Lofoten Norway. Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway. Walk from Reine to Hamna

Lofoten Islands of Norway... This place has attracted the attention of many tourists, and for more than one century. Novels and stories were written about Lofoten, poems and many paintings were written, and even sculptures were sculpted, looking at the mesmerizing rocky peaks. Here you can take an unforgettable whale safari, as well as see the Maelstrom - the most dangerous whirlpools in the world. Active recreation enthusiasts can conquer more than one peak, go down a mountain river, ride mountain bikes, and also contemplate the beauty of the northern lights in winter.

Lofoten is a chain of seven islands with narrow straits, covering an area of ​​1227 square meters. km, home to a small population of 25 thousand people. The climate is quite mild, thanks to the Gulf Stream, and even in the winter months in the southern parts of the islands the temperature does not fall below zero.

Farmer's paradise and fishing treasure

In addition to all of the above, the Lofoten Islands are considered a paradise for farming. In 1994, Lofoten lambs gained worldwide fame and were recognized as the best. And fishing lovers will certainly appreciate the wealth of fish, mainly cod and herring, in the local waters. After all, it is here that cod returns to spawn after migrating to the Barents Sea.

The local population is mainly engaged in fishing, and cod harvesting methods have been preserved to this day, dating back to Viking times. In recent years, there has been a tendency to organize fishing trips for tourists - this is how local residents manage to earn more with less effort, especially since the flow of tourists here is constant.

Maelstrom Whirlpool

The Lofoten Islands are also popular thanks to the most dangerous whirlpool in the world - Maelstrom(Maelström - Moskenstraumen), which is also called the navel of the earth. The difference in water level in the whirlpool can be 4 meters. This natural phenomenon occurs when the North Atlantic Current collides with a tidal wave. Many learned about the whirlpool from the story of Edgard Poe, and about Lofoten from the novel “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea” by Jules Verne.

You can admire killer whales only in the cold season - from October to February. Similar excursions are organized near the archipelago on large ships and even on rubber boats. Adult whales are majestic and graceful, with their impressive size - up to 9 meters in length and weighing up to 10 tons. Unique photographs in which you can capture the huge carcasses of black and white killer whales jumping out of the water can be remembered for many years.

What to visit in Lofoten Islands?

Cozy fishermen's rorbu houses, cottages, or apartments - no matter where you stay, you will find a lot of interesting things to do in Lofoten.

Our first day:

1. The area of ​​the archipelago is 1227 km², and its population is 24.5 thousand people. The main occupations of the residents are fishing and sheep breeding. Norway is generally the least populated country in Europe. On average, it has 12 square kilometers of territory per inhabitant. The population of all of Norway is approximately a quarter of the population of Moscow. Can you imagine how much space they have for life and freedom?


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2. Lofoten (Old Scand. Lófót) – sometimes confused, incorrectly called “Lofonten”. The word consists of two parts: ló "trot" and Old Norse fótr "foot". Apparently, the shape of the islands resembled the foot of a lynx. The photo shows the beautiful and unique Hemnøy.

3. Cod fishing has been going on in the Lofoten Islands for about a thousand years, especially in winter, when cod migrate south from the Barents Sea and gather in the Lofoten Islands to spawn. The caught cod is redirected to Bergen, a large city in southwestern Norway, and from there it travels to the rest of Europe. These poles, large structures, are used for drying cod. In summer, unfortunately, they are mostly empty - and you can only see dried fish in the museum...


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4. Near the fjords, sheds (called “stabbur”) are placed on vertical logs for drying and storing fish, for storing fishing equipment and boats, as well as a bathhouse with an open hearth (“badstue”) and a barn for drying grain. Traditional buildings have a gable roof. On top of the boardwalk it was previously covered with birch bark and turf. Now, of course, new materials are winning, but previously almost all residents did this. And old houses (and many have survived from the century before last) can often be seen with a whole forest on the roof. The log houses were sheathed on the outside and inside with vertically placed boards. The platbands, cornices, and sometimes even the ridges of the roofs of a residential building (stuve) were covered with elaborate carvings.

5. Stuve, painted in traditional red, green or blue, with white platbands and ends of the log houses, still look very picturesque against the backdrop of the harsh Lofoten peaks. And fishing villages are located along the shores of Lofoten, with characteristic fishermen's huts (“rorbu”).

6. Lofoten are the oldest rock formations on Earth, their age is approximately 3 billion years. Their current appearance was formed 10,000 years ago, when the last Ice Age ended.

