Mount Kush Kai. Mount Kush-Kaya in Crimea: picturesque views of Laspi Bay and Cape Aya. Great Sevastopol Trail
Area
Place
Crimea, South Coast, from Batiliman to Cape Aya.
Time
The best time is May holidays or October.
Transfer
By train to Sevastopol, then by minibus-taxi to Batiliman. To catch a profitable transport, spin around railway station and within 15 minutes everything will be formed by itself. You can also get there by regular bus. From the bus station (it is located next to the railway station) there are regular buses to Yalta, Simeiz, Alupka. Drive to the village of Laspi. Further (about 5 km) either by hitchhiking or on foot. If you are located at the main parking lots near Kush-Kaya, then go to the pump booth (it stands on the right side of the road, the Batiliman recreation center is located below), it is located a little before the fork in the road to the Cape Aya sanatorium and the Chaika sanatorium
Where to stand and how to live
The best parking place by the sea is not far from the so-called "Midiya", the landmark is the "Recreation Site" with cafes to the left of the road. Here you unload and go down from the site along a wide path in the direction of the building with antennas. From it to the left, along the coast, look for a free area and set up camp. Then it’s worth taking a walk in the opposite direction from the building with antennas and making yourself known at the Forest Cordon. Here you will be assigned a price for accommodation and, after a moderate payment, they will stop bothering you with daily visits of foresters. Clean water is collected at the cordon, garbage is collected in containers next to the Forest Cordon. You can also live right under the mountain. On both sides of the trail running along Kush-Kai, there are many parking lots above the road. Water can be taken on the territory of the boarding house "m. Aya". One source is located 50 meters from the entrance to the sanatorium (it sometimes dries up by May), the second is located on the beach of the sanatorium - a pipe with fresh water comes out in the area of the first breakwater.
Helpful information
Mobile communication on the entire coast works perfectly.
The telephones of the "Forest Cordon" and the Sevastopol KSO may come in handy. It would not be superfluous to know the phone number of the boarding house on "Aya", but there people are non-contact and people with ropes are not welcome.
climbing objects
If we conditionally divide the massif Cape Aya - Kush-Kaya into sectors, then sector 1 includes routes to the top of the Aya massif, which is bounded by the sea from the west, and the Samodeda route 6 k.t. All routes in this part are difficult and long. The next sector - sector 2, stretched from Samoded to the western part of Kush-Kai. Sector 3 starts from the western slope of Kush-Kaya to the South Ridge, which divides Kush-Kaya in two. Sector 4 from the South Ridge to the eastern slopes of Kush-Kai.
Sector 1 (m. Aya)
Sector 2 (m. Aya)
Sector 3
Sector 4
Approaches
Most of the routes in this sector start from the so-called "gray cup", which is formed by the rocks to the east of the South Ridge. A large yellow spot stands out in the lower right part of the cup - the “yellow wall”. Approaches originate from the "Recreation area", then along the road towards Laspi to the post with a road sign on the left? along the way. Here is the exit to the trail, go taking away to the left under the rocky gorge with a platform. From the site to the right upwards through simple rocks 20-30 m to an obvious, trodden path with a path up to a convenient platform under monolithic simple gray rocks. Here it is recommended to contact - the first pitch to the field at the base of the gray cup. From here, choose directions for routes in accordance with the descriptions.
Descent from Kush-Kai
The best landmark is the ruins of the Church of St. Elijah at the top. From the top along the path, going around the ruins on the left, down, keeping to the main path, get to the Sevastopol-Yalta highway in the area of the pass. Here you will find several cafes and a restaurant where you can have a bite to eat. For further descent, you need to return 500 m to the exit from the trail to the highway and start descending along the old highway. The entrance to the highway is blocked by a barrier with a "brick". If you do not enter the pass, you can turn off the path to the right earlier, but it is better to do this with a knowledgeable guide. An even shorter path is the "Monkey Trail", to the right of the Asymptote. The beginning of the trail is "caught" on the treeless part of the yayla about 20 meters from the edge of the cliff. The trail goes at first goes through the open space, in the area of the exit from the "Asymptote" it dives into the forest. Keep all the time the most trodden and great path. It goes all the time in a small distance from the ever-lowering wall of Kush-kai. In two places of 5-7 meters "monkey" - a simple climbing down the rocks. At the bottom, the trail crosses twice old road, move down to the current Laspi-Aya highway. After the rain - ATTENTION - steep slippery clay slopes!
Climbing objects
Sector "Africa"
Sector "Petrel"
Sources:
- Solomentsev Valentin
- Yurkin Alex
On Kush-kaya - a mountain that is nearby
with the famous bay of Laspi,
Valery Viktorovich, my friend and partner in photo travel, and I decided to run away for the night,
in order to capture in the photo the rising of the full moon over the rocks of Ilyas-Kaya.
In addition, Valera wanted to shoot this sunrise using the
time-lapse photography - timelapse - Valerino's new hobby.
We were almost lucky with the weather - on the eve of all the clouds dissipated and
even slightly warmer. We drove a little further
Laspinsky observation deck And...
1.
and a little further - four hundred meters - from the exit of the old Batiliman road. Leaving the car at the barrier,
moved along the path, past the pine forest. The entrance to this trail is barely visible.
