Let's build our plane! How to build a model aircraft yourself. Radio-controlled aircraft from the ceiling Drawings of a radio-controlled aircraft

It is considered one of the easiest to fly, therefore it is suitable for a novice model pilot and can be used as a trainer, that is, as the first model for flight training.

For the manufacture of a model aircraft, the following materials are needed:
Flat ceiling tiles or underlay for laminate, 3-5 mm thick.
Ceiling glue, this is Titanium or any of its analogues, a 5-10 ml disposable syringe.
Adhesive tape of different colors, glue for paper.
A piece of thin but rigid wire, for example, a piano string, a wire for a semi-automatic welding machine, diameter D = 0.8-1mm.
A flat base for working with a knife, such as a sheet of plexiglass, a laminate board.

Required spare parts:
Receiver and transmitter for 4 teams or more.
The motor is electric for an airplane at 1100 rpm or more.
Servos 5-9 grams 4 pcs.
LiPo battery for 12 volts 1000-2000 mAh. 1 PC.
Propeller size 8040-9060.

Required tools:
Knife modeler or clerical with spare blades.
Metal ruler 50-100 cm.
Sandpaper, emery bar (stone).

Item 1. Preparation for work.
First you need to find it on the Internet, or take it here ( (downloads: 4684)) drawings of the aircraft model itself, then print them on a printer in A4 sheet format.

Lay out the resulting printouts on a flat surface in accordance with serial numbers, as a result, a connected image of the finished elements of the aircraft should be obtained.

Now you need to glue the necessary sheets together. For the correct gluing of sheets, so as not to violate the dimensions and geometry of the future aircraft, it is necessary to cut off the extra edges on each sheet of the drawing, for the convenience of determining the cutting lines, special crosses of the border are drawn at the corners, it remains only to decide which side we will cut, connect the two corner crosses with a line and get cutting line.

After removing the extra sides with scissors, we connect the resulting fragments of the drawing together, evaluate how well everything fits together, after which you can apply glue to the uncut edges of the sheet and glue it.

The joints must match very precisely.

Thus, we glue all the fragmented elements of the drawing. The result should be seven glued and two single sheets (for the Cessna182 drawing).

Point 2. Cutting blanks.

Now you can lay out a "sandwich" from the substrate and the drawing. For the convenience of holding the sheet on the substrate, you just need to glue it a little with glue with a pencil. During further manipulations, it will not have time to dry completely and therefore the paper (stencil) from the finished part will be easily removed without being damaged at all for reuse.

Then you can do in different ways, as you like more.

If the part is simple, with a large number of straight lines, then it is enough to mark all the corners of the part with needle punctures, then remove the stencil paper and apply a ruler from the puncture point to another point, make a cut with the tip of the knife, then shift the ruler to the next points and so on until you complete complete cutting of the part.

If the part has a complex shape, with rounded sides, then you can immediately cut it using a stencil and completely cut out the workpiece.

In this way, all the details of the aircraft model are cut out. If you are making your first model, you should lay out or mark each of the parts so that you can easily determine its purpose from the drawing.

Point 3. Gluing the body of the aircraft, assembly.
You can start by gluing double partitions, that is, consisting of several identical parts glued together for extra strength.
Like this fuselage baffle.

Glue we will use Titanium, as the most accessible for most beginner modellers, and for applying glue it is convenient to use a syringe without a needle, fill it with glue and use it as a convenient dispenser.

The cut parts are not always smooth enough, this can be easily corrected with sandpaper.

Now we take one side of the fuselage, lay it with the correct side on the table so that the laminated side is outside the aircraft. We cut out all the docking and mounting holes in the sidewall, then we put the second half and copy the same holes on it.

We take the front partition of the compartment, apply glue to the glued side of the workpiece and press it to its installation site, move the workpiece a little in different directions so that the glue is well smeared and again separate the workpieces for the glue to dry for 10-30 seconds. (to speed up, you can wave, blow), then reconnect the parts and press with force for 5-10 seconds.

Now you can let go and deal with other blanks, periodically checking how the first blank is glued and, if necessary, press it again.

In the process of building an aircraft, it is important to keep track of such things as the size of your battery in time (it may be larger than planned in the drawing) and accordingly independently adjust the dimensions of the compartment if necessary, constantly check the perpendicularity of the parts to be glued, do it with a square or ruler.

This is how all the partitions of the front, middle and rear parts of the fuselage are assembled in stages.

