Climbing the Dzhigit Peak. Peak Dzhigit What is the uniqueness of this route

One of the highest peaks ridge Terskey-Alatau - Peak Dzhigit (5170 meters). A tall, sharp, proud Dzhigit stands as an impregnable guard on the north side. Of course, anyone who gets into the mountains of the Central Tien Shan, seeing the Dzhigit peak, is unlikely to remain indifferent. The peak is beautiful with that harsh attractive beauty that cannot leave the climber's heart calm and which gives rise in the depths of a person's soul, that cherished desire: to set foot on highest point this greatness. The team of the club "Your Way" gathers tourists who are not indifferent to the mountains: those who are ready to challenge and climb the harsh peak, those who are important to experience the spirit of freedom and test the strength of their character, to temper the will for future exploits in life!

The program includes:

Consultations on equipment and preparation for climbing;

Individual approach to training before climbing;

Safe and optimal choice of acclimatization and climbing route to the five-thousander Tan Shan;

Team spirit for victory in every step towards the goal;

Relaxation and rest on the shore of Issyk-Kul after climbing

Description by day:

Day 1. Meeting the group at the airport in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol. Acquaintance with the guide, team, briefing. In the evening - walks around Karakol. Karakol - former Przhevalsk, where the museum-estate of the famous ethnographer is located, as well as majestic mountains frame this place from all sides.

Day 2. Breakfast. Transfer of the group to a clearing in the Karakol gorge. Acclimatization radial hike to the lake Alakel (3600 m above sea level). Overnight in a clearing in tents.

Day 3. Promotion to the Ontor glacier. Smooth acclimatization in the mountains. Gorgeous views of rugged mountains. Overnight in a tent.

Day 4. Radial exit to the Ontor pass (1B, 3900 meters).

Day 5The beginning of the technical part of the ascent. Early exit. Ascent to the parking lot "Teapot" on the firn ridge. Overnight at an altitude of 4200 m.

Climbing the ridge to the "Teapot"

Day 6. Ascent to the shoulder of Dzhigit peak. Overnight at the pass.

Day 7Early rise. Summit assault. Descent to the parking lot "Teapot" or to the glacier.

Day 8. Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 9. Trek from the Ontor glacier under the Archalytor Severny pass.

Day 10Assault on the Archalytor Northern pass (2A, 4200 meters). Descent to the valley of the Jety-Oguz river.

Day 11. Exit along the Dzhetyoguz river. Visiting the red rocks. Bathing in hot springs. Overnight at the base in Karakol.

Day 12. Transfer to the shore of Issyk-Kul. Swimming in the lake, relaxing and celebrating a great route. Hooray!

Day 13 Departure to Bishkek. Flight home.

Depending on weather conditions and the condition of the group, changes in the route are possible.

Included in cost:

• transfer Bishkek - Karakol;
• accommodation at the base in Karakol;
• transfer of the group by all-terrain vehicles to the mountains;
• meals throughout the route;
• visiting hot springs;
• accompanying the group with an experienced guide;
• provision of public equipment (mountaineering - ropes, drills; tourist - tents, burners, bowlers);
• all-terrain transport - exit from the active part of the route;
• accommodation at Issyk-Kul lake;
• bathhouse at the end of the route;
• transfer to the airport at the end of the route;
• medical insurance for the group;

The price does not include:

• flight to Bishkek;
• personal climbing equipment - can be rented at the club's warehouse (subject to availability);
• personal first aid kit,
• additional accommodation in Issyk-Kul (if desired, it can be extended for any period)

Important details:

• Day trips - from 5 to 15 km.
• The composition of the group - from 4 people and 1 - 4 guides.
• All participants in the ascent must have the appropriate category of training.
• We will take turns in the camp kitchen. Everyone will be able to try to get firewood, light a fire and cook delicious food on a fire. During the ascent cooking on the burner.
• Provision is made for the delivery of food, public equipment and a part of personal climbing equipment on horseback. If you do not collect unnecessary things, then there will be no problem with the weight of backpacks. We will definitely give advice on what should be in the backpack, and what you can not take.
• If necessary, equipment (backpack, rug, sleeping bag, etc.) can be taken in rent (if available in the warehouse of the club).
  Group medical insurance is issued, before going on the route - registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations.
• On request - for the duration of the climbing program for the family, we can organize sightseeing tour near Lake Issyk-Kul.
• We will be able to book you a place on the trip only with a 30% prepayment. In case of cancellation of the trip no later than a month before the start of the tour, the prepayment is not refundable, but remains on your "account" to pay for future hikes and ascents during the year.