The path along it will be more authentic than from the batilimanka, but it suited us with a relatively gentle angle of ascent,
as well as the opportunity to leisurely admire the beauty of spring mountain-forest flowers. 
2.
Valera always takes with her a bunch of equipment for photo and video filming, and even all sorts of camping personal belongings.
Sometimes stuffed up to 40 kilos. Valera easily solved this problem. His "know how" can be seen in the picture.
While walking, we came up with a couple more solutions for transferring backpacks from one point to another. We will implement...
True, some additional funds will be needed. If anyone wants to help, we will not refuse. 
3.
It's still not easy... 
4.
I had to stop to catch my breath... 
5. and admire forest flowers. 
6.
7.
Forest peonies. 
6.
8.
No matter how much the path winds, it's all the same - it will rest against something. Here the path met with a large forest
road and the crossing point is indicated by tiny tours. 
9.
To the right of the road is a fence. This is to protect the numerous inhabitants of local forests - a busy highway passes nearby. 
10.
We looked at another observation deck for the subject of shooting. 
11.
To our left - to the top of Kush-kai. The path on the right led to Kokiya-kaya and further - along the markers - to Balaklava. 
12.
Finally on the "bald spot" Kush-kai 
13.
14.
Local rock flora... 
15.
and fauna. 
16.
17.
18.
Gorgeous views of the sea, Ilyas-Kaya. Below, below us - Batiliman. 
19.
Here, below us, is also Batiliman, and you can see the unfinished construction of a dacha who has not completed his term of office
fourth president of Ukraine. The scale of the building resembles the famous Foros dacha. God,
some kind of fatal inevitability in four words: Crimea, president, dacha, end. You guys be careful with dachas in the Crimea... 
20.
Opposite, to the east is the Donguz Orun ridge. Left - Eagle. And under the clouds, in the distance, Ai-Petrinsky "balls" are visible. 
21. Laspi Bay. Here the most transparent water. 
22.
While Valera was preparing the equipment for further work, I decided to walk to Kokiya-kaya and further - to Cape Aya - to photograph the "Lost World" from above 
23.
Found fellow travelers. Great guys, tourists from Simferopol - Oksana and Vadim. All the way we shared our impressions
about past adventures in the Crimea, admiring the surrounding views and forest flowers along the way. 
24.
Those structures are the goal of my easy walk. Only 2.5 km up-down-up. And then the same way back. 
25.
And again peonies in the forest. I have never seen so many forest peonies in my life.... 
26.
27.
We got to the place. There are some dilapidated buildings. Looks like caponiers. Looks like it's been used before
for protection from uninvited guests. Behind Sevastopol, Balaklava. 
28.
Wandered all over the viewing area. 
29.
30.
31. Cape Fiolent. 
32. Sevastopol. The balaclava is hidden, as the military says, behind the folds of the terrain. 
33.
34.
The same "Lost World". It is located in such a way that it can only be seen from above, from the rocks, or by sailing
to him on a boat. It is impossible to get to this most beautiful natural beach along the coast - there are no paths to it, unless
that go down the rope from above. 
35.
36.
It's time to say goodbye. Vadim and Oksana headed towards Balaklava, and I turned onto the path to my Kush-kai. 
37.
38.
On the way I met such a peony bud. 
39.
Valera is already completely ready for shooting - the equipment is uncovered and directed at the object. 
40.
While we were having lunch, the Sun rushed behind Fiolent, illuminating Cape Sarych. 
41.
There was time before moonrise, so I decided to take a nap in a tent... 
42.
But not for long - Valera called and said that the Moon "went". We started filming. 
43.
But after a few moments I wanted to express myself indecently - the moon disappeared behind suddenly appearing clouds. 
44.
Thank God, slipped out of the dark cloudy paws. 
45.
46.
47.
Here is Valerino's time-lapse video about the evening with a view of Ilyas-Kaya and the moon rising above it. You can watch after.
48. The next day... 
49.
We climbed Kush-kai for a long time along a long road, but it turns out that there is another short way, damn it!
They calmed down after they remembered the saying about the smart one who won’t go straight uphill ... 
50.
51.
A couple of last pictures. 
52.
53.
With a sense of gloriously accomplished duty - down the hill, to the car and home. 
In the middle of the way from Sudak to the New World, Mount Kush-Kaya stretches up right above the sea coast. Translated from Turkic - Bird-Rock. In ancient times, people represented the rock in the form of a proud bird, ready to fly. Now most often called the peak Sokol. Although it looks more like a harsh guardian of the sea coast.
Helpful information:
Height above sea level - 478 m, length along the coast - 1208 m. By origin - this is a giant coral reef, formed 140-160 million years ago at the bottom of the Tethys ocean from colonies of sponges and corals.
Photo Mount Falcon in the New World
Historical excursion to Kush-Kaya
The area near Mount Kush-Kaya is considered an archaeological reserve. The ruins of ancient settlements of the 1st-5th centuries AD have been preserved in the juniper thickets. In the Dmitraki tract you can see cave monastery and the remains of the temple of the Byzantine era of the VIII-XII centuries. Near the peak of Perch, the burial place of the medieval bishop Stefan of Surozh was found.
