Features of this route

Climbing to the top of Aktru 4044 m is real mountaineering. One of the main four-thousanders of the North-Chuysky ridge, translated from the Altai language, Aktru means a white house, a white parking lot, a white dwelling. The Aktru gorge is known as one of the centers of mountaineering in Altai, founded in 1938, after the war it was restored only in 1953.

We invite you to make an unforgettable ascent to the majestic and beautiful peak of Aktru!

Waiting for you:

Acquaintance with the beauty of the nature of the Altai Mountains;

Acclimatization hike to the top Dome of Three Lakes 3556m (1B);

The most beautiful trekking to the Blue Lake;

Technical ice lessons on the glacier;

Climbing one of the main four-thousanders of the North Chuysky ridge - Aktru!

Route climbing to the top of Aktru

settlement Kurai - Alpine camp Aktru - peak Dome of Three Lakes 3556m (1B) - Blue lake - Big Aktru glacier - peak Aktru 4044.4m (2A / 3A) - Blue lake - Alpine camp Aktru - village Kuray.

What do you need from your side

Participants of the trip are required to make an advance payment of 30% of the tour cost no later than a month before the start of the trip (in case of refusal to participate in the tour, the prepayment is not refundable due to the costs incurred for preparation)

• Good physical. uniform and personal equipment
• Clothing (suitable for trekking and climbing, a detailed list of personal items can be found );
• backpack (volume 75-95l);
• warm sleeping bag (comfortable operating mode not less than -5 C)
• rug, sunglasses, climbing boots, crampons, lower harness, carbines 4 pcs, jumar, helmet, descender, safety mustache or piece of rope 3m, ice ax)

If you do not have any of the equipment, you can take it in (not included in the price).

Tour program

Today begins the active part of our walking route in Aktru gorge. We wake up, have breakfast and make a transfer by a cross-country vehicle along a mountain field road to a place called “Perevalka” by tourists. You can get to Perevalka on your own by a four-wheel drive car, if the fords across the Tyute River are not high, and leave the car in a paid parking lot (~ 100 rubles / day). A very bad road begins from Perevalka, which we overcome in a local UAZ. The road of 8 km takes a couple of hours, and we arrive at the place, Aktru Alpine Camp and set up a base camp, from which we will make a radial exit to the Dome of Three Lakes.

Today we make an acclimatization hike to the top of the Dome of Three Lakes 3556m. The way to the top can take up to 14 hours, so we get up very early and start climbing. This ascent has a category of difficulty 1B, but does not present any particular difficulties. Part of the path goes up steeply through the couloir, then we come to a place called "Green Hotel", then the path goes along the glacier to the very top. From the Dome of Three Lakes you can see the Kurai steppe and the entire Severo-Chuysky ridge. In the evening we descend to the base camp, a sauna awaits us.

From June 10 to June 17, in the Aktru Gorge (Altai), work was carried out to improve the mountain infrastructure for tourists, climbers and everyone who visits this beautiful area. In the project's boundaries "Open rocks of Russia" the equipment of sports and educational places for rock climbing and mountaineering was made. The work was carried out on the already existing rock-climbing sectors "Karnizy" and "Red Stone" in the vicinity of the Aktru alpine camp.
Also, a new infrastructure project for this gorge was launched here. "Accessible Mountains". Within the framework of the first stage of the project, the existing system of tourist trails of the region was systematized and their equipment was started.

Works on the rock sector "Cornices"

The equipment of rocks and marking of routes is carried out within the framework of the Open Rocks of Russia and Accessible Mountains projects under the guidance and support of Russian Mountaineering Federation and Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing of the Tomsk Region
Materials and equipment provided company "Vento"(http://vento.ru/) for which many thanks to them!

The Marked Trails of Russia Rutrail project provides comprehensive technical and informational support for marking trails (http://www.rutrail.org/)
Special thanks in person Sergei Astakhov (Tomsk) for the main role in organizing and conducting work in the Aktru gorge!
Many thanks to everyone who helped and helps the above projects to live and be implemented.

