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Karaouin Mosque

Fes - Morocco.

Fes is the religious and cultural center of Morocco, its first capital. Once upon a time there was a Roman settlement called Volubilis, near the ruins of which Berbers settled on the bank of a drying river (the Arabs call such rivers wadis). And in 789, Idris I took a hoe and outlined the boundaries of the future city. The city was named Madinat al-Fas (“fas” translated from Arabic as “hoe”).
And soon Fez began to play the role of a holy city, for it became the seat of the shorf - the privileged descendants of the prophet, who subsequently made a significant contribution to the history of the state. The reign of the Idrisids (789-926) was marked by the spread of Muslim culture among the Berber population of the interior regions of the country that had recently converted to Islam.

But the founding father of the capital of Morocco is considered to be Moulay Idriss II, who in 809 built a royal palace and a mosque on the other side of the river. Gradually, Fez was settled by refugees from Muslim Spain and Ifriqiya. In 817, 800 Muslim families arrived from Cordoba (Spain), and the city began to be built in the Andalusian style. Later, Arabs from Tunisia and Jews from Spain moved here - they all brought with them cultural and architectural traditions. The Jewish quarter of Mellah (from Arabic, “milkh” - “salt”) has still been preserved in the city: in those days, Jews were forced to salt the heads of criminals before they were exhibited on the city walls.

Idris was the great-grandson of Hasan, the son of Imam Ali, who was married to Fatima, the daughter of the Prophet Muhammad.

Having taken part in the uprising in Hejaz (Arabia), Idris was forced to flee first to Egypt and then to North Africa, where the prestige of the descendants of the Prophet Muhammad was high. Here in Morocco, a group of Berber tribal leaders recognized him as their leader.

By the end of the 11th century. Prince Yusuf ben Tashufin (1061 - 1106) united both quarters and within the fortress wall. During the Almohad dynasty (1130-1269), Fez became a religious and commercial center. Mills and workshops of tanners, weavers, dyers, coppersmiths, and potters were built along the river.

The city became especially famous due to the fact that the Qara Mosque win and naho The religious school that ran under her gradually turned hit the croup religious and educational center, real environment non-centennial university. Through this center of culture and education, glory and which thundered from Spain to Senegal, passed almost all the brighten up whether North Africa.

By the 16th century Fez is already one of the largest cities in Africa, its population has reached 200 thousand. At that time, the city was the political capital of a vast state. Medieval travelers wrote about Fez: “Houses are piled above houses, and at their feet flows water that is better than any wine” - they were talking about the river crossing the city, and about the springs flowing directly in the city; “If there is heaven on earth, then this is Fes! This city combines the beauties of Cordoba and Baghdad and is exceptionally harmonious.”
In 1549, Fez was captured by the Saadian sultans, who made Marrakech their capital. But in 1666, new rulers from the Philalid dynasty returned Fez to its former significance. Since the 19th century

In Fez, the bride was delivered to the groom's house in a wooden chest covered with brocade, and was immediately returned to her parents if she turned out to be not a virgin.

Traveling musicians played and sang in the squares, monkey trainers and snake charmers performed, and traders of amulets and birds carried goods. At the bazaar, fortune tellers, sorcerers and alchemists offered their services, and in numerous zawiyas (cells) of the medina, marabouts - hermits - fingered their rosaries and silently prayed.

Among the monuments of Fez, the ancient madrassas of Bou-Inaniya, Attarin, Sherratin and others attract attention. The Bou-Inaniya madrasah is famous for its chimes in the form of 13 bronze bells. These chimes were made by a brilliant mechanic back in the 14th century. Madrasahs played a huge role in the life of medieval Morocco. Initially, they existed at mosques on donations from believers and frequent subsidies. Here they taught the Koran, theological sciences, rhetoric and Islamic law.
Inner courtyard of the Bu-Inaniya madrasah.

Fez is revered as the cradle of Morocco. At that time, the residence of the Sultan was located here.
In 1844 and 1859-1860. Morocco fought wars with France and Spain. The French protectorate, declared in March 1912, saved Morocco from anarchy and possible partition between the European powers. During the period of French colonization, the capital was moved to Rabat.

In the gate opening one can see a panorama of the Old Town, due in the lowlands: ancient rusty ocher walls surround there is a cluster ancient houses with flat roofs and a network of winding tidy streets above which, like masts, rise gray from the couple's time hexagons of minarets. There are about 300 of them, many ical.

Modern Fes consists of two parts - the Old City of Fes el-Bali and the New City of Fes el-Jadid. In the northern part of the New Town there is a palace square, where important ceremonies took place in ancient times. It is surrounded by high walls adjacent to the royal palace. On the western side there is an arsenal building (now a carpet factory). On the south side stands the majestic Bab-Dekaken gate of the 14th century. with massive crenellated towers. In addition to them, several other ancient gates have been preserved in the city, including the Bab-Bou-Jeloud gate. Reconstructed in 1913, they impress with luxurious glazed ceramics, painted with intricate arabesques, blue on the outside and green on the inside.