Useful information for the tourist
Mountain Viewer Video:
Popular routes to Mount Sokol
Thrill-seekers and thrill-seekers work out their rock climbing skills on the western slope. More than twenty climbing routes with difficulty of 1-4 hazard categories have been laid here.For those who are not looking for adventure, hiking trails from Sudak.
If you go from the side of Sudak, then the path starts near the Devil's Finger rock, goes around it on the left and leads into the thickets of Crimean oaks. Gradually rising up, the path will lead to the southern slope of the mountain. Then along the ridge to the highest point. There is a small recreation area here.
It is even more interesting to climb the Sokol from the side of the New World. A well-trodden path starts from the house-museum of Lev Golitsyn “The House of Champagne Wines Novy Svet”. locals and oncoming tourists will always tell you how not to stray from the route.
In archival documents, the name of Mount Sokol has been mentioned since the acquisition by Prince Lev Golitsyn in 1878 of the Paradise estate (now it is called Novy Svet). Guests coming to the estate liked to roam the surroundings. It has become fashionable among noble citizens to take walks through coniferous and juniper groves. The benefits of walking for the purpose of general health promotion, and as a prevention of tuberculosis, were justified by the famous professor Sergei Petrovich Botkin. One of the routes was laid to the source of St. Anastasia, further to the top of Sokolenok, and, for the most stubborn, to Mount Sokol.
Another legend says that Golitsyn had an idea to build a castle for his daughter on the top of Sokolenok. Lev Sergeevich has already paved the way from the house to the place of future construction. The insidious plan to ruin the prince prevented the implementation. The road, which in some places has powerful support columns, still exists, it is perfectly visible, it is easy to find.
Useful information for the tourist
Having climbed to the top of the Falcon, orient yourself to the cardinal points and you will find out which peaks are in front of you. In the west, behind the village of Novy Svet, Cape Kapchik and the rocks of Karaul-Oba. In the east, at a glance, Sudak, the Genoese fortress, Cape Meganom. With good visibility, the peaks of the Kara-Dag loom. In the southwest, inquisitive minds will consider the huge Crimean plateau of Babugan the highest peak Crimean peninsula mountain. To the north of you are the rocks of Perchem and the Frog.
Mountain Viewer Video:
Mount Sokol on the map of Crimea
GPS Coordinates: 44°50'10.00, 34°55'40.00 Latitude/Longitude
In Crimea, sonorous and exotic names of natural objects are often repeated and, often, more than once. Kush-Kaya did not escape this fate either. It is noteworthy that there are at least eight mountain peaks with this name, the most famous of which are three. One turned from Kush-Kai into a Cat, acceptable to the Slavic ear. The other is in the New World and is now better known under the name Sokol. Only in the area of the Laspinskaya hollow, the name of the mountain has remained unchanged to this day.
Translated from Turkic, “kaya” means “rock”, and “kush” means “bird”. The peak is located not far from the Sevastopol-Yalta highway, above the Batiliman tract and Laspi Bay, literally covering them from the northern winds, and is part of the huge Kok-Kiya-Bel ridge.
Its name - Ptichya - mountain, apparently, was not given in vain. It is located just on the flight path of birds migrating to warmer climes in winter and back in spring. At the top of the flock, they sat down to rest and regroup, according to ornithologists, before flying over the most dangerous section of the path - open water. At the head flew older and experienced individuals-leaders. Kush-Kaya was especially "popular" among bustards and quails. Lovers of easy prey - poachers - could not miss such a chance, they exhausted the birds, leaving the descendants only memories of the former abundance.
In spring and summer, fogs often visit Kush-Kaya. This process continues until the sea becomes warm. During the day, the ever-increasing sun warms the water surface. Then, according to the known laws of physics, fog is formed, which can hang over the sea in a dense veil for a long time. If the wind turns to land, the fog “storms” the Bird Mountain, flows into the Baidar Valley, and “floods” the vineyards of Balaklava. The picture is extremely beautiful. If the wind is weak, a milky veil hangs over the coast for several days, and the top of the mountain sticks out of the clouds like an island in the ocean.
The height of Kush-Kai is not small 664 m. It is composed of conglomerates of the Upper Jurassic period and marbled reef limestones. A mountain gently rising from the north, reaching highest point, in the south it abruptly breaks down, representing an almost sheer solid wall. The seeming formidable inaccessibility does not frighten climbers at all: now 18 routes of all categories of difficulty with a length of 400 to 700 m have been laid on the array.
The entire lower belt of Kush-Kai with a height of 30 to 100 m has long been a traditional place for training and competitions of climbers and climbers. Many eminent persons were also noted here, such as, for example, Stacey Ellison, the first woman from the United States, who conquered Everest in 1988. This peak can be safely called the "Mecca of the Crimean mountaineering", intoxication with freedom and delight from the conquered abyss has already experienced more than one hundred, if not a thousand of those for whom " better than mountains there can only be mountains.”
In addition, Bird Mountain, like birds once, attracts people who are passionately in love with the sky. The paragliding flight path passes by the southern wall. The area is quite difficult for flights, moving along the top, the air masses flow into the Baidar valley, causing a significant increase in wind. Fortunately, this fact does not interfere with the record holders at all, often flying over the mountain, they fly away to Balaklava and even Fiolent.
