Rock climbing in the Crimea for beginners. Meals on trips. Approximate departure plan
Of course, real mountaineering, the purpose of which is to conquer impregnable, icy and snowy peaks, cannot exist in Crimea. And there are no impregnable peaks here, and the climate is not conducive to eternal ice and significant snow cover. But Crimea is ideally suited for rock climbing. Every tourist has a chance to overcome the harsh and, at first glance, absolutely impregnable rocks, whether he is an amateur in this matter or a professional. There are more than enough opportunities for both learning this difficult task and improving it.
The most suitable time for the development of the Crimean rocks is from April to mid-June and from September to the first half of November. Popular climbing routes pass along the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains. On the southern coast of Crimea, a spur of this ridge, starting from Cape Aya, descends steeply to the sea. There are a lot of steep cliffs here, an extreme walk to the tops of which is unusually tempting for many climbers.
Paragelmen, Krestovaya, Krasny Kamen, Alupkinskaya, Kastropolskaya and Forosskaya walls are especially popular among those who like to move along the sheer stone walls. Near Yalta, there is a cliff of Mount Stavri-Kaya, known among rock climbers all over the world, accessible only to professional climbers. The height of this grandiose, seemingly insurmountable rock is almost ninety meters. Climbing to the very top of such a giant is not at all easy. Such a process requires remarkable skill and constant training. Near Sevastopol rises the rocky mountain of Marchek, which is also not easy to conquer. But not far from Simferopol there are Petrovsky rocks, the peaks of which can be subdued even by those who have recently joined this difficult task.
There is a universal rocky platform on the southern coast of Crimea, intended for both professionals and amateurs - a climbing wall near Yalta, Nikitskaya cleft. Equipped with a climbing wall according to the highest international standards. World famous athletes often come here.
Many climbers rush to one of the most difficult climbing objects in the Crimea - Mount Sokol, located not far from Sudak. The routes on this mountain are good because the sun warms them in full force only in the afternoon, and excessive heat does not prevent climbing for a long time. But in the rain, trying to overcome rocky routes is very dangerous: water can wash away the stones, thus causing a stone collapse. The plateau at the top of the mountain is extremely picturesque, and a walk along it after climbing is a pleasure.
Several routes of medium difficulty pass along the Kastropol wall, located between the mountains of Marchek and Merdven-Kaya, and along the western and central walls of the Ai-Petri massif, along the Angarsk wall of Chatyr-Dag. In the season, these areas are besieged by rock climbers, who come here both alone and in whole groups.
In the Central Crimea, fans of mountaineering and mountain recreation are attracted by the gorges of the Kizil-Koba mountain range, rocks located in the tract Zmeinaya Balka, rocks of the Demerdzhi and Syuyuryu-Kaya mountains, Storozhevoy cliff, located opposite Syuyuryu-Kaya at the mouth of the Grand Canyon. Climbing the overhanging wall of this cliff takes about five hours.
An excellent training ground for rock climbers was created in the Bakhchisaray Salachik gorge. The polygon has about one hundred and twenty routes designed for athletes of any training. Included in these routes are both relatively safe, almost gentle rock formations for beginners, and overhanging rocks with almost smooth walls, accessible only to masters.
Every year in the Crimea, mainly on its southern coast, sport climbing competitions are held. Thousands of fans of this sport, who come here from the CIS countries and far abroad, take part in them. An incredible number of spectators who are accommodated both in camp sites and in tent camps gather for these extreme competitions. They are attracted to this area by the thirst for unusual spectacles, and the desire to experience an unusual emotional upsurge.
In total, there are several dozen climbing walls of varying complexity in Crimea. Climbing is becoming more and more popular, winning both the hearts and minds of its fans. There will always be restless people who are ready to give up the blessings of civilization at least for a while and go to the mountains to test themselves and explore the unexplored corners of nature. Their name is tourists. Any trip, one way or another, is associated with some risk. Sports tourism involves risk, but after all, any trip, one way or another, is associated with some risk. Climbing is not for the faint of heart. This is an occupation for those who have a strong body, unbending will and amazing composure. In a word, rock climbing is a sport of leaders. Those who, once having overcome fear and uncertainty, will never allow their triumph over them.
The term "Small Mountains" was introduced by the outstanding climber of the USSR and Russia, ZMS, ZT of the USSR V.M. Abalakov in the article "Great opportunities for small mountains", published in the collection "Defeated Peaks". The "Small Mountains" include rocky mountains and peaks up to 3000 m high: most of the Western and Eastern Sayans, Crimea, numerous mountains of Siberia and the Far East. There are also many rocky mountains in the world of low absolute height with similar climbing conditions: the fjords of Norway, the Tatras, the Carpathians (Romania), most of the Pyrenees (Spain), the mountains of California (USA), etc.
Climbing in such mountains differs significantly from classical mountaineering to peaks above 3000 m. On routes of the same category of difficulty in the Big Mountains and, for example, in the Crimea, the complexity of rocky areas is significantly different. So, on a typical Caucasian 2B, the complexity of the rocks is not higher than class III, and on the former 1B (now 2B) "Telezhenko-left" on Forkant - the key is Fr 5с+. Most of the year in the Crimea, the routes are dry rocky, allowing you to move in climbing shoes.
