What is a high voltage induction coil used for? Spinning reel for pike fishing. Inertialess, inertial or multiplier

In the article on the inertialess coil, the material is presented in the following order:

• principle of operation of the coil,
• friction brake,
• laying fishing line on the spool,
• types of spool profiles,
• spinning reel size,
• rotor rotation speed,
• reel handle,
• video on how to choose a reel,
• song and joke about fishing.

Principle of operation

A spinning reel (hereinafter referred to as BC or simply a reel) is widely used in various types of fishing and today is considered the most common and universal in the entire fishing world. In some English-speaking countries it is called "Fixed spool reel" - fixed spool reel. The reason for this name was the fact that in working condition the BC spool remains motionless - fixed.

In confirmation of what has been said, it should be noted that when casting bait, the fishing line flies off the stationary spool and during further operation of the reel: retrieving the bait, landing fish, etc., it also remains limited from rotation.
The line is wound by a line layer rotating around the spool in one plane.
Due to the reciprocating movements of the spool, moving back and forth under the rotating stacker, the line is wound not in one place, but along the entire length of the drum.

1. Friction brake control knob.
2. Line roller.
3. Line brace.
4. Spool.
5. Rotor.
6. Frame.
7. Reverse stopper.
8. Handle.

The line guide is a device mounted on the reel rotor through a folding mechanism, consisting of a line guide bracket and a guide roller, which ensures that the line is wound onto the reel spool.

The reel rotor, together with the line guide, is driven by rotation of the handle with a certain gear ratio.
The line guide bracket, rotating around a fixed spool, winds the fishing line stretched through the guide roller onto the spool, which carries out a back-and-forth reciprocating movement.
The line guide roller, which has a bearing (preferably), ensures uniform and soft sliding of the line, and the folding mechanism allows you to open and close the line handle bracket if necessary.

Such a constructive solution to “fixing the spool” saved the BC from many of the shortcomings of its predecessor - . The main one was considered to be the moment of inertia caused by the rotational movement of the spool (drum) with the fishing line, and which served as the reason for its frequent, arbitrary descents (“beards”). In order to implement this solution, the spool of the multiplier reel, which served as the prototype of the BC, had to be rotated 90 degrees, while significantly changing the design of its drive.

Friction brake

Spinning reels conditionally divided into reels with front and rear friction brakes. The friction brake, using the braking force, changes the amount of force required to pull the fishing line from the spool, thereby softening the jerks and impacts when hooking and landing large fish. It also insures the reel mechanism from overloads, protecting the rod from breaking under critical loads, and the fishing line from breaking.
The location of the friction brake does not affect the functions of the BC, except that with the front brake the reel weighs less and has smoother adjustment, and with the rear brake the spool is removed faster and easier.

In a reel with a rear brake (photo 2), instead of the brake regulator handle there is a spool lock button, by pressing which it can be easily removed.

In the case of the front brake, to remove the spool it is necessary to completely loosen the clutch by unscrewing and removing its adjuster knob.

Reel spool is not always in a stationary state; its rotation is possible when a force arises that pulls the fishing line from it. In this case, it has the ability to rotate in the opposite direction. The friction brake holds the spool, blocking such rotation, and the force of pulling the line depends on how tightly it is tightened.

Some ultra-modern reels have a system that allows, even with the brake fully applied, to release the line at the maximum permissible load on it. Thereby protecting the BC, if it is used incorrectly, from overloads and damage.

When adjusting the friction brake, set the braking force so that it is one third less than the strength of the fishing line used. If a line with a weight of 6.0 kg is used, then the friction brake is adjusted to the force at which it releases the line - 4.0 kg. If this rule is observed, the BC and the rod are subjected to less stress, which allows them to prolong their service life.

Laying line on the spool

The line is laid in the BC by a line layer rotating around the spool and a spool feed mechanism that converts the rotational movement of the handle into a reciprocating movement of the spool.

A full cycle of spool movement "forward - backward" corresponds to two turns of the handle, in which in the first half of the cycle (“forward”) the line is laid in a spiral in one direction, and in the second (“back”) - the next layer of the spiral is laid crosswise on top of the first, in the opposite direction. In spinning reels, two types of spool feed mechanisms are most often used. This is a mechanism with worm or cranktransfer:
1. worm gear called "endless screw"- the kinematic precision of the worm pair contributes to a more uniform feed of the spool, thereby increasing the quality of line winding.

2. crank - connecting rod transmission using backstage called "locomotive"- some features of the mechanism do not always allow you to achieve the desired quality of line laying.

The rotational movement of the line layer and the reciprocating movement of the spool are coordinated with each other by the reel mechanism. The unit of agreement is spool feed pitch- the length of its movement during one full revolution of the rotor (turn), often called the “line laying step”. The laying pitch affects the distance between adjacent turns of the winding layer, and therefore its density and shape.

The feed pitch, which is constant throughout the “forward-backward” cycle, ensures straight, cylindrical laying of the fishing line. Changing the pitch during the feed cycle allows you to obtain a line winding shape (figure) other than a straight line.
The figure shows three types of shapes for laying fishing line on a cylindrical spool:

• standard cylindrical, also known as straight laying,
• laying with a straight cone,
• reverse cone laying.

-straight (cylindrical)- has a constant laying step,allows you to get straight profile (shape) of winding, which does not exclude spontaneous removal of the fishing line , a fact that does not prevent a reel with this type of installation from being considered the most common and universal, with which You can achieve all three types of winding shapes using different spool configurations.Do not confuse the configuration of the spool with the type of line laying; in one case, the geometric shape of the spool, in the other, the shape of the line being laid fishing line on it.

- laying with a straight cone- has a laying step that increases towards the side of the spool, allows you to get tapered line winding profile. Provides the longest cast, while increasing the likelihood of the line coming off spontaneously.

- laying in reverse cone- has a step decreasing towards the side,allows you to get reverse-taper line winding profile . It completely eliminates spontaneous line loss, but at the same time the bait casting range is reduced.

To avoid the “beards” coming off, it is necessary not to wind the line to the edge of the side, leaving 1.5 - 2.0 mm. An important requirement for a spinning reel, regardless of the type of laying and feeding mechanism, is the quality of winding of the fishing line - it should lie evenly over the entire surface of the spool, excluding wavy irregularities, bumps and dips.

Types of spool profiles

All of the above line winding profiles,can be obtained by having one reel with a straight (cylindrical) type of laying, using interchangeable spools of different configurations.

