Ergaki. Trekking in the Western Sayans. Fabulous Ergaki: Lake of Artists, Parabola Preparation for a trip to Ergaki

I continue my photo report about the trip to Ergaki. Today I will show you the most picturesque place, for which many people go to Ergaki, — lake of artists and Parabola in Ergaki.

Crossing the Pass of Artists

1. Today we started from our parking lot at the Crossroads and went to the main beauties of Ergakov, which are located behind the Pass of Artists. The weather today pleased with the absence of rain, so there was no need to worry about wet stones. We walked along the already familiar path to Karovoe (Lower Buibinskoe) Lake. With backpacks, the transition was more difficult, but still, thanks to several days of active walks along the kurumnik, it no longer seemed very difficult. When we reached the lake, I looked towards the Pass of the Artists and just above it there was a bright white gap in the clouds.

2. After some time, the weather really changed, and the sun appeared. It was extremely pleasant to feel its warm rays on us, which we had not seen for several days in a row.

3. View of Peak Molodyozhny.

4. View from the pass towards Lake Khudozhnikov. You can already see it among the trees.

5. From the pass there was a good view of the lakes. And after the rain they obviously become more than now. You can see a few nameless ones that can turn this place into a real lake district.

6. The most difficult thing today was the descent from Pass Artists. More experienced members of our group helped the others with backpacks. Stomping among the rocks along the kurumnik, I understand that this is really mine. This is what delights both the process itself and the result - when you look back and see the path traveled.

7. It remains only to be glad that the transitions that seemed difficult before the trip are quite possible to go through, and even enjoy the process.

8. Ergaki is really a fabulous country, and I will not get tired of repeating it, because the nature here is amazing!

9. After kurumnik we saw Lake Harmony, and it exactly lives up to its name.

10. Sitting on the shore, you feel a sense of peace and quiet, looking at its smooth lines and circles of rain running across the water.

11. Peace and complete detachment from all worries, even if only for a few minutes, which lasts our halt, can give a huge amount of strength and energy.

12. And now we come to the valley in which the well-known in Ergaki hid lake of artists. Emotions overflow, I want to get a camera and start shooting everything that the eye sees. I stop myself with the fact that among this beauty there are still many days to live. We still admire the mirror luggage of lakes, the seething streams of waterfalls and the ghostly silhouettes of cedars in the fog.

13. In the meantime, I am immensely happy, opening my soul towards a dream. After all, how could it be otherwise when you are sitting on the shore, looking at the gathering dusk and watching the fantastic Parabola in Ergaki, which gradually disappears in the descending fog. Thanks to Misha for his wonderful world that he opens up for us. True happiness is to appreciate every moment of your life, which is now filled with harmony and beauty of the world around Ergakov.

Climbing the parabola

14. The next day was the sixth and can be safely called an ode to the tripod, because today I made a lot of shots with it. It began with an early seven-hour breakfast and promised to be fine, so we quickly gathered in a radial trip to Parabola.

15. First we climbed the first part of the parabola - the Fat Brother. At times, our ascent looked funny, but, oddly enough, it was quite real.

16. From the height of the Parabola in Ergaki, you can look at mountain spirit lake.

17. Or you can linger, because there is no eternal city fuss here.

18. Admire the surrounding views of the mountain Ergakov.

19. Or have fun jumping over the abyss.

20. But the Lake of Artists from this point has lost all its picturesqueness. Some uneven accumulation of water of different depths mixed with stones.

21. We went back to the Lake of Mountain Spirits.

22. Walked along its shore.

23. Another look at Ergaki, Lake of Artists.

24. Peace and landscapes of wondrous beauty. You can admire and not rush anywhere.

25. We continue to examine Ergaki. The parabola is a giant rock with two peaks: Fat Brother (left) and Thin Brother. The height of the cliff is about 500 meters. There is a straight line between the peaks. You can only see it from a certain angle. From all other sides, the rock does not look like a parabola at all.

26. At the base of the parabola is located lake of artists.

27. With white clouds, the Lake of Artists looks completely different.

28. A lot of cheerful blue flowers grow around to match the sky.

29. Bright blue watersheds.

31. In Ergaki, in the vicinity of the lake of Artists and the parabola, there are a great many of them.

32. There are other blue flowers.

33. Another look at the Parabola, straight ahead.

Evening on the Lake of Artists in Ergaki

34. And in conclusion, a few evening shots taken on the lake of artists in Ergaki.

35. There are no crowds of tourists here even in summer, so you can enjoy the silence.

36. To the accompaniment of timid sunset colors lake of artists looks especially beautiful. No wonder it has become a favorite place for Krasnoyarsk artists. For which it got its name.

37. The famous island on the Lake of Artists leaves no one indifferent.

38. We admire the reflection of sunset clouds in the lake.

39. Here they are, Ergaki and the Lake of Artists.

40. Saying goodbye to this day, the sun gilded the tops of the Parabola and hid behind the pass.

41. Fairyland Ergaki. The parabola is proof of this.

42. Here comes the evening. The sun hid. So it's time for us to sleep.

You can see other photos taken on the territory of the Krasnoyarsk Territory in

Parabola Rock is one of the most mysterious places in the Ergaki Nature Park. It consists of two peaks connected by a graceful curve, which makes the rock ideally similar to the mathematical figure of the same name.

Origin

The origin of the rock is still a mystery. Studying solar activity on the days of the spring and autumn equinoxes, the researchers made the assumption that the rock could be an ancient megalithic observatory.

Visions and delight

Seeing Parabola for the first time, many tourists experience a feeling of inexplicable delight and inner jubilation. The beauty of this rock, surrounded by more high peaks, is truly amazing.
Having admired the mountain panoramas, the brain, as a rule, begins to look for an explanation for this phenomenon. Further, it turns out that miracles do not end with the shape of the rock. The granite that makes up the rock has a smooth surface, as if it had been polished with a modern diamond tool, which suggests the artificial origin of the miracle. By the way, the scientific world in this matter is also divided into two camps: some argue in favor of the natural erosion of the granite massif, others refute these arguments and put forward reasonable versions about the man-made origin of the rock. From the side, it seems that this is a huge parabolic antenna located inside a giant stone bowl, the walls of which form adjacent ridges. Whichever of the hypotheses is correct, some members of the groups who climbed the rock claim that extraordinary visions visited them at this place, and events happened to them that are difficult to explain by everyday logic. Whether this is really so, you can find out only by visiting this unique place and looking at the legendary Parabola with your own eyes.