When all the partitions are installed, you can glue the second side of the fuselage.

We finish the muzzle and mount under the engine mount.

We install the upper part of the fuselage with a slot for the tail (rudder).

We glue the tail blanks, immediately lay reinforcement from reinforced tape for attaching the rudder and toothpicks for rigidity.

We clamp the gluing with a board and clamps for even gluing.

As a result, everything is smooth and toothpicks do not stand out.

Glue the tail into place.

We always check and maintain a strict vertical.

We glue the details of the elevator, inside we also lay a bamboo skewer and adhesive tape for attaching the steering wheel, we perforate the adhesive tape with holes for better gluing of the halves of the ceiling.

We also squeeze the board and clamps until the glue dries completely, for about a day.
We grind the edges at an angle of 45 degrees, so that when the planes are tilted, they do not rest against each other, it is convenient to do this with a simple stone, bar or sandpaper.

We make a wing, mark lines on the wing for gluing stiffeners, ribs, spars.

A wooden axis (spar) is usually made from a 50 cm wooden ruler; if you have a circular saw, you can simply dissolve the board into shingles and then cut it to the desired size.

First, glue the spar rail.

In the middle, we reinforce the joint with two more small slats.

Then we glue the foam nevryura.

To glue the upper plane of the wing, the material of the ceiling or substrate must be prepared, rolled on a piece of pipe to set a preliminary bend of the desired shape, after which glue can be applied to all contacting elements and final gluing can be done. Fixing the wing for the time of setting the glue, you can use any of the available ones, cargo, clothespins, adhesive tape.

Small dents in the clothespin field can be sanded with sandpaper.

In the central part of the wing, we close the cavities, glue the inserts.

After the glue has completely dried, mark the ailerons, additionally focus on looking at the clearance so as not to get on the partition.

We cut through the cutter on both sides, take out the finished aileron.

All open cavities are sealed with strips of tiles.

Ready-made ailerons can be immediately glued using reinforced tape or left for later, until the main fitting of the entire model with adhesive tape.

The front of the wing can also be reinforced with reinforced tape.

Now you can cover the entire model with adhesive tape, this is not only for beauty, but to a greater extent to give strength, now the model will be able to withstand small drops and bumps.

We smooth the adhesive tape with a warm iron, this procedure will finally bake it to the foam, but for the first model this is not necessary.

To install the elevator wing, you need to make a slot in the body and push the wing into place.

We install servos on the wing. To do this, we apply and circle them with a marker, then cut out the seat. We stretch the wires and fasten the servos into place on double-sided tape. On the contrary, horns are installed on the ailerons and connected to the servos with a rigid wire.

Aeromodelling is an entertaining hobby, the logical continuation of which is aeromodelling, in which there is a European Championship and a World Championship.

Models are: non-flying, flying and copy models (scale (from 1:2 to 1:200 and more) and prefabricated).

Flightless models are, perhaps, one of the most undemanding class of models in terms of manufacturing materials. Necessarily - this is an external correspondence to the original. It is these models that are not considered as modeling objects, because assembling an aircraft model of this type with your own hands will require: perseverance, knowledge of historical accuracy, a lot of time for assembly and attentiveness.

Flying models, according to the official classification, are divided into five groups:

• - Category F-1- free-flying models.
• - Category F-2— cord models of aircraft.
• - Category F-3- radio controlled models.
• - Category F-4- models-copies of aircraft.
• - Category F-5— radio-controlled model airplanes with electric drive.

Copy models usually do not fly. Constructors for assembling them can be purchased at stores that sell children's toys or at the DeAgostini store (section).

How to make the first aircraft model yourself?

The next step is to search for drawings (in DeAgostini they come with an assembly manual, instructions). Beginners do not need to take a model that is too complicated (a small model from the "Aviation Legend: Russian bomber Ilya Muromets" collection will do), because in the end you may not figure out how to make an aircraft model yourself, abandoning work at the initial stages. Sources can be DeAgostini's online store, a library, specialized magazines, an aircraft modeling club or a forum (even just to establish correspondence with one of the members). For clarity of the process, we suggest taking patterns of a planning aircraft.

Before starting work, an aircraft modeler must figure out in detail how to make an aircraft model himself, because the event is long and painstaking. Creating an aircraft model begins with the fact that you need to allocate a place to work and equip it. To make a paper model of an airplane, you only need scissors, a ruler, paper and glue. If you like the hobby, then in the future you will need: a table with brushes, blades, white dry rags, rulers, compasses, protractors, squares, adhesive tape, scissors, good lighting (along with a magnifying glass), awl, knife, vise and other inventory.

