Guide to new Russian wines. "Russian wine guide. In-depth programs include more wines, meetings with the winemaker, horseback riding and other activities - each winery has its own. In this case, participation may cost several thousand rubles.
The domestic wine industry does not have a very good reputation, and because of this, everyone thinks that there is nothing to do in our vineyards. In fact, everything went well in Russia until about the beginning of the twentieth century, and then - first war, then revolution, then war again - there was no time for wine. In 1985, Gorbachev passed prohibition, and all the vineyards that had managed to be restored and planted were destroyed or repurposed production for juices. The industry began to come to its senses only at the beginning of the 2000s, but even during this time our winemakers managed to achieve a lot.
Krasnodar region
In the Krasnodar region, wines are made from international and autochthonous (those that grow only in a specific area) grape varieties. The first include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc, and riesling wines.
Wines from autochthonous varieties are distinguished by their authentic taste and aroma. We have fewer of them, but they are worth hunting for: Krasnostop Zolotovsky, citron magaracha, cupid, black Tsimlyansky, saperavi, rkatsiteli.
How much does housing cost?
On average, a room in a hostel in Krasnodar costs up to one and a half thousand, in a hotel - two or more (hereinafter - according to booking.com). In other cities and villages prices are approximately the same. It is better to plan and book in advance because good options They are sold out quickly, and the cost of housing increases significantly from May to August.
How much does a tasting cost?
The richer the winery’s infrastructure, the more expensive the tourism programs. Minimum cost- about 500 rubles per person. The “package” includes a short excursion and tasting of 4-5 wine samples.
In-depth programs include more wines, meetings with the winemaker, horseback riding and other activities - each winery has its own. In this case, participation may cost several thousand rubles.
Lefkadia Valley, Krasnodar region. Photo: lefkadia.ruThe largest wineries:
“Abrau Durso” - in addition to excursions and tastings, there is a hotel, SPA, yoga, beach, bicycles and a lot of other tourist pleasures. On the territory of the complex there is a lake and forests. It’s not for nothing that the place is called the “Russian Riviera”.
“Lefkadia” - here tourists can visit the wine museum and cheese factory, go hunting or fishing, and even have a wedding. In June, lavender fields of indescribable beauty bloom in the valley.
“Kuban-Vino” - the largest producer in Russia offers excursions to three (!) wineries, tastings in the format of a wine casino and wine painting lessons.
Places recommended by Valeria Ivannikova, wine guide in the Krasnodar region:
“Sober Bash” is the winery closest to Krasnodar, located in a picturesque location near the mountain of the same name. Here tourists are offered an interesting set of wines from autochthonous grape varieties. I recommend trying aged Saperavi and Krasnostop Zolotovsky.
Gunko Winery- a new winery 53 kilometers from Anapa, where it is worth trying sparkling wines, sauvignon blanc and malbec.
“Myskhako Estate” is a winery near Novorossiysk with its own restaurant, snail farm and branded store. The complex offers magnificent views of the city and the sea. At the restaurant, order the Cru wine line.
“Golubitskoye Estate” - a beautiful winery and a real art object on the shores of the Azov Sea with a tour desk, shop and observation deck. Be sure to try the red and rosé pinot noir there.
Interactive map - follow the link
What else to see
Bike festival “Taman - Peninsula of Freedom” - August 1–4.
International Yoga Festival Asana Festival - August 24–31.
Republic of Crimea
In Crimea there are factories opened by Count Golitsyn, enterprises from Soviet times and completely new wineries - if you go to all the tastings, you can taste how Russian winemaking has developed from the 19th century to the present day. And for most Russians, Crimea is a nostalgia for childhood, pioneer camps and camping trips. Therefore, watching the sunset here with a glass of wine is a special pleasure.
Where to stay
A hostel or one-room apartment in Simferopol will cost one and a half to two thousand rubles per day, a hotel room - from two and a half thousand. It’s more expensive in Sevastopol: the most budget accommodation there costs from two thousand rubles per night (according to tvil.ru). It’s probably worth paying a little extra, because from here you’ll spend less time traveling to the wineries, and in between tastings you’ll be able to swim in the sea.
How much does a tasting cost?
About the same as in the Krasnodar Territory - from 500 rubles for a minimum set of wines, from 1000 for an expanded program.
Uppa Winery, Republic of Crimea. Photo: uppa.club
Wineries
"Massandra" - the oldest enterprise in the country, is famous for its dessert and fortified wines. Be sure to try the port and muscat aged in oak barrels. And here you need to look at the legendary “golden” collection of wines in the old cellars of the plant.
"Zolotaya Balka" - a winery with a century-old history received new life with a new owner in 2005. Now there is a modern production facility, an art park with entertainment for adults and children, a brand store, a restaurant and a rooftop bar with mountain views - here you can also try wine cocktails.
Alma Valley- a new large-scale ultra-modern project. Its main advantage is a wide variety of wines: there are basic dry, aged, experimental rare varieties, icevines (sweet wines made from grapes harvested in winter) andTVA (wines made from raisined grapes with noble mold).
“New World” is a sparkling wine factory founded by Lev Golitsyn. You need to come here to look at the heritage - without exaggeration - of the father of Russian winemaking and to taste champagne produced using classical technology. Which, by the way, was very popular at the court of Nicholas II.
Uppa Winery is a chamber winery that produces natural biodynamic wines. Even now, when everything “eco” is in trend, such wines are rare, so you need to taste them. Moreover, Pavel Shvets, the famous Russian sommelier and winemaker, is responsible for their production.
“Satera (Esse wines)” - besides the wines, the tasting format is interesting here. Instead of excursions, museums and tasting rooms - dinner at sunset, instead of master classes - live communication.
Interactive map - follow the link
What else to see
Electronic music festival Sun Spirit Festival - June 8–12.
Lavender Festival in Alushta - every year in early July.
