Who climbed Everest. Everest Conquest (46 photos). the year was the last year in which not a single person summited Everest

Everest is the highest peak on Earth. They tried to reach it more than once, but due to the danger of such an event, it ended, as a rule, with the death of the members of the expedition. Yet there was a man who succeeded. Who was the first to conquer Everest? Whoever he was, he was an amazingly brave and strong man. About him, as well as about the difficulties of climbing Everest, you will learn in the article.

Geographic features

The height of the mountain peak, on the way to which several dozen climbers died, is 8,848 meters. It is located in the Himalayas. The fact that it is very cold in the mountains is known even to a child. Here, the average temperature in January is about -36 °C. Everest itself has the shape of a pyramid, its slopes are quite steep. In the south there is almost no snow and firn (dense, recrystallized perennial snow). The strongest winds blow here. Their speed reaches 200 km / h.

For comparison: the strongest wind in Russia over the past century was recorded on Kharlov Island in the Barents Sea. It was February 8, 1986. The wind speed then was 187 km/h. It is impossible to live in such conditions. In 1998, a terrible hurricane happened in Moscow. Eleven people died. About two hundred were injured. The wind speed that day reached 31 m/s or 3.6 km/h.

Let's compare these figures with those recorded on the highest peak of the Earth - 200 km / h. Is it possible for a person to stay here even for a few minutes? Who was the first to conquer Everest? It was probably an extraordinary person with supernatural powers.

Research

As always, it all started with a theoretical study. Indian topographer and mathematician Radhanat Sikdar established where the highest mountain peak is located. This was in the early fifties. There was a scientist in India, 240 km from the subject of his study. A few years later, the geodetic service gave information about the height of Everest. They weren't exactly accurate. According to the conclusion of Indian scientists, the height was 8,839 meters. Perhaps this will not seem so important to a person who is far from science, but the surveyors argued, clarified, and investigated for a long time. Finally, they called the exact figure - 8,848.13 km.

Extreme tourist route

The first people who conquered Everest proved that it is possible to do it and still stay alive. Before they succeeded was recorded many deaths. "Who will be the first to conquer Everest?" - this question haunted climbers for a long time. Each of them wanted to become a pioneer and go down in history.

The first man conquered Everest over sixty years ago. A lot has changed since then. The mountains, of course, stand in the same place and are just as high. But climbing to the top is still dangerous. However, thanks to deep research, experts now know how to do it with less risk to life.

The question of who first conquered Everest has lost its relevance. Now they go to the Himalayan mountains for thrills. Such an excursion lasts about two months and costs more than 80 thousand dollars. They rise to the top in spring or autumn. At this time of the year, there are no monsoons, that is, steady winds that periodically change their direction.

Tourism infrastructure is developing. In the 21st century, there are more and more people who want to climb the once inaccessible peak. Many hours of traffic jams and conflicts between climbers have even been recorded here (almost like on the highways of megacities). Nevertheless, such a journey remains quite dangerous. The most difficult section is the one that is located near Everest. Its length is 300 meters. The climbers nicknamed the last finish line "the longest mile on Earth".

Much depends on the weather and equipment. Before heading to the mountains, tourists are instructed, trained, and prepared for several weeks. Experts possess all this knowledge thanks to the pioneers. Their invaluable experience allows today thousands of people who want to make a journey that was considered deadly even half a century ago.

First attempts

Before Everest was conquered, about 20 expeditions took place. French climbers have reached Annapurna. But from this mountain range to the highest peak still far. The British managed to achieve a better result a little later - they used oxygen on the way. In the 20s of the last century, more than one climber died here. In 1924, Andrew Irwin and George Mallory made an attempt to summit. The body of the latter was discovered in the late nineties. Perhaps the English climbers managed to reach the summit. At least, this is still being debated to this day.

Among the daredevils there were quite eccentric personalities. So, in 1934, a man without special equipment went to the mountains, believing that supernatural forces would help him achieve his goal. He died, rising to a height of seven kilometers. This man's name was Maurice Wilson. The conquest of the highest mountain peak took place 20 years after his death. And it ended successfully. So, who conquered Everest first in the world?

Edmund Hillary

He did not have supernatural powers, he was an ordinary person. Edmund Hillary was born in 1919. I have been interested in mountaineering since childhood. Edmund made his first ascent at the age of 20. As a child, the future conqueror of Everest was very shy. He read a lot and dreamed of adventure. As a high school student, he began boxing, which gave him some self-confidence. He took up mountain climbing at the age of 16.

In 1951, Hillary participated in the British expedition to Everest. But then the climbers did not reach their goal. After two years, Hillary again took part in the expedition. In the middle of the 20th century, the Chinese closed the road to Everest from Tibet. The climbers set off from Nepal, whose government had nothing against mountain expeditions.

Tenzing Norgay

Of course, it is impossible for one person to conquer a mountain peak. We named Edmund Hillary. But in reality there were two discoverers. Hillary managed to get to Everest together with Tenzing Norgay. It is worth saying that it was a very experienced climber. Perhaps it was thanks to him that Everest was conquered in 1953. Norgay later admitted that from the highest point on earth, an amazing view opens up - beautiful, wild and terrible.

Women's expeditions began to storm Everest in the mid-seventies. And quite successfully. The first woman to summit Everest was Junko Tabei, a Japanese citizen. This was in 1976. Four years later, Wanda Rutkevich from Poland climbed to the top. In 1990 - our compatriot Ekaterina Ivanova.

