Bouncing nymph. Fishing with heavy nymphs What is a nymph
"Nymph" - simple and extractive
"Nymph" - simple and extractive
In the last issue of the magazine, in one of the articles devoted to fly fishing, the term appeared - “short nymph method”. It turned out that not all beginning fly fishermen are familiar with this method, and the editors began to receive requests asking for more details about such “nymph” fishing.
"Short Nymph"
The "short nymph" method is a very productive way of fly fishing. It owes its popularity to Czech fly fishermen, who very successfully use it in various international competitions. It is thanks to their extraordinary results that this method is also called “Czech”. Therefore, the names “short nymph” and “Czech nymph” refer to the same fly fishing method of catching potential fish sites over a short distance.
Tactics and fishing techniques. When fishing with the “short nymph” method, fishing occurs almost at the level of the rod tip, which forces the angler to be very careful. You should approach the shore very carefully so as not to scare away the fish standing underneath, for which the first casts will be designed to bite.
Casting should begin from the shore, gradually entering the water. It is important that the “fly” lies above the expected fish position and has time to go deep to the required level. If the strength of the current changes as the angler moves along the river, then the angle at which he casts the bait should also change in one direction or another. In this case, the fishing line and undergrowth must be taut all the time so that the slightest contact of the “fly” with the fish is transmitted to the angler’s hand. The angler's hand should be extended while fishing, providing the best sensitivity.
In the first part of the retrieve, until the fly, moving with the flow, reaches the place where the angler is standing, the tip of the rod should be held high enough above the water. But as soon as the “fly” is level with the fisherman, the rod should be lowered down so that the line does not interfere with its natural movement with the flow. At the final stage of wiring, when the “fly” reaches the lowest point, you must wait until the current lifts it to the upper layers of the water. During the rise, the “nymph” imitates an insect that is about to fly out, and quite often bites occur precisely at this moment. By the way, you can also play along with the tip of the rod, giving the “fly” chaotic movements, which also increases the number of bites.
In deep areas, you can use several flies at once. A reasonable maximum for beginners is to use 2 nymphs at a time (Fig. 1), although more experienced anglers use both 3 and 4 flies (Fig. 2). Most often, the heaviest “nymph” is knitted below, and above, correspondingly, a lighter small “nymph” or a wet “fly” is knitted (see Fig. 1). The heavy “nymph” quickly reaches the desired wiring horizon and holds all the equipment in the required tension. This installation is best suited for beginner fishermen, because... it provides good sensitivity of the tackle when a fish attacks any of the “flies”.
Almost all beginning fly fishermen make the same tactical mistake - they stagnate in one place. This is not worth doing.
If after several trips there are no bites, then it is better to move - even if it’s a few steps. Thus, the “nymph” will pass through the promising area along a completely different trajectory, which is important, given the small angle of attack of some fish. In principle, you can move both downstream and upstream. But I believe that when the angler moves upstream, the fish are less scared, and the river is read better, and, accordingly, he is less likely to miss a good place.
If the angler has fished many promising places, but there are still no bites, then you should think about changing the bait, because... The “short nymph” is so effective that the reason for failure may be either the lack of fish in the reservoir or a bad bait. Moreover, the number of bites may depend not only on the type of bait, but also on its size. Most often, the size of the bait depends on the current stage of development of the simulated insects during a specific period of the fishing season. For example, in the summer on the rivers of Tverskaya, Novgorod and other nearby regions, grayling is well caught on “nymphs” tied on hooks No. 10-12, and in the fall it prefers “nymphs” on hooks No. 18 or smaller.
Also, to increase the number of bites, you can change the fishing line from which the leashes are made to a thinner one - up to 0.07 mm. It happens that after this the difference in bite becomes significant. But when using a thin fishing line, fishing should be more delicate.
Tackle. It must be admitted that fishing with the “short nymph” method takes a lot of physical strength, so you need to take the choice of rod and reel very seriously. In addition to the fact that these elements must be of high quality, their combination should contribute to an acceptable balance of the entire tackle.
As you probably already understood, the rod for this method should be long - 2.7 - 3 m. Moreover, it should be 3rd - 5th class and light enough, otherwise you will very quickly get tired of holding it at arm's length . The reel must fit the rod perfectly, otherwise the tackle will be poorly balanced - and again you will quickly get tired.
From my own experience, I was convinced that the reel should be selected directly for the rod, without paying much attention to its markings. There can be many reasons for the imbalance of gear equipped with a rod and reel of the same class. However, gradually the old materials from which they are made are being replaced fishing gear, new ones are coming, more practical and, most importantly, lightweight. Accordingly, one reel of the 3rd - 4th class may turn out to be an order of magnitude lighter than another with the same marking. So my advice to you: if you go to the store to buy a reel, then do not hesitate to take with you the rod with which you plan to use it.
The type of fly line when fishing with the “short nymph” method is practically unimportant, because Only a small part of it is involved in the wiring, and in some cases only the fishing line, to which the “flies” and undergrowth are attached, is involved in fishing.
Unlike the cord, the leader is a much more important element of the equipment. It should have no “memory” so that the equipment is always at the required tension. For this method, short undergrowth is used, which in some cases also serve as bite alarms.
"Long Nymph"
This method is successfully used in very shallow areas of the reservoir, where the fish do not allow the angler to get too close, as well as at significant depths, where it is impossible to use a “short nymph”. By the way, large depths limit the movement of the fisherman, and unlike fishing with a “short nymph”, one has to move mainly downstream.