Mountaineering in the Crimea occupies a borderline position between classical mountaineering and classical (not sports) rock climbing. The automatic transfer of the existing climbing system based on the Rules for Alpine Activities, climber training programs, instructor training programs, etc. to the Crimea leads to dangerous consequences. For example:
1. The rules for conducting AM provide
(clause 3.3.) The maximum number of training departments:
for climbing 1B - 10 people, if all participants are over 18 years old (in other cases - 6 people);
On the example of the route "Surprise" 1B k.sl. to the top of Merdvenkaya in the Crimea (the length of the route is 5 pitches, easy descent to the beginning in 10-15 minutes) you can see that with ten participants and an instructor, moving in bundles of two people, the first participants manage to go down to the starting point before they start work last link. In this case, the instructor loses control over the actions of the participants on a difficult rocky terrain (individual sections up to grade 5a). As a result, most instructors mark the route with railings, along which the group climbs to the top, which minimizes the educational effect of such an ascent.
(clause 4.2.2.) To make the first ascents 3A-5A of the difficulty category, the participant of the climbing event must complete the appropriate training cycle of classes according to the "Climber Training Program ..." and have experience in climbing the route of the previous semi-category of difficulty.
A sports group (second-rate) with experience in climbing 3B in Bezengi or Alaarcha arrives in Crimea and is released for climbing 4A class. to the top of Merdvenkaya along the route "Carnival". They met all the requirements of the curriculum and the Rules. But their rock training is not higher than 4 class, and on routes 4A class. in the Crimea, sections passable “with their own insurance”, difficulty Fr 6a-6b, which makes such an ascent dangerous.
The reverse side of this paragraph of the Rules: having made rock climbs 4A and 4B grades in Crimea. the participant acquires the right to enter the route 5A class, incl. ice-snow, or high-altitude.
2. The curriculum for the training of climbers provides for the requirement for the level of preparation for climbing 2A-2B class to move confidently and reliably on rocky terrain of 1-2 categories of difficulty in combinations and the first in a combination in separate sections of the 3rd category of complexity;
In the Crimea, on the routes of this category, where the complexity of the sections is up to 5c (fr), with such a level of climbing, participants cannot overcome the route (the curriculum at the NP stage does not provide for climbing of such complexity).
Compliance with the norms of the second sports category, after which the participants can walk independently, requires training at a significantly lower level of complexity of the sections on the routes of the fourth category in the Crimea (6a-6b):
confidently and clearly work in conjunction on a rocky terrain of the 3rd category of complexity;
be the first to overcome separate sections of rocky relief of the 4th category of difficulty;
3. The regulation on instructors-methodologists in mountaineering (which entered into force on September 1, 2016) provides for:
clause 4.1. Instructor of the department of the NP stage - "Instructor-methodologist of initial training", 2nd joint. discharge.
clause 2.1. Instructor-methodologist of initial training:
the level of individual technical training when driving with a lower insurance: on a rocky terrain not lower than 5a (fr.)
Working with the department on routes 2A-2B grade. in the Crimea, where the difficulty of sections is up to 5c+ (fr), the participants cannot overcome the route on their own (the curriculum at the NP stage does not provide for climbing such a difficulty). Combined with a squad size of 6, this puts the group in a dangerous position.
At the same time, the Crimean Mountains have been and remain attractive for climbers, who regularly hold numerous training and sports events here. Part of the ascents is made within the framework of classical mountaineering, part - in mountaineering competitions in the "rock class" discipline. According to the results of competitions of various ranks in the rock class, sports categories in mountaineering can be assigned (in accordance with the occupied place, but not for perfect ascents).
The rock class is a "full-time" discipline, judging is carried out at the competition venue. Therefore, in order to fulfill the rank norms in classical mountaineering (one Crimean ascent is allowed for offset), the majority of organizers of the normative qualification competitions are issued in "correspondence" disciplines: high-altitude and high-altitude technical classes, which for small mountains (including Crimean ones) - does not correspond to the concepts accepted about these classes of ascents.
Most specialists in educational work in mountaineering consider it necessary to train a climber up to 1 sports category, inclusive, as a generalist, working on all forms of mountainous terrain, without specialization. Therefore, it is impossible to exclude the Small Mountains from the peaks that are accepted for crediting for categories.
The way out of this situation is to create new (or correct old) FAR documents for the Small Mountains, regulating climbing in the Small Mountains and excluding the above inconsistencies:
Rules for conducting mountaineering activities in the Small Mountains (or additions to the current Rules)
- training programs for the preparation of climbers in the class of Small Mountains (or adjustment of the current Program)
- introduction of the specialization "Instructor-methodologist in mountaineering, specialization Rocky class" (with the right to work in the Small Mountains).
In the small mountains there are many features in the work of the instructor, which differ from the work of his work in the Big mountains:
The instructor must have a level of climbing that allows him to reliably (if necessary) lead the route. For work at the stage of the joint venture (climbing 3A-3B class) it is 6b-6c (on sports tracks) and 6a (trade).
Having such a level of climbing, the instructor must be able to bring the participants of the section to the same level for the possibility of their work as leaders of the combinations on the routes. To do this, he must have the necessary knowledge, which is not in the CSI program.
On training ascents, it is especially important to choose the place of the instructor in the training department, which allows not only to control the actions of all participants well, but also to quickly respond to dangerous situations in order to eliminate them. In the Big Mountains, most of the training ascent takes place while moving on a shortened rope. In the Crimea - in bundles for the entire length of the rope. The branch of three ligaments stretches for 150-180 m, which makes it difficult to control and guide their actions. The instructor must acquire the necessary additional knowledge in this area.
Depending on the level of training of the participants in the section, the instructor should be able to choose the most appropriate tactics for the movement of the ligaments and their interaction: autonomous movement of the ligaments (which gives the maximum training effect), leaving reliable points of insurance for subsequent ligaments in the most dangerous places, leaving a large number of such points for insufficient ropes moving confidently along the route, organization of top belay for individual participants or the whole group, etc. It is necessary to study various tactics and their choice depending on the preparedness of the participants in the training department.
