Tour "Climbing Kilimanjaro" (7 days). Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) - Climbing Kilimanjaro: description Is it possible to climb Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro is a volcano in Tanzania with a height of 5895 meters, highest peak Africa. Climbing to the highest point of the mountain, Uhuru Peak is quite accessible to an unprepared person, taking into account the necessary acclimatization, of course. In any case, this is just a hike in the mountains, not mountaineering or rock climbing. Officially, you can only climb the mountain accompanied by a large group of assistants, so even the equipment does not need to be carried on your own. Experienced hikers here will smile indulgently, but for an ordinary person, eight days in tents and a hike of seventy kilometers sounds like a challenge!

First I will tell you some general information on preparation, and then I will tell you in more detail about each day of the ascent.

Organization

The lift was organized by Ultimate Kilimanjaro (www.ultimatekilimanjaro.com). I highly recommend their website, it has a lot of useful information. I searched for reviews on the Internet. There were no overlays, we were satisfied. We climbed together with my wife, we were accompanied by 11 people - the main guide, assistant guide, cook, waiter, seven porters. You can’t refuse, unemployment in Tanzania, you need to somehow occupy people. All personal belongings during the trip are carried by porters, tourists carry only a personal backpack with the things necessary for the day. Also, porters carry all other equipment, tents, food. Tour for two ($2,400 per person) includes porters and guides, all meals, stay in the national park (about $100 per person per day), individual lift supplement ($200 per person), hotel accommodation per night before and after climbing, transfer from the airport. Tips are not included.

Route

You can climb on six routes: Marangu (5-6 days), Umbwe (5-7 days), Mashame (6-7 days), Rongai (6-7 days), Shira (6-7 days), Lemosho (6- 8 days). I chose the longest Lemosho route, 8 days. Once acclimatization, then to the maximum - the probability of a successful ascent in this case increases significantly.

Climbing the Marangu and Rongai route descend the Marangu route, ascending the other routes use a special route to descend Mweka.

Route layout by day:

mountain sickness

The main difficulty in climbing Kilimanjaro can be mountain sickness caused by oxygen starvation when climbing too fast. Symptoms - headache, nausea, dizziness, loss of appetite, fatigue, insomnia, loss of breath. Each person reacts very differently to height. My wife and I have climbed to a maximum altitude of 4500 meters on our previous trips and did not suffer from symptoms of altitude sickness, but decided not to rely on chance, but to turn to the achievements of pharmacology. I also chose a longer route to increase the natural period of acclimatization. For better acclimatization, the following is recommended:

1. during the day to climb to a greater height than the one at which the next camp is located;
2. climb slowly, but at a constant pace. A simple test - if you can't carry on a conversation while walking, then it's too fast for you;
3. eat and drink enough (without alcohol, of course).

Medications

I collected the first aid kit using the information available on the Internet (not the best option, of course, but as it is). What I took with me:

1. Riboxin - antihypoxic effect, improvement of the heart. We drank all the way.
2. Diacarb (Diamox) - reduces the time of acclimatization, prevention of mountain sickness. Taken within the first two days. Diuretic.
3. Nurofen - pain reliever, as the headache occurs.
4. Aspakarm - replenishment of potassium and magnesium reserves, taken together with Diakarb.
5. Hypoxen - reduces oxygen consumption by the body and increases efficiency in high altitude conditions. We drank all the way.

All dosage according to the instructions. The rest of the medicines are normal. Before the trip, they drank vitamins. Some people take sleeping pills, but we didn't use them. Because mountain sickness did not cover my wife and I, Nurofen was practically not useful. We also continued to drink the antimalarial drug Malaron.

Clothing and equipment

The most important piece of equipment is the sleeping bag. During the nights it is cold and you need to take it seriously. In the assault camp, the temperature was somewhere between zero and five degrees Celsius, and this was despite very favorable weather in general. I didn’t have winter sleeping bags, I had to buy new ones (I didn’t consider renting, after all, a bag is very personal). I bought Alexica Delta sleeping bags with -10 comfort temperature. Well, I don’t know how it was at minus ten, but they served us well on Kilimanjaro, everywhere, except for the last camp, it was possible to sleep without thermal underwear. And I don’t know if this is a bug or a feature, but these two sleeping bags could be combined into one! :)

As for other equipment (per person):

1. Ski suit (only for assault)
2. Windproof and waterproof trekking pants and jacket
3. Thermal underwear (several sets)
4. Thermal socks (two pairs)
5. Fliska
6. Trekking and ski gloves
7. The hat is warm
8. Camelback drinking system for a two-liter backpack (during the assault, the water in the tubes freezes, but the rest of the time it is extremely convenient)
9. Headlamps (for assault and going to the toilet at night, with extra batteries)
10. Sunglasses
11. "Liquid shower", wet wipes, toilet paper.
12. Trekking poles (can be rented on site)
13. One large backpack (porters carry) and one small backpack (you drag it yourself)
14. Membrane trekking boots
15. Raincoat
16. Ointment for burns
17. Sunscreen

The rest of the things are like in a normal trip. The repellent was useless. They didn’t take extra food or snacks with them, they feed them for slaughter. I read advice that you need to take something to eat with you on the rise, chocolate or nuts - it was also not needed, it was not at all up to it. I used huge black trash bags to pack my things.
So let's go! If I forgot something, I'll add it along the way. If you have questions - ask!

The first day

We flew into Kilimanjaro International Airport from Nairobi. We were met by the driver and taken to a hotel in the city of Moshi. We met with the team the next morning, received an initial briefing. We drove from the hotel to the gates of the national park for about 4 hours, on the way we stopped at a store, in which, in addition to simply shamelessly jacked up prices, they also tried to stupidly shortchange me with change. We rented trekking poles.

1. At the entrance to the park - registration and repacking of things. All things are weighed, here they strictly monitor that the porter does not take more than it should be.

2. Packed lunch for lunch. Neighing over a couple, which solemnly covered the whole dining tent - the first, second and compote. We met them later on the route - they always set up a separate tent for lunch. So on the road you can get almost any level of comfort - for example, you can order a separate porter with a dry closet.

3. We register in the ledger and we are ready to go further.

4. For some time we continued our journey by car, then we landed right on the road and started our hike.

5. We walked along the road for some time, then the trail began in the rain forest. The route of the first day is not difficult at all, we go ahead of schedule, 2.5 hours we climb to the camp in the forest. The wife grumbles that we are going too slowly.

6. In the camp I watched amazing white monkeys with very fluffy tails. Ha-ha, before that I had not yet had to photograph animals high in the trees with a wide-angle lens - I did not take a telephoto with me, I left it with other things unnecessary during the campaign in the hotel. Still, I didn’t want to carry an additional one and a half kilograms of cargo myself, and it’s scary to trust porters. And without that, the camera significantly weighed down my backpack (daypack). In general, the backpack turned out to be quite stuffed and heavy - a two-liter camelback flask, a camera, a raincoat, a fleece, an additional bottle of water, documents, a phone, a passport. In one of the camps I weighed my backpack - 8 kilograms with water.

