A closed glacier or a trap for the careless. Glacial cracks. A selection of photos of climbers avoiding deep cracks on the surface

ON THE 65TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE GREAT VICTORY

THEY FIGHTED TO THE DEATH FOR THE PASSES OF THE GREATER CAUCASUS

The fascist German troops, reaching the main passes of the Greater Caucasus in the second half of August 1942, resumed active offensive operations, striving to capture the oil-bearing regions of Baku and Grozny at any cost, and also to reach the Black Sea towards their troops in the Tuapse and Novorossiysk directions. The closest pass to connect with these groups was Marukh.

On the path of the elite units of the Edelweiss mountain rifle division, it was not the ridges of the Caucasian mountains that became an insurmountable obstacle, but the steadfastness and mass heroism of the soldiers who defended the passes of the Caucasus.

General Rudolf Konrad and his Alpine riflemen from the 49th Mountain Corps were confident of an easy victory.

The Marukh pass (height 2739 m) in the western part of the Greater Caucasus was covered by the 808th and 810th regiments of the 294th rifle division. Alpine shooters, formed in the mountain villages of Tyrol from the best climbers and skiers, had special mountain equipment and weapons, warm clothing, pack transport - mules. They could move quickly in the mountains, climb glaciers and snowy passes.

From August 27 to September 1, there were stubborn battles on the outskirts of the Marukh pass. On September 5, the enemy, with the forces of the regiment, went on the offensive and, having a great superiority in forces and means, captured the pass. But his further advance into Abkhazia and Transcaucasia was stopped by the forces of the 810th regiment, which was in the 2nd echelon.

Immediately behind the pass was the front line of defense. The line of 1.5-2 km passed from Mount Marukh-Bashi to the north-west and closed the passage to the Marukh Gorge. Our mountain rifle detachments dug in, dugouts were built in the rocks, machine guns were installed. Another 3 battalions arrived to help the regiment. Throughout September and October, the troops fought with varying success for the possession of this frontier.

On October 25, the 810th regiment occupied Hill 1176 and the gates of the Marukh Pass, firmly entrenched and defended among the rocks, snow and ice until the end of 1942.

Our troops were greatly assisted by flying detachments of climbers. They could be found on mountain trails, on snowy plateaus, on steep passes. They tracked down the enemy, set up ambushes and blockages on roads and paths, made daring raids, and participated in ground and air reconnaissance. They stood against the selected Alpine units of the "Third Reich", who fought in Norway, Greece, Yugoslavia and gained a lot of experience.

Small groups of rangers managed to get through Caucasian Range in the area of ​​the Bzyb River. They were seen in the villages of Gvandra and Klidzhe, in the area of ​​​​Lake Ritsa, 40 km from Sukhum, but they could not go further - they were destroyed.

At the same time, civilians were evacuated. In August 1942, the climbers received a task from the command - to bring people living and working at the Tyrnyauz molybdenum plant, located in the Baksan Gorge, through the passes of the Transcaucasus, and take out valuable equipment and raw materials. The way for evacuation along the road was cut off by the Germans. German planes flew over the Baksan Gorge and dropped bombs. Under fire, in difficult meteorological conditions, a chain of residents of Tyrnyauz went to the pass, led by climbers and their assistants - Komsomol members from the plant. With a lack of climbing equipment, special shoes, climbers led women, the elderly, the disabled, children and transported valuable equipment on donkeys. Bypassing deep cracks littered with snow, organizing rope crossings, falling into snow charges and a thunderstorm, climbers transferred 1,500 adults and 230 children during August.

Everyone who went from the Baksan Gorge to Svaneti through the Becho Pass knows that it is accessible only to trained, trained athletes. I was convinced of this, having passed the pass with a group of factory tourists in August 1960. There were some beginners in our group, and if it weren't for the help of the climbers passing at the same time, we would have had to experience great difficulties.

After the transition of the Soviet troops to the general offensive in January 1943, the enemy retreated to the north. The enemy's attempt to break through the Marukh Pass to the rear in the Tuapse and Novorossiysk directions and reach the sea failed.

The history of the highest mountain war in the world is presented in the book by Vladimir Gneushev and Andrey Poputko "The Secret of the Marukh Glacier", published by the Stavropol book publishing house in 1966.

In September 1962, the shepherd of the collective farm Muradin Kochkarov grazed a flock of sheep in the mountains of the Western Caucasus near the Khaleg pass. Missing a few sheep, Muradin, leaving the flock for a partner, went in search. He went out to a small lake - there were no sheep there, he went even higher and soon climbed the ridge. Here he saw several combat cells, human bones, shell casings. Walking along the ridge to the top of Kara-Kaya, I saw traces of fierce battles. On the Marukh glacier, he came across the frozen remains of our soldiers. He told the chairman of the village council in the village of Khasaut about what he saw.

