Nizhny Novgorod Encyclopedia. Nizhny Novgorod. Along the Lower Bazaar The building on Markin Square
Deceived equity holders of "Kvartstroy" gathered for another rally. The action began with the erection of a monument to "bureaucrats" dedicated to the 10th anniversary of the Residential Complex "European Quarter".
The sculpture was called by equity holders "Chinusha and unfinished construction". According to their idea, it symbolizes the indifference of the authorities to the problem of abandoned construction sites. The medal “10 years together” was solemnly hung around the official’s neck - it was 10 years ago that Kvartstroy received permission to build the first houses of the Residential Complex “European Quarter”. According to the information of the initiative group, the army of defrauded equity holders in Nizhny Novgorod numbers about 10 thousand citizens - this is the population of a small town.
To date, we do not see any positive developments. Roadmaps, which were announced as salvation, did not even begin to be discussed with the participants in shared construction, - said Olga Davydova, a representative of the initiative group of equity holders of the Evropeisky Quarter Residential Complex. - These documents, despite numerous requests from equity holders, continue to contain inaccurate information about the number of affected citizens, some houses of our residential complexes are not included in the lists of problematic objects, the document does not contain either deadlines or those responsible for the work, and even more so information about the participation of initiative groups of equity holders in each of the stages. Thus, it is obvious that everything that the Ministry of Construction reports Nizhny Novgorod region, is unreliable, the actions are formal.
Shareholders talk about the indifference of all branches of government to their problems. At the beginning of the week, a major meeting was held in the Legislative Assembly of the Nizhny Novgorod Region. In words, everyone supported the victims and demanded a solution to the problem. In fact, they talked and parted ways. The defrauded equity holders officially invited the first persons of the city and the region, deputies of all levels to their action, but no one came.
Shareholders during the rally outlined the following requirements:
- working roadmaps indicating all the houses of each residential complex, deadlines and responsible for each of the stages;
- inclusion of all equity holders in the register and not declaratively, as is happening now, but according to the USRR register;
- participation of representatives of initiative groups consisting of 3-4 people from each LCD in the discussion of all issues related to measures to complete the construction of houses;
- allocation of funding and planning for the completion and commissioning of the facilities of the indicated housing estates in accordance with the principle of priority for concluding contracts.
The event, although it was agreed, was not without arrests. The police escorted five protesters to the police station, who were holding a banner with a hint of obscene language. The detainees were released after a conversation without a protocol, and the banner was sent for examination.
Meanwhile, the message of the regional Ministry of Construction that two houses of the residential complex "European Quarter" - No. 6-5 ("Athens") and No. 6-6 ("Naples") - and will be commissioned before the end of the year, was confirmed by the representative of the initiative group Alexander Oskirko . Houses .
In fact, we have not achieved the completion of the construction of our houses either from the developer or from the authorities. We were lucky to be able to help ourselves - due to a fairly high degree of readiness of houses and a relatively (very relatively) favorable set of circumstances, - Alexander Oskirko told an NN.RU correspondent. - Unfortunately, our case is the exception rather than the rule.
Hello everyone and welcome to the pages of the Easy-to-Rise blog.
Today we are waiting for another walk around the glorious Nizhny Novgorod. Rozhdestvenskaya Street is a unique piece of history that has been preserved in our city. If we compare Rozhdestvenskaya Street with, then both do not hold “historicity”, but the atmosphere is completely different. Pokrovka is noisy and cheerful, while Rozhdestvenskaya is quiet and calm. Old, black and white photos will definitely complement today's story, but in addition to this, I also dug up a work of art with views of Rozhdestvenskaya Street. Make yourself comfortable and don't forget tea and buns). Rozhdestvenskaya also did not escape the fate of renaming. In Soviet times, the street was called in honor of the poet Mayakovsky (Mayakovka among the people).
In the 19th century, these places were called Nizhny Posad, and a little later, Nizhny Bazaar.
A walk along Rozhdestvenskaya Street traditionally starts from the National Unity Square. It was here that Kuzma Minin called on the people's militia. Relatively recently, in 2005, a copy of the famous sculpture from Red Square was installed on the square.
Progress reached Nizhny Novgorod as well. Almost every attraction has a QR code. You can scan it on the spot and read information about any object.
The large, red building on the right side of the sculpture is the famous Bugrovskaya rooming house. Remember Maxim Gorky's play "At the Bottom"? It was her who was described by the writer in a famous work.
The photo above shows the Ivanovskaya Tower. Near it was Millionka, the poor flocked here in search of work. In the rooming house every day you could get bread and boiling water.
In the old photo, you can see the rules of conduct that are written right on the facade of the building: “Do not drink vodka. Do not sing songs. Be quiet."
I understand that the photographer captured the fight.
Nochlezhka today.
Immediately behind the Bugrovs' rooming house, under the walls of the Kremlin, you will see an old elevator. The funicular connected two tram lines: Rozhdestvenskaya and Bolshaya Pokrovskaya. No electrical miracle was used in those days. The elevator worked by gravity. A special container was placed in each car. If the car was at the top, then the container was filled with water and, at the same time, in the car that needs to be raised, the water was drained. The top car lowered, raising the bottom one.
That's how it was.
To the left of the sculpture of Minin and Pozharsky is the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist. The temple has a difficult fate. At one time there was a club and an automoto school. Under the Soviet regime, the bell towers and domes were demolished, and the facade was mutilated.
Since 1994, the church began to be restored and in the fall of 2005 it was consecrated.
Somehow, Rozhdestvenskaya Street used to look a little different in this place, although the building on the right in the photo is quite recognizable.
By the way, locals they call this place (the intersection of Rozhdestvenskaya and Zelensky congress) - Skoba.