Old Fes differs from the new quarters with its original smell. The fact is that ancient architectural monuments are located in close proximity to craft and shopping districts, as evidenced by the aromas of spices and tanned leather. In patches of squares they sell henna, antimony and flower oils. Berber pottery, modestly decorated with simple geometric patterns, is sold nearby.

Fes el-Bali today is more often called medina (Arabic, “city”). It is somewhat isolated from modern Fez. The city cemeteries, which were located directly outside the city walls, prevented the New City from invading the neighborhoods of Fes el-Bali. This allowed the medina to remain almost in its original form. Now it is a labyrinth of narrow streets and dead ends with a total number, according to some estimates, of more than 9 thousand. The atmosphere of hoary antiquity reigns here. Once upon a time, an official, accompanied by 12 archers, rode around the city on horseback every day to check the quality of products at the market and publicly flog those who tried to cheat customers.

Local residents love comfort and are not devoid of elegance in their clothing. This is especially true for women: marrying a native of Fez means bringing into the house a wife with an easy-going character and golden hands. Women in the city rarely cover their faces, which indicates that most of the population come from Berber families, where women occupy a worthy place. So the Fez people feel some superiority in relation to other inhabitants of Morocco.

The main shrine on the right bank of the Fes River is the Andalusian Mosque. Built in the 9th century, it was expanded and decorated in the 13th century. The graceful silhouette of the mosque dominates the surrounding area. The monumental gate, decorated with mosaics, has a magnificent carved cedar canopy.

In the Karaouine quarter, which arose after immigrants from the Tunisian city of Kairouan settled here, is the famous Karaouine Mosque. The building was rebuilt several times until it became the largest mosque in North Africa. It was here that the famous University of Fez was located, one of the oldest in the world, where in the 14th century. 8 thousand students studied. Its unique library contains a valuable collection of ancient manuscripts and manuscripts.
One of the shrines of Morocco is the mausoleum of Idris II. The streets around the tomb are blocked by a wooden beam, which forces passers-by to bow their heads. Entry beyond the ravine is not allowed for non-Muslims: here begins the khorm - a forbidden territory for non-Muslims. Once upon a time, people persecuted by the authorities took refuge in this place and enjoyed the right of refuge in the holy land.

On the border of the Fes el-Bali and Fes el-Jadid quarters there is the Museum of Art and Traditions of Fes, where you can see the best examples of ancient ceramics, magnificent embroidery, carpets, a collection of bronze doors, astrolabes of the 11th-16th centuries. The museum is housed in a palace built by the Alawites in the 19th century.
It is believed that the Fasi - the inhabitants of Fez - have a special character, which was formed through the fusion of many cultures and traditions: the Arabs brought nobility, immigrants from Spain - sophistication. Jews - cunning, and Berbers - tolerance and hard work.

Today Fez is going through difficult times. The old town still amazes visitors with the spirit of the Middle Ages reigning within its walls. But “the soul and heart of the kingdom, as the Moroccans call it) need attraction. Former UNESCO Director-General Amadou Makhtar M'Bow called in April 1980 to save "one of the most glorious cities of the Islamic world - a city of faith and knowledge, a wonderful cultural and artistic center, the Athens of Africa, the center of talent and tolerance." “Fez,” said M. Bou, “must be saved for the sake of its population, for the sake of Morocco, for the sake of the Islamic world and the entire international community, for it is the heritage of all humanity.”

The problem is that after 11 centuries of harmonious development of the city, demographic pressure has upset the balance between man and his environment. The indigenous population of Fes el-Bali began to move to new neighborhoods. Yesterday's peasants, who have no historical consciousness, settled in their houses. In pursuit of comfort, they destroy old houses, causing irreparable damage to the ancient city.

The famous university was long ago transferred outside the city walls, and the madrassas fell into disrepair. Traditional crafts are dying out. The former inhabitants of the medina, hoping to profit from tourists, were interested in restoration and repair work. Now, unauthorized construction has begun within the Old City, seriously disrupting the structure of the medina.

Demographic growth has led to another harmful consequence - water pollution. The river turned into a sewer. For more than ten centuries, a remarkable system operated successfully, supplying water to residential buildings, tanneries and other workshops, mills, fountains and gardens. Now, due to rapid population growth and its own wear and tear, the system can no longer cope with its task.