Koktebel Jazz Party Festival - August 23–25.
Georgia
Tourists from all over the world love Georgia because it is interesting, beautiful and very tasty. Winemaking here is as important a part of the national culture as the native language.
Georgia is the birthplace of qvevri, clay wine jugs one and a half to two meters high. Traditionally, they were buried in the ground, grapes were poured in there in the fall, the neck was sealed with clay and left until spring. Such wines are very different from wines prepared in the classic European way (aged in an oak barrel or metal tank), and they also contain little sulfur, which is appreciated by fans of all things natural.
Georgia is one of the few countries that produce more white wine than red. Don't leave until you try white qvevri . This wine has a golden-amber color with green tea and spices in its taste, it is tart and drinks warm - which is absolutely not typical for white wine.
How much does housing cost?
A night in a Tbilisi hostel costs from one thousand to two rubles, a hotel room will cost about three thousand. In the main wine-growing region - Kakheti - the choice of accommodation is quite large and the most common format is a guest house. A room for a day costs up to one and a half thousand rubles.
How much does a tasting cost?
“From “free” (if the tasting smoothly flows into a feast with the winemaker) to a thousand rubles,” says Anna Moskvitina, founder of the project. We are talking about a basic tasting with three to four wine samples, and if you want to try chacha (national strong drink) and have dinner, you will need to pay about two thousand.
Chateau Mukhrani, Georgia. Photo: culinartmagazine.com
Wineries
Manaveli is a family-run eco-winery where you can taste Qvevri wine.
Lagvinari is a small winery producing natural wine featured in several Michelin-starred restaurants in London.
Alaverdi is a monastery where they produce wines that explode Western wine ratings (in 2013, the authoritative magazine Wine Enthusiast included Rkatsiteli from Qvevri in the list of the best wines of the year and rated the wine 92 points out of 100 possible).
Chateau Mukhrani- a large winery an hour's drive from Tbilisi. “If you’re there, be sure to buy Shavkapito wine,” advises Anna Moskvitina.
Teliani Valley is a large winery, also favored by critics, their wines are annually included in the best lists. The winery has a guest house so visitors won't be in a rush to leave.
Veriko is a restaurant and wine library with an excellent selection from Georgy Dartsmelia (co-owner of Bolshoybar and Chemi restaurant in St. Petersburg. - Ed.)
8000 Vintages - here you can taste, drink and buy wine.
Gocha’s Winery is a wine library of winemaker Gocha Ichkitidze, for which the owner personally selected the wines.
Chateau Mere - here you need to eat khinkali, wash it down with kisi and ask the owner if his signature jamon is ripe.
What else to see
Young Wine Festival - May 11, 2019.
Flower Festival - May 26, 2019.
Art Gene Festival (music, modern and traditional arts and crafts in the open air) - July 7–14, 2019.
Interactive map - follow the link
The Republic of Moldova
The most budget-friendly and at the same time absolutely wonderful European wine route. The history of winemaking here began three thousand years BC, and now a quarter (!) of the country’s population is employed in the industry.
The beauty of local wines is that almost all of them are made from autochthonous grape varieties that do not grow anywhere else. Simply put, these are wines with unique taste and aroma.
Veronica Tomescu, co-founder of Winetours Moldova, advises trying wines from varieties feteasca albe, feteasca regale, viorica(white), feteasca nyagre, rara nyagre(red).
Where to stay
In Chisinau, a place in a hostel costs about a thousand rubles a day, a double room in a hotel costs from two thousand. You can also spend the night in an agricultural guesthouse - these are small guest houses in villages far from the bustle of the city of Chisinau. They are built and decorated in traditional national style. A room for two with breakfast will cost from two thousand rubles.
Winery Purcari, Republic of Moldova. Photo: travelomoldova.com
How much does a tasting cost?
On average, an excursion with tasting will cost 18–30 euros (1.3–2.2 thousand rubles). The price depends on the class of the winery and the number of wine samples. Please note that evening or weekend excursions may cost a little more.
Which wineries to visit
Purcari is the oldest winery in Moldova with a huge selection of still and sparkling wines from international and local varieties. Here you simply must try Negru de Purcari, because this wine is regularly ordered to Windsor Palace for Elizabeth II herself.
Cricova- a winery with a unique underground complex for storing wines. The pride of “Cricova” is sparkling wines, which are produced according to the ancient, classical technology of Pierre Perignon.
Vinăria Poiana is a small eco-winery near the Codru National Park, surrounded by hundred-year-old forests.
Château Vartely is a modern European-style winery with a restaurant and hotel. Château Vartely wines so often receive prizes at international competitions that it is difficult to choose which ones to start tasting and which ones to take with you. If you like whites, try any of the Taraboste and Chardonnay dulce Botrytis lines (rare sweet wines made from noble mold grapes). If they are red, you need the Feteasca Regală and Individo Feteasca Neagră collections.
Milestii Mici is a winery and cellar with the world's largest wine collection, numbering more than one and a half million (!) bottles of wine.
Castel Mimi is a building of incredible beauty with a wine library, restaurant and garden complex. A five-star hotel and SPA center will open here soon.
In Chisinau there is a chamber winery ATU, where tourists are greeted by its owner and winemaker. And also wine walks, during which the guide talks about the city, treats you to local wines and plăcinte - national pies with cheese and herbs.
Interactive map - follow the link
What else to see
Street Food & Wine Festival - May 19, 2019.
Electronic Music Festival
The best Russian wine
“Wine Guide of Russia” is a joint annual project of Roskachestvo, the Ministry of Industry and Trade and the Ministry of Agriculture of Russia. Based on global experience in compiling wine ratings, an expert group of leading domestic and international experts, sommeliers and tasters evaluated 320 samples of wines from Russian grapes in five main categories, affordable and widely available in retail.
We remind you that alcohol abuse is harmful to your health. We also inform you that this material is not recommended for viewing by persons under 18 years of age.
