Ushba classic description from Georgia. Mount ushba, svaneti, georgia. Upcoming trips in Georgia

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Dedicated to my friends who died while climbing Ushba.

Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba

I look at old photographs. I see the stern faces of people who risked their lives for the sake of true friendship and a common, indivisible victory into small parts. And the common victory, like real friendship, knows neither state nor national differences and borders. Some of these people are no longer alive. But their departure is not shrouded in bashful evasions and vague omissions. Everything is clear and simple. They knew why and where they were going. And they knew what price they could pay. And they paid. Completely.

Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba This story began a long time ago, braided with intricate knots around the peak with a strange and disturbing name - Ushba. From time immemorial, this mountain hangs like a gloomy rock mass over the Svan village of Mestia, with its severe grandeur from an early age filling the hearts of the highlanders with courage and pride in their people. How this happens is a mystery, but maybe it doesn't matter how. The important thing is that a simple traveler who accidentally finds himself on a road that, cutting through a mountain slope, descends in loops to Mestia, even a person who is a stranger to these mountains feels a strange tension. And it is not difficult to determine its source - a strict, majestic peak, eerily regular in shape, the vertical base of which seems to rest on the very edge of the village, where the ancient Svan towers have been taking an example of proud impregnability from this mountain for almost a thousand years.

Ushba is a special mountain for Svaneti. Any man of this tiny mountainous country grows up with a deep sense of respect and awe before his most worthy personal test - Ushba. In the very appearance of this mountain lies a challenge to the courage of man. Unapproachable and majestic, Ushba all the time serves as a reminder that encourages the most courageous to act, the audacity of which does not fit into the scheme of everyday necessities. Without the slightest selfish interest, the Svans risk their lives for the sake of a pure, meaningless from the generally accepted point of view, but at a huge cost of a given victory - climbing to the top of Ushba. Svans do not go to Ushba for money or awards. There is no economic or hunting interest there. A one-of-a-kind fact, amazing, like the whole history of Svaneti - a small mountainous country, whose proud and free disposition nature itself expressed in the form of a Mountain.

Central Caucasus, Climbing Ushba There is no greater reason for pride and respect in Svaneti than climbing Ushba, a peak that seems inaccessible to a mortal. For this unique quality, I especially love and respect the Svan people.

For us, Russian climbers, who are accustomed to seeing Ushba from the other side, from the north, this mountain does not have such a metaphysical significance as for the inhabitants of Svaneti, but still, its appearance is eye-catching and intimidating. The majestic double-headed peak rightfully reigns over the entire line of the Caucasus Range. No doubt - before you is the Queen. The tallest. The most slender. And inaccessible.

None of the peaks of the Caucasus is covered with such a halo of legends, stories and dramatic facts as Ushba. This Mountain is a Legend, no less famous than the European symbol of mountaineering - the Matterhorn. In some ways, these two mountains are very similar, some strange internal similarity unites them.

Historically - the same parallel. There would be no such drama and self-sacrifice in the birth of mountaineering in the Alps, if not for the Matterhorn. And who knows how Soviet mountaineering would have developed if not for Ushba?!

For a dozen generations of climbers, Ushba has become the foundation of mastery, the criterion of maturity. On stories about the legendary ascents of Ushba, they brought up in young athletes respect and the desire to improve mountaineering skills. But not everyone was able to achieve the desired goal. The cruelty and deceit of Ushba were also part of the glory of this peak. Many lives have been lost here...

And, as usual, I hear this question - was it worth it?! Woe to relatives, grief to friends. For what?! Ice and stone, the madness of a powerful element... But those who accepted the challenge and withstood this duel will not hesitate to answer. It was worth it. What remains in the heart justifies that risk. Many times.

There are few values ​​in the world that do not age. But since the first ascents of Ushba at the end of the 19th century, when Austrian climbers first climbed to uncharted heights the most difficult peaks Caucasus, and to the present day, when, at the risk of being behind bars for violating the state border and not even hoping for help in case of failure, climbers go on the most difficult routes - the price of the issue has not changed one iota - the game is definitely worth the candle.

Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba There are many beautiful routes on Ushba, among which there are no easy ones - only the strongest and most experienced climb this mountain. The names of the pioneers have also become a legend for a long time - Kokkin, Khergiani, Myshlyaev, Abalakov .... There was not a single athlete in the Union who crossed the master's line, who would not know the full depth of the meaning of this short word - Ushba. The Ushbists were especially respected, because they had a unique experience, which could only be obtained in a confrontation with the Queen of the Caucasus - Ushba. Even the categories of difficulty for routes to Ushba did not fall into the general framework of sports categories - athletes who did not have experience climbing routes of the same category were not allowed on the Ushba routes. Ushba has always been the most famous technical peak of the Caucasus in the country.

As you probably already understood, for me Ushba is not just a peak. From the very beginning of my acquaintance with the mountains, Ushba was the criterion by which the purity of aspirations, the strength of courage, and the inflexibility of the will are measured. This is the Top. I guess I'm a little swan in my heart. But after my first ascent of Ushba, I felt like a different person. And the success of our memorial ascent in 2002 is also largely based on a common understanding for all participants of the exceptional importance of Ushba and a reverent attitude towards it.

But Mount Legend, the cherished dream of so many climbers, is now outlawed.

Another amazing fact, quite a match for the rest. How is it possible that the world-famous peak, an inseparable part of the history of our, Soviet, and now Russian mountaineering, suddenly turned out to be banned, and climbing Ushba became a serious crime. However, this is the situation today.

Ushba is located in the short southern spur of the Main Caucasian Range. That is, abroad, which runs along this very ridge. The border with Georgia, for those who have not yet guessed. And Georgia is now an enemy for us.

Central Caucasus, climbing Ushba The state must protect its borders. From whom should they be protected? From enemies, of course, from criminals, smugglers and terrorists. But none of these criminal elements are interested in Ushba. It is difficult to even imagine a more fantastic, complex and intricate way to violate the border.

No, hundreds of heavily armed Russian border guards guard Ushba only from climbers. For what? Who needs to deprive people of the pure joy of sports victory? How did it happen that those who, not sparing their own lives, saved mine, and then wept at the top with the joy of a common victory - now, as propaganda claims, have become enemies?! No, something is wrong here. It can not be. I misunderstood something or got it all mixed up. After all, it cannot be that the enemies of the state become its own citizens?!

I just looked at old photos from the expedition to Ushba. The now forbidden top.

P.S. If (suddenly) this text catches the eye of one of those in whose hands there is power and authority over issues of a national scale, think, just think, no more - what's wrong with the fact that climbers will have the opportunity not only to look at Ushba and listen to the stories of veterans?! Is it really an unresolvable political impasse that the majestic peaks of Ushba can be accessed from the Russian side, as it has been for over 100 years? Is it really so difficult for politicians to take a step forward, even if not to each other, but at least to their own citizens, athletes, whose only interest is to be amazing at the top? beautiful mountain experience the pure joy of victory?! Is it really so difficult and deeply infringes on state interests?

Our principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, for almost 16 years now, the first Principle of work of the MCS AlexClimb Mountaineering and Climbing School has been Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle, the entire learning process is built, all programs and tours are developed and conducted exclusively within the framework of this main Principle. We believe that with a professional approach to program development, with personal discipline and the right motivation, mountaineering and rock climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And vice versa - all the troubles and accidents in our sport come from unprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect of elementary safety standards, from irrational motivation, from overestimation of one's own strengths and capabilities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDED in our work - our Climbing, Ice Climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - Safety Priority. In rock climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, MCS AlexClimb Safety Priority is your personal safety and comfort, whether we are training muscles and practicing movement techniques in the gym and on the climbing wall, making our way through a blizzard to the top or relaxing on the golden sands of the Caribbean. beach after a hot day of training on the rocks. Safety priority is the main credo of the MCS AlexClimb Mountaineering and Climbing School.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with nature, conducting active programs in the mountains, forests, rivers and lakes, we perfectly understand the importance of a careful and respectful attitude towards nature and its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor activities, we have adopted the Leave No Trace technique - a norm of human behavior in relation to the environment, and especially to wild nature. Indeed, in relation to people's attitude to nature, next to which they exist, far-reaching conclusions can be drawn about the attitude of these people to themselves ... Wherever and how we travel, we do not leave behind any garbage, we try to reduce our influence on environment to a minimum. We clean the previously polluted tourist sites from the left garbage, take out and take to the disposal sites what other people left there before us. We believe that only in this way, with the personal individual consciousness of every citizen, every tourist, climber or car traveler, we will be able to preserve the nature around us in its natural, habitable state - this is the guarantee of a healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Mind

It was in ancient times, when there were Gods on Earth...