The lack of jobs has led to the creation of small craft workshops, which are not at all conducive to the preservation of ancient buildings. We are talking, on the one hand, about people who are desperately fighting for a piece of bread, and on the other hand, about the medina, which must fit into our era without losing its former shine, its memory and soul. As always in such cases, solving the problem is impossible without major investments. But for now, as they say in Morocco, the international community resembles a man who renounced his inheritance in order to avoid paying taxes.

Fes is not only the largest center of religion, culture and education in the country, but also the oldest of the four imperial cities (the other three are Meknes, Marrakesh, Rabat). Despite its centuries-old history, this amazing city has remained a true example of the Muslim Middle Ages, where practically nothing has changed. Its winding streets still look like labyrinths, the same families live in the old quarters from century to century, street markets invariably sell granny slippers and Berber carpets, and the city tanners still process leather using ancient traditional technologies that are passed down from generation to generation. This unique city, bright and sonorous, is a real monument to ancient times, where travelers from all corners of the globe flock every year.

Climate and weather

Fes is located in the Mediterranean climate zone, due to which the summers are very hot and dry, and the winters are quite cool and humid. It is worth noting that the weather in this region is influenced by the proximity of the Atlas Mountains, and therefore it is characterized by differences in day and night temperatures, as well as pronounced seasonality. In summer, the average daily temperature here is about +26 °C, although there were cases when the air warmed up to +45 °С and higher. In winter, it often rains, and the thermometer fluctuates around the mark +12 °C.

The most favorable time to travel to Fes is the beginning of summer (May - June).

Nature

Fes is located in the northeast of the country, in the northern foothills of the Atlas Mountains. There are no natural bodies of water in the city and its surroundings, and the vegetation is mainly represented by juniper, evergreen oaks, dwarf palms and cedars.

Attractions

Fes, which is rightfully considered a real pearl of Arab culture, as well as the cultural and religious center of Morocco, consists of three separate districts. The most notable of these is Fes el Bali. This medieval city with a labyrinth of narrow streets and many mosques is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Area Fes el Jdid is replete with ancient monuments of the Marinid era, and New Fes was built in accordance with modern architectural canons.

Of the numerous architectural monuments, one of the most interesting is Al-Qaraween University(859), which became a real spiritual and educational center of the Islamic world. Another attraction of Fez, without a doubt, is the palace Bou Inania Madrasah with its own minaret, serving as a Muslim religious school. On the facade of this complex there is a unique example of a water clock, which invariably delights city guests. No less remarkable are the blue and white gates. Bab-Boo-Jeloud with spectacular ornaments, mausoleum of the Sultan Moulay Idriss II with sacred artifacts and the Royal Palace, within the walls of which there is a Museum of Art.

In addition, a unique place in Fez is the ancient Tanners' Quarter Shuara, where you can observe the process of leather production using unique ancient technologies (tamping, drying, painting).

Nutrition

Fez cuisine is considered the best in the country, so it is not surprising that in the city you can see a small national restaurant or snack bar on literally every corner. Local chefs are famous for the fact that they often combine sweet and salty foods in one dish, and also use fruits instead of vegetables. In addition, almost all dishes are generously flavored with a variety of spices and seasonings (cumin, cinnamon, coriander, sweet or hot pepper, etc.).

The main treat of Fez is the so-called pastila - puff pastries with pigeon meat, almonds and sugar. No less original and tasty dishes that are most common here are meat tagine with quince, lamb with prunes and dried apricots, and duck with nuts and raisins. An integral part of any Moroccan meal is delicious fresh bread, served with cumin and salt. Well, as a dessert, seasonal fruits or sweet pies with honey, nuts, cinnamon and sesame are usually served. All these delights are most often washed down with sweet mint tea or fresh juices and cocktails with almonds and avocado. It is worth noting that, despite the fact that Morocco produces excellent wines, the Muslim religion prohibits the consumption of alcohol, so they are rarely served in national restaurants.

Accommodation

In Fez, the most popular among tourists are “riads” - old houses with picturesque gardens and luxurious decorations that have been converted into hotels. Most often they consist of 5-6 small but very cozy rooms, for example, Riad Said(from $113) or Riad Rcif(from $40).

Of course, this ancient city also has many traditional hotels. Modern and luxurious hotels are concentrated directly in New Fes: Palais Faraj Suites & Spa, Les Mérinides, Ramada Fes etc. Well, low-price accommodation options, namely hostels (from $8) and 1-2* hotels (from $23), are located in the historical part of the city.

Entertainment and relaxation

Despite the fact that Fes is a calm and rather old-fashioned city, here any tourist can easily find an interesting option for spending time. For example, here you can play golf (there is a magnificent course) or go horse riding. You can go on a multi-day horseback riding trip with stops in Volubilis and Meknes. Tennis is no less popular in the city. Thus, every year the Princess Lalla Meriem Grand Prix tournament takes place here, in which the most famous tennis players participate.