We moved to Karakol. There we planned to climb the Dzhigit Peak. This is already quite adult mountaineering - climbing in a pair on the north face of the summit, above 5000 meters, along a rarely visited route in alpine style. I think it's a great combination.

Peak Dzhigit, 5170 meters high, lies in the main watershed ridge Terskey Ala-Tau to the east of the peaks of Karakol, Slonenok, Festivalnaya. The second highest peak in the region after Karakol.
Many difficult routes have been laid to the top, ranging from 4A (through the Epyura pass) to 6B (along the one and a half kilometer northern wall "head-on") with a category of difficulty.

We arrived at the base camp in Karakol. It is located on a large green meadow surrounded by fir trees. It is conducive to relaxation and leisurely walks along the rivers. But, as usual, a bad head does not give rest to the legs. We began to fuss in search of a horse and driver who would agree to throw us under Dzhigit. It was not possible to do this on the spur of the moment, so we decided to spend one night in the base camp. In some ways, it is good - we got another day of rest after Ala-Archa.

The rest of the day I walked around the clearing, got acquainted with those around me and found out if anyone had gone to Dzhigit. The Slesov route, which we planned to go, was not walked by anyone, but the neighbors did. We were given general advice on the wall and even more general advice on the descent.

In the morning a shepherd came with a horse, we loaded our belongings on this beast [horse] and went up. About 6 hours we walked to the end of the trail along the green lawns. The trail ends at the confluence of the rivers Keltor and the river flowing out from under the Dzhigit glacier. Keltor can safely wade on the spill. From there, another 2 hours under the wall.

We set up a tent on the side moraine of the glacier and began to sort food and equipment.

- How much food do we take?
- Well ... we will try to climb with one overnight stay, but take it for two.

I thoughtfully looked from the wall to the rock shoes and back. Common sense won, and the rock shoes remained below. As well as most of the food.

We finished the preparations, packed and hid everything unnecessary, and stared at the wall for several hours. I visualized the passage of all the sections that I could reach with my eyes. I figured out how to pass the icefall, where to climb at the same time, where to hang the railing. Where to sleep and where not to climb.

In the morning they did not go out at night. In any case, our overnight stay was planned, so we didn’t want to leave at 3 o’clock, and then, in the dark, look for a passage in the icefall. We left at 4. In about 30 minutes we crossed the glacier, got in touch and left. We passed the cracks, crept under the overhanging seracs and ran into the wall, which we had chosen yesterday. An oblique sloping shelf crosses the overhanging serac and goes into the circus under the wall. Vertical ice, and sometimes no less vertical snow; 40 meters of such joy and we are on the glacier under the wall. We are separated from the rocks by a gentle ascent to the bergschrund, an overhanging berg wall and about 200 meters of ice from gentle to quite normal at 80°.

I chose a place where the wall of the bergschrund was not covered with snow, stuck one tool, picked up my legs, stuck the second, picked up my legs ... then something went wrong, and the upper tool crashed into my forehead with a characteristic knock and stars. Rubbed the bruised place, looked at the glove. She has blood on her. Well, great start.

Max sealed my eyebrow and (for some reason) part of my eye with a plaster, and I began to work on. I no longer climbed onto the overhanging ice, but went to dig a vertical trench. He twisted the drill, clung to it with a hook belly, dug out half a meter of snow, twisted the next drill, and so on until he got over the cornice in the upper part.

There they contacted and climbed at the same time to the entrance to a steep chute filled with ice. Next came the usual work with the railing. I climbed strictly adhering to the line drawn in different reports, although common sense said that the first two pitches of mixed can be bypassed by good ice 20 meters to the right. But the route line.

During the next transition from the ice to the overhanging rocky step, the instrument broke off the lens and we all flew down together. I and a couple of tools hung on the storm a few meters below, and the ice flew further. So, we must get together, otherwise it will not end well, - I thought. Gathered and climbed to the IT.