The Republic of Nepal, known as the highest mountainous country in the world. On the north side, it is bordered by the Great Himalayan Range, famous for several peaks exceeding 8000 meters, including Everest - the most on the planet (8848 meters).

Everest: who conquered the place of the gods

According to popular beliefs, this place was considered the abode of the gods, so it never occurred to anyone to climb there.

The top of the world even had special names: Chomolungma ("Mother - Goddess of the World") - among the Tibetans and Sagarmatha ("Forehead of Heaven") - among the Nepalese. Everest began to be called Everest only from 1856, with which China, India, and also the direct culprit of the renaming - the British aristocrat, geodesic scientist, military man rolled into one - George Everest, who was the first to determine the exact location of the Himalayan peak and its height, did not agree. In the press, there are still disputes from time to time that a mountain located in Asia should not have a European name. Who was the first to conquer Everest - the peak that almost every climber dreams of?

Graceful beauty of the top of the world

The nature of Everest with rocks, snow and eternal ice is threateningly harsh and silently beautiful. Severe frosts almost always prevail here (down to -60 ° C), frequent phenomena are avalanches and snowfalls, and the tops of the mountains are blown from all sides by the worst winds, the speed of which reaches 200 km / h. At an altitude of about 8 thousand meters, the "death zone" begins, called as such for the lack of oxygen (30% of the amount present at sea level).

Risk for what?

Nevertheless, despite such cruel natural conditions, the conquest of Everest has been and is the cherished dream of many climbers in the world. To stand on top for a few minutes to go down in history, to look at the world from a heavenly height - isn't that happiness? For the sake of such an unforgettable moment, climbers are ready to risk their own lives. And they take risks, knowing that they can remain in the untrodden land for ages and eternity. The factors of the possible death of a person who got there are lack of oxygen, frostbite, injuries, heart failure, fatal accidents, and even the indifference of partners.

So, in 1996, a group of climbers from Japan met with three Indian climbers who were in a semi-conscious state. They died because the Japanese did not help the "competitors", indifferently passing by. In 2006, 42 climbers, along with the television people of the Discovery channel, indifferently walked past an Englishman who was slowly dying of hypothermia, and also tried to interview him and take photographs. As a result, the daredevil, who ventured to conquer Everest alone, died from frostbite and oxygen starvation. One of the Russian climbers Alexander Abramov explains such actions of his colleagues as follows: “At an altitude of more than 8000 meters, a person striving to conquer the summit is completely occupied with himself and does not have extra strength to help in such outrageous conditions.”

George Mallory's attempt: successful or not?

So after all, who was the first to conquer Everest? The discovery of George Everest, who had never conquered this mountain, served as an impetus to the unbridled desire of many climbers to reach the top of the world, which was the first (in 1921) decided by George Mallory, a compatriot of Everest.

Unfortunately, his attempt was unsuccessful: heavy snowfalls, strong winds and lack of experience in climbing to such a height stopped the British climber. However, the inaccessible peak attracted Mallory, and he made two more unsuccessful ascents (in 1922 and 1924). During the last expedition and his teammate Andrew Irwin disappeared without a trace. One of the members of the expedition, Noel Odell, was the last to see them through a gap in the clouds rising to the top. Only after 75 years, the remains of Mallory were discovered by an American search expedition at an altitude of 8155 meters. Judging by their location, the climbers fell into the abyss. Also in scientific circles, when studying all the same remains and their location, there was an assumption that George Mallory was the first person to conquer Everest. Andrew Irwin's body was never found.

The years 1924-1938 were marked by the organization of a number of expeditions, however, unsuccessful ones. After them, Everest was forgotten for a while, because the Second World War began.

pioneers

Who conquered Everest first? In 1952, the Swiss decided to storm the unconquerable peak, but the maximum height they climbed stopped at around 8500 meters, 348 meters did not succumb to climbers due to bad weather conditions.

If we assume that Mallory could not reach the top of the highest mountain in the world, then the question of who was the first to conquer Everest can be safely answered - New Zealander Edmund Hillary in 1953, and then not by himself, but with an assistant - Sherpa Norgay Tenzing .

By the way, Sherpas (from Tibetan, “sher” - east, “pa” - people) are the same people, without whom, perhaps, hardly anyone would have been able to reach such a coveted peak. They are a mountain people who settled in Nepal over 500 years ago. It was the Sherpas who most easily managed to climb Everest, since this mountain is their homeland, where every path is familiar from childhood.

Sherpas are reliable assistants on the way to the top

Sherpas are very good-natured people, unable to offend anyone. For them, killing an ordinary mosquito or a field mouse is considered a terrible sin, which needs to be very strongly repented of. The Sherpas have their own language, but nowadays almost all of them speak English. This is a great merit of Edmund Hillary - the first conqueror of Everest. As a sign of gratitude for the invaluable help, he built a school in one of the main villages at his own expense.

Although with all the penetration into the life of the Sherpas of civilization, their way of life in many respects remains patriarchal. Traditional settlements are stone two-story houses, on the first floor of which livestock is usually kept: yaks, sheep, goats, and the family itself, as a rule, is located on the second floor; there is also a kitchen, bedrooms, a common room. Minimum furniture. Thanks to pioneer climbers, electricity has recently appeared; They still have no gas or some kind of central heating. As fuel for cooking, they use yak droppings, which are previously collected and dried on stones.

The inaccessible Mount Everest ... Who was the first to conquer this distant peak: or George Mallory? Scientists are still looking for an answer to this day, as well as an answer to the question of what year Everest was conquered: in 1924 or in 1953.