As for the cord, in this case it is involved much more than in the “short nymph”, and certain requirements are placed on it. Depending on the fishing technique, a variety of cords can be used.
Fishing with a floating line. One of the methods of fishing with a “long nymph” involves the use of a floating line. As for its type, it can be DT (double-cone) or WF (torpedo-shaped). There is no single position on this issue yet - some people like one, while others manage better with the other.
Regarding undergrowth, fans of this fishing method are unanimous in their opinion - it should be braided. Firstly, braided undergrowth has practically no “memory”, and secondly, in some situations it can be used to determine a bite.
In the same way as when fishing with a “short nymph”, the cast is made above the place where the fish are supposed to stay. How high you need to cast is determined by the angler based on the depth and strength of the current at the fishing spot. It is very important that the “front sight” goes deep as quickly as possible. To do this, after casting, you should lay out the line in a loop against the current so that the undergrowth does not float in the water and does not interfere with the free immersion of the “nymph” (or “nymphs”).
Then he lifts the rod tip up to ensure the best contact with the bait. As the current moves the “nymph”, the angler should use his free hand to select the excess line - and at the moment when the “fly” is even with it, the angler should lower the rod.
In the same way as in the first fishing method, you need to wait until the current lifts the bait to the surface of the water so that the “fly” imitates a flying insect. During the lifting process, the “nymph” can be slightly “revitalized” by shaking the tip of the rod.
As in the “short nymph”, this fishing method uses an assembly of several “flies”. Here it is even more justified, because When fishing in strong and deep streams, sometimes you have to use a very large and heavy “nymph” as an end “fly”, which practically plays the role of a sinker. And already small “nymphs” provoke the fish to bite.
Fishing with a sinking line. Some fly fishermen prefer to fish with the "long nymph" method using a fast-sinking line, which allows them to fish larger areas of the reservoir.
The first part of the retrieve is exactly the same as in the previously described options: we let the “nymph” go deep to the required depth, and at the moment when the “fly” reaches the angler, we gradually lower the tip of the rod to the water so that the swim of the bait looks natural. When the rod tip reaches the water, the angler must release part of the free line to continue swimming the fly. When it no longer makes sense to release the line further, the fly fisherman takes a short pause, because at this moment a bite may occur. If there is no bite, then you need to start pulling the “nymph” towards you with short stretches with short pauses between them.
Fishing with a line of neutral buoyancy. The fishing technique using this method differs significantly from those described above. The bait is cast downstream at an angle that would allow the “fly” to be buried to the bottom layers of water. After the “nymph” reaches the place where the fish is supposed to stay, we begin to select the line with short stops. At this moment, the “fly” (or “flies”) play on the current and provoke even a passive predator to grab it.
This method works well in areas with weak currents and in wide, shallow areas, allowing you to achieve positive results even when the fish are not active and all other options fail.
Tackle. When fishing with the “long nymph” method, all the requirements for the quality of rods and reels that we talked about in relation to the “short nymph” are preserved. The only difference is that you need a 3.5 m long rod. It allows you to better manage the line and control the bait.
P. Krapivin
"Sports fishing No. 10 - 2008."
Attention!
An article from the website " Kaliningrad fishing club
Nymph fishing is becoming more and more popular every year. The point here is not to lower the smallest imitation with a tungsten head to the bottom much faster, but to discover new possibilities for successful fishing in new depths.
Initial position
Our salmon find 80% of all insects under water and mainly in the bottom zone of reservoirs. Fish very rarely leave it, chasing the emerging nymph to the middle layers of water. Rafting and returning to the original parking place requires a large expenditure of energy, which can only be compensated for in the event of a mass hatching of insects at the bottom of the reservoir.
Since the current speed is maximum on the surface of the water, our trout look for calmer places at the bottom behind the breakwaters or along the shore, where they find a sufficient amount of food. Stopping sites at the entrance and exit of pools or at depths under the main current are very attractive for fish. The larger the pebbles and stones at the bottom of the reservoir, the more they slow down the flow, causing turbulence in the water, even directed upstream.
So, the norm of behavior of our salmon is to be in places where they do not need to spend a lot of energy to obtain food.
Using a parachute-style circle cast or Switch Cast, the line is cast obliquely, at approximately a 45-degree angle. upstream.
This beautiful brook trout was seduced by a deep-drilled amphipod imitation off the opposite bank behind an underwater rock ridge.
Types of fish
Each type of fish, depending on its nature, has preferred parking places. Thus, brook trout love gullies under the banks, slightly turbid water or a pile of large stones in streams.
Brook trout prefers shaded places among large stones to rest at the bottom of the reservoir.
On the contrary, grayling are more likely to be found on illuminated sandy areas of the bottom or in gullies.
On the contrary, rainbow trout seek communication with their own kind in shallow open areas. Moreover, if there is a fusion of a sufficient number of insects, it can choose even a very fast current as its stopping place and loves funnels formed by the current, where food without much difficulty falls directly into its mouth.
As for grayling, it prefers a uniform flow without turbulence and pebbles of the same size at the bottom of the reservoir. The structure of the grayling's body allows it to stay in fast currents.
Nymph fishing techniques
The end of the cord is folded and the nymph lies near the bite indicator.
Classical
Most often, with this technique, they cast upstream a not too heavy nymph on a monofilament leader, primarily when fishing in small and not deep reservoirs. Since in this case the casting range and rafting distance are small, there is no need to use a bite indicator. By observing the end of the cord, you can promptly determine if a fish is biting or getting caught on the bottom. This technique is good to use when fishing in reservoirs with a large number of stone blocks at the bottom. Tuck Cast casts allow you to quickly adapt to the depth of the reservoir or to the turbulence of the water flow, as well as check the expected locations of fish.