And this old photograph was taken from the opposite angle, from the Ivanovskaya tower of the Kremlin.
Now we will deviate a little from the route and look at the neighboring street - Kozhevennaya. I want to show you the famous "Tea House" or a house with columns.
At first it was the profitable house of the merchant Perepletchikov. The building was praised by Emperor Nicholas I "for the beauty of the facade." Then the building was put up for auction and it was bought by the steamer Sirotkin, who provided the building for a tea house. As Maxim Gorky wrote: “People could sit warm, gave them a portion of tea for two kopecks, a pound of bread, organized a library, set up a piano ... Doctors organized a free outpatient clinic here.
We return to Christmas. On the left side of the street we see a beautiful building (house number 6). This is a former apartment building.
The house was built by the same merchant Perepletchikov, only later he handed it over by will to the city.
The facade of the building has not always looked so grand. The reconstruction was carried out for the All-Russian Exhibition of 1896. This building later housed various offices, the first public bank in Russia, the technical department of Avtostroy and even a cinema named after. Mayakovsky.
Today, on the first floor of a former apartment building, there is a very good art cafe "Bezukhov". The cafe is interesting for its interior, as well as literary readings are periodically held here.
On this side of the street there is an unusual sculpture that invariably attracts the attention of passers-by.
This is a kind of reminder of the Nizhny Novgorod salt scam.
In the 17th century, Nizhny Novgorod became the main salt warehouse in Russia. After the decree of Peter I on the state monopoly on the sale of salt, a salt office was established in the city. Corruption already existed in those days. Merchants slowly sold state salt, bypassing the state treasury, and the shortages were attributed to floods. Warehouses stood next to the river and could well be flooded. The scam came to light when Alexander II abandoned the salt monopoly and replaced it with an excise tax.
The Ministry of Finance ordered the salt to be sold as soon as possible, and then it turned out that there was nothing to sell. The case was loud. The head of the state chamber, Verderevsky, was convicted and publicly executed.
Why galoshes? There is a legend that the father of the merchant Fyodor Blinov, who was involved in the scandal, presented his son with iron galoshes and ordered him to “wear once a year, in memory of a misconduct.”
On the right side of the street stretch two gray facades - houses number 19 and 21.
Unfortunately, I don't know anything about house number 19. But house number 21 at one time was the profitable house of A.S. Platinum. It is possible that both houses belonged to the same owner.
The complex of houses of Rukavishnikov adjoins the Zaplatin house. The house with cast figures immediately attracts attention. The figures personify the symbols of industry and agriculture.
On the other side (facade on the Nizhnevolzhskaya embankment), the building takes on the outlines of neo-Gothic. In fact, this is a complex of two buildings designed by one architect - F. Shekhtel.
The surname Rukavishnikovs is very famous in the city. This is a famous dynasty of merchants and bankers. House number 23 was the location of Rukavishnikov's bank. And today, on the first floor of the house with the figures, there is a French restaurant "Gavroche", where my husband and I once tried frog legs. Before tasting the delicacy, I pestered the waiter for a long time about the place of residence of the frogs). I was assured that the frogs are real French women, and not toads from a Russian swamp. Oh well.
The next building that deserves attention is the house of the merchant Pyatov. The main facade is decorated with eight columns, and on the frieze you can see wreaths of glory and flowerpots.
Today, the building houses the Pyatkin restaurant with Russian cuisine. The owners of the restaurant tried to preserve and restore the interior of the merchant's house. Oh, what kind of fried potatoes with porcini mushrooms .... Highly recommend!
At this point, Rozhdestvenskaya Street is crossed by Vakhitov Lane. Across the alley, the house of the merchant Bugrov flaunts (No. 27).
In Soviet times, the comedy theater was located here, and now it is the Japanese Center.
As the sign on the house says - a typical example of eclecticism. The letter "B" on the medallion reminds of the former owner of the building.
Opposite the Bugrovs' house there is another tenement house, only this time by the merchant's wife Akulina Panina (yellow facade).
At first the house was two-story, but at the behest of the hostess a third floor was added. On the first floor, as a rule, there were shops, and the second and third floors were rented to tenants.
Slowly we approached Markina Square. On the left side, the facade of the building with carved windows “stretches”. This is the passage of the Blinov Brothers.
What was not there: shops, offices, hotels, warehouses and restaurants. Fortunately, huge areas allowed. In 1901, from here, from Permyakov's restaurant, Maxim Gorky was escorted into exile.
The same passage of the Blinov brothers, only many years ago.
And now we will once again deviate a little from the route, examine Markin Square and take a walk to the River Station.
In summer, a fountain works here, but the photos were taken in early spring and therefore the square looks a little unpresentable).
Pay attention to the white arch? Want to get your dose of electric vitamins?
The principle of operation is simple: two people must touch the metal plates on the poles, and then you need to touch each other. The circuit will close and the galvanometer will show the strength of your emotions. Couples in love just kiss under the arch, fixing the result).
The building of the River Station looks like a ship. To be honest, I have never been inside. I even do not know why….
In summer, pleasure and cruise ships depart from the pier, but in early spring, the station looks deserted.
From the pier you can clearly see the Strelka (the confluence of the Oka and the Volga) and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.
We return back to Rozhdestvenskaya Street and continue our walk.
On the facade of the building one can easily read the inscription from the past - “Khleboprodukt”…..
….., and the boy with gingerbread completes the picture.
Nearby is a local artist who slowly adds finishing touches to an already completed painting.
So we come to the Stroganov Church, a model of Russian baroque.
In fact, the name of the temple is different - in the name of the Cathedral of the Most Holy Theotokos, but since the Stroganov merchants built the church, the Nizhny Novgorod people call the church Stroganovskaya or Rozhdestvenskaya.