Everest climb records

Everest succumbed to more than one person, even records were set for a temporary ascent to the top. For example, in 2004, Pemba Dorj Sherpa reached it from the base camp in 10 hours and 46 minutes, while most climbers take up to several days to complete the same operation. The Frenchman Jean-Marc Boivin was the fastest to descend the mountain in 1988, however, he made the jump on a steam plane.

Women who have conquered Everest are in no way inferior to men, also stubbornly and persistently overcoming every meter of the ascent to the top. The first representative of the weak half of humanity in 1975 was the Japanese Junko Tabei, 10 days later - Phantog, a Tibetan climber.

Who was the first to conquer Everest among the elderly? The oldest conqueror of the summit is 76-year-old Nepalese Min Bahadur Sherkhan, and the youngest is 13-year-old American Jordan Romero. The tenacity of another young conqueror of the "top of the world" is of interest - 15-year-old Sherpa Temba Tseri, whose first attempt was unsuccessful due to lack of strength and frostbite on both hands. Upon his return, Tembe had 5 fingers amputated, which did not stop him, he conquered Everest on his second ascent.

Among the disabled, there is also the first person to conquer Everest. This is Mark Inglis, who climbed to the top of the world in 2006 with prosthetic legs.

The hero even joked that, unlike other climbers, he would not get frostbite on his toes. Moreover, he froze his legs earlier, when trying to climb the highest peak in New Zealand - Cook's Peak, after which they were amputated to him.

Apparently, Everest has some magical power if hundreds of climbers rush to it. The one who conquered it once returned more than once, trying to do it again.

Alluring peak - Everest

Who was the first to conquer Everest? Why are people so drawn to this place? There are quite a few reasons to explain this. Tickling nerves, lack of thrills, the desire to test yourself, the dullness of everyday life ....

Texas millionaire Dick Bass - the man who conquered Everest. He, not being a professional climber, was not going to spend years on careful preparation for dangerous climb and decided to conquer the peak of the world at once, as they say: here and now. Bass was ready to pay any amount of money to anyone who would contribute to the realization of his seemingly unrealistic dream.

Dick Bass was still able to conquer the summit of Everest, and the assembled team turned out to be assistants on the expedition, which provided the millionaire with comfort when climbing up; people carried all the cargo, tents, water, food. So to speak, the ascent was of the all-inclusive type, and this was the beginning of commercial travel to the top.

Since then, since 1985, anyone can conquer the peak, having enough Money. To date, the cost of one such ascent varies from 40 to 85 thousand dollars, depending on the side of the ascent to the mountain. If the journey comes from Nepal, then it is more expensive, because a special permission from the king is required, which costs 10 thousand dollars. The rest of the amount is paid for the organization of the expedition.

There was even a wedding...

In 2005, Mona Mule and Pem Giorgi got married on top of the world. Climbing up, the newlyweds took off for a few minutes wearing traditional colored garlands around their necks. Then Pem anointed the forehead of his bride with scarlet powder, which symbolized marriage. The newlyweds kept their act a secret from everyone: parents, acquaintances, expedition partners, because they were not sure of the successful outcome of the planned event.

So how many people have summited Everest? Surprisingly, today there are more than 4,000 people. And the most optimal period for climbing in gentle weather conditions is spring and autumn. True, such an idyll lasts a short time - only a few weeks, which climbers try to use as fruitfully as possible.

According to statistics, every tenth of those who storm Everest die, and most of the accidents occur during the descent, when there is practically no strength left. Theoretically, you can conquer Everest in a few days. In practice, gradualness and the optimal combination of ascents and halts are required.

Everest - the highest mountain in the world

Everest (or, as it is called in Nepal, Chomolungma) rises to 8848.43 meters above sea level. Climbing Everest is a real dream for every climber, but, no doubt, also a very dangerous adventure, since a huge number of people died trying to conquer this peak. The highest point on our planet is known today to every schoolchild. But the history of the discovery of Everest and the fate of many brave people who tried to conquer it often remain a mystery to the general public.

infographics

The shocking truth

Resembling in shape a pyramid that has risen many kilometers above sea level due to the movement of lithospheric plates, Everest rises above Asia right on the border of China and Nepal. This peak is rightfully considered one of the most magnificent in beauty, but at the same time, tragic and dangerous places in the world. Its rocky silhouette invariably attracts numerous brave and courageous conquerors who try to reach the summit at the cost of great efforts, and sometimes even at the cost of their own lives. Unfortunately, many climbers have remained forever among the snows and rocky gorges. Over 235 climbers and local residents died while trying to conquer the highest peak of the globe (although the exact number of deaths remains unknown today, because not all of them officially registered their ascent). The difficulty lies not only in the increased atmospheric pressure and rarefied air, which cannot be breathed for a long time, but also in the danger of the route itself. Nevertheless, despite all these difficulties, many people continue to risk their lives in order to spend a few minutes on top of the world. There is something in it that irresistibly attracts brave climbers ...

How much does it cost to climb Everest?

This question is very popular today. Everyone knows that high-altitude expeditions require not only serious physical and tactical training of the participants, but also considerable investments. The average price is about $30,000 if you go by yourself or with your organized and independent group. Travel companies offer their own expeditions, and the price for their services is about $60,000. The price of a VIP level expedition, which includes permanent Internet access and telephone connection, is often higher than $90,000. In general, it all depends on the guide and the quantity and quality of services included in the package. However, when choosing an instructor and a company, it is important to consider not only the price and image of the company. It is always best to study this issue on your own and very carefully. In particular, it will not be out of place to pay attention to whether the package includes the cost of the flight and the services of Sherpas. The fact is that sometimes you have to pay for the participation of local “helpers” on the spot when you are already at the base camp, therefore, in order to avoid unexpected surprises, it is always better to study the details in advance.