When the modeling object is found, it is necessary to convert and print patterns and drawings to scale (in the DeAgostini collections, popular models are supplied in 1:32, 1:43 scales). We cut out the patterns, along the way making cuts and bending along the fold lines. When the blanks are completed, it remains only to glue and glue them together so that it turns out to make a model of the aircraft with your own hands. When the glue dries, the first job can be considered completed.

Types of materials for creating aircraft models

Paper, drawing paper, cardboard are some of the most accessible and simple materials for creating simple models or copy models, but they are not suitable for making serious products.

Making a model of an airplane out of cardboard or wood is already a little more difficult, since it requires more accuracy and the ability to handle tools well, in addition, the number of operations for making models from these materials is higher, it is no coincidence that one of the first points is the equipment of the place to work.

Models created for competition or for their own exhibition usually consist of a variety of materials.

• - Coroplast- cellular polypropylene or plastic. The material is quite dense, can be processed, plastic.
• - Styrofoam- the cheapest and one of the most accessible materials, since we are talking about panels that are used to decorate or fill the interior space, such as wings or the inside of the hull. In Europe, Depron is used.
• - Balsa (balsa) or light wood can be purchased in the form of a profile, strips or bars - this is the best material for those who want to make a model aircraft from wood. Thickness from 0.5 mm to 3-5 mm (the thinner the better).
• - carbon fiber.
• - Epoxy resin.

With proper skill, some parts of the wings and fuselage can be made or ordered to be made through 3D printing (from thermoplastic).

Gliding models and flying models do not have to be equipped with an internal combustion engine (ICE) or an electric motor. The flight radius of a glider (small) can be increased by installing a rubber motor (see "rubber motor"). On gliders, you can work out your understanding and study aerodynamics well.

Making a flying model of an airplane with an electric motor or an internal combustion engine was a kind of test for any aircraft modeler.

Making copy models

If the manufacture of flying models is not particularly interesting, then you can glue models of aircraft - non-flying copies (scale or prefabricated models). In the DeAgoshop online store you can find a kit with ready-made plastic parts by subscription, which you only need to correctly connect, paint and stick stickers (decals). How to glue the aircraft model correctly is indicated in the insert instructions, but in the general case, small parts are combined into large products, after which the structure is joined together and painted and glued together. After painting, it is important to correctly glue the stickers on the aircraft model. We will tell you how to glue decals on the model correctly:

• - Cut out the decal along the contour.
• - We fill the container with water (room temperature), leave the decal in it for 2-3 minutes.
• - We take out the decal, remove the film.
• - Carefully apply the decal to the model.
• - Use a cloth or napkin to remove moisture / drops of water.

If the work is done neatly, beautifully and presentably, then the model can be put in a conspicuous place as a decoration or placed on a makeshift stand. For example, the Douglas DC-3 model has a special .

Are you looking for aircraft model drawings which one is right for you?

fingering blueprints which you dug up on the Internet or took from books or magazines, you think something is not right……..

This one is too complex, this one is too simple and primitive, and this one is all made of balsa….

And if you think, well, where is WHERE to find the drawing that I need, where is that optimal airplane model or a glider that meets exactly my requirements ???

You've come to the right place, congratulations :)

Here you will find EVERYTHING!!!

And if you don’t find it, then come back later, as the site is constantly updated and supplemented.

The site used the materials of the magazine Modelist-Konstruktor. All rights to these materials belong to their authors and the Modelist-Konstruktor magazine. The site materials are for informational purposes only.

And you will definitely find what you need!

So welcome to not a site full of various drawings of aircraft models

(and not only)

Here you will find:

aircraft models with internal combustion engines Aircraft models with electric motors

Code aircraft models

aircraft models with radio control

aircraft models with rubber motor

Helicopter models

Glider Models

paper models aircraft

Drawings of kites

rocket plane models

Aircraft drawings presented on the site have various technical solutions, from simple to the most complex, Here are collected aircraft models from the sixties to the present day. So the choice here is very large for both beginners and professionals.

And I will constantly replenish my site with new models of aircraft, helicopters, gliders, and in general I will post everything that flies here. Bit by bit I collected drawings of aircraft models from old books and magazines and I hope you appreciate my work and find here a lot of interesting things for yourself and come back more than once.

