorge (Elbrus region), where we tried real ski mountaineering! In short, I was ready for my first overnight trip in the vicinity of Krasnaya Polyana.

Max Kirin volunteered as a partner for this trip. Or did I volunteer to be his partner? :))

Having predicted a couple of days of good spring weather and having previously agreed on the route with the administration of the reserve (we are going on a mission - checking the walkability and timing of this route for ski tourists), we set off!

Day one: Pikhtovy Shelter - Kholodny Camp

It’s good to still be able to go to the mountains “under the forecast”! Yesterday’s weather forecast did not disappoint, and the morning greeted us with bright sun and a temperature of +12 already at 9 am.

The connection to the operating time of the cable car is perhaps the main disadvantage of this route. I would like to start ski touring with the first rays of the sun, at 6-7 am, but Gazprom cable cars start operating only at 9 am.. I have to lose two of the most beautiful morning hours, but there are no other options..

At the Alpika-Service cable car station, located directly next to the railway station, we board a large trailer, which immediately takes us to a height of 1600 meters without a change. The upper station of the cable car is called “Pikhtovy Shelter”. This is where our hike begins.

As in the summer, you can go up from here in two alternative ways: along a path that goes directly along the forest ridge of the spur of Mount Tabunaya or along a dirt road. Both routes converge at Bear Gate, the point where the forest ends on the ridge. The first option (along the trail) is shorter, the second (along the road) is a little longer, but flatter. The first option is more interesting for snowshoes, the second is more logical for skis. We chose the second option.

Having glued the skin to the skis, we begin the ascent. The road goes through the forest, after half an hour coming out to clearings with sparse trees and houses. Here you need to turn off the road, which further traverses the slope, and turn sharply to the left and up. Finding this turn here and our new road covered with snow is almost impossible. We go from memory, approximately the same way we went in the summer.

The first meters of the journey

The last few hundred meters the road leaves the forest into an area of ​​alpine meadows, traversing the southern slope of Mount Tabunaya. In case of increased avalanche danger, this is a bad option for climbing the Bear Gate and it is better to follow the forest path along the ridge. But in our case, there was no snowfall for more than 10 days, and there was practically no snow left on the southern slope.

We go out to the benches at the Bear Gate. According to Max, not long ago they were completely covered in snow, but now the spring sun has melted the snow and the resting place can be seen from afar! We spend half an hour on a light snack - tea, halva, some nuts.

This is an important point! If in summer you can go from here to the Bzerpinsky cornice in two ways, then in winter the main, equipped, “lower” path is completely covered with snow and is not passable. Moreover, this trail passes through a steep rocky area. If you fall off on it, you will fly three hundred meters into an impassable canyon. In addition, the trail goes as a traverse, greatly cutting the slope, which provokes avalanches. In general, they don’t go like this in winter.

We choose the “correct” winter option - a path that goes up the ridge towards the top of Mount Tabunaya directly from the benches at the Bear Gate. It is interesting that if in summer the lower part of this path goes among thickets of rhododendron, now all the vegetation is covered with a thick layer of snow.

At the top, the slope is quite steep, so we gain height by zig-zag. You have to constantly change the direction of movement by sharply turning your skis. It's quite a tedious story if you don't get used to it. With this style of lifting, the camus should have a width that corresponds as closely as possible to the width of the ski, because when moving with a traverse on a steep slope, the ski touches the slope only at the very edge and if there is no camus in this edge zone, the ski will slip and slide down. At the top of the ridge, where the slope becomes too steep, we decide to take off our skis and walk the last meters of the ridge. It's faster and more logical.

Hooray! We went to Tabunnaya! For today it's just down!

We approach the northeastern slope. I call this place “Herd View”, since it is from here that a fantastic view opens up, for which many people like to climb to this peak.