Why so expensive?

The government of Nepal imposes a mandatory fee on all foreigners who wish to climb Mount Everest. Depending on the size of the group and the time period, the fee can vary from $11,000 to $25,000.

Many readers will probably be indignant: “Where are these prices from??!” But, on the other hand, judge for yourself: even with such fees on the slopes - tens of tons of garbage; when climbing Everest, more than 200 people died ... Imagine what would happen if this fee was not charged - the number of climbers, of course, would increase dramatically, and the peak would begin to look like something terrible.

Another important point is the correct selection of the necessary equipment, which also costs a lot of money. The cost of guides, instructors and sherpas often depends on the size of the group, so prices change from year to year.

Everest Facts

1. Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain chain, is 29,035 feet (8848 meters) high.
2. A sedentary volcano in the Hawaiian Islands, Mauna Kea ranks first in the ranking of the highest mountains in the world, not counting sea level.
3. Everest is more than 60 million years old, it was formed due to pushes of the Indian tectonic plate in the direction of the Asian. Due to seismic activity in the region, Everest is about a quarter inch (0.25") taller every year.
4. The peak is located right on the border line of Nepal to the south and China, also known as Tibet, to the north.
5. Chomolungma (translated from Tibetan) literally means "holy mother of the universe."
6. To keep warm, climbers are encouraged to use oxygen at the summit. As for food, it is good to eat a lot of rice and noodles even before the ascent, since you will need a serious supply of energy for such an expedition. On average, climbers burn over 10,000 calories daily, and this number doubles while climbing to the top; throughout the expedition, its participants lose from 10 to 20 pounds of weight.
7. In the entire history of attempts to conquer the summit, it is officially known that 282 people (including 169 Western climbers and 113 Sherpas) died on Everest from 1924 to August 2015. If we talk about the causes of death, then 102 climbers were injured while trying to climb without the use of additional oxygen. Most of the bodies to this day remain in the snow and gorges, although Chinese officials reported that many bodies were removed. Snowfalls and rockfalls are the most common cause of death, followed by avalanches in second place and altitude sickness in third place.
8. The youngest person ever to reach the summit is an American high school student named Jordan Romero. He made his ascent at the age of 13, on May 23, 2010 (he climbed the peak from the north side).
9. 14 climbers managed to cross from one side of the peak to the other.
10. Wind speeds at the summit can reach 200 miles per hour.
11. On average, it takes about 40 days to complete the ascent. The fact is that the human body needs some time to get used to being at such an altitude above sea level and acclimatize immediately before climbing.
12. The first climbers who managed to climb the peak of Everest without the use of additional oxygen in cylinders were Reinold Messner and Peter Hubler (Italy) back in 1978. Later, 193 climbers who followed suit also managed to reach the summit without resorting to additional oxygen (this is 2.7% of all ascents to the peak). There is 66% less oxygen in every breath at the top of Everest than in a breath taken at sea level.
13. To date, there have been about 7,000 ascents of the peak of Everest, more than 4,000 people have participated in all known routes.
14. The oldest climber who managed to conquer the mountain was Miura Yuchiro (Japan), who made the ascent at the age of 80 on May 23, 2013.
15. There are 18 different official climbing routes to the summit of Everest.
16. The first woman to summit Everest was Japanese climber Janko Tabei (1975).
17. In order not to fall off rocks and glaciers, climbers use nylon ropes with a diameter of 10 millimeters. Special metal spikes (“cats”) are put on the soles of the boots to prevent slipping. In addition, ice axes are used, which can stop a possible fall on a rocky and icy surface. In terms of clothing, climbers opt for thick suites that are filled with goose feathers.
18. Sherpas are the collective name for people who live in western Nepal. Initially, several centuries ago, they migrated from Tibet. Today, they help climbers prepare for the ascent by helping carry food, tents, and other supplies to intermediate camps located above the base camp.
19. Climbers begin using oxygen tanks at 7,925 m (26,000 ft). but in this way only 915 m (3000 ft) of difference is achieved in how they feel. In principle, at an altitude of 8230 m (27,000 ft) a person will feel like at 7315 m (24,000 ft) above sea level, which, in fact, will not make a significant difference in the well-being of climbers.
20. Peak temperatures can drop as low as -62C (80F below zero).

Story

Everest appeared on the earth's surface about 60 million years ago. The mountain has a rather long history of "the first climbers", starting with an unsuccessful attempt, which was made back in 1921 by the British expedition of George Mallory and Guy Bullock. Much later, in 1953, the highest peak of the Earth was nevertheless conquered by a brave bunch of Italian climbers Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. The history of ascents and new achievements continues to this day. But the highest peak in the world is not only a vantage point or a serious challenge for climbers, but also home to mountaineers, the Sherpas, who have lived there for over 500 years. This small nation is the best guides and porters for tourists and professionals who decide to defy fate and climb the highest and most difficult peak of our planet to climb.

Where is Everest located?