Except aircraft models I plan to lay out drawings of aircraft on which you yourself can take to the air.

These will be:

Gliders

Autogyros

Helicopters

hang gliders

And in general, I decided to create a portal based on this site in the near future. Where there will be not only aircraft, but also:

boats

Catamarans

Snowmobiles on caterpillar tracks and on pneumatics

Various velomobiles

Homemade cars

In general, everything that flies through the sky, floats on water, and moves on the ground, and that you can collect with your own hands. All this will be on my website.

So, here you will learn how to make a kite from the simplest to the more complex.

Many people are skeptical about paper models, but in vain! It's pretty interesting.

Drawings of models of gliders from the simplest to the most complex.

Line drawings of all types of aircraft from training to champion. Rubber aeromodels, this type of aeromodels is very rarely searched for in search engines, I tell you that rubber aeromodels are not deservedly forgotten, look there, I’m sure you won’t regret it!

Also here you will find drawings of timer models. radio-controlled aircraft, model helicopters, model aircraft with jet engines-rocket planes, aircraft models with a CO2 engine, with an engine that does not work with liquefied gas.

Aircraft model internal combustion engines (internal combustion engines), how they are arranged and how they work, as well as recipes for fuel mixtures.

There is also a helpful tips section. Aircraft modellers are creative people and constantly invent something, invent, improve models. This section of the site will be devoted to such small inventions. I hope it will be interesting and useful to you.

Probably there is no such boy who would not like to fly. You can fly on anything, for example, on a home-made radio-controlled model aircraft or on a paraglider.

But, you can start with a simple free-flying model aircraft.

You can make such a simple aircraft model from ceiling tiles. You can stick paper printouts with a view of the aircraft on the details of the model, or you can paint the model of the aircraft yourself.

How to make a flying airplane model with your own hands

(clickable)

For manufacturing, you will need a ceiling tile (take it without an extruded pattern) or cardboard.

The easiest way to start making a flying model of an airplane is from the wing. It has a simple shape and is easy to cut. Cutting is done using a regular clerical knife. You can pre-glue the printed templates on the ceiling tiles and then cut the details of the flying model aircraft right through the paper.

The fuselage is also cut from the ceiling. The wing consoles are glued at an angle of 7-10 degrees, then the aircraft model will self-stabilize in flight.

The front fuselage pads are needed in order to make the nose heavier, it may be necessary to add weight to the nose of the model aircraft for a smooth flight.

See how to properly set up a model aircraft flight.

How to run a model aircraft
After the model aircraft is assembled, the question usually asked is how to properly set up the flight of the model aircraft.

Look at the picture above - if a homemade model aircraft takes off after being thrown, then you need to add weight to the nose of the model aircraft. It can be plasticine or a lead weight taken at a car wheel balancing station.

If the aircraft model dives, then vice versa, reduce the load or add it on the tail of the homemade aircraft model.

A properly tuned homemade model aircraft flies smoothly.

It is best to launch a free-flying aircraft model from a hill, for example, from the balcony of a multi-storey building. A steep slope is also well suited for launching, the main thing is that the wind on the slope is uphill.

Watch a video of making a free-flying ceiling tile model.

Also interesting articles:

Do-it-yourself aircraft model - we make a radio-controlled aircraft model

How to make a radio-controlled yacht with your own hands - we make a radio-controlled yacht.

Hello everyone, aviation has always been my life's passion, which eventually led to my PhD at an aviation university. As an engineering student I know there is always more to learn, but I also have a lot to give myself as I have been flying, building and designing aircraft for 10 years. As a result of my hobby, I collected information and wrote a detailed instruction on the topic: "How to design and build a radio-controlled aircraft." In it, I collected the necessary and useful information, starting from the choice of an aircraft model and ending with a test flight of an aircraft.

Any development of an aircraft begins with a clear goal setting. It is the main guiding force of all calculations and design work. For construction, I chose a piston fighter of the Second World War. That is why my research began with studying various aircraft designs in order to find an example to follow. This list includes the P-51 Mustang, Messerschmitt BF-109, P-40, Spitfire, and other World War II fighters. All these aircraft were symbols of their time and most suitable for the conditions in which they were operated.

As a result of long preparatory work and the aircraft manufacturing process, I wrote an instruction in which I spoke in detail about all aspects of the design and manufacture of an aircraft model. In the instructions you can find information on the basic steps for building an aircraft model, on difficulties and overcoming them. You can also find information on how to work with wood, how to do fiberglass work, and other aspects of the art of aircraft modeling. I hope that the manual will provide all the necessary information and will serve as a guide to the world of aeromodelling.

