Russian harbor. Zinovy ​​Kanevsky: “Ice and fate, famous and unknown

CHAPTER SIX WHERE IS HIS HARBOR! Theologians, busy with the preliminary investigation, call Bruno's views heresy. He has a dilemma. He must either admit his guilt, or, stubbornly, please the Inquisition. And then what? The Holy Office is not the right place for philosophical

The Russian soul Gogol did not need to find out whether he was a Little Russian or a Russian - his friends dragged him into disputes about this. In 1844, he answered Alexandra Osipovna Smirnova’s request in this way: “I’ll tell you one word about what kind of soul I have, Khokhlatskaya or Russian, because this is how I

Sp Rùskaja Gãvanės įlanka Ap Zaliv Russkaya Gavan’ L Barenco j., RF prie N. Žemės … Pasaulio vietovardziai. Internetinė duomenų bazė

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Portal:Arctic/Projects/Islands of the Novaya Zemlya Archipelago- This project was created to coordinate work on the creation of articles about the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago. On the basis of the project, a list of islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago was created. Contents 1 Maps 1.1 Scale 1:200,000 ... Wikipedia

Arctic/Projects/Islands of the Novaya Zemlya Archipelago- Portal:Arctic/Projects/Islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago This project was created to coordinate work on the creation of articles about the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago. On the basis of the project, a list of islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago was created. Contents 1 Maps 1.1 Scale ... Wikipedia

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Russian Harbor and some skiing.

One of the possible exotic places for skiing in summer (except for sand skiing in Dzerzhinsk of course :-) is the glaciers of Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land. In September 1997, I managed to visit one of them, and after that, the north, like Cheget once, forever sunk into the soul. But with Cheget, of course, it’s easier, and getting to Novaya Zemlya is quite problematic. Although in calm weather and with almost non-fading sun, the Barents Sea looks magical.

Russkaya Gavan, the largest bay of Novaya Zemlya, is located on Severny Island at latitude 76N. They say during the war, German submarines came in to refuel. After the war, it was already chosen by our military and polar explorers. The entire coast is littered with building materials and the remains of construction equipment. Numerous local roads are marked with empty tanning barrels. But, they say, this is a necessity. Otherwise, you can go astray in winter.

The photo shows houses where people still lived until 1995. And I think that in best years stagnation, about 100 people wintered here. The houses are in good condition and, if desired, you can spend the winter in them. Storerooms have stocks of melted fat in jars and some cereals. Delicacies and alcohol are absent.

The Shokalsky Glacier slides down from the Central Range of Novaya Zemlya with a long tongue and breaks off into the Russian Harbor.

You can ride on the glacier, although of course it is gentle. But if you go deep into the island for 8-10 km, then there the slope increases, I think, up to 15-20 degrees. But I moved no more than 2 km. (Moving around Novaya Zemlya, and even more so along the glacier, is supposed to be only in pairs, because of the polar bears, which, they say, have become too much. But we did not see them.)

A wide strip of even ice stretches along the edge of the glacier,

which turns into impenetrable cracks

and sugar loaves.

It is very pleasant to accelerate in a straight line and roll along the edge of the beginning faults. They are usually flattened and throw you into the air like trampolines. The main thing at the edge of the glacier will stop ...

A strong wind almost constantly blows from the glacier, which sprinkles the ice with fine brown dust from the surrounding mountains. The grains of sand heat up in the summer sun and sink 2-3 cm under the ice. Therefore, the ice has a gray or brown color. The surface becomes porous and provides excellent glide.

Turning skis is a pleasure.

In general, given the gentleness of the slope, it is an ideal place for beginners to learn. Exactly, no snow groomers are needed, the wind has smoothed everything out for many hundreds of years. At some point, the wind died down and then everything was filled with an unprecedented silence that pressed on the ears. Unforgettably.

The surrounding landscape can be described with only one word - desert. What the deer eat there, the traces of which we found, I personally do not understand. The surface of the earth is loam mixed with small pebbles. I managed to see a few spots of lichens, 1 cm high. And that's it! It is also not clear how the deer get over this glacier. Apparently, if you go deep into the island, then there are smooth areas. Swimming in the sea is difficult. The water is around 0 degrees.