When using small and light nymphs, the length of the undergrowth may well be equal to three times the expected water depth.
Rafting at depth for short distances
If the water in the stream is slightly cloudy and there is a turbulent current, then the Czech nymph fishing technique will be very effective. Here you can fish with a long rod, like tenkara, skipping very heavy nymphs on a short line along the bottom. However, this is no longer classic fly fishing.
If the reservoir is wide and the water in it is clear, then the “French nymph” fishing technique is applicable. Here you will need a super flexible rod and a conical monofilament leader up to 9 meters long. Real professionals use the nymph system - heavy on the end and light on the side leash - (Rig) for almost any fish in the pond. You can hardly believe it, dear reader, but I tried this technique: you feel any bite. However, since it can lure the most wary fish out of their hiding place, I think it is a very dubious way to catch a fish, no matter what.
Active pressure on reservoirs using this method leads to the fact that the fish stops rising to the surface of the water and, having heard even a light slap, hides and stops feeding altogether for several hours.
Some reservoir managers prohibit this technique by introducing a “Dry Fly Only” rule, or limit the length of undergrowth to 3 meters.
As soon as the end of the line is opposite the angler, you need to use a horizontal Swip to place the fishing loop downstream. The faster the current, the narrower the loop should be.
American "Hopper-Dropper" method
In America, where it is allowed to use several flies on one undergrowth, a piece of monofilament fishing line with a slightly weighted nymph at the end is attached to the bend of the hook of a floating imitation grasshopper or stonefly. The length of the fishing line depends on the depth of the reservoir, and the floating “jumper” serves as a bite indicator, although it is attacked by the fish first. It happens that both flies are attacked by two fish at once. Here in Austria, on most reservoirs, the technique of using two flies is prohibited.
After this, you must immediately throw the cord in the opposite direction, i.e. upstream.
Nymph on a sinking cord
In the old days, before the advent of heavy tungsten heads, in order to lower a nymph to depth, a sinking line or a line with a sinking head was used first. We acted on the principle: “if the fish does not come to me (that is, does not float up), then you need to lower yourself to the water level where the fish is standing.” However, such a three-dimensional “trip” to the fish was available only to a few anglers who had the appropriate “feeling” for the speed of the current, the depth of the reservoir and the distance to the fish’s resting place. It should not be forgotten that after casting a sinking line (large body of water) or a line with a sinking end (small rivers) up or downstream, it was only possible to either select the floating line or release it.
Depending on the alloy, you will need to keep throwing the cord over to keep the loop in a "U" or "V" shape for as long as possible.
The nymph on the short undergrowth moved somewhere near the bottom or in the middle layers of the water. In order not to “oversleep” the bite, it was necessary to maintain constant contact with the bait, lifting it and moving it away from the fishing zone. Most often, the bite occurred at the end of the drift, at the moment the nymph stopped and rose to the surface of the water.
The top-class master of sinking line fishing with a simple stonefly nymph imitation was Charlie Brooks. His fishing area was the Madison River in Montana, and I learned a lot from him there. On this 50-mile rapid with a lot of rocks, the fish had only one choice: “either take the bait now or starve!”
At the end of the rafting, the loop straightens, and the nymph breaks away from the day as a result of the pressure of the current on it.
My "Bottom Downstream" nymph fishing method
In case of a bite, the indicator stops or disappears under water, moving against the current. The hook must be done by moving the rod horizontally upstream. In this case, the nymph rushes downstream and securely “anchors” in the corner of the fish’s mouth. The loop of the cord slows down the cutting energy.
I came up with this fishing method many years ago and tried it on pre-Alpine rivers. This was the time when the first graphite fishing rods appeared on the market, which made it possible to cast over long distances. The prerequisites for this method were a uniform flow without turbulence and large boulders at the bottom. Fine-grained bottom substrate and depth differences are ideal places for grayling.
I realized while testing the method that the dark color of the sinking line and the line with a sinking end apparently did not appeal to the picky grayling, as this affected the fishing results. For this reason, I have developed my own undergrowth for small bodies of water. Inside the braided monofilament line was a thread of lead. The undergrowth had blurred outlines and was less noticeable. Twisted green copper wire together with fluorocarbon threads also performed its role well when fishing in shallow waters and with light nymphs.
On larger bodies of water I also use a floating line in combination with a leader, which depending on the depth can be up to 5 meters, as well as a bite indicator. The indicator is fixed in such a way that at the end of the reel it rests against the upper ring of the rod, is released and freely slides down towards the fish, without making it difficult to catch and catch.
Upstream casting
When fishing for “suspicious” places in small bodies of water, you should cast mainly upstream.
I still use this method today on various reservoirs. At the same time, I change the length of the undergrowth depending on the depth, current speed or weight of the nymph. The basic rule is the depth of the reservoir plus 50 percent. At the transition from the cord to the undergrowth, it is necessary to attach an indicator. Without it, on a bright sunny day you may not see a bite, especially if you are standing waist-deep in water and making long casts.
When using long lines at the end of the raft, the nymph sometimes has to apply force to reliably detect the fish.
So, the fishing technique:
1. You make a “parachute” cast diagonally upstream. First you should fish the area closest to you, then gradually move to long distances, since even a floating line can spook the fish.