Taking into account the peculiarities of the Small Mountains and the Crimean Mountains in particular, I propose:
1. Introduce for mountaineering instructors the specialization "Small Mountains - Rocky Class", according to which both new instructors (the program is attached) and (according to a shortened course) retrain old instructors.
2. Mass sports categories in the Rocky class should be allowed to be performed not only for places taken at competitions, but also for perfect ascents in the Small Mountains (introduce into EVSK)
Brief history and analysis of mountaineering in the Small Mountains of Crimea
The first ascents along the walls of the Crimea began in the fifties of the last century by individual climbers to prepare for ascents in the Big Mountains. They were not systemic in nature, and were committed on a case-by-case basis. With the advent of climbing and rock-climbing sections in the Crimea, such ascents were made more and more often. From the beginning of the sixties to the beginning of the seventies were passed on the walls of Ai-Petri:
5A Along the Central wall with a traverse Zubtsov, S. Frolov - V. Goncharov (Yalta) 1961
- 3B Along the South Ridge, V. Brazhkin - O. Grippa (Simferopol), 1963
- 4A "Plate", V. Kulyamin - V. Likhachev (Yalta), 1968
- 2A Along the SW ridge, V.Goncharov (Yalta) - O.Grippa (Simferopol), 1971
- 1B Along the Eastern couloir, O.Grippa (Simferopol), 1970
- 5B "Feathers", H. Kornys (Simferopol), 1971
and other routes to the walls of the Crimean mountains (1968, 6A Shaankaya, "Zenith", V. Pavlotos and team, Morcheka M. Kornys and V. Zasypkin 1971 and many others).
During this period, ascents were made mainly by residents of the Crimea. The style of these ascents is usually alpine, in twos and light. The basis for the preparation of the Crimeans for climbing was a high level of climbing thanks to year-round training on the rocks.
From the late sixties - early seventies, ascents in the Crimea began to be made by residents of other regions of the USSR: Dnepropetrovsk, Odessa, Kyiv, Kharkov, Moscow, Leningrad, etc. For the majority of climbers, such ascents were also of a training nature in preparation for ascents in the Big Mountains. Well-known teams went through complex wall “fives” and “sixes” (V. Monogarov, L. Kensitsky and their teams, the teams of Burevestnik, Spartak, Vodnik, and / k Odessa) to acquire similarity and special skills before climbing the wall routes in the Caucasus, the Pamirs, etc. The style of climbing these routes was influenced by the tactics of specialization and distribution of duties in the group that prevailed during this period, the movement of the group along the fixed ropes, fixed by the leader. Preparation for climbing was carried out in sections and clubs using the USSR Climber Training Curriculum and the achievements of team coaches.
With the birth, on the initiative of the Ukrainian SSR gostrainer G.I. Field Championship of Ukraine in the Small Mountains, a competitive stimulus appeared in the development of mountaineering on the Crimean walls. The most difficult routes of those years were passed on Morchek, Triangle, Shaankai, Celebi and other walls of the Crimea.
Initially, the classification of routes was not official; these routes were not included in the Classifier of routes to the mountain peaks of the USSR. Therefore, the pioneers in the Small Mountains, when determining the difficulty of the route, proceeded from the complexity of the route as a whole in comparison with similar routes in the Big Mountains. With this approach (route complexity = length x complexity of the sections), the complexity of the sections on the routes of the Crimea turned out to be higher than on similar (according to the classification) rocky routes of the Big Mountains.
Since the end of the sixties, there was another, not official, "wild" mountaineering in the Crimean mountains. Even "official" climbers - members of sections and clubs with ranks, went on routes outside of climbing events, without complying with the requirements of the Climbing Rules, training programs and other directive documents of the USSR Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. Ascents were not counted for the categories, but were made for pleasure, testing one's abilities and their limits. And they allowed, for example, a badge artist to pass the “troika” “forbidden” to him by the Rules, or even go to the “five” with a more experienced comrade. In a deuce, quickly and beautifully, and not a “locomotive” in a team!
Alpinists appeared who walked independently, outside the federation, and only in the Crimea. Naturally, no one was engaged in their preparation, knowledge and experience were acquired independently and from "senior", more experienced comrades. Among them were outstanding climbers Y. Lishaev ("Fantik"), S. Nadtochiy ("Terrorist"), M. Voloshanovsky ("Michel"), Ershov and others, who made many outstanding ascents. In the "wild" mountaineering, a system of training climbers has developed: joint ascents in a pair with a more experienced comrade, who, by his example and advice, "taught" mountaineering. And what is important: such training often gave a greater effect and faster growth.
And injuries among "wild" climbers turned out to be lower than in official events held by sections and clubs. The main reason for this was the psychological attitude: “My safety depends only on me!”, And as a result, increased attention and caution on the route. In "official" mountaineering, the responsibility for safety lies with the instructor, the participants trust him and rely on him completely, losing independence in decision-making in critical situations.
Training of climbers in the class "Small mountains" (rock class)
When developing normative documents for training climbers in the "Small Mountains" class, it is necessary to take into account that:
1. The complexity of the rocks on the routes of one category in the Crimea is much higher than in the Big Mountains. So on the usual rocky route 1B, the maximum difficulty of the rocky sections is no more than 2 class, and on the Crimean "one" - F5a-5b class. Therefore, it is not permissible to train climbers in this class according to the training programs for the Big Mountains, where in the main period (in the mountains) at the NP1 stage, only five hours are given to individual rock movement technique, and the rocks are simple (1-2 grades) and medium difficulty (3 class).