Other slopes of Kush-Kai are completely covered with forest - the higher, the higher and denser. In the spring, you can see an incredible abundance of flowers in the forest, among which peonies stand out. The scientific name of this lush, up to 75 cm (!), plant is a three-triple or Crimean peony. According to ancient beliefs, where this large pink flower with white edges grows, there are no evil spirits. But before everyone else, in March-April, the undergrowth literally covers a carpet of snowdrops. White, milky drop flowers appear as soon as the snow begins to melt. Interestingly, snowdrop seeds have an edible appendage and are spread by workaholic ants.
The top of Kush-Kai is absolutely treeless, only green grass and a rare low and bushy juniper enliven the picture. But the views from here are fantastic. You can clearly see the Laspinskaya hollow with a bay, a section of the road to Yalta with the Karaul-Kaya rock and an observation deck, the Kok-Kiya-Bel ridge on one side of the route and the Dragon Wing - Azhder-Kanat rocks - on the other, the Baydarskaya valley with the bowl of the Chernorechensky reservoir . In the distance, from the eastern side of Laspi, the bulk of Ilyas-Kaya rises. And right under your feet is the resort Batiliman with all its rest houses and boarding houses, and the sea, huge and boundless, to the very horizon ....
It can be safely assumed that a person visited the mountain since ancient times, the place is ideal for observing the area. Left and material evidence of stay. Hidden among the trees near the summit were the ruins of a small structure built of carefully hewn, diabase-like stone. It is oriented to the east, there is a wooden cross and a sign saying that this is the temple of St. Elijah of the XI-XV centuries. Nearby is a well - either a source or a reservoir, obviously built in the late 19th - early 20th centuries. However, the temple is not mentioned in any credible work on the history of Crimea, and the masonry is relatively fresh.
Nevertheless, this place is quite habitable, the old medieval road from the observation deck and the so-called Turkish glade rises to Kush-Kaya through a couple of medieval villages. On 19th century maps the road rests against the house of the marine engineering department. It is possible that it was built on the foundation of some ancient structure. However, serious research and excavations have never been carried out here, and lovers of wandering with a metal detector have not yet come across anything more interesting than donkey horseshoes.
Today, people are perhaps more frequent visitors to Kush-Kai than birds. Walking along the path, climbing the rocks, paragliding over the top, they reach their cherished goal faster and faster. And only silence, a grandiose panorama around and the horizon, lost in the distance, can stop the inexorable run of time.
(c) Dmitry Shamrey
the reserved tract Batiliman (Laspi Bay, Sevastopol), perhaps one of the most picturesque, clean and comfortable places on the southern coast of Crimea. Fenced off from the cold winds by the sheer wall of the city of Kush-kaya close to the sea, Batiliman is rightfully considered a place with a mild Mediterranean climate comfortable for relaxation. Between the sea and the rock wall grows a unique relic forest of ancient junipers, wild pistachios and evergreen small-fruited strawberries (the fruits of which are very tasty and nutritious from December to March)). In this forest, among a heap of boulders, is located on cozy shady glades camping park "Kush-kaya", founded by the Crimean Mountain Club in 2011. The main contingent of camping: rock climbers, climbers, practicing yoga, martial arts, children's camps for active and educational recreation, eco-residents and just connoisseurs of a healthy lifestyle :) take the next step on the path of knowledge and skills in rock climbing. The next "SCHOOL" in the campsite will be held on June 1-6, 2014!
The campsite also has a climbing machine to keep fit in any weather.
Actually, in the article, I also wanted to present a guide to Batiliman sports routes, bouldering and climbing to Kush-kaya (the most popular), which I do.
Kush-Kaya is one of the most popular climbing and mountaineering areas in the Crimea. And on this moment, perhaps the best area for beginners in climbing. Active pioneering of climbing routes, the appearance of climbing paths began around the 70-80s of the last century and continues to this day. At the moment there are about 20 climbing routes 1B-5B of difficulty category, about 70 new and old climbing paths and trad lines, about 200 marked and classified bouldering problems, many tracks and hiking trails. The great popularity of the area is due to the fact that the Batiliman tract is separated from external influences by a mountain range. A special microclimate allows you to climb rocks and climb almost all year round.
How to get there:
Kush-Kaya camping park coordinates: 44° 25" 16.6584" N, 33° 40" 52.2948" E 44.421705, 33.682359 public transport can be reached from Sevastopol. It is necessary to purchase a ticket for a bus going to Yalta and get off at the Laspi stop. Then follow the signs of the Mountain Club for 3.5 km to the foot of Kush-Kaya. In the village you can often find a taxi that will take you to the campsite for little money. The nearest grocery store is located in Laspi Bay, Foros village and Orlinoe village. Banks and ATMs can be found in Sevastopol. The nearest car service station (SRT) is located in the village of Orlinoe and in the city of Sevastopol.
Area features:
The area is characterized by warm winters and hot summers. The average winter temperature is 10 degrees Celsius. The summer heat comes from June and lasts until September. When planning ascents, it is necessary to take into account the large length of routes to Kush-Kaya and take a supply of water or warm clothes. It is recommended to use only marked trails for ascent and descent from the top of Kush-Kaya! The territory on which Cape Aya, Kokiya-Kaya and the entire coastal zone is located are the object of the reserve fund and are protected by forestry. It is forbidden to violate the boundaries of the reserve, burn fires, leave garbage!