The long monofilament undergrowth does not unfold completely, and in this form lies on the water. The shorter the undergrowth, the more vertical (to the sky) the cast should be made. It is optimal if the nymph falls almost onto the indicator at the moment when the cord hits the water.
2. The fast current grabs the cord, and a “belly” forms on it. There is no pressure on the nymph, and she goes down unhindered. At the same time, you need to pull the cord through the middle finger of the hand holding the rod and collect it into rings.
3. As soon as the bite indicator is opposite you, this means that the nymph is near the bottom surface. This can be seen from the indicator, the rafting speed of which has noticeably decreased. Now the nymph begins to work. Next, make a horizontal Swip downstream with the end of the rod to form a loop in the shape of the letter “V” with an open top upstream. This must be done in doses so that the indicator does not move from its place as a result of this casting. If you pull the line downstream with too much force, the nymph will rise up, which we should avoid. The stronger the current, the narrower the loop should be. In slower flows, the loop may be larger because the flow pressure is lower.
4. After this, we make several horizontal Swips (mendings) against the flow to maintain the letter “V”. To do this, we use the stock of the previously selected cord. Now the cord floats downstream, and the nymph moves near the surface of the day at a slight angle. It can be raised abruptly from the bottom from time to time for a short time, delaying the release of the cord during mending, after which it will fall again.
5. When biting, the indicator goes under the water obliquely against the current. You make a mistake if you strike as usual, lifting the rod up. In this case, the cord with a loop is only released from the water, but the fish is not hooked. On the contrary, you need to lower the end of the rod to the water and hold it in this position against the current. The hook can be made more effective if you simultaneously pull the cord with your left hand. In this case, the size of the loop lying on the water is reduced, and the indicator jerks downstream.
The nymph also passes this path and is reliably spotted in the corner of its mouth. The current puts pressure on the line loop and reduces the hooking energy, so breakage of the undergrowth and loss of fish occur extremely rarely. This method allows you to successfully fish places near the bottom surface at a distance of more than 25 meters from the angler.
At the end of the rafting, the cord straightens and the nymph floats up. This is the moment when bites occur very often. Finally, the line is pulled out to its head, and another cast is made upstream.
6. I imitate caddis flies and mosquitoes by periodically raising and lowering them. On the contrary, I raise mayfly nymphs slowly but continuously and move them over a greater distance, and then lower them again.
The reward for a deep nymph using the Roman Moser technique is often a beautiful and strong fish, like this “leopard rainbow trout” caught in Ager.
I hope I have been able to clearly and clearly explain my comprehensive nymphing technique and wish you success in using it.
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Fly fishing requires special skill and endurance from the angler. When fishing with light bait, you should take into account many factors that can affect the effectiveness of such fishing. If a nymph is used as a bait, then many fishermen, having used this tackle and not getting a positive result, no longer use it for fly fishing. This is a very big misconception. With proper organization of fishing with a nymph, you can get a high catch, but mastery of managing such bait and tackle requires a long period of training.
What is a nymph
A nymph is the larval stage of an insect. Many species of fish feed on such larval pupae, so using a nymph as bait can be very effective when fly fishing. If you use fly fishing, the nymph is guided evenly at the surface of the water, and even large fish make bites during such fishing.
Artificial larvae are made in various shapes, sizes and colors. They imitate the type of insect that fish hunt in their natural habitat.
Gear selection
First of all, you should choose the right main part. In order to successfully catch trout or grayling, you will need nymphs that imitate caddisfly or dragonfly larvae. A high-quality imitation larva has legs and a color that matches the type of larva. Some nymphs can reach lengths of over 40mm, but the average size for catching these fish is 12mm. Many artificial nymphs have a holographic surface that changes color depending on the light. Beads can be used in the design of artificial bait, the shine of which can attract fish from a considerable distance.
To catch perch and pike perch, you can use nymphs painted in very bright colors. This fish is not very picky and will attack any shiny and bright object. A fisherman who uses fly fishing must have a strategic supply of various baits. It is not always possible to judge the food preferences of fish at a given time even by ripped open stomachs, therefore, if the bite is not strong enough, it is necessary to experiment with the shape and size of the bait.
To make nymph fishing easy and enjoyable, you need to choose the right fly fishing rod. The material for a fly fishing rod can be:
- fiberglass;
- carbon fiber;
- glued bamboo.
Fiberglass can only be used in the process of mastering this type of fishing. Low strength and increased vibration of the blank do not encourage experienced fishermen to purchase such a blank. The high weight of such a rod is also not its advantage when the rod is constantly held in the hands of the angler. Carbon fiber is a modern, lightweight, but expensive material. A blank made of carbon fiber has a low weight and a high tensile strength, so if fishing with a nymph becomes a constant hobby, then purchasing a rod made of this material is a must.
Laminated bamboo is the most expensive material for the production of fly fishing rods. Such products are made by hand and have unique characteristics.
The length of the rod usually ranges from 2.4 to 2.7 meters. This rod is convenient for fishing both from the shore and while in a boat. Many fishermen practice wading nymph fishing. The weight of a high-quality fly fishing rod should not be higher than 150 g; only with such a weight of the blank can you comfortably carry out fishing for a long time.
The action of a rod for fly fishing with a nymph in the absence of wind and the light weight of the bait should be slow.
In this way, you can effectively use the elasticity of the entire length of the rod when casting, which contributes to a longer and more accurate delivery of a very light bait. When using heavy bait, a fast rod action is more suitable. In this case, it is possible to cast the bait over a considerable distance even in a headwind.