7. The most popular islands, Eustvogey, Vestvogey, Flakstad and Moskenes, are a favorite holiday destination for writers and artists, as well as all lovers of outdoor activities. Most Norwegians come here from southern cities just to relax, go fishing, and hunt.

8. The bridges of Norway are amazing: with wide spans, massive, but at the same time looking very light - they lie between fjords and creeks. This, of course, is not the famous Stortesand Bridge, which goes into the sky, but it is also beautiful. At this place I remember an interesting incident that happened to my friend, Dimka, at this fork. We jumped ahead a little, and he was catching up with us - and drove off in the wrong direction (right in the direction of this bridge: apparently he liked the landscape). And all I could do from the mountain was watch how my group was going in one direction, and Dimka was going in the other. Well, never mind, Sasha then “stomped in” - he caught up with Dima...


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9. At any stop there is a rest area, observation decks and bird watching towers, as well as rest houses for cyclists and a cafe. Some vacation spots resemble entire architectural monuments, fitting well into the landscape (straight, sharp lines, wood and concrete). And some are simpler:

10. The Lofoten Islands are also called "Lofotveggen" or "Lofoten Wall". The archipelago looks like a closed wall, about 100 kilometers long and 800-1000 meters high.


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11. It seems to me that thanks to fish production for the whole of Norway and exports, which the Vikings have been doing since the 15th century, the country is now the richest in the world (per person). Traditionally, dried Lofoten cod is supplied to Spain, Portugal and Italy, where it can be found in abundance on restaurant menus. Maybe this is because fishing requires a lot of patience, work and careful attitude to natural resources? Speaking of caring for nature: fish are now raised like this, in enclosures. Although all around is the open sea with “inexhaustible riches”...

12. In general, getting around the Lofoten Islands by bike is quite easy, but during the high season the roads were full of cars, caravans and trailers. Everyone is very decent, but the roads are narrow and sometimes there was a traffic jam behind us. The snow-white beaches of Lofoten are very good. You step on the sand - and it seems as if there is snow under your feet... The soul rests when you see the azure sea, mountain peaks, and feel the soft sand.

13. In Lofoten you will find many cozy “rorbu” cottages. Initially, these cottages simply served as overnight accommodation for fishermen. In fishing villages you can see large buildings near the pier ("sjøhus"), where fishermen once stored their catch. You can stay at a campsite, hotel or youth hostel. The prices are quite reasonable (by Norwegian standards, of course;)). So, renting a rorba will cost about 100 euros per day.

14. During the cycling route you constantly have to gain altitude. And on a boring gray day (and there were most of them), it sometimes makes you plunge into your thoughts, somehow forget about the surrounding mountains, fjords and valleys... And in this place there were wonderful blueberry fields. And another interesting thing: everywhere in wooded areas there are fences and obstacles on the road for sheep. Obstacles are pipes laid in such a way that the sheep will fall through with their hooves, which should discourage them from continuing the walk. And the fences seem to be energized (I didn’t want to try).

15. Sometimes the weather gets really bad and you feel like a troll is watching you from the dark...

16. The wonders of Lofoten don’t end there: along the way there are very picturesque lakes and rivers. Once I saw a sign at a tourist parking lot with the inscription “You can drink water in all bodies of water in Norway.”

17. The theme for the story is low tide on the fjord. Of course, it greatly spoils the “photogenic” quality of the place: brown algae, remains of ship parts, gray sand instead of smooth water. But, as it turns out, you can ride a bike through the fjord at low tide! So I took a bicycle with wide tires from Denis and went driving around the fjord at sunset (it’s 2 am, almost polar day). This is how our first day in Lofoten ended.

18. And the next day the route was like this:

19. And again the weather was bad. It happens: gray clouds hang over the islands and don’t want to leave. It saved me that my comrades waited for me a little, and I managed to catch the gap. Apparently, this is the frame of an old ship, abandoned on the shore by a storm.

20. The Lofoten Islands are one of those places in Norway where life is intertwined with nature, with the sea. According to National Geographic magazine, Lofoten is the third most attractive island in the world.


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21. If you are traveling by car, you can drive through Finland to the Arctic. Then you can look at the northernmost point of Europe - the North Cape... And the best way to return is along the coast, through all the fjords of Norway.