7. In the evening I had a little headache, then I just didn’t sleep well - the people around were noisy (well, damn they couldn’t sleep, just to tryndet), then I ran to the toilet (diakarb worked, yeah). The toilet in the camp is like a toilet, but clean.

Every morning and evening, the guide checked our well-being - a survey, checking the pulse and oxygen content in the blood. I wrote everything down in a notebook. He said he would turn back if we felt bad.

Water was initially given in bottles, 3 liters per person. On the way, they took water from the river and filtered it. There was no communication on the route yet, there is no electricity in the camp either. The camp is small, by the evening it was all full. Upon arrival at the camp, we register in the book. There were no Russians on this route for a long time, mostly English-speaking tourists - Canadians, British, Australians, Americans. I did not take the iPad, I write notes with a pen on paper.

To be continued...

Kenya and Tanzania - all

Marangu itinerary 5 days $1766

Marangu itinerary 6 days 2009$

Lemasho route 6 days $2109

Lemasho route 7 days $2329

Machame itinerary 6 days 2033$

Machame itinerary 7 days $2253

Rongai route 6 days $2105

* the price is indicated for groups of 3 people - for one, two or more people, check the cost - there are discounts.

The price of the ascent includes:

• meeting at Kilimanjaro International Airport;
• transfer to the hotel in Moshi;
• hotel accommodation before climbing (breakfast included, accommodation in double rooms)*;
• transfer to the starting point of the ascent;
• professional support team. All guides are certified Wilderness First Responder, Wilderness First Aid, climbing experience over 7 years. For each of the participants of the ascent, one porter is provided (can carry up to 15 kg);
• permits to visit the Kilimanjaro National Park for the period of the ascent;
• rescue services of the Kilimanjaro National Park;
• ecological fee of the National Park;
• three meals a day. The menu includes various soups, side dishes, several types of meat and fish, fresh fruits and vegetables, vegetarian food options are available at the request of customers;
• modern tents The North Face VE-25 (on all routes except Marangu). On Marangu accommodation in cabins**;
• warm and comfortable mattresses;
• oxygen systems and oximeters;
• first aid kit;
• group equipment (food tent, table, chairs, crockery and cutlery);
• meeting the group at the exit from the National Park and transfer to the hotel;
• accommodation in a hotel in Moshi after climbing (breakfast included, accommodation in double rooms);
• international ascent certificates;
• return transfer to Kilimanjaro airport.
  * The initial cost of the tour assumes double occupancy. If only single accommodation is suitable for you, you must contact the manager at least 2 weeks before the start date of the tour.
  ** During the ascent, 2-3 local accommodation in tents is provided, depending on the number of participants. If you need an individual tent, please inform the manager. In the houses on Marangu single accommodation is not possible.

The price does not include:

• international flight to Tanzania (Kilimanjaro airport);
• Visa fees;
• lunch and dinner at the hotel (before and after climbing);
• rental of personal equipment;
• tips for the escort team $200-250 per person at the end of the ascent;
• climbing insurance (ask the manager or arrange it yourself

At Kilimanjaro Airport (JRO), the participants of the ascent are met by a representative of APEX-mountain and the group goes to the hotel, where future climbers are waiting for clean rooms, friendly staff and quality service. In the evening of the same day, the staff will hold an introductory meeting and give a basic assessment of the preparation of the participants.

Day 2. Drive to Marangu Gate (1860m) and trek to Mandara Camp (2700m)

In the morning, a guide with a team arrives at the hotel to get to know all the participants and conduct a short briefing. Then the group goes in an organized manner to the Kilimanjaro National Park - to the gates of Marangu (1860 m). Before visiting the park, you must obtain a permit, as well as register with the rescue service. Accompanied by a guide, this procedure is very fast. After all the preparations are completed, the ascent to the Mandara camp (2700 m) begins.

The Marangu route runs through the real African tropics, where tourists can experience all the "charms" of the local climate, including tropical showers. So that humidity and rain do not overshadow the ascent of Kilimanjaro, it is worth taking a raincoat or poncho with you in addition to a change of clothes. At the climbers' camp there will be lunch and a warm welcome prepared by our team. All the way there are comfortable houses for spending the night - simple, but comfortable. This is a great alternative to campgrounds for those who are not ready to give up the "benefits of civilization".

Day 3. Trek from Mandara Camp (2700m) to Horombo Camp (3720m)

After an early breakfast at the Mandara camp (2700 m), the climbers go to the Horombo camp (3720 m). Trekking goes at a moderate pace, comfortable for all participants of the tour. There will be no technically difficult elements here, only endurance and discipline are required from the participants. Horombo camp overlooks 2 volcanoes - Mawenzi and Kibo. In Horombo, the climbers will be fed lunch, and after 2 hours there will be an ascent of 200-300 meters in the direction of the Barafu camp with a return descent to Horombo. This "manoeuvre" is necessary for acclimatization of the body to the altitude. Upon returning to the Horombo camp, the climbers will have a ready dinner.

Day 4. Trek from Horombo camp (3720 m) to Kibo assault camp (4700 m)

After breakfast, the participants of the tour will go to the Kibo camp (4700 m). The route is quite simple, but here you should keep a measured pace and control your breathing in order to save strength for climbing to the top of the volcano. Upon arrival at the camp, lunch will be prepared for the climbers. Useful advice: before climbing (preferably immediately after lunch), you need to get a good night's sleep, do not overload your muscles and gradually drink as much liquid as possible.

Day 5. Climbing Uhuru Peak (5895m) and descending to Horombo Camp (3720m)

At night, the ascent to the highest point of the Kilimanjaro volcano - Uhuru Peak (5895 m) begins. From the point of view of physical activity, the path to the top is relatively simple, the main difficulty lies in overcoming the symptoms of altitude sickness by the body. During the assault on the summit, each pair of climbers is accompanied by a guide who monitors the moral and physical condition of the tourists. Further, the participants of the ascent return to the Kibo camp (4700 m), where they will be given a two-hour rest, then the descent to the Horombo camp (3720 m) will continue.

Day 6. Descent from the Horombo camp (3720 m) to the Marangu gate (1860 m) and transfer to the hotel

After a hearty breakfast at Horombo camp (3720 m), the descent will follow the already familiar route through the Mandara camp (2700 m) to the Marangu gate (1860 m). At the gates, the climbers will be met by a team with congratulations and a volcano climbing journal, in which each participant of the event will be able to write their impressions of Kilimanjaro. After the solemn meeting, the ceremony of presenting certificates will take place, followed by a transfer to the hotel.