2. The quantitative composition of the group in the Small Mountains must be less than provided for the branches in the Big Mountains. So at the NP1 stage in the Big Mountains, a department of 10 people (plus an instructor) is allowed, i.e. five bundles of two people. Rocky routes 1B in large mountains allow the instructor to control the safety and actions of a squad of 10 people, because. most of the route the team passes simultaneously on a shortened rope. On the Crimean one, the simultaneous movement of the squad is almost impossible, and with alternate insurance, the squad of 10 people (5 ropes) stretches for 250-300 m, i.e. the first one is already reaching the summit, and the last one has not started the route yet. At the same time, it is practically impossible for the instructor to control the actions of the participants and their safety. Therefore, at the stages of NP, the composition of the department should be no more than two teams (4-5 people), in all other cases - no more than one team (2-3 people).
Considering all of the above, the following concept of preparing climbers for climbing in the Small Mountains is proposed:
1. Climbing style in the Crimea should correspond to the generally accepted in other low mountains of the World: Tatras, Norway, California, Dolomites, etc. These are climbing in pairs - two, preferably - free climbing. The use of railings by the community is frowned upon.
2. The basis for the preparation and then successful safe ascents in the Crimea are year-round systematic rock climbing as an element and direction of mountaineering. Such training requires the use of climbing on sports and traditional routes, movement to aid, drytooling and other types of rock climbing.
3. The main part of the training should take place in the preparatory period. It is impossible to teach climbing at a high level in a short time in the mountains. In the main period, it is correct to limit yourself to the control of the level of training with recommendations based on the results of control of the complexity of the upcoming ascents.
4. Since the ascents at the SP and SS stages must be performed in pairs, the instructor does not participate in the ascent. On the first ascents of a new category of complexity, an athlete is led by a more experienced comrade who leads the route, is the leader, as opposed to his partner - the follower. To stimulate interest in such a training system, it is necessary to supplement the category standards with the requirements for climbing by the leader and follower (see Appendix 1).
5. The role of the instructor in such a system is in the full, versatile preparation of the climber for the safe completion of the ascent, checking this readiness and issuing recommendations for the ascent.
M.A. Sitnik, MSMK, instr. I cat.
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The Crimean peninsula is a rock-climbing Mecca known to many, where everyone can find a route according to their strengths and tastes, regardless of the level of professionalism. This rocky area is one of the most attractive, easily accessible and exciting in terms of sports due to the wide variety of rocks, the presence of the sea and favorable weather conditions dictated by the mild southern climate.
Rock climbing firmly established itself in the Crimea at the same time as the dawn of Soviet mountaineering, but in the sports direction, the potential for the development of the region is only a small part of it. The mountains of this region are rich in hard rocks, which in turn is favorable for laying new routes of various levels of difficulty.
This climbing area is located 3 km from Yalta, and is a clear example of the power of nature over the landscape. The height of the sheer walls is 25-30 meters, the length of the cleft from east to west is about 200 meters. The rocks will delight rock climbing enthusiasts with interesting hooked routes from category 4 to 8c+, of which there are about 90.
| № | Name | Length | Qty. from. | Category |
| Sector A | ||||
| 1 | Scam | 17 | 8 | 6b+ |
| 2 | ratchet | 16 | 8 | 6a |
| 3 | Goliath | 19 | 10 | 6c |
| 4 | Fandanga | 22 | 10 | 7c |
| 5 | Repeat | 22 | 11 | 7a |
| 6 | hype | 15 | 8 | 6b |
| 7 | Marilyn | 26 | 13 | 7a+ |
| 8 | Limpopo | 14 | 8 | 6b |
| 9 | Wise | 19 | 10 | 7c+ |
| 10 | Wanderer | 19 | 11 | 8a |
| 11 | Union | 18 | 10 | 6c+ |
| 12 | Esaul | 27 | 14 | 8a |
| 13 | Asteroid | 25 | 12 | 6c+ |
| 14 | Chameleon | 24 | 12 | 7a |
| 15 | Agate | 25 | 11 | 6b+ |
| 16 | Balm for the soul | 22 | 13 | 6c |
| 17 | Gusto | 21 | 11 | 7a |
| 18 | Indiana Jones | 21 | 11 | 6b+ |
| 19 | tomboy | 22 | 12 | 6b+ |
| 20 | Matador | 14 | 8 | 8c+ |
| 21 | Centaur | 15 | 8 | 8b+ |