Everest is not only the highest mountain, it is also the highest point located on the border of two countries. The mountain is located between the territories of China and Nepal, but its peak is in China, or rather, in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Everest is part of the Himalayas and is only one of the nine peaks of this mountain range. Interestingly, the Himalayas are made up of the thirty-nine highest high peaks in the world, so Everest has many younger "brothers". Together they form a fence between the plateaus of the Tibetan and Indian subcontinental plates.

The entire mountain system is located in South Asia and passes through Pakistan, Bhutan, Tibet, India and Nepal. This was the reason that Everest has several names. In Tibet it is called "Chomolungma", the Chinese version of the name is "Shèngmǔ Fēng". The locals in Darjeeling call it "Deodungha" which translates to "Holy Mountain". For many years it was believed that the highest peak of the world is in the Andes, and only in 1852, a mathematician from India was able to open the world to really the highest mountain.

How did he get his name?

The highest mountain was discovered by George Everest, who served as the Indian General Secretary, in 1841. Since then, the official name that was given to the highest peak of the Earth has come from the name of the discoverer. Prior to this in different countries the peak was called differently, based on local languages ​​and dialects. But since the highest point of the planet should have a single and understandable name for everyone, the name of the one who officially discovered it became recognized at the international level.

What country is Everest in?

At various points in its history, Everest has been considered part of both China and Nepal. After the annexation in May 1959, relations between Nepal and China became absolutely friendly, and the fact that the border between the countries is at its peak highest mountain world, is a symbolic confirmation of this. Therefore, theoretically, the peak that is closest to space does not belong to one particular country, but is the common property of Nepal and China. Every tourist who decides to at least look at Everest from the outside, not to mention climbing to the top, can choose at his own discretion which side is more convenient to do it. But it is fair to say that the view from Nepal is much more beautiful, and climbing is an order of magnitude easier.

What is the height of Everest?

Imagine that you live in a world where there is no Mount Everest, it has not yet been discovered, and at school the teacher tells you that the highest mountain is the one called Kanchenjunga, or Dhaulagiri, for example. Even in the 19th century, many were convinced that the highest point on our planet is anything but Everest. Only in 1852 was it confirmed that Everest is the highest point on our planet. The height of the mountain is 8848 meters above sea level and increases by 4 millimeters annually due to plate movement. In addition, earthquakes in Nepal can move Everest and even change its height. So, modern scientists continue to argue that none of the measurements of the height of Everest, either from the Chinese or from the Nepalese side, is correct. Chomolungma continues to grow. The continental plates do not stand still, they are constantly pushing Everest higher and higher.

Curiously, the exact height of the mountain is still a matter of dispute. Back in 1856, when British explorers first measured the height of the peak with a theodolite, it was recorded as 8,840 m (or 22,002 feet). Currently, the official height of Everest is 8.848 m (29.029 ft). To imagine how high Everest is, it is enough to understand that its highest point is located almost at the level of a fighter plane flight. Therefore, it is not at all surprising that the slopes of this mountain are not inhabited by animals and birds due to high pressure and rarefied air. However, Everest is home to one rare species of spider that hides in the crevices of the mountains. This insect feeds on other frozen insects that get to the top with winds and snow masses.

Neighborhood

The Everest massif consists of several individual peaks such as Changse at 7,580m (24,870ft), Nuptse at 7,855m (58,772ft) and Lhotse at 8,516m or 27,940ft. At the time of the discovery of these peaks, it was very difficult to measure the height of a mountain peak with accuracy. At that time, special devices called theodolites were used to measure height, the weight of which was more than 500 kg (1.100 pounds), and the forces of 10-15 people were required to move such a device. Several attempts were made to measure the exact height of Mount Everest, and only in 1949, shortly before the first ascent, was it finally possible to obtain accurate data.

The nearest place where people live is Rongbuk, a Buddhist temple that was founded back in 1902. It was reconstructed not so long ago after complete destruction in the 70s of the last century, during the civil war. Currently, this place becomes the last living quarters on the path of climbers to the top of the world. In Rongbuk, you can stay in a small hotel and even dine in a tiny restaurant.

About height

For almost three hundred years, the highest known point on Earth was Chimborazo, a volcano in the Andes. Its height is "only" 6.267 meters. In the 19th century, this version was destroyed, as the new champion became known to the world - the peak of Nanda Devi in ​​India with a height of 7.816 meters. It may seem ridiculous, but today Nanda Devi only ranks 23rd in the list of the highest mountains in the world. But there is a reason that the listed peaks were indeed the highest points of the world known at that time: after all, Nepal, which is called the roof of the world for a reason, was closed to everyone for a long time.

Everest is officially one of the most polluted mountains in the world. due to the lack of infrastructure and the presence of a constant influx of tourists. Numerous groups leave behind a huge amount of garbage, ranging from simple food bags to oxygen tanks and old equipment, which are stored and accumulated for decades on the slopes of this mountain, considered sacred to local residents.

Scientists are constantly finding the remains of marine life that were fossilized in the structure of rocks 450 million years ago, at a time when the surface of Everest was not yet a peak or mountain, but remained part of the seabed. The Himalayas formed only 60 million years ago. The record holders for visiting the peak of Everest are two Sherpas: Apa Sherpa and Tashi Purba, who managed to climb the peak 21 times, having the opportunity to admire the alpine landscape of the Himalayan mountains from the highest point.

Mortality

Unfortunately, Mount Everest turned out to be a very difficult place to climb and is rightfully considered one of the most dangerous peaks on Earth. The danger lies in record low temperatures and air with a low oxygen content, frequent landslides and avalanches that took many lives of local residents and climbers who decided to overcome this height. The greatest tragedy in the history of Everest occurred in 2014 when a huge avalanche killed 16 local Nepalese guides. It happened near one of the base camps. The second largest was the tragedy of 1996, when 15 climbers did not return from the ascent.