Day 7. Departure of the climbers

Rest at the hotel in Moshi after a successful climb and transfer to the airport throughout the day.

Day 1. Meeting of the climbers

Meeting of the group with a representative of APEX-mountain at Kilimanjaro Airport (JRO) and organized transfer to the hotel, where prepared rooms and friendly staff will be waiting for all climbers. On the evening of the first day, representatives of our company will hold an orientation meeting to give a basic assessment of the preparation of the participants and check that all necessary equipment and clothing are available.

Day 2. Drive to Machame Gate (1800m) and trek to Machame Camp (3010m)

Morning meeting with the guide and the escort team that will oversee the ascent of the participants to the summit. After acquaintance and general meeting, the participants of the event go to the Machame gate (1800 m), where they receive permission to visit the park and register with the rescue service. After all the documents are completed, the ascent to the Machame camp (3010 m) begins. The path runs through the tropics, where at any moment a heavy downpour can begin. So that the vagaries of the climate do not spoil the trip, it is worth taking a waterproof poncho or raincoat with you, in addition to the obligatory change of clothes.

Day 3. Trek from Machame camp (3010 m) to Shira 2 camp (3845 m)

After a hearty breakfast, the transition to the Shira 2 camp (3845 m) begins. On the same day, the group leaves the tropical thickets, and here for the first time a view of the Shira plateau opens up. From a technical point of view, this is a fairly simple climb, but the change in altitude is significantly felt by the body. So that this does not cause discomfort, it is necessary to listen to the reactions of the body and adhere to the correct pace of ascent. In the Shira 2 tent camp (3845 m) the climbers will be able to have lunch and recuperate for a short acclimatization trip towards the Lava Tower camp. This is a local transition of 300 m up and back - a necessary measure to prepare the body for further ascent to a greater height. Upon returning to the camp, the participants of the event will be served a dinner prepared by the expedition chef.

Day 4. Trek from Shira 2 camp (3845 m) to Barranco camp (3960 m)

In the morning, the transition to Lava Tower (4630 m), the highest point on today's route, begins. The terrain is not very difficult, but there are many descents and ascents, which require endurance to overcome. The first stop will take place at an altitude of 4600 meters, where the climbers will be provided with lunch and a short rest. Staying at this altitude will help the body cope with the load and adapt well to the altitude. The next part of the path is the descent to the Barranco camp (3960 m), from where you can see the Barranco wall, striking in its majesty.

Day 5. Trek from the Barranco camp (3960 m) to the Barafu assault camp (4640 m)

After an early breakfast, the ascent to the Barranco Wall begins. From a technical point of view, the rocky sections of the wall are not particularly difficult because of the path hidden among the stones, the entire transition takes no more than an hour. After climbing the wall, climbers can relax a little and take a selfie with Kibo in the background - the views here are quite picturesque.

The next section of the route leading to the Karanga camp (4035 m) is a little more difficult in terms of physical activity - there are no serious obstacles, but there are long climbs. To reach the Karanga camp in good health, it is necessary to maintain the correct pace of movement (the guide will help with this). In the camp itself, tourists will have lunch and a short break, after which the ascent to the Barafu assault camp (4640 m) will begin. Here it is especially important to maintain a measured pace and save energy so as not to overwork before climbing Uhuru Peak. Upon arrival at the camp, the participants of the event will be waiting for a ready dinner.

Day 6. Climbing Uhuru Peak (5895m) and descending to Millennium Camp (3820m)

Final stage: exit from the Barafu camp (4640 m) and the beginning of the ascent to the top of the volcano - Uhuru Peak (5895 m). Physically, the path to the top is relatively easy, but the main difficulty of this ascent lies in the height, which affects your body and significantly slows down the speed of movement. Throughout the summit storm, each pair of climbers is accompanied by a guide who monitors the moral and physical condition of the tourists. After reaching Uhuru peak, the whole group can go down to the glacier - the distance to it is insignificant, and the view is simply amazing. Then the participants will return to the Barafu camp and have a short rest, after which they will continue the descent to the Millennium camp (3820 m).

Day 7 Trek from Millennium Camp (3820m) to Mweka Gate (1680m)

In the morning, Kilimanjaro climbers will be offered a hot breakfast, after which the descent to the Mweka Gate (1680 m) will begin. At the gates of the climbers, a warm meeting with congratulations and a ceremony of presenting certificates awaits, followed by a transfer to the hotel.

Rest at the hotel in the city of Moshi after a tiring climb and transfer to the airport at any convenient time throughout the day.

Day 1. Meeting of the climbers

At Kilimanjaro Airport (JRO), which is located in close proximity to the city of Moshi, the climbers are met by a representative of APEX-mountain and the group goes to the hotel, where future climbers are waiting for comfortable rooms, friendly staff and quality service. In the evening of the same day, the staff will hold an introductory meeting and give a basic assessment of the preparation of the participants.

Day 2. Drive to Rongai gate (2020m) and trek to Simba camp (2625m)

Early in the morning, the escort team comes for the participants, which conducts briefing and inspection of the necessary clothing and equipment for the ascent. Then the group goes to the northern entrance to the Kilimanjaro National Park - Rongai Gate (2020 m). Here, all participants receive permission to visit the park, and also register with the rescue service. After solving all organizational issues, the group begins the transition to the Simba camp (2625 m). The route runs along the northern slope of the volcano through a coniferous forest. The transition itself is not very difficult, you just need to choose the right pace of movement, take your time and control your breathing. At the pre-arranged Simba tent camp, participants will have a ready-made lunch.

Day 3. Trek from the Simba camp (2625 m) to the Kikelev camp (3630 m)

After spending the night and breakfast at the Simba camp (2625 m), the participants of the event move to the next camp - Kikeleva (3630 m), from where a view of the dormant Kibo volcano will open. This section of the path is physically a little more difficult than the previous one, so you need to have a good rest the day before in order to restore strength and prepare the body for increased stress.

Day 4. Trek from Kikelev camp (3630 m) to Mawenzi Tarn camp (4310 m)

After a light breakfast, the climb begins to the Mawenzi Tarn camp (4310 m), located at the foot of the Mawenzi volcano, which is considered the third highest peak in Africa. In the camp, tourists are waiting for a hot lunch with a short rest, after which the group will climb 200-300 meters towards the top of the Mawenzi volcano and descend back. This transition is necessary for the successful acclimatization of the body to the altitude. Upon their return, tourists will be served a hot dinner.

Day 5. Trek from Mawenzi camp (4310 m) to Kibo camp (4700 m)

On this day, the transition to the Kibo assault camp (4700 m) begins, from which the group will go to the top of the volcano at night. When moving to the camp, the landscape will gradually change to a rocky desert area without any bright flora. The path will be quite simple and measured, if you keep a moderate pace and watch your breathing, it will also help you save more energy for tomorrow's summit assault.