Project pages on the Internet:

FAR official website
http://alpfederation.ru/

"Marked trails of Russia Rutrail"
http://www.rutrail.org/
https://www.facebook.com/rutrail/
https://vk.com/rutrail

"Accessible Mountains"
https://www.facebook.com/groups/448405805325682/
https://vk.com/club94522380

"Open rocks of Russia"
http://alpfederation.ru/page/projects/#

Group in the background Kurkurek

Introduction

The idea of ​​climbing ver. Kurkurek along the western slope was proposed by Nikolai Simonov. Ascent and traverse to c. Aktru were declared in the campaign 4 k.s. under his leadership. This section was the real cherry on the cake, but due to the circumstances, it had to be abandoned. Nevertheless, the idea turned out to be so tempting that two participants in the July campaign (Artem and Katya) decided to return to the North Chuisky Range in a month. They were joined by Kostya and Denis, forming the final line-up of the group.

Compound

Route

River valley Maashey - West Kurkurek Glacier - Climbing Kurkurek (3982 m.) from the west + traverse of the ridge to the c. Aktru (4044 m.) + descent from the ridge along the path 2A, alp. (all together 2B tourist.) - ice. Big Aktru - a/l Aktru

Chronology

August 19 - Planned to leave at 5:30, left at 7:30. They raced with clouds and rain. At first we ran away from them, then we got up to eat, and they caught up. In Aktash, the weather finally deteriorated, and we decided to abandon the drop-in on that day. I did not want to start the trip by setting up a tent in the rain. The caster Ereldey took us to a hut somewhere in the Kurai steppe, where we spent the night for 1000 rubles. They left their car in Kyzyl-Tash.

August 20 - At 7:30 Ereldey picked us up and took us to the bridge over the river. Maashey near its confluence with Chuya. The route in this place begins with a height drop of 250 meters, which negatively affects the results of the day. By lunchtime we came to the moraine rampart in front of Lake Maashey. After lunch we passed the moraine wall and fermented Maashey in the place where the lake used to be. The low water level in August allowed us to do this without any problems, however, during periods of active glacier melting, such a ford may be difficult. The weather deteriorated in the evening, sleet began to fall. We spent the night at the turn into the valley we needed, near the mouth of the right tributary of the Maashey. The landmark is a waterfall, a large stream and the end of the forest zone. We settled down on a shelf on a grassy slope. The place is not very flat, we regretted that we did not get up for the night in the woods an hour earlier.

August 21 - Approximately 3.5 hours of dirty (with halts) walking time reached the beginning of the glacier. At the top, everything was tightened, the line of rise was not visible. We decided to stop for a half day, especially since we dined at a convenient place, where in 20 minutes of work a good platform for a tent was leveled with a shovel. At about five o'clock in the evening it cleared up, we went light to the slope to view the ascent. We saw that the glacier was covered with snow.

August 22 - Clear in the morning. We packed up, left, and an hour later we reached the top of the steep ascent to the glacier. Katya had to change her stylish sneakers for layers. Contacted, put on crampons, went up. The first steep climb was overcome rather quickly, but then an inflection began, indented with cracks. Due to the kink, the cracks were not visible from below, so it had to be untangled on the move. I had to go down a little into one of the cracks, step on a snow-ice ledge of incomprehensible reliability. For safety, a railing was hung in this place. The rest of the cracks were overcome by running without sagging. After lunch, we approached the take-off to the northwestern ridge. At this point, we decided to turn right and climb the southwestern ridge, since such an ascent is much flatter, and the cracks on the way were covered with snow. We spent the night on the slope, leveling the area in the snow. In the afternoon, the pace of the group slowed down significantly. Some participants began to show mild symptoms of altitude sickness.