In most cases, spools of the following geometric shapes are used:

- cylinder ("straight")

- cone ("conical")

- reverse cone ("reverse cone")

A reel with a cylindrical laying, thanks to a constant pitch of the spool, lays the line evenly and equally over its entire surface, reflecting the configuration of the spool on the shape of the line being wound.

.

Spinning Reel Size

In most cases, to indicate the size of a spinning reel, two digital signature options are used:

Option 1 - the size increases from smaller to larger numbers; from "1000" to "12000" with dimensional increments "500", those. "1000", "1500", "2000", "2500", etc. Indicated by large numbers on the reel spool. See Photo 3. For traditional fishing methods, reel sizes from “1000” to “5000” are mainly used. Large reels, from “5000” and above, are used in gear for catching large fish from the shore, in cases where it is necessary to fit many meters of thick fishing line on the spool;

Option 2- size increases from left to right; from "020", "025", "030" and higher in dimensional increments "005" .

The sizes of both options are roughly consistent with each other. Size "1000" corresponds to size "020", "1500" - "025", "2000" - "030", etc. The size value serves to represent and compare the geometric (overall) dimensions of the reel, on which the weight, line capacity and power of the reel depend. Moreover, the dimension is relative, does not have an exact standard, and serves to represent and compare coils from the same manufacturer.

For greater accuracy when comparing reels by size, it is necessary to take into account the name and model range of the reel. In Photo 3, the reel name is highlighted in red, and the model range is indicated by the letters “AH” before the digital signature “2000”.

What size reel to take; "1000" - "thousander" or "2000" - "two thousandth" depends on the you are going to use it, observing the requirement of “harmony of gear”, taking into account the general a. With light class rodsUltra - Light (UL)use "thousanders" or "one and a half thousanders", for class Light (L) recommended“one and a half thousanders” or “two thousanders”, according to the principle, the more powerful the rod, the more spacious and powerful the reel.

Reel capacity is determined by the length of the monofilament line that can fit on the spool. Depends on the geometric dimensions of the spool, its diameter, length and profile depth. Using interchangeable spools of different depths on one reel, you can manipulate its line capacity and use different fishing line.

Practically, all manufacturers of spinning reels put recommended markings on them in the format "mm/m" - line diameter/line length. For example, "0.18/240 0.20/200 0.25/140" means that the spool can be wound onto the spool 240 m fishing line with its diameter 0.18 mm. or 200 m fishing line with diameter 0.20 mm or 0.25/140 respectively.

Coil rotor speed

The rotor rotation speed is set gear ratio drive mechanism and the rate of rotation of the handle. The gear ratio is determined by the ratio of one revolution of the handle to a certain number of revolutions of the reel rotor. Indicated on the reel spool by the word “Gear ratio” and the ratio of numbers. For example: “5.0:1” means that for one revolution of the handle, the rotor makes five revolutions; “3.6:1” - for one revolution of the handle, the rotor makes three point six revolutions.

When buying a bookmaker, it is very important to take it into account gear ratio, so - as the coils produced today have a wide “range” of gear ratios, from 3.2:1 before 7.2:1 .

Despite the fact that all BCs seem to serve one common purpose - catching fish, this is done in different ways and under different fishing conditions, taking into account which you should choose a reel. In this category, bookmakers have the following classification:

- low-speed (power)- gear ratio from 3.2:1 to 4.3:1. They are used for playing and catching large (strong) fish using large and heavy baits. As a rule, they have a metal spool of large capacity, are equipped with a powerful handle and a line roller larger than usual. The mechanism parts are made of durable materials, ensuring the reliability and resistance of the BC mechanism to loads. For this type of reel, slow retrieve or trolling fishing is preferred.

- universal- gear ratio from 4.5:1 to 6.1:1. They have a wide range of applications in different types and methods of fishing (bottom, match, Bolognese, etc.), including spinning fishing. They are used for both slow and fast retrieval, with baits of different sizes and weights.

- high-speed - gear ratio from 6.2:1 to 7.2:1. used where quick reeling of fishing line is required: for some types of spinning castings, when using light and soft ones with jig heads; in fishing methods that require frequent casting of equipment and quick elimination of line slack. High-speed BCs have found sufficient application in both spinning and match fishing. When choosing a caster, it is necessary to take into account that the gear ratio of the reel determines the length of the fishing line selected (wound) for one full revolution of the handle - a characteristic that has a serious impact on the technique of wiring the bait, especially.

Handle

Most spinning reel models are equipped with push-button handle folding system, allowing it to be quickly folded by lightly pressing a button, and a screw mechanism for removing or moving the handle to the other side of the reel (photo 4). For these purposes, the bookmaker has screw head, located on the opposite side of the handle, allowing you to control the screw without much effort.

In reels of high-speed models, a double handle is used or supplemented with a compensator (f oto 5), d To prevent vibration associated with arm imbalance.

Some models of spinning reels do not have a push-button system for folding the handle, and both functions (folding and rearranging the handle) are performed using one screw mechanism, when using which:

to fold the handle first loosen the screw, open or close the handle, then tighten it, fixing the handle in the desired position;

for rearranging the handle coil, unscrew the screw completely, move the handle to the other side of the body, then insert the screw into the hole of the polyhedron and tighten it until it stops.

Rotor backstop

Reverse motion of the spinning reel- the rotation of the rotor and handle is considered to be directed in the direction opposite to the working direction (winding the fishing line onto the spool). Almost all spinning reels have a mechanism that can prevent the rotor and handle from rotating backwards. He is called: "reverse stopper" or "anti-reverse". When turned on, it blocks the rotation of the reel handle “towards itself”, preventing the rotor from turning in the opposite direction, thereby preventing the consequences associated with weakening of the fishing line during operation of the reel.

The reverse stop mechanism is located inside the reel, and on the outer part of its body there is a lever that activates or disables the anti-reverse.
Many fishermen, for brevity or out of ignorance, call this “lever - flag” - the reverse stop switch - the anti-reverse itself, and assign it the loudest titles: " reverse stop", "anti-reverse stopper", "reverse lock" etc. , which misleads and confuses people mastering the fishing business.

Anti-reverse makes it possible to hook fish with one hand, which is indispensable in float fishing and very convenient in spinning fishing. Convenience of operation of the BC is not the main purpose of the reverse stopper; its main task is to protect the reel mechanism from critical loads associated with jerks during fishing, at the moment of hooking large fish, in case of a dead hook and other similar situations.

The design of the reverse stop mechanism has evolved from the “step stop” to the “instant anti-reverse”.