Route thread: Abakan - Usinsky tract - Tushkanchik river - Svetloe lake - Tushkanchik pass (n / c) - Nizhnee Buibinskoe lake - Khudozhnikov-2 pass (1A *) - Lower Parabola pass (n / c) - Bird pass (1A) - Svetloe lake - Zvezdny pass (2A) - Pikantny pass (1B) - Vidovka pass (n / c) - Svetloe lake - Jerboa waterfall (radial) - Zolotarnoye lake - Zeleny pass (1A) - Bezrybnye lake (radial) - West Twins pass (1B) - Climbing the Dragon's Tooth peak (2176 m) - Zharki pass - Vostochny pass (1A) - Bolshoye Buibinskoye lake - Upper Buiba river - Lugovoy stream - Svetloe lake - Tushkanchik river - Usinsky tract - Abakan.

Key points along the route (Google Earth): download

Preparing for a trip to Ergaki

Ergaki are famous for their beauty not only in Siberia, but throughout the country. Alpine terrain, deep trough valleys, tarns, numerous waterfalls... All this makes the trip to Ergaki a wonderful place for connoisseurs of pristine nature. It is also important that you can get to Lake Svetloye or Lake Rainbow (the starting points of most routes in Ergaki) in just 3-4 hours of trekking from the Abakan-Kyzyl road. Most of the peaks of the main Ergakov ridge exceed 2000 meters, the highest point is Zvezdny Peak (2265 m). Most of the passes have elevations exceeding 1500 m and are located in the bald belt. About 15 passes were qualified, including 4 passes 2A, 6 passes 1B kt.

In the summer of 1996, German Nikolayevich Babushkin gathered a group for a hike in Lake Baikal. But due to a number of circumstances, the trip to Baikal had to be postponed to the next year, and I was transferred to the caring hands of Vladimir Georgievich Fiofilov, who was gathering a group on Borus. However, Rimma Ivanova appeared at one of the evenings of the Zelenogorsk tourist club "Firn" and offered us another option - a trip to Ergaki, where she herself was going with her children in mid-June. That's what they decided on. Collections have begun.

The final composition of the group:

• Vladimir "Grandfather" Fiophilov - IV-ka mountain, 43 years old, leader
• Nelli Simonova - III-ka mountain, 48 years old, supply manager
• Natalya Ryabykh - III-ka mountain, 30 years old, doctor
• Dmitry Kovinov (that is, me) - no experience, 15 years old, photographer
• Sergey Rubanenko - no experience, 14 years old, remaster

A food ration was assigned. I was assigned to purchase, pack and carry throughout the trip

• three cans of stew
• a kilo of dried potatoes
• 2 kg sugar
• 1.5 kg dried smoked sausage
• three packs of jelly
• 1 kg raisins
• 1.5 kg loin
• 1 kg biscuits
• breadcrumbs from 2 loaves of bread
• 5 cans of canned fish
• 1.5 kg semolina

The result was 12.5 kg. Approximately the same, but of course other products, were the rest. Thus, our layout for this trip to Ergaki was 850 grams per person per day.

From public equipment I carried: a two-handed saw, a coil of 11 mm rope, and from personal equipment, in addition to the usual: chest harness, carabiner and tops. Plus, since my mom is a medic, I was tasked with putting together a first aid kit. The following medicines got into it: stomach pills, painkillers, pills for infectious diseases, dressings, 200 grams of medical alcohol, antiseptics and an elastic tourniquet.

It must be said that before the trip to Ergaki, I was a real "teapot". I had no experience of big hikes, and most importantly at that time, almost no hiking equipment! I had to buy a backpack, a sleeping bag and an anti-encephalitic suit that was outlandish for me.

Road to Ergaki

So, the beginning of the trip (boarding the bus on the route Zelenogorsk - Zaozernaya) was scheduled for "five thirty on Monday." On Sunday, as a conscientious tourist, I packed a backpack (it turned out to be 37 kilograms !!!), I tried to walk along the road near the house with it. Then he seemed to me not just heavy, but very heavy. Fortunately, before this trip, I walked six times with a weight of 15-20 kilograms uphill near the house (I put bricks in my backpack).

In general, on the appointed day, getting up at 4:20 in the morning, I conscientiously had breakfast and harnessed my dad to take me to the bus. Having approached the place, I found, or rather I did not find a soul from our group. In complete bewilderment, after waiting for the bus to depart, I went to the "Grandfather". A sleepy, but already clean-shaven man with bewildered expression on his face answered the doorbell. In response to his bewilderment, I began to explain to him that our bus had already left, to which I received a quite clear answer: “Dima, the train from Zaozerka is at seven in the evening !!!” Turning around, I went home and went to bed for another two hours. When my mother came home from work, she was very surprised why I was still at home. Then, without incident, we got to Zaozerka, and then to Uyar station.

New surprises began in Uyar: it turned out that the previously ordered tickets for seats on the train ended up in different cars. After a short conversation between Natasha and the cashier, everything was settled.

The train went normally, and they arrived in Abakan at 11:15 am the next day. We were lucky, and already at 12 o'clock we were sitting on the Abakan-Kyzyl bus. It should be noted that on the bus, most likely, only we were Russians, the rest were Tuvans. The bus was good - Ikarus, and we hit the road. On the way, I slept a little, but after 3 hours the MOUNTAINS began to appear. Here the whole dream was taken away as if by hand. Our bus, as it turned out, was good only in appearance.

In the village of Ermakovskoye, the bus made a big stop at a roadside cafe, where we, like almost all passengers, had a hearty lunch. Almost immediately after Ermakovsky, the road went uphill. Our Ikarus, like a donkey, was forced to stop every hour so as not to overheat. Having risen, perhaps, to the very high point the road, the belts on the engine broke and another hour-long stop followed. But despite these troubles, the impression of the mountains, visible mainly to the left of the direction of movement, was huge. I looked at some kind of “head of the Saiyan”, at a “bird”, “starry” and could not even imagine that in three or four days I myself would make my way among these peaks ...