A fly fishing reel should not be heavy, otherwise the superiority of a quality lightweight rod will be minimized. The weight of a reel for a fly fishing rod usually does not exceed 150 g. The reels are small in size due to the absence of the need for winding large quantities fishing line To equip the fishing rod, only high-quality products are used, perfectly balanced, with a gear ratio of at least 1/5.
For nymph fishing, a cord with a diameter of 0.12 mm is used. With skillful handling, this thickness is sufficient even for catching large trout. If a fast action rod is used, the diameter can be increased to 0.15 mm.
How to fish with a nymph
For effective fishing fish for a nymph, you should choose the right reservoir where such larvae are the main diet of the fish. This type of fishing is most effective in shallow waters with medium currents. Retrieving the bait against the current is not effective. Maximum results can be achieved by casting the nymph against the current. When the larva floats freely downstream, it can be slightly tugged to provoke the fish to bite. If the wiring tactics are chosen correctly, then fish are caught very well with this method of bait animation.
A less effective way is to guide the nymph across the current. During wiring, it is also necessary to use small twitches, and the wiring speed should be low.
On a body of water where there is no current at all, bait can be cast in any direction. Good results can be obtained if you cast the nymph to the opposite bank of the reservoir, which is covered with hanging tree branches. Fish are found in such places quite often and feed on insects that have fallen into the water.
Good results can be obtained if you cast the nymph to the opposite bank of the reservoir, which is covered with hanging tree branches.
To successfully fly fish, nymphs must be attractive in appearance and closely resemble the natural larvae on which underwater inhabitants feed. If you use high-quality light tackle, you can expect a very large catch.
The fish swims along the bottom
It’s no secret if I say that most of the time fish feed in the middle and bottom layers of water. After all, there is many times more food at the bottom: various nymphs of mayflies, stoneflies, mosquitoes and caddisflies and other insects, in addition, there are permanent residents there, which include amphipods, snails and worms, plus to all this you can add all the drifting “bio -garbage", starting from dead insects and ending with caviar, which itself floats into the mouth of the fish. The largest specimens were caught by me using a nymph and therefore this method remains my favorite
Mainly feeding by nymphs occurs near the very bottom and one of the difficult tasks is to deliver our fly there, and the second is to make an effective retrieve, and if we learn to do this, then success will certainly be on our side. I studied quite a few types of equipment, techniques for fishing with a nymph, and one of them turned out to be the most effective, which I called the “Bouncing Nymph.” With this style of fishing, the flies remain in the fish’s field of vision much longer than with classic nymph fishing techniques.
This method will be of interest to both beginning fly fishermen and experienced fishermen, who will be able to appreciate all its advantages, because it works almost everywhere.
The "bouncing nymph" method is especially effective when using small flies and when there are picky trout that hang at the end of the stream.ADVANTAGES OF THE “BOUNGING NYMPH” METHOD
When fishing with a nymph on a loose line, it takes a lot of time for the fly to get into the “biting zone” near the river bottom. Having reached the bottom, the nymph does not remain there for long before it begins to rise at the end of the retrieve. When you use weights to solve this problem, the rig quickly catches on the bottom.
The technique of fishing with a High-stick nymph with a high rod is accompanied by a slight slack in the line. With experience, you will be able to hold the nymph at the desired depth and quickly determine the bite, but you will not be able to effectively fish at a long distance. The fly retrieve is short, so this method only works in fast, shallow water, where you can get close to the fish. The slight tension of the line, characteristic of the High-stick technique, sometimes alarms picky fish.
When fishing with the "bouncing nymph" method, the weight is at the end of the leader, and two flies are located above on short leashes. Thanks to this, the flies remain “suspended” above the bottom, and their speed will not be very different from the speed of movement of natural prototypes in a slowly flowing layer of water near the bottom. This method allows you to keep your flies near the bottom two to three times longer than other nymphing methods because the flies sink quickly and do not rise to the surface until the very end of the retrieve.
Since there is no hook at the end of the leader, the rig also reduces the number of snags on the bottom. Several small pellets placed one after another, or other loading options (see pictures below) instead of one large pellet, reduce the likelihood of the weight getting stuck between stones and make it easier to adjust the weight of the load. An Overhand knot tied at the end of the leash will prevent the weight from slipping.
The “bouncing nymph” fishing method “works” on rivers with a pebble bottom and a moderate to fast current. The method involves installing weights at the end of the leash and “suspension” of flies above the bottom surface at the level of the fished objectPREPARATION OF EQUIPMENT
The distance between the foam or yarn strike indicator and the bottom weights should be about three times the depth of the water where I'm fishing, so I use leaders that are 8 to 16 feet long. You can fish the bouncing nymph method without a bite indicator, but it works better when using visual guidance.
To start, I take a 5-7 foot tapered leader and tie on a 3 foot leader ranging from 3X to 6X. A long, thin leader allows the nymphs to reach the bottom faster and stay there, since the current will not push the flies to the top. Use a thin leader, taking into account, of course, the size of the flies, the water conditions and the size of the fish you expect to catch.
The distance between the leaders to which the flies are tied should be from 6 to 12 inches. To prevent the flies from getting tangled, short leashes, 2-5 inches long, are used. The bottom leader is located 6-12 inches from the weight. To make a leader using a Double Surgeon's Knot or Blood Knot, tie two lengths of fishing line. Remove the top end of the line and leave the bottom end long enough to tie on the fly.