Stepped reverse stop, is based on a multi-tooth ratchet gear, integral with the reel rotor. The beveled gear teeth allow the spring-loaded handle lever to move along them in “one” direction and do not allow it to move in the “other” direction, resting against it during rotation.

Instant stop (anti-reverse) is an overrunning clutch made on the basis of a roller bearing. The disadvantage of the stepped stopper was the play of the handle, formed by the “free” zone between adjacent teeth of the ratchet gear. As a result, the stopper does not have the ability to operate instantly, and the handle and rotor of the reel rotate to a certain angle - the “free play angle”.
For this reason, sharp jerks when hooking a fish or hooking, which is not much different from a bite, cause serious shocks in the ratchet gear mechanism and lead to its premature failure.

The design of an instant reverse stopper based on an overrunning clutch using a needle bearing completely eliminated this drawback, which is especially noticeable when using low-stretch braided fishing line.

For spinning reels, the most common location of the reverse stop switch lever is on the upper platform of the rear part of the housing. In addition to the standard location, on some models it may be located on the lower surface of the housing, in the area adjacent to the rotor.

When purchasing a spinning reel, pay attention to:

line rollermust be made of materials that are slightly susceptible to abrasion (stainless steel, brass or bronze with a corrosion-resistant carbide coating) and preferably have a ball bearing;

stroke of the line roller - use a match or a piece of paper folded in half to imitate the movement of the fishing line along the roller, make sure that it rotates easily and that the match or piece of paper does not slip along the stationary surface of the roller;

line guide bracket– open the bracket and shake the reel sharply, simulating casting; it should not close spontaneously;

rotor stroke - spin the rotorcoils two to three quick turns of the handle and release it, pay attention to the duration of rotation of the rotor and handle without your help.By how long and freely they rotate under the influence of inertia, one can judge the progress of the rotor. If the drive mechanism is not able to continue rotating due to inertia or makes sounds of unknown origin during rotation, this indicates that the rotor is moving difficultly and it is better to refuse to purchase such a coil;

handle stroke- when the handle rotates slowly, its movement should be smooth, uniform, without jerks, impacts or extraneous sounds;

mechanism balancing - Vibration of the coil during rapid rotation of the handle is unacceptable;

spool play – Transverse play is prohibited (in the direction perpendicular to the axis of rotation);

reel handle - Its transverse play is extremely undesirable. It is necessary to check the system of folding and moving the handle to the other side of the reel ;

number of bearings– at least 5 (marked “5+1” or “6” at the bottom of the reel body, under or on the spool);

instant reverse stopper - you need to make sure that the coil reverse locking mechanism is working properly. Tightly blockedturning the handle towards you,with the stopper engaged, indicates its serviceability;

coil body- a visual examination of the reel body will help identify possible defects on it (cracks, scratches, dents).

Joke

Two fishermen communicate.
First.
- Yesterday I caught a catfish worth 120 kg!
Second.
- I also flashed yesterday. It doesn’t matter, I only pulled out one pike worth 20 kg. He began to gut it, ripped open its belly, and there was an antique old lantern with an inscription in English: “James Cook - 1764.” I set it on fire, and it burns...
The first one scratched his head.
- Listen, I’ll lose 90 kg from my catfish, but you turn off the flashlight!
More information about fishing reels can be found in the article

Have a nice and successful fishing! It is not the result that is important, but the process itself!

15.06.2012

How to choose a spinning inertia-free reel?

Modern assortment really huge. There are hundreds of manufacturers, and each of them also has a lot of reel models, and, at first glance, all models look almost the same, and the difference in price can reach 10 times. How can you not get confused here? Well, let's start with the fact that at first glance all the coils are the same, but in fact the difference lies in the details, such as: quality of materials, build quality, perfection of engineering solutions, etc. But all these details directly affect reliability and ease of use of the reel.

Choosing a suitable spinning reel is even more difficult than the rod itself - there are too many different nuances in this matter. However, if you approach the issue thoroughly and sort everything out, the choice will be easy to make.

The main rule, which greatly simplifies the choice of a reel, is: “The reel should be matched to the fishing rod!” Or rather, depending on the fishing conditions: fishing method, size and type of fish. But we proceed from the fact that all fishing factors have already been taken into account when choosing a fishing rod, and the reel is selected as a harmonious addition.

So, let's start putting everything into pieces.

Materials used in reels

There are two materials that are used in the manufacture of reels: plastic and metal. At the same time, there are hundreds of types of plastic, each of which differs in strength and wear resistance. Metal in coils is also a broad concept, because even in one model, several types of metals can be used simultaneously. For example, the body may be made of titanium alloy, the spool made of machined aluminum, the line guide made of stainless steel, gears made of bronze alloy, etc. In the vast majority of cases, the reel design consists of both plastic and metal parts, although there are both all-metal and all-plastic models. It is not recommended to purchase the latter, since these products, to put it mildly, do not differ in quality.

Manufacturers are constantly trying to reduce the weight of reels while maintaining their strength. As a result of the pursuit of simultaneous strength and lightness, reels made of various lightweight and very durable metal alloys appear on the market every year. Yes, such models are not cheap, but they are worth it. In general, the best choice is a reel with an alloy metal body. But in no case should we write off reels with a carbon fiber body. Modern carbon fiber reinforced plastics are not inferior to metal in many respects, and in some respects they are superior to it. When choosing a reel based on material, you should most likely focus on price. Unfortunately, miracles do not happen, and for a low price you are unlikely to be offered a product with “super properties”. Well, for the high price, both a metal coil and a carbon fiber one will be equally good.

Gear ratio of inertia-free coil

The gear ratio is a parameter that means the ratio of one full revolution of the handle to the number of revolutions of the line layer. According to this parameter, coils are divided into high-speed and power. The gear ratio can be indicated on the reel body by the following expression: 5.0: 1, 5.3: 1, etc. This inscription means that one corresponds to one revolution of the handle, and the second number indicates the corresponding number of revolutions of the line layer. The higher the ratio, the faster the coil, and vice versa, the lower the ratio, the more powerful the coil. Power models include reels that have a gear ratio of up to 5.0: 1 (4.0: 1, 4.3: 1, etc.), and high-speed reels include models with a gear ratio above 5.0: 1 (5.3: 1, 6.0: 1 and etc.). The speed qualities of the reel depend primarily on the size of the teeth of the main gear. But let’s not delve into such technical jungle; anyway, no one will let you disassemble the reel before purchasing. From a practical point of view, power reels are good for catching large fish, as well as for retrieving using “high-tension” baits. High-speed models have a smaller power reserve, but allow you to reel out the line very quickly, which is very important for certain types of fishing, for example, when fishing with a jig. The choice between strength and speed completely depends on the intended fishing objects - we only hunt for “crocodiles”, then we take a power model, and if you want more versatility, then the choice can be made on the “golden mean” - reels with a gear ratio of 5.0: 1, or with indicator close to this value.