These people died for various reasons, some due to the use of inadequate equipment, others due to lack of oxygen in the tanks or unexpected changes in weather conditions that made it impossible to return to the base camp. The third in terms of the number of victims was the unsuccessful expedition of 2011, when 11 people remained forever in the snows of the Himalayan mountains. All of them are buried in the snow and ice of Everest. Avalanches and rockfalls are the most common causes of death on the slopes of Everest.

Everest base camps

For those who decide to climb Everest, there are, as mentioned earlier, two options - start climbing from China or follow the Nepalese route. In order to get used to atmospheric pressure and acclimatize at altitude, two main base camps are equipped. In any of them, each tourist will be able to spend the necessary amount of time for the body to get used to the new conditions, since acclimatization in this case will help prevent altitude sickness. Both camps have doctors who can advise climbers and assess the health of each before climbing. Staying for some time at the base camp helps to avoid health problems associated with pressure changes.

The southern camp is located on the Nepal side, and the Northern camp is on the Tibetan (Chinese) side of Everest. Even though the northern camp can be reached even by car during the summer days, the camp on the south side is becoming more and more popular. And, of course, all the inhabitants of the surrounding villages, who were previously engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry, are now fully focused on providing visitors with everything they need. They help in transporting things and supplies to the upper intermediate checkpoints, in cooking, and offer various products. In addition to the main intermediate camps on the way to Everest, there are several others located both before and after the main two. They are intermediate stations on the way to conquer the top of the world.

The supply of food and equipment to the southern base camp is carried out by Sherpa porters, since transport links in this region are not possible. Food, medicine and everything needed is delivered with the help of yaks, local beasts of burden.

ascent

If you think that everyone can climb Everest, you just have to really want to, you are very mistaken. Firstly, it is very expensive, about $60,000. Climbing the highest mountain in the world is not just a fun adventure. It is important to understand that this is not an ordinary cozy tourism, but a challenge and the risk of mortal danger. Every year, several tourists die in an attempt to conquer this rocky peak: someone falls into an abyss or a gap between glaciers, someone cannot withstand high temperatures, and someone falls ill with altitude sickness.

Naturally, for such a difficult test, you will need serious preparation and a huge amount of special equipment: shoes, clothes, tools and gadgets. A large group of experts and assistants are also required for the proper organization of the trip and many years of experience in climbing other peaks. But if we talk about the process itself, then it is, of course, unusually exciting. Regardless of which route you choose, it is recommended that you travel with a Sherpa companion. Today, the region is home to approximately 3,000 Sherpas, all of whom are top-notch guides, helpers, and porters, as well as mountain climbers. In short, the Sherpas are a nation of highlanders. If you've seen the famous photograph of the first human ascent of Everest, you'll understand how amazing, indescribable with words, the feeling at the top can be. As Tenzing Norgay admitted, "I wanted to jump, dance, these were the best feelings in my life, because I stood above the whole world."

The most popular season to climb Everest is spring. Autumn expeditions are less popular. By far the most popular way to climb Everest is through a guided expedition. This ensures that there is a professional with the group who knows the most reliable route to the top. In addition, you can rely on his knowledge and experience even in the most unpredictable situations, he is a reliable support and support for the group. The guide will be able to explain to the participants everything they need to know before starting the climb, help to choose the necessary equipment and check the physical condition, as well as the state of health of the participants, in advance.

Plan

The very first step in climbing Everest is to begin proper preparation, including getting serious experience climbing other peaks. These are very important requirements, since such an expedition is quite risky and dangerous and requires certain skills. It starts in one of the base camps (on the southern or northern slope), which is selected depending on the route and climbing plan. So, to get to the base camp, located at an altitude of about 5,000 m (16,000 feet) above sea level, participants will need about a week. Here they can talk to experienced guides, check their physical condition and get some rest before climbing Everest. Then, for an additional fee, climbers can resort to the help of Sherpa mountaineers, who will help bring the necessary equipment, food and oxygen cylinders to intermediate camps.

How long does it take to climb Everest?

Of course, climbing to the top of the world does not mean walking along picturesque snow-covered slopes. For less trained climbers and for those who have at least a minimal risk of developing any disease, the acclimatization period at medium altitude (in the base camp at an altitude of 5100 meters above sea level) can in some cases reach 30-40 days. For a whole month you will be surrounded by Sherpas and your companions until your body gets used to the pressure of the atmosphere and the lack of oxygen. Only then can you continue climbing. On average, when it comes to tourist expeditions, the duration of the entire ascent (from the moment you arrive in Kathmandu to being at the highest point on the globe) will be about 60 days. When everything is prepared, it will take about 7 days to climb from the base camp to the summit. After that, another approximately 5 days will be spent on the descent to the base camp.

First person to summit Everest

Although Edmund Hillary was the first person to set foot on the top of the world, many attempts to climb Everest were made long before him. Back in the twenties, a special expedition of the newly created Everest Committee developed the most optimal ascent routes. It is not surprising that the members of this expedition were the first to set foot on the summit. sacred mountain”, what Everest was for the locals. And yet, two completely different people, Sir Edmund Hillary and Nepalese climber Tenzing Norgay, jointly made the first successful ascent to the summit from the south side and finally managed to find themselves where no man had ever gone before.