The Stavropol regional executive committee created a commission of military specialists, doctors, experts and sent it to the Marukh glacier. With them was a platoon of sappers and a group of climbers led by an experienced instructor, Khadzhi Magomedov. Coming out along the valley of the Aksaut River to the crest of the ridge, they discovered and collected the remains of the fighters, found a field infirmary. At the highest point of the ridge of 3500 m, in a tour made of stones, there was a note left by recently passing tourists. They wrote that they were shocked by what they saw and offered to name this nameless ridge "Defensive".

On the descent from the ridge to the moraine of the glacier, traces of fierce battles increasingly came across. In many places on the glacier - scattered on the surface of the ice, half-frozen remains of our fighters, weapons, shells. On the Defense Ridge, a team of sappers destroyed mines and shells.

All the remains of the soldiers were carried by people across the ridge to the clearing and on horseback they lowered the mournful load into the valley of the Aksaut River, then to the village of Krasny Karachay and from there by car to the village of Zelenchukskaya, the regional center.

Those who were buried in Zelenchukskaya on October 1, 1962, people will remember forever. There have never been so many people in Zelenchukskaya - from the very morning they walked here and rode anything not only from their neighboring villages and villages, but also from Karachaevsk, Cherkessk, Stavropol. Neither the stadium where the military guard with the orchestra lined up, nor even the park where the remains were buried, could accommodate all the arrivals, and therefore people stood, flooding the neighboring streets.

In the summer of 1959, the Moscow city tourist school of Sergei Nikolaevich Boldyrev made a transition through the Western Caucasus. 162 participants were divided into 5 groups, 2 of which, passing north of Kara-Kai, reached the Northern Marukh Glacier. We had to spend the night on the moraine of the glacier. In the morning, going up to the Marukh pass, they began to meet bones, unexploded grenades, fragments of mines and shells, shells. Even in Moscow, preparing for the campaign, they knew about the traces of fierce battles on the Marukh Pass, but what they saw cannot be expressed in words.

In 1960, a group of students of the Civil Engineering Institute. Kuibysheva from Moscow, making a mountain hike, found the remains of warriors on the glacier. They buried the nameless soldiers as best they could, and the next year, in backpacks, they lifted a prefabricated obelisk into the mountains and installed it in the area of ​​​​the glacier.

Many years later, a mass ascent was made to the Marukh pass. A monument was erected there and a rally was held in memory of our soldiers who fought to the death against the elite units of the Edelweiss division.

In 1961, I led a group of tourists from our factory through the Klukhor Pass, and we found traces of battles. And even in 1974, being here with factory tourists, I found echoes of the battles of 1942.

In 1975, the country was preparing to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Great Victory. For a long time I had been nurturing the idea of ​​organizing a trip to the area of ​​the Marukh Pass and setting up a board for its heroic defenders on the rocks of the Defense Range from the factory's tourist club. Alexander Kozlov, chairman of the plant's tourist club, supported me. So the expedition was organized as part of mountain and water groups, which were supposed to meet after the hike on May 9 in the village of Zelenchukskaya and take part in a rally and lay a wreath at the monument to the defenders of the Marukh pass. Alexander Sapozhnikov and Viktor Khorunzhiy took up the manufacture of the board, the factory artists prepared two ribbons for the wreath and the board. The trade union committee allocated money for travel and a few days of vacation.

Mountain group: Nikolai Lychagin and Mark Shargorodsky - engineers, Tatyana Zueva - technologist, Vladimir Dmitriev - military representative of the plant, Viktor Khorunzhiy - electrician and I - Marishina Valentina - designer, campaign leader.

Water group (3 crews): Valery Gut - rater, campaign leader, Viktor Slabov - technologist, Boris Evtikhov and Alexander Sapozhenkov - engineers, Alexander Ivanov - milling operator and Igor Zhashko (not a factory worker), whose father participated in the battles for the Marukhsky pass.

Vodnikov drove through Cherkessk to Upper Arkhyz, from where they began rafting down the Bolshoi Zelenchuk River.

Our mountain group arrived in Karachaevsk, from there by bus and car to Krasny Karachay and along the valley of the Aksaut River moved to the upper reaches. After a two-day hike in the morning, light with ice axes and two backpacks, in which the board and fasteners are packed, we begin the ascent to the Khaleg pass. We make a path in the knee-deep snow. On the ascent to the pass we meet several rounds of stones, installed boards, obelisks. At the foot of these monuments there are traces of battles, remnants of weapons, rusty iron, shell casings. Leaving the board in a secluded place on the pass, we returned to the tents. The next day, passing through the Khalega pass along the beaten path, taking the board, we went down to the valley of the Marukh River, filled with snowfields. Not far from the glacier in a wooden shelter we stopped for the night. The shelter was filled to overflowing with tourists - the entire geography of the country. In the morning we climbed the Oboronic Ridge, found a ledge with a flat platform for the board, where the next day they installed and secured the board, using ropes for insurance and lifting the board with the text: “To the heroic defenders of the ice fortress of the Marukh Pass, Transcaucasia in August - December 1942. From the factory youth and the tourist club of the factory. Moscow city. May 1975". Pine branches with a ribbon and lilacs from the village of Krasny Karachay were fixed under the board.