The study included wines from 24 producers representing the largest wine-producing regions of southern Russia (Republic of Crimea, Krasnodar Territory, Rostov Region). The wine was selected from the mass price segment - from 200 to 1000 rubles.
The wine was evaluated on a 100-point system in accordance with the international scale of the World Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV). In accordance with the Russian GOST, a wine that scores at least 71 points is considered “good”. The expert commission of Roskachestvo accepted an increased level for the Wine Guide of Russia - 78 points. This is the average value between GOST “good” and “very good” (86 points).
All wine products that underwent quality assessment were divided into five groups: sparkling and pearl wines, red grape wines, white grape wines, rose grape wines, liqueur wines. Within all categories, wines of protected geographical indication and protected place of origin were considered.
From an initial brand list of 926 items, 486 items were selected that met the principles of price and availability. Of these, 320 wines were purchased, the most widely represented in retail trade.
The study included 51 types of sparkling wines, 104 types of white wines, 19 types of rose wines, 114 types of red wines; 32 types of liqueur wines.
Superior In terms of quality, current GOSTs:
1. Of 114 red wine samples, 78 scored ≥78 points (68%);
2. Of 104 white wine samples, 56 scored ≥78 points (54%);
3. Of the 19 rosé wine samples, 9 scored ≥78 points (47%);
4. Of the 51 sparkling wine samples, 38 received a score ≥78 points (75%);
5. Of the 32 liqueur wines, 30 scored ≥78 points (94%);
The category stands out among the various categories of white, red, rosé and sparkling wines due to its stability and level of quality. white semi-dry wines - they showed excellent results - 10 out of 11 wines were highly rated (91% of the samples studied). In category dry reds 78.7% of the studied samples exceeded the GOST standard and were included in the “Russian Wine Guide”.
There are much more difficulties in the category of white and rosé wines with different sugar content (53.85 and 45% of wines, respectively, with scores of 78 points and above). Taking a closer look at the wine categories by sugar content, fewer high-quality wines are represented in the semi-sweet red wine category, with five of the 18 samples examined (27.8%) exceeding the 78 point mark.
In each of the studied categories, wines in the price group from 200 to 500 rubles were highly rated. Price is not necessarily a marker of quality: a number of samples with a higher price lost in estimates to democratic positions.
The best white wine in Russia
White wines are increasing their popularity: if, according to the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia, several years ago consumers preferred red wines in 6-7 out of 10 cases, now the ratio is approaching parity. In the summer season, light and fresh white wines are often ahead of red wines in popularity. At the same time, it can be quite difficult for winemakers to achieve freshness and purity of the aroma and taste of white wines.
According to the research results only 10% of the studied white wines produced in Russia do not reach the lower limit of GOST.
56 white wines out of 104 studied meet the increased standard of Roskachestvo (78 points out of 100 according to GOST). They were the ones included in the rating. Of these 56 wines, 36 are dry, 10 are semi-dry, 10 are semi-sweet.
The rating includes wines from all the largest wine-growing regions of Russia: Crimea (Eastern foothills and Western Crimea, Sevastopol), Kuban (Taman Peninsula, Anapa, Novorossiysk, Krymsk), as well as the Don Valley. The purchase price of white wines included in the rating ranged from 188 to 829 rubles per bottle. The most widespread wine in the ranking was produced in half a million bottles, the smallest produced in the amount of 15,615 bottles.
The following wines were named the best Russian white wine: Alma Valley(3 titles), Chateau Le Grand Vostock(1 name), Chateau Tamagne(4 titles), Fanagoria(4 titles), GaiAI-Kodzor(1 name), Inkerman(1 name), Sun Valley(1 name), "Yubileinaya Winery"(17 titles), ZB(1 name), "Valery Zakharyin"(3 titles), "Vedernikov Winery"(2 titles), "Myskhako Winery"(1 name), "Kuban Wine"(3 titles), "Lycuria"(2 titles), "New Russian wine"(2 titles), "Sauk-Dere"(5 titles), "Sunny Valley"(1 name), "Southern Wine Company"(4 titles).
Top three dry wines, included in the rating, was produced by the Fanagoria, Solnechnaya Dolina and Yubileiny Winery wineries.
Three samples with the highest scores in the category semi-dry wines released at the Yubileiny Winery.
Three best semi-sweet wines produced under the trademarks “Valery Zakharyin”, Alma Valley and Chateau Tamagne.
One of the clear advantages of Russian white wines is their affordable prices, with a fairly high level of quality. 7 of the 10 best wines in the study were purchased by Roskachestvo buyers at prices ranging from 234 to 342 rubles.
It is worth paying attention to varieties that cannot be found outside of Russia. Chardonnay is made all over the world, but the Kokur White variety is common only on the Crimean Peninsula.
The best red wine in Russia
Red wines are traditionally popular among Russian consumers. According to the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia, the vector of consumer demand over the past 10-15 years has seriously shifted from semi-sweet to dry red wines. However, the Russian “northern type” of consumption still makes semi-sweet reds one of the most popular goods in the low and mid-price segment. The purchase price of the samples ranged from 188 to 979 rubles per bottle.
According to the results of the study, the category of red wines made from Russian grapes turned out to be one of the most stable in terms of basic quality. All 114 samples studied received a rating above the minimum according to GOST (71 points). At the same time, 78 red wines (68.42% of the total volume) meet the increased standard of Roskachestvo (GOST score of at least 78 points). They were the ones included in the rating. Of these 78 wines, 73 are dry and only 5 are semi-sweet.