In 1953, when this outstanding event finally happened, China closed Everest to any visits, and the world community allowed no more than one expedition per year. In conditions of low temperatures, constantly tormented by strong gusts of wind, Tenzing and Hillary, despite the need to stay in one place for several days in a row, were still able to conquer the highest point on the planet. Edmund Hillary dedicated his achievement to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, and it was the best gift in honor of a significant event in the UK. Although Hillary and Tenzing spent only 15 minutes on the mountaintop, those 15 minutes today are comparable only to the first steps on the moon.

The youngest person to ever reach the summit is an American eighth grader from California. He was only 13 years old on the day of the ascent. A resident of Nepal, a 15-year-old girl named Min Kipa Shira, became the second in the ranking of the youngest climbers who managed to conquer Everest. Her ascent was crowned with success in 2003. The oldest man to summit Everest was 80-year-old Miura Yuchiro from Japan, and the oldest woman was Tamae Watanabe from Japan, who climbed at the age of 73.

Video

Factrum wants to tell you some stories about conquering Everest. Warning: the text is not for the impressionable!

1. 40 passers-by and one Discovery TV crew

For the first time, the general public learned about the "terrible" morals that prevail on the approaches to Everest in May 2006, when the circumstances of the death of David Sharp, a British climber who tried to conquer the summit alone, became known. He never made it to the top, dying from hypothermia and oxygen starvation, but it is noteworthy that a total of 40 people passed by the slowly freezing mathematics teacher, and no one helped him. Among those who passed by was a film crew from the Discovery TV channel, whose journalists interviewed the dying Sharpe, left him oxygen and moved on.

The general public was indignant at the "immoral" act of the "passers", but the truth is that no one could help Sharpe at such a height, even with all the desire. It was simply not humanly possible.

2. "Green shoes"

It is not known when the concept of "green shoes" entered the everyday life of the conquerors of Everest and became folklore. But it is known for certain that they belong to the Indian climber Tsevang Palzhor, one of the victims of the "bloody May" of 1996 - a total of 15 people died on Everest that month. This is the largest number of victims in one season in the history of conquering the highest peak on the planet. For years, the green boots of Paljoros have been a guide for those who climb the mountain.

In May 1996, several commercial expeditions climbed Everest at once - two American, one Japanese, one Indian and one Taiwanese. There is still debate about who is to blame for the fact that most of their participants never returned. Several films have been made based on the events of that May, and the surviving participants have written several books. Someone blames the weather, someone blames the guides who started descending before their clients, someone else blames the expeditions that did not help those in distress or even hindered them.

3. Spouses Arsentiev

In May 1998, Francis and Sergei Arsentiev attempted to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen. The idea is daring, but quite real - without additional equipment (at least 10–12 kg), you can climb and descend faster, but the risk of complete exhaustion from lack of oxygen is very high. If during the ascent or descent something goes wrong and the climbers stay in the "death zone" longer than the physical capabilities of the body allow, they will inevitably die.

The couple spent five days in the base camp at an altitude of 8200 meters, twice their attempts to climb ended in failure, time passed, and strength left with it. Finally, on May 22, they went out for the third time and ... conquered the summit.

However, during the descent, the couple lost sight of each other and Sergei was forced to go down alone. Frances lost too much strength and just fell, unable to continue on her way. A few days later, an Uzbek group passed by freezing Francis without helping her. But its participants told Sergei that they saw his wife and he, taking oxygen cylinders, went in search of ... and died. His body was found much later.

The last people Francis saw, and who, accordingly, saw her alive, were British climbers Ian Woodall and Cathy O'Dowd, who spent several hours with the dying woman. According to them, she kept repeating “do not leave me”, but the British could no longer help her and left, leaving her to die alone.

4. Perhaps the first true conquerors of Everest

It is not for nothing that those who seek to conquer Everest say that it is not enough to climb - until you descend, you cannot consider the conquered peak. If only because there will be no one to tell that you really were there. Such is the sad fate of climbers George Mallory and Andrew Irwin, who attempted to conquer Mount Everest in 1924. Whether they reached the top or not is unknown.

In 1933, at an altitude of 8460 m, the hatchet of one of the climbers was found. In 1991, at an altitude of 8480 m, an oxygen cylinder was found, manufactured in 1924 (and, accordingly, belonged to either Irwin or Mallory). And finally, in 1999, Mallory's body was found - at an altitude of 8200 m. Neither a camera nor a photograph of his wife was found with him. The latter fact makes researchers believe that either Mallory, or both climbers, nevertheless reached the summit, since Mallory, before going to Everest, told his daughter that he would definitely leave a photo of his wife at the top.

5. Everest does not forgive "not like everyone else"

Everest severely punishes those who try to act "not like everyone else." It is not for nothing that most successful ascents are made either in May or in September-October - the rest of the year the weather on the mountain is not conducive to ascents and descents. Too cold (before May), weather conditions change too fast, risk of avalanches too high (summer).

Bulgarian Hristo Prodanov decided to prove that climbing Everest in April is quite possible - to do what no one has done before him. He was a very experienced climber who had scaled many iconic peaks.

In April 1984, Christo undertook the ascent of Everest - alone and without oxygen. He successfully summited, becoming both the first Bulgarian to set foot on the planet's highest mountain and the first person to do so in April. However, on the way back, he fell into a severe snowstorm and froze to death.