Day 6. Climbing Uhuru Peak (5895m) and descending to Horombo Camp (3720m)

Night exit of the group to storm the highest point of the Kilimanjaro volcano - Uhuru Peak (5895m). Climbing to the top may seem exhausting and physically demanding, but it is believed that this ascent is within the power of any physically healthy person. The main difficulty of the ascent is to overcome the symptoms of altitude sickness, which will manifest itself to varying degrees in all climbers. Throughout this section of the path, for each group of two participants, a personal guide is assigned, who will control the moral and physical condition of the climbers. After climbing to the top, the group will descend to Horombo camp (3720 m) with a short rest stop at Kibo camp (4700 m).

Day 7 Trekking from Horombo Camp (3720m) to Marangu Gate (1860m)

At Horombo Camp (3720m) the participants have breakfast and continue their descent to the Marangu Park Gate (1860m) via Mandara Camp (2700m). At the gates of the park, the participants will be met by the entire escort team to congratulate them on a successful ascent and present commemorative certificates. After that, tired but joyful climbers are taken to the hotel.

Day 8. Departure of climbers

At any convenient time throughout the day, we organize a transfer to the airport. If you have an evening flight, then in the morning you can walk around the city of Moshi and enjoy local cuisine.

Day 1. Meeting of the climbers

Meeting of the participants of the ascent with a representative of APEX-mountain at the airport of the same name nearest to the Kilimanjaro volcano. After that, the group goes to the hotel, where the participants will be welcomed by spacious double rooms and friendly staff. In the evening, representatives of our company will organize a meeting where they will hold a brief briefing and inspect the climbing equipment of the participants.

Day 2. Transfer to Lemosho clearing (2390 m) and trek to Mkumbwa camp (2790 m)

In the morning, a guide arrives at the hotel along with an escort team that will follow the climbers all the way to the top of the volcano. After the acquaintance and the general organizational meeting, the group will have a three-hour drive to the starting point of the ascent - the gates of Londorossi (2200 m). At the gate, participants receive climbing permits and various permits to visit Kilimanjaro National Park, as well as registering with the local rescue service. After all documents are processed, the transition to the first Mkumbwa camp (2790 m) begins. On this stretch of the path, it will not be superfluous to have a raincoat or a membrane jacket, as the path passes through dense tropical forests, where prolonged rain can begin almost at any time.

Day 3 Trek from Mkumbwa Camp (2790m) to Shira 1 Camp (3505m)

After a nutritious breakfast, the ascent to the Shira 1 camp (3505 m) begins. On the same day, the group leaves the tropical thickets, and here for the first time a view of the Shira plateau opens up. Despite the fact that this transition is technically not difficult, changes in altitude begin to be felt, so we recommend that you listen to your body and immediately inform the guide of any ailments. At the Shira 1 camp (3505 m) climbers will have a hot lunch and a long-awaited rest.

Day 4. Trek from Shira 1 camp (3505 m) to Shira 2 camp (3845 m)

After breakfast, the group goes to the next camp on the way to the summit - Shira 2 (3845 m). Today's transition is one of the easiest for the entire climbing program. During lunch, from the Shira 2 camp, an amazing panorama of the fifth peak of Africa, Mount Meru (4565 m), will open. Having gained strength, the group will go to the acclimatization exit to the Lava Tower and overcome about 200 meters vertically, after which they will descend back to the camp, where they will have to wait for a hot dinner prepared by the expedition chef.

Day 5 Trek from Shira 2 Camp (3845m) to Barranco Camp (3960m)

After breakfast in the early morning, the group starts the hike to the famous rock of volcanic formations - Lava Tower (4630 m), which will be the highest point of the day. After reaching the lava tower, the group will stop for lunch and rest. For the best acclimatization of the body, the group needs to stay at this altitude as long as possible, since after that the participants descend to the Barranco camp (3960 m). The camp offers a view of the Barranco wall, along which the group will make tomorrow's climb.

Day 6. Trek from Barranco camp (3960 m) to Karanga camp (4035 m)

After breakfast, the group goes to the Barranco wall. Climbing the rock ledges on the wall will be quite difficult, which is why most climbers use a barely visible path leading up. Climbing the wall, the participants will have a short rest overlooking the youngest volcano in the Kilimanjaro mountain system - Kibo, after which the group will start traversing towards the next overnight camp Karanga (4035 m). Upon reaching the camp, the participants will be offered a hot lunch and rest after a busy day. In the afternoon, for the best acclimatization of the body, an exit will be made towards the Barafu assault camp, upon returning from which, the participants will have dinner from the expedition cook.

Day 7. Trek from Karanga camp (4035 m) to Barafu assault camp (4640 m)

After breakfast, the group will go to the Barafu assault camp (4640), from which the ascent to the highest point of the Kilimanjaro volcano - Uhuru Peak (5895 m) will begin. In physical terms, today is quite simple and is more designed for rest before the most important day. After reaching the Barafu camp and lunch, the participants will make the final acclimatization hike to the Kosovo camp (4800 m). After descending back to the Barafu camp, the participants will be offered a hot dinner. On this day, you need to go to bed early to try to get enough sleep by night, since it is at night that the ascent begins.

Day 8. Climbing Uhuru Peak (5895m) and descending to Millennium Camp (3820m)

At night, the participants, together with the guides, storm the highest point of the Kilimanjaro volcano - Uhuru Peak (5895 m). For two participants of the ascent, 1 guide is allocated, who will monitor the condition of the climbers throughout the ascent. In case of emergencies and the development of symptoms of altitude sickness, the group guide will be able to promptly provide medical assistance and help the victim descend to the nearest camp. After reaching the summit, participants will be invited to walk to the Kilimanjaro glacier, which, according to some forecasts, may disappear forever by 2020. Having admired the views enough, the group begins a gradual descent to the Millennium Camp (3820 m) through the already well-known Barafu camp, where the participants will have a hot lunch and a short rest.

Day 9 Trek from Millennium Camp (3820m) to Mweka Gate (1680m)

After resting and gaining strength after a tiring ascent, the group has breakfast and goes to the Mweka gate (1650 m) to meet with the event escort team to receive commemorative certificates for climbing the highest point in Africa. After a small official part on a rented transport, the group returns to the hotel in the city of Moshi.

Day 10. Departure of climbers

The final day of the event and the departure of the participants to the Kilimanjaro International Airport. Regardless of the time of the flight, an employee of our company will arrange for you a transfer from the hotel to the airport. In the case of a late evening flight, you can relax on site all day or walk around the city without checking out your room until you leave.

Yesterday I had a guest named Dima, who usually prefers to hide behind the party nickname Skeeve. He had just returned from a month-long trip through Kenya-Tanzania, the highlight of which was climbing Kili at no cost whatsoever.