Dimensions and weight of coils

As mentioned above, every year manufacturers bring lighter and lighter reel models to the market, without compromising their reliability. They do this for a reason, because the lighter the reel, the more pleasant it is to fish, but still going to extremes is also unacceptable. The main thing is that the weight and size of the reel are in balance with the rod. What is the balance of a rod and reel is difficult to describe, you need to feel it. Regarding the weight of the reel, there is an opinion that the weight of the reel should approximately correspond to two weights of the rod, plus or minus 30 grams. For example, the weight of the rod is 100g, which means the weight of the reel should be around 200g, plus or minus 30 grams. True, this rule is somewhat arbitrary, but in the vast majority of cases it works.

All reels have a so-called size, which is indicated in numbers: 500, 1000, 2000, and so on. But that’s not the problem; the classification of coil sizes is still not unified among manufacturers. Therefore, if you pick up a thousand-size reel from two different manufacturers, you can visually see a slight difference in size. Although, it is worth noting that most manufacturers still accepted the size classification developed by Shimano as a standard.

To choose the correct size reel, you need to take into account such rod parameters as length and test. Below is a table that describes the relationship between the technical parameters of the fishing rod and the size of the reel. We think the principle of the table is clear. Let's say we have a rod with a length of 220 cm and a test weight of 10-25 grams. Let's look at the table. Our spinning rod’s length falls into the “UP TO 240” category, and according to the test it falls more into the “15-30” category, therefore, the suitable reel size is 2000-2500.

Rod length, cm	Rod test, g	Number size according toShimano

Friction brake

A friction brake is a reel mechanism that allows the line to be automatically released when the fish jerks strongly. Thanks to the friction brake, line breaks during fishing are reduced to a minimum. The main thing is to set the brake correctly. The quality of this mechanism directly determines the number of fish runs and the number of line breaks. The smoother the brake setting, the better. In high-quality reels, the friction brake has a very smooth setting, and also has an anti-blocking function. The anti-blocking function allows the line to be released when the fish jerks strongly, even if the friction brake is clamped in the maximum position. The benefits of the anti-lock braking system are obvious. It is not uncommon for an angler to simply forget to release the clutch and fish with the brake tightened tightly. A large fish bites, one powerful jerk and the line breaks. And if the reel is equipped with an anti-locking friction brake, then such a problem will not happen.

There are two types of friction brakes - front and rear. It’s hard to say which one is better, because they work equally efficiently, but in terms of ease of use, it’s up to you to decide which one you like best. However, there is an opinion that the front friction brake is more reliable than the rear one, although the difference in reliability is not very noticeable. What is clearly felt is the difference in precision and smoothness of tuning, and in this regard, the front clutch wins. Practice shows that you can easily get used to both one and the other type, but if you are already “hooked” on one of them, then it is already difficult to switch to another type. It's a habit and nothing more.

The spool is a removable element of the reel design that serves as a line storage device. Spools come in plastic and metal. A metal spool is preferable, as it is perfect for using both monofilament fishing line and braided cords. But a plastic spool can only be used with fishing line. As practice shows, over time, a braided cord simply grinds off the side of the plastic spool, which deteriorates both the spool and the cord. Moreover, this problem has been noticed even on spools made of very durable plastic.

Spools also differ in line capacity. Usually the capacity in meters is indicated on the spool for each specific line diameter. Attention, the capacity information indicated on the spool is only valid for fishing line, but it does not apply to braided cord.

Another difference is the so-called spool geometry, that is, the ratio of depth and width. There are two main options for spool geometry - classic (when the width is approximately equal to the depth), and the second option is Long Cast geometry (when the spool depth is not large, but the length is increased. Spools with Long Cast geometry have an advantage over the “classic” in terms of casting range It should be noted that on some reel models you can put spools of different sizes. For example, on some reel models in the 2000th size you can put a spool of both the 2000th and 1500th size. That is, in fact, just by changing spool, we get a reel of a slightly different size.The benefit of this feature is obvious.

Many reel models are equipped with a spare spool, and this is good, since then it is possible to equip one spool with fishing line and the other with cord. In some cases, having both a fishing line and a cord when fishing is very useful. For example, when fishing is carried out with one spinning rod and one reel, but different methods of spinning fishing are used. So, a cord is better for jigging, and a fishing line is better for fishing with spinners. And it turns out that without changing the spinning rod and reel, but only by rearranging the spool, we make a universal tackle. If the selected reel model is not equipped with an additional spool, it doesn’t matter - you can buy it separately, although for some models this is not easy, but whoever looks for it will find it!

Number of bearings

In the design of a spinning reel, bearings play a very important role, and the performance of the entire reel largely depends on their quality and quantity. However, a large number of bearings in a reel does not mean that the product is of high quality. In most cases, “oversaturation” of the reel with bearings is just a marketing ploy. Chinese “craftsmen” are especially guilty of this. In fact, the optimal number of bearings in a reel is 4-6 pieces.

Reel handle

Most reel models are equipped with handles that can be rearranged for both the left and right hands, but there are models in which the handle is not rearranged, that is, it is permanently installed on one side. And when buying you need to be careful in this matter. As for the ergonomics of the handle, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of options - a variety of shapes, materials, etc. And here it’s pointless to give any advice, since everyone has their own taste. But based on the mechanism for bringing the handle into the transport position, we can say that it is better to take a reel in which the handle folds by unscrewing the screw. As practice shows, the mechanisms for quickly bringing the handle into the transport position wear out quickly and, as a result, an unpleasant backlash is formed.

Brands

If you look through fishing stores, you can now count at least a hundred manufacturers producing reels. True, the lion's share of them are not well-known Asian brands.

The real market leaders are the Japanese companies Shimano and Daiwa. These are long-time competitors, and in the competitive struggle, trying to get ahead of each other, they were always one step ahead of everyone else. It’s hard to say which of them is better, but one thing is certain – a reel from Shimano or Daiwa will not disappoint with its quality. To be fair, it is worth noting that nowadays many manufacturers make high-quality reels, and the best thing is that they are of good quality at fairly liberal prices. We’ll just list the manufacturers whose reels have a good reputation. So these are Ryobi (Japan), Mitchell (France), Abu Garcia (Sweden), SPRO (Holland), Zebco (USA), Okuma (China), Salmo (Latvia) and many others.