22. Winter in Lofoten is quite warm, despite the fact that the islands are located beyond the Arctic Circle. Such high winter temperatures are typical for the islands due to the warm Golf Stream and its derivatives: the North Atlantic Current and the Norwegian Current. On the islands of Røst and Värøy, in winter the temperature is most often above zero, which is generally not typical for areas located above the Arctic Circle. In summer it is quite cool there, but dry. The average July temperature is +15°C. Strong winds often blow.

23. The midnight sun does not set over the area in the summer. In the Lofoten Islands, this phenomenon can be observed from May 25 to July 17. It was in the first days that we found ourselves in these “wonderful” round the clock. This is terrible for photography - no sunsets, no sunrises, just a constant gloom in the sky.

24. And this is a riddle for you. I am announcing a competition to guess the purpose of this structure. The answer is in the next part of the story about the Northern Islands of Norway.


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25. I found an interesting story about Lofoten on norse.ru:
The captain told us that all fishermen are very superstitious and respect omens:
- You can’t start poutine on Friday. Never.
- you can't whistle.
- no waffle cakes.
- never say the word "horse".
- halibut cannot be called halibut.
- when a black bird lands on the mast, you must cut off all the nets and swim back. Here Harald remarked: “I didn’t do it, but my father did.”
- for successful fishing, you must definitely spend the night with a beautiful girl. Here the captain sighed: “It was like that before...”.
(http://norse.ru/geography/norway/lofoten.html)

26. One of the churches in the suburbs of Svolvaer, on the shore of the fjord.


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27. Near the church lay “Trollstein” - the troll stone. Talking about Norway and not mentioning trolls is unforgivable.
Legends about trolls originated in Scandinavia. According to legends, they frightened local residents with their size and witchcraft. According to other beliefs, trolls lived in castles and underground palaces. In mythology, trolls are not only huge giants similar to ogres, but also small, gnome-like creatures that usually live in caves (such trolls were usually called forest trolls). The details of the image of trolls in folklore depend greatly on the country. Sometimes they are described differently even in the same legend. Most often, trolls are ugly creatures, from three to eight meters tall (sometimes they can change their size), almost always an attribute of the troll’s appearance in the images is a very large nose. They have the nature of a stone (they are born from a rock), they turn to stone in the sun. They eat meat. They often eat people. They live alone in caves, forests or under bridges. Trolls under bridges are somewhat different from ordinary ones. In particular, they can appear in the sun, do not eat people, respect money, are greedy for human women (they do not see them as food). There are legends about the children of trolls and human women. (wiki)
With the Christianization of Norway, the trolls had a new enemy - Olav the Saint. Olav had a special gift: he could control mountains and rocks, and knew how to turn trolls to stone. Subsequently, the giants tried to fight the churches.

28. There are stories that trolls sometimes appear among people in human form. Usually a person cannot immediately guess who he is dealing with. However, it is recommended that if he suspects something is wrong, he should under no circumstances shake the stranger’s hand. They can also take the form of a dog, a black goat, or a friendly man with a tail. The main thing is to know how to handle them. First, keep your name a secret. Do not accept treats from the troll and run away so that your tracks form a cross with the furrows of the plow on the arable land. If you meet him in a gorge, invite the troll to follow you to the light: he will turn to stone when the bright sun appears.
When you drive along the roads of Norway, clouds gather over the mountains and darkness sets in - you seriously begin to think about trolls...

29. Trolls often kidnapped people. However, folklore tradition provided several ways to defend against or resist trolls. First of all, this is, of course, the Christian cross, the sound of church bells and everything else that is associated with the Christian religion. If it was necessary to free a troll captive from the mountains, then the bells had to be rung. If the church was so far away that the bell could not be heard in the mountains, then the bell was brought to the mountains and rung there. Later in Moscow, Sasha even gave me a wonderful book about Trolls, which very clearly describes ways to combat them. The photo is just about the falling twilight on the fjord:


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30. And another photo of the fading light:

31. Almost nothing is grown on the northern lands. Norwegians simply cut the grass from the fields and sell it for livestock feed. We have never seen grain fields...

32. In one day in Lofoten you can visit a huge number of picturesque places. In each of them you want to stay at least for the whole week. Maximum - for life.


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33. Sometimes it is not at all clear where the lake ends and the fjord begins. Until you taste the water or look at the shores, you won’t know. Sometimes the rivers mix with water from the fjord.

34. Our second day has come to an end. There don’t seem to be any trolls around, so we go to bed. Although the desire to photograph the troll is still alive. And our next day began:

35. This day has so far broken all records for inclement and boring weather. Low tide again on the fjord, a giant desert.