Directly ahead, in the east, in a beautiful regular pyramid, rises Sugar Pseashkho (3189 m). Now, in winter, I can’t even believe that in summer, with good weather, climbing Sugar Pseashkho does not present any technical difficulties and is feasible for any physically strong tourist-pedestrian. The direction from which we came offers the best view of Krasnaya Polyana and the ski slopes of the resort. To the right, in the northwest, one can see the pre-summit glacier of another three-thousand-meter peak in the vicinity of Krasnaya Polyana - Mount Chugush. And finally, a view to the northeast - the beautiful valley of the Pseashkho pass, from the northern slopes of which the Urushten River originates. This is where we should go down today, but first we need to go down to the houses on the Bzerpinsky cornice...

I'm at the top of Tabunnaya. Photo: (c) Max Kirin

To gain time and at the same time have a ride, we decide to go down one of the small couloirs on the eastern slope. Going around, using the “summer” option, through the main peak of Tabunnaya, takes a long time and is not interesting. The main thing at the start of the descent is not to collapse the snow cornices that have formed here due to frequent south-west winds. In track number 2 (edited, the link to the track is at the end of the story) the route still goes along a long path.

The descent was not great, but positive! Just 10 minutes later we were already at the houses on the Bzerpinsky cornice. Skis have again proven their effectiveness - the descent is three times faster than on foot in the summer;)

Descent along the northeastern slope of Mount Tabunaya. Photo: (c) Max Kirin

We have a snack in one of the houses (no people, silence and bright sun all around) and go out in the direction of the Pseashkho pass. Once again today we choose a path different from the summer one. In order not to traverse the sun-heated southern slope of Mount Tabunaya, we simply roll straight along the bed of the stream, covered with snow. Cool! Unusual skating. And very beautiful.

Play of light and shadow. Halt at the Pseashkho pass

In just 40 minutes (15 minutes of which were spent stopping for photography) we reach the wide and flat saddle of the Pseashkho pass (2014 m), and, without stopping, following further to the northeast, in 20 minutes we reach a small booth in the form of a gable canopy with benches. Here you can wait out the sharply worsening weather, but the place is not suitable for spending the night. Having discussed the options, we decide that today we will drive directly to Kholodnoye, and we will stop by Lake Dzitaku tomorrow, on the way back.

In less than an hour, delicately maneuvering between the tops of dwarf birch thickets (most of the height of the trees is covered under snow), we descend to the bridge over the Kholodnaya River. Somewhere on the opposite bank, in a small clearing above the river, there should be houses of the Kholodny camp. We cross the bridge, hugging our skis (I was still waiting for some kind of incident!) and here we are!

Valley of the Urushten River in front of the Kholodny camp

The new booths and the huntsman's house are empty. The house for tourists is excellent - the same format as on the Bzerpinsky cornice. It has two floors and can easily accommodate 15-20 tourists spending the night at the same time. We are staying in the huntsman's house, as it has a stove! In the summer, such a chance is unlikely to arise - in the summer, from June to October, when the reserve is open to tourists, it is always crowded here, and the ranger keeps order.

In between leaving the house for another portion of the snow-white reserve snow to make tea and soup, we photograph the northwestern wall of the Pseashkho massif, basking in the last rays of the setting sun. A beautiful end to a great hiking day!

PS At night it was about -5 outside, and in our flooded house it was about +5+10. We slept like the dead. I had a funny dream about time shares :)) This is truly a “miner”! Although the height is ridiculous, only 1700 meters above sea level.

IMPORTANT! Dear tourists! If you, like us, are lucky enough to spend the night in this house, remember that this house is the result of a huge effort by a number of people. Please treat the house with love and respect and it will respond to you with warmth and reliable protection in bad weather. You just need to do nothing: 1) take all the garbage with you, 2) when leaving, close the door tightly so that a bear doesn’t get in and snow doesn’t accumulate. 3) in the house you will probably find supplies of food (crackers, cookies, tea). Try not to waste them. Perhaps someday they will save someone's life!

Timing of the day:

9:10 - boarding the cable car
9:35 - Shelter Pikhtovy station
9:50 - put on the jacket, start to climb
11:00-11:30 - halt at the "Bear Gate"
12:30 - Herd show
13:10-14:40 - lunch in the houses on the Bzerpinsky cornice
15:20 - saddle of the Pseashkho pass
15:40-16:00 - stop at the booths with the sign “South Pole, North Pole, ...”
16:50 - the camp is cold

#Conclusion of the day: SKI TOURING IS FUCK!!! Sparkling snow, warm sun, ringing silence and you can ROLL DOWN!!!