Then everything went pretty smoothly - AID, alternating with climbs on the ice. The weather soon deteriorated. It snowed, the wind blew. In good weather (like the day before), a little sun appears on the wall in the late afternoon, and you can comfortably work until sunset. But it wasn't like that for us. By 18 o'clock we were in the middle of the first rocky belt. Cereals and snow were constantly falling, and all this was flavored by the wind.

- Max, let's sleep on this wonderful shelf.

An inclined shelf 1 × 1.5 meters can hardly be called comfortable, but Max was already all the same. He seemed to be able to sleep standing up, just leaning against a rock.

The night passed in an attempt to assume a comfortable position.

It snowed all the next day. We slowly climbed up our buttress. I climbed almost all the time on AID. No skyhooks or axes, that is, no creepy ito-shnoy magic. By 19 o'clock we reached the ice scallop under the second steep part of the buttress. The wind was out of whack. Visibility dropped, his face was covered with a layer of wet snow, an ice crust grew on his beard. Let's spend the night!

I cut down part of the ridge, it turned out to be a wonderful half-recumbent (for little Max) overnight stay. I sat up all night, but it was quite comfortable.

On the third day the weather was good. Until the evening. The lower steep part again had to be climbed onto the aid. On one rope there was even a semblance of a bolt path. Almost all ears are bolted to normal size, that is, a quickdraw carabiner climbs into them without any problems. There were several narrow ones, under the "Irbis", they just left bookmarks there. And above the most pleasant began - climbing. In one of the reports there was such a phrase "the terrain is steep, but comfortable." And there is. Comfortable and cool. Excellent monolithic cracks and ice puddles made it possible to climb quickly and reliably.

I have opened a state of consciousness when it seems that you are in the right flow, you are doing everything consciously and correctly. And everything around responds the same, and goes as it should.

In the west, covered by clouds, the sun was slowly sinking into the molten gold of Issyk-Kul. I climbed at cruising speed on a mixture of ice and rocks. Max tried to quickly jumarit. And then the storm began again. It seemed that she had been accumulating strength somewhere in a nearby gorge all day, and now she pounced on us and began to caress in the streams of snow.

The ridge seemed to be quite close. I hung at the station under the eaves and clung to the rock. Dust avalanches continuously passed through the backpack. There was a layer of snow on my face. A partner appeared in the darkness.

- Max, sleeping overnight on the crest, warm and girls! A little patience!

From the station climbed to the left-up. There was no snow cornice. After about 15 meters, I thought that it would be nice to turn the drill, otherwise, if I suddenly slip, nothing good will shine for us. I tried to get to the bottom of the ice, but in vain: it was somewhere very deep. Okay, let's go like this.

Climbed over the edge of the ridge. There is ice. I made a station, and thinking that my partner would not get out soon, he began to cut down the ridge a little to the side.

Made a shelf in 40 minutes. By that time, Max had climbed up, marked the unnecessary part of the rope, removed part of the iron and got ready to pitch the tent. Single-layer tents in such situations are simply salvation. If we had to put up the inner part first, then pull the awning, then, I am almost sure, in such a wind something would fly away from us. I got into the tent around 11 pm. Lying down at night, without boots and helmets. Almost like a resort.

The traverse to the top is not at all pedestrian: the cornices and steep slopes are not conducive to walking. They did not go out to the summit dome, it painfully resembles a cornice. But a little lower we found an empty summit tour. We took pictures and went downstairs.

Visibility was about 20 meters, so we walked almost to the touch. At some point, everything was inflated, and for a minute the circus opened below us.

I remembered that the ridge and couloir were mentioned in the description of the descent. Therefore, as soon as we reached the couloir, moving away from the ridge in the right direction, we immediately turned into it. Again, according to the description, trigger 4A is practically pedestrian.

We hung rope after rope, and otherwise we didn’t want to go down. When a rocky step appeared ahead instead of an ice slope, we were completely convinced that we had missed somewhere. There was no desire to rake back, so I took out a rock iron and prepared to fill the stations. But it worked out, only two had to be organized on the rock. After the steps, we hung 8 more ropes, and ended up on a flat glacier. The wind died down, the clouds dispersed. The trigger comb brazenly loomed half a kilometer away from us. In order not to repeat our mistake, do not turn into the first couloir. And also carefully consider the mountain in Google Maps, it is well drawn there.