So, let’s say, based on your requirements, you have your eye on several reel models, and the question arises: “Which reel should you take?” And here the Internet can come to your aid, fortunately, it is now available everywhere. How can he help? And it’s simple - go to fishing forums and read reviews of specific reel owners. Of course, the information obtained from such reviews should be “filtered”, since the proverb: “Every sandpiper praises its own swamp” has not been canceled! We read, filter, think and make the right choice!

We hope that the information presented in the article will help you make the right choice! However, it must be remembered that the reel will serve for a long time and reliably only if it is used correctly. Even the most expensive reel can be destroyed in a few fishing trips, so no need to neglect the operating rules! But that is another topic.

Number of impressions: 79186

What do you mean by the word “reel”? Well... this is probably some kind of “fig” on which threads, fishing line, rope, whatever! An inductor coil is exactly the same thing, but instead of a thread, fishing line or anything else, ordinary copper wire in insulation is wound there.

The insulation can be made of clear varnish, PVC insulation, or even fabric. The trick here is that even though the wires in the inductor are very close to each other, they still isolated from each other. If you wind inductor coils with your own hands, do not under any circumstances even think about using ordinary bare copper wire!

Inductance

Any inductor has inductance. Coil inductance is measured in Henry(Gn), indicated by a letter L and is measured using an LC meter.

What is inductance? If an electric current is passed through a wire, it will create a magnetic field around itself:

Where

B – magnetic field, Wb

I –

Let's take this wire and wind it into a spiral and apply voltage to its ends

And we get this picture with magnetic lines of force:

Roughly speaking, the more magnetic field lines cross the area of ​​this solenoid, in our case the area of ​​the cylinder, the greater the magnetic flux will be (F). Since an electric current flows through the coil, it means that a current with the current intensity passes through it (I), and the coefficient between magnetic flux and current strength is called inductance and is calculated by the formula:

From a scientific point of view, inductance is the ability to extract energy from a source of electric current and store it in the form of a magnetic field. If the current in the coil increases, the magnetic field around the coil expands, and if the current decreases, the magnetic field contracts.

Self-induction

The inductor also has a very interesting property. When a constant voltage is applied to the coil, an opposite voltage appears in the coil for a short period of time.

This opposite voltage is called Self-induced emf. This depends on the inductance value of the coil. Therefore, at the moment the voltage is applied to the coil, the current gradually changes its value from 0 to a certain value within a fraction of a second, because the voltage, at the moment the electric current is applied, also changes its value from zero to a steady value. According to Ohm's Law:

Where

I– current strength in the coil, A

U– voltage in the coil, V

R– coil resistance, Ohm

As we can see from the formula, the voltage changes from zero to the voltage supplied to the coil, therefore the current will also change from zero to some value. The coil resistance for DC is also constant.

And the second phenomenon in the inductor is that if we open the circuit between the inductor and the current source, then our self-induction emf will be added to the voltage that we have already applied to the coil.

That is, as soon as we break the circuit, the voltage on the coil at that moment can be many times greater than it was before the circuit was broken, and the current strength in the coil circuit will quietly fall, since the self-induction emf will maintain the decreasing voltage.

Let us draw the first conclusions about the operation of the inductor when DC current is supplied to it. When electric current is supplied to the coil, the current strength will gradually increase, and when electric current is removed from the coil, the current strength will smoothly decrease to zero. In short, the current strength in the coil cannot change instantly.

Types of Inductors

Inductors are divided mainly into two classes: with magnetic and non-magnetic core. Below in the photo is a coil with a non-magnetic core.

But where is her core? Air is a non-magnetic core :-). Such coils can also be wound on some cylindrical paper tube. Inductance coils with a non-magnetic core are used when the inductance does not exceed 5 millihenry.

And here are the inductors with a core:

Cores made of ferrite and iron plates are mainly used. The cores increase the inductance of the coils significantly. Cores in the form of a ring (toroidal) allow you to obtain higher inductance than just cylinder cores.

For medium inductance coils, ferrite cores are used:

Coils with high inductance are made like a transformer with an iron core, but with one winding, unlike a transformer.

Chokes

There is also a special type of inductor. These are the so-called. An inductor is an inductor whose job is to create a high resistance to alternating current in the circuit in order to suppress high frequency currents.

Direct current passes through the inductor without problems. You can read why this happens in this article. Typically, chokes are connected in the power supply circuits of amplifying devices. Chokes are designed to protect power supplies from high frequency signals (RF signals). At low frequencies (LF) they are used in power supply circuits and usually have metal or ferrite cores. Below in the photo are power chokes:

There is also another special type of chokes - this. It consists of two counter-wound inductors. Due to counter-winding and mutual induction, it is more efficient. Twin chokes are widely used as input filters for power supplies, as well as in audio technology.

Experiments with a coil

On what factors does the inductance of the coil depend? Let's do some experiments. I wound a coil with a non-magnetic core. Its inductance is so small that the LC meter shows zero to me.

Has a ferrite core

I begin to insert the coil into the core to the very edge

The LC meter reads 21 microhenry.

I insert the coil into the middle of the ferrite

35 microhenry. Already better.

I continue to insert the coil onto the right edge of the ferrite

20 microhenry. We conclude The largest inductance on a cylindrical ferrite occurs in its middle. Therefore, if you wind on a cylinder, try to wind in the middle of the ferrite. This property is used to smoothly change the inductance in variable inductors:

Where

1 – this is the coil frame

2 – these are the turns of the coil

3 – core, which has a groove on top for a small screwdriver. By screwing or unscrewing the core, we thereby change the inductance of the coil.

The inductance has become almost 50 microhenry!

Let's try to straighten the turns throughout the ferrite

13 microhenry. We conclude: For maximum inductance, the coil must be wound “turn to turn”.

Let's reduce the turns of the coil by half. There were 24 orbits, now there are 12.

Very low inductance. I reduced the number of turns by 2 times, the inductance decreased by 10 times. Conclusion: the lower the number of turns, the lower the inductance and vice versa. Inductance does not change linearly across turns.

Let's experiment with a ferrite ring.

We measure inductance

15 microhenry

Let's move the coil turns away from each other

Let's measure again

Hmm, also 15 microhenry. We conclude: The distance from turn to turn does not play any role in a toroidal inductor.

Let's make more turns. There were 3 turns, now there are 9.

We measure

Wow! Increased the number of turns by 3 times, and the inductance increased by 12 times! Conclusion: Inductance does not change linearly across turns.