Up the Jerboa River

Well, at five o'clock in the evening, the Jerboa River, which we have been waiting for so long, finally appeared. Not having time to get off the bus, we saw our friend, Rimma Ivanovna, who was already waiting for us. We greeted each other and went on our way. But they did not go even a hundred meters as they approached the camp. There were a lot of people from young to old: both children and adults. Some sat and talked, others joked, others fussed around the camp. After sitting in their camp, we moved up the Jerboa. I must say that at first the mood was not very good because of what we were told. Namely: "Two weeks before our arrival, just at the time of the beginning of the campaign of Rimma Ivanovna's group, it began to rain, and out of the 15 days they spent in Ergaki, it rained for 12 days." The path we were on was muddy and wet. The backpack seemed terribly heavy to me. We walked with stops every 15-20 minutes. And having passed some kind of "ant hill" we met three guys. They turned out to be members of Rimma Ivanovna's group.

We decided to spend the night at a place with a funny name "ant hill". It was my first night in a tent, and even more so in the mountains. The boys told us about the difficulties of the hike, and looked very serious and important, apparently taking us for "dummies" who do not understand anything about real hikes. In the evening they cooked dinner and sawed firewood. It was very interesting to look at the rather well-coordinated work of everyone in the camp, and I thought that I would soon know exactly what to do without outside help. On this day we walked only 4 km, but that seemed enough to me. Clean run about 1.5 hours.

Nice sunny morning. We go all the same up along the left bank of the river. About an hour later, we are blocked by a stream that flows into Jerboa. It turns out that this stream flows from Lake Svetloe. Without crossing it, we go further along the coast, quickly gaining altitude. Mountains are shown on the left. You can clearly see "Bird" and "Star" - the most famous peaks of the Ergaki ridge. We go out to a huge field, completely covered with frying and wild garlic. Let's get some for lunch. We turn left, and after 10 minutes we find ourselves on Lake Svetloe.

Meadows with wild garlic and frying near Lake Svetloe

Bazlag on Lake Svetloe

Lake Svetloe is one of the most convenient places for a base camp with a ring version of the routes. From here it is easy to get to Lake Maloye Buibinskoe, get into the valley of the Taigish River through the Lake of Mountain Spirits, or along a good path in just a couple of hours to be on Lake Zolotarnoe. It is here that we decide to set up our base camp, which will become the starting point of our three rings and one radial exit. There is warm water, a lot of space for tents, there is a lot of forest around and there are not many problems with firewood. In addition, very close to the road, and in which case, light, you can run to the road in 2 hours.

We leave right after lunch. We take with us food for 3 days, the rest in the "cast". Now we are 10 people: there are five of us and Rima with four boys. We go around Lake Svetloe on the left, not far from the shore we cross a stream along the logs, which originates here. We continue on a good path. We pass several small "rotten" lakes, and exit to the Medvezhiy key. We cross it on a thrown log, you won’t go through the ford without insurance. Alpizba stands on the right bank. We go inside - no one. Then again along the path to the Tushkanchik River. We pass into the ford, and take the path straight to the Tushkanchik pass (n / c), located to the right of the top of the Tushkanchik mountain itself, an ancient volcano with a destroyed crater.

At the hut of the Minusinsk people (they say it burned down in a couple of years)

Jerboa pass (n/c, 1700 m) - really n/c (none!) - forest, grass, in some places even a horse trail. In a word, drag. The saddle is very wide. During a smoke break, they ran closer to the top. There, from the bottom of the crater, along the inner slopes, technically difficult ascents can be made using rock climbing techniques. Then we go down to the lake Small Buibinskoye. We arrive at the place of overnight stay only at 21:30. We set up tents right on huge boulders, as this is the only dry and almost flat place in the area. In addition, in the event of a downpour, there is nothing to be afraid that water will go under the tent.

"Hanging Stone" and the Pass of Artists

In the morning we went to the "Hanging Stone" - a huge boulder on the top of the mountain, lying on the ground with only a small part, and forming a huge canopy. The name is due to the fact that this stone lies on the edge big cliff, so it seems to be hanging. Many tried to push him, but no one succeeded, this pebble is too heavy.

On the ridge near the "Hanging Stone"
Below - Lake Nizhnee Buibinskoe

"Hanging Stone" - the calling card of the Ergakovs!
Below - Lake Small Buibinskoe (Rainbow)

At 16:00 we go to the Khudozhnikov pass (1B). The ascent from the camp on Lake Maloye Buibinskoe to the pass flight took only 1.5 hours. The ascent to the pass from the Nizhnyaya Buiba river valley is very easy and takes no more than 30 minutes. On the pass we rest and admire the mountains. The pass is named so for a reason. Below is the most beautiful trough valley of the Left Taigish River. On the right you can see, resembling the blade of a bayonet shovel, Zvezdny Peak (2265 m), and a little to the left and in the distance - Dragon Tooth Peak (2176 m).

Behind the highest peaks of the Ergaki ridge: Dragon's Tooth, Starry, Bird.

The descent is quite difficult, as it passes through a loose layer of "live" stones, we descend immediately from the saddle - quite difficult. Some people recommend the following variant of descent into the Taigish river valley: not going down directly from the saddle, but climbing a little in the direction of Molodezhny peak (on the left - if you look into the Taigish river valley) to huge vertical boulders called “fingers”. There are three of them in total, you can go down between the first and second fingers, counting from the saddle. Even from the pass, I noticed that the foot of the pass was strewn with stones. Then I thought that it was good that we would not have to drag ourselves through the mud, we would jump from stone to stone. But what was my amazement when, as I approached the stones, I began to understand their real dimensions more and more clearly. The passage of the stone platform, which, as I thought, standing on the pass, would take about five minutes, actually took half an hour.

Having overcome the stones, some of which were the size of a 3 or even a five-story house, two hours after the start of the descent, we found ourselves on a small, dry, elevated place, 500 meters short of Lake Khudozhnikov. We set up camp.