The ancient people of the Svan tribe lived at the foot of the Holy Mountains...
And Betkil was the best Hunter in all of Svaneti, Betkil was lucky and handsome. Women's hearts beat when they saw Betkil walking past with his unchanging Bow of the Iron Tree and a quiver of sharp-pointed arrows on his back...
The most beautiful girl in all of Svaneti was chosen by Betkil the Hunter as his Bride, the day of a merry Wedding was already appointed, when Betkil decided to try his Luck and climb the Sacred Two-Headed Mountain Ushba, which, translated into other languages ​​from Svan, meant "Mountain that brings misfortune."

And then the Two-Headed Mountain was not at all impregnable, but simply the wise Old Men forbade anyone to go there, not their own, not someone else's. They considered the two-headed mountain Ushba sacred mountain where mortals do not live, but Gods live...

Betkil was young, brave and dexterous. Like a snow leopard, he climbed higher and higher, but along with joy, Pride came to him. No one has yet climbed the Top of the impregnable Two-horned Mountain, only Betkil was able to set foot on the Unexplored Part of the Forbidden Place.

And the Female Eyes of the Ancient Goddess of Hunting Dali looked at him from the Top....

The Goddess Betkil has noticed for a long time. She knew him from the wild, untrodden paths, where she often noticed him and sometimes helped in the Hunt.

And this time, from the very Foot of Her Two-horned Mountain, She watched the brave Hunter, at any moment she could throw him, like others before him, from a steep slope straight into a deep gorge. But the Goddess admired the beauty of a mere mortal, and suddenly, without even expecting herself, cast a spell...

And Time stopped on the Top of the Two-Headed Mountain... And the amazed young man saw the Beauty of the Goddess... He knelt down, knowing Who She is... And he bowed his head in anticipation of Punishment... The old people said: Holy place", but Betkil did not listen to them, and now Dali herself stands before him in the Radiance of the Night Moon ... But how beautiful the Eternally Young Goddess is! One can die to see what mere mortals cannot see ...

The Goddess glided towards him like a soft Shadow... And he felt with his skin the rustle of the weightless fabrics of Her wonderful clothes... And he heard a laughter like a crystal bell, and when cool and tender hands touched his hair, and he felt the taste of wild strawberries in his mouth, then Betkil decided to open his eyes and the Radiance of Beauty exploded in front of him with bright flashes...

Betkil and Dali arranged their Shelter for Hot Love Games by the beautiful Creek... Both of them did not notice anything, and Time stopped and from the Dark Sky with many bright stars the unchanging Moon shone for them, without changing the Sun...

But then one day Betkil left the sleeping Dali. Satisfied with his Fate, he stood on the Edge of the Summit and suddenly saw the warmly flickering lights of his native home. And suddenly it became cold to Betkil, and in vain the young man wrapped himself in his cloak, nothing helped. But Betkil remembered the Sun, remembered the warmth of the hearth, remembered the faces of Relatives, Friends and the smile of his Bride. And Betkil was ashamed that he had not kept His Word. The young man resolutely approached the edge and began to go down. He did not even cast a glance to where the Eternally Young Goddess Dali slept in a serene sleep.

And for all the people there was no Betkil for only one Night... No one noticed the absence of the Hunter... Everyone was preparing for the Magnificent Wedding and Unbridled Joy...

And high on the Top of the Two-Headed Mountain, the abandoned Goddess Dali fought in weeping and moaning ... Again and again she looked at the Wedding Feast in the distance and tears dripped into the Stream, where until recently she washed the Muscular Body of her Betkil ..

The Svans raised the Horns filled with Wine to the brim. The musicians beat the drums. The unmarried Girls were circling in a leisurely proud dance. The tables were bursting with many dishes. We wished the Young Groom and Bride happy days.