August 23 - Clear again in the morning. We continued climbing the southwestern ridge. We faced an alternative: to go along a more gentle path, but bypassing it, taking it to the right and winding between the cracks; or go to the left along the steep tongue, going up to the ice walls. Since trekking without snowshoes was very tiring, we decided to take a steep but shorter route. After an hour of pure running time, we reached the ice walls. Not finding a passage, I had to climb about 10 meters of the ice wall. The first participant climbed with a backpack and a pair of ice tools on the bottom rope, the rest climbed along the railing with the help of jumars. This was followed by another ice wall, which we managed to climb in bundles along the snow-ice tongue. After it, a gentle exit to the southwestern ridge of Kurkurek awaited us. The weather was clear, and the Severo-Chuysky ridge, Maasheysky glacier, Belukha were clearly visible from the ridge. Soon, became visible in. Aktru and the line of the upcoming traverse. The rest of the way to Kurkurek took about another 2 hours and was a tedious trek through the muddy snow with a gradual climb. The top of Kurkurek is a "football field" - flat and large. It offers wonderful views of the Kurai steppe, the Kurai, Chikhachev, Sev. and Yuzhn. Chuisky. We dined at the top, after lunch it was decided not to go anywhere that day. We knew from A. Shcherbakov that we were facing a technically difficult section, but there was not much time left, and besides, the snow had become limp and unreliable in the afternoon. We barely had time to put up the tent, when a snowstorm began, confirming the correctness of the decision not to go anywhere. One of the participants continued to experience altitude sickness syndromes.

August 24 - Clear again in the morning. That day and the rest of the day the weather was sunny and hot. By lunchtime, the snow had become limp and very strongly stuck to the cats, even the anti-skids did not save. On the descent from Kurkurek to the southern ridge, one rope was hung on the ice. They tried to reset the rope using a self-reversing drill, but they failed, and they had to climb on ice tools with a lower belay. During the descent along the railing, they did not keep track of the mitten, which, taking advantage of the freedom provided, first rolled onto the ridge, could not resist there and went to the Maashey glacier. Then the technically difficult section of the ridge began. Passed it in a bunch, moving alternately. They insured themselves by laying the rope behind the stones. Almost immediately the path was blocked by Zhumabek Zhandarmovich. They overcame it by going along the top and lowering two railing ropes in turn. The second rope was lowered from the ledge on the left in the direction of travel (to see the line of descent, you need to come close to the ledge, from afar it seems that there is an abyss behind the ledge). To organize the railing, two loops were made from expendable rope. This was not enough for Zhumabek, and he took away the hobu from one of the participants. After passing Zhumabek, they found an old supply loop. The loop was removed, they did not use it, instead they continued to walk in a bundle in an alternating movement, laying the rope behind the rocky ledges. A section of a narrow and sharp ridge soon gave way to a wide and convenient for movement. Then we went in conjunction. We overcame Kvadratnaya peak (3750 m), went down to the foot of the pyramidal peak (probable saddle of Mastersky lane 3A). We decided not to go further, because the snow had become limp and it was quite laborious to move along it. The evening delighted us with amazing sunsets. We cooked rice, drank cognac and enjoyed the views.

25-th of August. It was frosty at night, in the morning on frozen snow they covered 200 m in one walk along the crest of the Piramidalnaya peak. We took pictures against the backdrop of Karagem, Maashey and Belukha. In one more trip, we crossed the nodal peak and reached track 2A to Aktra. The weather is good again. Before us, two and four climbers climbed Aktra, all along the 2A path. We did not meet anyone else at the top, although the day was fine again. Leaving our backpacks, we went to Aktra and had a long photo session there, recorded a video, called our relatives (beeline and tele2 are on top). They also tried to contact the hostel in the Aktru valley and order a bathhouse, but it didn’t work out - there was an interruption in communication downstairs. Nevertheless, thanks to a fortunate combination of circumstances, the bathhouse was waiting for us the next day. On the same day we went down to blue lake. The descent along the path 2A was overcome in bundles. On steep sections, they descended facing the slope for three beats. The snow was actively melting, it was wet, but the soft ice made it possible to descend without a railing. We spent the night in the hut of glaciologists. Mice live in the hut. August, 26th. They took off the layers, put on sneakers and slates and ran downstairs at a run. We met a group of tourists-mattresses, they marveled at our appearance and especially at the fact that someone was in shales. We managed to run just in time for the bath. After the bath, we found where to buy beer. Life sparkled with bright colors :)