The red wine rating includes products from such brands as Alma Valley(2 titles), Aristov(1 name), Chateau Le Grand Vostock(2 titles), Chateau Tamagne(5 titles), Elbuzd(1 name), Esse(1 name), Fanagoria(6 titles), Gai-Kodzor(2 titles), Inkerman(2 titles), Villa Krim(1 name), ZB(1 name), "Valery Zakharyin"(3 titles), "Myskhako Winery"(2 titles), "Yubileinaya Winery"(13 titles), "Kuban-Vino"(4 titles), Lycuria(1 name), Massandra(6 titles), "Heritage"(2 titles), "New Russian wine"(3 titles), "Planerskoe"(1 name), "Russian tales. Raevskoe"(2 titles), "Sauk-Dere"(6 titles), "Sunny Valley"(3 titles), "Old Crimea"(1 name), "Myskhako Estate"(3 titles), "Southern Wine Company"(4 titles).
Also in the red ranking were five semi-sweet– this is Merlot Vintage and “Select” from the Yubileiny Winery, a blend of Saperavi – Bastardo – Cabernet Sauvignon “Bakkal Su” by Valery Zakharyin, semi-sweet e red from the Solnechnaya Dolina winery and Merlot from the Sauk-Dere winery. The leader among them was the Merlot Vintage wine, which scored 81.77 points.
Gamarjoba, genatsvale!
Every time you go to a new place, you first start searching in a search engine: attractions, where to go, what to visit, etc.
In Georgia and Tbilisi, enogastronomic pleasures play an important role, why should we be deceived?
And we decided to write a big guide (for you and for ourselves “for the future”) back in the spring and asked the “experts” about their favorite and not always obvious places. We didn’t expect then that there would be so much information and it would take so long to digest it.
Lisa, but different. On the general map, her advice will be placed in a separate layer.
Shilda
Since we are talking about Georgian wine, it would be a crime not to go to the wine region of Kakheti. The trip is not at all tiring and takes one day: see the Bodbe Monastery, then take a walk around the city of love Sighnaghi, just find out why it is called that. And for lunch and wine tasting, be sure to stop by the new Shilda winery. Incredible wines and real Georgian food: extraordinary khinkali, assorted pkhali, khachapuri on a spit, kebabs... everything is delicious here.
Address: Kakheti, Shilda village
Tsangala's wine shop & bar
A small wine bar next to the legendary Gabriadze Theater. Here they know everything about Georgian wine; more than 60 wineries are represented, including those with a small circulation, up to 1000 bottles per year.
There are only 3 small tables, and around there are shelves with wine; in the summer there is a small veranda.
There is also a piano opposite the bar, right on the street, and in the evenings you can often hear your favorite melodies.
Very atmospheric and soulful.
Address: 12 Ioane Shavteli St, T’bilisi 0105, Georgia
In general, 5 wine places are 5 regions of Georgia: Imereti, Kakheti, Kartli, Racha-Lechkhumi and the Black Sea coast. Each region has its own wine history, its own signature wines and its own philosophy.
But that is another story. 🍷
What about “innocent” establishments?
Stamba
A cult place from the creators of Rooms Hotel. All the cream of society, fashionable guys, guests of the Aviator Hotel and all this in one beautiful stylish square. Great cocktails, a casino nearby and just an atmospheric place.
Address: 14, 0108 Merab Kostava St, T’bilisi, Georgia
Cocktail Factory
And again the territory of winery #1. Russian guys - cocktail magicians and wizards - made an ordinary Margarita - “a million scarlet roses” with a sauce by the Georgian artist Pirosmani.
Address: 1 Vasil Petriashvili Street, T’bilisi, Georgia
Chachatime
Probably the most alcoholic establishment in the city. Under a degree 🔥, it’s obviously not possible to leave the walls of this establishment vertically, because you’ll have to try a lot and only increase the degree (50,60,70,80).
Address: Geronti Kikodze 3, Tbilisi 0132
Marani Restaurant & Bar
The area of the sulfur baths, a viewing platform, a fashionable establishment for the “locals” under the auspices of the winery of the same name.
Address: 11 I.grishashvili St, T’bilisi, Georgia
Lolita
And again, a cult establishment from Rooms Hotel, next door to Stamba. Outdoors you can combine three in one: cocktails, food + gawk at local fashionistas. Yes, and show yourself.
Very trendy and hipster place. In the morning the DJ is already playing, and Adjarian khachapuri (boat) catches your eye from the Georgian cuisine. By the way, it's delicious. Egg dishes are also very tasty and beautiful. White wine, made using a distinctly European method, is also good. Prices are not humane by Tbilisi standards.
What is the “Russian Wine Guide”? This is an annual project to study wine products, which Roskachestvo creates together with the Ministry of Industry and Trade and the Ministry of Agriculture of Russia. To develop a National Catalog of Quality Russian Wines, a commission of leading Russian and international experts, sommeliers and tasters has been formed.
During the first large-scale study in 2018, based on global experience in compiling wine ratings, the expert group assessed 320 samples of wines from five main categories from Russian grapes.
The experts had to answer fundamental questions. Is there quality wine in Russia? Is it true that Russian wines of good quality are expensive?
We remind you that alcohol abuse is harmful to your health. We also inform you that this material is not recommended for viewing by persons under 18 years of age.
Principles of selection and purchase of wines for the “Russian Wine Guide”
When planning the Russian Wine Guide study, several basic principles were adopted:
- only wines from Russian grapes are studied;
- all wines selected for research must be affordable;
- preference is given to wines produced in large quantities and widely represented in the retail trade.
Raw material base assessment
One of the common consumer myths about Russian wine is: “All the vineyards in the country were cut down under Gorbachev, and wine is made from “powder” and “wine materials.”
First of all, experts from Roskachestvo, with the support of the Ministry of Industry and Trade of Russia, the Ministry of Agriculture of Russia and the Federal Service for Regulation of the Alcohol Market (FS RAR), assessed the raw material base of Russian winemaking.