Do not be too lazy to climb up the street and inspect the temple from all sides.
In 1722, Peter I visited Nizhny Novgorod. On the day of his 50th birthday, the emperor attended a service in the Stroganov Church, after which he ordered that it be closed. Divine services in the temple resumed only in 1727. It is not known for certain why Peter I made such a decision, but there is one legend associated with icons. As if Grigory Stroganov bought up the icons for his church, ordered by Peter I for the Peter and Paul Cathedral in St. Petersburg, persuading them to write new ones for the emperor. Peter I recognized the icons and got angry. Whether this is true or not, we will never know.
This building on the right side of the street used to be the building of the Dobrov and Nabgolts plant, which produced steam engines. And by the looks of it, you can't tell. The exterior is quite presentable and the building looks more like a residential building.
Near the former building of the plant there are two estates - barons Stroganovs and princes Golitsyns.
Please note that the entrance to the teahouse "Tubeteika" is squeezed between the two buildings. If you are not even breathing in Uzbek cuisine, be sure to check it out. The food here is very delicious.
There is an interesting commemorative note and a bas-relief on the facade of the building. Literally - " On September 2, 1833, Nizhny Novgorod was visited by A.S. Pushkin. On Rozhdestvenskaya Street, he saw the house of S.V. Stroganova, daughter of Princess Golitsyna, who served as the prototype for The Queen of Spades.
It is with this estate that the birth of the idea for the story “The Queen of Spades” by A.S. Pushkin.
Our walk is coming to an end... I present to you another opportunity to compare a modern photo with a look from the past.
Almost the same look. There and domes of the Nativity Church are clearly distinguishable.
We went to Blagoveshchenskaya Square and Kanavinsky Bridge.
The last house on Rozhdestvenskaya Street (yellow), previously belonged to the princes Abamelek-Lazarev. In a two-story mansion, on the first floor there was an office selling iron, and on the second - living quarters. After the revolution, the owners hurriedly left the house, but at the same time they managed to hide family valuables in a cache. While searching the mansion, treasures were discovered. What was not there: chests with coins, and gold utensils, and various artistic values.
Up there is the Fedorovsky embankment, perfect place for walks. In the evening, the embankment is beautifully illuminated.
Directly across the road is the Annunciation Monastery.
If you are interested in old photographs of Nizhny Novgorod, then welcome to photo antiquity. First of all, the resource will be of interest to Nizhny Novgorod residents who know the city well.
I wish you pleasant walks around Nizhny Novgorod. Oksana was with you!
* in preparing the article, the material of the guide to Nizhny Novgorod from the Dekom publishing house was used.
One of the most unusual museums in Moscow is located in the historical part of the city, in a former tenement house, which belonged to the merchant Kuzma Kolupaev since the end of the 19th century. Here, not far from the Butyrskaya prison, next to the police station, during the days of the First Russian Revolution of 1905-1907, there was a deeply secret illegal printing house, where revolutionary leaflets and the Social Democratic newspaper Rabochy were published. She worked under the guise of the Kalandadze Wholesale of Caucasian Fruits store. This is the only illegal printing house in Russia, which was never discovered by the tsarist police due to the high professionalism of the conspirators. The museum has existed since 1924. Its organizers were those who at one time created a secret printing house and worked in it. That is why the exposition with extraordinary accuracy reproduces all the details of the bygone past. The memorial and museum complex consists of the interiors of the trading hall, the apartment of the store manager. In the basement of the shop, disguised as a warehouse, at a depth of three meters, a "cave" was dug. In this part of the exposition, you can see the reconstructed underground printing house with the American printing machine. The museum gives an idea not only about the conditions and environment in which the underground workers worked, but also about the life and life of Moscow burghers and middle-class citizens of the late 19th - early 20th centuries. The museum hosts interchangeable thematic exhibitions dedicated to memorable dates in Russian history. The museum also shows feature films "American" (USSR, 1930) and "House on Lesnaya" (USSR, 1980).
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We will dedicate the next walk to the Lower Bazaar, located at the confluence of the Oka and the Volga.
Nizhny bazaar, also known as Nizhny Posad, consists of a couple of streets, a wide Nizhnevolzhskaya embankment and several lanes, resting against the steep slope of the Dyatlovy Mountains. Under the tsar-father, two funiculars were built in Nizhny Novgorod, connecting the Lower Bazaar with the Kremlin and the upland part of the city. But under Soviet rule, both fell into disrepair and eventually collapsed. So we went down the stairs, and went up on a regular bus.
In front of the Kanavinsky Bridge, which leads to the main street of the Lower Bazaar, called Rozhdestvenskaya, there is a stele with the arms of the Lower Bazaar. The noble deer on the coat of arms is called the “merry goat” from time immemorial.
Almost every house on Rozhdestvenskaya Street is interesting. Unfortunately, not everyone got into the lens - it was cold, however. Yes, and there is nowhere to warm up 🙂 - on the occasion of the New Year, all (!) Establishments were closed. It was possible to get on the sightseeing tram, but the route does not start on the Christmas, but ends. And taking pictures from the windows is inconvenient.
A solid three-story house at the end of Rozhdestvenskaya Street belonged to the merchant I. Sobolev. It was built by the architect Uzhedumsky-Gritsevich in 1860-62. In the wing there were trading baths, and in the front building there was a hotel, which was considered one of the best in the city. In 1869, Leo Tolstoy stayed there.