Features of the routes: all climbing routes are quite long. The upper sections are mostly more monolithic. This guide does not indicate some moves and route options due to its objective illogicality or danger. Full information can be found in the Classifier of climbing routes of the Crimea and the Carpathians.
The climbing sectors "Afrika", "Skinder", "Pink Belt", "Petrel" are protected from above by wide shelves from direct falling stones, but it is not recommended to be on sports sectors without a helmet!
1. Climbing sectors.
On the warm rocks of Batiliman, a large number of competitions, alpiniades were held, such as the “Friendship Cup”, “Kustovsky Memorial”, Alpine Games…….. Sitnik M.A., Babich M. Vorobyov M., Nefedov S. , Kovalev S., Deev A., as well as many others. The team of the Crimean Mountain Club continues the reconstruction and creation of new climbing paths. At the moment, there are four climbing sectors, located almost on the territory of the campsite. Approaches are carried out along marked paths and wooden signs. A large number of easy routes regularly attract many beginner climbers. In summer, the sun sets on the sectors around 10-11 am, and the evening climbing set can start from 18.00.
Balalaika F6b (Levin A. (Sevastopol), reconstruction Lavrinenko A., Saveliev I., Kovalev S.)
It is one of the most popular and visited multipitches. The beginning of the route is marked with the corresponding name on the Pink Belt sector. All stations are equipped with trigger rings and chains. The distance between stations does not exceed 30 m. It is almost impossible to get lost on the route, because the direction of movement is constantly determined by the bolt.
6a +, 6a, 6a, 5a, 6a (the fireplace passes inside on foot), then walk through the bowl along the bolts, 5a, 6a, 6a, 5b, 6b, 6a, 5b
Equipment: rope 50-60 m, a set of quickdraws
Blue wave, F6c+ (Vorobev M. 1991, reconstruction Lavrinenko A., Saveliev I.)
Initially, the route was broken in 1991 by the team of M. Vorobyov and had the name "Seventh Bastion"
Starting from a metal plate with the name of the route, to the right of the Pink Belt sector. All stations are equipped with chains and trigger rings.
6a, 6b, 5c, 6c+, 6c (Alternative move: 6b, 6a), 5a, 5c, 5c+, 6a, 6c, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5b, 5b
There is a lot of friction climbing. Along the route, you can go down from any of its sections.
Equipment: rope 60 m, a set of quickdraws
* In the area of the 5th guy line, it intersects with the route "Jesus" and then follows to the right of it.
** Routes "Left" and "Right" have a common beginning. In the area of the cornice, the routes are divided in a Y-shape.
*** Intersects with Route Seven.
2. Bouldering
Batiliman is a popular winter bouldering area in Crimea. The climate allows climbers of any level to climb comfortably almost all year round. There are about 200 marked stones on the campsite, which are mapped along with the main landmarks.
3. Climbing
Active first ascent of climbing routes in Batiliman on the Kush-Kaya mountain began approximately from the 70-80s of the last century and continues to this day. Odessa and Sevastopol climbers made a great contribution to the development of the region. Equipped parking lots in the grotto of Burevestnik, as well as many coins of the Soviet era found in the park area, testify to the huge attendance and popularity of the area in the old days. An interesting historical fact will be that earlier on one of the hard-to-reach rock shelves above the Burevestnik climbing sector there even existed a climbing house, in the image and example of the Krasnoyarsk Pillars, which served as a refuge for many famous climbers and climbers. At the moment there are about 20 climbing routes 1B-5B of difficulty category.
Classic 2B
The beginning of the route is a vertical fireplace, with a large juniper at the base. Approach along the couloir to the left or right of the climbing sector "Skinder"
R0-R1: 55m III - IV Vertical fireplace. From time to time there are bolts, and natural insurance is also perfectly organized. Station on a shelf on a terrain or higher on a tree.
R1-R2: 50 m II+ Up the couloir with easy climbing. Bolts are occasionally found. Station on bolts.
R2-R3: 50 m II+ Up through a small fireplace. Exit to the ridge. Station on bolts.
R3-R4: 40 m I-II Climb up the simple rocks, belaying the trees. Station on bolts.
R4-R5: 60 m, III More to the left through friction bend. There are several jumpers. Further on the entire length of the rope along the ridge up. Station on the jumpers near the tree.
R5-R6: 45m, II Up the ridge. Bolts are occasionally found. Station on a ledge with bolts.
R6-R7: 45m, II Up the ridge. Bolts are occasionally found. Station on a ledge with bolts.
R7-R8: 40m, II Up the ridge. Station on a ledge with bolts.
R8-R9: 40m, II-III To the left along the cracks to a convenient ledge. Insurance is easy to arrange. Station on bolts.
R9-R10: 40m, III up the slabs with large holds, then traverse left along the bolts. Station on bolts after traverse.
R10-R11: 50m, III On a rich terrain up 15 m, then on foot. Station on bolts on Yayla.