| 22 | Fantastic | 16 | 8 | 8a+ |
| 23 | Pilgrim | 26 | 13 | 7c |
| 24 | Caravan | 26 | 12 | 7b |
| 25 | Nerve | 27 | 13 | 7a |
| № | Name | Length | Qty. from. | Category |
| Sector B | ||||
| 1 | Aboriginal | 27 | 14 | 6b+ / 7a+ |
| 2 | king of the hill | 27 | 12 | 6c |
| 3 | Scythian | 26 | 13 | 8b+ |
| 4 | Squadron | 25 | 11 | 8a |
| 5 | Helicopter | 21 | 10 | 7c |
| 6 | Machine kiss | 19 | 9 | 6b+ |
| 7 | Quarry | 19 | 10 | 6c+ |
| 8 | on a horse | 23 | 11 | 7c+ |
| 9 | Anniversary | 22 | 11 | 7a |
| 10 | Benefit | 22 | 11 | 7a |
| 11 | Don't throw grandma into the nettle | 22 | 11 | 7c |
| 12 | Last Rollout | 20 | 10 | 7a / 7b |
| 13 | Monkey | 20 | 9 | 6b+ |
| 14 | Daredevil Pashka | 19 | 9 | 8a |
| 15 | love games | 18 | 10 | 7a+ |
| 16 | Breeze | 17 | 8 | 8a+ |
| 17 | Clown | 16 | 9 | 7b |
| 18 | Mowgli | 15 | 8 | 7a |
| 19 | call of the jungle | 13 | 6 | 6b+ |
| № | Name | Length | Qty. from. | Category |
| Sector C | ||||
| 1 | Thorn | 5 | 3 | |
| 2 | Tile | 9 | 5 | |
| 3 | Myth | 10 | 6 | |
| 4 | red fox | 25 | 13 | 7a |
| 5 | little vampire | 16 | 8 | 6c+ |
| 6 | American Gregory | 21 | 11 | 7a |
| 7 | Abyss | 19 | 11 | 8 ? |
| 8 | North Pole | 20 | 11 | 5a |
| 9 | Bastion | 20 | 11 | 5b |
| 10 | Painter | 21 | 11 | 5b |
| 11 | Firefly | 18 | 10 | 5b |
| 12 | Cornice | 5 | 3 | |
| 13 | 9 | 5 | ||
| 14 | Kant | 5 | 3 | |
| 15 | 6 | 4 | ||
| 16 | KONG | 19 | 9 | 5s |
| 17 | Pinery | 18 | 9 | 5b |
| 18 | Fresh breeze | 15 | 7 | 4 |
| 19 | Chafer | 15 | 7 | 4 |
| № | Name | Length | Qty. from. | Category |
| Sector D "North" | ||||
| 1 | Nuf-nuf | 13 | 8 | 6a+ |
| 2 | Naf-naf | 13 | 10 | 5s |
| 3 | Nif-nif | 13 | 9 | 5s |
| "West" | ||||
| 1 | King Kong | 16 | 8 | 7b+ |
| 2 | Big lever | 16 | 8 | 7c |
| 3 | Adjustment lever | 15 | 7 | 7c+ |
| "South" | ||||
| 4 | twists of fate | 14 | 7 | 7b |
| 5 | Philosopher | 13 | 7 | 6b+ |
| 6 | Crimean gecko | 12 | 8 | 6b |
| 7 | Chit | 12 | 6 | 6a |
| 8 | Chimera | 12 | 6 | 6a |
"Nikita" is the most popular "climbing wall" on natural terrain in the Crimea, in connection with which many routes have already become worn out and slippery. In addition to such advantages as the proximity of the sectors to each other, a huge number of tracks of various difficulty categories, a variety of terrain and convenient belay places, this rocky area attracts climbers with its advantageous exposure. The sun here always warms the walls, leaving some of the slopes in the shade, so climbing is possible at any time of the year.
Rock "Cat" (Simeiz)
This rocky area is located on the territory of the village of Simeiz, 14 km from Yalta. The height of the peak, which got its name because of the similarity in profile with the sleeping pet of the same name, reaches 254 meters. The village itself is located on the warm southern slopes of the main ridge of the Crimean Mountains, in connection with which it is of great interest to climbers and climbers. On foot you can immediately get to 3 climbing areas: mountain "Cat", rocks "Swan's Wing", "Diva".
Climbing routes here are sharp and prickly, which is due to the peculiarities of the rock. Such rocks enable athletes to quickly change from climbing on artificial terrain to natural. In the lower part of the mountain, the tracks have a more positive slope, in the upper part they become the most vertical.
| № | Route name | Category (F) | Length / Guys |
| 1 | Musya | 7a | 19 / 12 |
| 2 | Navel | 7b | 18 / 9 |
| 3 | The taste of enlightenment | 7a | 25 |
| 4 | Samadhi | 7b | |
| 5 | Stopper | 7b+ | 21 / 11 |
| 6 | genre crisis | 7c+ | 21 |
| 7 | Rock | 7c | 21 |
| 8 | Ass | 7b | 21 / 11 |
| 9 | Vane | 7a | 20 / 11 |
| 10 | Lady F | 7a+ | 27 / 14 |
| 11 | angel heart | 7a+ | 26 / |
| 12 | Albatross | 6b+ | 13 / 6 |
| 13 | Gunar left | 7a | 26 / 14 |
| 14 | Gunar is right | 7a+ | 26 / 15 |
| 15 | Herve's riddle | 7c+ | 26 |
| 16 | Classic | 7b | 26 |
| 17 | Stage 88 | 6c+ | 25 / 17 |
In addition, among rock climbing fans, the Fear Factor multipitch is considered popular, the height of which is 115 meters. It consists of 4 tracks, difficulty category from 5c to 6c+. All tracks are located in close proximity to the sea, so you can always hear the splashing of waves and the cries of seagulls.
"Red Stone" (Kyzyl-Tash)
The rocky area "Red Stone" is located on the southern coast of the peninsula, near the village of Krasnokamenka. The name of the hill was due to the fact that in the sun it becomes incredibly beautiful, acquires an orange-red color. The stone here consists of marble limestone.
The height of the rock is about 430 meters. The area will delight fans of mountaineering and rock climbing with more than 100 routes, the difficulty category of which varies between 5-8.