We crossed the glacier (in some places there were closed cracks), put everything in backpacks and went down to our camp through a small pass On-Tor.

In general, it turned out like this: three nights on the mountain, two on the wall, one on the ridge. A2 level IT, no more difficult. The steepest ice is 80°. The hardest climb I've ever climbed was 6a.

For me, this ascent was the embodiment of another youthful dream. Once in the collections of Soviet mountaineering, I read with bated breath about the ascents of Zamin-Karor, Svobodnaya Korea and Dzhigit. You need to re-read the collections, there are a lot of good ideas.
Many thanks to the store vertical.kz for the provided equipment

To our beloved Alpine camp Tuyuk-Su for the opportunity to lead such a windy lifestyle

Climbing passport

• District, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.44а
• Peak name, route name: Dzhigit in the center of the northern wall
• Difficulty category: 6A
• Route type: combined
• Route elevation difference: 1200 meters
• Route length: 1400 meters
• Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°
• Average steepness of the entire route: 60°
• Route used:
  hooks - 90 pieces
  embedded elements - 100 pieces
  ice screws - 18 pieces
  stationary bolts - 15 pieces, including for ATO - 5 pieces
• Hooks left on the route - no
• Team running hours: 40, 3½ days
• Head: Belotserkovsky Kirill Alexandrovich, CCM
• Participant: Ten Maxim Valentinovich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Coach: Skopin Artyom Alekseevich, MS
• Exit to the route: July 28, 2014 at 4 am
• Exit to the summit: July 31, 2014 at 12 noon
• Return to the base camp: July 31, 2014 at 18:00
• Organization: FAiS RK

Group photo peaks

Characteristics of the area and the climbing object

The Terskey Ala-Too ridge is located in the north-east of Kyrgyzstan and limits the Issyk-Kul basin from the south. The average height of the ridge is 4500 meters above sea level, and the maximum height is 5281 meters (Karakol peak). The length of the ridge in the latitudinal direction is about 400 kilometers. The Terskey Ala-Too ridge ranks second (after the Meridian ridge) in terms of glaciation in the Tien Shan. The glaciation area here is 1081 square kilometers. Massive glaciation and the proximity of a large lake are the causes of unstable weather in the area.

Dzhigit Peak (5170 meters)- the second highest peak of the region - located in the upper reaches of the Kultor River. The easiest route is along the western ridge (S. Silchenko, 1966) 4A. He is also a descender.
Of greatest interest are the northern and northwestern walls. And if routes of the fifth category pass along the northwestern wall, then the “sixes” mostly pass along the northern wall: D. Sharashhanidze in 1976 (first place in the USSR championship in the technical class), V. Vakurina in 1983, I. Slesov in 1975 ( first place in the USSR championship in the technical class), A. Ryabukhin 1965. On all routes, rocks alternate with ice. The rocks are mostly monolithic.

Cracks are often filled with snow or ice. There are no convenient shelves on the wall, so you have to prepare places for overnight stays: cut down ice, lay stones, etc. Comfortable overnight stays are only on the ridge.

I. Slesov's route has a combined character. We often had to switch from climbing on rocks to climbing on ice and then to a combination of both in different proportions. The first tried to make the most of free climbing on ice tools. There was almost no lasagna in the usual sense of the word. The constant use of tools on the rocks was dictated by both the features of the relief (rocks covered with ice) and the bad weather that accompanied us every day.

The first one worked with a lightweight backpack, the second one moved on jumars and carried bivouac equipment.

Route map

Technical description route

Approach from the place of overnight stay along the open glacier in the direction of the right part of the icefall in the lower part of the wall. The passage in the icefall, after a long observation, was chosen in the evening, as it presents a certain difficulty. Contacted before the start of a gentle ice slope. We tried to pass the icefall as quickly as possible, along the way there were fresh pieces of ice.