This detailed instruction begins with the selection of an aircraft model, then considers the stage of calculating the aircraft model, determining the weight and making a prototype. Next come the stages associated with the manufacture of individual parts of the model: wings, fuselage, plumage, engine compartment. I did not upload photos of each step of construction, since there are many of them. But on the other hand, he described in detail each stage of manufacturing and is glad that everyone can find information on how to advance in the manufacture of their aircraft model, and for me this is already a great reward. If you have any questions about aeromodelling technology, I will be happy to answer them in the comments after the article.

Step 1. The purpose of creating an aircraft

The first step in building an aircraft is always determined by the purpose for which the aircraft will be used. Examples of aircraft targets can be the following:

Aircraft model trainer for flight training

Aircraft model for acrobatics

Model aircraft for racing

Aircraft model for soaring

Simulation of real models

Additionally, the size of the model, budget, and timing are also considered.
In my case, the choice fell on a scale model of the British Spitfire fighter. After that, I drew sketches of my aircraft in an arbitrary scale with all its details.

Step 2. Determination of the main parts of the aircraft

Plane sketch in top view

I began to analyze the amount of work, and how detailed my model would be. And here's what I got.

Wing mechanization level:

• Flaps - control planes of the inner section of the wing, designed to increase the lift created by the wings to coordinate the trajectory during takeoff and landing
• Ailerons - control surfaces of the outer section of the wings for roll control
• Elevator - horizontal stabilizer control planes used for pitch control
• Horizontal stabilizer - provides longitudinal stability to the aircraft
• Wings are prefabricated, consist of spars and ribs, have endings at the end

Fuselage level:

• Battery capacity and discharge level
• Engine hood - covering the engine part of the aircraft immediately behind the fairing
• Engine shutters - cover the top of the fuselage behind the hood
• Truss structures inside the fuselage that create a cross section like a frame on a ship
• Rudder - vertical stabilizer control for yaw control

Also I decided to do:

• A tail wheel is a wheel located at the tail end of an aircraft to enable it to maneuver on the ground. Usually in radio-controlled aircraft, this wheel is tied to the tail.
• The main landing gear is a landing gear designed to support the weight of aircraft during landing.
• Fairing - the nose of an aircraft that fits over the driveshaft of the engine and propeller to give the nose a streamlined shape.

Step 3. Manufacturing technology

For the manufacture of materials such as fiberglass, Kevlar, or fiberglass are used. Allows you to make very light and durable aircraft structures. The main disadvantage of such designs is the cost and time required for manufacture. In addition, this technology requires specialized tools and manufacturing procedures to create molds and cast parts. In addition, such materials can cause radio interference, which can compromise the use of even 2.4 MHz transmitters.

Wood processing requires the use of a standard set of tools for creating an aircraft. Labor intensity can be reduced due to the simplicity and ease of working with wood. In addition, since this technology is widespread, information about it is readily available.

Foam aircraft are strong and quick to build, however, aircraft are often heavier than their conventional counterparts, as the foam requires additional reinforcements in order to withstand flight loads.

Step 4. Calculate the size

The size of an aircraft is determined by several criteria. Among these criteria are manufacturing technology, ease of transportation to the place of flight, flight characteristics (flight radius, wind resistance), as well as landing site requirements (water, grass, lawn, and others).

From this point on, the selection of the appropriate aircraft size begins, based on the known dimensions of the model components, such as electronic equipment. This can be difficult to do as it is best to classify the components and then work on the overall concept of the aircraft. For example, the weight of a wing can be approximated by the weight of the material that will be used to make the spar, then the number of balsa sheets needed to build the ribs and skin of the wing is estimated. In addition to this, other parts of the aircraft, such as the leading edge, should also be taken into account. It's also best to keep some materials handy for accurate weight measurements.