Over the past few years, the Ministry of Agriculture has been providing subsidies for the establishment of new vineyards in the southern regions of Russia. And their area is approaching 90 thousand hectares. Since 2016, more than half a million tons of grapes have been harvested annually in the Russian Federation. Of course, not all of these volumes go to wine production. They include both table grapes and grapes that are used for the production of cognac (in 2018, more than 45 thousand tons of grapes were used for these purposes). According to estimates by the Center for Research of Federal and Regional Alcohol Markets (CIFRRA), the country can produce 150 million bottles of wine with a volume of 0.75 liters from Russian grapes. Agree, this is a lot. The conservative estimate of Roskachestvo experts is about 120 million bottles.
How to select these grape wines from the total volume of wine presented on Russian shelves?
Confirmation of wine origin
Over the past seven years, Russia has made significant progress in developing a system of protected geographical indications, which serves to control the origin and quality of wine throughout the world. This is a long process that took many countries more than one decade.
In 2012–2014, the first documents (National and Interstate GOST standards) were adopted for wines whose origin from Russian grapes is guaranteed by the state. Since 2017, the production of wines has begun, on the bottle of which an “excise” (federal special) stamp of a special type is placed indicating “Grape wine (special)”, “Sparkling wine (special)” or “Liquor wine (special)”. The word “special” indicates special control over the production of wine, special benefits that a producer working with Russian grapes receives, and the special quality of the finished product.
Having chosen for the study only the products of enterprises with a PGI or ZNMP license, Roskachestvo did not stop there. The system began to work relatively recently, and not all wines actually produced from Russian grapes have received federal special stamps of the new type.
In order to assess from which grapes specific brands of wine are produced, specialists from the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia, on behalf of Roskachestvo, visited all wineries selected for the study and compiled reports on the area and composition of vineyards, and the available technical capabilities for wine production. Experts from the Wine Guide of Russia drove more than 4 thousand kilometers along the roads of Crimea, Krasnodar region, Rostov region, North Caucasus.
In addition to visiting the wineries, aerial photography of the vineyards was used.
Arthur Sargsyan
Chairman of the Roskachestvo working group on wine research, head of the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia
– The Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia has been studying domestic winemaking for more than eight years, annually visiting wineries, selecting and tasting more than 1,600 samples at different stages of production every year. The main goal is to choose the best wines from Russian grapes. We used this experience in the Roskachestvo study. In Russia today there are about 89 thousand hectares of vineyards. This is together with the planting of table varieties and grapes, which are used for distillation. The farms that we studied have a total vineyard area of almost 40 thousand hectares. These are perhaps the highest quality vineyards that currently exist in the country.
As a result, the general brand list of wines made from Russian grapes included 926 wine samples. The brand list will be updated annually. Russia is a country with fairly pronounced climate risks in viticulture. The concept " good year“It’s very important for our country. Wine of the same brand, actually produced from Russian grapes, can vary significantly in quality, depending on the conditions of a particular year. Therefore, Roskachestvo wine research is planned to be made annual, increasing the number of samples studied.
Price and Availability
For the Wine Guide of Russia, it was decided to focus on wines that are produced in the largest quantities and are affordable. The initial brand list included wines produced in just a few hundred bottles and costing up to 6 thousand rubles. The rarest and most expensive examples may be sold in only a few boutiques and restaurants and be of interest to connoisseurs, but they are unlikely to have a serious impact on the wine shelf throughout the country.
Thus, the study included wines produced in quantities of at least 10 thousand bottles of one name in a specific vintage year. Preference was given to wines produced in quantities of more than 50–100 thousand bottles. In some cases, when the number of large-circulation wines of a certain category was insufficient for an objective comparison, a decision was made to purchase wines with a circulation of 10–50 thousand bottles.
The most widely produced wines in the study are produced in quantities of more than a million bottles and are available in almost any city in Russia. Studies of vineyards have confirmed the actual capabilities of Russian producers to produce wines in such quantities. Russia is a country of large proportions. Including in agriculture. The seven largest Russian wineries have areas ranging from 1.5 to 9 thousand hectares of fruit-bearing vineyards. In world practice, only a few companies manage their own vineyards of such an area, and there are only a few private companies owning a vineyard with an area of 8–10 thousand hectares.
Another selection criterion is affordability.
In the study, a price “ceiling” was chosen - 1000 rubles on a store shelf. But most of the wines studied cost much less than a thousand. Of the total brand list of wines (486 samples), 212 cost up to 350 rubles on the shelf, another 152 items are sold at prices from 350 to 500 rubles at retail.
– Five hundred rubles is a fundamentally important price limit for wines on store shelves. The majority of sales, especially outside Moscow and St. Petersburg, come from inexpensive wines. Up to half of the volume of wine that buyers in Russia purchase is wine up to 300–350 rubles, and the category “from 500 rubles” in regional retail chains accounts for virtually single sales. It is important to note that in this price category, Russian wines now need to compete on equal terms with imports from fairly well-known wine-growing regions of Europe and the New World. This means that the issue of the relationship between price and quality of wine in this price group is fundamental for producers, says a member of the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia, head information center WineRetail Alexander Stavtsev.
Research by Roskachestvo has repeatedly noted that an inexpensive product can be of high quality. One of the objectives of the study was to check whether the opinion about the low level of quality of Russian wines costing 250–500 rubles per bottle is true or whether it is a stereotype. Looking ahead, we note that in terms of price-quality ratio, a number of samples in the study turned out to be excellent.
Procurement and encryption of samples
The wines included in the brand list of the study were purchased by independent buyers in organized retail trade. Since we were talking about researching wines with the widest possible presence in Russia, they were purchased mainly from large retail chains. Buyers selected wines from the shelves of Pyaterochka, Magnit, Verny, Metro, Azbuka Vkusa stores and others.
From an initial brand list of 926 items, 496 items were selected that met the principles of price and availability. Of these, 320 wines were purchased, the most widely represented in retail trade.