If you believe the formulas for calculating inductances, inductance depends on the “turns squared”. I won’t post these formulas here, because I don’t see the need. I will only say that inductance also depends on such parameters as the core (what material it is made of), the cross-sectional area of ​​the core, and the length of the coil.

Designation on diagrams

Series and parallel connection of coils

At series connection of inductors, their total inductance will be equal to the sum of the inductances.

And when parallel connection we get this:

When connecting inductances, the following must be done: The rule is that they should be spatially spaced on the board. This is because if they are close to each other, their magnetic fields will influence each other and therefore the readings of the inductances will be incorrect. Do not place two or more toroidal coils on one iron axis. This may result in incorrect total inductance readings.

Summary

The inductor plays a very important role in electronics, especially in transceiver equipment. Various types of electronic radio equipment are also built on inductor coils, and in electrical engineering it is also used as a current surge limiter.

The guys from Soldering Iron made a very good video about an inductor. I definitely recommend watching:

Inertial reels (wheels)

advantages.

TO shortcomings These coils include:

expressways power universal

Multiplier reels

trolling and for spinning.

Powerful trolling reels

Spinning reels classicsoap dishes

Spool size and material

Gear ratio

Universal - from 4.6 to 5.5

Friction brake

Front clutch

Rear clutch

Number of bearings

Line laying machine

Reel handle

Indexes

FA, FB, FC

PG (Power Gear)
XG (Extra High Gear)- very high,
HG (High Gear)
S- small spool,
D.H.- double handle,
C

Reels You can buy in our online store.

The quality of the tackle largely depends on the reel. Therefore, choosing the right reel is an integral part of preparing for fishing.

The reels should match the rest of the gear as much as possible, and you shouldn’t put an aircraft engine on the “cart” (it won’t take off anyway). Small reels are placed on light and flexible fishing rods of float rods and some other fishing rods; larger reels are placed on heavier rods with long and strong fishing line for heavy and active spinning fishing.

The range of reels is huge - from small wire reels to huge catfish reels and reels for sea fishing.

The design of the reels is also varied - from very primitive models to reels capable of independently catching fish (built-in electric motor) and equipped with an electronic display showing the approximate size of the fish caught.

In its most general form, a reel consists of a body with an axis and a drum (spool) with handles rotating on this axis. The body has a foot for installing the reel on the rod, as well as a braking device.

The drums are designed to wind from 30 m to 400 m of fishing line.

Coil parts are made of plastics, ceramics, graphite and metal (aluminum, anodized duralumin, high-alloy stainless steel, titanium, bronze). The parts are coated with chrome-plated metal and Teflon.

All reels are divided into three types: inertial, inertial-free and multiplier. One or another type of reel is selected depending on the fishing method.

Inertial reels (wheels)

Inertial coils appeared earlier than others.

The axis of rotation of the drum of such a reel is located in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the fishing rod.

The rotation handle is located on the edge of the drum cover. One revolution of the drum is equal to one turn of line. When casting the tackle, the drum rotates and has some braking effect on the flight of the nozzle.

The best models in this class of reels have a range of advantages.

• The first is the direct contact of the angler with the bait, not degraded by the mass of transmission links, as with other types.
• The second is power (high thrust): the angler’s effort is not weakened by numerous gears, in addition, in such a reel there is practically nothing to break under heavy load.
• The simplicity of the device determines the ease of maintenance and relatively low cost of such coils.

TO shortcomings These coils include:

• short casting of light baits (due to the inertia of the drum),
• the appearance of “beards” (when the drum rotates slightly faster than the line unwinds),
• the need for significant space for the swing when casting.

Simplicity and cheapness, of course, make these reels accessible to the public, but the casting process requires a certain skill (achieved with experience), otherwise the aforementioned “beard” and lengthy unraveling of the fishing line cannot be avoided.

Inertia-free reels (meat grinders)

With inertia-free reels, when casting, the drum (spool) with fishing line does not rotate, and the fishing line comes off the end of the spool to the required length with virtually no resistance. Thanks to this, you can cast the bait much further than with an inertial reel.

The spool rotation axis of an inertia-free reel is parallel to the axis of the rod.

The line is wound onto the reel by rotating the handle.

According to the speed of rotation of the rotor, the coils are divided into expressways, with a gear ratio (the number of drum revolutions per drum revolution) from 1:6 to 1:7.2, and power, with a number from 1:4 to 1:4.5. TO universal These include coils with a gear ratio from 1:5 to 1:5.5.

The components of inertia-free coils must satisfy the following conditions.

It is desirable that the coil body be metal.

The side of the spool (the line rubs against it) should be made of a non-abrasive material (preferably titanium nitride).

The most expensive spools are made of metal, cheaper ones are made of graphite, duralumin and plastic.

The line layer (provides uniform winding of the fishing line) should be made like an endless screw (worm), then the layers of the fishing line lie crosswise, which prevents the formation of “beards”.

The line roller must be wear-resistant, preferably made of titanium nitride.

The friction brake is designed to release the fishing line under critical loads: hooking, fishing, hooks. Thanks to him, the spool simply turns and “hands over” the line. It should have smooth adjustment and not change the force spontaneously.

The gear must be made of wear-resistant material; other materials are not durable. It is advisable to have a fuse on the drive pair gear to minimize the shock loads that occur when hooking and retrieving.

Typically, a reel uses up to 15 bearings. It is desirable that there be at least four of them.

In total, the coil has up to 20 friction units, depending on the design. The most important components where bearings are necessary are the small and large gears of the rotor main gear, the line roller, the propeller supports, and the handle handle.

A reel with a sufficient number of bearings is durable, resistant to overloads, and has reliable brakes. Reels without bearings tend to be heavier, stiffer and less durable.

When purchasing, you should pay attention to the quality of movement (the spool and handle should rotate easily and silently), and the absence of backlash (only axial play of the spool is allowed).

Multiplier reels

Multiplier reels are a kind of symbiosis of the two previous models. The axis of rotation of the drum is located, like that of inertial reels, in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the rod. The drum also rotates when casting, but does not have much inertial mass, since it represents a more or less thick axis.

A transmission mechanism was inherited from the inertia-free reel, increasing the number of drum revolutions when the handle is turned with a gear ratio from 1:3 to 1:5.2.

Also from the “meat grinders” were taken the reverse blocking and the system of automatic line release under critical loads (friction brake), which allows the use of light baits.

Although multiplier reels are inferior to inertia-free reels in casting and reeling speed, they are superior to them in pulling force and sensitivity, and are also more reliable and durable.