The sights of Nizhny Novgorod also include two luxurious manor estates that belonged to the barons Stroganov and princes Golitsyn. The main house and outbuildings of the Stroganov estate, built in 1826, face the street. The Golitsyn estate was built by Domenico (Dementy Ivanovich 🙂) Gilardi in 1837. Its front facade faces the river, and inconspicuous outbuildings overlook the street.
The main house of the Stroganovs' estate. In the center of the facade, you can see an elegant balcony cast at the Ural Iron Works. The estate of the Stroganovs. On the left, outbuildings of the Golitsyn estate are visible in the distance.A spectacular three-story red building adjoins the Stroganovs' estate. The architraves, pediments, arched pediments, cornices and rustication of the first floor are highlighted in white. This is not a palace and not even an apartment building, but ... a factory of the Dobrov and Nabgolts company, built in 1885-86. He produced steam engines for the flour mills of the merchants Bashkirovs and Bugrovs. It was Emelyan Bashkirov who supplied flour to the famous Moscow baker Ivan Maksimovich Filippov.
It also produced equipment for water pipes, including for the entire (!) Trans-Siberian Railway.
Opposite is the brightest attraction of Rozhdestvenskaya Street - covered in legends.
While admiring the temple, do not forget to look at the elegant mansion with a mezzanine, standing at the back of the site. It is listed along Suetinskaya Street, which runs along Zapochaini. The house stands on the farmstead of Grigory Dmitrievich Stroganov. In the chambers that stood on this site, the owner of the ironworks received Peter I himself, who celebrated his fiftieth birthday in Nizhny in 1722. The current house was built by Nizhny Novgorod architects Ivan Efimovich Efimov and Anton Lavrentievich Leer in 1828-31. Here lived the manager of the “salt and iron caravans” of the Stroganovs.
Not far from the Stroganov Church there are a couple of bronze sculptures representing Nizhny Novgorod types. It's a peddler boy with a tray full of pretzels and bagels
and a gentleman-artist in a blouse and a beret, standing in front of an easel.
The artist “paints a city landscape from life” with the house of the merchant Smirnov, built by the already familiar architect Ivan Efimovich Efimov in 1823. This is a typical provincial classicist mansion with a mezzanine, a triangular pediment and a pilaster portico.
Perspective of Rozhdestvenskaya street. Far to the right is the house of the merchant Smirnov.Opposite is another classic mansion of noble proportions. The basement floor is highlighted in rich terracotta color, the mezzanine facade is decorated with pilasters and elegant shells in arched sandriks. The architect Anton Lavrentievich Leer built this house for the Esyrev Merchants in 1832.
The neighboring house is a little younger than the Esyrevs' mansion. He is “only” about 160 years old. It was built by Nikolai Ivanovich Uzhedumsky-Gritsevich, the author of the hotel of the merchant Sobolev, in 1853. At the very end of the 19th century, the merchant Aristarkh Andreevich Blinov ordered to rebuild it in the eclectic style that was fashionable at that time. Wide windows and decorative domes appeared in 1898.
The house of Aristarkh Blinov overlooks Sofronovskaya Square, renamed in Soviet times as Markin Square (commander of the Volga Flotilla during the Civil War). The eastern side of the square is occupied by the passage of the Blinov brothers. He still attracts attention. Imagine what impression he made in 1878 immediately after the completion of construction?
The author of the passage building is the St. Petersburg architect A.K. Bruni, and it was built by the Nizhny Novgorod architect Robert Yakovlevich Kilevein. The building housed shops, warehouses, offices, including the Nobel Brothers Association, a hotel and taverns. For some time, the Nizhny Novgorod exchange, post office and telegraph were located here. On the ground floor there was a shopping arcade - it was he who gave the name to the building.
The famous artist Konstantin Yegorovich Makovsky stayed at the Blinovsky Passage Hotel while working on the painting Minin's Proclamation.
In November 1901, in one of the local restaurants, the liberal intelligentsia of Nizhny Novgorod escorted A.M. Peshkov (Maxim Gorky) to Arzamas exile.
The passage belonged to the three Blinov brothers: Fedor, Aristarchus and Nikolai. The Blinov brothers, together with the no less famous grain merchants Bugrovs and Ustin Savvich Kurbatov, donated 250 thousand rubles for the construction of a city water supply system with the only condition: “The use of water from the new water supply system must be free for all classes of Nizhny Novgorod forever.” In memory of the benefactor merchants, a luxurious fountain with a memorial plaque was installed on Sofronovskaya Square, which was destroyed by the decision of the “parthozaktiv” in the 1960s.
On the south side of the square, in addition to the house of Aristarkh Blinov, there is the Nizhny Novgorod Stock Exchange, built for the All-Russian Exhibition of 1896 by architect Karl Gustavovich (Vasilyevich) Treiman.
The old and new churches of Kozma and Damian, which stood on Sofronovskaya (Markina) Square, have not been preserved. In their place, a gloomy Stalinist box was built, occupied by Nizhnovenergo.
Perspective of Rozhdestvenskaya Street to the north from Markina Square. On the left is a fragment of the Nizhnovenergo buildingBut the merchant houses of the end of the century before last are distinguished by their bright festive appearance.
Especially good is the profitable house of Nikolai Alexandrovich Bugrov, the grandson of the founder of the famous merchant dynasty Pyotr Yegorovich Bugrov. The house was rebuilt by the architect V.P. Zeidler in 1893. It housed a branch of the Volga-Kama Bank, where Bugrov took out loans to develop his grain business.
N.A. Bugrov was greatly revered in Nizhny Novgorod. Half of his income, and in case of natural disasters and up to 80%, he spent on charity. Bugrov, for the first time in the Russian Empire, established an eight-hour working day at his mills, established a pension fund for sick and elderly workers and an interest-free mortgage for those in need of housing. Millers were fed free of charge, given overalls, they lived in free houses at mills. On holidays, workers received gifts of food or money.