One of the most visited routes on the mountain. It is a classic line of sight, running along the ridge with easy climbing in all areas. It is worth noting the duration of the route, which, however, is compensated by the ease of orienteering. At the peak of the May holidays, traffic jams and crowds often occur on the first pitches. The minimum passage time is from 3 hours for trained climbers, up to 6-8 hours for an average bunch. It is possible to note the similarity with the "Grebnevoy dvuka" on Mount Sokol in Sudak in terms of the nature of the relief and duration.
Equipment: rope 60 m. Medium and large stoppers, friends go equally well. You can go without hammers.
Bowl center 5A (Levin A.-Babich M., Sevastopol, 1978)
Exit on positive terrain from football field to the cornices, then traverse to the right to the beginning of the route. The first station on the bolts of the pioneers near the withered pine.
R0-R1: 35 m VI A2 (F6b) Climbing over an overhanging crack or on an aid. The station is in a small niche on the bolt and its points.
R1-R2: 35 m VI А2 (F6с) Up and to the left under a small ledge to a convenient ledge. Station on the bolt and its points.
R2-R3: 50 m VI A2 (F6b) Along the system of cracks leading diagonally upwards to the left. Station at its points.
R3-R4: 40 m V+ (F6а) Difficult section after the station and exit under the eaves to the left to the station with bolts of the classic two.
Exit to the plateau along the Classics route (4 pitches). The length of the ropes can be contested by other climbers. There are almost no bolts and hooks on the route, so the length of the sections can vary for different climbers, as they lay out the stock of their points.
Equipment: rope 50-60 m, hammers and hooks, small and medium bookmarks, small and medium friends.
Rybka 5A (Stavnitser A., Khovrachev, Korolev A., Staritsky P., Odessa, 1972)
It passes through the cracks in the central part of the bowl, formed by the crest of the 2-ki on the left, and the buttress of the Egg route on the right. First, along the gentle slabs of the bowl, choosing the best path (as in the photo), go to the tree. This is where the actual route starts.
R0-R1: 60 m, V+ A1 From the tree go up to the right and up the crack. Approximately after 10m, the gap splits into two, it is easier to move on the left, there are hooks. Station on a tree + bookmarks.
R1-R2: 50 m V+ Go to the right, to the gap, up the gap. The gap goes into the inner corner. Before a slight overhang, go to the right slot, along it to the ledge. Station on bookmarks and hooks. You can climb the corner without going to the right, but it's more difficult.
R2-R3: 50m, V+ Up, along the crevice, the crevice is difficult at the bottom, further down the corner, climbing is easier. Tree station.
R3-R4: 60m, V A1 Up, by easy climbing, reach the ledge. On the left side of the inner corner, up, exit to the bolt station at the base of the fireplace. Up 3m on the fireplace, then on the right side of the inner corner. From the corner exit through a slight overhang to flatten. Go boldly the entire length of the rope to the tree. Tree station.
R4-R5: 25 m, IV From the tree up, through the inner corner, go out to the yaila.
Equipment: rope 60 m. In the lower part, small and medium bookmarks and friends. In the upper part of the gap is larger and large and hexes will go. You can do without hammers.
Egg 4B (Stavnitser A.-Kholoptsev A., Odessa, 1972)
Passes along a characteristic buttress, limiting the bowl on the right. (on the left, the bowl is limited by the comb 2).
R0-R1: 55 m, IV+ From the big tree to the right up, enter the inner corner. Further along the corner to a small ledge under an overhang. Traverse to the right, around the corner, to a large tree. It has a station. 55 m
R1-R2: 35 m, IV From the tree, along the inner corners, up to a large ledge. Tree station.
R2-R3: 50 m, IV+ Up, along the inner corner, go to the ledge at the top of the "egg". Station on bolts.
R3-R4: 58 m, V+ From the station will descend to the left 3 m, and up along the crescent-shaped gap / - key rope. Tree station.
R4-R5: 60 m, IV+ Go up the inner corner, go to a large pine tree. From the pine to the right up, go to the inner corner, and along the corner, up to simple rocks. Follow them to the right up to the yayla.
A logical and category-appropriate route with a monolithic and clean terrain. Key sections are not pierced with bolts. There is an opportunity to complicate the task and pass the second rope option on the left. In this case, the station is placed on a shelf under an overhang in the middle of the first rope. Complexity of the left bypass: V+, A1. A vertical slot with sloping walls is supported by spacers. If climbing, then you need good shoes.
Equipment: medium and large bookmarks, large hexes, medium and large friends work well. You can go without hammers. Rope 60 m.
Travel time: 5-6 hours
"Pants" left route 5B (First ascent: Stavnitser A., Demyanenko R., Sipkin S., Leontiev V., Odessa, 1974)
R0-R1: 43 m, 6a A2 On the inner corner up 10 m A2 (stoppers and anchors), then climbing up to the niche. After traverses to the left about 5 meters and up the gap, go to the ledge. Station on bolts.
R1-R2: 40 m, 6a A2 Easy climbing around to the left past the tree, then to the right up to the base of the vertical gap. Up the gap, AID + climbing. From the old bolt path going up, go to the right ON THE NEW LIGHTERS by traversing the slab and making a station on the bolts above a small grotto.