Pass of Artists from the parking lot "Dream"

The evening was wonderful. Looking back, I realized how great the scale of things created by nature. Huge boulders in front, giant mountain ranges to the left and right, a lake and a stream behind. All this creates a feeling of something unearthly, not something that a person who has lived all his life in the cramped back streets of the city gets used to.

The sun began its path to the horizon and the camp became quiet and quiet. And in such a huge place, constrained on all sides, there was such a silent, unusual silence for a person, which was interrupted only by one very melodic ringing of a stream running nearby, which began its long journey to the Yenisei here. You will involuntarily think: “Isn't this an ideal place for human life? A place where there is no fuss, no quarrels, no fleeting desires. A place where you would like to truly relax, a place where you would like to be in the moment of the highest happiness!

But let's get back to mundane matters... While the porridge was being cooked, we made a sortie into the hut, with a strange name for a person who found himself here immediately after visiting some restaurant or supermarket called "Dream". The dream turned out to be nothing more than a small depression in a huge boulder and boarded up on one side. It was rather dark inside, but we could still see a large notebook lying on a wooden table. They brought it to the camp and only there they saw that it was nothing more than a "book of visitors". It was covered with many different wishes that different travelers left in it. We left a note too.

After dinner, we sat by the fire for a long time, "grassing" jokes on a variety of topics.

Parking lot "Dream"

16:15 – Departure from the camp
17:45 - the beginning of the ascent to the pass
18:00 - 20:15 - descent from the pass
20:45 - camp at the lake of Artists.

Valley of Mountain Spirits - Bird Pass - Svetloe Lake

After breakfast, the usual gatherings began, which consist in the fact that everyone runs around the camp and looks for their things scattered before. Since then there were still a lot of us (10 people!), The preparations were delayed. But at 11 o'clock we rushed to storm the Parabola. The Parabola Pass is a depression between two peaks created by nature according to the canons of geometry.

Having passed along the kurumnik, we clung to the Eastern Brother and then, along the small shelf located on it west side climbed the Parabola. The path was not dangerous, but in some places the ledge was rather narrow and steep, so that in order not to fall, one sometimes had to grab the roots and branches of the trees growing on the ledge with one's hands. Climbing the Parabola pass, I was literally stunned!

Everything told about some Valley of Mountain Spirits and the lake of the same name turned out to be just a description of paradise from a person who has only two words in his vocabulary ... Valley of Mountain Spirits is perhaps the most beautiful place on the ground of all that I have seen before. It is a valley surrounded on three sides by majestic steep cliffs and a lake between them. The very shape of the lake resembles a footprint of a barefoot giant who created these unique mountains. The most interesting thing is that from the height of the Parabola Pass, the dimensions of this lake really seem to be equal to the size of a human foot.

Upon returning from the top, right on the pass, we had a light picnic. The menu consisted of water that we brought with us, diluted this water with Invite (which is “just add water”), bread (then we still had more or less non-stale bread), lard, boiled pork and canned fish. After a snack, we set off on our way.

After walking quite a bit, it started to rain. The first rain since our stay in Ergaki. Having pulled on capes, we huddled together near a sheer cliff. After sitting for about 20 minutes, we felt that the rain had ended and moved on. After walking quite a bit, we came to a snowfield. Throwing away our backpacks at lightning speed, we indulged in carefree fun: we began to ride on this snowfield on seats, and someone just on the priest. Then it seemed that the best attraction in the world! Snow in the middle of summer. Blimey!!!

After a little rest after the races on the snowfield, we moved up to Pass Bird(1A, 2097 m). The ascent was not difficult at all, apart from the danger of falling off in two or three places and getting hit on the head by a stone that your friend had inadvertently moved, who, by chance, turned out to be above you. Climbing the pass and having a little rest, we decide to climb the "Bird's Shoulder". The ascent was very easy, and at five o'clock in the evening we were at an altitude of about 2150 meters!!!

On the "shoulder" of Ptitsa peak. Behind - Zerkalny Peak, Molodyozhny Peak and Sleeping Sayan

Having thoroughly enjoyed the height and the views of the Sayans opening in all directions, we moved down to the camp on Lake Svetloye, from which we left the day before yesterday afternoon. From the top, it seemed that it was very close to him. Less than an hour later, a fierce downpour fell upon us. Taking out our capes, we hid under them like turtles in a shell and sat quietly and waited for the downpour to end. Sat there for half an hour...

Although it was not long before our base camp, the most difficult, as it turned out, was yet to come. Moving almost constantly only down, we risked finding ourselves on wet ground. From fatigue, the legs buzzed, attention weakened, and the group members continually landed on the “fifth point”. Dirty, wet, slippery...

But slowly and surely we were approaching the lake, which I renamed the Lake of Hope. So I wanted to quickly dry and relax. Having passed a small swamp in the eastern part of the lake, at eight o'clock in the evening we reached our base camp on Lake Svetloye.

Even without changing into dry clothes, everyone fussed. "Grandfather" and I went for a drop. Seryoga and Natalya began to build a fire from wet branches. It was hard, but I had to work. Quite quickly and harmoniously, we achieved that in an hour and a half the fire was burning, the tents were standing, the food was cooking ...

It was our farewell party. Rimma Ivanovna and the guys were going home the next day. The adults drank some goodbye. This day was perhaps one of the three most difficult days of this trip.

11:10 - Departure from the camp
11:50 - Parabola. Climbing East Brother Peak ()
13:55 – start of the descent to the Valley of Mountain Spirits
14:40 - 14:50 - fun at the snowfield
16:20 – pass, ascents to the “shoulder” of Ptitsa peak
17:50 - start of the descent
20:05 - camp on Lake Svetloe.

Day at Svetly

The most boring day ever. It rained almost non-stop all day. They lay in a tent. They played cards, wrote diaries, studied maps of the area. Seryozhka saw Rimma Ivanovna and the boys down to the road.

Super day: trans. Star - lane. Spicy - trans. Vidovka

Day of Ivan Kupala. In the morning I carefully get out of the tent - if only no one doused it! But everything was dry! After breakfast, we were on our way. The day was planned to be the most difficult (approximately so it turned out!). Our planned route for today did not look bad - three passes per day, while one of them was a specific "two a". So, with great zeal, after yesterday's camping in tents, we moved up. After walking for 40 minutes, we decided to rest and drink. That's where it all started! I don’t remember who started first, but after a minute we were all equally wet from head to toe!