The house of N.A. Bugrov stands at the corner of Troitsky (Vakhitov) Lane. On the opposite corner stands the house of a merchant of the 1st guild, Honorary Citizen of Nizhny Novgorod Ivan Stepanovich Pyatov.
Pyatov traded in iron and, at his own expense, set up an Iron Row at the Nizhny Novgorod Fair in Kanavino, which won him a special favor with the engineer August Betancourt. It was Betancourt that Nicholas I entrusted with the arrangement of the Fair, which was transferred from Makariev after a devastating fire. In 1819, August Betancourt built a house for Pyatov, decorated with an Ionic colonnade on the facade. A figured attic with two domes and decorative vases in niches was added by well-known Nizhny Novgorod homeowners I. Kudryashov and N. Chesnokov.
The neighboring house is one of the best examples of Art Nouveau in Russia. This is the creation of the brilliant F.O. Shekhtel - the Russian Commercial and Industrial Bank of Sergei Mikhailovich and Mitrofan Mikhailovich Rukavishnikov, representatives of the famous "damned family" of Nizhny Novgorod industrialists. The building on Rozhdestvenskaya Street was built in 1908 in the forms of a rational modernist style. It is distinguished by wide window openings, a combination of decorative plaster and ceramic facing tiles.
The cast-iron sculptures of a worker and a peasant woman were made by the then little-known sculptor Sergei Timofeevich Konenkov. They represent industry and agriculture.
The former property of the Rukavishnikovs stretches from Rozhdestvenskaya Street to the Nizhnevolzhskaya Embankment. The second building of the ensemble, designed by F.O. Shekhtel in the Art Nouveau style with neo-Gothic elements, overlooks the embankment. The building overlooking the embankment was intended for a department store. It was built in 1913-1916. In Soviet times, a factory was opened there.
At the very beginning of Rozhdestvenskaya Street there is another Art Nouveau building. This is the former home of Fyodor Petrovich Pereplyotchikov, the owner of rope manufactories, a public figure and a major philanthropist. In 1845, he bequeathed two of his houses to the city so that the income from them would go to the benefit of the poor. House number 6 on Rozhdestvenskaya was built by Ivan Efimovich Efimov in 1822. During the All-Russian Exhibition, visiting merchants stopped here. Even then it became clear that the house needed renovation. In 1902, the house was built on and rebuilt by the architect Anatoly Ivanovich Shmakov, a native of the serf counts Sheremetyevs.
Shmakov decorated the facades with many mascarons in the form of female heads entwined with flowers. Vertical rods in the piers of windows, the pattern of platbands, stucco molding in sandriks are also characteristic of the provincial Art Nouveau.
Rozhdestvenskaya street led us to the former Gostiny Dvor. Unfortunately, almost nothing is left of it. However, according to the U-shaped building of the Flour Rows, this place is still called “Skoba”.
Sights of Nizhny Novgorod. "Skoba" or National Unity Square
View from the "Skoba" on Rozhdestvenskaya street.On the right remains the Church of the Kazan Icon of the Virgin, rebuilt in a modern cult style. It was erected a few years ago on the site of an earlier church that was lost during the Soviet era.
Commercial and industrial Christmas ends. Further along the Ivanovsky congress and Zhivonosovskaya (Kozhevennaya) street was the city "bottom", which was also a kind of "landmark" of Nizhny Novgorod.
On a hillock under the walls of the Kremlin stands the famous lodging house of Alexander Petrovich Bugrov, designed to receive 500 people. It opened in 1883. On its facade was the famous inscription “Do not drink vodka, do not sing songs, be quiet!” The guests of the rooming house could count on a free pound of bread and a mug of boiling water once a day. It was in the Bugrovskaya rooming house that Gorky heard how a certain ragamuffin called himself “Baron”. Later, the writer made the character of the baron one of the main ones in his play “At the Bottom”.
The son of Alexander Petrovich, Nikolai Alexandrovich Bugrov, invested 30 thousand rubles in the bank. The interest went to the upkeep of the lodging house. In 1885-89, Bugrov built a trading building nearby, the proceeds from which were also used for an overnight stay.
The Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist, which has existed since the end of the 16th century, was rebuilt in stone in 1683 at the expense of the townsman Gavrila Dranishnikov and restored in 2005 after Soviet destruction. At the walls of the wooden church of the same name, Kozma Minin addressed the people of Nizhny Novgorod with his famous appeal.
The modern sights of Nizhny Novgorod include a copy of the monument to Minin and Pozharsky, installed in 2005. It was made by the famous copyist sculptor Zurab Tsereteli.
This place has received the pretentious name "National Unity Square". In 2005, a belfry chapel with a 6-ton alarm bell appeared between the church and the North Tower of the Kremlin.
Houses along Zhivonosovskaya (Kozhevenny) Street and the neighboring Kozhevenny Lane are reminiscent of the Nizhny Novgorod “millionka”. So mockingly called the place of accumulation of tramps, ragamuffins and other unfortunate people.
The stone buildings of the merchant Fyodor Gushchin, built in 1869-71, are perfect for the scenery of the play “At the Bottom”.
On Kozhevennaya Street there is the famous tramp tea house “Pillars”. Georg Kizevetter built this house for Fyodor Petrovich Perepletchikov, already familiar to us, who at that time was the mayor. In 1839, the work of Georg Kizewetter was awarded the following resolution of the Sovereign Emperor Nicholas I:
"Kizevetter to declare royal pleasure for the beauty of this facade."