6. The creepiest corpse on Everest

Hannelore Schmatz became the first woman and the first German citizen to die on the approach to the summit of Everest. It happened in October 1979. However, she is known not only for this reason and not because she died of exhaustion on the descent, having successfully conquered Everest, but because for another good 20 years her body frightened those who tried to conquer Everest. She, blackened in the cold, froze in a sitting position in the direction of climbing Everest, her eyes wide open and her hair blowing in the wind. They tried to lower her body from the top, but several expeditions failed, and the participants of one of them died themselves.

In the end, the mountain took pity and during one particularly strong storm at the beginning of the "zero" Hannelore's body was thrown into the abyss.

7. Keep Anniversaries Alive

Sherp Lobsang Shering, nephew of Tenzing Norgay, the first official climber of Everest, decided in May 1993 to make the ascent in memory of what his uncle had done. Fortunately, the 40th anniversary of the conquest of the mountain was just approaching. However, Everest does not really like "anniversaries" - Schering successfully climbed the highest mountain on the planet, but died during the descent, when he already believed that he was safe.

8. You can climb Everest as much as you want, but one day he will take you.

Babu Chiri Sherpa is a Sherpa legend, a guide who has been to Everest ten times. The man who spent 21 hours at the top of the mountain without oxygen, the man who climbed to the top in 16 hours and 56 minutes, which is still a record. The 11th expedition ended tragically for him. At an altitude of 6500 meters, "childish" for this guide, he photographed the mountains, accidentally miscalculated his movements, stumbled and fell into a crevice, in which he crashed to death.

9. He died, but someone survived

Brazilian Vitor Negrete died in May 2006 during the descent after conquering Everest. This was Negrete's second ascent, and this time he planned to be the first Brazilian to summit the mountain without oxygen. Climbing, he made a cache in which he left food and oxygen, which he could use on the descent. However, on the way back, after a successful mission, he found that his hiding place had been devastated and all supplies had disappeared. Negreta did not have enough strength to reach the base camp and he died not far from it. Who took the supplies and the life of the Brazilian remained unclear.

A crucible for climbers

Climbing Mount Everest has been one of the toughest challenges for climbers since 1852, when research showed it was highest point earth's surface. Only 101 years later, on May 29, 1953 at 11:30 a.m., a man climbed the top of the world, Mount Everest, for the first time. “I looked at Tenzing and, despite the fact that his face was hidden by a knitted helmet, goggles and an oxygen mask, completely covered with icicles, I saw that he was looking around with an infectious smile.”

These lines were written by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary at the moment when he and the Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the conquerors of the highest peak in the world, rising to 8848 meters above sea level. The newspapers reported that climbers climbed to a height of 8840 meters - according to measurements taken by a British expedition in the middle of the 19th century. It is now generally accepted that the height of Everest corresponds to the measurements taken by the Indian government expedition in 1954, a year after the historic ascent.

Hillary and Norgay

Hillary and Norgay spent 15 minutes full of jubilation on top of the world, and each left a gift to Everest as a sign of gratitude: Norgay buried sweets and cookies as an offering to the deities of the mountain, Hillary left a cross. A quarter of an hour at the summit was the culmination of many months of intense and meticulous planning, as well as the combined efforts of a team of 10 climbers and 5 Sherpa guides. Three days earlier, an attempt by two other members of the expedition had been unsuccessful, and Hillary and Norgay returned victorious and said that "the symmetrical, beautiful cone covered with snow" differs markedly from the gloomy rocky ridge seen from below, from the foot. Just a week later, on June 7, Hillary and the head of the expedition, English Colonel John Hunt, were knighted, and Norgay was awarded the British George Cross.

The news of the success of the expedition reached Britain on June 1, the eve of the coronation of Elizabeth II, and the next day forced the description of the coronation attire to the back of the News Chronicle, on the front page of which there was a headline: "Crown of Glory: Everest Conquered."

Tragedy on Everest

By the way, Edmund Hillary was a professional beekeeper. In 1958 he traveled to the South Pole, in 1985 to the North. In 1990, his son Peter climbed to the top of Everest, and 18 years later, the first conqueror of Everest, Edmund Hilary, died (1919-2008).

The conquest of Everest was accompanied by a large number of previous tragedies: although today more than 1000 climbers have already conquered the highest mountain in the world, about 200 people died in different years when trying to climb.

So, let's trace the entire chronology of events related to the conquest of Everest.

Timeline 1921-1975

1921 During the first reconnaissance expedition (British) sent to Everest, Dr. Kellas and an unnamed Sherpa died at the foot of the mountain and were the first to be included in the list of Everest victims.

1922 During the second, also British expedition to Everest, seven Sherpas die in an avalanche below the North Col (pass) and become the first people to die while climbing Everest.

1924 Mallory and Irwin, part of the third British expedition to Everest, rise above 8534 m, but they fail to descend. (The question remains unclear when exactly they died - during the ascent or on the way back, therefore, having managed to visit the top first).

May 29, 1953 Edmund Hillary ( New Zealand) and Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) become the first people to summit Everest.

1963 James Whittaker becomes the first American to reach the top of Mt.

1975, May. Junko Tabei (Japan) becomes the first woman to climb Everest. September. Dougal Huston (Scotland) and Doug Skop (England) are the first British to conquer Everest.

Chronology 1978 - present day

1978 Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeper (Austria) are the first to reach the summit without oxygen.

1980 Reinhold Messner (Italy) makes the first solo ascent.

1984 Tim McCartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer become the first Australians to summit, and at the same time the first to climb the North Face without oxygen.

Dmitry Demyanov, Samogo.Net (