R2-R3: 30 m, 6a Up through a crack overgrown with grass, exit under a slightly overhanging monolithic wall. There is a rotten bolt path along the wall, DO NOT GO THERE! Traverse to the right, carefully climbing 10 meters to the bolts with the ring. This is where the Left and Right pants converge.
You can climb around 6a on the left, but you will have to make a station on your own, because. there is not enough rope to get out.
"Pants" right route 5B (Golubenko M., Grishchenko Val., Grishchenko Vik., Kiyanitsa N. (Team of the Kyiv Avangard), 1973)
The beginning of the route is visible from afar. This is the basis of a huge split.
R0-R1: 30 m, I-II approach to the tree at the base of the spall. Pine station.
R1-R2: 40 m, V From a large pine along a huge split to its top. Climbing on spreads from the middle part. There are hooks. Station on three bolts at the top of the cleavage.
R3-R4: 50 m, VI, A1 Up along the system of vertical slots. Do not climb onto the old bolt path that goes to the right. Station on new bolts at the intersection with the left version of the route "Pants". Further routes have a common continuation.
R3-R4: 50 m 6v A1 From the station difficult climbing along the slab to the crevice, then along the crevice, mostly by climbing, up to the right, from under the overhanging crevice traverse to the right into the inner corner, and along the corner go to the ledge. Station on bolts.
You can approach the station on the left side along the 10 m gap A2 (anchors), but it is more difficult.
R4-R5: 45 m 5s A2 On the slab with blind slots, on the AID, enter the inner corner. Follow it to the shelf. On the shelf 5m to the left and up, on the right side of the inner corner. Station on bolts.
R5-R6: 50 m VI A1 From the station up the crack to a small tree. Further up the corner. Go around the cornice on the left, then up through a slight overhang, go to the wall with bolts. On the wall, by difficult climbing, reach the Beyser exit. Station on bolts.
The route is well pierced with new bolts, especially the middle part, which makes it difficult to get lost. From the middle it intersects with the left pants, and on the last rope the path is marked by the bolt of Hayfield.
Equipment: rope 60 m., anchors and small bookmarks for aid, medium bookmarks and medium friends. Hammers, hooks.
Senonkos 5B (Nadtochy S., Voloshanovsky M.)
The route starts 20 m to the right of the large cleavage where the "Right Leg" route begins.
R0-R1: 35 m, V + A2 From the arrow knocked out by a punch straight up along a thin crack 10 m, then along the slab in the direction of the bolt. From it to the left upwards, on a shelf under the eaves. The cornice is passed on the right side (there is a bolt). Station in the grotto.
R1-R2: 30 m VI A2 From the station up the left wall of the grotto 5 m to the aid (bolt, skyhooks), then by difficult climbing along the crack, go to the overhang. Through the overhang on the bolts, exit to the station.
R2-R3: 30 m V+А2 Along the crack, then climbing up the inside corner, sometimes on the aid. Station on 2 bolts before the overhang.
R3-R4: 50 m VI A3 Up the steep crack, go to the ledge. Traverse from it to the right, to another gap. Go up the gap to the left, through a slight overhang, exit onto the ledge. Station on bolts.
R4-R5: 50 m VI A1 From the station up the crack to a small tree. Further up the corner. Go around the cornice on the left, then up through a slight overhang, go to the wall with bolts. On the wall, by difficult climbing, reach the Beyser exit. Station on bolts.
Previously, the route had category 6A. There is a lot of stationary iron on the route. In general, the route is safe. Started on 01/06/94 by Simferopol climbers S. Nadtochim (Terrorist) and M. Voloshanovsky (Michel). Finished in May 1994 as a solo terrorist. The route is a natural watercourse, because of this, the cracks are clogged with earth and grass, therefore, the Terrorist named his route "Haymaking".
Travel time 6-8 hours.
Corner 5A (Nosov A. - Kalinichenko M. (Sevastopol), 1975)
The route was repaired by the team of A. Lavrinenko in April 2013. The stations are equipped with new bolts and trigger rings. The route is an internal angle of varying steepness, going mainly in braces. Sometimes there are small overhangs.
R0-R1: 35m V+ The first station on a large ledge under the start of the route. The first cornice is bypassed on the right. Then to the left through the buzzing spall to the beginning of the vertical inner corner. Then up the inner corner. Station with bolts.
R1-R2: 25 m V+ Up through a slight overhang (F6a). A semi-hanging station on friends and large anchorages in front of the cornice, not very convenient in terms of location for two, due to the high friction of the rope.
R2-R3: 40m V+ Eaves bypass on the left (F6a). Further climbing is simplified. The gap becomes positive and leads to the right into a large fireplace. Station bolts on a spall on the left side of a large fireplace. Great rope friction!!!
R3-R4: 10 m VI A2, 10 m V+, 10 m VI A2 From the station climb up 10 m along the microrelief by climbing (F6b) or to AID A2. The relief for insurance is poor. A relief skyhook, possibly anchors, will come in handy. Then either to the right through the overhanging yayla, or an unpleasant traverse to the left under the eaves. The left option is easier.
Very logical and beautiful line. In some places, the line wags, causing friction on the rope. Hammers and hooks are required. Large embedded elements work well. Difficult last rope.