Fes is also famous for its numerous festivals and celebrations, the most popular of which are the Festival of Sacred Music, the Cherry Fair and the Jazz Festival in Riads. As for nightlife, there are clubs and bars only on the premises of large hotels. In addition, many hotels offer all kinds of short courses in Fez cuisine, pottery, calligraphy and Arab-Andalusian music.

Well, for those who want not only to relax, but also to improve their health, there are many hammams and spas in Fez. The city also has a luxurious thermal spa "Moulay Yacoub" with warm healing springs.

Purchases

Like any Moroccan city, Fez has many bustling and colorful markets where you can buy all kinds of souvenirs and local delicacies. The largest number of such markets are concentrated in the old area, which is famous for its special oriental flavor. First of all, you should pay attention to fez caps, traditional babouches, tagines, as well as jewelry and fabrics. In addition, Fez has many interesting specialty markets, such as the Spice Bazaar El Attarin, Fish and salt market, medicinal plants market Ash Shabin etc.

However, the main product of Fez is, of course, leather goods, which are sold in the famous tanners' quarter. Leather has been tanned in the city for a very long time, and it is processed according to old recipes, without the use of alkalis and acids, so residents from all over the country flock here for high-quality and original bags, jackets and accessories.

In addition to markets and bazaars in Fez, of course, there are large shopping centers and supermarkets where you can buy literally everything, but there is no unique oriental atmosphere there. It is worth saying that there is no generally accepted schedule for opening and closing stores in Fez, so most of them operate on an individual schedule. Well, the markets and bazaars here are open almost all daylight hours.

Transport

In Fez, public transport is represented by city buses, the fare of which is approximately $0.3. It is worth noting that the buses do not have a clear schedule, and you can only find out their route from local residents. In addition, bus stops are often not marked, so you can understand exactly where the bus should stop by looking at the crowd of people gathered near the road.

Taxis in Fez are mainly represented by small cars that are designed for three people. They usually do not have a fixed fare, so the price must be agreed upon in advance. Also popular here are “big” taxis, which are similar to minibuses. There are also the usual metered taxis in the city, although there are not very many of them.

Connection

To make calls within the country or abroad, it is most convenient to use mobile communications, which operate as a standard in Morocco GSM 900. It is carried out through three mobile operators: Maroc Telecom, Meditel And INWI. Roaming within the country is available to subscribers of all major foreign operators. Also, city guests are offered local prepaid SIM cards (about $22). Prices and tariffs can be found directly in branded showrooms in the city.

An alternative to mobile phones are street machines that operate using calling cards ( Maroc Telecom) or coins. Cards are sold in almost all large stores and post offices, as well as gas stations.

Internet access is provided in most hotels, and most often it is already included in the room price. In addition, there are several dozen Internet cafes in Fez, where the cost of an hour-long Internet session is no more than $1. There is no GPRS roaming throughout Morocco.

Safety

In Fez, tourists are first advised to be extremely careful when handling local currency. Very often, sellers imitate the absence of banknotes for change, and sometimes they can slip in a non-existent bill ( "Berber dihrem").

You should be wary of all kinds of scammers and beggars: under no circumstances should you accept any services from strangers. Also, in order to avoid becoming a victim of pickpockets, you need to carefully monitor your personal belongings in public places.

Business climate

Fes is not only a major cultural and historical heart of Morocco, but also a fairly significant commercial and industrial center of the country. The city's economy is based on the textile and food industries, as well as wood processing. In addition, Fez is the main supplier of leather in the country. In the New Fes area there are many branches of the country's largest banks and state-owned companies, as well as a large number of buildings that are intended for holding congresses and business meetings.

Real estate

Recently, there has been increased interest in Fez real estate not only among Moroccans, but also among foreign investors. One of the main reasons for this trend is the fact that prices on the local real estate market remain stable and quite reasonable, despite the cultural and historical uniqueness of the city.

So, for example, the cost of a small house without renovation here is approximately $40,000, and for a house with three bedrooms and in excellent condition they will ask about $100,000. Larger properties, including commercial buildings, cost at least $200,000.

It is recommended to time a trip to Fes to coincide with the International Festival of Sacred Music, which takes place in early June. During this large-scale event, the city is filled with musicians representing religious communities from the Middle East, West and Asia. Throughout the festival week, numerous concerts and performances take place here, during which you can listen to the trance-inducing music of the Berbers, the sacred music of the Celts, Arab-Andalusian music and the sacred hymns of Hindustan, as well as see the dances of Sufi dervishes from Turkey.

Fans of oriental culture who want to plunge into the Arab world can safely go to Morocco. It is in this country that they will find many interesting and educational places. Morocco is one of the most picturesque and mysterious countries located in the north of the African continent. It gained popularity among tourists not so long ago. However, trips to Morocco can be purchased almost without problems.