Let me explain for the uninformed. Kilimanjaro, along with the national Serengeti and Ngorongoro parks - perhaps the main source of income for Tanzania. To climb the highest point in Africa, you need to pay at least $ 700. This includes a fee for staying in the park itself, the payment of the MANDATORY guide, the MANDATORY assistant guide, porters, water, food and all the tops.

Without guides and relevant papers to the territory of the nat. Kilimanjaro Park won't let you in. And if they find it on the mountain itself, they will arrest it. This happened, for example, in 2000 with WUAs, who were caught already on the descent and imprisoned (however, the consulate pulled them out).

But Dima is a desperate person, as I was convinced in 2004, when the two of us covered 60 km in 2 days through the jungles of Malaysia with an inspection of the nesting bats, attempts to catch up with the king cobra and removing poisonous spiders from the place of spending the night manually. .. In short, he climbed Kili himself.

It took him three days to go around Kili (usually everyone climbs on it from the southern slope, starting from the town of Moshi) on local tarantasses, to get acquainted with the life of local tribes and get close to the mountain (of course, he told everyone that he was going " photograph the forest).

It turned out that no one was guarding the mountain from the northern slope. MORE THAN - there are about five kilometers to the border with Kenya, where there are also no border guards. Bearing in mind that neither in Kenya nor in Tanzania do they ever check passports (only upon arrest :)) - this is a way to save money if you just want to go back and forth from Kenya.

Hiding his backpack in the forest, Dima started climbing. He was equipped, frankly, so-so. To lighten the weight, he did not have a tent, especially warm clothes. Food - at a minimum (ate - once a day), water - 1 bottle !!!

He didn't have a map either - just a compass and a lot of enthusiasm.

Took five days. Of which I made two overnight stays in the forest, two - in the savannah (according to the altitudinal zone, I think everyone knows) and one - directly on the top.

He slept on the ground, spreading a raincoat under the sleeping bag (did not take foam). There are no mosquitoes on Kili, all sorts of ants did not bother.

The water quickly ran out - he drank the water that he found. That is, for the most part, from animal watering holes - he says, he poured water from a mug into a mug for a long time, filtering all small living creatures (this is not for you to drink tap water in India :)). Closer to the top - drowned water from glaciers - slightly poisoned, because. it was filled with grey.

I followed the compass, in the forest I was guided by the bed of the stream. In the thicket of the forest and the wilds of woodlands, I tried to look for elephant paths - it’s easier to walk along them.

On the 5th, a light mountain started, but overcame it.

I got to the top in the afternoon - this season fog hangs from noon, so there is already guaranteed no one on the top. I also spent the night there. At the overnight stay, I slightly frostbitten my toes - there were only boots and woolen socks over the usual ones. Other warm equipment - thermal underwear at -15 and a light snowboarder's jacket.

He descended for two days, but the fog strongly deviated from the course and went out at a completely different place where he spent the night. Two more days then wandered around the savannah - looking for a backpack.

There were many traces in the savannah, incl. and predators. I saw the remnants of their feasts, but I didn’t stumble upon them myself (otherwise I wouldn’t be sitting in my kitchen), I only frightened the elephant once.

The turning point came when Dimka burped, exhausted, somewhere in the middle of the savannah and saw how a vulture sat on a stone next to him and stared expectantly at the man. I had to get up and stand...

Finding, in the end, a backpack, Dimka returned to the same village, from where he started the ascent. He was not there for 9 days.

Now it remains only to kick comrade Skeeve so that he writes a detailed account of his ascent and other adventures in East Africa. Finally, I also printed my own films - more than 40 pieces. But he has a professional SLR with a pair of interchangeable lenses.

P.S. And a couple more necessary facts about Kenya, Tanzania.

Visa to Kenya - at the airport. 20 - week transit, 50 - month. According to Dima's assurances, ONLY transit should be taken, because at the exit the border guards do not look at the visa at all.

Visa to Tanzania - $ 50 - a cartoon for 3 months, so you can easily travel around all sorts of neighboring Burundi-Rwanda-Uganda ..

Safari - the tour costs an average of $ 70 per day (or more). He took a seven-day safari - three days in Kenya (Masai Mara and a couple of parks) and four in Tanzania (Serengeti, Ngorongoro). Everything cost $500.

P.P.S. He also showed a bunch of pictures from the trip to the UEFA Cup final - Lisbon is still an amazing city...

6

Of course, everyone’s motivation is different: someone just goes to the mountains and for him this is a logical development of his hobby, someone is tired of relaxing on an all-inclusive system and decided to test himself for strength, and someone, in particular, I read a lot children's fairy tales and got it into his head that he should stand on top of the black continent among the eternal snows of Kilimanjaro, and follow his dream.

Kili at first glance may seem like a "kindergarten". Cats are not needed, insurance is not needed, there are no avalanches - yes, this is a pleasure walk in the mountains - lightness. You think so - you have already lost. Kili is very insidious. Classic route to the top Uhuru peak Kibo volcano (5895 m) takes 5 days. In other words, in 5 days you will gain almost 6000 meters. For comparison, the summer ascent of Elbrus, although it is irrespectively more difficult in terms of weather conditions and technically, takes 6 days (with good weather and entry on the first try), despite the fact that the top of Europe is 5642 meters, which is 253 meters below. Believe me, in the mountains, these 250 meters are very significant. What does it mean? - you have 24-48 hours less to acclimatize to the altitude on Kili. Why this is so important, I will tell you a little later, when the group reaches 3700 m.

So here is the itinerary for the day. Below is a description of each with all its complexities, specific moments.

DAY 2: Mandara Hut 2720 m - Horombo Hut 3720 m (evelation 1000 m)

DAY 3: Horombo Hut 3720 m - Zebra Rocks 4120 m ↓ Horombo Hut 3720 m (↓ 400 m - 0 elevation)

DAY 4: Horombo Hut 3720 m - Kibo Hut 4720 m (evelation 1000 m)

DAY 5: Kibo Hut 4720 m - Gilman's Point 5681 m - Uhuru Peak 5895 m ⊕ (elevation 1175 m) - ↓Gilman's Point 5681 m - ↓ Kibo Hut 4720 - ↓ Horombo Hut 3720 m

DAY 6: Horombo Hut 3720 m ↓- Mandara Hut 2720 m ↓- Marangu Gate 1879 ⊕

The first day.

⊕ Marangu Gate 1879 m - Mandara Hut 2720 m (elvation 841 m+)

Around 6:00 you wake up in your cozy hotel where you stayed after arriving at Kilimanjaro airport. Usually it is in the cities of Moshi or Arusha. Early breakfast, packing of backpacks, departure to the gate.

(photo taken from eBay)

I strongly recommend that you take several sealed plastic bags from home and pack all the documents that you will have on hand: passport, yellow fever vaccination certificate, driver's license, tickets ... and carry it with you in an assault backpack in the most inaccessible pocket ( usually this is located on the back wall from above), the second one is perfect for the phone.