The surrounding bays are inhabited by waterfowl. But their meat stinks strongly of fish. A small river with cold water flows out from under the glacier, which is very good for diluting alcohol :-) My head does not hurt at all in the morning. Yes, information for the "greens": NO RADIATION. I don't know why, but no. Experienced men with whom I beat there say that in the center of the island there are sometimes closed lakes with increased radiation. But only in the testing area. And it's much further south. Apparently, nature has learned to deal with its main enemy - man.

And besides Novaya Zemlya, we also swam to Franz Josef Land (80 N)

But there, unfortunately, I did not ride and did not land. It's a pity ... Theoretically, it's better to ride there. There are small glaciers and a lot of snow, which periodically falls and melts in summer.

In general, the north is as stunning as the mountains. If it were possible to spend the winter on Cheget, and wander around Novaya Zemlya in the summer, then it would probably be happiness. But unfortunately it doesn't work...

It remains to add that all this was organized with the help of MAKE (Marine Integrated Arctic Expedition) and its leader Boyarsky Petr Vladimirovich. And, besides skiing, there was also work together with the permanent employees of this organization, excellent-class men!

Flight diaries are kept daily by Natalya Avdonina, Ph.D. in Economics, Associate Professor of the Department of Journalism, Advertising and Public Relations of NArFU named after M. V. Lomonosov.

Information about the location of the vessel "Professor Molchanov" can be obtained at.

In the high-latitude Arctic, all terrestrial flora and fauna are unevenly distributed. Much of the space we have moved through is lifeless. Any flower, any bird is perceived as an exception rather than a rule.

Ninth day of the expedition. There has been no internet since the evening of Saturday, July 14th. We live outside of time and space. Yesterday imperceptibly for all passed into today. We approached Russkaya Gavan Bay at 21.35.

- Alter Ego. "Professor Molchanov". Please provide location, number of people. What are your problems?

- "Professor Molchanov." 10 people on board. Everything is fine. I'm going to you.

On line 16, our vessel received a distress signal from the Alter Ego yacht. When she approached the "Professor Molchanov", our expeditionary group was already heading towards Lake Retovsky. They went to Russian Harbor to wait out the bad weather. On the clock - two nights.

We went to land in six boats. The nerd team, as we were called on the bridge, was the last to leave. Rangers and geologists left on the first one to check the station for polar bears that could be waiting for us in the destroyed buildings.

Three field teams worked on the shore: to collect geological and biological samples and marine debris. A group led by Anna Vesman selected garbage within a perimeter of one hundred meters from the shore in order to sort and identify the main sources of pollution. Fishing nets, small household items - all this is nailed by the wave and remains lying on the abandoned shores of the Russian Harbor, waiting for the next expedition.

We were given the go-ahead to prepare for disembarkation at about one in the morning, by which time nearly all the other parties had returned to the ship. "Zodiac" shook every now and then, while we went down into the boat. The coastal water of the Barents Sea has an incredible aquamarine hue due to low salinity.

We stepped onto the rocky ground of Russkaya Gavan, which, according to observations in the 1970s, was an arctic desert. Now this land is more like a tundra, according to Dmitry Nikitin, a fourth-year graduate student in the Department of Soil Science at Lomonosov Moscow State University.

We made our first stop near a shallow stream. Andrey Przhiboro, a senior researcher at the Zoological Institute of the Russian Academy of Sciences, set up traps for insects and began to walk around with a net, crouching every five minutes and removing mosquitoes from it. Andrei Alexandrovich explained that he does not count the number of samples collected, but the points where these samples were taken. At the same time, he collects coastal and bottom substrates, from which he then extracts insects or other invertebrates, including larvae, and grows them in laboratory conditions in the collected soil. Andrey Alexandrovich will wash each such bucket for several hours and lower it into salt water so that the insects emerge.