Buyers purchased several bottles of each wine (including control and arbitration samples) to conduct the study. All wines were submitted for research to a laboratory accredited by the Federal Accreditation Service in an impersonal form. Not only the tasters, but also the laboratory staff knew only the code of the sample, which completely eliminated bias in the assessment.
Study details
Expert group
In the “Wine Guide of Russia” study, Roskachestvo for the first time focused not on laboratory tests, but on organoleptic indicators of wine quality. Simply put, on their color, aroma and taste.
To conduct the research and development of the National Catalog of Quality Russian Wines, a tasting commission of 23 Russian and two Italian experts with extensive experience in sensory evaluation of wines was formed. Thus, the Russian jury included the President of the Russian Sommelier Association Alexey Sidorov, sommeliers - champions of Russia different years(according to the Russian Association of Sommeliers and the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia) Alexey Fomichev, Pavel Kravchenko, Evgeny Bogdanov, judges of Russian international wine competitions, wine experts and journalists and teachers of wine schools Alexander Sidorov, Yuri Yudich, Alexander Stavtsev, Anton Obrezchikov, Andrey Ushakov . Author of the book “Wines of France” and legendary teacher Alexander Kuptsov, author of the most popular blog about wine Denis Rudenko. Chef sommelier of the Andrey Dellos Restaurant House Sergey Aksenovsky. Professional tasters and teachers certified by the international education system Wine & Spirit Education Trust Vasily Raskov and Dmitry Merezhko.
It should be noted that gender equality reigns among wine experts. For example, Margarita Krasnopolskaya became the first certified teacher of the international Wine & Spirit Education Trust (UK) system in Russia. The first title of Austrian wine academician Weinakademie Österreich among Russians was received by sommelier and wine school teacher Tatyana Selivanova. One of the first all-Russian sommelier competitions according to the Russian Sommelier Association was won by Yuliana Grigorieva, who today runs one of the reputable sommelier schools, Wine People. All of the listed titled persons from the world of wine experts were included in the jury of the competition. The jury also included Candidate of Biological Sciences, teacher Irina Godunova, head of the New Russian Wine project Elena Porman, certified expert tasters Svetlana Smirnova, Inna Inal-Ipa, Elena Bondarenko.
The international expert community was represented by Italian experts Alfredo Toccini, a representative of one of the largest European wine research laboratories, and Professor Riccardo Valentini, an expert in the field of oenology, scientist, Nobel Prize winner in the field of climate research and its impact on agriculture.
The head of the tasting commission was the most authoritative expert in the field of Russian wines, the champion of Russia in 2005 according to the RAS, the head of the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia Artur Sarkisyan.
The main question that arises when assessing the quality of wine is the objectivity of the tasters.
It would seem that everyone has their own preferences. Some people like red, others white. How to find the truth? Are tasters, assessing wine in a glass, able to identify a falsified product, which the media has dubbed “powdered wine”?
In serious organoleptic studies, the tasting panel is an instrument that must be properly adjusted and whose operation is carefully monitored to assess objectivity.
The Roskachestvo study was carried out in a sensor laboratory equipped in accordance with Russian and international standards for conducting such studies (GOST 32051-2013 “Wine products. Methods of organoleptic analysis”, GOST ISO 13299-2015 “Organoleptic analysis. Methodology”) and having an accreditation certificate from the Federal Accreditation Service ( Russian Accreditation), as well as an expanded scope of accreditation for the training of selected testers.
Before the start of the study, each taster, regardless of regalia, had to confirm the level of his competence and undergo a sensory sensitivity confirmation procedure, during which the level of sensory sensitivity was assessed when assessing color, taste and aroma. Then the tasters were tested for their ability to distinguish wine defects (vegetable tones, the smell of onions, rotten eggs - indicating diseases of the wine associated with violations of production technology), as well as impurities unrelated to the product (artificially introduced grain alcohol, flavorings). Finally, the “convergence” and “reproducibility” of the results were assessed when the same wine was asked to be assessed “blindly” a few minutes apart or the next day. All results were recorded and compared.
Only after successfully passing all these tests was it decided to include the taster in the group of selected testers.
Research procedure
The study was carried out according to strict rules set out in the regulations of the World Organization of Vine and Wine (WOVV/OIV), in GOST 32051-2013 “Wine products. Methods of organoleptic analysis" and GOST ISO 5492-2014 "Organoleptic analysis" for conducting sensory assessment of wine products.
According to the rules, the commission could not examine more than 50 wine samples per day, which were served over four tasting sessions with breaks. Thus, the work to evaluate 320 samples lasted more than a week.
Before the start of the study, the temperature and humidity in the room were assessed (their parameters are also recorded in the standard).
If the taster used perfume before starting work or had difficulty smelling due to a runny nose, he was removed from the tasting.
“The entire study was organized at a very high technical and methodological level,” noted Alfredo Tocchini, an expert from the largest Italian laboratory VIMEA, who took part in the work of the commission. – Our laboratory annually conducts instrumental and sensory studies of more than a million wine samples, and I can say that the organoleptic assessment in Moscow was carried out simply perfectly!
Tasters worked in individual booths where they could concentrate and did not see the reactions to their colleagues' wines. At traditional tastings, where the entire commission gathers at one table, an approving or negative remark from a recognized master can affect the entire assessment of the commission.
In the Roskachestvo study, each expert was left alone with a glass and his own opinion. The shape of the glass is also approved by the standard, and 700 standard glasses suitable for tasting all types of wines were specially purchased for the study. Exactly the same ones are used by tasters at the largest international wine competitions held according to the standards of the World Organization of Vine and Wine (OWV/OIV).
Rating system
In the process of assessing samples, professional tasters do not swallow wine, but spit it into a special sink equipped with each tasting booth. For an experienced specialist, it is enough to completely wash the oral cavity with wine to evaluate its taste and aftertaste, and after the final coffee break, each expert could successfully take a breathalyzer test, because assessing each of the 12 parameters of wine requires an absolutely clear mind.