#Moral of the day: I understand why ski touring is so expensive! Because if ordinary alpine skiing is a thrill, and ordinary hiking is a beauty, then ski touring is a thrill of beauty!! And for such a double thrill, you have to pay higher rates :))

Day two: Kholodny camp - Krasnaya Polyana

Having slept well and had a hearty breakfast, we head out into the street. The sun rose more than two hours ago, and it’s warm and sunny outside! I don’t even want to leave, but I have to. At 9:45 am we head back.

From the very beginning we are developing truly cosmic speed, despite the fact that we are going uphill! The combination of above-zero temperatures during the day and below-zero temperatures at night forms an excellent dense crust on the surface of the snow cover, called crust. This very crust is hated by freeriders (who likes to ski on the crust?), but tourists-skiers adore it - no need to trail!! Having estimated the speed of movement and the route for today, we decide to take a radial route - go into the side valley and see what the Jitaku lakes look like in winter.

We spent about an hour of extra time on this “hook”. There is white silence all around. Complete silence. Even the usual omnipresent wind in the mountains died down. The sun is hot as if you were stuck in a microwave. I think that in these two days we received as much sun vitamin D as the average Muscovite in a year;)) It’s good that they didn’t forget the cream this time. Without it, by lunchtime, we could have been served like a roast dinner for reserved bears;)))

Conclusion about the Jitaku lakes: there is nothing to do here in winter - all the lakes are hidden under a thick layer of snow (more than 3 meters now, in mid-March), and this is not yet a good snow season for you..

Urushten River

Having filmed a bunch of cool videos (I hope to post them someday), by 12 noon we retrace our steps from yesterday before the Pseashkho Pass. Taking off our skis and sitting on a bench, we eat nuts, finishing them off with chocolate. It’s a pity they didn’t boil the tea in the morning! We wash it down with just water that we boiled the night before.

By lunchtime we go out to the good old Bzerpinsky cornice. I was surprised by the fact that given the current state of the snow (excellent crust, skis sink a maximum of a couple of centimeters), it is easier and faster to follow a parallel course rather than in the footsteps of your partner. And so they went for half a day - not one after another, but in parallel courses;)

Lunch in the house lasted for an hour and a half. It’s all because of the large reserves of delicious food, which I really didn’t want to take upstairs to Tabunnaya ;))

Looking at the clock (the time was exactly three o’clock in the afternoon!) I was afraid that we would be late for the cable car. This is not a funny thing. We already messed up like this once in the Alps, during acclimatization before climbing Mont Blanc. This then added a good three hours of walking down the boring road. Fortunately, Max reminded me that in winter the Gazprom cable car is open until six and we still have three whole hours of time!

Coming out of the houses, we look at the circus of Mount Tabunnaya. We estimate the avalanche danger by eye (ATTENTION! It’s better not to do this!!) as low and decide that we will not climb Tabunnaya using the long-distance option through the saddle, but straight ahead, almost along the path of yesterday’s descent. We climb first with a long traverse along a barely noticeable shelf, and then along the ridge of one of the small circuses on the north-eastern slope of Tabunnaya.

The tactics did not disappoint. Just half an hour of sports ski touring and uphill and now we are already standing on the plateau-shaped peak of Tabunnaya. We are moose! And these were still stops - in one place the snow began to stick to the camus, I had to stop and clean it off.

IMPORTANT: Despite our success, I advise future ski tourists to still take a detour, along a safer route (indicated in the track). You'll lose a little time, no more than an hour, but you'll add significant security!

Once again checking the clock, we realize that there is plenty of time. There are still 2.5 hours before the cable car closes, and now we only have to go down! There is time to throw your backpacks into the snow, sit and look at the surrounding slopes and peaks, and come up with ideas for future hikes. The conclusion is simple: there are plenty of options for walking, but don’t cross! We need to climb Perevalnaya and finally go to Bzerpi Peak!