This equipment is designed in such a way that its part, located between the weight and the bite indicator, drifts with the current in a taut state, and the cord between the tip of the rod and the bite indicator remains loose. Thanks to this, the advantages of two methods of nymph fishing are combined - with a tensioned line and with a loose line. The stretched part of the rig drifts slower than the surface layers of water due to weights dragging along the bottom. This stretched part of the rig transmits bites better than standard rigs where there is often slack between the flies and the bite indicator.
The indicator bounces and jerks as the weights are pulled along the bottom, but the rig should not catch on the bottom if you use the correct number of weights. Flies should not drag along the bottom; they should drift 2-12 inches off the bottom, so don't use loaded flies.
The bouncing nymph method uses a 9-foot grade 4-5 rod with appropriate floating line. Lighter lines are preferable if you can cast heavy rigs with them. With stronger rods and heavier lines, casting a weighted rig is better, but the stiffness and drag of a heavier line reduces its effectiveness in achieving natural drift of lures.
OPEN LOOP CAST
Casting a bouncing nymph rig is more difficult than casting a dry fly. You won't cast a weighted rig unless you use a wide open loop, throwing your indicator and flies high. Casting with a rod tip that produces a tight loop is fine for dry flies and will only add to the problems if you tie an indicator, weights and multiple flies to the leader.
It is important to start casting without any slack between the rod tip and the rig. If there is any slack in the system, pick out the line or let the stream pull on it to remove the slack before you cast. By using the resistance of the water to help load the rod, you can cast your rig upstream in one smooth motion.
If you must make a dry cast to lengthen the line, pause at the end of each stroke to allow the leader to straighten and the weights to reach the end of the line before you begin the next stroke. Stopping the rod suddenly, creating a tight loop when fishing with a dry fly, will lead to tangling of the rig, so you must learn to stop the rod slowly and also slowly begin the next movement so that the casting is smoother and the rig does not get tangled.
Most often I cast slanted upstream and the flies drift downstream, but you can cast straight upstream or create slack in the line between the rod tip and the indicator so that the line doesn't pull the indicator in any unnatural direction.
Try to keep the indicator so that it is lower downstream than the flies. Then the undergrowth between the indicator and the flies will remain taut and help instantly transmit any bite. The indicator jerks and flutters when the weights touch bottom, so do not hook until the indicator stops or you see something unusual in its movement. Often a tight line and the tension created by the indicator will lead to the fish being hooked on its own.
When fishing in fast currents or in deep places, you should use a Tuck Cast 1 cast so that the nymphs sink to the bottom faster. Combine Tuck Cast casting with baiting for the perfect fly drift. Mend upstream to create more slack or eliminate downward movement of the midline, which could pull the indicator downstream too quickly.
When you are manipulating all the line to the indicator, shake some line through the guides to increase the fly's drift distance. As the indicator floats downstream, you can also lower the rod tip and “shake” the line to “stretch” the drift. If the weight catches on the bottom too often, then throw the middle part of the line downstream to speed up the retrieve speed.
The bouncing nymph method does not replace existing nymph fishing methods. This is just another effective way of fishing that increases your arsenal of tactics. The new method works best on gravel riffles and rapids up to six feet deep with moderate to fast current. A weak current makes it difficult to get a good “bounce” of the bait, but you can fish with it if you reduce the weight of the weights and the size of the bite indicator.
BOTTOM WEIGHTS
The "bouncing nymph" method can be used in cases where the bottom of the reservoir is covered with algae, in rivers with large stones on the bottom and even in lakes. On a bottom overgrown with algae, I do not use equipment with pellets. I make a loop at the bottom of the leader and connect it to a piece of lead core trolling line in a loop-to-loop manner. Tighten the knot by pulling both ends, and the steel-core cord will not slip off. Lead cored cord lengths ranging from 3 to 18 inches in length can be used. Then the lead-core cord will slide easily over the algae.
In areas with large rocks, use smaller pellets one after the other, steel core cord, soft weights, or twisted lead strips instead of one large pellet to prevent the weight from getting stuck between the rocks.
A weight borrowed from steelhead anglers called a slinky is also good for fishing areas with large rocks. The weight is a braided nylon parachute line from which the core has been removed. Insert a pellet into the hollow braid and melt the ends with a lighter. This flexible arrangement of weights easily glides over large rocks and uneven bottoms. Use a carabiner with a clasp to quickly change the weight and prevent the leader from twisting as the weight rolls along the bottom.
The Toobies-Shot is a flexible plastic tube that fits over the leader and is then clamped with non-toxic pellets. This weight is suitable for locations where the use of lead weights is not permitted by law. Tin, bismuth or tungsten weights are also good. Get used to the idea of lead-free fishing because the day will come when it becomes law. If increasing the weight of the equipment by adding weights is not allowed (as, for example, in some reservoirs where fishing can only be done with “clean” fly fishing), instead of a weight you should use a heavy nymph with a curved hook.
WEIGHT OPTIONS
Twisted lead strip
Tungsten heads fixed with a toothpick
Shots in a tube
pellets
Removable pellets
Soft cargo
Weights in braided cord
Lead Core Cord
Large weighted nymph with curved hook
EXTREME LOMI METHOD FOR A NYMPH
The extreme nymphing method is a variation of the "bouncing nymph" method for catching fish in depths ranging from 2 to 20 feet or more. Where the usual method of nymph fishing is not possible, the extreme method gives excellent results. Depending on your experience, you may lose the ability to fish using standard nymphing techniques in rivers that are 4 to 8 feet deep. And while the bouncing nymph method works in depths up to 6 feet, it is difficult to fish deeper waters unless you use an extreme fishing rig that can catch trout in rivers up to 20 feet deep and lakes up to 30 feet deep.