Multiplier reels are available for trolling and for spinning.

Powerful trolling reels mainly used for sea fishing.

Spinning reels are available in two versions: " classic" - work well with medium and heavy attachments and the so-called " soap dishes" - more sensitive with a magnetic brake for working with light attachments.

Reels of this class require certain qualifications of the fisherman (when casting and retrieving), but if you have no problems using inertial reels, then you should not have any particular difficulties when switching to multiplier reels (casting and retrieving are not fundamentally different).

Key points to consider when choosing a reel.

Spool size and material

Each reel is marked with a number, for example, 2000 - this is the size of the spool, that is, its size. Depending on the size of the spool, each reel can only use a certain line thickness and length. These values ​​are indicated on the bobbin. For feeder fishing, a spool of size 3000 will be quite enough, but not less than 2000.

Typically, spools are made of metal, graphite and plastic. Metal spools, for example, aluminum are convenient for braided fishing line (cords), graphite - for fishing line.

It is better not to take plastic spools - they are very short-lived. The spool can also be coated with titanium nitrite. This is necessary to ensure that the spool is smooth and free of scratches. This undoubtedly increases the service life of the fishing line, especially the braided line (saving it from premature fraying).

Choose a reel with a spare spool, especially if you fish in a variety of ways. It is best that you have one metal and one graphite spool. Also, a spare spool is convenient for a quick change in case your line breaks or you need a line of a different diameter.

Gear ratio

The gear ratio is a parameter that means the ratio of one full revolution of the handle to the number of revolutions of the line layer. The gear ratio can be indicated on the reel body by the following expression: 5.0: 1, 5.3: 1, etc. This inscription means that one corresponds to one revolution of the handle, and the second number indicates the corresponding number of revolutions of the line layer. The higher the ratio, the faster the coil, and vice versa, the lower the ratio, the more powerful the coil. According to this parameter, coils are divided into:

Power or traction – the first number is up to 4.6. Designed for catching large fish when it is necessary to overcome heavy loads.

Universal - from 4.6 to 5.5

Speed ​​​​- from 5.5 and above. Used for fishing with fairly fast retrieve. Such coils are more sensitive.

Therefore, high-speed reels are used for float fishing, while power reels are more suitable for spinning fishing.

Friction brake

The friction brake serves to release the fishing line when playing fish, thereby relieving the load from the fishing line and the rod blank. Prevents breakage and breakage of all gear. There are two types of friction brakes: front and rear:

Front clutch more convenient location. It makes the reel more compact and lighter. It is easier to adjust and the braking force is greater.

Rear clutch Suitable for regulating fishing. Also, replacing the spool is much faster. However, the rear clutch has a bad feature - it gradually unwinds and has to be tightened.

Number of bearings

There can be up to 15 pieces in a reel. 4-6 bearings are quite enough. They make the operation of mechanisms smoother and more stable. Reels without bearings malfunction and quickly become unusable. Usually, cheap reels are made without bearings, the parts of which are not of the highest quality.

The more bearings, the greater the weight of the reel and the more expensive it is. However, you should not choose reels based on the number of bearings, high-quality reels from well-known companies with a large number of bearings will be very expensive, and Chinese ones will be cheap, but if you compare the quality of both bearings, then the Chinese ones will fall apart quite quickly, and such reels will last you much less. than higher quality reels from well-known brands such as Mitchel or Shimano with much fewer bearings.

Line laying machine

The line-laying arm must have a rigid fixation in the open position, otherwise, when fishing during casting, it may close, your favorite bait will come off and fly into the depths of the fished reservoir (the so-called “bait shooting”). It’s easy to check the fixation - open the bail and shake the reel vigorously (as if you were casting) several times.

If the bow closes easily, then most likely such a reel will fail you more than once on the “battlefield”. When making a full turn of the handle, the bow should close on its own. Do this several times to make sure it works well.

It is very important that when closing the bow, the line immediately falls onto the roller without getting caught on anything. Carefully inspect the surface of the transition from the bow to the roller; there should be no burrs, protrusions, irregularities or similar troubles along the line path. The line roller should rotate easily (even from the slightest touch).

Reel handle

Most reel models are equipped with handles that can be rearranged for both the left and right hands, but there are models in which the handle is not rearranged, that is, it is permanently installed on one side. And when buying you need to be careful in this matter. As for the ergonomics of the handle, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of options - a variety of shapes, materials, etc. And here it’s pointless to give any advice, since everyone has their own taste.

But based on the mechanism for bringing the handle into the transport position, we can say that it is better to take a reel in which the handle folds by unscrewing the screw. As practice shows, the mechanisms for quickly bringing the handle into the transport position wear out quickly and, as a result, an unpleasant backlash is formed.

Indexes

Often, in the name of the coil, you can find indices (letter designations), few people know what they mean.

FA, FB, FC in the name of the reel means that the reel is intended for the European market. F - indicates for which market the reel was manufactured, in this case for Europe, the second letter - the generation (modification) of the series. Those. if the letter A is the earliest series (first), B is, respectively, the later one, etc. according to the Latin alphabet. Reels produced for the Japanese market do not have letter prefixes.

Also, in the name of the coil, you can find such indices as:

PG (Power Gear) indicates a low gear,
XG (Extra High Gear)- very high,
HG (High Gear)- indicates overdrive,
S- small spool,
D.H.- double handle,
C- the ratio of the coil to the previous actual size (housing, rotor).

Welcome everyone to our website!

We continue to study electronics from the very beginning, that is, from the very basics, and the topic of today’s article will be operating principle and main characteristics of inductors. Looking ahead, I will say that first we will discuss theoretical aspects, and several future articles will be devoted entirely to consideration of various electrical circuits that use inductors, as well as elements that we studied earlier in our course - and.

The design and principle of operation of an inductor.

As is already clear from the name of the element, an inductor, first of all, is just a coil :), that is, a large number of turns of an insulated conductor. Moreover, the presence of insulation is the most important condition - the turns of the coil should not short-circuit with each other. Most often, the turns are wound on a cylindrical or toroidal frame:

The most important characteristic inductors is, naturally, inductance, otherwise why would it be given such a name :) Inductance is the ability to convert the energy of an electric field into the energy of a magnetic field. This property of the coil is due to the fact that when current flows through the conductor, a magnetic field appears around it:

And here’s what the magnetic field that appears when current passes through the coil looks like:

In general, strictly speaking, any element in an electrical circuit has inductance, even an ordinary piece of wire. But the fact is that the magnitude of such inductance is very insignificant, in contrast to the inductance of coils. Actually, in order to characterize this value, the Henry (H) unit of measurement is used. 1 Henry is actually a very large value, so µH (microhenry) and mH (milihenry) are most often used. Size inductance coils can be calculated using the following formula:

Let's figure out what kind of value is included in this expression:

It follows from the formula that as the number of turns or, for example, the diameter (and, accordingly, the cross-sectional area) of the coil increases, the inductance will increase. And as the length increases, it decreases. Thus, the turns on the coil should be placed as close to each other as possible, since this will lead to a decrease in the length of the coil.