36. In spring, millions of birds flock to the coast of Norway, on their way north to their polar nesting grounds. In places like Jæren, south of Stavanger, you can spot loons, grebes, herons and other wild birds. On a boring gray day, I decided to organize a photo hunt for these birds. What kind of bird this is, I don’t know.

37. By the way, this photo hunt was my first; only before the trip I bought a Nikkor 70-300.

38. In July and early August, the banks of Lofoten are overgrown with grass and fireweed. On a rainy day they add color well to the landscape.


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39. Norwegian tunnels are very famous. How much work does it take to build so many tunnels for the convenience of its citizens? It seems that if some grandmother from a fishing village wants to go for berries without crossing the pass, the government will build a tunnel especially for her.
Norway breaks all records for the length of tunnels. The longest road tunnel in the world is the Norwegian mountain tunnel Laerdal (24.5 km), which is part of the highway connecting the capital of Norway, Oslo, and the western port of the country, Bergen.
To be honest, the feeling is the same when you drive into an underwater tunnel: you drive down for about 15 minutes without pressing the pedals with only one thought - how long will it take you to go up! And it’s great downstairs: wet walls, drops dripping from the ceiling. The stones make noise against the tunnel walls... Some are not ventilated (even for 3-5 km!). And you clearly feel a lack of oxygen.

40. And on a gray day you can shoot something unusual. For example, such a large panorama of an ordinary lake.

41. The day ends. Not rich in “catch”, but simply pleasant. Again the ferry, fjords, lighthouses, mountains... For the night we stop right next to the shore, just a little way up from the ferry station. Overlooking the fjord.

42. For this day we planned to climb Moisalen, a large mountain above the fjords.

43. But it didn’t work out: there were clouds over the mountains. It's drizzling. We would definitely not be able to see anything at an altitude of more than a kilometer. It's a pity. But there is a reason to return.


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44. This is the weather in Norway. Sun and rocks would be too deceiving.

45. In many corners of Lofoten - no one. On a cloudy day, life seems to stand still. Peace and quiet.


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46. ​​We take the dirt road to Zigelfjord. Near the road there are swamps and houses in the swamps;)

47. Here is our primer. Driving on asphalt gets boring. Although the roads in Norway are very good. It's amazing how they manage to keep the road surface in such good condition. After all, rains wash away everything, and the rock moves.

48. In the evening it began to rain heavily. We were all wet to the last thread. But we were not broken in spirit. The reward is a beautiful sunset. 30 minutes of amazing light over the fjord.

49. The rain is dripping, the sun brightly illuminates the heavy lead clouds with its rays.


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49(2). And one more shot:

50. Shades of green change every minute.

51. And this is a river flowing into the fjord, taken in the other direction from the fjord. Clouds are settling on the mountains...


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52. Rays of the setting sun... The miracles did not end there. We wanted to dry off in the “Hütte”, this is a house in the mountains especially for tourists and hunters. But, unfortunately, the hutta was busy that day. And we were just about to get upset when a local hunter came up to us and invited us to stay in his house. He apologized to us for a long time, saying: guys, I don’t have a toilet and the house is very small. But we were amazed at how neatly everything was done there. Wood, soft beds for the first time in a week, warm radiators. This was a gift for us. But we didn’t remain in debt either. This morning we made him pancakes with blueberry jam that we had just made. True, he fed them to us. We also met his little curious spaniels in the morning.


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53. Here is our next day. We decided to cut the route a little: we didn’t have time. We decided to take a high-speed ferry from Harstadt in the evening directly to Finnesnes, to Senya.


54. In the morning we went down to the fjord and boarded the ferry. The ferry took only 10 minutes, but the “luxury” here was traditional (remembering the Sevastopol ferry with wooden benches). Any ferry is usually decorated with paintings by local artists. There is definitely a cafe with traditionally high prices.

55. This day has now definitely broken all records for “grayness”. These are the tranquil landscapes that followed one another.

56. You almost fall asleep on the move from such an idyll...

57. During the day we already arrived in Harstadt, walked around the city, and in the evening we boarded the ferry, which carried us like the wind to Finnesnes. The ferry itself goes to our destination - Tromso. But we still have Senya and the Lingen Alps ahead of us! The ferry is not a cargo ferry, it travels very quickly - cutting through the surface of the water. It's amazing to watch from the window how quickly it cuts through the waves and picks up speed, like a plane on the runway.