For extreme nymph fishing, I use the same rig as for the bouncing nymph method, but do not use a bite indicator and replace the line with a thinner one. For line, I use Cortland 444 Lazerline Running Line, which has a 0.022-inch diameter and a 12-pound breaking strength Dacron inner core, or Rio Powertlex Core Shooting Line, which has a 0.024-inch diameter and a monofilament core. The Rio cord is stiffer and less prone to tangling. With a sufficient weight of weight at the end of the leader, such lines “cut through” the water and create less “drag” along the bottom than a regular floating line. The coating, like on a floating cord, ensures normal handling and easy handling of this cord.
Such light, thin lines do not load the rod like regular lines. Using the weight of the rig, cast the Chuck-and-Duck Cast 2 and after moving forward, “shoot” the line. Extra-heavy equipment will quickly “deliver” flies and thin floating line to the bottom of the river.
If you are using a rig of sufficient weight, you can also cast Pendulum Cast. First, pull 20 to 80 feet of line from the reel. Let the rig hang freely under the tulip. Then, swinging the rig like a pendulum and using a single pull, release the cord so that its trajectory overlaps the area where you want to “put” the rig. This is similar to spin casting, but with a larger initial line release and a single pull during the cast, increasing line speed for a longer cast. The equipment has a high speed at the moment of casting and will easily pull the cord behind it. To prevent the cord from getting tangled, it is better to use a special basket.
Cast diagonally upstream. Hold the rod tip up and you should feel the weights bouncing on the bottom. If the weights do not touch the bottom, increase their weight. If the rig catches on the bottom too often, reduce the weight of the sinker. “Belly” on the line is inevitable, but choosing the right weight allows you to get a good bounce.
According to some anglers, the "bouncing nymph" method does not apply to fly fishing because the rig is heavier than the line. Nevertheless, this method is allowed in most bodies of water intended only for fly fishing, and certainly not prohibited in any body of water that allows fishing only with artificial bait. It is effective because it allows you to fish in deep places in strong currents where it is impossible to fish with a nymph in any other way.
NYMPH FISHING IN STANDING WATER
Use a regular rig for bouncing nymph fishing in the shallows of lakes; cast, wait until the rig reaches the bottom, and then slowly begin to retrieve the line. The flies, as if suspended above the bottom, will move towards the shoreline. Choose the cord slowly or quickly to imitate the movement of natural insects. The porous materials used in the design of the flies (back or wing buds) “help” the nymphs “hang” slightly to the side of the main undergrowth. Weights moving along the bottom raise turbidity, which does not scare away the fish. On the contrary, it seems to arouse the interest of trout and perch. These predators approach to explore the cloud of turbidity, see the "suspended" flies and greedily grab them.
When the lake has fish feeding in 5-30 feet of water, use extreme fishing from a boat or inflatable raft. Shoot the line using the method described above, then shoot a few more meters of line through the rings and let the rig sink to the bottom. Watch the cord carefully as it goes into the water. The tension caused by the sinking weights keeps the line taut from the rod tip to the weights. When the weights reach the bottom, the tension will weaken and the cord will sag. It's not unusual for a fish to bite as the nymphs descend, so keep an eye on line action.
When the weights touch the bottom, begin to slowly pull out the cord. Again, the weights will raise the turbidity, which will pique the fish's interest. In addition to nymphs, when fishing with this method, you can successfully use imitations of leeches, crayfish, worms, as well as other streamers.
In even deeper areas (20 -60 feet) where trout feel safe, this rig can also be used to move flies up and down directly under a boat or raft.
I love the aesthetics of traditional fly fishing, but sometimes I just want to fish. There's nothing quite as sublime as dry fly fishing during a mayfly hatch, but a new 'bouncing nymph' technique will get you caught more fish s. Give it a try and you might be surprised at what you learn.
Larry Tullis is a fly fishing instructor based in Ogden, Utah, USA, and the author of six books, including nymphing strategies (Lyons Press, 2001).
photos and drawings from the archives of Fly Fisherman magazine
Short nymph.
The fisherman has every reason to try to lower his fly deeper under the fish’s nose. To do this, there are 2 possibilities - make the fly heavier and (or) use special tackle and equipment. Despite the similarity between some methods of fishing with a heavy fly, one of them can quite legitimately be distinguished as an independent species. The short nymph method developed in southern Poland in the late 70s and later became known as Polish Nymph or Short Nymph. It owes its fame to the successes of the Poles at world championships, but, despite its undeniable effectiveness, the method has many critics, especially among supporters of the beauty of classical fishing methods. Obviously, an unusually heavy nymph is not suitable for classical methods of presenting a fly. Some associated the heyday of the short nymph with times when there was no other opportunity to quickly lower the fly to the bottom and predicted the extinction of the method against the background of the appearance of lines with sinking ends, heavy undergrowth, etc. But it turned out to be not so easy to displace this extremely effective method of fishing, primarily because no other gives the opportunity to control the fly so well.
In addition, at first glance, a monotonous and boring method of practice gradually acquires nuances and becomes interesting. That is, there are reasons to try fishing with a short nymph. In addition to purely biological factors that press fish to the bottom, one can recall the fishing pressure that discourages fish from interested in the surface. On many rivers with uneven flows, pronounced jets, and corridors among algae, this is the most convenient way of fishing. And often these rivers are by no means of a trout-harius character. In addition, if it doesn’t bite, then a short nymph is the last chance to catch a fish. It is not suitable only for standing or deep water; why will be clear below.