Before starting the descent, I “tune” my “fashionable” ski touring boots: to increase their rigidity (useful on the descent), I insert additional plastic inserts into the tongue area of ​​the boot. The thing really works - the boot becomes significantly stiffer. Subjectively, from 30 to 70 units on the universal boot stiffness scale.

The only freeride section today is the descent from the top of Mount Tabunaya to the road (with a short stop at the Bear Gate) takes just over 10 minutes! In addition to the fun of skating, it’s amazingly effective. Pedestrians and snowshoers would have lost a lot of time on this section alone, not to mention the pleasure of skiing compared to the monotonous walk down!

As Max predicted, at exactly 17:00 we were sitting on the open veranda of the Khmeli-Suneli restaurant, looking at the route of our descent from Tabunna. From here, from the restaurant, the descent line looks cool!

While enjoying a bottle of life-giving beer (“For getting to know each other!”, “For a successful hike!”), we make plans for future joint hikes. The Caucasus is so big that a lifetime would not be enough to go around it all. And that's great!!

Timing of the day:

Get up - 7:30
Exit from Kholodny camp - 9:45
Jitaku Lakes - 11:20
Halt at the booth before the Pseashkho pass - 12:10-12:40
Lunch on the Bzerpinsky cornice - 13:40-15:00
At the top of Tabunaya -15:35-15:55 (we climbed head-on, at a sports pace)
Bear Gate - 16:05-16:10
Shelter Pikhtovy station of the Gazprom cable car - 17:00

Technical photos from the route

The section of the route from Mount Tabunnaya (vidovka) to the Pseashkho pass. Green - descent, red - ascent

Useful information about the hike

UPDATE from 12/02/2016. As of now, the administration of the Caucasus State Biosphere Reserve has begun issuing passes for hiking along this route in the winter season (December-May). It's a good news. The bad thing is that you can ONLY walk WITH GUIDES. Passes are not issued to amateur tourists unaccompanied by guides. The reserve explains this with concern for the safety of tourists. I partially agree with them (avalanches are a serious matter). But on the other hand I don’t agree. We go to other mountains at our own peril and risk, why are the rules different here?

P.S. General information about routes, weather and other nuances of hiking in the outskirts of Sochi, Krasnaya Polyana and the territory of the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve is in my homemade guide to Sochi and Krasnaya Polyana for outdoor enthusiasts and hikers. Read it, I think it will be useful.

conclusions

General conclusions about the route:

• A hike along the route from the top station "Pikhtovy Shelter" of the Gazprom cable car (Krasnaya Polyana) to the Kholodny camp through the Bzerpinsky cornice and the Pseashkho pass - the most beautiful of the most accessible routes for any tourist, passing through the territory of the Caucasus State Nature Reserve. Favorable weather conditions require two days with one overnight stay in tents or a house in the Kholodny camp.
• Unlike most routes in the Caucasus Mountains, this route is unique in that it is, in fact, the first experience of creating a route “for people”. The length of the route one way is about 12 kilometers (24 kilometers round trip). Maximum height - 2300 meters (top of Mount Tabunaya). The route starts at the Priyut Pikhtovy cable car station (Gazprom), altitude 1600 meters. At key points along the trail there are signs and maps of the route, and along the entire trail there are four tourist parking areas with benches, canopies for shelter from bad weather, and even two parking lots with houses. All this not only increases the comfort of hiking, but also safety. In the event of a serious deterioration in the weather, in such houses you can wait out the elements with a sufficient degree of comfort.
• Since the route passes through the territory of the Caucasian State Nature Reserve (site of the reserve), you must obtain a pass to pass it. Pass cost: 200 rubles per person for each day on the route. This can be done at any of the reserve's offices. The route usually opens in mid-June and closes in early November, after the first snowfalls. At this stage, the reserve does not issue passes for hiking in the winter season. We took this route as a test group. Perhaps someday the route will be opened for winter hiking!
• The route is almost autonomous. Cellular communication is available only at the beginning of the route to the top of Mount Tabunaya and at the very edge at the Bzerpirsky cornice. There is no further cell service. Calculate your strength correctly!!