| № | Name | Length | Qty. cr. | Category |
| Sector A "Fridge" | ||||
| 1 | rocky | 8 | 7 | 5 |
| 2 | Magpie | 10 | 11 | 5 |
| 3 | Nut | 19 | 11 | 5 |
| 4 | Cannabis | 20 | 10 | 6 |
| 5 | — | 23 | 12 | 6 |
| 6 | — | 14 | 8 | 6 |
| 7 | — | 11 | 8 | 6 |
| 8 | skiff | 9 | 6 | 5 |
| 9 | Eh-ma | 8 | 6s | |
| 10 | Liana | 7 | 7a | |
| 11 | Cellulite | 7 | 6b+ | |
| 12 | bungee | 8 | 6s+ |
| № | Name | Length | Qty. cr. | Category |
| Sector B "West" | ||||
| 1 | Practitioner | 7 | 7b+ | |
| 2 | Fiesta | 8 | ||
| 3 | Comrade nose | 8 | ||
| 4 | Dreamer | 8 | 6b | |
| 5 | tiptoe dance | 8 | 7c+ | |
| 6 | Jitters | 7 | 8a | |
| 7 | Scorpion | 7 | 7b+ | |
| 8 | Alexis | 19 | 9 | 8a |
| 9 | May be | 25 | 12 | 7b |
| 10 | Fairway | 17 | 9 | 6b+ |
| 11 | shrek | 25 | 13 | 7a+ |
| 12 | Gulliver | 27 | 15 | 6c |
| № | Name | Length | Qty. cr. | Category |
| Sector C "Main part" | ||||
| 1 | A parallel world | 8b+ | ||
| 2 | Time "H" | 8a | ||
| 3 | Thistle | 8b | ||
| 4 | Flutter | 8a+ | ||
| 5 | Haymaking | 7c+ | ||
| 6 | Master test | 8a | ||
| 7 | Kadavr | 7c/8a | ||
| 8 | JUMP | 7c+ | ||
| 9 | Both on | 7c/8a | ||
| 10 | boat | 7b+ | ||
| 11 | Demon | 7c | ||
| 12 | Satellite | 7c | ||
| 13 | Salo | 6b | ||
| 14 | Airplane | 6a | ||
| 14-15 | T. Athletic | 7b | ||
| 15 | Abnormal | 7b | ||
| 18 | World | 6c | ||
| 19 | N. Mir | 6b | ||
| 20 | Longboat | 6b | ||
| 21 | third pole | 6a | ||
| 23 | Koningsberg | 7c+ | ||
| 24 | New Konengsberg | 8a | ||
| 25 | A Taste of Honey | 7c+ | ||
| 26 | Question | 7b | ||
| 27 | dump truck | 7c | ||
| 28 | Catapult | 7c | ||
| 29 | Poltergeist | 7c | ||
| 30 | Telekinesis | 7b | ||
| 31 | Tsunami | 8a | ||
| 32 | Martin | 8a | ||
| 33 | Cascade | 7a | ||
| 34 | Smoked | 7b | ||
| 35 | Arap of Peter the Great | 7c/8a |
| № | Name | Length | Qty. cr. | Category |
| Sector D "Southern" | ||||
| 1 | Camel | 10 | 7b | |
| 2 | Parrot | 13 | 6a | |
| 3 | Siberian legend | 11 | 6c | |
| 4 | Bangkok | 12 | 6b+ | |
| 5 | Collective sin | 15 | 7a+ | |
| 6 | Flyer | 8 | 7b | |
| 7 | Joy | 7b | ||
| 8 | Hong-gil-dong | 8 | 6c | |
| 9 | Nest | 8 | 6a | |
| 10 | Lemonade Joe | 8 | ||
| 11 | Folklore | |||
| 12 | Come in | 7 | ||
| 13 | Octave | 8 | ||
| 14 | Beginez | 7 | 5 |
| № | 13Name | Length | Qty. cr. | Category |
| Sector E "Grey tiles" | ||||
| 1 | Grey Wolf | 14 | ||
| 2 | Babsky coils | 14 | ||
| 3 | Matrix | 10 | ||
| 4 | Viy | 12 | ||
| 5 | Sarumyan | 15 | ||
| 6 | Aviator | 14 | 7a | |
| 7 | Ginger | 13 | ||
| 8 | 14 | |||
| 9 | Gülich | 25 | 12 | 8s |
| 10 | Tram | 23 | 11 | 7 |
| 11 | Woodlouse | 20 | 12 | 7 |
| 12 | water world | 17 | 8 |
| № | Name | Length | Qty. cr. | Category |
| Sector F "Iron" | ||||
| 1 | female spirit | 17 | 9 | 7a |
| 2 | Reggie | 17 | 9 | 6a |
| 3 | Bank | 16 | 8 | 6b |
| 4 | splash | 22 | 13 | 7a |
| 5 | On sight three times | 26 | 13 | 6b+ / 7a |
| 6 | Center | 25 | 11 | 6b |
| 7 | Through thorns | 25 | 13 | 6a |
| 8 | Gendof | 19 | 9 | 6 |
| 9 | viking | 25 | 13 | 7a |
| 10 | Feint | 19 | 10 | 6b |
| 11 | Pervert | 14 | 7 | 6a |
| 12 | Cheesecake | 13 | 7 | 5a |
| 13 | Symbiosis | 13 | 8 | 6a+ |
| 14 | Yetty | 12 | 7 | |
| 15 | Siberiada | 11 | 6 |
One of the additional advantages of the Red Stone rock is the ability to hide from the sun in hot weather or be warm in the winter season, since the sectors are arranged in a circle. There is also a mountain spring here, which allows everyone to camp literally at the foot, without experiencing problems from water shortages.
Cape "Sarych"
This rocky area is located at the southernmost point of the Crimean peninsula: about 40 km from Yalta and 30 km from Sevastopol. All rocky sectors are located above the south coast highway, the main one is located directly behind the bus stop of the locality. The height of the cliffs of Cape "Sarych" reaches 30 meters. Most of the routes here have an average and high levels Difficulty: from 5 to 9.
