Climbing camp Uzunkol. Alpine camp "Uzunkol": reviews and photos. Brief history
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Author:Kavunenko Rimma Vladimirovna, Moscow,
master of sports in mountaineering, instructor of the 1st category,
deputy director of the a/l "Uzunkol" for educational and sports work since 1991.
Alpine camp "Uzunkol"
HISTORICAL INFO about UZUNKOL
The Staro-Karachaevsky section of the Western Caucasus (Main Caucasian Range), 40 km long. began to be seriously mastered by climbers and tourists only since 1936. In 1936, the group of G. Sukhodolsky climbed routes 1 B k / sl to the peaks of Talychat and Gvandra (V).
During the summer of 1937, members of the Lokomotiv mountaineering camp, the Leningrad section of mountaineering, the Avangard of the Leningrad Mining Institute and some others climbed almost all the significant peaks of this region.
The Western Caucasus is distinguished by the picturesqueness of the valleys, the beauty of the forests and the steepness of the slopes. The rivers flowing down the slopes to the north are the sources of the Kuban. The rivers Uchkulan and Ullukam (15 km) merge to form the Kuban. Rivers descending from the Main Caucasian Range flow into Ullukam: Ulluozen (5 km), V. Kichkinekol (6 km), Chiryukol (10 km) and Uzunkol (8 km). The place where Uzunkol flows into Ullukam is called Kovdun. Uzunkol is formed from the confluence of two rivers: Myrda (6 km) and Kichkinekola (4 km). This place is called the Uzunkol Glade.
In terms of climbing, the most interesting are the Main Caucasian Range with peaks - Kichkinekol, Filter, Zamok, Twin, Dalar, Chocolate Peak, Kirpich and Gvandra.
Between the rivers Chiryukol and Uzunkol there is a ridge Chat with highest point top of Chat-bashi and further Dolomites - a wonderful multi-peak rock group. A short spur between the Myrda and Kichkinekol rivers has the peaks of Irchat, Malaya and Bolshaya Trapeziya and Uzunkol peak.
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To the north of the Main Caucasian is the Coursho group. The ridge connecting Coursot with Ch. Caucasian ridge peaks: Mursaly, Dzhalpakol, Ak-bashi, Ak-tour, Pyramid, Kara-bashi and to the west: Krugozor Myrda, Trident and Ai-petri.
Between the rivers S. Nahar and Gondarai there is a grandiose rocky ridge - Nahar (12 km) with three peaks: Southern, middle and Big Nahara (Igumine).The Ullukam River originates on the southwestern glacier of Elbrus, from the north it is bordered by the Kebek-Jirin-Kurshou ridge.
Below the Uzunkolskaya Polyana, since 1959, the mountaineering camp of the sports society "Spartak" of the Mountaineering Department of the VDSO of trade unions has settled. First - a tent city, then more solid wooden "Finnish" houses, a stone canteen building - national masonry.
500-600 people visited "Uzunkol" on preferential vouchers for five shifts (20 days each). The gorges came to life, the queue for the routes (even to the distant ones) of the Black Towers. Detachments of "novices" walked in a string - 5-6 departments (10-12 people each). The youth received a healthy lifestyle, hardening, interesting cognitive communication and a feat of will!
Initial bivouacs for climbing were formed: in Berezki, Verkhny Myrdovsky, in Karman, on the "Lamb Foreheads", Ice, on the Dalar pass, under the Chocolate Peak on the madder, "Spartakovsky" - on the bridge between Dalar and Twins, Dolomites overnight stays, on the Dolomites lakes .
In the sixties, the development of the wall routes of the peaks of the Uzunkol alpinist region: Dalar, Kirpich, Dolomites, Trapeze, Zamka by groups under the guidance of famous climbers - A. Semenov, Chernoslivin, G. Agranovsky, V. Kavunenko, N. Koshel, A. Kolchin, K .Ratotaeva B. Korablina, V. Stepanova.
The harmoniously organized system of training climbers collapsed in 1992. The Uzunkol high-mountain sports and health center is now part of Alamat JSC, is not financed by anyone and lives off the enthusiasm of workers and visiting youth.
INTELLIGENCE on the educational and sports work of the All-Russian Sports and Educational Center "Uzunkol" for 2000
Director Khabchaev Enver Khasanbievich
Deputy director for educational and sports work Kavunenko Rimma Vladimirovna - ms. 1 cat.
Heads of public rescue teams: Volkov Mikhail Evgenievich - kmc, 3rd cat., Lavrinenko Vladimir Vyacheslavovich - ms, 2nd cat., Zhilin Denis Aleksandrovich - 1r.3 cat.
Doctors: Tiselko Alena Viktorovna - Zr., Milenin Oleg Nikolaevich - kms.