Evening - and we are already on the Seine... There is a separate story about this island in the next part.

What is interesting about the Lofoten Islands in Norway? Location and attractions of Lofoten. Hotels and hostels on the Lofoten Islands.

The Lofoten archipelago, washed by the waters of the Norwegian Sea, consists of rocky islands, completely indented with sandy beaches and bays. Their main advantage is wild, picturesque and untouched nature against the backdrop of calm and serenity. The Lofoten Islands are particularly famous for their fishing villages, northern lights and exciting nature safaris. This is still an incomplete list of what is interesting about this amazing corner.

Lofoten Islands on the map of Norway

Geography and climate of the Lofoten Islands

Lofoten Islands, whose total area is 1,227 square meters. km, located west of the coast of Norway and north of the Arctic Circle. The largest islands of the archipelago are: Austvogøy, Vestvågøy, Moskenesøy, Gimsøy, Värøy, Flakstadøy and Røst. Despite its location, the archipelago is characterized by fairly warm weather due to the Gulf Stream, that is, a warm current.

Svolvær - the small capital of the Lofoten Islands

Lofoten Islands - history

The first settlements on the Lofoten Islands appeared approximately 6,000 years ago. The life of the first local residents was inextricably linked with fishing and, of course, hunting. In those days, the archipelago was covered mainly by forests, so there were quite a lot of wild animals. With the beginning of the development of agriculture, Vikings appeared in Lofoten. They attached great importance to fishing, which was the reason for the appearance of fishing villages on the islands.

The first huts for local fishermen were built on the coast in 1120. Many of them are currently being converted to accommodate tourists.

Lofoten Islands - accommodation, hotels, hostels

There are many villages and towns where you can stay in Lofoten. Prices for hotels, hostels and campsites in Lofoten are traditionally high, as elsewhere (remember, this is one of the most expensive countries in the world). The options we have selected are suitable for both budget tourists and those who are willing to overpay a little for comfort/location/atmosphere:

• Eliassen Rorbuer. Let's start, as promised, with former fishermen's houses, renovated into comfortable cottages. In addition to the bedroom, the houses have a living room and a bathroom. An equipped kitchen is available to all guests. The hotel is located on the island of Hamney, where you can fish, relax and feel the flavor of Lofoten.

  

  How do you like it? That very case when words are unnecessary!

• Smaken av Lofoten. Bed/breakfast hotel in an authentic fishing village near Sorvagen, where it is customary to spend the night in transit. Colorful, beautiful and not too expensive 😉 Although no, it’s expensive, of course, but it’s worth it! Because the Lofoten Islands are exactly like this hotel and its surroundings. Price per room - from 8,000 rubles.

  

• Scandic Svolvær 3*. This is a chain hotel in the capital of the Lofoten Islands. High-quality, but inexpensive - the best option. The main advantage is the location (on the island, in the heart of the harbor) and gorgeous views from the windows of the rooms. Hearty Scandinavian-style breakfasts are served in the panoramic glass restaurant. We recommend!

  

  Not a bad start to the day, isn't it?

• Vestfjord Hotel Lofoten 3*. Another hotel in Svolvær with good value for money. The rooms are standard for 3 stars, everything you need is available. Again - breakfast! To understand why we pay so much attention to them, you need to spend at least a night in a Scandinavian hotel 😉

  

  Standard Double Room at Vestfjord Hotel Lofoten

• Villa Ballstad in the village of Ballstad (just over 10 km from Leknes airport). A very cozy guest house with an adequate price for an overnight stay. From here it is a half hour drive to the main attraction of the Lofoten Islands - the Viking Museum.

  

  This is the kind of house you can live in in Lofoten!

• Vandrerhjem Lofotferie Kabelvåg . Now we go to the village of Kabelvåg, where on the shore of the fjord there is a guest house (or hostel) with very tempting prices for Norway! What awaits you? Cozy rooms, clean well-equipped kitchen, gorgeous view from the window! Price - from 3,600 rubles.

  

  One of the hotel houses with 7 rooms (Lofoten Islands, Norway)

Holidays in Lofoten Islands

Divers and snorkelers are not uncommon on these islands. Hidden here in the clear Arctic waters is a rich world of underwater flora and fauna. Diving in the waters around the Lofoten Islands is accessible not only to experienced divers, but even to beginners. Another exciting activity while traveling can be a boat trip, during which you can watch the marine life.