One of the important cities of Morocco is Fes. It was built in 791. This ancient and modern city is full of cars, wide streets and high-rise buildings. However, it is here that the most unique city is located - Medina. The medina is a city within a city, surrounded by a medieval wall and one of the largest pedestrian areas in the world. The Prophet Mohammed fled here to escape danger. And it just so happened that all the old quarters in Morocco are called Medina.

City of Fes: map of the old part of the city - Medina.

Fez coordinates on the map: 34°02′39″ N. w. 5°00′07″ W d.

It is the Medina that today is considered the most important attraction of Fez. Here you can plunge into a completely different world with its narrow and winding streets, courtyards with elegant fountains, the bustle and noise of the oriental bazaar. In Medina you can buy a huge number of souvenirs that are made specifically for tourists.

In the Middle Ages, Fez was divided into numerous districts. Each such district had its own mosque, bathhouse, water supply and bakery. Fez was the center of the Islamic world. About 800 mosques have been built and operate on its territory. The city also has one of the oldest universities in the world.

Even in ancient times, the city of Fes was famous for its leather goods. And today, the production and dyeing of leather is carried out in an area that is specially designed for these purposes. Here, like many centuries ago, a water mill operates. With its help, seeds are ground, from the juice of which natural dyes for leather are produced.

Video: Medina (old part) of the city of Fez. (UNESCO/NHK)

Another video, but in English:

One of the entrance gates to Medina: Bab Boujeloud Gate. On the left in the passage you can see the minaret of the Bu-Inanya madrasah.

And this is Princess Lalla Salma - the wife of the King of Morocco.

Dar Makhzen is a royal palace.

One of the few wide and bright streets in Fes.

Fez can rightly be called the Heart of Morocco, the center of oriental history and culture. It is under the protection of UNESCO. Tourists who choose this city will thoroughly enjoy the beauty of the architecture and art of the East.

Every human activity, both creative and destructive, every manifestation of nascent or dying life was accompanied by a stench.

Patrick Suskind. "Perfumer. The story of a murderer"

Once upon a time, when I was a child, I watched the movie “Labyrinth”. I don't remember the plot anymore. I only remember that there was an old swamp there, the stench of which was never washed off. It was called the Swamp of Eternal Stench. I was sure that this was an invention of the scriptwriters: well, such a fetid place cannot exist in the real world. I admit I was wrong.

There is a country in Africa called Morocco. There is a city called Fes in Morocco. In Fez there is the old medina of Fes el-Bali. In Fes el-Bali there is a quarter with leather workshops. In the quarter with leather workshops there is a place where leather is processed and dyed - Shuara. And there is such a stench hanging there that the Swamp of Eternal Stench is just nervously smoking on the sidelines. It seems: well, how can we be surprised, we have lived in Russia all our lives, and in some of our passages and front doors there is not such a smell?! It turns out there is something. No, if you look at the dye shops of Fez from the roofs of the surrounding buildings, as all normal people do, then all this disgrace does not smell so bad. Firstly, there is some kind of breeze blowing around there, which nevertheless slightly dilutes the stench hanging over the dyehouses. Secondly, local merchants helpfully give all visitors a couple of mint leaves, which, if applied to the nose, almost completely eliminate the remnants of the unpleasant odor. In short, you can live! But if you go downstairs and make your way into the very heart of the dyehouse, straight to the vats in which the skin is soaked, it immediately becomes clear that even the most pissy gateway in comparison with this place is just a fragrant flowerbed. As soon as you enter there, nausea creeps up your throat and your vision becomes cloudy, so you instinctively try to hold your breath and shove the mint deeper into your nose. And the only thought that comes to mind at this time is how not to lose consciousness and plop into one of these fetid vats... Brrr! Even after several months, as soon as I remember about Fez, I immediately begin to feel this disgusting smell, as if I had never managed to wash myself of it. Only hot tea with cognac helps...

Fez is the first city founded by the Arabs on the lands of modern times, a pearl of Arab culture, a religious and scientific center and one of the “imperial cities”. Let me remind you that this term is usually used to refer to cities that at different times became the capital of the country. Three other imperial cities: Meknes, Rabat and. The latter was for many centuries the main rival of Fez in the struggle for capital functions. At some periods in its history, the country split into two independent states, each with its own capital: Fez in the north and Marrakech in the south. And, according to one version, the modern capital - Rabat - is nothing more than a compromise between these two cities.

Translated from Arabic, “fes” means “pick” (or “pick”). According to legend, it was with this instrument that Idris I, the founder of the Arab Idrisid dynasty, delineated the first border of the city in 789.

Today's Fes consists of three parts: Fes el-Bali - the old medina surrounded by a medieval fortress wall, Fes Jdid - the new medina founded in the 13th century, and New Fes, located aside from them, founded in 1916.