This is one of the best houses in Nizhny Novgorod, built in the style of classicism. In 1901, it was acquired by the steamer Dmitry Vladimirovich Sirotkin, an Old Believer and a member of the City Duma. Like other Nizhny Novgorod rich, he was actively involved in charity work and, at the request of Maxim Gorky, provided this house for a folk tea house. The money for its arrangement was allocated by the already known to us Nikolai Alexandrovich Bugrov. Tramps, in a common folk manner, called the tea house “Pillars” because of the columns on the facade.
Here people could sit warmly. They gave them a portion of tea for two kopecks, a pound of bread, organized a small library, put up a piano and arranged concerts on holidays ...
Up to 500 tramps gathered here for musical matinees. Nizhny Novgorod doctors opened a free outpatient clinic and a pharmacy in Stolby.
The adjacent two-story building is much younger than the "Pillars". This is the former Izvolsky hotel, built in 1905.
One of the most beautiful streets in Nizhny Novgorod is Christmas, which embodies the merchant Lower XVIII - XIX centuries in the best possible way, it is not for nothing that it is called a museum under open sky. One serene autumn evening, we walked along this wonderful street, having examined some of the noteworthy houses and places, of course, not all that is on this street, and we did not set such a task) .
We pass through the Kanavinsky bridge with views of the Fedorovsky embankment and the Nizhnevolzhskaya embankment (photo from the car window):
Nizhnevolzhskaya embankment and River Station :
The building of the River Station, built in 1964 by architect M. I. Churilin, is very similar to a ship. True, the semicircular rotundas, attached during the reconstruction of 2002 - 2003 on both sides to the "ship", slightly violated these outlines.
We managed to park the car not far from the Nativity Church, so it was decided to first go towards the Kanavinsky Bridge, and now the story will go about this section of the street - from Markin Square to Blagoveshchenskaya.
Rozhdestvenskaya street- one of the oldest streets in the city, is considered the second most important after Bolshaya Pokrovskaya. Its length is a little more than 1 kilometer, but the number of architectural monuments on it is considerable - 35 officially registered today. There are only stone houses on this street, some partially preserved from the 18th century. Recently, in the process of reconstruction of the street, new monuments appeared here, or, as they are now called, small urban sculpture, connected with the history of this place.
Rozhdestvenskaya Street connects the Ivanovsky congress from the Kremlin walls to the square in front of the Cathedral of the Annunciation.
View of the street Rozhdestvenskaya from the side of the turn to Kanavinsky Bridge:
On the information board Nativity Church it is written that "... initially the street was called Bolshaya Kozmodemyanskaya after the church of the holy unmercenaries Kozma and Damian (on the site of the modern house No. 33). With the construction in 1653 by the merchant Semyon Zadorin of the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin (higher than the modern temple), it gradually became known as Rozhdestvenskaya. In In Soviet times, it was renamed into cooperative (1924), then - Mayakovsky (1940). In 1990, the historical name was returned to the street. These are the twists and turns of fate near this small street, which has become one of the symbolic places in the city.
Rozhdestveskaya Street, one might say, is the same age as Nizhny Novgorod, on the site of the modern street in the 13th century there were streets of Nizhny Posad (respectively, Verkhny Posad is the upper part of the city). Later, the name "posad" was replaced by "bazaar", which reflected the great role of trade in the city's economy. Christmas was main street Lower Bazaar, located on a narrow stretch of coast along the Oka and Volga. Since 1770, there have been great changes in the development of the city, then the first plan for the development of the Lower was drawn up, including Rozhdestvenskaya Street, which was rebuilt within the boundaries that we see now, the street began to take on a familiar look to us. A significant innovation of that period - by order of the leading engineer of the city A.A. Betancourt, all newly erected houses on this street must be made of stone to prevent the spread of fires.
At the end of the 19th century, the first tram was launched along the street, electric lighting appeared, the roads were covered with asphalt - this was done before the opening of the All-Russian Industrial and Art Exhibition in 1896, the street became more and more comfortable and modern.
The brightest attraction on Rozhdestvenskaya Street and one of the symbols of Nizhny Novgorod is Church of the Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God, which is also called Christmas, or Stroganovskaya. It was built at the turn of the 17th - 18th centuries (in 1696-1719) at the expense of the famous merchant-salt industrialist Grigory Dmitrievich Stroganov, near the piers and salt warehouses belonging to him. After the consecration in 1719 by His Grace Pitirim, Archbishop of Nizhny Novgorod, the church received the name Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God, later it was also called by the name of the nearby Church of the Nativity of the Virgin, built in 1653 and broken, presumably at the end of the 18th century. Over the years of its existence, the Nativity Church has repeatedly suffered from fires and destruction. Now we see it almost the same as it was in the first half of the 18th century, at the end of construction. Today the church was re-consecrated in 1993.
In the Soviet years, the Church of the Nativity survived miraculously, we owe this to the selfless work of the rector of the church in 1915 to 1934, Father Sergiy Veisov. He collected historical documents and photographs, gave whole lectures in the offices of Soviet officials on the cultural significance of the Stroganov baroque, and was able to save the temple from barbaric destruction. In this building, party workers decided to place the city museum of the history of religion and atheism...
At the time of our walk, the facades of the church were being restored:
According to experts, the appearance of the temple was badly damaged during the restoration in the early 2000s, because the technologies used did not comply with the principles of scientific restoration, and the materials chosen for restoring the details were incompatible with each other. Apparently, therefore, after just over 10 years, new repairs were required.
Christmas Church is an example of the so-called stroganoff baroque, it is richly decorated with white stone carvings and stucco. The church is two-tiered, on the second tier there is an altar part, a prayer hall, a refectory and a porch.