Betkil's head was spinning from the intoxicating drink, and the memories of Dali completely left him, and only a barely noticeable fear moved somewhere in the very depths of his heart. And Betkil poured himself more and more, trying to drown out his Bad Premonition... And getting drunk, Betkil laughed and talked about what a Great Hunter he was...

The old men looked at him disapprovingly, but could not object, for no one could get as much game as the Young Lucky Hunter brought... As if the Goddess of the Hunt Dali herself favored him...

And suddenly, unexpectedly for everyone, right at the edge of the mountain forest, the Black Tur, hitherto unknown in size, appeared... Its Powerful Horns shone with gold against the background of the Setting Sun...

And the men jumped up, ran home for their bows and slings, everyone wanted to get such a trophy and become famous among others. But Betkil was the first to lose his head. Armed men were just running out of the houses, and Betkil was already flying like the wind in pursuit of the Great Black Tour with Golden Horns.

And suddenly all the other men stood up as if rooted to the ground. With excitement, they saw how far in the mountains, barely visible how far, Betkil climbs the Forbidden and Holy Mountain, climbs for the Black Tur, and behind his heels the stones break off and the Mountain becomes an impregnable Wall, where it is impossible to climb and it is impossible to go down.

All the people screamed in vain, trying to warn Betkil about the Trouble, the Young Hunter did not hear them... He came to his senses only at the already familiar Peak, when the Black Tur melted in the air... Betkil looked around helplessly, and saw that behind him was a sheer wall, on which there is no way back ever.

Then Betkil understood everything. He turned to face the Top, sighed sadly and said, twisting his lips: "Rejoice, Dali. Your Charms are still working."...

And after the words he turned back over his shoulder and looked longingly at the Towers of the Ancestral House in the distance below... And then She came out from behind one of the Horns.... And Triumph sparkled on her Cold Face.... A simple one will not go anywhere a mortal... He didn't want to serve on an equal footing, - such is the fate of a mere mortal before the Gods...

And the Young Hunter approached the edge of the Great Abyss on the Edge ... He put his palms with a mouthpiece and shouted so that it could be heard down there:

Do you hear me, my Bride?!...

And came in response: -I hear you, My Beloved Betkal!

Dance the Dance of the Bride for me, My Beloved!!!

The Goddess Dali was fascinated by the graceful dance of a mere mortal...

Do you hear, my sister?! Betkal shouted again.

Yes bro! - came from the Abyss Below...

Show, dear, how you will mourn your Brother!!!

And the Sister thrashed in tears, feeling unkind ...

Do you hear me, your Son, Svan people?! - Betkal asked, and Pride was heard in his voice ...

And all the people shouted: "Yes, we hear You, Betkal!"

Know, then, My People, that a Glorious Death is better than the Life of a Slave! - and the Glorious Hunter Betkal turned to the Pale Goddess Dali and with a smile of the Winner looked into Her astonished Face and Proudly thrusting his chest forward, stepped into the Abyss...

Terrible was the cry of the people when this happened... Terrible was the cry of the Goddess Dali... She tried to catch the Young Hunter, but even the Gods could not fly as fast as the mere mortal Betkal flew that day. And on that Day He became Immortal for Ages and Millennia.

The Svan people still honor Proud Betkal. Until now, the Old Men forbid anyone, neither their own nor strangers, to climb the Two-horned Mountain Ushba ... For this is a Holy Place ... And ordinary mortals cannot understand this ...

The mystical mountain Ushba attracts tourists with its mystery, despite the fact that it is the eighth highest mountain compared to the rest of the mountains of Georgia. Because of weather conditions Ushba is always different, always making an unforgettable impression.

Description

The name of the mountain is translated as "Mountain that brings grief." locals sometimes the peak is called Uzhba. The location of the mountain is so good on Caucasian ridge that it can be seen even from the Russian border. In the Karachay-Cherkess region, you can hear the word "yuch-bash". It is translated into Russian as three peaks, which sounds rather strange, because Ushba has two peaks. The northern and southern peaks are observed from any side and from different angles.