Having dried up, we start from the foot of the pass right in the forehead. From the side of the ascent, the slope is very simple and without incident we climbed to the pass. An amazing panorama of the Brothers, the Lake of Spirits and the valley of the Taigish River opened from it. Everything was nice until I looked straight down, directly where we were going to go down.

Here, unexpectedly for myself, I felt a very strong desire to eat. Imperceptibly, in a couple of minutes, I consumed my entire daily ration, which, according to the plan, should have been enough for three or four hours. The descent from the pass, in principle, was not so difficult. And it was possible to do even without ropes, but we played it safe. The descent in the most difficult part of the pass took us 2.5 hours and three ropes.

Zvezdny Peak (on the left), Zvezdny Pass (the closest couloir to Zvezdny Peak) and Ptitsa Peak. View from Lake of Mountain Spirits

Having rested and calmed down (this is me to myself), we continued the descent. We descended to the Lake of Spirits, walked along its shore and at the northeastern tip made a halt for lunch. Noodles, sausage, crackers and ice cream for dessert. Personally, I didn’t really like it, but just in case, the recipe is: “a can of condensed milk is taken and mixed with fresh (if there is no fresh, then the old one will do) snow.”

While some comrades, for a sweet soul, ate this mountain dessert, I preferred to wait until the snow melted and, mixed with condensed milk, became just cold milk. It took about an hour for lunch. We traversed a side spur and came to a platform from which a very scenic view. Not wanting to lose height, we began to move in a traverse towards the Pikantny pass.

So, without descending into the valley, we continued on our way. But it turned out that we could not avoid the descent, as we reached the sheer cliffs. Having descended to the bottom of the valley, completely laid with huge boulders, we moved up. The path was quite exhausting, as we had to constantly jump from one boulder to another. It’s good that we only have two backpacks for five, and we carry them in turn.

The path was quite exhausting, but then a pass appeared in the distance, and having gathered all our strength, we made a forced march. And what was our surprise when, instead of the desired pass, we found ourselves only at the terminal moraine of the already disappeared glacier. The moraine created a dam and several small lakes appeared at once in the resulting basin.

Now we clearly saw our target, it was even 200 meters higher! Serega, having broken during a smoke break, rushed to the assault. We went without haste. I will say right away that it took us another 1.5 hours to climb, to the pass from the moraine.

Bypassing the lake on the left, we went straight to the pass, which looked rather menacing. But, going up to the foot, we saw snow (after all, it was the northern slope). I began to climb right in the footsteps of Seryoga. Serega, without thinking about the group, just ran to the pass. Therefore, I had to literally knock out the steps with the toe of my boot. Having risen quite easily, we saw Seryoga there, who immediately received a decent thrashing from Uncle Vova for separating from the group.

Since time was running out, we rested for only five minutes and started descending towards the third pass of today - the Vidovka pass. Here, either from fatigue or vice versa, from joy that we succeeded in the most difficult part of the route, everyone cheered up: for about 20 minutes we walked and did not stop laughing, singing and telling all sorts of funny stories right on the go ... However, as soon as the descent ended and the ascent began, good mood as never before. The ascent was not so easy. We are pretty tired today!

Slowly but surely we climbed up. Right behind was the beautiful lake Zolotarnoye. At 20:15 we reached the pass. Although it was still far from darkness, the camp on Svetloye was even further away, which became our real home.

Having rested at the rock "Elephant" - a remnant on the Vidovka pass - we began the descent, as usual, comrade Natasha cheered up again. The descent was quite difficult and consisted of dense bushes. The speed of walking dropped very much, and only by 11 o'clock we reached the camp and quickly, before it got dark, we began to make a fire and put up tents. That day we sat by the fire for a very long time, until two in the morning. True, at about midnight, Seryoga went to bed, and Comrade Natasha and I stayed by the fire. She told me a couple of legends about the Sayans.

It was one of the three most difficult days. Although we walked only 13 kilometers on the map, the feeling was all fifty!

9:30 am – Departure from the camp
11:45 - Star Pass (2A, 1950 m.)
12:15 - 14:35 - descent from the pass
15:30 - 16:40 - lunch at the Lake of Mountain Spirits
18:20 - moraine under Pikantny pass
19:50 – 20:15 Pikantny pass (1B, 1850 m.)
21:45 - Vidovka pass (1A, 1700 m.)
23:00 – camp near Svetloe lake

Radial ride to Jerboa waterfall

Of course, after such a load, as on the previous day, the human body needs rest, and we (more precisely, our commander) decided to arrange a day. The sun shone all day and the weather was wonderful, but that was the only day I regretted going on a 16 day hike. It would take a week...

But after dinner, my stomach suddenly got very sick (the only ailment for the whole trip). On this day, we cooked jelly from any "pasture" (rhubarb, etc.). perhaps because of this rather tasty jelly, my stomach got sick ... I didn’t take any pills, although they were, but just lay on the rug in the shade, curled up in a ball.

On this day, guests visited our camp: a woman and a guy about eighteen years old. I was immediately struck by their manner of communication with each other. They were talking almost like yard guys. But Comrade Nelya knew this woman. At first we talked a little about everything, but then, having learned that we were going to the waterfall, the woman calmed down a bit. Here she began her long, and sometimes even terrible story. She spoke for a long time, but the meaning of what was said was this:

All climbers know the legend about the black climber. The black climber is some kind of person who seems to have died, as I understand it, something like a zombie who walks through the mountains at night and can easily pass even the most difficult sections.

So, this very black climber walks in the mountains and sometimes looks into the tents of tourists. There is a legend that says that if a climber or any tourist in the mountains saw a black climber, this means his imminent death.