A legend is connected with the construction of the Church of the Most Holy Theotokos, very similar to the legend of the blinding of Postnik and Barma after the construction of St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, with the only difference that the name of the builder of the Nizhny Novgorod church is unknown.
Above the church on the hillside is a five-tiered bell tower with a weather vane. At first it was built separately, but in the second half of the 18th century a gallery was erected between the church and the bell tower and the entrance to the temple was made from the side of the bell tower.
In the photo above, a clock is visible on the bell tower. Now, in place of the old clock, there is a modern mechanism, but around the dial, preserved Slavic letters are visible, dividing the circle into 17 parts, as it was supposed to according to the ancient Russian time reckoning. Those watches that were originally standing were repaired by the Russian mechanic I.P. Kulibin, but they were not preserved and where they went is unknown.
In the 60s of the 19th century, the bell tower wanted to repeat the fate of the Leaning Tower of Pisa - it began to catastrophically tilt, and in 20 years it retreated by as much as 1.2 meters. To stop this process, in 1887 the upper tiers were dismantled and then assembled again.
Fine white stone carving on the red brick walls of the temple looks very picturesque and festive.
Gallery under the bell tower and the entrance to the church:
In the passage between the bell tower and the entrance to the church itself, photographs of Stroganov's buildings hang on the walls:
Inside the church is very small, because it was not without reason that it was built as a home church of the Stroganovs themselves and their closest acquaintances.
The interior of the church combines the asceticism of whitewashed brick walls and a sumptuous wooden carved gilded altar with an early 18th century iconostasis. The iconostasis was gilded in 1865.
At present, the church keeps shrines - an ancient icon of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker; icons with particles of the relics of St. Seraphim of Sarov, Metropolitan Philaret of Moscow, Optina elders in a reliquary next to the iconostasis; revered "Reigning" icon of the Mother of God.
When we entered, a service was going on in the temple. We stood at the entrance for a while, it was inconvenient to walk through and take pictures, so we soon left the church, there are very few photos inside.
The white-stone details of the facades were repaired many times in the 19th century, also once at the beginning of the 20th century, in 1912-1913.
We went outside and admired the white carvings around the windows and columns of the Corinthian temple.
The domes of the church, located on the cardinal points, were painted green during construction. At the end of the 19th century, they were covered with scales made of sheet iron, like St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, and only one dome is now covered with a simple iron sheet and gilded.
Near the temple, already on the pedestrian part of the street, there are information boards (I quoted from one of them above):
Here, before reaching the Nativity Church, - monument to the Artist, to the itinerant artist Vladimir Makovsky:
Once again, the hooligans dragged the brush out of the hands of the sculpture ((.
Everything seems to be restored, however, in some places you can see historical layers)):
Or a piece of the past will look out from under the modern superstructure:
And not all yards are still exemplary)):
This is the courtyard of the main house in the Golitsyn estate, a story about it is below.
Although these courtyards in the very center of a big city are so provincially cute):
Yes, and the locals are trying to transform even an ordinary arch into some kind of fantastic art object:
On this section of the street, as well as on the whole of Rozhdestvenskaya, in recent years, many cafes and restaurants of many cuisines of the world, from Russian to exotic, have opened. Nearby are an Italian restaurant and an Asian restaurant:
Red and white house on the right house number 43, is an architectural monument, the building of the Dobrov and Nabgolts Association of Machine-Building Production, built in 1885, architect N.D. Grigoriev. The Dobrov and Nabgolts Association of Machine-Building Production produced steam engines for the local flour-grinding industry. This factory building was adjacent to the estates of the Stroganovs and Golitsyns on Rozhdestvenskaya Street, so it was given the facade of a residential building, but from the side of the embankment the building has a more modest appearance.
A house №45 , part of which is now an Italian restaurant, is Manor of the Counts Stroganovs, built in 1825-1829, and quite tangentially, but this house is connected with the work of the great poet A. S. Pushkin:
In memory of this event, the wall of the arch is decorated with bas-reliefs and inscriptions, so anyone, even without a guidebook, will know the story of Pushkin's stay in Nizhny Novgorod.
The story "The Queen of Spades" was written by Pushkin in the same autumn of 1883 in Boldino.
I must say that throughout the street there is a lot of information about historical objects, on the houses - both traditional signs, and in some places modern QR codes for smartphones.
Manor of the Stroganovs, direct descendants of Grigory Dmitrievich Stroganov, at whose expense the Church of the Nativity was built, designed by St. Petersburg architect Pavel Ivanov. The estate consisted of a three-story house and two small outbuildings.
In the second wing - the restaurant "Tyubeteika":
Near the estate of the Stroganovs - manor their relatives princes Golitsyn. By the time the Golitsyn princes began to build their house, the Nizhnevolzhskaya embankment had already been equipped, so the main facade of the Golitsyn estate turned to the Volga, and 2 wings overlooked Rozhdestvenskaya. The whole project was developed by the Moscow architect D.I. Gilardi, and two Nizhny Novgorod architects, A.L. Leer and G.I. Kizevetter, supervised the construction, they were also the authors of the projects of symmetrical outbuildings.
The courtyard of the main house in the Golitsyn estate:
In former times, the yard was fenced off from the roadway with a stone fence and had two entrances.
East wing:
AT west wing the Golitsyn estate is now a Thai cafe):
Unfortunately, from the side of the Nizhnevolzhskaya embankment, the estate of the Stroganovs and Golitsins is in not very good condition:
The odd side of the street ends with a house №49 :
This is the house of Vasily Klimovich Michurin, erected in 1848-1849, architect - L.V. Fostikov, as an apartment building, all the profits from which went to his wife Avdotya Vasilievna for all her ladies' tricks and whims). Later, this house housed I.M. Bubnov’s hotel, which was considered the best in the lower part of the city, which was famous for its table and wines, and Korovin’s transport and stagecoach office.