“It is interesting to conduct research on adaptation, to see how insects, for example, withstand such cold conditions, what they eat. We must continue to raise questions: who, where and how long lives. Now I am raising these questions, but developments on specific points are needed in order to draw serious conclusions,” Andrei Przhiboro said.

Dmitry Nikitin began the first excavations of the soil. He was looking for areas of the landscape with characteristic relief and vegetation. “The soil is a mirror of the landscape, which reflects all the biological and geological processes that have taken place over the past few hundred and tens of thousands of years,” Dmitry said.

Dima excavated the earth in four different places, described the surrounding landscape, plant community and soil horizons. From each point he took samples for chemical, physical and microbiological analyses. The most important - the last, research on microbes. More or less comprehensive studies of Novaya Zemlya were carried out in the 1970s, but since that time the climate has changed significantly, which necessarily affected flora, microbes and soil composition. “At least it should have,” Dmitry added. And it is microbes that quickly respond to environmental changes. It takes hundreds of years for a rainforest to become a desert or savannah, and a microbial community can change in a few months. Microbes are bioindicators of the environment, which can be used to determine the level of soil contamination, for example, by heavy metals.

“We will conduct a comprehensive study and try to link several indicators with vegetation, relief elements, thus we will get a global picture of terrestrial ecosystems, at least a small piece of Novaya Zemlya,” Dmitry said.

We walked a few more kilometers and made a halt on a hill. While most of them took out sandwiches, Dima Nikitin began to dig up soil horizons, and Sergey Kholod, Doctor of Biological Sciences and head of the laboratory of geography and cartography of vegetation at the V. L. Komarov Botanical Institute, examined the plants. The vegetation in Russkaya Gavan is richer in species composition, and an interesting discovery for Sergei Serafimovich was the dryad, or partridge grass, as it is popularly called. This grass forms carpets on the western and southwestern slopes. Several plants that Sergei Kholod found are missing from Cape Zhelaniya: the respite and mytnik. Some others still need to be explored and fine-tuned. “A small route for three hours cannot be called a complete survey of the territory, it is only an exploratory preliminary excursion,” Sergey Serafimovich said, “which in general terms made it possible to outline points for future descriptions.” Sergei Kholod plans to return to Russkaya Gavan later to carry out long-term systematic work.

The study of vegetation is interesting in that it makes it possible to reveal the dependence of vegetation on environmental factors - plants are sensitive to changes in the chemical composition of soils. Sergei Serafimovich cited the example of a stemless tarry, which forms pillows necessary for life in dry areas. In Russkaya Gavan, the researcher noticed the death of pillows, which may be a sign of unfavorable conditions, but what these conditions are is a question for further scientific research. Of course, it is impossible to say exactly about climate change in a few decades, it takes a hundred years or more. For example, it can be assumed that the influence of the sea is increasing, that is, more salts are being introduced, and plants cannot adapt to the fact that the soil becomes brackish. As a result, the plant dies.

From time to time we found deer bones. 14-15 years ago, practically on all the islands of the Russian Arctic, a warming occurred in autumn, and black ice formed, due to which the deer could not break through the ice crust and died of starvation. This is also an anomaly that has yet to be studied.

A group led by Nikolai Matushkin, Senior Researcher at the Laboratory of Geodynamics and Paleomagnetism of the Central and Eastern Arctic, Associate Professor at the Department of General and Regional Geology at Novosibirsk State University, took 23 core samples. Not all layers are suitable for drilling, only monolithic ones. In each layer, researchers need to drill 10-12 cores. One point takes from one to two hours. As Nikolai said, he had a record with one colleague - they accelerated to 40 minutes, but the rocks should be easily drilled for this. Rocks contain magnetic minerals in cores; geologists are only interested in iron and titanium oxides. Particles of these minerals, settling, are oriented to the cardinal points. The place where Vasily Bragin, a researcher at Novosibirsk State University, was drilling, is the same sea we are sailing on now, only a few hundred million years ago, when an ancient magnetic field existed on earth. Since then, a piece of continental crust has traveled, tilted, and now the direction laid down hundreds of millions of years ago does not match the modern magnetic field. If geologists manage to build a model of the movement of continents, this will be another argument in the geopolitical discussion about how the shelf works. “The results that we have been receiving since 2003 are already being used by a special UN commission to substantiate Russia's position on shelf expansion. From a scientific point of view, this is interesting, since it is possible to distinguish blocks of the earth's crust, which were considered part of one continent, and we can prove that this is a separate small continent,” Nikolai said.