The highest point of the Ushba Mountain is 4700 meters. The northern summit was conquered in 1888 by Kokklin and Almer. The southern one was conquered later in the 20th century in 1903 by an expeditionary group headed by Rickmer-Rikmers. The translation of the name of the mountain "coven of witches" is considered incorrect, it was invented by climbers and tourists conquering this peak.

Ushba has another name - "Caucasian Matterhorn", it was so called by tourist guides because of its picturesqueness and beauty. With this name, they held an analogue with a popular mountain in Switzerland.

Ushba can be seen from any point of the Svaneti Range. From the Georgian side, it is best to view the mountain landscape from the village of Mazeri (Becho community), from here many people also start climbing. But from Mazeri, only one southern peak is visible. In order to see two peaks at the same time, you need to climb up about one kilometer to the glaciers.

Mountain Legends

In the Svan language, the word "Ushba" means "mountain that brings grief." This designation is often compared to the legend of Betkel, a man who was a hunter. He was lucky, and hunting game was his favorite pastime. This man calmly ascended the massifs of Svaneti, but one day he decided to climb the Ushba peak.

When he climbed to the mountain peak, there he met the goddess of the hunt, Dali. She made him fall in love with herself, and Betkel stayed with her to live. But one day he missed his home and secretly ran away. But the goddess could not forgive the guy for this offense, and decided to return him at all costs to the Ushba peak when he was hunting.

When Betkel was rising, the path behind him began to collapse. The hunter began to realize that there was no more way back, and out of desperation he threw himself down the cliff. Despite the fact that this story is considered a legend, the local population still believes that the red granite deposits on the summit are Betkel's blood.

For a long time, tourists were forbidden to climb the mountain. But recently, the authorities have allowed climbers with guides to enter. But not every person will dare to deliver travelers to the route to the top.

Peaks of Ushba

This mountain is different Caucasus mountains that has two vertices. The slopes of both are covered with reddish granite deposits. The length of the granite is about 1.5 kilometers.

• The northern peak is located at an altitude of 4690 meters from sea level. The first person to reach this peak made the ascent in 1888. Experienced climber John Garford Cocklin became the first person to climb the northern peak.
• The southern peak is only about 20 meters higher than the northern peak. The first people to reach this peak were in 1903 on a world-class expedition led by Willy Rickmer-Rickmers.

Climatic conditions on the two peaks differ significantly from the main climate around them. If the valley has sunny warm weather, then the peaks can be foggy and rainy. A strong wind always blows between the two peaks, no matter what the weather is around. In hot summer, the air temperature on two peaks reaches -10C, and sometimes -20C.

Historical facts of ascent

experienced climbing groups, starting from the 19th century, dreamed of climbing this Ushba peaks. Thrill-seekers were attracted by the mysteriousness and impregnability of the mountain. After the conquest of the northern peak by John Kokklin, many tried to repeat his feat, but no one succeeded. Until 1936, only 10 professional climbers reached the South Summit. And on the most difficult North up - only 5.

The path to the Ushba tops is difficult because climbers often have to overcome difficult slopes. And from the north of the mountain, only a plane in a vertical position can be observed. It is called "Mirror of Ushba". One of the people who successfully overcame the "mirror" was from the USSR Mikhail (Gabriel) Khergiani. The conquest of this peak took place in 1964.

The conquest of Ushba is so difficult that there have been sad cases in history. In 1984, a mountaineering club from Georgia, the group consisted of 6 people, they were destroyed by a snow-ice avalanche. In 1955, 5 people fell off the northern peak, 20 meters were not enough for them to climb up. In 2000 on climbing camp an ice collapse fell - four people from Russia and several climbers from England died. Their bodies were never found.

How to climb the mountain

Despite the fact that Ushba is not one of the highest mountains in the Caucasus, it is difficult to climb it. There are very few successful trips to the very peak compared to unsuccessful attempts. This is due to the increased difficulty on the ascent scale of 6 points. The northern peak is rated 4A-6A in difficulty, and the South has an extremely difficult mark of 5A-6A.