• R1-R2 Access to the ice slope under the bergschrund. First, along steep ice covered with a thick layer of loose snow, then traverse to the left along the ice shelf.
• R2-R3 Approach on plain ice under the bergschrund.
• R3-R4 Overcoming the bergschrund. An overhanging ice wall, in some places covered with a thick layer of loose snow. We had to dig a trench in the snow, using ice screws to organize ATO.
• R4-R5 Movement to the right-up in the direction of a steep ice couloir.
• R5-R6 Along alternating walls and shelves at an internal corner with ice smudges. According to him, complex drytooling / ITO up.
• R6-R7 Right-up along the walls-shelves filled with ice, towards the inner corner. To the left of it, judging by the bolts, you can spend the night.
• R7-R8 Difficult climbing on an inside corner.
• R8-R9 Climbing / Aiding up the corner. The weather began to deteriorate: it snowed, the wind blew.
• R9-R10 To the top, the corner is twisted. Basically IT. Station on a local bolt, interlocked with something of his own.
• R10-R11 Along the ice shelf and the rocky inner corner to the top of the spall. There is a shelf 1 × 1½ meters. Uncomfortable sitting overnight.
• R11-R12 Descent to the ice ledge, traverse to the right. Then move up the inner corner with ice. Cold. Basically IT.
• R12-R13 Alternation of walls-shelves with ice. The climb is relatively easy.
• R13-R14 Confident AID up the wall to the right of the eaves.
• R14-R15 Up until flattening out. It is snowing.
• R15-R16 Movement up moderately difficult rocks filled with ice.
• R16-R17 The same.
• R17-R18 Through the rocky step to the ice ridge.
• R18-R19 On a simple ice slope up to the rocks. By this time visibility had dropped to 10 meters. Strong wind, heavy snowfall. Everything is ready for an overnight stay.
  They cut out a shelf in the ice (by bending the blade on one of the tools along the way). Semi-recumbent overnight stay.
• R19-R20 Upward movement along the most logical terrain.
• R20-R21 Slightly to the left-up to the overhanging wall with a bolt path. After it, traverse to the right, then up the steep inner corner.
• R21-R22 Left-up along the steep wall to the destroyed (but soldered by ice) rocks. Perhaps this section can be bypassed if you leave the station to the right, and not to the left.
• R22-R23 Climbing steep, sometimes overhanging rock feathers frozen into ice. Despite the steepness, climbing is not too difficult. Drytooling.
• R23-R24 On gentle rocks to the right-up. On the way I met an old bolter. The station is just below the rocky ridge. The weather began to deteriorate.
• R24-R25 Along the rocky ridge and further along the rocks filled with ice.
• R25-R26 On rocks covered with ice and snow, up under a small ledge. Very strong wind, snowfall. Visibility is severely limited. Dust avalanches constantly pass through the cornice.
• R26-R27 From under the eaves to the left-up along the rocky inner corner and further along the steep snow-ice slope to the ridge. On the slope, we never managed to get to the bottom of normal ice, so it was not possible to organize insurance. A small shelf was cut down on the ridge and a tent was set up. Comfortable overnight stay.
• R27-R28 In conditions of poor visibility 200 meters along a snow-ice ridge with eaves to a short rocky step.
• R28-R29 Descent 5 meters.
• R29-R30 250 meters along the ridge with huge cornices to the top dome. They did not go to the highest point, since it is most likely a cornice.

tactical actions commands

July 28th At 4 o'clock in the morning we went to the ascent. We passed the icefall and began to work on the route, which is steep cliffs interspersed with patches of ice. The whole second half of the day it was snowing, accompanied by wind. By 18 o'clock the bad weather intensified, and we decided to get up for the night. We spent the night sitting in a tent on a small shelf (1×11/2 meters).

July 29 it snowed all day, but despite this, by 19:00 we reached the snow-ice ridge before the start of the second steep rocky part. To organize an overnight stay, a part of the ice ridge had to be cut down. Slept half-lying.
On July 30, the weather was satisfactory for most of the day. Thanks to this and the fact that the terrain, despite the preserved steepness, has become easier, we managed to reach the ridge. We got to the ridge in deep twilight and in conditions of very strong bad weather. They cut down part of the ridge, set up a tent.

July 31 reached the summit along a ridge with large snow cornices. We took pictures and started descending. After 5 hours we were on the glacier. Through the On-Tor pass we reached our camp under the wall, where we camped for the night.

Technical photo of the route

Wrote a report on ours. One with numbers, diagrams and photographs. So that it does not gather dust in the archives of any commissions, I will post it here, maybe someone will be interested.