Andrei Przhiboro said that the first expedition to Russian Harbor to study insects was organized in 1837 by Carl von Behr. Almost every subsequent expedition here ended in the death of people. Russian Harbor for me will remain an unsociable, cold-blooded, merciless place that needs to be visited at least once in a lifetime in order to forget about the omnipotence of man.

Reference

The NArFU project "Arctic floating university" is an innovative project that combines science and education. The NArFU expeditionary project is aimed at obtaining new knowledge about the state and changes in the environment of the Arctic in order to implement recommendations for ensuring the sustainable development of the region, preserving its ecosystem in the face of global climate change. The project organizer is NArFU named after M. V. Lomonosov together with the Federal State Budgetary Institution Northern Administration for Hydrometeorology and Environmental Monitoring. The project is to conduct complex marine scientific and educational expeditions in the Arctic region, with the participation of leading researchers and students of NArFU and with the involvement of specialists from all over the world.

The innovation of the Arctic Floating University project lies in the integration of educational and research processes. NArFU students and graduate students during expeditions are intensively immersed in the scientific and educational process, study fundamental natural sciences and humanitarian disciplines, acquire the skills and abilities to conduct practical work and laboratory research based on modern methods of analyzing statistical, mathematical, cartographic, GIS information, as well as field scientific research in expeditionary conditions.

Expeditions are carried out on the research vessel "Professor Molchanov", owned by the Federal State Budgetary Institution "Northern UGMS". The vessel complies with international environmental and safety standards, allowing it to carry out long-term, expeditionary voyages in the Arctic.

In the evening we will approach the Russian Harbor, from where we will move to Alexandra Land, making a cut. There will be 18 points in total - this is work for more than a day. +28 in Arkhangelsk today. As Alexander Saburov said: of course, it was worth leaving. But it’s not bad here either: it’s quiet, the sea is of a beautiful gray-lead hue, Novaya Zemlya on the starboard side, now a little hidden by fog, now sets off the horizon. Maybe in the waters of the FJL we will meet Sea Spirit - a tourist vessel that sails along the route Svalbard - FJL. Today it is near Alexandra Land. I just don't remember if it goes forward or back to Svalbard.

Unicorn by Ingo

Since 4 p.m. today, many people have been coming to the bridge in the hope of seeing a sea unicorn. It's all Ingo Weiss' fault. He filmed something on TV. And when he began to examine this something, it turned out that it was a narwhal sticking its horn out of the water. Modestly, but it is immediately clear that this is a narwhal. We got it, more precisely, Ingo, at 76 degrees north latitude off the coast of Novaya Zemlya. This is not the most typical narwhal meeting place. And, as far as I remember, last years no one mentioned such facts. The most characteristic meeting place for sea unicorns in the Russian Arctic is the Cambridge Strait off the coast of Franz Josef Land. Although, in principle, the range of narwhals is the entire high Arctic. Most of the population - about 70% - lives in the waters of the Canadian archipelago.

Narwhal

A rare marine mammal that is also called the marine unicorn. The body length of an adult narwhal is up to 4.5 m. The main feature of the narwhal is the tusk or horn, which grows up to 2-3 meters, twisting in a spiral. This is actually the top tooth, usually the left one. The tusk is characteristic only for males.

True, as I came across in the literature, theoretically a horn can also grow in a female if she has hormonal disorders. And in 1 case out of 500 (this is already a question of males), both teeth grow and a bicorn is obtained. Such skulls are in museums.

But why do unicorns always appear when I fall asleep? ..