In addition, tourists are attracted by its incredibly beautiful beauty. The natural light show is especially impressive due to the influence of warm winter weather.

What to do and see in Lofoten

Lofoten has several must-see attractions. But to explore the interesting places of the Lofoten Islands you will need to either rent a car or go on an organized excursion.

Panorama of Kjerkfjorden and a fishing village on one of the Lofoten islands. (c) Jack Brauer

So, what to see in the Lofoten Islands?

• Once on the island of Austvogøya, in particular in the village of Kabelvåg, it is worth visiting the local aquarium, open to visitors since 1989 . Here, in 23 aquariums, all the underwater life of the Lofoten Islands is presented - from mammals to small fish.
• Those interested in the history and lifestyle of the Vikings will be interested in Viking Museum Lofotr . Located in the village of Borg, this museum is a completely restored dwelling, the length of which reaches 83 meters. The last great Viking leader, Olaf Twennumbruni, once lived here. The interior halls have been recreated with extreme precision. Today, as in the Viking Age, there is a forge and a farm here. As for the pier, there are ships here too, which make the atmosphere of the museum more believable.
• In Nysfjord you can visit old fishing village , consisting of a complex of buildings erected at the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. Their uniqueness lies in the fact that they have never been restored.

Lofoten is also a great place for fishing. Even in winter, lovers of a good catch come here. The most impressive event for many of them is the World Cod Fishing Championship, which runs from February until the end of April. Despite the fact that the number of fishermen at this festival reaches several hundred, there are many more tourists watching everything that happens. There is still a lot to see and do in the Lofoten Islands. Everyone will find something to do or a place to their liking here, be it a quiet fishing village or a golf club.

Perhaps there are not many places on the whole Earth whose absolute beauty everyone who has been there speaks about. But the Lofoten Islands in northern Norway are definitely among them. Here, eternal ice meets an ocean storm, and the weather changes literally every five minutes.

The main feature of the Lofoten Islands is their remoteness from any tourist routes. Just 20 years ago, the archipelago was a godforsaken place, inhabited only by fishermen, but everything changed in 2007, when the E-10 highway was built, connecting the islands with the mainland. The Norwegian government decided to quickly recoup the costs of building the route and began a real PR campaign for Lofoten as the main tourist attraction - and, in general, it was right. Half of the archipelago's residents are now employed in the service sector; many rent out their homes to tourists and willingly show off the local beauty.

March is considered one of the best seasons to travel to Lofoten: the days are already quite long and bright, you can still catch the northern lights at night, and hordes of tourists have not yet filled all available accommodation options. It's also Atlantic cod fishing season. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to visit there, and found fellow travelers to the islands through the Tromso Facebook community of international students while I was studying at the Arctic University of Norway, and we went on a four-day trip with a cosmopolitan group of Ukrainian, Spanish, Dutch, Hungarian and American women.

Transport

There are only a few ways to get to Lofoten: by plane, ferry, or car. There are two airports on the archipelago itself: Leknes and Evenes, which are connected to major cities in Norway by Wideroe airlines. One one-way ticket will cost about € 90. You can also go from Narvik or Bodo to Svolvær (the main city of the archipelago) for € 130. Or, as in our case, rent a car in the nearest large city and drive 500 km to the islands along the most beautiful mountain highway E6, nicknamed the “road of the northern lights”.

Transport in Lofoten is developed in a very unique way. You can get there from anywhere and everywhere, but there are options when only one bus a day goes to the desired direction, with no way to return. Therefore, renting a car remains virtually no alternative option. In addition to the traditional Sixt, Europcar and Avis, in Norway there is a service called Rent-a-Wreck, which works like Airbnb and allows you to save a lot of money. Four days of renting a comfortable hatchback cost us €350.

“The smell of cod drying in the frosty wind is a little shocking at first, but it adds a great atmosphere to this amazing place.”

Housing

The classic accommodation in Lofoten are the red rorbu fishermen's houses, standing right by the water. We, like true students, chose the most budget rorba on all Airbnb, and got an amazing view of the fjord in the Leknes area (a city in the central part of the archipelago), proximity to real fishermen and a treat with freshly caught cod from the owner of the house. As it turned out later, our accommodation option was incredibly successful, since there was not a single flooring for drying fish near our rorbu... In the Norwegian language there is even a separate word denoting the very smell of cod that is drying in the frosty wind, and this word has the root “ lofote." And although the smell is a little shocking at first, it greatly adds to the atmosphere of this amazing place.