Arrival of participants - 296 people:
of which: performed sports categories:
initial training stage-133 people
"badgeists"- 10 people 50 people
3rd category- 58 people 58 people
2nd category - 23 people 23 people
1st category- 41 people 5 people
kms- 19 people 3 people
ms- 11 people
MSMK- 1 person
During the summer season in WSOC worked - 29 instructors:
Full Name. |
Sport.kv |
City |
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Abramov Pavel Borisovich |
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Abramova Ludmila Vladimirovna |
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Barykin Igor Ivanovich |
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Vinokurov Anatoly Filippovich |
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Volodin Viktor Gennadievich |
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Goncharov Sergey Nikolaevich |
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Dzhaparidze Yury Otarovich |
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Ermilov Sergey Alexandrovich |
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Zhilin Denis Alexandrovich |
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Zhurzdin Vladimir Ivanovich |
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Kirpichev Nikolai Sergeevich |
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Kolesnikov Mikhail Rudolfovich |
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Korbut Fedor Semenovich |
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Kuznetsov Alexander Georgievich |
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Kuznetsov Anatoly Alexandrovich |
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Kurova Olga Pavlovna |
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Lavrinenko Vladimir Vyacheslavovich |
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Mukhametshin Rauf Adgamovich |
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Melnikov Mikhail Evgenievich |
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Semykin Boris Ivanovich |
Volgograd |
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Smirnova Elena Ivanovna |
Volgograd |
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Sushko Sergey Evgenievich |
Tolyatti |
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Tokmakov Valery Stepanovich |
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Urbansky Alexander Vladimirovich |
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Fedotenkov Gennady Vasilievich |
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Fonarev Andrey Yakovlevich |
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Khankevich Andrei Georgievich |
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Shulepov Georgy Gennadievich |
Syktyvkar |
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Yablokov Konstantin Yurievich |
Ascents made:
Cat. complicated |
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Number of people |
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including Moscow |
There were 2 independent collections: Stavropol - hands. Magomedov P.P.
Astrakhan - hands. Borzasekov S.V. The camps were located outside the territory of the Uzunkol All-Russian Sports Center, but used the services of the Uzunkol training unit: the dispatch service for entering the routes, training facilities, equipment rental, route filing, luggage storage, car parking, final documentation.
The participants of the training camp made ascents:
Cat. complicated |
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Stavropol |
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Astrakhan |
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A total of 1090 man-ascents were made.
Information about climbing routes 5-6th cat. sl. in 2000
the date |
Vertex |
Route |
Group members |
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S.Dolomite |
bast.Z.walls |
Timokhin L.V. Nesterov A.V. |
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S.Dolomite |
bast.Z.walls |
Semykin B.I. Chentsov V.G. Yatsenko S.G. Shikin Yu.M. |
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C, Dolomite |
bast.Z.walls |
Dubrovsky A.Ch. Belous S.S. |
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with AC V. rowing. |
Olovyanny O.V. Boyko A.I. Lakeev M.G. Sosnin P.V. Sungatullin P.P. Gromozdova E.M. |
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with altern.V. rowing |
Mikhailov M.M. Kolesnikov M.R. |
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S. Dolomite |
bast.Z.sten. option |
Milenin O.N. Turchaninov I.V. - first passage |
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with variable V.comb. |
Kurova O.P. Zabolotny R.V. Nazarov S.N. Vasiliev V.A. |
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Akimov S.V. Zhivaev S.A. |
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S.Dolomite |
bast.Z.walls |
Abramov P.B. Vasiliev V.A. |
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along the south wall |
Maximenya A.G. - solo |
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along the N-E rib |
Volkov M.E. Fonarev A.Ya. Karpov A.V. Chistyakov S.A. |
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twin |
according to "Kant" |
Lapitsky A.L. Lugov A.N. |
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along the N-E rib |
Boyko V.V. Zhitnik V.E. |
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Peak Chocolate |
along the Yu-3 wall |
Volkov M.E. Fonarev A.Ya. |
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Peak Chocolate |
along the Yu-3 wall |
Timokhin L.V. Nesterov A.V. |
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along the N-E rib |
Turchaninov I.V. Milenin O.N. |
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Ruleva N.A. Kurova O.P. |
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NE walls. In the shoulder |
Semykin B.I. Chentsov V.G. Yatsenko S.G. Shikin Yu.M. |
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along the NE edge |
Dubrovsky A.Ch. Kogan V.E. Bedous S.S. |
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along the south wall |
Dubrovsky A.Ch. Kogan V.E. Belous S.S. |
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Peak Chocolate |
Yu-3. wall |
Simakov S.A. Ryzhenkova I.P. Volikov K.S. Kolesnikov M.R. |
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C. wall bast. |
Maximenya A.G. - solo |
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Japaridze Yu.O. Pivikov D.E. Khomchenko D.S. Vinokurov A.F. |
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by the wall |
ShavrovichA-L. Puchnin V.E. Rylov N.V. Smirnov A.P. |
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along the "rhombus" 3 walls. |
Boyko V.V. Zhitnik V.E. Khomchenko D.S. Pivikov D.E. |
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along the "rhombus" of 3 walls. |
Volodin V.G. Lavrinenko V.V. Timme E.A. Yanochkin V.I. Yablokov K.A. |
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according to S-V Art. bast. |
Maximenya A.G. - solo |
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along the N. wall bast. |
Puchnin V.E. Shavrovich A.L. Rylov N.V. |
While they were looking for a driver on the arrow of Ullukam and Uchkulan, they found a district police officer. He sadly told that on the eve of the crew from Ukraine, for some unknown reason, jumped into the water intake of Uchkulan (aka the "Khurzuk water intake" on the Ullukam River, half a kilometer above the village) on a deuce Triton, after which it was dismantled there, one rower was washed, and the other lifeguards took all day. It is difficult to judge why they were carried there, but there were not many options - the barrel was ideal from coast to coast and inspired after the rains.