The historical part - Fes el-Bali - is considered the largest medina (and also a pedestrian zone) in the world. Since 1981, this has been an object.

In the morning, when we had breakfast in and were just about to leave towards Fes, I used the application and booked us a room in one of the local riads, somewhere on the outskirts of Fes el-Bali. I specifically chose a hotel next to the fortress wall and gates: I realized that trying to enter the medina by car was a bad idea on the first day of our trip, scraping the walls of the narrow streets of Marrakech with my rear-view mirrors.

In general, in more or less decent hotels in Fez there is a tradition of greeting guests at the city gates with a donkey or mule with suitcases loaded on its back. There is no other transport here and cannot be: the streets are so narrow that even a donkey cannot fit through everywhere. We didn’t need such a service - the parking was located literally around the corner from our riad, so, squeezing our Hyundai between a couple of some shabby trucks, we happily rushed deep into the medieval alleys of Fez.

Despite the fact that it was no more than two hundred meters from the parking lot to the riad, the search took about twenty minutes. We walked back and forth past the nondescript, shabby door several times, and only after that we decided to take a closer look at the small rusty sign above it - the hotel we were looking for was right in front of us. The knock from the ancient knocker echoed loudly from the stone walls and disappeared somewhere in the distance. Hurried steps were heard outside the door, the old lock quietly creaked, and a friendly Arab gestured us inside. Walking down a short corridor, we found ourselves in the courtyard of our riad.

This is what any decent Moroccan riad looks like. In the past, this word denoted the houses of wealthy Moroccans; today this is the name given to traditional Moroccan hotels located in ancient buildings: outside there is a blank wall and a dirty, inconspicuous door, inside there is a real palace with fountains, swimming pools, expensive decoration and spacious cozy rooms.

View of our room. We could, of course, have asked to be accommodated on one of the upper floors, but we were the only guests that night, so having access from our room directly to the patio suited us just fine.

Prices per night in a Moroccan riad start from a few dollars and can reach several hundred - it all depends on the level of the hotel. Thanks, we paid only fifty dollars for a night in these mansions.

The room included: a delicious breakfast, fast wi-fi and a rooftop terrace. This is a traditional set for any self-respecting riad. Well, if you spend the night in a palace, then breakfast should be royal.

Shortly before this, Dimon made a senseless attempt to wake me up so that I could climb onto the roof with him to photograph the sunrise. Remembering the oath I made to myself the day before, I just kicked him a couple of times with my heel, after which I happily fell back to sleep.

Judging by the fact that Dimon showed me only two photographs at breakfast with vases illuminated by the soft morning sun, I concluded that the dawn that day was so-so, and my decision - to sleep at least once during this trip - was undeniably correct.

The riad we came across was, of course, indescribably beautiful. Not for a minute did I lose the feeling that we were in a real Moroccan fairy tale.

Having finished breakfast, we threw our suitcases into the car and went to explore the mysterious medina of Fes el-Bali - a mysterious world consisting of almost ten thousand alleys. Most of them end in dead ends, and the total length should be tens, if not hundreds of kilometers. In general, you can wander here for a very, very long time.

Most of the walls in Fes el-Bali are blank. And most importantly, you will never guess what is hidden behind their unremarkable doors: there could equally likely be a slum or a royal palace. Traditionally, windows in Moroccan houses only face the courtyard. Such architecture, firstly, protects from the heat, and secondly, from prying eyes.

To be honest, all medinas in North Africa are about the same. There is nothing special to see in them: an old mosque, an old school, maybe a couple of other unremarkable buildings of dubious historical value, and that’s all.

The most interesting thing here is street life, which looks about the same everywhere - from Egypt to Morocco: shopping arcades, shopping arcades, shopping arcades...

Of course, Fes el-Bali stands out among other old Arab cities for its scale.

A real human anthill. Hundreds of passages-streets, no more than a meter wide, go in all directions. Getting lost in this maze is easy.

Initially, the density and chaotic nature of the development was explained by the fact that everyone tried to settle inside the city walls - they say it’s safer. But over time, it became clear that the strength of the clay fortifications surrounding the medina was clearly overestimated. Then the residents of Fez came up with the following: in the event of an attack, they simply opened the city gates and let the robbers inside. The latter very quickly lost their orientation and split into small groups, after which the residents easily dealt with the enemies one by one...

Today there is not a single map of Fez in the world. Even Google Maps and Maps.me have a very rough idea of ​​its layout - only the main streets are marked there, by the way, in reality they are located completely differently.

All the guidebooks describing Fes sprinkle with pretentious wishes a la “for the full experience, be sure to get lost in the medina.”