conclusions

The Kurkurek-Aktru traverse is another path connecting the valleys of the river. Maashey and R. Aktru. In terms of technical complexity, this path is approximately equivalent to other options (Aktru pass and Maashey pass - both 2B), while it is quite long (requires an overnight stay at Kurkurek or the ridge between Kurkurek and Aktru). Its pleasant side is stunning views; aesthetically, this route can be called one of the most beautiful on the North Chuysky Range.

Photo

Traverse view





Spills on the former lake Maashey



Assessment of the situation



Ledn. app. Kurkurek







Hanging cracks



Dealing with snow as best we can

Calendar plan

events of the International research station "Aktru" NR TSU

for 2017:

1. Interregional 17th Alp-Art Festival dedicated to the Independence Day of Russia and the 139th anniversary of NI TSU, year of ecology, 139th National Research Tomsk State University and the Day of the city of Tomsk.

Moderators: National Research Tomsk State University, Department of International and Interregional Relations of the Administration of the Tomsk Region, Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Altai.

In the Festival program:

- June 8 19.00. City-wide charity concert - opening of the Festival dedicated to the 139th anniversary of the National Research Tomsk State University, the Day of the city of Tomsk and the Year of Ecology;

- June 12 21.00. Alpine concert dedicated to the Independence Day of Russia at the Aktru station of the National Research Tomsk State University.

- June 13-16. Open Mountaineering Championship of the Tomsk Region within the framework of the Russian Cup Stage, with the participation of the country's strongest athletes (covered by Russian media).

as well as:

Sports and recreational and sightseeing activities;

Educational master classes;

Demonstration of films from the cycle "Tomsk - the territory of your development";

Field campus course "The contribution of NR TSU scientists to the development and development of the South of Western Siberia."

2. Interregional local history expedition for children and youth under the auspices of the Russian Geographical Society, within the framework of the Year of Ecology.

Moderators: National Research Tomsk State University, LLP "FAiS", TO RGO, Department of General Education of the Tomsk Region.

The Expedition participants will get acquainted with the cultural and historical sights of the Tomsk, Novosibirsk, Kemerovo regions, Altai Territory and the Altai Republic. They will learn about the evolutionary processes that have taken place on Earth, they will go on excursions along the famous Chuisky tract, one of the most beautiful roads in the world. They will also visit the Aktru international research station of the National Research Tomsk State University, where they will get acquainted with the high-mountain ecosystem, unique species of rare plants, and take classes on educational programs - "Young Explorer", "Alpinist of Russia", "School of Safety".

Children will acquire the skills of providing first aid and actions in extreme situations, the technique of moving along various mountainous terrain, they will fulfill the “Alpinist of Russia” standard with the award of a badge, certificate and certificate of a participant in the “Safety School” program of ROSSOYUZSPAS.

Children of the Siberian region of pre-university age will participate in the Expedition, parents are also invited, for whom special programs will be prepared.

3. International Youth Mountain School with educational programs for harmonious development.

Moderators: National Research Tomsk State University, Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing of the Tomsk Region, Federation of Mountaineering of Russia, School of Mountaineering Instructors ENEQ (Canada), Department of General Education of the Tomsk Region.

The Mountain School is held jointly with the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia and the Canadian School of Mountaineering ENEQ.

Children (12-17 years old) and their parents are invited to participate in the shift.

Programs of creative development, training in the technique of safe movement on any mountainous terrain, intensive practices are planned. of English language, team-building games, an introductory course "Academy of Photography", climbing to a peak above 3000 meters with the fulfillment of the standard for the title "Alpinist of Russia", as well as passing a special course "Young Explorer" with the presentation of a corresponding certificate.