We met with the senior pioneer leader of the school, and she offered to make a wreath from the group at their school. We made a chic wreath from spruce branches, added fresh flowers to it, attached a ribbon, and on May 9 we took it out of school. Pioneers and schoolchildren also brought out their wreath. There was a rally at the stadium. I have never seen Victory Day celebrated like this anywhere. The stadium was full to overflowing. All with wreaths, flowers, baskets, flags - veterans, youth, pioneers, children, mothers with prams.

A photo

After the rally, in organized columns, everyone moved to the park to the monument to the defenders of the Marukh pass, where an eternal flame burns. There are many tourists descending from the mountains in the columns. In the guard of honor are young guys, schoolchildren.

A photo

Wreaths, baskets and flowers were laid at the monument. On the dark stele of the monument there is a light board depicting a machine gun and an ice ax.

We gave the pioneer leader, who helped us with the manufacture of a wreath, a figure of a warrior - the defender of the Marukh Pass, made by our factory craftsman, for the school museum.

On the bank of Zelenchuk, after all the celebrations, the groups gathered at the festive table. They came to us locals, sat with us by the fire, sang military songs. The people are very friendly, there are many children.

Having passed many passes in the Caucasus, I saw dozens of obelisks, commemorative plaques, pyramids with stars, lifted on their shoulders by tourists from many cities of our Soviet country. On the Becho pass, tourists from the Odessa tourist club "Romantic" installed a large silver plate on the rock, on which the names of 6 climbers who accomplished the feat, transferring the inhabitants of the Baksan gorge through the pass to Svaneti, are written. On the board is a warrior in a helmet with a star and a little girl clasping his neck with her arms.

The geography of the cities whose tourists lifted these modest monuments into the mountains on their shoulders is great: Odessa, Donetsk, Moscow, Kharkov, Dnepropetrovsk, Leningrad, Rostov, Krasnodar, Stavropol ... I remember one obelisk with a star and a massive board with the inscription "Defenders of the North Caucasus" , established by the Komsomol members of the city of Chapaevsk, Kuibyshev region (now Samara).

The passes of the Caucasus were defended by warriors of many nationalities of our great country - the USSR. The Marukh Pass, in addition to the soldiers, was defended by the sailors of the Black Sea Fleet. The memory of grateful descendants for the great feat of our fathers and grandfathers should be passed on to the generations following us.

Valentina Marishina,
Moscow city

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What do we know about glacial cracks? Only what glacial(ice)crack- this is a gap in the glacier, formed as a result of its movement. Cracks most often have vertical walls. The depth and length of cracks depends on the physical parameters of the glacier itself. There are cracks up to 70 m deep and tens of meters long. Cracks are: closed and open type. Open fissures are clearly visible on the surface of the glacier and therefore represent less of a hazard to movement on the glacier. Theory is good, but without a visual image, a theory remains just a text.

Depending on the time of year, weather and other factors, the cracks in the glacier can be covered with snow. In this case, the cracks are not visible, and when moving along the glacier, there is a danger of falling into the crack along with the snow bridge covering the crack. To ensure safety when moving on a glacier, especially a closed one, it is necessary to move in bundles.

There is a special type of crack - bergschrund, characteristic of kars (circus, or a natural bowl-shaped depression in the pre-top part of the slopes), which feed valley glaciers from the firn basin. Bergschrund is a large fissure that occurs when a glacier exits a firn basin.

Details about the types of glacial cracks and their structure can be found in the article.

And now let's move on to a direct view of illustrative examples of cracks of various types and sizes:

Glacial crack on a "dirty" glacier

Dangerous ice cracks on a "closed" glacier

Rankluft - a crack, a ravine between a glacier and rocks. Usually rankluft is formed on the lateral borders of the contact of the glacier with the rocks. Reaches from 1m wide and up to 8 meters deep

Technique of movement in the mountains, in some sections of the path depends on the nature and characteristics of the mountainous terrain.

Wooded and grassy slopes are overcome along shepherd and animal paths, usually going along warm southern and western slopes, places with sparse vegetation and a thick layer of soil. On trails or flat ground, move at a steady pace, slowed down at the beginning and end of each transition. The feet are almost parallel, the foot is placed on the heel with a "roll" on the toe to the beginning of the next step. The center of gravity of the body with a backpack should move vertically as little as possible - small hills and pits should be bypassed, stones and tree trunks should be stepped over. Alpenstock or ice ax is carried in the hand in the stowed position; in areas where loss of balance is possible - in two hands in the position of self-insurance or as an additional support.