To climb the mountain, you can consider all the routes, of which there are more than five. But most of them are considered extremely difficult, especially for beginners it is better not to start with them. Most proven paths:

• The northeast ridge with a mark of 4A belongs to the classic routes. The northern peak can be reached through the Ushba pass and complex logging. The hike up can take from 8 to 20 hours, it all depends on the experience and fitness of the group. Back from the mountain there are two options - to go down through the same pass or through the Ushba pillow. You can approach this path only from Georgia, there is no road from the Russian Federation. The border to Ushba is closed, and crossing it is considered a serious violation of the law. Recently, there was a strong ice collapse on the Russian side, through which no one will be able to get through. Therefore, now you can go to the route through Mestia (a small village).
• The route through the South Face of difficulty 5B is considered one of the most difficult to climb. But to climb the southern peak is the best option. Climbers will have to go along the road opened by Mikhail Khergiani. Then you need to climb the South-West ridge. Further, it is even more difficult - you need to overcome the "mirror" of Ushba and go down to the village of Gul. The whole way to the peak and back down in time takes about two days. A person without climbing training will not be able to climb this road. The coherence of the group, excellent physical preparation, and the ability to use equipment are important here.

Beginning climbers are advised to practice before climbing Ushba. For example, for starters, you can get to the top of Kazbek or Laila. Experienced climbers prefer complicated routes - along the wall from the East. Also, professionals often climb the east or west ridges, or through the icefalls near the northwest face.

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Conclusion

The great risk and the maximum expenditure of energy, the dangerous ascent are worth those unforgettable minutes at the top of the Ushba mountain. Regardless of which peak the climber managed to climb, happiness from being at the top, freedom and the mighty spirit of the Caucasus can be fully felt there - on the Ushba peak.

In contact with

Mountain Ushba ("Coven" from Georgian) is located at the very end of the Shkhelda Gorge, on the border of Russia and Georgia. Altitude 4700 m above sea level.

The Ushba massif consists of two peaks - North (4690 m) and South (4710 m). They are connected by the Ushba jumper or "pipe", this name is not given in vain, even in good weather it's windy.

Ushba is considered one of the most difficult "four-thousanders" in the world. The easiest route to the North Ushba is 4A, to the South - 5A.

From all sides, the slopes of the massif break off with steep 1000 - 1500-meter walls, along which 10 routes of the 6th category of difficulty and 13 - 5B k.tr. Today, about fifty routes have been laid on Ushba, a dozen of which are classified in category 6a, and about thirty have category 5b.

The simplest, which has become a classic route to Northern Ushba (4A) passes through the Ushba plateau through a characteristic "shoulder" called "Pillow", and then along a steep ice-snow "knife" of 300 meters, which rises from the "Pillow" to the summit ridge . There is ice under the snow, and if there was heavy snow in the days preceding the ascent, the danger of avalanches increases sharply. Further along the long northern ridge, framed by double cornices, exit to the summit. They usually climb from the Ushba plateau and spend 6-8 hours to the top and 2-4 hours for the descent.

Ushba is a killer mountain, a ghost mountain. All the romance of mountaineering recedes before her cruelty and waywardness. Sometimes climbing from just hard work turns into a desperate fight for life. But inexorably the mountain with its impregnable grandeur continues to attract to itself, flashing at sunset with the light of red coals, burning the soul and calling, alluring, flickering in the coming darkness.
I came across these lines on the Web on one of the sites when I was trying to understand the reason for such frequent accidents with climbers who stormed this peak this summer.
Rising behind the Shkhelda Gorge, Ushba is one of the most prestigious and widely known massifs in the world, it was noted further on this site. Its special shape disturbing the imagination, the grandiose scale of the walls and the history of conquest created the Legend of the Summit, which has such a formidable name - the Witches' Sabbath, as the name Ushba is translated from Georgian.

Ushba is the most famous mountain in Svaneti and probably one of the most famous in the entire Caucasus. It is far from the highest (4690 meters), but it is distinguished by a certain pointed shape, and the difficulty of climbing. Ushba has two peaks, North and South. From the Georgian side, only the southern side is more often visible - for example, from the side of the Becho community.

The mountain is composed mainly of garnites and is characterized by characteristic steep slopes. On the north side there is a large, completely vertical plane, which is called the Mirror of Ushba. At one time, the famous Georgian climber Khergiani passed the mirror.

bad season

The fact that Ushba is the subject of dreams for many climbers was confirmed by the current season, which turned out to be exceptionally intense in terms of the number of ascents. It is known that not all of them ended happily, and some, unfortunately, tragically. Let's give some examples.