This is where the first nuance comes in. As you remember from the previous article about equipment, you have 2 backpacks: main and assault (you carry it).

Separate things immediately, even before boarding the bus. Think about what you will need on the first day. Your assault backpack rides with you, and the main one is on the roof of the bus. When you arrive at the start of the track, the porters will take their backpacks off the roof and literally run upstairs with them to the next camp.

The opinion that a porter goes along at your pace and that any thing is in free constant access is one of the most serious misconceptions. If you didn't put your raincoat on, you'll get wet, if you forgot your snack, sunblock... whatever, you can get it only at the end of the day at the next camp after 6-8 hours of walking.

On the first day, I was wearing a T-shirt, trekking pants, sports sandals, a baseball cap. In the backpack are trekking poles, 1 liter of water, a snack, a first aid kit (a band-aid, atoxil, an iodine pencil, tablets from the head and stomach, an elastic bandage), goggles, a raincoat, a pair of socks in case of a leg injury to isolate it from dirt or just if rub sandals. Personally, I additionally carry a small bag on my belt. I throw a fotik, phone, headphones, hygienic lipstick, napkins and something to chew on it.

7

We left at about 2:00 pm from Marangu Gate. I want to draw attention to the fact that the bus brings you to a height of 1879 meters in a matter of hours, so you need to understand that the climb on the first day is much more than 841 meters. At this altitude, no unpleasant sensations arise, but this, of course, has an effect on the general acclimatization of the body in the following days.

The first day is solid jungle. In general, I must say that the landscapes are absolutely breathtaking along the entire route. Everything is very picturesque: the red earth - just crimson - is a feature of these places. Lianas, ficuses… an endless number of outlandish plants, everything blooms, the aroma of preli and dampness of an impenetrable forest. Mountain streams, waterfalls rustle around, birds sing ...

Then it started to rain. Quite warm and small, but given that it is a long walk, it is better to dress right away. The raincoat floats, so at this altitude and in this temperature (low and warm), I roll up my sleeves and roll up my trousers to hide everything under my raincoat. Looks ridiculously incredible: a group of people-cases.

The track on the first day is simple and short. So it seems now that you know the whole route. Objectively: it is certainly not complicated, but torn. There is a minimum rise all the time, there are no flat areas, periodically you need to climb a cascade of stones, like a staircase in which all the steps are of different sizes. I especially did not like this segment on the descent. If you do not prepare in advance, then on the first day you can be quite exhausted from the habit. We left late so ended the day at dusk.

2

Mandara Hut 2720 m what is a camp? – Tiny houses for 4 people are double-sided. Speak carefully - you can hear everything behind the wall. They have a semblance of a two-story bed - three on the first floor (actually on the floor) with the letter "p", the fourth on the second. Separate toilet for boys and girls and showers. There is no hot water or electricity - that would be too much. In the evening we actively use a flashlight - a night in the mountains is not a night in the city - here it finally becomes clear what black-black is and how the stars actually burn ... In the center of the meadow there is a reception where everyone who comes to the camp must sign and a dining room.

The food is quite monotonous, but nutritious and in some respects even tasty: in the morning porridge, scrambled eggs, toast, pancakes with jam and sausages; for dinner: chatter soup, rice with chicken or vegetables, pancakes, fruit; tea, coffee, cocoa.

You can sit in the dining room as long as you like, watch movies from a laptop, drink tea, play board games - whoever is willing. But basically everyone just gets to know each other and share their impressions and stories about who has what hurts. I remember that already here some people had the first signs of malaise - mountain sickness: dizziness, nausea, drowsiness and lack of appetite. Fortunately, by morning most of us had acclimatized and joyfully stepped forward, more precisely forward and up.

Second day.

Mandara Hut 2720 m - Horombo Hut 3720 m (evelation 1000 m)

We got up early and were very happy with the weather. The sun was shining and we even sunbathed while sitting on the steps of the terrace during breakfast. It was already cool for sandals, and I decided to change into boots (if these are your first or just new boots, break them in a week at home, just walking around the city).

6

I am wearing a T-shirt, trekking trousers, trekking boots, light trekking socks (socks must protrude above the boots, otherwise the upper edge of the boots will rub your leg hard), baseball cap, glasses, windbreaker (membrane jacket from rain and wind), sticks in my hands. In the backpack there is a fleece, 1 liter tea, a snack, a first aid kit, a raincoat, a lunchbox.

We christened this day Tin Day. Of course, it cannot be compared in terms of “magnificent” sensations with the night of the assault, but we got pleasure from the sea: the sea, because we were not ready - it was a real mountain “surprise”, and the sea, because I probably never felt so wet! An hour after leaving the camp, it began to drizzle, visibility dropped sharply and we stopped to change clothes. At first it was even funny - it was not fog - the group sort of went into the clouds, and I fantasized that we were walking in the sky. But the clouds at this altitude are mostly rain, and if there are any, it will most likely rain.

And the rain came. We climbed, the sun's rays did not break through the clouds at all, the gusts of wind became sharper, the rain intensified, and the temperature dropped. Soon the roads turned into mountain rivers and we were already walking, groping for a smaller place with a stick. Is it necessary to say that such conditions greatly slowed down all of us? And I regretted it when I asked our leading African guide how much longer we had to go. To hear in response “at such a pace of 6-7 hours” was simply deadly ...

We continued to walk ... The first to get wet was the face - it just flowed down - and the hands ... gradually the water rolling down the raincoat wet the trousers below the knee and began to flow into the sleeves from the tassels ... All this could still be endured ... From the trousers, the water passed to the shoes, but they still held on, but the socks - alas, no. And slowly but surely, the socks absorbed water, gradually carrying it into the middle ... In 15 minutes of rain, the water completely seeped into the shoes. There were 5 hours to the camp. “Slurp-slurp… squelch-slurp” – each step set the water in the boots in motion, and at some point I saw that the water had already completely soaked the shoes and began to pour out a little bit… When the rain became finer, we stopped , I poured water out of my shoes, twisted my socks and insoles, admired the blue-white color of my skin wrinkled from water and continued to walk. In fact, this was the only serious mistake: I had membrane water-repellent trousers - in the main backpack ...

The group has stretched out a lot. The guys were simply exhausted from the loss of energy, the cold, everyone really wanted to eat, but it was impossible to stop and dine in the rain. Many began to attack mountain sickness: shortness of breath, vomiting, severe dizziness and a heart trying to jump out of the chest. I was just very wet. I saved myself with chocolate bars and still warm tea, and with all my strength I continued to rush up the mountain - rather, rather, into warmth, under the roof, to dry clothes and hot soup.

We were the first to enter the Horombo Hut 3720 m camp.