When driving on grassy slopes, protruding, firmly lying stones, bumps, and other uneven terrain should be used for support; on steep slopes, areas of thick grass and small shrubs should be avoided; rockfalls should be avoided over located rocky areas. For steep slopes, shoes with corrugated soles “vibram” are needed, in case of slippery, for example, wet or heavily snowy surfaces, as a rule, “cats” and rope insurance are used. To gain height, tourists move either in steep short zigzags, or make long gentle traverses bypassing rocky areas. When lifting “on the forehead”, the legs are placed with the entire sole, the feet (depending on the steepness) - parallel, half-herringbone or herringbone; when lifting obliquely or serpentine - on the entire foot with a half-herringbone (upper leg - horizontally, loading the outer welt of the shoe more, the lower one - slightly turning the toe down the slope, with a greater load on the inner welt). When descending straight down a not very steep slope, the feet are placed parallel to the entire sole or with a predominant load on the heel, move with their backs to the slope with quick, short springy steps, slightly bending the knees (but not running). They go down a steep slope sideways, obliquely or serpentine, legs are placed in a half-herringbone, as in the ascent. An ice ax or an alpenstock on steep slopes during ascent and descent is held with both hands in the position of readiness for self-holding, in case of a breakdown, if necessary, they are used as a second point of support. In dangerous places, rope belay is organized through tree trunks, rocky ledges, as well as over the shoulder or lower back.

Scree slopes are passed in a group with minimal intervals between participants. When moving along them, one must remember that steep scree sections are especially dangerous with rockfalls. On a small scree they rise “head-on” or in a serpentine, the feet are placed parallel, compacting the step with gradual pressure until the scree stops sliding. You should lean on the entire foot, keep the body upright (as far as the backpack allows). An ice ax (alpenstock) is used if necessary, leaning on it from the front side. They descend in small steps, placing the feet parallel with an emphasis on the heel, if possible, moving down with a mass of small stones and not allowing the legs to tie deeper than the top of the boot; ice ax in the position of readiness for self-detention. On cemented or frozen scree they move in the same way as on grassy slopes.

It is recommended to move obliquely or in a steep serpentine along the middle scree, and at the turning points the guide must collect the entire group so that tourists, for safety reasons, are not on top of each other. Especially dangerous are unstable steep, so-called live screes. Sudden movements should be avoided, the legs should be placed on the entire foot carefully, gently, choosing for support the parts of the stones facing the slope. The ice ax is held in the hand, not leaning on the slope.

On a large scree, they easily move in any direction. The movement is carried out by stepping from one stone to another, changing the pace in order to maximize the use of the inertia of the body with a backpack and avoiding large jumps. When descending and ascending, you need to put your feet on the edges of the stones, closer to the slope. Stones and slabs with a significant slope should not be used.

Rocky slopes, ribs, couloirs and ridges are passed by tourists with a preliminary assessment of the difficulty and safety of individual sections. The main indicators of the impassability of the rocky terrain are its average steepness and its constancy throughout the entire length of the site. When assessing the steepness, it is taken into account that from below, from under the slope, it seems shorter and flatter, especially its upper part. The view from above and “head on” increases the steepness, as it were, and the presence of steep drops hides the distance (dropping small stones helps determine the height and steepness of the slope). A correct idea of ​​the steepness of a slope or rib is given by observing it from the side (in profile) or directly accessing it. The safest for movement are ribs and buttresses; the most simple, but dangerous with possible rockfalls are the couloirs. It is allowed to use the lower part of the wide couloirs to bypass the steepest lower part of the ribs and buttresses, the upper part of the couloirs when reaching the crest of the ridge in dry weather in the early morning hours. It is unacceptable to move along the couloirs during snowfall, rain or immediately after precipitation. Passing on the ridges is safe at any time of the day, except in case of bad weather and strong winds. The "gendarmes" encountered on the ridges bypass the slopes or climb over them.

The basis of climbing rocks is the correct choice of route, the use or creation of supports, and the correct position of the center of gravity relative to the support. There are free climbing using natural support points, ledges, cracks and the so-called artificial climbing, when support points are created using rock and bolt hooks, bookmarks, ropes, loops, ladders. Free climbing can be external - along the wall and internal - in crevices and fireplaces. According to the difficulty of movement, rocks (rock routes) in tourism are divided into 3 groups:

1. Lungs, overcome without the help of hands (hands lean occasionally, maintaining balance).
2. Medium, requiring a limited arsenal of climbing techniques and periodic insurance.
3. Difficult, where any methods of free and artificial climbing may be required, continuous belay of the walker and self-belay of the belayer are needed.

Hands and feet can be used for grips, stops and spreads. At captures of a hand work hl. arr. to maintain balance by loading the supports from above, from the side and from below. The main weight is on the legs. For stops, rock irregularities located below shoulder level and unsuitable for grips are used. The force is directed mainly from top to bottom and is transmitted through the palm or part of it and the soles of the feet. Spreaders are used where there are no protrusions for grips and stops on the rocky surface, and the location of the rocks allows this technique to be used.

On rock routes, the following basic rules are followed:

• before the start of the movement, the route, places of rest, insurance and difficult sections are determined;
• climb is performed, if possible, along the shortest direction - the vertical, choosing the simplest path.