Conclusions on winter trekking (ski touring):

• If completing the route in summer (see my story) does not present any particular difficulties, then the winter option described on this page, like any winter hike in the mountains, places increased demands on the participants of the hike. You need to know and be able to navigate the snowy mountains, independently and correctly choose the line of movement (paths and signs are often under the snow!), and have equipment appropriate to the weather conditions.
• “Pikhtovy Shelter - Kholodny Camp” is a very logical, beautiful, feasible ski touring route for any group. If the weather conditions do not let you down, and the physical fitness of the participants is not below average, 6-8 hours are enough to complete the route one way, taking into account an hour-long lunch stop at the Bzerpinsky cornice. In case of a large amount of fresh snow, the time can increase significantly (up to two times!)
• Ski touring in March has a lot of advantages. If you catch weather with above-zero daytime temperatures but below-zero temperatures at night, it will be crusty in the mountains! Sucks for freeride, but great for ski touring! Firstly, there is no need to trail, which makes movement easier. Secondly, thanks to the crust, you can roll even on a very slight slope, where, with thick snow, you will not only need to walk, but even trail! For example, we skied the entire 4 km section from the Pseasho pass to the Kholodny camp, despite the generally slight slope of the Urushtena valley in this place. And finally, thirdly, in March it is usually warm both at night and during the day, which means you can carry less warm clothes!
• The avalanche danger on the route, in my opinion, is average. There is only one potentially dangerous section - the ascent and descent from Mount Tabunaya. As always, when going on ski touring routes, the group must have a full set of avalanche equipment and have the skills to rescue when caught in an avalanche. On days of snowfall and the first two days after it, the route is not recommended for passage due to avalanches from the fallen snow.
• My personal conclusion on the ski touring set that I put together this winter: everything is awesome in terms of weight (less than 5 kg for a set of skis + boots + bindings) and convenience (walking is comfortable, the leg works naturally, you want to go and go!), but the fact The fact that the fastenings do not work in the head is annoying on serious off-piste descents. Of course, I would like the fastening to work properly not only in the heel, but also in the toe. Alternatives - Diamir Vipec 12? Marker Kingpin? The only thing that stops us is the astronomical prices for these mounts...

A short video about the hike

And this spring, Max and his friends had a great time skiing in the area of ​​the Bzerpinsky cornice. Better to watch with sound!

Route to Kholodny camp

The route from Pikhtovaya Polyana to Kholodny camp begins at an altitude of 1600 meters. From the starting point to the highest point of the route, the top of Mount Tabunaya (height 2300 meters), the route goes quite steeply uphill. The total elevation gain for the first 3.5 km of the route is 700 meters. Due to such a large elevation gain, this section may require 2 to 3 hours of time. Further, up to the Kholodny camp, go only down. First, go down to the houses on the Bzerpinsky cornice (about 30 - 40 minutes), and then, in 2-3 hours, first to the Pseashkho pass, and then down along the Urushten river, go down to the confluence of the Urushten and Kholodnaya rivers, to the end of the route.

Coordinates of key points:

• (1) The beginning of the trail near the station "Priyut Pikhtovy" of the Gazprom cable car - N43°41.659" E40°21.033"
• (2) Benches in the Bear Gate parking lot - N43°42.019" E40°21.850"
• (3) Top of Mount Tabunaya - N43°41.967" E40°23.084"
• (4) Houses on the Bzerpinsky cornice - N43°42.573" E40°22.580"
• (5) Canopy, benches and sign at the Pseashkho pass - N43°44.343" E40°23.719"
• (6) Bridge over the Kholodnaya River - N43°45.572" E40°25.017"
• (7) House in the Kholodny camp - N43°45.764" E40°25.093"

Infrastructure facilities indicated on the map:

• (A) Terminal station "Rosa Khutor" of the Adler - Krasnaya Polyana railway
• (B) Office of the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve in the Aviary complex
• (C) Lower station of the Gazprom cable car
• (D) Lower station of the Alpika-Service cable car
• (E) Rosa Khutor (hotels, shops, restaurants, cafes, embankment)
• (F) center of the village of Krasnaya Polyana