Attractions

The entire archipelago is one continuous attraction. There is a list of must-see places: the villages of Reine or Henningsvaer, the beaches of Ukland and Ramberg, and the end of the road in the village with the laconic name O. It is photos from these places that most often appear in queries and tags “Lofoten Islands”. When planning your route, you should prepare for the fact that the best viewing platforms will be occupied by tourists with advanced photographic equipment, and drones will constantly buzz overhead.

We agreed that it is the forgotten fishing villages, where you can take truly unusual pictures on deserted beaches, that best convey the spirit of these places. For example, from the famous Ukland beach there is a road through a tunnel to the village of Uttakelv, where a dozen fishermen's houses and red barns stand, cut off from the rest of the world, right at the foot of huge black rocks. And the village of Eggum lies on the border of a national park, home to thousands of species of birds, and where in good weather you can watch pairs of eagles hunting. There is also a small bastion, which was built by the Nazis in 1943 to house the Allied fleet. From May to October there is a small exhibition at the bottom of the bastion.

The exhibition at the Viking Museum Lofotr is very interesting. The history of the museum is very simple: in the 70s, a local farmer was plowing his field with a new tractor and suddenly discovered the remains of a Viking dwelling from a thousand years ago, with all the artifacts like coins, chain mail, helmets and two-handed swords. Today the dwelling has been restored, and thanks to the runes on the stones, it has been revealed that the house once belonged to the family of a disgraced Viking leader who resisted the adoption of Christianity and eventually sailed away to discover Iceland. The more traditional part of the exhibition will tell you about this, then the “leader’s house” itself offers you to feel like a real Varangian: you can hold swords, check the comfort of the clothes and helmets of that time, learn how to weave and carve your name with runes on a tree, and much more. In the summer there are even more activities, including a blacksmith's workshop and sword lessons. Ticket price for an adult is € 17.

“The history of the museum is very simple: in the 70s, a local farmer was plowing his field with a new tractor and suddenly discovered the remains of Viking dwellings from a thousand years ago.”

Another discovery is the village of Nusfjord, halfway between tourist Reine and Leknes: twenty yellow and red houses are literally squeezed into a narrow valley, fishing boats unload in a tiny port, and in the only cafe they prepare aromatic potato soup with cod and dishes from the fresh catch.

Geologists say that the Lofoten Islands are one of the oldest mountain systems in the world. Perhaps this is why these steep cliffs bursting straight out of the ocean, mountain gorges and glaciers are so stunning with their grandeur and make us think, no matter how pathetic it may sound, about our place on this planet.

Weather

Because Lofoten stretches almost 300 kilometers west of mainland Norway, the climate here is extremely variable and unpredictable. Cloudy weather just as easily turns into a blizzard as it does into the serene radiance of the March sun. But the advantage of traveling in the off-season is that half an hour is enough to wait out the bad weather and again enjoy the fantastic scenery.

Budget

The best option for a trip to Lofoten is in a group of 4-5 people; the trip budget will be reduced to a minimum if you share the car rental, gasoline, and accommodation in a rorbu cottage among everyone, and cook on your own. Tickets on the route Kyiv - Gdansk - Tromso - Gdansk - Kyiv will cost approximately € 150 per person, depending on the days of the week and current Wizz Air discounts.

Lofoten Islands

They say that the Lofoten Islands are one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Although the mountains here are not very high, the highest peak - Higraftindan reaches a height of only 1161 meters, but they rise almost directly from the sea, presenting an unusual and impressive sight.

The Lofoten Islands are an archipelago consisting of 5 large and 5 small islands, located in northern Norway, west of Narvik and 200 kilometers above the Arctic Circle. The unusual climate of these places is caused by the warming effect of the Golf Stream. For the same reason, the rocks here dry out very quickly even after heavy rain. Throughout June and July, the sun does not set below the horizon over the islands. Significant glaciation and granite rocks provide enormous opportunities for rock climbing and mountaineering all year round. However, it should be remembered that there are no marked hiking trails on the islands at all - Norwegians prefer to enjoy nature alone, so a map and compass will be useful when traveling around the islands. The Lofoten are the oldest rock formations on Earth, dating back approximately 3 billion years. Their current appearance was formed 10,000 years ago, when the last Ice Age ended. The area of ​​the archipelago is 1,227 square kilometers and its population is 24,500 people.