From the life of ice

Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land, where we are going, are some of the most icy areas in the world, and in Russia, it seems, the most icy. As Alexandra Urazgildeeva said today, glaciers cover 0.5% of the earth's surface, and the Antarctic ice sheet - 8.3%. Frozen water can be in the form of snow, river and lake ice, sea ​​ice, ice sheets, glaciers and ice caps and permafrost.

They say that the Arctic is getting warmer, and you can see it on the sea ice in the Arctic Ocean. Recently, its number has been steadily declining. The record was set in 2012. Nothing like this happens in the southern hemisphere. Antarctica exists as if by itself. Although the ice sheet of the southern mainland seems to be shrinking, it is shrinking in the western part, while in the eastern part, on the contrary, it is growing.

Anna Wesman told how ice forms and melts. The process is long, having several stages, which are called differently and curiously: ice needles, lard, snezhura, sludge. Then comes dark nilas and light nilas. Nilas is the stage of ice formation when it still contains a lot of salt and remains plastic. Young ice is gray at first, then gray-white. With luck, he will mature and become old at first, then perennial. In the Arctic, ice older than 4 years is concentrated in the area of ​​the Canadian Archipelago.

And, in the order of enumeration: there is pancake ice - very beautiful round pieces of ice. In English it's pancake ice. Anna said that once at the conference the term was translated as "pancakes". There is also moored ice and fast ice - this is important for us. If the island has fast ice, then the landing will not take place.

I will not write about the stages of sea ice melting: it is even more difficult than formation.

Soil respiration

The soil group during the voyage will study not just soils, but, as Sergey Goryachkin, head of the department of geography and soil evolution of the Institute of Geography of the Russian Academy of Sciences, said, soil respiration. For the first time on Novaya Zemlya and the FJL islands, the amount of carbon dioxide and methane released from the soil surface will be measured.

Plant roots and microorganisms breathe in the soil. And, like us, they release CO2 into the atmosphere.

Carbon dioxide is a greenhouse gas. Another such gas is methane, CH4. It highlights where there is waterlogging.

Each measurement is accompanied by a measurement of temperature and humidity. For each region, we try to build our own model of how much CO2 and methane is released per year.

Theoretically, if more greenhouse gases are released, the greenhouse effect occurs. But an increase in their number leads to an increase in phytomass, which absorbs CO2. Therefore, the final effects should no longer be calculated by soil experts or geographers, but by other specialists. In general, the topic of climate change is multidisciplinary. Everyone is learning something different. But to create a complete picture and say what awaits us at least in the foreseeable future is the most difficult thing.

Another soil group will take soil samples. It would seem to dig out and all. But it's not that easy. These soils are accustomed to low temperatures, and if they are brought, for example, to "Molchanov", then the result of their study will be distorted.

Therefore, we take and immediately put samples in the freezer. In addition, we have such thermally insulating boxes, and we hope that we will take them to the refrigerator in the laboratory, - Sergey Goryachkin said.

Once, at the Omega base of the Russian Arctic National Park, they tried to grow a lemon. Soil was collected near the cordon, mixed with all sorts of organic residues, algae, to get some kind of soil that we are used to. Lemon, by the way, has grown, but I do not know its further fate. I asked Sergey Viktorovich whether there are any soils at FJL in principle. The question is, of course, an amateurish one. Sergey Viktorovich very patiently explained to me that there are soils wherever there is life.

Where there is life, there is an interaction between the organism and the mineral. This is practically the beginning of the soil. Of course, these are not dachas near Moscow, there is no need to plant potatoes there, but in order to support life, this is quite enough.

Chelyuskins from Eric

Eric Hösli continued his excursion into the history of Russia's exploration of the Arctic. Today we considered the Soviet period: SP-1, the first polar station at the FJL in 1929. By the way, it was organized very urgently: the expedition was assembled in a record short time, because at that time a Norwegian expedition was heading to the FJL. The Soviet one was more fortunate with the ice conditions.