Graduates of the shift can earn a certificate from NR TSU, which, upon admission to a university, adds additional points to the overall USE score (discussed).

Shift leaders:

— Ronald Whitehead (Montreal, Canada), head of the Canadian School of Mountaineering Instructors ENEQ, organizer of international summer camps.

— Roman Bryk (Moscow), executive director of the Russian Mountaineering Federation.

— Andrey Puchinin (Alma-Ata — Novosibirsk), twice "Snow Leopard", master of sports in mountaineering. Work experience as an instructor for 7 years, on a shift from the foundation.

— Vladimir Nepokrytov (Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek), The youngest, but at the same time a strong and skillful instructor.

— Elena Borovikhina, head of the School of counselors "Gorro".

4. International Summer Educational School "Natural conditions and habitats of the Arctic and Alpine regions: relief, soils, permafrost, glaciers, biota, lifestyle of indigenous ethnic groups in a rapidly changing climate."

Moderators: NI TSU, TSSW.

The Summer School is focused on joint educational practices of NI TSU students with students from other countries of the world and teachers in the field of "live" communication, as part of an interdisciplinary study of Siberia.

July, 12. Excursion program along the Chuysky tract. Accommodation on the territory of the eco-tourist complex "Nomad".

July 13. Check-in and accommodation on the territory of the Aktru International Research Station of the National Research Tomsk State University, sightseeing tour.

July 17th. Departure from the Aktru station, visiting the Kyzyl-Chin valley, accommodation in the tourist camp "Nomad".

Students and teachers from China, France and Russia will take part in the School program.

School Leaders:

— Terry Callaghan (UK), coordinator of the INTERACT International Network;

— Sergey Kirpotin (Russia), Director of the Center of Excellence, National Research Tomsk State University "BioKlimLand".

5. Carrying out joint scientific research within the framework of the INTERACT-II project

Dates — July

The research programs will be attended by leading scientists from the Institute for the Study of Ecosystems of the National Scientific Council of Italy led by Stefan Ventura, the University of Stockholm (Sweden) led by Peter Kuhry, the University of Umeå (Sweden) led by Jan Carlsen, the University of Lund (Sweden) led by Margaret Johansen.

6 . Student summer practices.

Dates - June-July.

— students and teachers of NR TSU;

— students and teachers of GAGU (according to the Cooperation Agreement) and other universities of the Russian Federation.

7. Field open practical seminar of the Association of graduates of the National Research Tomsk State University on the program "Healthy Lifestyle".

The seminar program includes: yoga classes, practical exercises in mountaineering and climbing to the peaks of the Aktru valley. At the end of the seminar, the participants are awarded a badge and a certificate “Alpinist of Russia, certificate.

8. Traveling Strategic Foresight session with the participation of leading experts, scientists, businessmen, including those from abroad.

The event is held to strengthen the ties of the educational consortium for the development of long-term development programs.

9. All-Russian Mountain Universiade among student clubs and associations mountain sports.

The event is held with the aim of involving student youth in the field of a healthy and active lifestyle, for the formation of teamwork and communication skills focused on solving the tasks.

10. Conducting All-Russian educational programs focused on personnel training and safety in mountaineering:

- token "Rescue in the mountains",

— «School of mountaineering instructors».

Training of personnel to ensure the safety and quality of training during events in mountainous areas. Educational programs are carried out jointly with the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia.

* The calendar is subject to change.

Developments 2016 of the year.
1. Planned arrivals with organized delivery:
1.1. — June 9 to June 18.

1.4. All-Russian Student Universiade of Alpine Sports — June 30 to July 13.

1.5. Local history children's expedition under the auspices of the Tomsk branch of the Russian Geographical Society - July 13 to July 27.

1.7. Practical seminars - "Yoga in the mountains", "Academy of Photography", "Plein Air" - July 27 - August 9.

2. Independent races in June-July:
2.1. Student summer educational practice.
2.2. Research programs of young scientists of the international monitoring network.
2.3. The first stage of the complex research expedition "The entire Ob - from the source to the mouth."