Having spent about half an hour in Aktobe checking border documents, we moved to the alpine camp, but because of the bad road we arrived there at night.
1. At 11 p.m., the light is cut off in the alpine camp. There is also a warm shower, a terrible toilet, a bar with khychins and several houses for compact living.
We preferred to sleep in tents (as well as 50 other people). in the houses a little trash.
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3.
4.
5. In the morning we woke up from the children's boil and the rattling of iron around the tent - we were initiated into climbers. An experienced climber in chemical protection and an ice ax and his accomplices
they hit the children with rugs (“miner”), poured water on them and took many promises not to tell their parents, etc. in exchange for the "Alpinist of Russia" badge.
6. Ford through Uzunkol opposite the camp.
7. View of the valley and the camp.
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9.
10.
11. Summit Sev. Dolomites (3780m).
12. Castle
The heyday of mountaineering came in the Soviet years. Vysotsky, guitars, conquering peaks and nature... Alpine camps were built - essentially the same recreation centers around the city, but only in the mountains. In the 90s, of course, everything became sad. Nowadays, Bezengi and Ullu-Tau feel relatively well. The remaining bases either closed or miraculously survived. One of these bases is the Uzunkol alpine camp.
It is located in the Uzunkola valley. From the frontier post Khurzuk, which can be reached by a regular car, to the camp about 9 kilometers is not the most pleasant road for a car. So we went on foot, with the hope of passing the Dolomites pass and returning through another gorge to the outpost. From the outpost to the village, by the way, the same number - if you come by bus, then it's better to take a transfer - some views are not very beautiful, albeit mountains.
Actually, I was not going to stop in the camp, but a passing UAZ picked us up halfway. The owner of the camp, Enver, turned out to be an ordinary local man behind the wheel. He refused to take money, and as a thank you, I set up a tent in the camp - 200 rubles per person. For this money you can go to the shower - well, you don’t worry about the tent, there are a lot of cows wandering around, for example, you never know. We stayed here for three nights. Back also successfully left a passing gazelle. So the heavy backpack had to be dragged only three kilometers this time.
Yes, you can live in houses for 500-600 rubles per person. The atmosphere is Soviet, like the camp itself, but the price for a mattress rest is not bad. Yes, if there is no car, the transfer costs about one and a half thousand per person one way. On a low car, it’s better not to meddle here, but the Lada will pass quite well.
In the dining room, they seem to be fed, but we ourselves cooked, like a large mattress company that lived in houses. A kilometer just above the camp there is a hut where a local resident cooks khychyny. For 100 rubles. Ayran is also a hundred rubles - for one and a half liters.
The prices are not too low, the nature around is ordinary Caucasian, but the place is very sincere, besides, once a year you need to visit something new, I have not been here yet.
View of the Uzunkol alpine camp from the slope of the mountain
Camp - a couple of dozen wooden houses and the remains of Soviet structures for sports
Canteen and administration
rock wall
Our tent was by no means alone - there were tents of Krasnodar residents around. They had training sessions. But there were very few of them in the camp - they all went to the mountains.
The houses are named after the surrounding peaks.
Pictures of these peaks
Here the artist used fantasy. There is no such view here, the peak in the background is lower.
Drifts are creepy)
Once there was a fountain
Well, why do girls show their tongues in the photo?
At the camp there is a bridge to the other side. And ford. Then only UAZs and military equipment. Once the border guards passed. Successfully they put their house near the hychyny hut.
Dog. Just a dog. Like others mountain dogs very kind and smart. In cities and villages, dogs are completely different. As are people.
Ford
One of the sources of the Kuban ... But in general, the Kuban from Elbrus still flows.
Rams!
Sheep also belong to the owner of the camp, Enver, but unlike tourists, they do not live in a tent, but in a kosh on the other side
Vovka and Enver Khasanbievich Khabchaev, host of the camp
Enver allowed to drive sheep, he didn’t drive, Vovka liked it
Kosh
Lamb
Just above the camp there is a creepy place
A small canyon, where not even a waterfall, but a whirlpool!
Impressed. It's even scary to stand at the edge.
And it was so quiet and peaceful there. Went down the three easiest routes. They didn’t go to the Dolomites - Vovka found friends in the camp and they spent all the evenings with a company somewhere in the forest and abandoned buildings, while I was preparing food.