Step 5. Electronics

Here is a detailed list of the entire list of equipment included in the model:

• The transmitter is a controller used by the pilot to broadcast radio signals to the aircraft's receiver.
• A receiver is a device that receives signals from a transmitter and transmits them to servos and other devices.
• The motor speed controller controls the flow of power to the electric motor (axle drives).
• The receiver and drive power system reduces battery voltage to a safe level for the receiver and other equipment.
• The battery is the power source on the aircraft, powering the engine and other equipment.
• On-board battery - a battery installed independently of the power source used only to power the receiver and servos. The battery increases the level of safety as it works independently of the power system, which can fail.
• Brushless motors are the most common on RC models. These motors have improved efficiency over brushed motors as they have reduced friction and increased efficiency.
  The old type of motors are brushed motors, which are used mainly in cheap models by beginner aircraft modellers, small sizes, such as micro helicopters.
• Analog servos are cheap and suitable for most applications. Digital motors have an increased frame rate and can provide increased rotational speed, more torque and accuracy. However, the price of such motors is in a different price range, and it is required to accurately select the appropriate power supply system for the set number of servos.

Step 6. Determining the weight

The next step in project planning is determining the weight. This stage will give an understanding of the realism of the model and how vital it is. I recommend that you make a table to quickly go through the possible design options (for example, such as my "Weight Calculation" table).

First, start listing the components that go into the weight of an aircraft, such as servos and receivers. Then estimate the total weight of the aircraft, and break it down into parts for the weight of the wing, tail, fuselage, landing gear, and power system. At this stage, it will be seen how much power is required for the model and what weight it will have. If the weight of the aircraft turns out to be excessive, then the wing area will increase, and the design of the aircraft will need to be revised. In addition, at this stage it will be necessary to estimate how quickly the model will gain takeoff speed. To do this, use the lift force equation shown in the figure and in the table, and substitute the maximum aerodynamic coefficient for your profile, or a conservative value of 1.1, into it.

Step 7. Calculation of batteries

A lightweight and efficient power system is at the heart of any aircraft. For an electric powered model aircraft, the best solution is a brushless motor with a lithium polymer battery. Here are some tips I can give based on my experience.

• In order to select the right system, you need to know the level of power consumption of your equipment. You can pick up a system in any online store of equipment for aircraft modellers: www.rc-airplane-world.com
• Once the power requirement has been determined, the next step is to find the motors best suited for the conditions. When searching, it is important to know the operating and limiting power values. They must match your conditions.
• The speed of brushless motors is measured in Kv. Kv stands for the number of revolutions per volt. High Kv values ​​are more suitable for small models and tunnel fans. Motors with a low Kv value produce more torque but run at a slower speed and usually use high voltage to accelerate them. The general approach is that for the same output power, a high kv motor will turn a smaller propeller faster if the voltage is increased, while a low kv motor will turn a large motor much slower and with more electricity, but at a higher voltage. The golden mean when choosing a motor is between the optimal battery size and suitable power.
• I highly recommend using a calculator to evaluate the performance of a motor before purchasing it. Ecalc is a simple and accessible web application that contains a large number of motors and propellers and allows you to evaluate the performance of various combinations before buying. In the application, you can also quickly evaluate the current consumed by your design, as well as measure the thrust: www.ecalc.ch
• The motor speed controller must be selected to match the operating voltage and current of the motor. In addition to this, if the aircraft electronics are disconnected from the power system built into the motor controller, then there should be enough electricity for all the servos. You should also provide a 20% power reserve for the controller to ensure trouble-free operation.
• The last thing to choose is the battery. If you choose a battery with less power than the load, then it can fail at the most inopportune moment. Lithium polymer batteries are rated by the number of cells in the battery, for example, the larger the "S" value, the higher the voltage values. Battery capacity is rated in mAh and discharge rate is rated in C. To estimate the maximum current that can be drawn from a battery, take the battery capacity in mAh, divide by 1000, and then multiply by the C rating. Also be aware of the 25% discharge rate margin, as some batteries have an overestimated cell life. Finally, never over-discharge lithium polymer batteries, and recharge batteries every 10 flights.

Step 8. Checking the Design

Sketch of the aircraft in lateral projection

Plane sketch in top view

Sketch of the aircraft in lateral projection

Plane sketch in top view

Once the design is complete, the design needs to be checked. To do this, I made sketches of my model on a scale of 1: 2. With this new sketch, I made a glider version of my foam plane. The production of the prototype began with the creation of a fuselage in the form of a side projection with an elevator. Then a groove was cut in the fuselage for the tail unit. Note that the tail is set at a negative angle of attack, as it should be. For a standard aircraft with the main wing ahead of the tail, this is important for stability. In order to connect the two wings together, I glued several pieces of wire into the wing and pushed it halfway into the opposite wing, then tied the plane with packing tape and added a piece of plasticine to the nose for balance. During the test, the model performed well, quickly came out of a stall and flew well, so I decided to start building a full-scale model.