Georgian rescuers assisted a group of Russian climbers of four people who had been in the mountains of Svaneti for almost six days and could not get out, having fallen under an avalanche and rockfall. One of them had an injured leg. The rescuers were still able to take out the climbers by helicopter and deliver them to Mestia. More than 60 rescuers were involved in the rescue work.

By the evening of August 12, Georgian rescuers managed to lift the body of a Russian climber from the crevice, who had fallen off while climbing Ushba, said Ilya Japaridze, head of the administration of the Mestia regional center. Rescuers worked all day in extremely difficult conditions, Japaridze said. According to him, the climber's body was delivered to the regional center of Mestia, then the Georgian side took up resolving issues related to his delivery to his homeland.

Ilya Dzhaparidze said that a group of Russian climbers of three people, one of whom died, were climbing the summit of Ushba from the Russian side. The climbers came from the buffer zone where they can move freely. Therefore, the local structures in Svaneti had no prior information about this ascent.

The head of the administration of Mestia noted that other groups of Russian and Ukrainian climbers are currently on Ushba, but everything is in order with them, and they have their own program to conquer the mountain peak. The Department of Emergency Situations of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Georgia reported the other day that five Italian tourists were in the rockfall zone on Mount Ushba, and they needed help. There were two women among the climbers. Rescuers in a helicopter were able to reach the Italians asking for help and transport them to a safe place.

The story of the Armenian climber deserves special attention. The climber climbed Ushba alone. He was taken captive by the mountains due to... lack of equipment (?!). Asked for help to get down from the top. However, due to difficult weather conditions and the inaccessibility of the place, the helicopter could not immediately fly up there. Rescuers still managed to take the climber to a safe place.

Expensive pleasure

So, reports about Italian tourists or an Armenian climber with insufficient equipment undoubtedly push one to think about whether everything is fine-tuned in organizing ascents to such a capricious mountain beauty as Ushba. How will they check the readiness of groups and single climbers? Is it possible to dissuade tourists from such a difficult route?

In this regard, let me remind you of an incident that happened recently in the mountains of Tibet. A Chinese climber was forcibly removed from Everest for an unauthorized ascent - without a tour group and permission, he reached the mark of 7772 meters and practically conquered the most high mountain in the world. To the top point, he was only a kilometer 76 meters away.

It should be noted that permission to conquer Everest, to put it mildly, is an expensive pleasure -: minimum cost is 25 thousand dollars (excluding the cost of equipment and instructor). A significant part of the ascents is organized by specialized companies, and climbers climb as part of commercial groups.

The clients of these firms pay for the services of guides who provide the necessary training, equipment and, as far as possible, ensure safety along the way. The cost of such a conquest of Everest is 70 thousand dollars, but the extreme is worth it. Now, almost every day, we see helicopters flying against the backdrop of snowy peaks on television news, we see how our brave climbers rush to the rescue of their foreign colleagues, we see what great efforts, what risks they take to save people in trouble. So it should be, honor and praise to them!

But at the same time, first of all, there should be a system of warnings that will allow tourists or unprepared climbers to close the path to Ushba. Obviously, it is necessary to create a special service that would be responsible for the preparation and organization of mountain ascents. It is that service that could be entrusted with issuing licenses-permits for the conquest of Ushba, Mkinvartsveri, Tetnulda or other peaks.

The story of how the sovereign prince of Svaneti - Dadeshkeliani in 1903 officially presented Ushba to the climber Chenchi von Fikker, a member of the Rickmers expedition, is well known. A deed of gift has been preserved for this event. The Svans were offended: how can one give a mountain to a foreigner. Dadeshkeliani was not only a man of grand gestures. He was also apparently endowed with great humour. He answered the offended fellow tribesmen: The mountain, as it stood, still stands, but the woman is pleased.

Ushba stood as it is, we are convinced today. And still a magnet attracts daredevils. It doesn't even take much effort to promote it. We only need to take care that already at the initial stage, as much as possible to protect climbers from emergencies.

Givi Koridze

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