The wall behind the stop "Cape Sarych"
| № | Route name | Category (F) | Length / Guys |
| 1 | Turbo | 6s+ | / 6 |
| 2 | Bloody Mary | 7b | / 5 |
| 3 | Crimean night | 6a+ | / 7 |
| 4 | Dream | 6a | / 6 |
| 5 | Chippolino | 6b | / 8 |
| 6 | Tootsie | 6s | / 7 |
| 7 | epic | 7b | / 8 |
| 8 | Extreme style | 7s | / 10 |
| 9 | Step | 7b | / 6 |
| 10 | Flying Dutchman | 6c+ | / 6 |
| № | Route name | Category (F) | Length / Guys |
| 1 | Splashes of champagne | 7a | / 8 |
| 2 | Tuzik | 6a | / 10 |
| 3 | efa | 7a+ | / 12 |
| 4 | Conglomerate | 7b | / 12 |
| 5 | Pin | 7c | / 11 |
| 6 | Maple Leaf | 7a | / 10 |
| 7 | Cholera (Letter "Zu") | 7c | / 8 |
| 8 | windy boulevard / * / | 6c | / 11 |
| 9 | ??? / * / | 7b | / 11 |
| 10 | smok / ! / | 6c+ | / 8 |
| 11 | Baby | 7a+ | / 7 |
| 12 | 6c+ | / 9 | |
| 13 | Grin / ! * / | 6b+ | / 7 |
| 14 | Picasso | 6b | / 6 |
| 14a | Goodnight | 6b | |
| 15 | Good morning | 6a | / 5 |
| 16 | Dinosaur | 6a+ | / 6 |
| 17 | Zuckerka | 6a | / 4 |
| 18 | The mirror of one's heart | 6b+ | / 5 |
| 19 | La-la-fa | 6b+ | / 4 |
In the canyon "Refrigerator"
| № | Route name | Category (F) | Length / Guys |
| 1 | — | 6c+ | / 13 |
| 2 | Large copper eggs | 7b | / 12 |
| 3 | Cobra | 7a+ | / 12 |
| 4 | Cheshire Cat | 7a | / 12 |
| 4a | — | 7b | / 12 |
| 6 | Rose | 7b+ | / 13 |
There are not many places left on the territory of the Crimean peninsula where nature is still undeveloped by man, but this rocky area is one of such places.
"Bakhchisaray"
Bakhchisarai is located in the depths of the Crimean peninsula, between Sevastopol and Yalta, not on the sea coast. Such rocky areas as "Pillars", "Blood Balka", "Stadium", "Southern Staroselie" and "Northern Staroselie" are located in the Salachik Gorge. This is a valley, the length of which is about 2 km, and the vertical walls reach a height of 40 meters.
The rock here is peculiar - "Crimean limestone", they basically have not a sharp, but a sloping shape. Rock-climbers of any skill level will find relief in Bakhchisaray to their liking: long overhangs, cornices of varying degrees of difficulty and vertical routes. The route category varies from 4b to 8c. More than 130 tracks are hooked. This region is constantly actively developing due to the emergence of new routes and the restoration of old ones.
"Bloody beam"
- "Girls' rock n roll" 7v 18/11
- Lizard 7а+ 18\10
- "Black Hobbit" 7v 17\10
- "Spider" 7v+ 17\10
- "Na Khokhla" 7c 17/10
- "Anabolic" 7а 16\10
- Figaro 7a 14\10
- Pluto 6v+ 14\10
Stand-alone pole (to the left of the main ones)
- "Halava" 6s 12m \ 9 from.
- "Last Coupon" 6v 10\8
Sectors "Stadium"
Sectors of Southern Staroselye
Sectors of "Northern Staroselye"
Bakhchisaray is one of the largest climbing areas of the Crimean peninsula, which is available for climbing throughout the year. The only obstacle will be only July and August, because the weather is too hot, when climbing is possible only in the early morning or late evening.
Rocks "Laspi"
This rocky area is located on the border of Sevastopol and the main ridge of the Crimean mountains. The Laspi rocks are a steep-walled relief and a special microclimate formed by the ridges. They are a unique monument of nature, consisting of Upper Jurassic limestone, about 620 meters high above sea level. The steepness of most slopes is 30-45 degrees.
| № | Route name | Category (F) | Length / Guys |
| 1 | Zhunka left | 7b | / 14 |
| 2 | Apanas (Zhunka right) | 7c | / 12 |
| 3 | America Columbus | 7c+ | / 10 |
| 4 | Waterfall | 7c+ | / 8 |
| 5 | A happy ending | 7b+ | / 10+4 |
| 6 | Mountaineer's dreams | 6a+ | / 9 |
| 7 | Windsurfing | 7a | / 6 |
| 8 | Crusade | 7a | / 10 |
| 9 | Haymaking | 7a+ | / 10 |
| 10 | Variable speed drive | 6b+ | 22 / 9 |
| 11 | Samrat | 6c+ | 21 / 10 |
| 12 | Solfeggio | 6c+ | 21 / 11 |
| 13 | St. Petersburg | 7a | 21 / 10 |
| 14 | Corkscrew | 7a | 17 / 11 |
| 15 | chocolate bar | 6c | 10 / 5 |
| 16 | Greg Boulevard | 6c+ | 9 / 5 |
| 17 | Qualifying | 7b | / 13 |
| 18 | mournful moo | 7a | 13 / 10 |
| 19 | constellation love | 6b+ | 17 / 9 |
| 20 | Finigret left | 6c | 13 / 6 |
| 20a | Finigret right | 5s | / 7 |
Rock "Sail" (White Fang)
The rock "Sail" is located near the village of Foros, if you move from Sevastopol. Along the edges of this vertex, a huge number of multi-pitches are laid, the complexity of which is within 4c-6b. The height for lifting reaches 150 meters.
Rock "Alim"
This rocky area, popular in the past, is located near Yalta; it breaks off in the south with a smooth sheer monolithic wall of 75 meters. It was here that in 1995 the 1st USSR championship in sport climbing was held.