Horombo Hut 3720 m is actually a base and acclimatization camp. This is where the most important adaptation to altitude takes place. We will spend two nights here: today and tomorrow after a radial acclimatization hike to the Zebra Rocks 400 meters up and one more night on the way back after the summit. But about everything in order.

When we finally got to the shelter and the porters brought us our things, the second shock came: our backpacks, like us, were completely wet along with all the contents. Some of them even got their sleeping bags wet. With all our might, we joked and tried to cheer each other up, but to be honest, there was no understanding of what to do now. So the challenge: You are completely wet. You have a backpack of change items, but it is also completely wet. Indoors + 10-15C. Heating, electricity, fire, hot water are not available. It continues to rain outside. The room is so humid that things not only do not dry, but also dry things gain moisture. In a day you will go to the sub-zero temperature zone, where wet things are death. Question: What to do and how to dry things?

Everyone is lucky in different ways. My sleeping bag was in a hermetic bag and remained untouched by moisture, thanks to which all things under it remained almost dry: sneakers, thermal underwear and socks. And also the things that I myself carried in the assault backpack (including the fleece) remained dry. But the problem still remained: I had a partially wet puff and completely wet boots. I sincerely hope that my story will give you the opportunity to avoid such a situation, but if it does happen, I will try to tell you what is really worth doing, what will help and what will not.

2

DEFINITELY HELP:

• Put on everything dry. Get warm. Eat. Restore your strength.
• Hang wet things to drain from them: a raincoat, a windbreaker, trousers.
• Determine what you need most from what gets wet. These things need to be unscrewed, blotted with a towel, shaken well, etc.
• Put these things on, one wet at a time. On top of a dry warm thing and walk - sit - sleep in it until it dries completely. Retry the operation.
• Turn the shoes over and place them at an angle so that the heel is down (if you put them on the toe, then the water will have nowhere to go), pull out and unscrew the laces, insoles.
• You need to put newspaper, toilet paper, a dry T-shirt, a towel (something needs to be sacrificed) in your boots to draw moisture.
• If you pour boiling water into a flask or bottle, you can put it in a shoe - it works.
• I dried my shoes for several hours with newspapers, toilet paper and hot bottles, then put the shoes on, put a chemical heating pad in the sock (to warm my feet, not dry my shoes) and just walked around in them. The result: absolute superiority in drying shoes.

DEFINITELY WILL NOT HELP:

• If you have chemical heating pads and you put them in a wet boot, then you will waste them - this is proven and it does not work.
• If you hang things indoors / on the veranda / in the dining room on a bench and hope.
• If you give clothes or shoes to porters, thinking that they will dry them “on their radiator”, “on their stove”, “in a washing machine” ... they don’t have any of this, including firewood - they cook food on a gas burner .

In the morning we were lucky and the sun came out for an hour, which completed our work. Thus, in a day I dried my puff, my friend's puff, 2 T-shirts, socks and boots.

Dawn 3720 m
3720 m

This camp was different. Firstly, it is incredibly beautiful here, though we could only enjoy the views and see Kili for the first time the next morning. I remember waking up around 5:00 in the morning and wandering to the toilet with a toothbrush and a towel at the ready, and then I realized that I had been standing in a daze for 40 minutes, enjoying the scenery, and I was glad that I was seeing this first, because everyone is still sleeping. Secondly, the camp is much larger than the first one and there are really a lot of people here. Thirdly, it is already quite cold here - at night it can easily be around + 0C, and the water in the sink is caught in a light crust. Here, as elsewhere, there are separate toilets, showers with ice water (very clean and decent), light lighting in the cabins and the dining room on solar panels, lack of electricity, hot water and communication (it is in one place - on a stone on the edge of a cliff, if someone needs it - I'll tell you where). We all (16 people) slept in the same room - under the roof over the dining room. I remember when we first came in, mountain mice were running across the floor in the dining room, a bit similar in color to chipmunks. Then we saw them again in our room and squealed as expected. We were warned that mice could easily get into a backpack by making a hole in it if they smelled food. Some time passed and already lying at night in a sleeping bag in half-wet clothes, I saw a couple of mice in the moonlight and thought: “There the mouse ran. She's probably hot. I wish she ran into my sleeping bag, warmed her legs, ”this is how a reassessment of values ​​\u200b\u200boccurred.

Day three.

Horombo Hut 3720 m - Zebra Rocks 4120 m ↓ Horombo Hut 3720 m (↓ 400 m - 0 elevation)

During the night, much became clear: it was not a pleasure walk in the mountains. The kids got really sick. There were those who had a pulse in their sleep reached 150 beats per minute, and the oxygen level dropped to 50-55%. Today we don't go higher, we climb 400 meters and go down to the camp again. We sleep, we eat, we rest.

By the time we left, the weather began to deteriorate again. I left everything most important, dried with such difficulty in a shelter, and went to the Zebra rocks light. In the backpack only tea, a chocolate bar and a raincoat. And it was perfectly wise. After 30 minutes it began to rain and yesterday's story repeated itself. We put on raincoats, quickly reached the goal and hid under the rocks. It was a pleasant exit, because the rocks were amazingly picturesque, and the path was unusually short - we had fun, joked and even wanted to go out here a second time in the evening if the rain stopped.

Of course, no one went anywhere in the evening. The coming two days promised to be very difficult and we decided to accumulate strength. I made myself tea and went to admire the scenery. Immediately I met guys from other groups: someone else was just climbing up the mountain and waiting for acclimatization, someone, on the contrary, went down from the top and told exciting stories about how ... We were not lucky with the weather in general, it rained in this There is usually no season, and there shouldn't be. The rain was followed by a stronger cyclone and Kili had been shrouded in clouds for days already, the temperature had dropped below normal, a strong wind was blowing above and a snowstorm was blowing ... I looked at the faces of the Dutch and Danes beaten by frost and ice crumbs and realized that none of us ready for this.

5

When it got dark, we gathered in the dining room for an evening cocoa. And then it thundered ... A thunderstorm gathered over Africa. Have you ever seen thunderclouds from a height of four thousand meters?

Day four.

Horombo Hut 3720 m - Kibo Hut 4720 m (evelation 1000 m)

The most difficult day of the campaign began. When you read the climbing schedule without having similar experience in the past, you do not quite understand that day 4 and day 5 are actually one long day. Today we left at 8:00, by lunchtime - closer to 15:00 we will be at the assault camp Kibo Hut 4720 m. After lunch, we will take a short walk, drink tea overlooking the magnificent Mawenzi Peak and go to bed around 19:00. And at 23:30 rise to start the summit assault at 00:00. By dawn - around 9:00 we will reach Gilman Peak, in another 3 hours closer to 12:00 - Uhuru Peak - the peak of Africa. And then the descent, but not to the assault camp, but to the acclimatization camp - at 3720 m in Horombo Hut.