End wall view house number 49:
Monumental fresco on the wall house number 49:
And a few pictures around. side view Annunciation Monastery:
Start Pokhvalinsky Congress:
And Blagoveshchenskaya Square in winter:
Kanavinsky bridge:
On the even side, Rozhdestvenskaya street ends with a house №46 :
it profitable house of princes Abamelek-Lazarev, built in 1844-45, architect - A.E. Turmyshev. This house is associated with the history of the treasure. When the owners left their house after the revolution, they hid chests with coins, jewelry, gold and silver utensils in a secret place. Some time after the revolutionary events, the house was looted by robbers, but no one found the treasure. And only after a thorough search the cache was discovered by the workers of the Cheka. Only a small part of that treasure was transferred to the local history museum, the main part disappeared in an unknown direction.
We turn around and go to the beginning of Rozhdestvenskaya Street on the even side. Cute house number 40- profitable house of the Rybinsk merchant of the 1st guild Ivan Nikolaevich Sobolev, built in 1860-1862, architect - Uzhumedsky-Gritsevich.
The house was arranged very functionally: the first floor was intended for trading shops, the second floor for a restaurant, and the third floor for a hotel. Also in the side buildings there were services, warehouses, rooms for servants and the famous Sobolevsky baths throughout the city. Now there is a cafe with such an interesting sign:
Some classical-style houses on Rozhdestvenskaya Street have Mediterranean motifs in the form of wrought-iron balconies and flowers on the window sill from the street side, even in autumn it looks very nice:
it house number 28- apartment house of Alexei Borisovich Smirnov, built in 1832 according to the project of architect I.E. Efimov and served as a hotel:
Again - a restaurant, this time - Italian:
This restaurant is located in house number 26, the house of I. Shuvalov - A.K. Heinze, built in 1836 according to the project of the provincial architect I.E. Efimov.
On the odd side - house number 37 with a sign "Bread products", this is the former home of the Yesyrevs, famous people in Nizhny Novgorod with an unusual fate. The Yesyrevs were serfs of the Nizhny Novgorod Ascension Caves Monastery, but in 1794 the future mayor Mikhail Yesyrev managed to enroll in the merchants' guild. In November 1809, he purchased a plot of land on Rozhdestvenskaya Street from the merchant Perepletchikov; together with his brother Sergei, they owned a small spinning mill and produced a grain market. The sons of Mikhail Yesyrev - Peter and Stepan - expanded their father's business, traded in bread and salt, and kept a carriage factory in the city. In 1831, they rebuilt the old father's house according to the project of the architect A.L. Leer. The house is an architectural monument of the Classicism era.
Opposite the house of the Yesyrevs there is a modern sculpture of a young man from the 19th century:
On the plate at the feet of the seller of bread it is written that this is a gift to Nizhny Novgorod from the Tyurins bakers. The sculpture was installed in 2013. The charitable traditions of the Nizhny Novgorod merchants continue to this day.
Postal congress (former Uspensky), located between houses No. 24 and 26:
A short walk up this exit in about 10 minutes will lead to the museum of A.M. Gorky's childhood - Kashirin's house.
There is a beautiful building on the corner of the Postal Congress in house number 24 - Blinovsky passage:
This former tenement house was built in 1853 by R.Ya. Kilevein, designed by the architect from Pererburg A.K. Brownie for the merchants Aristarkh and Nikolai Blinov. Only a small part of the house opens onto Rozhdestvenskaya Street, its entire volume is "hidden" and goes inland, towards Ilyinskaya Street.
In the 19th - early 20th centuries, there was everything in Blinovsky Passage - warehouses, shops, offices, a restaurant, a hotel, and a telegraph office. Interestingly, according to the well-known reference portal, even now in house No. 24 there are 30 different organizations - including a hostel, several cafes, restaurants, a wedding salon and an advertising agency, wholesale companies and a post office, such a continuity in time).
In front of the Blinovsky passage - Markin Square, view of it from Ilyinskaya St. (photo taken during another autumn walk):
View of the square from the Nizhnevolzhskaya embankment (winter photo):
Markin Square arose on this site in the late 30s of the XIX century after the demolition of one of the houses of the merchant E. Sofronov (later, in the Soviet years, it was named after Nikolai Markin, commissar of the Volga military flotilla). And in the 19th century, this square was the public and business center of the Lower Bazaar.
Monument to the heroes of the Volga military flotilla, opened in 1977:
Today, Markina Square is also often the center of fairs, folk festivals, so it was on the day of our walk - the Vinaigrette food festival was held here, however, we arrived at the end of this event.
But on the square there were still tents with products from local producers - from bread, cheeses, sausages to live crayfish)), souvenirs, and samples of agricultural products in kind) were also presented)):
In 2012, at the initiative of one of the local advertising newspapers, an original "Bench of love and fidelity", which was immediately chosen by the newlyweds for attaching locks)):
The bench is interesting for its concave shape of the seat; it is impossible for two people to sit on this bench without clinging closely to each other)).
On the corner of Markina Square, closer to Rozhdestvenskaya, a retro-style telephone booth was installed in May 2014:
From this payphone you can call any landline number for free.
Walk along the street. Rozhdestvenskaya, to the monument to Minin and Pozharsky, continue to ...
References:
- "Kucherova T.V. Rozhdestvenskaya street" - http://www.opentextnn.ru/space/nn/nb/?id=145
-"Objects cultural heritage" - http://oldnn.info/en/nasledie/obj
- "Old Nizhny: the history of Rozhdestvenskaya Street"- http://progorodnn.ru/news/view/77971l
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