Large fireplace SE wall 3B (Tkachenko G., 1978)
The beginning of the route is the base of a large fireplace, which is clearly visible even from the beach.
R0-R1: 25m, II The first station on bolts, common with the corner. To the right along simple rocks to the base of a large fireplace.
R1-R2: 40 m, III+ From the base of the fireplace straight up along the right wall. Sometimes there are old hooks. Tree station.
R2-R3: 30 m (20 m III; 10 m V) From the tree the line goes to the right beyond the kink. Poor hearing. Through a slight overhang to vertical rocks with inside corner on the left. It is better not to climb into the corner, although old hooks are visible there. From this place, drop down to the right and go to a convenient platform with a large tree.
R3-R4: 25m IV+ Along the oblique crack to the left of the tree, up to the right, exit under a small ledge. He walks to the right along the gap. Then up to the tree. Station on a tree or on your own.
R4-R5: 30 m (25 m III; 5 m V A1) From the station to the right up, along the inner corner, then through the 5 meter vertical wall, to the inner corner, and along it to the top. Station on a tree near the edge.
Impressions: Long approach, includes sections that are not typical for third category routes. Small and medium sizes of embedded elements work well. You can climb without hammers.
"Integral" 5A (Gorbunov A. - Kholoptsev A. (Odessa)
The route got its name because of the characteristic gap in the upper part of the wall. The approach to the beginning of the route begins above the Leningrad sites. The path goes along the shelves to the right side of the wall. The line starts almost above the Burevestnik sector.
R0-R1: 60 m III+ To the left up along a soft inner corner to a large juniper. Station on a stove on a tree.
R1-R2: 15 m IV, 15 m V+, 10 m II From the tree go to the right into the inner corner, which turns into a clear gap. Beautiful climbing and psychologically difficult climbing. The station (anchors, bookmarks) is 10 m to the left, standing on a shelf on a slab at the base of the inner corner going up.
R2-R3: 50 m IV+ Along the inner corner to the left up to the overhang, then to the right of the overhang along the crack to a small grotto. Station in the grotto at its points (bookmarks, anchors).
R3-R4: 60m V Logical climb up the inside corner. Lots of live stones, grass, earth and lichen. Station at its points in the gap (hexes).
R4-R5: 40m V+ 10m V, A0 Up the inner corner leading to an overhanging fireplace. The fireplace is in full swing. Backpacks will get in the way. Then a complex overhanging corner of 10 m on which there are 3 bolts and a hook. You can climb 6b+ - 6c, or A0. Station on new bolts.
R6-R7: 40m III Simple logical crack climbing up. Then to the right along the positive relief to the yayla. Under the top, the possibilities for organizing belay are limited: about 10-15 m. Station on a yail on a tree.
In general, the route is strenuous. Requires the organization of its own stations. Large embedded elements, hexes work well. Hooks and hammers are required. At times there are many living stones, grass and lichen.
Parabola 3B
The route passes along the right side of the South-Eastern bastion of Kush-Kaya. The beginning coincides with the beginning of the route "Integral". The approach to the beginning of the route begins above the Leningrad sites. The path goes along the shelves to the right side of the wall. The line starts almost above the Burevestnik sector.
R0-R1: 45m III The beginning is common with the route "Integral". Climb 20 m from the shelf along the inner corner, then go right to a large tree. Continue up to the base of the inner corner. Difficulty is unevenly distributed.
R1-R2: 40 m II From the station on the tree along simple cracks to the inner corner, which leads to a ledge with two junipers. Tree station.
R2-R3: 45m V Along the inner corner 15m up, then to the right to the tree to the right under the yellow cornice. Key rope
R3-R4: 40m III Up the positive rocks of medium difficulty to a small ledge.
R4-R5: 45 m III To the left past the overhang along the system of cracks on a large ledge.
R5-R6: 40 m II To the right, choosing the easiest way to get to the yaila. Station on bolts.
A difficult route in its category, requiring the ability to navigate the terrain well. The relief is very rich. Not recommended as first triplets. There is a chance to go to more difficult rocks. You can go without hammers.
Through the sole on the right 4A (Vorobyev M., Nesterov V., Pavlov Yu. (Sevatopol), 1995)
To start on the route, you need to go through the "Africa" sector and go left to the scree going up.
R0-R1: 45m II Start along the scree, taking to the right. Tree station.
R1-R2: 45 I Up the light rocks. Station on the tree.
R2-R3: 40m I To the right to a large tree along light rocks. Juniper station.
R3-R4: 25 III Along the inner corner to the ledge with wood.
R4-R5: 40m III Diagonally to the right to enter the bowl. Tree station.
R6-R7: 45 m III Along the positive relief and the gap up. Tree station.
R7-R8: 45 m III Up the crack. Tree station.
R8-R9: 45m III Up to a convenient ledge with trees. Juniper station.
R9-R10: 45m III Climb down from the ledge and go to the right of the fireplace. You don't have to go into the fireplace. Tree station.
R10-R11: 5m V, 25m III From the tree up the overhanging crack 5 m. Key area. Then by simple climbing to the exit to the yayla
Equipment: standard set. There are few stationary irons on the route. It is advisable to have hammers.