You know what? It is simply impossible to go here without a guide and not get lost. This whole web of streets is such a complex and confusing labyrinth that you don’t even have to try to navigate it. You turn it two or three times and you no longer remember where you came from, everything is the same. There are no landmarks. If you get lost, then on your mobile phone to the question “Where are you?” You can only answer “I am here!”

If you spend five minutes in Fes el-Bali, you are guaranteed not to know where you came from or where to go next. The navigator won't help much either - on narrow covered streets the signal from satellites or mobile phone towers is not always picked up, so your location on the mobile map will jump back and forth like a young stallion. The only option left is to move instinctively, this is the only way to get where you need to go. No, of course, not on the first try. And not with the second one. But, as you know, the one who walks will master the road.

You can, of course, give in to temptation and use the services of local helpers, but this is fraught with either large expenses or big problems. And although Fez is considered one of the safest cities in Morocco, unpleasant stories still sometimes happen on its streets. When we were in Merzouga, local guys showed us a recent video on YouTube - literally a week before our arrival, one of the locals cut German tourists with a knife.

The streets of Fes el Bali are narrow and dark. Moreover, they tend to taper towards the top - as if buildings are collapsing on top of each other.

Let's add to this dirt, noise, a lot of smells and multiply it with the aggressive pestering of the local residents. They will literally grab your clothes, trying to offer you something. You will politely refuse them, and they, not paying any attention to it, will run next to you, shout something and wave their arms. Wherever you turn, they will try to explain to you that you are going the wrong way - you need to go the other way, and they will now show you the way. Literally after five minutes you begin to get tired of this obsession.

In general, walking around Fez is not very pleasant, especially with a couple of expensive cameras hanging in plain sight.

Fes el-Bali, like any other medina, is divided into shopping districts. Each of them specializes in one thing.

They sell electronics here.

There are leather goods.

Each quarter has its own mosque, water supply system, bakery and hammam.

Previously, at night the passage was blocked with special doors, so it was impossible to pass from one block to the next. Today this tradition is a thing of the past.

Fez is the scientific, spiritual and religious capital of Morocco. It is often called the "Mecca of the West" and the "African Athens".

One of the main local attractions is al-Qaraween University, founded in the 9th century. According to the Guinness Book of Records, this is the oldest continuously operating educational institution in the world.

But the most interesting thing in Fez, of course, is the leather dyehouses of Choir, famous throughout the world. They were the reason why this city was on our route list.

The dyehouses are located on the banks of a small river. From the stories of other travelers, I knew that the place was always full of workers washing skins. Therefore, when I saw a large construction site instead, I doubted whether we had even arrived there.

Checking the navigator showed that we are on the right track.

The best way to view the dyehouses is from the roofs of the shops adjacent to them. Merchants actively invite all tourists to the top, in the hope that the latter will buy something from them when they come down. We did not deviate from the standard program and climbed the stairs to one of the roofs.

From there I hoped to see many colorful vats in which leather is dyed. Instead, there was a huge construction site in front of me. Just a couple of weeks before our arrival, the dyehouses were closed for a six-month reconstruction, during which they will be turned into a tourist site.

It is clear that you can now forget about the former charm. To give you an idea of ​​what they looked like before reconstruction, keep an archive photo ().

What to do next was completely unclear. There were no worthy ideas, so we didn’t come up with anything better than to get a tongue from the nearest leather shop. From him we learned that, firstly, there are two dyeing shops in Fez - old and new. Secondly, the old ones are closed for reconstruction, but the new ones are still functioning as before. Thirdly, that although they are smaller in size than the old ones, they feel no worse. Fourthly, if you really want to, you can get inside, although usually no one is allowed there.

We decided to try it. There were two options: either go ahead with a fight, or secretly, like a ninja, from the back door. We chose the second: we grabbed some young guy who promised to take us along secret paths, and dived with him into some dark alley. A couple of moments later we were inside.

Sheep, camel and horse skins were soaked in huge vats filled with horse urine mixed with some ingredients unknown to me. Everything around them was filled with a thick layer of some kind of crap. A thick stench emanated from all this, even if you hang an axe.

The depth of the vats, by the way, is several meters. If you accidentally stumble, it will hide you headlong.

Technology here has not changed for centuries. Everything is done the same way as many centuries ago.

As Tyoma Lebedev wrote in his story about visiting Fez: “The path of a sheep from the meadow to the purse is not easy.”

We were quickly identified - soon a pot-bellied Arab approached us and tried to take money from us for the visit and drive us out. And if he failed to cope with the first, then he succeeded in the second: we were led back to the city in disgrace.

And although we stayed inside for about five minutes, no more, the impressions now will last for the rest of our lives.

Working for a leather worker, of course, is the worst thing you can imagine. I don’t know how long they ultimately live, but I very much doubt that it will be long.

By the way, prices in Fez are among the lowest in Morocco.