Offset to the side (transition from one vertical to another), if necessary, is performed on the most gentle and easy part of the slope. Before loading a rock support, they check its reliability (inspection, pressing with a hand, hitting a rock hammer), after which they try to use it first as a grip or an emphasis for hands, and then as a support for legs. For a stable position of the body, three points of support are maintained, either two legs and an arm, or two arms and a leg. The main load, as a rule, is carried by the legs, the hands maintain balance. In order to save forces, friction is used as much as possible (stops and spacers). They move along the rocks and load the supports smoothly. In areas where there are good handholds and poor footholds, the body is kept farther from the rock; if there are good footholds, closer to the rock. Before a difficult area, you should rest, determine the points of support and grips in advance and overcome it without delay so that your hands do not get tired. If it is impossible to continue moving, you need to go down to a convenient place and look for a new option for lifting. Hands get tired less if the holds are located no higher than the head; when pulling up, they help by extending the legs. For greater stability, the arms and legs are kept somewhat divorced, they tend not to lean on their knees. The design of modern tourist shoes allows you to use the most insignificant unevenness of the relief to create a support. To increase the traction of the boot with the rock, the pressure of the foot must be perpendicular to the surface of the support. With small ledge surfaces, the foot is placed on the inner welt of the boot or on the toe.

When climbing rocks, extreme attention, caution, and confidence are required. In the event of a fall, hands should be kept in front of you so as not to hit the rock and, if possible, catch on to it. Descent on simple rocks is performed facing away from the slope, leaning on the palms of the hands, bending the knees and body, but not sitting down. On medium-difficulty rocks, they descend sideways or facing the slope, their hands maintain balance, the body is almost vertical. On difficult rocks in short sections they descend facing the slope, but more often they use a rope descent: sports, by the Dyulfer method or with the help of braking devices. Before organizing the descent, you should make sure that the rope reaches the platform, from where you can continue moving or organize the next stage of the descent. The main rope for descent is fixed on a rock ledge directly or with a rope loop, as well as on rock hooks with a carabiner or a cord loop. The strength of the protrusion is carefully checked, sharp edges that can damage the rope at bends are blunted with a hammer. Old hooks and loops must be tested for strength, at the slightest doubt they are replaced with new ones. The cord loop must be double or triple. All members of the group, except for the last one, descend with the top belay on the second rope. The last participant descends on a double rope with self-insurance. Before descending the last participant from below, they check how the rope slides, when jammed, its fastening is corrected. The second rope, also used for pulling, is passed by the last descender through the chest carabiner. The descent along the rope is carried out calmly, evenly, as if walking on the rocks, avoiding jerks. The body is held vertically, slightly turned sideways to the slope, legs slightly bent and widely placed on the rock.

Snow and firn fields and slopes, as well as closed glaciers, are overcome, if possible, in the cold season. Particular attention is paid to the possible avalanche danger, taking into account the steepness of the slope, the time of the last snowfall, the orientation of the slope, the time and duration of its exposure to the sun, and the condition of the snow. When moving on snow and firn, they follow the principle of maintaining “two points of support” (leg - leg, leg - ice ax or alpenstock). The main efforts are expended on trampling down traces and knocking out steps.

For safety reasons, tourists adhere to the following basic rules:

• on a soft snow slope, the foot support is pressed gradually, using the property of snow to freeze when compressed, avoiding a strong kick on the snow;
• with a fragile crust, they pierce it with a foot and press the support under it;
• on a steep crusty slope, they lean with the sole of the boot on the edge of a step punched in the crust, and with their lower leg on the crust;
• the body is held vertically, the steps (supports) are loaded smoothly simultaneously with the entire sole;
• the leader's stride length corresponds to the stride length of the shortest member of the group;
• all members of the group follow each other without breaking, but if necessary correcting the steps; with a strong crust and on a dense firn, the steps are stuffed with a boot welt, cut down with an ice ax, or they use “cats”;
• in case of a breakdown, having warned the partner in a bunch by shouting “hold”, the one who broke off should immediately begin self-detention, and the insurer should stop the slide at the very initial stage.

On a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35 ° rise straight up. With a sufficient depth of soft loose snow, the feet are placed parallel, tamping the snow with them until a snow cushion is formed. With a small layer of soft snow on a firn or ice base, the foot is dipped into the snow with a light blow until it stops with the toe into a solid base. Then, without lifting the toe from the base, the step is pressed with vertical pressure. If the steps move out under load, double pressing of the steps is used: first, with a kick perpendicular to the slope, the first portion of snow is pressed, forming the base for the future step, freezing to the underlying firn or ice, and then, using snow from the sides of the hole, a step is formed on the resulting base. On a very thin layer of soft snow lying on ice and dense firn, you should use "cats". With an increase in the steepness of the slope and the hardness of the snow, they move to a zigzag movement at an angle of 45 ° to the “water flow line”, knocking out the steps with the welt of the boot with oblique sliding blows with the obligatory observance of the “two points of support” rule. On slopes with firn muddy to a considerable depth or covered with dry snow, as well as on slopes with a steepness of 45 ° or more, a lift straight up in three cycles is used. When traversing in a three-beat way, they step over with an added step. Fresh soft snow, softened by the sun, sticks in a lump on the soles of the boots. It must be immediately knocked down by hitting the ice ax on the welt with almost every step.