She told for quite a long time, and even my hair stood on end, although I tried not to believe in her stories ... Now, when I write this diary, I no longer remember how this woman moved on to another, even more terrible topic. Undoubtedly, having the talent of a skillful storyteller, she began her story with the fact that a boy in their group fell ill. According to her, the boy is an experienced hiker, and that nothing like this has ever happened to him. She told us that just not far from the Jerboa waterfall, which we were going to, or rather, right by the lake from which the waterfall originates, there is some kind of hut - not some kind of cave in which some then a sorcerer (according to her - a hermit). It turned out that shortly before the illness of this boy (who had terrible headaches), he was at this lake. No one dared even come close to the hermit's dwelling, and this guy allegedly even went there. And according to her story, when he returned to the camp, he became very ill.

Ordering us strongly and firmly not to even come close to the hermit's dwelling, she, after saying goodbye to us, went with her companion to her camp, which was located, like ours, on the banks of the Svetloye, but about a hundred meters to the west. In parting, she said that tomorrow she and two guys would take the sick guy to the Minusinsk hospital. After she left, my heart felt a little better. Too bad I didn't like her...

But the stomach still hurt, and our group was still going to the waterfall, which was only 4-5 kilometers away. But the desire to miss a valuable shot overcame the pain in my stomach, and barely getting up, lightly, I went along with everyone to the waterfall.

Having reached the waterfall without much adventure, I still endured the pain. The waterfall was really beautiful. The height reached 12 meters. The weather was sunny, and we decided to swim in the icy stream of the waterfall. Having undressed to swimming trunks, Seryoga and I climbed up to where the water was falling. But in the middle of the height, in one of the steps of the waterfall, we saw a rather deep pocket formed from the fall of the water. After a little thought, I still plucked up the courage and plunged about up to my neck into icy water ...

In the first second, my heart almost stopped. But after a while, breathing began to quicken. Without sitting in the water and 3-5 seconds, I jumped out on dry stones. The effect was amazing! All the pain in my stomach went away instantly! Warmed up a little, and already with more courage, I again plunged into an ice bath. Again, breathing quickened to 2-3 breaths per second, but it was great. A few minutes later, all of us, with the exception of Seryoga, took contrast baths. After waiting a bit, Seryoga also decided. After five minutes of procedures, we settled down on the barn to dry.

Once dry, we headed back to camp. On the way back, we already stopped for an hour in an alp hut, where Grandfather's acquaintances from the Minusinsk Alp Club were. As I understand it, this time there were good guys in their camp. Their leader told us that they are going to Ptitsa and Zvezdny one of these days!

Having treated ourselves to free sweets and tea, we continued on our way. In half an hour we were in the camp on Svetly, which had already become our home.

16:00 - exit to the waterfall
17:45 - 18:15 - waterfall
20:00 - camp (with a 40-minute stop at the hut)

Lake Zolotarnoye - Zeleny pass

Having had lunch in the morning (that is, having breakfast), we were preparing for the third, final and largest ring with a planned five nights (later it turned out that six would be needed). As soon as we began to collect things, the guys from the neighboring camp passed by our camp in an easterly direction. They, like us, went to the Golden Lake. But since we were not yet ready, they went on without us.

At 11 o'clock we were finally ready and went after them. Having rounded the ridge and Mount Vidovka, we came to the lake. After 1.5 hours we came to the lake on which the guys were already standing. Some of them drank condensed milk from cans - a sight that was unbearable for me then because we did not have so much tasty food. I went to the lake. There, having rolled up my trousers, we sat with Seryoga on the stones.

Having rested, at 13:30 we left the lake in the direction of the Vostochny Pass, and our “competitors” were going to conquer the Pikantny Pass, which we had passed two days earlier, but from the opposite, more difficult side.

As soon as we approached the foot of the pass, I suddenly (for the second time) had a stomach ache. I quickly “went down the seal”, but the pain never went away. I said nothing and silently climbed to the pass. It was pretty hard. And so the pass is viscous, arable, and even the stomach hurts! But somehow I still climbed to the pass, on which there was a huge boulder-remnant, in the shade of which we settled down for a halt.

After finishing a 1.5 liter bottle of water for five people, eating a piece of cheese and sausage and eating it with five (one for each) sweets, I suddenly noticed that my stomach did not hurt, and finally I could carefully study the surroundings. And they were really beautiful: far ahead was a lake that looked like two man-made pools. One of which was twice the size of the other. This whole lake was called Bezrybnoye, on which, they say, good fish is found!

At half past five we started to go down. This pass (Green) was one of the easiest of those that we climbed during this trip, only 1A. Going down to the very foot, we saw an amazing picture on the left: like giant towers, there were three majestic peaks. Between which narrow gaps were barely visible - passes. A little lower and to the left was a very beautiful waterfall, which, unfortunately, we never went to.

At first we wanted to set up camp right next to the stream, which, like an unbroken horse, jumped over the stones. But noticing a small dry mound with a forest a hundred meters below, we moved there.

While dinner was cooking, I decided to temper myself a little, as the day turned out to be very hot. I went down from the hillock, on which we set up camp to the stream at its foot, no more than a meter wide and knee-deep. Having undressed to swimming trunks, I completely plunged into this icy stream. At first, I was almost struck by a cold blow, but after suffering a little, I got out of the water and settled on a stone under the evening, but still scorching sun. I repeated this operation three times, after which I returned to the camp.

After dinner, everyone went about their business. "Grandfather" with Comrade Natasha, as usual, cut themselves into "balda". Its meaning lies in the fact that the players have in front of them a square of 8x8 cells with one word inscribed horizontally there. Then, in turn, each player writes a letter there so that a new one is obtained, as many as possible. long word. For each word, points are given at the rate of one letter of the word - one point. Having tried to play "balda" with the aces, I soon realized that there was nothing for me here. That evening, Aunt Nelya and I sat around the fire over various camping stories and legends.

11:10 - left the camp
13:50 – start climbing the pass
15:00 - 16:20 - per. Green (1A)
17:00 - camp

Radial boat to Lake Bezrybnye

On this day, "because of the beauty of these places." But having spent more than a week in the mountains, it was unusual for us to sit all day in tents, especially in such good weather. After breakfast, at 12 o'clock, we went to Lake Bezrybnoe. The path was quite easy and in a little less than an hour we were on the stone shore of the lake. As usual, I quickly took off my socks, rolled up my trousers and put my feet in the water. This simple procedure surprisingly well relaxes tired leg muscles.