WITH inductor device We've figured it out, it's time to consider the physical processes that occur in this element when an electric current passes. To do this, we will consider two circuits - in one we will pass direct current through the coil, and in the other - alternating current :)

So, first of all, let's figure out what happens in the coil itself when current flows. If the current does not change its value, then the coil has no effect on it. Does this mean that in the case of direct current the use of inductors should not be considered? But no :) After all, direct current can be turned on/off, and it’s at the moments of switching that all the most interesting things happen. Let's look at the circuit:

In this case, the resistor acts as a load; in its place there could be, for example, a lamp. In addition to the resistor and inductance, the circuit includes a DC source and a switch with which we will close and open the circuit.

What happens the moment we close the switch?

Coil Current will begin to change, since at the previous moment in time it was equal to 0. A change in current will lead to a change in the magnetic flux inside the coil, which, in turn, will cause the occurrence of EMF (electromotive force) of self-induction, which can be expressed as follows:

The occurrence of EMF will lead to the appearance of an induced current in the coil, which will flow in the direction opposite to the direction of the power source current. Thus, the self-induced emf will prevent current from flowing through the coil (the induced current will cancel the circuit current due to the fact that their directions are opposite). This means that at the initial moment of time (immediately after closing the switch) the current through the coil will be equal to 0. At this moment in time, the self-induction EMF is maximum. What will happen next? Since the magnitude of the EMF is directly proportional to the rate of change of current, it will gradually weaken, and the current, accordingly, on the contrary, will increase. Let's look at graphs that illustrate what we've discussed:

In the first graph we see circuit input voltage– the circuit is initially open, but when the switch is closed, a constant value appears. In the second graph we see change in current through the coil inductance. Immediately after closing the switch, the current is absent due to the occurrence of self-induction EMF, and then begins to gradually increase. The voltage on the coil, on the contrary, is at its maximum at the initial moment of time, and then decreases. The voltage graph across the load will coincide in shape (but not in magnitude) with the current graph through the coil (since in a series connection the current flowing through different elements of the circuit is the same). Thus, if we use a lamp as a load, they will not light up immediately after closing the switch, but with a slight delay (in accordance with the current graph).

A similar transient process in the circuit will be observed when the key is opened. A self-inductive emf will arise in the inductor, but the induced current in the event of an open circuit will be directed in the same direction as the current in the circuit, and not in the opposite direction, therefore the stored energy of the inductor will be used to maintain the current in the circuit:

After the switch is opened, a self-induction emf occurs, which prevents the current through the coil from decreasing, so the current does not reach zero immediately, but after some time. The voltage in the coil is identical in shape to the case of closing the switch, but opposite in sign. This is due to the fact that the change in current, and accordingly the self-inductive emf in the first and second cases, is opposite in sign (in the first case, the current increases, and in the second it decreases).

By the way, I mentioned that the magnitude of the self-induction EMF is directly proportional to the rate of change of current, so the proportionality coefficient is nothing more than the inductance of the coil:

This concludes with inductors in DC circuits and moves on to AC circuits.

Consider a circuit in which alternating current is supplied to the inductor:

Let's look at the dependences of current and self-induction EMF on time, and then we'll figure out why they look like this:

As we have already found out Self-induced emf we have a directly proportional and opposite sign of the rate of change of current:

Actually, the graph shows us this dependence :) See for yourself - between points 1 and 2 the current changes, and the closer to point 2, the smaller the changes, and at point 2 for a short period of time the current does not change at all its meaning. Accordingly, the rate of change of current is maximum at point 1 and smoothly decreases as it approaches point 2, and at point 2 it is equal to 0, which is what we see in self-induced emf graph. Moreover, over the entire interval 1-2, the current increases, which means the rate of its change is positive, and therefore the EMF across this entire interval, on the contrary, takes negative values.

Similarly, between points 2 and 3 - the current decreases - the rate of change of the current is negative and increases - the self-induction emf increases and is positive. I won’t describe the remaining sections of the graph - all processes there proceed according to the same principle :)

In addition, on the graph you can notice a very important point - with increasing current (sections 1-2 and 3-4), the self-induction EMF and current have different signs (section 1-2: , title="Rendered by QuickLaTeX.com" height="12" width="39" style="vertical-align: 0px;">, участок 3-4: title="Rendered by QuickLaTeX.com" height="12" width="41" style="vertical-align: 0px;">, ). Таким образом, ЭДС самоиндукции препятствует возрастанию тока (индукционные токи направлены “навстречу” току источника). А на участках 2-3 и 4-5 все наоборот – ток убывает, а ЭДС препятствует убыванию тока (поскольку индукционные токи будут направлены в ту же сторону, что и ток источника и будут частично компенсировать уменьшение тока). И в итоге мы приходим к очень интересному факту – катушка индуктивности оказывает сопротивление переменному току, протекающему по цепи. А значит она имеет сопротивление, которое называется индуктивным или реактивным и вычисляется следующим образом:!}

Where is the circular frequency: . - This .

Thus, the higher the frequency of the current, the greater the resistance the inductor will provide to it. And if the current is constant (= 0), then the reactance of the coil is 0, accordingly, it has no effect on the flowing current.

Let's go back to our graphs that we made for the case of using an inductor in an AC circuit. We have determined the self-induction emf of the coil, but what will the voltage be? Everything here is actually simple :) According to Kirchhoff’s 2nd law:

And consequently:

Let's plot the dependence of current and voltage in the circuit on time on one graph:

As you can see, the current and voltage are shifted in phase () relative to each other, and this is one of the most important properties of alternating current circuits in which an inductor is used:

When an inductor is connected to an alternating current circuit, a phase shift appears in the circuit between voltage and current, with the current being out of phase with the voltage by a quarter of a period.

So we figured out how to connect the coil to the AC circuit :)

This is where we will probably finish today’s article; it has already turned out to be quite lengthy, so we will continue our conversation about inductors next time. So see you soon, we will be glad to see you on our website!