The deep hoarfrost and frosty sandy recrystallized snow sometimes formed under the infusion are not amenable to pressing. In the first case, only a layer of crust is used for lifting, in the second, a trench is pierced to a dense base, organizing insurance on its bottom through an ice hook or ice ax and knocking out steps.

On a snowy slope of small and medium steepness, they descend with their backs to the slope, straight down or slightly obliquely. In loose and muddy snow they walk almost without bending their knees with a narrow step. On the descent on harder snow, the tracks are pierced by the blow of the heel (to maintain balance, you should lean on the bayonet of the ice ax). If the snowy slope is avalanche safe, then you can go down in a row - each participant makes his own tracks; otherwise, you need to follow the trail. On a snowy, firn or icy snow slope of great steepness, as a rule, they descend facing the slope for three cycles, using and maintaining the steps laid by the leader, or along the railings fixed on ice axes, avalanche shovel, ice hook or snow anchor. On non-steep snowy slopes, visible to the bottom, gliding (gliding) is allowed - on your feet, sitting, on your back or on your feet and a backpack. The slope should end with a safe roll-out, not have areas of open ice, rock outcrops, large stones and pieces of ice; snow - free from medium and small stones. Gliding sitting and on the back is used to overcome narrow cracks and bergschrunds with an overhanging upper edge with mandatory rope insurance. The descender must retain the ability to slow down and stop at any time.

Self-belaying when driving on snowy and firn slopes is similar to self-belaying on grassy slopes. When driving for three cycles, self-insurance is carried out with an ice ax driven into the snow. Self-detention on loose and softened snow is carried out by thrusting an ice ax into the slope above the head with a bayonet and cutting through the snow with the pole, when falling on dense snow, firn, crust or on a thin layer of snow covering the ice - with the beak of an ice ax.

Along the snow ridges and along them they move with simultaneous or alternate insurance. Access to the ridge from the under-eaves side is extremely dangerous, it can be carried out in exceptional cases with maximum caution with climbing along the “line of water fall” in the cold season and cutting a transverse hole through the cornice, with insurance by a partner from a fairly remote point. Traverse under the eaves is not allowed. The descent from the cornice is carried out with cutting or cutting with a rope of an extended section of the cornice with careful insurance.

The technique of moving on ice is determined mainly by the steepness of the ice slope, the state of its surface, and the type and properties of the ice. When walking on ice, "cats" are usually used, less often tricones. On steeper slopes, if necessary, artificial support points are used, namely: cutting steps and grips for hands, driving in or screwing in ice hooks. Movement in "tricked" boots or "vibram" boots is possible on relatively gentle ice slopes, while the movement technique is the same as when walking on grassy slopes. When moving on "cats", the legs are placed a little wider than during normal walking. The "cat" is placed on the ice with a light blow at the same time with all the teeth, with the exception of the front ones. The body should be vertical, its weight, if possible, is distributed evenly over all the teeth of the “cat”. With the next step, all the teeth of the "cat" should come off the ice at the same time. The ice ax is held in a self-insurance position in both hands - with a bayonet to the slope and the beak of the head down.

On gently sloping ice slopes (steepness up to 25-30 °) they rise straight "on the forehead". The legs are placed in a Christmas tree, turning the toes of the legs, depending on the steepness of the slope. The ice ax is used as an additional point of support.

On steeper slopes (up to 40°) move on to zigzag at an angle of 45° to the "water fall line". The feet are semi-herringbone: the closest to the slope is horizontal, the far one is turned toe down, along the slope. When driving on slopes with a steepness of more than 40 ° without a backpack or with a light backpack, you can climb “head-on” on the four front (toe) teeth of the “cats”, which are simultaneously driven into the ice with weak fixed blows. The feet are placed in parallel, the heels are lowered, the body is vertical. The ice ax is held in a self-holding position in both hands in front of you, leaning on the slope with the beak directed perpendicular to the slope, the shaft is lowered down with a bayonet. Movement in three measures with observance of "two points of support" (the beak of an ice ax is a leg or two legs). The descent on gentle slopes is carried out straight down with a “goose step”, driving all the teeth of the “cats” into the ice at the same time. With a greater steepness of the slope, they go down the rope. When driving with a load on steep sections, they resort to cutting down steps, while rising in a serpentine. The step should be sufficiently spacious, without ice hanging over it, with a horizontal or slightly inclined surface to the slope. On a slope with a steepness of less than 50 ° steps are cut in the so-called open stand with two hands, with a greater steepness - in a closed stand with one hand. For the descent, double steps are cut down and they move with an added step, leaning on the ice ax bayonet in the self-insurance position. The steps are located one below the other at an angle of approximately 15 ° to the "water fall line". When moving along an ice ridge, steps, as a rule, are cut on its more gentle side, or the ridge is also partially used.