How to get there

Getting to Norway from Russia is not the most difficult task. Therefore, I will only dwell on the final part of the journey - from mainland Norway to the islands.

Ferries to the islands run from Trondheim and Bodø. They arrive respectively in Stamsunds, Moskenes or Svolvaer. In addition, ferries to Sortland run from Narvik, Skutvik and Melbu.

For those who like fast and expensive flights, there is air service to the islands from the city of Bode.

The rocks rise straight out of the sea.

Weather

The Lofoten Islands do not spoil travelers with too good weather. However, in June, July and August the weather is quite stable and this is the best time for mountaineering. But we must always remember that at any moment the warm summer weather can suddenly give way to a storm with a sharp drop in temperature. A very useful phenomenon is the polar day - you can climb at any time of the day. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, the climate in Lofoten is much milder than in other places at the same latitude - in Alaska and Greenland. The average monthly temperature of the coldest month of January is 1°C, and the warmest is +12°C.

Where to live

Norway is one of the few countries where you can camp anywhere, except on private property and unless your camp is in an agricultural field. In addition, in certain places there may be signs prohibiting the installation of tents for any reason. All details can be found out in the nearest tourist centers. In addition, fisherman's houses, which are scattered in countless numbers throughout the islands, can be a relatively cheap accommodation option. This house is a pretty decent home.

Prices

It is common knowledge that Norway is an expensive country. Although you can save money on accommodation here (tents, fisherman's houses), all other prices are very high. So, having a glass of beer and pizza after a hard day on the rocks can cost about 30 euros. By the way, motorists are strongly advised to follow the rules and speed limits: the fines are very significant.

Midnight sun.

Mountaineering

History of development

It is believed that mountaineering in the Lofoten Islands originated in 1889, when two local fishermen climbed Mount Vagakallen (942 meters). The next important step was the ascent to the top of The Goat - two pointed towers in the vicinity of Svolvaer, made by two climbers from Oslo in 1910. In the first half of the 20th century, the islands were visited mainly by Norwegian and British climbers. In the 1960s, a number of remarkable ascents were made by Arild Meyer and the Nesheim brothers from Tromso. Meyer made the first ascent of Presten via the West Buttress (today the most famous route on the islands) and climbed the longest and most difficult route on the islands, The Great Pillar to the top of Vágákallen. It is also worth mentioning the name of Hans Christian Doseth, who did a lot for the development of free climbing. He was the first to free climb the West Buttress of Presteigne.

In 1994, Ed Webster published the first guide to local routes called Climbing in the Magic Islands.

Equipment

Norwegians are fans of trad climbing. Therefore, punches and perforators can be safely left at home. To pass routes, it is advisable to have a set of: stoppers, eccentrics. A few won't hurt. On some routes, very small stoppers may be useful. A 50-meter rope should be enough here, since it is at this distance that the stations are equipped on the routes.

Difficulty categories

Norway has developed its own scale for assessing the difficulty of rocky areas. If you compare it with the system, then you need to add about half a category or a whole one to the Norwegian figure. Below is an approximate ratio of Norwegian and French indices.

Climbing

The visiting card of the Lafatene Islands are the peaks of Svolvaergeita, with a classic route 4+, and Presten. The main disadvantages of the first object are long approaches and too easy and uninteresting climbing. The only thing that attracts climbers here is the unusual peak: two pointed towers with a 50-meter drop between them. Unlike Svolvaergate, the approaches to the foot of Presteigne only take about ten minutes from the road. Another interesting place is the peak of Gandalfveggen. The routes here are short (80-100 meters), but they offer wonderful views. The rock is close to the road. The most popular routes here are Gandalf, a varied 4 pitch route on the right side of the wall, Guns'n Roses and Rasmusekspressen. Near the village of Kalle there are huge rocks rising straight out of the sea. The popular Storpillaren route passes here.

In addition to rock climbing, in winter the Lofoten Islands offer excellent climbing opportunities with tools.

Encyclopedia of tourists. 2014 .

See what the “Lofoten Islands” are in other dictionaries:

Lofoten Islands- on the map of Norway ... Wikipedia

Lofoten Islands- (Lofoten), in the Norwegian Sea, near the northwestern coast of the Scandinavian Peninsula, part of Norway. 1.2 thousand km2. Height up to 1161 m. Fjords, mountain tundra. Fishing. * * * LOFOTEN ISLANDS LOFOTEN ISLANDS (Lofoten), in… … encyclopedic Dictionary