The standard electronic questionnaire for each sample includes four main groups of parameters:
- appearance;
- aroma;
- taste;
- the general impression, which is also called the “harmony” of the sample.
The three main parameters are divided into "descriptors". For appearance wine is about transparency and quality of color (an experienced taster can determine the fault of a wine by extraneous shades in color without even trying it). When evaluating sparkling wines, the taster also evaluates the “game” (or “perlage” - in professional language). For aroma: purity, intensity, quality of aroma. For taste, this is also purity, intensity, quality, as well as aftertaste.
– In my work, my colleagues and I, as a rule, deal with wines of more high level, serious and expensive restaurant positions. But the “basic values” are the same for all wines. In this study, we did not expect a particularly complex bouquet or noble tones of aging in taste from inexpensive samples. But even inexpensive “everyday” wine can be of quite high quality. We were primarily interested in purity in aroma and taste, the absence of defects, foreign tones, shades of oxidation, and burning tones in the aftertaste due to exceeding the threshold of “volatile acids.” I can say that there were much fewer frankly bad samples than we expected,” says Yuliana Grigorieva, director of the Wine People sommelier school.
The Italian expert, Professor Riccardo Valentini, also agrees with his Russian colleague.
“I noted for myself the purity of Russian sparkling wines,” said scientist Riccardo Valentini.
The taster evaluates each of the descriptors in numbers, which add up to the final rating of the wine. For the Russian Wine Guide, the international 100-point scale of the World Organization of Vine and Wine (WOVV/OIV) was used.
Higher than according to GOST
In accordance with the Russian GOST, a wine that scores at least 71 points is considered “good.” Roskachestvo adopted an increased level of 78 points as a starting point. This is the average value between GOST “good” and “excellent” (86 points).
Read more about the 100-point wine rating system.
Research results
All wine products that underwent quality assessment were divided into five groups (in accordance with GOST R 55242-2012 “Wines of protected geographical indications and wines of protected appellations of origin. General technical conditions”, GOST 32030-2013 “Table wines and table wine materials. General technical conditions", GOST 33336-2015 "Sparkling wines. General technical conditions", GOST 32715-2014 "Liquor wines, liqueur wines with a protected geographical indication, liqueur wines with a protected designation of origin").
- Sparkling and pearl wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines, as well as wines of the traditional name “Russian champagne” in the brut, dry, semi-dry and semi-sweet categories).
- Red grape wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines, dry and semi-sweet).
- White grape wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines, dry, semi-dry and semi-sweet).
- Rose grape wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines, dry, semi-dry and semi-sweet).
- Liqueur wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines).
The study included wines of 320 names from 26 producers representing the largest wine-growing regions of southern Russia (Republic of Crimea, Krasnodar Territory, Rostov Region).
- Of the 114 red wines, 68% scored ≥78;
- Of the 104 white wines, 56 received ≥78 points for 54%;
- Of the 19 rosé wines, 9 received ≥78 points for 47%;
- Of the 51 sparkling wines, 38 received ≥78 points 75%;
- Of the 32 liqueur wines, 29 received ≥78 points 90%;
These are 38 sparkling wines, 56 white, 9 rose, 78 red wines; 29 types of liqueur wines.
The category of dry red wines stands out among white, red, rose and sparkling wines due to their stability and level of quality (78.7% of the studied samples were included in the “Russian Wine Guide”). Winemakers are almost as good at sparkling wines of different categories (74.5% of quality wines).
There are much more difficulties in the category of white and rosé wines with different sugar content (53.85 and 45% of wines, respectively, with scores of 78 points and above).
If we look in more detail at the categories of wines by sugar content, the category of semi-sweet red wines turned out to be the most problematic in terms of quality: only five samples out of 18 studied are worthy of attention (27.8%).
But white semi-dry wines showed excellent results - 10 out of 11 wines were highly rated (91% of the samples studied).
Summing up the results of the study, it is worth noting that in Russia, of course, there are high-quality wines at an affordable price. In each of the studied categories, wines in the price group from 200 to 500 rubles were highly rated. Moreover, price is not necessarily a marker of quality. A number of samples with a higher price were inferior in estimates to democratic positions.
Russian winemaking is developing, and the “Russian Wine Guide” project will develop along with it, creating guidelines for buyers in choosing quality wines from Russian grapes. In 2019, it is planned to expand the scope of the study and evaluate at least 500 Russian wines.
The ability to choose and drink wine is a real art. Not all lovers of this drink can boast of perfect knowledge in the history of winemaking, serving and wine tasting. However, you can enjoy good wine without the title of professional sommelier.
We have prepared a non-trivial wine guide for you: from it you will learn not only how to choose, combine and serve wine, but also the most necessary household life hacks related to this drink.
Red and White
For all dry red wines, the main rule applies as standard: no sweet dishes. Forget about the “fish + white wine” stereotype: sweet and sour red wines with low tannin content are included in the universal category, and grilled fish is ideal as an appetizer. Meat and vegetables are the perfect companion for almost all red wines, but be careful: some rich varieties get lost when paired with hot and spicy dishes.
White wines are more unpretentious, although herbaceous or rich nutty varieties do not go well with hot meat dishes, while aromatic wines enjoy complex company, which fits both exotic fruit snacks and cold, lean white meats.
Dry, fruity rose wines go well with almost all dishes, but are dense meat dishes It's better to leave it aside.
Wine and cheese
Cheese is an excellent wine partner. If you are racking your brains about what to serve with an expensive bottle of good wine, choose this time-tested combination - you can’t go wrong.
Hard cheeses are usually served with expressive red wines: this can be Australian shiraz and similar spicy, warm or even mature, vintage wines.