After sitting on the rocks for a while (and “grandfather” and Comrade Natasha even swam), we began to prepare a small dinner. It was quiet and we noticed that two ducks were swimming on the calm surface of the lake. Taking out binoculars, we watched these wild and fearless animals for half an hour. They swam so close that we could even see them with the naked eye. It was immediately clear that these birds had not yet heard the shots of guns and human voices.

Having rested, we decided to walk to the isthmus between the two halves of the lake. Larch trees grew on the isthmus and I chopped off a piece of resin from the tree. At first it was rather bitter, but then it became nothing. The only thing is that the jaws get very tired of sulfur.

We returned to the camp and fell asleep as usual.

12:00 - leaving the camp
12:50 - 17:00 - rest on the lake Bezrybnoe
17:45 – camp

Twins West Pass

After breakfast, at 9:50 we leave the camp in a northerly direction. Before us is an unusual wall of three huge peaks resembling towers medieval castle. We are going to the middle pass - Western Twins (1B). The ascent is simple, and after an hour of walking, at 10:50 we are near the pass tour. We take another note, leave our own.

At 11:05 we begin our descent along a narrow, rather steep couloir. Here, perhaps, you can’t do without a rope, although you can pass in a thrust. The rope can only come in handy in two sections, 8 and 5 meters. We climbed them with a rappel with a top belay, the belayer free climbed these sections. In just 45 minutes we were having lunch under the pass. After a 2-hour lunch, we decide to move on, but after five minutes we come across a place suitable for spending the night, and decide not to go anywhere else, and at 14:00 we set up a tent on the left bank of the Ledyanoy stream near a small lake.

On the left - East Twins Pass (2A), in the center - West Twins (1B), on the right - Vysotsky Pass (2A).

9:50 - leaving the camp
10:50 - 11:05 - pass
14:00 - camp

Time off at Ledyanoe Lake

For 40 minutes of walking without backpacks, we went to Ledyanoe Lake. It's a pity that the visibility was poor, and in the afternoon there was a tedious drizzle, and the rest of the day we sat in tents. Fifteen years later, Mikhail Popov perfectly conveyed the fantastic beauty of this lake in his photographs!

Climbing the Peak of Dragon's Tooth

We decide to climb the Dragon's Tooth (2176 m, 1A). We leave the camp at 10:35 and go down the Ice Creek. At 11:20 we get up in front of the "second glass", leave our backpacks under the stones and at 11:45, taking a snack and water with us, we begin to climb.

The ascent to the summit consisted of three sections of different character. The first one is with large boulders mixed with trees, and is quite steep. The second is more gentle, overgrown only with moss and wild rosemary. And the third is almost without vegetation cover, rather steep and rocky. An excellent peak to see the entire Ergaki ridge, and to climb it you don’t need anything but your legs and head. The ascent in total took less than 2 hours, and by 13:30 the group was at the top. The peak, with its southeastern slope, abruptly breaks into the lake, forming just a huge 400-meter cliff, which even has a negative slope in its upper part!

From left to right: Natasha, Sergey, Neli Vyacheslavovna and me.
Behind - Zvezdny Peak and Ptitsa Peak!

10:35 - leaving the camp
13:30 - 15:05 - pass
18:00 - camp

Bundle Zharki pass - Vostochny pass

We got up early, because the pass we saw yesterday in all its "glory" was to be terribly long. And so it turned out. Leaving the camp at 9:50, we went straight ahead. It is quite difficult to walk, as there are many trees, the slope is rather steep in places. We walked at this pace: 30 minutes of rise - 10 minutes of rest. Little by little, at 11:50 we approached the pass tour. In the removed note we read: “A group of tourists from …. ... climbed the Zharki pass ... ".

Indeed, during the ascent, we were somewhat carried away by traversing, and went a little to the right than necessary. This was confirmed by the fact that Bezrybnye lakes were visible from the pass. By traverse of the ridge we crossed to the saddle Vostochny pass(1A), thereby making a saddle ligament. At 13:15 we started the descent, which turned out to be somewhat harder than the ascent, mainly due to the unusually hot weather, in the shade it was at least 30 degrees.

On the border of the forest, we went out to a very beautiful lake and decided to have a big dinner. The time was 14:35. The water in the lake turned out to be unusually warm, which is why the rest lasted until 17:00. What follows is a rather difficult section. There is a lot of tall grass, stones are not visible at all, and fir trees do not really contribute to fast movement. But we must pay tribute to the leader, who led us exactly to the lake. The time was 18:25. We walked a little along the lake, and spent the night on a rather long cape overgrown with forest, which we often visit, as there are a lot of fire pits and, sorry for the word, garbage.

9:50 - leaving the camp
11:50 - 13:15 - pass
18:25 – camp

Lake Buibinskoe - Lake Svetloe

One of the hardest days of the trip. In the morning we swam a little, the water is quite warm, and left only at 12:40. We immediately went along a good path right along the lake. We quickly reached the southern end of the lake. We went into a fishing hut, standing right next to the water. There was no one there, but there were crackers, salt and bread. It is immediately obvious that this place is quite often visited.

Then we just walked along a very cool horse trail along the Verkhnyaya Buiba River, since there was not a cloud in the sky for the last 3 days, the trail was more like an asphalt path. But, having walked along such a path for about two hours, they began to notice that the paths began to diverge, and therefore deteriorate. We walked for another half an hour, and turned sharply to the right, straight into the forest. It turned out that they turned off successfully, and after 30 minutes they reached the Lugovoy stream. At 3:50 p.m. we got up for lunch. They ate saury, bread, sweets, halva, apricots, prunes. So many because of the last day of the hike, not to bring food back. At 16:45 we went further, immediately crossed into a ford, and further along the same horse path up along the right bank of the Lugovoy stream.

Approximately two hours later we came to the hut, quite large and strong. There was no one inside, but it is clear that shepherds live here. Move on. At about 20:15 we came to the confluence of two streams. They didn’t immediately cross, but went along the same right bank. After 100 meters, we still cross this stream, since it is simply not possible to go. Mosquitoes appeared from somewhere, so many that I had to get the repellent lying around as unnecessary at the bottom of the backpack. After walking for another 30 minutes, we realized that we had gone more to the left than necessary. With penultimate strength, we sharply climb the hill, which is very close, and we understand that we didn’t go along the right stream in vain. We descend directly into the water meadows behind Lake Svetloe. At 21:30 we finally reached the base camp. They quickly ran for a drop (it turned out that chipmunks or mice gnawed through plastic bags and pretty much pulled out halva and gingerbread).