After some time, it was not without difficulty that we escaped from the stuffy streets of Fes el-Bali. Just as we were about to go further - to Chefchaouen - Dimon saw some ruins on the hillside that he absolutely had to see. I had to go there first.

The ruins turned out to be old royal tombs.

They had a beautiful view of Fes el Bali.

Only here we were released from visiting the dyehouses, and we took a deep breath of the sultry wind flying over Fez. The journey continued.

The show will go on!

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The Royal Palace of Fez (Dar el Makhzen) covers an area of ​​about 80 hectares of land and includes mosques, beautiful gardens, ancient madrassas and schools of Koranic studies dating back to the 14th century. The palace itself was built in the 17th century. Part of the palace buildings is occupied by the King of Morocco, who regularly comes here.

The palace is famous for its golden doors, beautiful painted ceilings and intricate mosaic work. Inside are priceless historical artifacts from all over Morocco, including carpets, pottery, silk fabrics, firearms, and ancient manuscripts. The museum features life-size depictions of the tombs of the Carthaginian kings, as well as the ancient necropolis.

The palace is of great historical value and is one of the main attractions of Fez.

Todra Gorge

The Todra Gorge is considered the most beautiful and impressive place in Morocco.

This gorge is very popular among French climbers. For those who like to crawl through the mountains, there are many different paths for every taste and skill level. If you are not a rock climbing enthusiast, you can follow the walking paths and enjoy fantastic views and interesting scenery. A stream with crystal clear water runs along the bottom of the gorge, which enhances the feeling that you are on another planet.

There are many different fortresses scattered around the gorge, and local residents will be happy to tell several interesting stories about each of them.

What sights of Fes did you like? Next to the photo there are icons, by clicking on which you can rate a particular place.

Mosque-University of Karaouin

The building owes its Arabic name – Jami al-Qaraouin (Cathedral Mosque of the Kairouans) to its founders, immigrants from Kairouan, who largely ensured its rapid construction. Al-Qaraween Mosque is also known as one of the oldest universities.

Finding itself at the crossroads of cultural contacts of the Arab and Berber worlds, having experienced the creative efforts of the masters of North Africa and Southern Spain, successfully combining the building traditions of three continents - Asia, Africa and Europe, al-Qaraouin has become an encyclopedia of Maghreb architecture, clearly illustrating the stages of its formation and maturity .

Among the religious attractions of Fez, the Grand Mosque and the mausoleum of Sultan Moulay Idriss II deserve special attention. They contain valuable historical artifacts, and the decoration of the halls has remained untouched for several centuries.

The Moulay Idriss Mosque is one of the oldest mosques in the city of Fes, built in the 9th century. It contains the ashes of the city’s founder, the highly revered ruler Moulay Idris, in a mausoleum specially built for this purpose. The mosque is distinguished by its simple lines and lack of decoration; these were the principles of architecture at the time of its creation. It is decorated with a tall minaret built at the end of the 19th century. Its peculiarity is that it has a cylindrical shape, while usually minarets have a quadrangular cut. The green minaret of the mosque is decorated with Arabic inscriptions along the entire circumference, it stands out beautifully against the background of the white walls of the mosque.

Tourists can see the minaret and outer walls of the mosque, but only Muslims can go inside, as indicated by warning signs. Since the mausoleum is also located inside, access to it is limited.

Madrasah Bu-Inaniya

Among the outstanding examples of world architecture is the Bou-Inaniya madrasah in Fez (XIV century).

The beauty of the building is amazing - the entrance doors are decorated with bronze, the dome is made of wood carvings, the staircase is made of faience and onyx, and elegant Arabic arabesques are everywhere. The facade of the building is decorated with a unique antique water clock of the 14th century, arranged according to a complex system. The courtyard of the madrasah, which is decorated with marble, valuable wood and onyx, is no less beautiful. This is one of the few madrassas in Morocco that non-believers can enter.

Restaurant "Riad al Bartal"

The Riad al Bartal restaurant is a famous vegetarian restaurant in Fez (Morocco), and has always been famous for its varied and rich cuisine. You will be greeted by the color of the Moroccan interior, but at the same time - the comfort of a calm, homely environment. Here they will prepare excellent desserts for every taste. They also offer a good selection of wines that pair well with the food served.

Vegetarian food in Morocco is not as common as in European countries. However, here you can order plant-based food: couscous with vegetables, Moroccan salad of cucumbers and tomatoes, for dessert - fruits, pastries, yogurt.

Your lunch is accompanied by birdsong. The Riad al Bartal's mascot is a gray parrot from Gabon, as it is affectionately called "Poulette". He can easily fly to your table because he really loves fruits and sweets.

The most popular attractions in Fez with descriptions and photographs for every taste. Choose the best places to visit famous places in Fes on our website.

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