For lovers of brie, camembert and delicate goat, we recommend paying attention to light white wines (for example, sauvignon blanc). But with blue cheeses, everything is not so simple: their rich aroma is not so easy to emphasize successfully, and sommeliers advise eating them with sweet fortified wines (port).
White grape varieties
Knowing popular basic varieties and a few professional tasting terms, you can quickly and happily make a choice in wine boutiques, almost completely eliminating the possibility of stumbling upon an unsuitable taste.
The amazing bouquet of Chenin Blanc will appeal to lovers of deep, sunny wines. Originating from Burgundy and now grown in all wine-producing countries, Chardonnay pairs perfectly with almost any dish and always delights with buttery, fruity aromas.
Not everyone will like the complex taste of nutmeg. The same applies to the closest “relatives” of this variety - Italian Moscato and Spanish Muscadelle. Assertive, honeyed Pinot Gris is prized for its spiciness and intensity of flavor, while the charming Riesling is prized for its sourness that blends well with floral notes. If you prefer fresh, clean, sharp notes, buy Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.
Red grape varieties
The two basic varieties of red wine are Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The first is ideal for your first introduction to red wine, juicy, clean, fruity and refreshing. The second has a rich blackcurrant hue. It is often blended with Merlot to achieve the perfect taste and deep bouquet.
Italian, Argentine and Californian wines made from the Sangiovese variety are famous throughout the world for their unique sweet and sour taste with hints of cherry and plum.
The most rich, spicy and warm red wine is, of course, Shiraz. These are powerful, dense and tannic wines with a velvety texture. The traditional Spanish variety Tempranillo has a strawberry accent, body and a festive, cheerful taste.
How to cool
Serving temperature is a very important factor that directly determines whether you like the wine or not. The thing is that if you overcool the drink, it will lose its bright taste and special aroma, and if you serve the wine too warm, you will spoil its refreshing qualities.
However, it is believed that it is better to overcool than overheat: serve the wine chilled and simply warm the glass in your palms so that the aroma of the drink is fully revealed.
Not a single wine, even the most expensive and high-quality one, will be tasty at a temperature higher than room temperature: 15-17 degrees is the optimal temperature for serving all red wines, while whites prefer it colder - 8-10 degrees. Neutral, very dry and sparkling wines should be cooled strongly - up to 4-6 degrees.
Which glasses to serve in?
Choosing wine glasses is not as complicated a science as choosing the wine itself. The most suitable form for all varieties without exception is a “blooming” (slightly widened upward) tulip on a long thin stem.
Sparkling wines “love” tall, very narrow glasses: bubbles will remain in these glasses longer. Do not choose colored glasses: they will interfere with the color of the wine and its characteristics (for example, maturity or youth).
Glasses require special care: do not use detergents when washing them. Residues of dishwashing detergent will adversely affect the bouquet of wines that are destined to end up in these glasses. It is better to wash them in very hot water and let them dry thoroughly. Store glasses in an upright position to prevent air from stagnating in them.
Selection of sparkling wine
A good sparkling wine cannot be too cheap, too sour or too sweet. It is best to choose a quality brut: it is a very fresh, dry, light, but at the same time rich sparkling wine, suitable for most dishes.
The popular Italian "Asti", "Prosecco" and "Lambrusco", the German "Sekt" and the Catalan wine "Cava" are in the middle price category and most often do not disappoint.
Even if you prefer dessert, sweet wines, opt for semi-dry sparkling wine: a sweet sparkling wine that turns out to be tasteless and (or) of poor quality will look more like children's lemonade than a refined drink. Remember also about the calorie content, which will directly depend on the sweetness of the drink.
Finding your taste
When you first find yourself in a wine boutique, you can make a long and painful choice. Don't neglect the help of a good consultant and trust your intuition. If you want to feel like an expert, read a few articles or an interesting reference book that will help you navigate the basic concepts.
Follow wine reviews on the Internet and in magazines, don’t be lazy to read back labels and look for “your” wine store that conducts tastings, offers a wide range of properly stored wines and is always ready to recommend cheaper offers of decent quality.
Don’t avoid wine restaurants, try homemade wine and be sure to pay attention to wines grown in developed wine-growing regions: Italy, Australia, Portugal. So sooner or later you will find your ideal combination of price, quality and taste.
How to become a sommelier
Developing tasting skills is very simple: just teach yourself to remember the smells and basic fruit aromas that are most often found in wine. If you treat yourself to good wine once a week, remember the labels and names.
You can even try keeping a wine diary: a few keywords will help you remember your feelings later and make a great choice next time.
Always look for words to describe the taste and aroma of the wine. It can be sharp, aggressive, astringent, expressive and complex, or it can be soft, gentle, light, neutral, fresh and clean. Wines without a distinct aroma are typically described as dull, poor, simple and flat, while their opposites can be described as rich, ripe, full, powerful and oily.
Collect traffic jams
Don't throw away wine corks! From them you can build a lot of beautiful and useful things for the household, as well as decorations for the home. Three-dimensional letters, paintings and boards on which you can attach photographs without damaging the wallpaper are our favorite example.
From wine corks you can make a wonderful photo frame, make toys for the cat (he always loses them anyway, so why waste the good stuff?), coasters for hot dishes and real crafts. It all depends on your imagination!
Wine corks make a stunning massage bath mat. Wood is a durable, natural material, pleasant to the touch. By sawing the corks lengthwise and gluing them onto a rubberized base, you will get a very nice, stylish and reliable rug that will become interesting detail interior
Wine ice
We think of wine ice cubes most often in hot weather: in summer they are great as an additional drink cooler. For example, you can add frozen wine cubes to a pitcher of sangria.
If after the holidays you have leftover wine that you obviously won’t finish, don’t pour it out, just freeze it in molds. The next time you make a recipe that calls for wine, you won't have to spend money on a whole bottle of wine - you'll just use your own ingredients.
You can use wine ice cubes to make cocktails, sauces, salads and even... to make wine soap!