Safety on the ice slope is ensured by self-belaying with an ice ax, hook belaying, self-belaying by the belayer or with the help of fixed rope railings. Hooks are hammered or screwed into pre-cut steps. The railing rope for ascent and descent is fixed on double hooks, an ice column (usually 50-60 cm in diameter) or an eye drilled with an ice screw.

Glaciers pass, if possible, along ice strips free from stones, along longitudinal ridges of surface moraines, along randklufts or trenches between coastal moraines and valley slopes, along (or along) crests of coastal moraines. Access to the glacier is possible from the lower part of the valley through the end of its tongue or along the terminal moraine, bypassing the end of the tongue along the crests of coastal moraines or randklufts, climbing the slopes of the valley and traversing them to a part of the glacier that is convenient for movement. Overcoming icefalls is carried out along a predetermined route with a preview or reconnaissance of the entire upcoming path: detour along the slopes of the valley, coastal moraines or randklufts, directly on the ice along the coast or in the middle (with a tray surface or thick snow cover). The possibility of a through passage may be evidenced by the median surface moraine stretching from the upper reaches to the base of the icefall. Of the two parallel branches of the glacier, the longer one is less difficult. Icefalls with a southern and southwestern exposure, with the same steepness of fall or height difference, are easier to pass than those with a northern or northeastern one. Cracks are overcome by bypassing (tacking), jumping, including without backpacks, followed by transferring them with their hands, or using descent to the bottom and climbing to the opposite side, and sometimes with an air crossing, similar to crossing rivers. Bergshrunds are crossed by snow bridges. In their absence, on the ascent, the upper edge (wall) is overcome with the help of ice axes stuck into it or an “oblique tunnel” is made - a manhole. Descent - by jumping or on a rope ("sitting" or "sporting way"). On closed glaciers, which pose a particular danger, one should move in bundles of 2-4 people. with an interval between participants of at least 10-12 m, bypassing the zones of cracks that occur on the convex parts of the glacier and the outer. the edges of its turns. When forcing unreliable snow bridges over cracks, alternate belay or belay with a railing is necessary.

We have already discussed how great it is to read the description (a post about route classifications) before going on a route. But this, it turns out, is not enough.

These harmful climbers use such words in their descriptions that one cannot understand without a dictionary and a bottle of beer ... Well, okay, they were joking and it will be. But seriously, I recommend everyone who is interested in mountains to get acquainted with these definitions. Perhaps you will find something interesting for yourself.

Vertex – highest point mountains or massif. Usually the purpose of climbing is to reach the summit (and descend from it). Depending on the form, they have different names:

Peak- pointed top;

Three peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic (Mongolian People's Republic), 3870 m

Dome- top with round shapes;

Elbrus (5642 m) - the top-"dome"

table mountain- top with a horizontal or slightly inclined upper part.

Tirke (1283 m) - table mountain

Route- the path to the summit and descent. I want to note that the descent in this case is an equally important component.

Tour- an artificial heap of stones to mark the route (can be stacked at the top, pass, fork, indicate the place of descent, etc.)

Tour on the pass of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions. Very long-awaited (pass height 3693m)

The descriptions often indicate control tours, in which you also need to change the note (as well as at the top). This additionally certifies the passage of the declared route.

Bivouac– overnight stay on the route or during the conquest of the summit. On obviously long routes, the descriptions may indicate convenient places for bivouacs.

Ridge- a part of a mountain range that connects several peaks.

Pass- the lowest point in the ridge.

Elbrus. Jailyk Peak (4533 m) proudly shines in the sun

couloir- a recess in the rock (internal corner), which arose under the influence of flowing and falling water. They can have dimensions reaching several tens of meters in width and, depending on the time of year, can be filled with snow, firn and ice. The bottom, usually cut by a trough, is the most dangerous place in the couloir.

Open book- an acute inner angle that allows you to make a rise with an emphasis on the legs and arms in the rocky surface.

Trough- a shallow wide internal angle (the concept of "internal angle" can be found in a geometry textbook, presumably for the sixth grade).

Valley- a wide depression between two ridges. Usually a very populated area.

Baksan valley

Gorge- a deep narrow valley with steeply rising, often rocky slopes.

Gorge- a particularly narrow part of the gorge with almost steep slopes.

dell- a depression steeply descending in one direction between two lateral ridges (ribs).

Descent down the gorge

Crest- a face formed by two adjacent slopes, facing the top.

Trek along the ridge to the top of Jantugan (3991 m)

snow cornice- snow drift overhanging one of the slopes of the ridge under the influence of winds. It requires a very careful attitude towards itself - the structure is fragile, if possible, it should be bypassed on the opposite slope, below the level of the ridge.