The short nymph as a fishing method has two main features that distinguish it from others. The first is unusually heavy flies. The second is specific wiring. A fly weighted with lead or tin quickly breaks through the layer of fast current and reaches the bottom. But because of her weight, she is not able to move naturally. Therefore, you have to hold it suspended and imitate natural drift by moving the tip of the fishing rod. This explains the unusual wiring technique and the layout of the tackle, in which the leash and its length are important and there is almost no need for a cord. You have to fish literally under the tip of the fishing rod. From the outside, everything looks elementary. The fisherman, standing waist-deep in the water, casts flies on a short line a little higher upstream and, holding the fishing rod in an outstretched hand, watches them drift. Then he throws the flies up again. But each of these movements has its own task and subtleties.
Firstly, the movement of flies should resemble natural drift as closely as possible. Lateral drift is unnatural and suspicious, so the cast is directed upward rather than across to the current.
Secondly, you need complete control over the fly. When fishing with a wet fly or nymph using classical methods along and against the current, for each bite there are several attacks that go unnoticed by us. The reason is that first the fly floats on the fish, and while the leash is stretched, the bait is spat out. The bends of the leash and undergrowth also significantly dampen the sensitivity of the gear.
With this type of wiring, any touch to the front sight is instantly felt as a delay in the leash or a blow. Hook! At the same time, please note that you have to hurry the flies even in fast water; the leash with flies, stretched almost vertically, goes, slightly behind, behind the tip of the rod. Although, of course, the faster the current, the faster you have to work.
If we feel with our hands the periodic impacts of the fly on the bottom, then everything is done as it should.
We select the length of the leash 15-20 cm more than the expected depth and correct the position of the flies at the bottom, raising or slightly lowering the tip. The distance of this part of the controlled drift is determined by the length of the arm and fishing rod. When the hand, having described an arc, stops at the bottom, the current continues to carry the flies further and lifts them up. This is already an uncontrolled process, and it is recommended to end the short pause with a blind hook, thus starting the movement of a new cast.
All deviations in the wiring, in the movement of flies and the leader can be considered as errors, or as modifications of the method, whatever you like. If it bites, it means we did the right thing.
Gradually moving along or across the river, with such movements we systematically fish interesting sections of the river. It is clear that the fly that remains in working condition at the bottom longer collects more fish. And in order to increase the effective drift distance, it is better to use relatively long fishing rods, 2.75-3 m or even more. Rhythmic but monotonous movements with an outstretched arm are tiring. The shoulder gets tired quite quickly, and more than ever you begin to pay attention to the weight of your stick. You feel better if you have a rigid, light and long fishing rod. Undergrowth is not needed, and the cord does not play a noticeable role here. Usually 25-30 cm hangs from the tip as an indicator of the movement of the leash. We fix the cord with a finger, and it is better to loosen the reel brake in advance.
The length of the leash is determined by the usual depth of wading fishing, that is, 1.50-1.80 m is quite enough for fishing any accessible ditch at the bottom.
But it’s worth thinking about the thickness of the fishing line. The thinner it is, the easier it is to guide flies and the easier it is to spot a bite. A thick sail sails in the water, your hand “loses” flies, but you can save them if they get hooked. For our grayling and trout, a diameter of 0.14-0.16 mm is enough. Let the leader for the lower fly be 80-100 cm long, for a hanging, lighter fly - 40-60 cm.
If there is a ring, the overall upper part can be made of thicker fishing line 0.18-0.20 mm. The same tackle is suitable for catching pod, cheese and chub. For barbel, these diameters can, of course, be increased. Surprisingly, many fish are not shy when you catch them by wading. This is understandable, when it comes to grayling with its specialized narrowly focused fenian, it may not pay attention to events on the sides. But standing in the water, I noticed more than once that trout were biting well behind me, even though I had just walked “over their heads,” waving the streamer. Apparently, the unevenness of the bottom and the fast current reduce the ability of the fish to orientate and create the appearance of safety in shelters between stones. This applies not only to salmon, but also to ordinary white fish, which, standing at the bottom, even in the clearest water, allows you to come within shooting distance with a short nymph. .
But what exactly should you shoot with? After all, malicious fish sometimes very carefully select the organisms they need in the drift. And some of our common caddis flies are not at all inclined to drift due to their heavy houses; many mayfly larvae live buried in the bottom and do not want to appear on the surface. Other organisms are generally inactive and do not get into trouble. Therefore, it is better to imitate “restless” gammarus and free-living caddisflies on the hook, which, other things being equal, are more inclined to drift. Flies in the form of a shitik left without a house and other similar larvae work well. Their average size is 1.0-1.5 cm on hooks N8-14, in different color shades. In my opinion, natural greenish-gray, bronze-beige colors inspire more confidence. In muddy water, the fish actively picks up white and light yellow nymphs. Although some flies turn out to be effective, despite the fact that they do not have any natural analogues. A purely fantasy nymph “pink” is made very simply from white rabbit dubbing, wound around the body with red thread. In the water, the impression of a delicate translucent, pink larva is created. Imitations of pinkish worms on large hooks with a curved shank and a wide hook look interesting and, they say, are very effective. This is a kind of secret weapon for catching barbel and trout. The common features of most flies suitable for fishing with the short nymph method are their heavy weight, plus a segmented body on a hook with a bent shank. And success largely depends on the correct color shade and, of course, on the correct wiring.