An interesting point: how the development of the Arctic was presented linguistically in the 1930s. A lot of military vocabulary was used: the conquest of the Arctic, the army of polar explorers, to storm the Arctic, the Arctic front, the fight against the elements ... Well, that's how it is with us. The struggle for the harvest, the struggle with the harvest, life is a struggle, otherwise it is not interesting. Indeed, it was a fight and a conquest. It was all too complicated. And how many heads then flew off.

Eric concluded by showing the Chinese army's official world map from 2017, showing the Northern Sea Route and the Northwest Passage. The Chinese are very interested in the Arctic...

Photoshoot

Molchanov will have the first wall newspaper from APU-2017. The idea from Eric Hösley is to take pictures of all the participants and hang out portraits with names and a brief ... how to call it ... description ... In general, who does what on the flight. It was necessary to conduct a photo shoot in the morning, while it was cloudy. I think, along the way, I will re-photograph everyone later for the site already against the backdrop of the sea. Today it was important to hurry up so that no one squints and the wind does not ruffle the hair.

Russkaya Gavan and Shokalsky Glacier

At about 7 pm we approached Russkaya Gavan Bay, one of the largest in Novaya Zemlya. This is how the Norwegians called it, because there were many Russian (Pomeranian) crosses on the shore. In the bay it was possible to hide from the storm. Next, I will use my own blank, which I once made for an exhibition dedicated to the New Earth.

Russian Harbor

The bay is located on the western – Barents Sea – side of Severny Island of Novaya Zemlya between the Litke and Schmidt peninsulas. The bay is open to the north and penetrates deep into the North Island for 10 km. Its space, together with the Goryakov and Savich peninsulas, is divided into a number of separate water areas: bays - Volodkin and Voronin (in the east), Otkupshchikov Bay (in the west). The distance between the entrance capes Makarov (in the west) and Consolation (in the east) is 8 km.

Approximately Russkaya Gavan Bay was mapped in 1871 by the Norwegian industrialist Friedrich Mack. The name was given by the Norwegians in 1869-71. in honor of the Russian navigators who visited these remote places long before the Europeans, the undoubted proof of which are the ancient Pomeranian crosses, later found by the researchers of the Russian Harbor. On the Goryakova Peninsula and Bogaty Island in the 30s of the XX century. the crosses were still preserved.

In 1932, the Russian Harbor polar station was opened. It was located at the base of the Goryakov Peninsula, on the second sea terrace 15 m high. The houses stand on the flat surface of the isthmus between Voronin Bay in the east and Otkupshchikov Bay in the west. To both bays, the terrace on which the station buildings stand has a slope of 5–7°.

Currently, four buildings remain on the territory of the former polar station: the main building of the 1930s. with two laboratories (meteorological and hydrological) and a radio station; residential building of the 1950s; bathhouse and outbuildings. It was at the polar station "Russian Harbor" that the famous film "Seven Courageous" about the real events of 1932-1933 was filmed.

In 1932, a camp was also founded in Russkaya Gavan. It was located 1 km north of the polar station, in the zone of the modern beach on the Goryakova Peninsula, at a height of 1.5 m, at a distance of 3–4 m from the modern coast. In 1957–1959 its premises were used as a base for the Novaya Zemlya glaciological expedition of the Institute of Geography of the USSR Academy of Sciences, which worked under the program of the International Geophysical Year. From the buildings of the camp, only the former warehouse and the lard were preserved. The rest of the buildings were demolished or burned down.

From the south, the Shokalsky glacier descends into Otkupshchikov Bay, the frontal cliff of which is 5 km long. The height of the glacier wall is about 30 m. In a year, the glacier produces, that is, it slides into the sea by about 150 meters.

It is beautiful, of course, this Shokalsky glacier. No matter how much I convinced myself that I had a million photos of him from all sides, I started taking pictures from the porthole. Then look for another hat, not the one in which she was here last year. Found. And at that moment the phone rang! But you can't help but take a picture with your phone. No selfie - so, consider that it was not.

Konstantin Sergeevich began to chase those who were without hats. The rules are strict: those who do not care about their health are deprived of landings. There were precedents.