- "Kustovsky - 95" 7b+ /11
- Tongues 7a+ /11
- "Time Limit" 6s /13
- "Zigzag of luck" 7a
The routes are mostly on the bottom of the rock itself, and involve very technical climbing, which is largely done through friction and proper footwork. The rock mass "Alim" is constantly developing, new routes appear here and old ones are updated.
You can literally engage in active rock climbing on the territory of Crimea: a ridge runs along the peninsula, and steep rocky areas are easy to find on the coast. This location is considered to be an excellent place among rock climbers, both for training beginners and for preparing professionals for the most difficult ascents.
What should be the level of skill and physical data for rock climbing? For rock climbing, it is not necessary to have special physical data and skills at the initial stage. This may sound strange, but that's the way it is. For rock climbing, it is more important to know and be able to use techniques. Often on the rocks you can see how a fragile girl who cannot pull herself up once, climbs where a guy who pulls himself up ten times cannot climb even a meter. There is only one reason, the girl has knowledge of technology, but the guy does not. Because the main thing on the rocks is the ability to use the legs, not the hands. Therefore, rock climbing is available to everyone from children to the elderly. But in any case, good physical training will always help you climb. What should be the psychological preparation? Psychologically, you need to be ready for heights, i.e. not be afraid to climb to a height of 15 meters above the ground. At first, it can be a little daunting, but gradually everyone gets used to it and adapts. The feeling of height can get in the way and restrict when climbing and you need to be prepared for this. What is the most important thing for climbing? For 100% success you need: knowledge of climbing technique, physical condition, good weather and your desire. What is the best time to climb the rocks? People go to Crimea at any time of the year, but the most comfortable for climbing and hiking are spring and autumn. It is cold in Crimea in winter, and too hot in summer. How many members are usually in a group? On average, groups consist of 4 people. The maximum number of participants is up to 9 people. Where is the best place to get insurance? Although rock climbing is considered the safest outdoor activity (even hiking is more dangerous), it is necessary to take out insurance for the period of the trip, it is better to take out insurance at the place of residence. Usually, it is inexpensive (around 1200 rubles). When applying, be sure to take into account: specify who is the assistance company (service company that deals with all organizational issues on the spot) of the insurance company where you arrange insurance. We do not recommend applying if the assist is - GLOBAL VOYAGER; when filling out the policy, in the "occupation" (or "sports") field, be sure to indicate - mountaineering or rock climbing; the insurance policy must ensure the transportation of the victim (be sure to specify this when issuing the policy); insurance companies (Russia) that have good feedback climbers and climbers insurance experience: RESO, Surgutneftegaz, Uralsib, Sogaz, Soglasie, Yugoria Where will they meet us? How do we get to the rocks? We meet all participants at the railway station in Simferopol. Then we go by minibus to the rocks. There are many areas where you can climb in Crimea, so we go either to Sudak or Krasnokamenka, depending on the wishes of the participants. The road to Sudak takes about 3 hours, to Krasnokamenka about 2.5 hours. You must arrive at the railway station before 18:00. If your train arrives late, please let us know so that we can resolve this issue individually. Is there a place to store things? There is a place to store things. There you can leave "urban" things and so on. We recommend not to take suitcases with you, you can fit everything in a backpack. If necessary, it is better to take a large bag. Where will we live? Accommodation is provided in a guesthouse. There is a shower and all amenities for a comfortable stay. Can I use a credit card or do I need to have cash? You must have cash. There are ATMs, but sometimes there are situations when it takes about an hour to get to the nearest ATM. How much money should you have with you just in case? We recommend having a reserve of money for unforeseen situations of at least 3,000 rubles. How many kilograms will the backpack that I will be wearing weigh? A backpack is needed only for carrying equipment and a snack with water, so we will not walk with it much. On average, the weight of a backpack will be about 6 kg. How should I dress? You need to focus on a temperature of about +15 degrees. Clothing should be comfortable and not restrict movement while climbing. For rocks, we recommend having clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty. Also provide rain clothes - a jacket and a cape for a backpack. You can write to us if you have any questions about the choice of clothing or equipment, we will help and advise you. What equipment do I need to have? The list above contains a list of necessary equipment and clothing. If you only want to use your own equipment, we can provide recommendations on how to choose it. We will send a detailed list of clothes and equipment before the trip. The most important piece of equipment is rock shoes. Without them, it is inconvenient to climb the rocks and it is difficult to learn the climbing technique. How will we eat? Meals are included in the price of the program. After the meeting of all participants, we buy food for the entire period of the program. If necessary, you can always buy additional products in local stores. During the tour, you do not need to cook. How is the departure planned? The departure of participants to the station takes place on the date set in the tour (for example, the dates are 01.05 - 04.05, which means that we will meet you at the railway station on 01.05, and the departure from the mountains will take place on 04.05). The time is most often agreed upon with all participants, usually we focus on the participant who has the earliest departure time for the train or plane.
Today in Crimea there are tours for beginners and pros in climbing. This word came into our language and firmly settled in it: climbing in translation from English is rock climbing. But since our domestic athletes often perform on the international climbing scene, they are used to using international terms. The same athletes organize climbing tours in the Crimea. The price includes full support, equipment, instruction. Under the guidance of such guides, the first steps on the rocks are not at all scary!What rocks are the most popular in Crimea? Almost all, because the extreme fantasy knows no bounds! But there are also official routes approved at the level of the local Ministry of Tourism. A striking example is Via Ferrata, near Simferopol. it perfect place for training beginners and adjusting the skills of those who no longer consider themselves a beginner.