Additionally:

• Routes and key points of the area for viewing in Google Earth - download
• GPS track of the winter route (

Trek budget

• Products for 2 days - 450 rubles
• Gas cylinder - 250 rubles
• Electric train "Sochi - Krasnaya Polyana" - 350 rubles (in summer - 115 rubles)
• Ticket to the reserve for 2 days - 400 rubles (200 rubles per person per day)
• Ascent by cable car - 850 rubles (descent included in the price)

Office addresses of the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve
to get a pass for the route:

• Adler, Karl Marx St., 8. Opening hours: from 9-00 to 17-00, except weekends and holidays.
• Krasnaya Polyana, Aviary complex (2 km along the road from the Gazprom cable car). Working hours: from 9-00 to 17-00, without weekends and holidays.
• Telephone number of the tourism department for information on routes and organization of hikes: 8-988-150-0102

Ski touring equipment

Ski touring is a fairly new sport. Unlike ski tourists, who go skiing mainly on plains or mid-mountains, ski touring involves hiking and climbing along a pronounced mountainous terrain with descents along unprepared slopes. Accordingly, the equipment used in ski touring is quite specific! A classic set of ski touring equipment includes:

• skis with metal edges, similar to classic mountain skis, but lighter
• boots, also similar to ski boots, but lighter and of a special design that makes walking easier in them
• the mounts are, of course, lightweight (!) and have, in addition to the riding mode, several walking modes
• Camus that prevents skis from slipping back when moving uphill
• avalanche equipment set. At a minimum - an avalanche transceiver, a probe and a shovel

The high cost of modern ski touring equipment is, in my opinion, the main obstacle to the transition of tourists to ski tourists... The cost of a new ski touring set, including skis, boots and bindings, starts from $1,500. But just having ski touring equipment is not enough! Hiking in the mountains in winter means making a serious investment in your avalanche training. And this is not only a standard set of avalanche equipment - a shovel, a probe and a beeper, but also high-quality training in both assessing the avalanche danger of slopes and choosing a route, as well as in searching for someone caught in an avalanche. In short, ski touring is a serious thing!

Especially for the report, I got confused and took a photo of the equipment I took on this trip. Here's what happened:

My equipment for this ski touring trip

Special ski touring equipment

• Boots for insurance against loss of skis (instead of skistops)
• Fastenings
• Kamus
• Telescopic poles
• Elastic safety lanyard for insurance against loss of skis (instead of ski stops)
• Ski ties just in case :)

Avalanche equipment

• Avalanche transducer (“beeper”) [not pictured]
• Avalanche probe
• Snow shovel

Tourist equipment

• Travel backpack
• Sleeping bag
• Seat
• Gas stove
• Gas bottle
• Bowl, cup and spoon
• Drinking bottle
• Sunglasses in a case
• Headlamp
• Folding knife with additional functions ("multitool")
• Matches and matchsticks in a sealed aluminum case
• Sunscreen cream
• Hygienic lipstick
• Documents and money
• Spare batteries for flashlight and navigator
• External battery for charging your phone/camera

Products

• Garbage bag ("trashbag")

Casual clothing

• Thermal T-shirt
• Thermal pants
• Ski socks
• Fleece jacket
• Softshell running trousers
• Thin gloves
• Headband
• cap
• Nasal tissue

Clothes for bad weather

• Membrane jacket
• Self-removing membrane trousers
• Warm self-release pants
• Puff
• Membrane mittens
• Spare socks, warm
• Balaclava [not pictured]

Clothes for sleep

• Long johns for sleep
• Jumper for sleep
• Warm socks for sleeping

Other

• Paper map [not pictured]
• GPS navigator [not pictured]
• Phone/camera/notebook [not pictured] - APPLE iPhone 5
• First aid kit [not pictured]
• Sponsor's flag!

NOTE. We did not take a tent and rugs, since we initially planned to spend the night in a house. The final weight of the backpacks was about 8 kg, unfortunately, it was not possible to weigh more accurately.

Other ski tours in Krasnaya Polyana and the Caucasus

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