And now in order. We set off early in the morning to the assault camp. To be honest, this is the longest, but the most beautiful and gentle transition. Those who adapt easily will enjoy all 6-7 hours of the track. 3700-4700 m are already serious figures and here even the most insignificant symptoms should not be underestimated. Basically, the guys suffered precisely from mountain sickness, which takes all the strength: the body does not absorb oxygen well, which means the heart suffers - it beats 2 times faster to saturate the cells with oxygen, the muscles of the whole body suffer and do not allow you to reveal all your physical capabilities. Often a headache, nausea.

Professionals say that in fact it is impossible to prepare for the mountains in advance. Mountain sickness is a very individual thing. You can be an athlete with well-developed lungs and just sit down at 5000m and demand an evacuation. But this does not mean that there is no need to prepare, preparation is definitely needed. If you start in a month and a half and walk and run every day for 3-5 km, it will help a lot. Swimming is good for developing the lungs. I additionally completely gave up cigarettes (yes, alas, I smoke) for a month and a half and alcohol for a month.

To go to the assault camp, we all warmed up well. I am wearing thermal underwear, fleece, buff, storm membrane jacket, trekking boots (already 95% dry) light socks, storm membrane trousers, hat, glasses. In the hands are sticks. In the backpack: gloves, puff, thermos, first aid kit, sunblock 50+, hygienic lipstick, snack, lunchbox, fotik.

7

The landscapes in these places are completely unearthly and what struck me is that there are no sounds at all - only the wind sometimes rustles the jacket. Mars. At least that's how I imagined him after the movie "The Martian". We rounded Mawenzi Peak and headed for the camp. Mountains are tricky things. Do you think the camp is close? - keep walking, you don't need to know that it's still 4 hours away. Believe me, this is redundant information. For me it was the best day ever. Everything was according to plan. This is trekking in its purest form, as it should be: there is a climb, but there is also a flat walk, stunning views, good company, interesting conversation, perfect weather.

4

4

Kibo Hut 4720 m - Gilman's Point 5681 m - Uhuru Peak 5895 m ⊕ (elevation 1175 m) - ↓ Gilman's Point 5681 m - ↓ Kibo Hut 4720 - ↓ Horombo Hut 3720 m

Everyone quickly got up. It seems to me that the majority never closed their eyes. They made us a light breakfast. I didn’t want to eat, so I just poured a few glasses of sweet tea with Snickers into myself and took another thermos with me.

Put on everything. If you happen to take more than you need, put that on as well. We all agreed that a comfortable minimum is: thermal underwear, warm fleece, a buff, and preferably a balaclava, a puff with a hood, a membrane storm jacket and trousers, gloves, they must have heating pads, a hat, glasses, two pairs of socks, warmer insoles between them, boots.

In the hands of a stick, on the forehead - a flashlight. Only the minimum in a backpack! First aid kit, tea (water will freeze), additional heating pads, raincoat, snack, fotik. Theoretically, you can wear an additional down vest, and fleece pants under the trousers.

The exit to the assault is always at night. Local guides say that this is so that you do not see where to go. “Any normal person will refuse, and even we,” the guys say. “Disma, how many times have you been at the top?” - "O! I stopped counting after the hundredth." And this is partly true. I think more than half of them, seeing this slope of 45°, and closer to the final 60°, would have turned down. But in fact, such an early exit on all the mountains from Kili to Everest. You need not only to have time to go to the top, but also to go down. And the descent is just the most dangerous part of the path. Not the most difficult, but the most dangerous. You are tired, your legs do not go, you were happy at the top and lost your vigilance, damn gravity pulls you down and you will not notice how in one second your foot will slip off the ledge or you will be carried along the gravel path to the cliff.

We were traversing. Like donkeys walking in a row in the mountains. Turn, turn again. It was getting cold. I tried to think about breathing and keep up the pace, but the guys got sick and we stopped again and again. I remember how a girl from our group just passed out and fell asleep on the rocks. At this time, we have already entered the sub-zero temperature zone. While you're walking, it's warm. Stopping even for 3 minutes results in complete cooling. organism. Everything has to be restarted. If you can go, don't stop, go. Around 5300 m, I also felt the symptoms of the ill-fated miner. I started to feel nauseous. It felt like the internal organs would just pop out. But, looking at the comrades walking nearby, I realized that my nausea was just baby talk. In one, black circles, either from pulmonary or heart failure, ceased to be circles under the eyes and occupied the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entire face, for the other, the heart simply flew out of the chest and beat under 200 even during stops ... I continued to feel nauseous. "Disma, I'm terribly sick, what should I do?" I asked the guide. "Be sick? Is that all?” “Yes…” “So throw it out!”, “Disma, but I didn’t eat anything for breakfast!”, “Well, eat it !!!,” he said firmly and went to cheer up the guys who were really ill.

I want to give one useful advice to those who dare and go to the top of Kili. If you go this route - Marangu Rout - then you will storm Uhuru Peak from the same camp as we did. BUT, and this is important. Raising your head up you will see Gilmans Point, another 200 meters (vertically) to Uhuru Peak, and this is a 2-3 hour walk. It's damn important and no one talks about it! Know this, save your strength and move on. Keep this in mind all along the way.

Sunrise over Mawenzi Peak

Kenya on the left, Tanzania on the right

Probably the story of what each of us experienced, climbing to the top, can take up a separate small book, but I would not want to reveal all the cards to the reader. Did I want to turn around? Did I cry? Did I feel sorry for myself? Yes. Yes. Yes. But let it be a surprise for everyone. When we went down, Vitya - a great guy with whom we met in the mountains and became very friends, asked me what was the coolest moment on the trip. And I remembered. We were standing 20 meters from Gilman's Point. We were the first group and began to take a breath and enjoy the dawn. Then our guide Disma offered us to take a picture. “Guys, get tighter, what are you doing? Rejoice!” he said. But no one could. I remember this moment. Everyone felt very bad. And me. And then I thought, “Oh no! Nothing! Victory!” and raised her hand. It was the coolest moment. The strongest and most real.

A few days later, when I came to my senses, I wrote a post on Facebook about that moment. I'd rather not say. So I'll just quote:

"Why are you doing it?
I've been hearing this question over and over in the last few days. It follows immediately after my story about how it was there, on the way to the top of Kilimanjaro.
It was incredibly beautiful, amazing ... unforgettable ... and just as hard.
If only one knew in advance… if one could convey all the pain and suffering of a person going to the mountains, probably no one would go there. But this cannot be expressed in words, just as admiration and delight cannot be conveyed at the moment when you reach your goal and, standing on top of the world, wiping tears freezing on your eyelashes, you understand that you have won ... and at that moment you become a person who has defeated himself, your fear, your despair... and you feel like... and a king... and a god... and astronauts... and even a rock star... ⭐