Khitsan- a rocky island, separated from the ridge as a result of erosion.

Gorge Adyr-Su. View of the Mestian hut

Nunatak- a rocky peak, ridge or hill completely surrounded by ice, protruding above the surface of an ice sheet or mountain glacier.

Saddle(in everyday life "saddle") - a depression between two peaks, from which hollows descend in both directions transverse to the ridge.

View from Babugan-yayla

Slope- the surface of the mountain between adjacent ridges (as an option - the side surface of the ridge). By the nature of the soil or cover, the slopes are grassy, ​​rocky (scree), rocky, ice and snowy.

Scree("sypukha") - a heap of stones or fragments of rocks lying on the surface of the slope. Depending on the size of the stones, screes are large and small.

Training sessions on a grassy slope

Descent from the glacier along the "sypukh"

Wall– a slope or part of a slope with a steepness of more than 60°.

It is worth noting that wall climbs are usually categorized higher than ridge climbs - this can help in finding descriptions of the desired level of difficulty for a particular summit.

overhang- section of the wall with a negative angle of inclination

Cornice- overhanging at an angle of 90 ° to the slope.

Ceiling- Extensive horizontal overhang of rock.

When serious "overhangs", "cornices" or "ceilings" appear in the description, it will not be superfluous to have a ladder and hooks with a hammer (the AID category may not be listed) - if you are not completely sure that you will free climb.

Northeastern Mongolian People's Republic close up

Terrace- a horizontal section of the slope, forming a long step.

In everyday life, small "terraces" are often called " shelves". Usually it is convenient to equip safety stations on them.

Plate- a smooth and flat section of rock with a steepness of up to 60 °.

Buttress- an external corner adjacent to a wall or slope.

Edge- buttress adjacent to the ridge.

Gendarme- elevation on the ridge. When studying the description, it is worth paying attention to which side this or that “gendarme” is doing.

The famous gendarme "Devil's finger" on Mount Sokol in Crimea

Crack- a gap in the rock, having such a width that you can put your fingers in it or drive a hook.

Cleft- the gap in the rock is so wide that an arm or a leg can fit in it.

Cleft on the rocks of Dovbush

Fireplace- a vertical gap in the rock, so large that a person can fit in it.

The technique of overcoming "fireplaces" differs from the usual climbing on the stand or natural terrain (there are no holds and you need to go into the thrust), so it must be practiced separately.

An oversized cleft is too narrow for the body to fit in and too wide for an arm or foot to jam. Usually difficult to climb.

Chimney- a rock formation resembling a pipe. On the Forossko-Mellaskaya wall in the Crimea there is a route of the same name 2B k.s. on the "Tower" array. The “chimney” section is not particularly technically difficult, but leaves an unforgettable impression.

"Chimney" on the route of the same name

Lamb foreheads- rocky outcrops on a scree or snow-ice slope. They are a convex section of rock, smoothed by streams of water, stones or a glacier.

These outcrops are usually avoided - smooth stones are not conducive to free climbing. Especially in mountain boots.

Typical Caucasian landscape

Glacier- Masses of ice sliding in the form of ice rivers from the firn fields down into the valleys.

Kashkatash glacier in the Adyl-Su gorge

Glacier tongue- its lower end.

Moraine- accumulation of rock fragments (at the bottom, along the edges, in the middle or end of the glacier), formed as a result of the destruction of neighboring slopes by the glacier or its bed. Accordingly, lateral, median and terminal moraines are distinguished.

View from the parking lot "Green Hotel"

Icefall(not to be confused with an ice collapse) - a disorderly heap of ice blocks, as well as a system of cracks and faults in places where the glacier bed bends.

Serac– separately protruding ice block of the icefall; represents a potential hazard as it may break off.

Icefall at the top of the Kashkatash glacier

Rankluft- a piedmont crack, formed at the junction of the glacier to the rocky slope (the reason is the thawing of ice from the rocks heated by the sun).

Bergschrund- a transverse crack in the tongue of the glacier, formed due to the movement of the ice mass down the slope.

The bundle overcomes the bergschrund

The main difference between these two words of German origin is that rankluft denotes a crack between ice and rocks, and bergschrund (in everyday life - “ berg”) - in the glacier itself. In addition, there may be a bunch of other cracks on the glacier, which are not specifically named in any way.

Of course, the list is far from complete, descriptions can be expanded and deepened. Therefore, I recommend going to the mountains for details - everything is much more interesting there!

When compiling the dictionary, personal mountain experience, notes by Alexander Guzhviy, Garth Hatting's dictionary ("Mountaineering. Climbing technique." - Moscow, 2006) and the Internet (special thanks to the tourist club "ZHEST" for a good selection) were used. Photos: Olga and Denis Volokhovsky, Vitaly Nesterchuk, Irina Churachenko, Yaroslav Ivanov and others.

To be continued…