12:40 - Departure from the camp on Lake Buibinskoe
21:30 – camp on Lake Svetloe

Exit to the Usinsky tract and return home

During the day they collected things, dried, washed. After lunch we had a festive dinner. Celebrated my birthday. I turned 16. Suddenly, such a strong hailstorm broke out, which I have never seen before. Some hailstones reached 1.5 cm in diameter! Some of ours were not left without bruises on their heads, since even a hoba did not save them from hailstones.

The hail lasted about 20 minutes. During this time, the pot in which the soup was a little less than half was filled to the brim with the purest mountain hail. Everything changed instantly. Nothing could be known. A layer of hail covered literally everything with a layer NOT LESS THAN 15 CM! After the end of the hail, the mountains simply rumbled, overflowing streams boiled, in some places small mudflows descended.

After that, they tried to start a fire for a long time. It was possible after 30 minutes, and even then only because they accidentally found dry twigs under a stone.

Having cast the last glance at the "Ptitsa" and "Zvezdny", at 18:45 we headed back. At first, we had to walk literally on the water, since the snow melted instantly, the earth did not have time to absorb such a huge amount. At 21:45 we arrived at the asphalt road, the first flat surface in the last 15 days.

The next day, at 12 o'clock, we got on the bus, and in the evening - on the train, and in the morning of the next day we were at home.

18:45 - leaving the camp
21:45 - Usinsky tract

Akaban - oh. Karovoe — radial on hanging stone and rock Nut - pass of Artists- about. Artists - radial on about. Malachite Bath - Colored Lakes - Mt. Dragon Tooth (2176m)- about. Mountain Spirits - pass Bird (1A, 2097m)- about. Light - Elephant Rocks- * Dinosaur Peak - r. Jerboa - Akaban

Day 1. Abakan

The meeting and collection of the group takes place at the Abakan railway station. We distribute the public cargo and food for all participants. Then we load things into the transport and go to the beginning of the route - to the Tarmazakovskiy bridge. We will walk 8 km from the bridge and camp for the night.

In the evening we go to the radial exit to the Hanging Stone and Oreshek Rock. Giant-sized fragments of rocks carried by the glacier are visible on the peaks and slopes. This is how the famous piece of rock, weighing about 600 tons, hung on the edge of a cliff. The area of ​​its contact with the plane is no more than a square meter. Surprisingly, the Hanging Stone cannot be moved by either long-term weathering processes or regular earthquakes. Many legends are associated with him.

Day 2. Lake of Artists

Today our goal is the pass and lake of Artists. We leave early in the morning. We go to the picturesque Lake of Artists, located directly under the Parabola Pass (Lower Parabola, 1750 m). Our path will climb to the pass of Artists. Its height is 1926 meters. The lake fascinates with its mirror-like surface. And the reflections of stone ledges and trees growing on them give a special charm. You can't leave here without taking beautiful photos.

By the lake we set up tents in the campsite and have a rest.

Kilometer: 7 km.

Day 3. Malachite bath

After long journeys, we rightfully deserved a rest. However, if you wish, you can make an easy radial exit to the waterfall of Artists and to the lake Malachite bath.

The lake got its name due to the fact that it lies in the rocky depression of the Taigish river bed, surrounded by taiga on all sides. The lake is almost constantly in the shade of cedars, giving its surface an unusual shade. Added to this is the optical effect that occurs when the depth changes. On the one hand, a waterfall from the Lake of Artists flows into the Malachite Bath with noisy jets.

Day 4: Dragon Tooth

Today our goal is to conquer the Dragon's Tooth Peak. We get up early in the morning and make a radial exit to the majestic peak. Dragon's Tooth is the highest (2176 m) and at the same time the most accessible of the Ergak peaks. Both the most difficult routes and simple ones are laid to it. On the way we will visit very beautiful Colored Lakes. After the ascent, we return back to the camp. We stay overnight.

Distance: 15 km.

Day 5. Bird Pass

Today we leave the Lake of Artists and go to Lake Svetloe. We will conquer the high, but not very difficult Ptitsa pass (2097 meters (1A)), we will go to one of the main attractions of Ergak - Lake Svetloe. It is as if cordoned off by a dense cedar-spruce forest, climbing gentle mountains, over which two peaks rushed up - the Bird and the Star. The waters of Svetloye were chosen by black-throated loons. If you have the strength and desire, then you can climb the Ptitsa peak - 2221 m. We will spend the night on the picturesque coast. On the way, we will visit the Little Brother rock and climb to the Lake of Mountain Spirits - the highest and deepest lake in the Ergaki ridge. It is difficult to find such grandeur and all-consuming beauty of mountains and water anywhere else. The parabola will especially amaze you.

Let's go: 7 km.

Day 6. Elephant Rocks

Radially we go to the Rocks-Elephants, on the way we will climb to the top of Mount Vidovka, from where we will see Lake Zolotarnoye. There will be a magnificent panorama of Zvezdny Peak (the highest point of Ergak) and Dinosaur Peak. We spend the night on the familiar shore of the Light.

Distance: 8 km.

Day 7 Reserve (or Dinosaur Peak)

Given the complexity of the Yegrakov relief, climbing the passes is possible only in good weather. Therefore, the instructor reserves this day in reserve. If the weather allows us to complete the entire route according to plan, today we will climb Dinozavr Peak. You will have to climb a steep slope, but the panoramas that we will see there are worth it. Next, we will walk to the “Dinosaur Head” and descend to Zolotarny. We will return to the tents late in the evening and are completely tired - the transition is long, and the area is rather swampy.

Kilometer: 18 km.

Day 8. Return home

We pack up early and head back.

Let's go to the road along the Jerboa River. Returning to civilization, we will load into transport and leave for home. But the "lake" country and the bizarre outlines of rocks in the Western Sayans will leave an indelible mark on your heart.

Distance: 8 km.