Climbing passport

1. District, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.44а
2. Peak name, route name: Dzhigit in the center of the northern wall
3. Difficulty category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation difference: 1200 meters
   Route length: 1400 meters
   Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°
   Average steepness of the entire route: 60°
6. Route used:
   • hooks - 90 pieces
   • embedded elements - 100 pieces
   • ice screws - 18 pieces
   • stationary bolts - 15 pieces, including for ATO - 5 pieces
   • Hooks left on the route - no
7. Team running hours: 40, 3½ days
8. Head: Belotserkovsky Kirill Alexandrovich, CCM
   Participant: Ten Maxim Valentinovich, Candidate Master of Sports
9. Coach: Skopin Artyom Alekseevich, MS
10. Exit to the route: July 28, 2014 at 4 am
    Exit to the summit: July 31, 2014 at 12 noon
    Return to the base camp: July 31, 2014 at 18:00
11. Organization: FAiS RK

General photo of the peak

Characteristics of the area and the climbing object

Ridge Terskey Ala-Too is located in the north-east of Kyrgyzstan and limits the Issyk-Kul basin from the south. The average height of the ridge is 4500 meters above sea level, and the maximum height is 5281 meters (Peak Karakolsky). The length of the ridge in the latitudinal direction is about 400 kilometers. The Terskey Ala-Too ridge ranks second (after the Meridian ridge) in terms of glaciation in the Tien Shan. The glaciation area here is 1081 square kilometers. Massive glaciation and the proximity of a large lake are the causes of unstable weather in the area.

Dzhigit Peak (5170 meters)- the second highest peak of the region - located in the upper reaches of the Kultor River. The easiest route is along the western ridge (S. Silchenko, 1966) 4A. He is also a descender.
Of greatest interest are the northern and northwestern walls. And if routes of the fifth category pass along the northwestern wall, then “sixes” mainly pass along the northern wall: D. Sharashanidze 1976 V. Vakurina 1983, I. Slesova 1975(first place in the USSR championship in the technical class), A. Ryabukhin 1965. On all routes, rocks alternate with ice. The rocks are mostly monolithic.

Cracks are often filled with snow or ice. There are no convenient shelves on the wall, so you have to prepare places for overnight stays: cut down ice, lay stones, etc. Comfortable overnight stays are only on the ridge.

Route I. Slesova has a combined character. We often had to switch from climbing on rocks to climbing on ice and then to a combination of both in different proportions. The first tried to make the most of free climbing on ice tools. There was almost no lasagna in the usual sense of the word. The constant use of tools on the rocks was dictated by both the features of the relief (rocks covered with ice) and the bad weather that accompanied us every day.

The first one worked with a lightweight backpack, the second one moved on jumars and carried bivouac equipment.

Technical description of the route

Approach from the place of overnight stay along the open glacier in the direction of the right part of the icefall in the lower part of the wall. The passage in the icefall, after a long observation, was chosen in the evening, as it presents a certain difficulty. Contacted before the start of a gentle ice slope. We tried to pass the icefall as quickly as possible, along the way there were fresh pieces of ice.


R1-R2 Access to the ice slope under the bergschrund. First, along steep ice covered with a thick layer of loose snow, then traverse to the left along the ice shelf.
R2-R3 Approach on plain ice under the bergschrund.
R3-R4 Overcoming the bergschrund. An overhanging ice wall, in some places covered with a thick layer of loose snow. We had to dig a trench in the snow, using ice screws to organize ATO.
R4-R5 Movement to the right-up in the direction of a steep ice couloir.
R5-R6 Along alternating walls and shelves at an internal corner with ice smudges. According to him, complex drytooling / ITO up.
R6-R7 Right-up along the walls-shelves filled with ice, towards the inner corner. To the left of it, judging by the bolts, you can spend the night.
R7-R8 Difficult climbing on an inside corner.
R8-R9 Climbing / Aiding up the corner. The weather began to deteriorate: it snowed, the wind blew.
R9-R10 To the top, the corner is twisted. Basically IT. Station on a local bolt, interlocked with something of his own.
R10-R11 Along the ice shelf and the rocky inner corner to the top of the spall. There is a shelf 1 × 1½ meters. Uncomfortable sitting overnight.
R11-R12 Descent to the ice ledge, traverse to the right. Then move up the inner corner with ice. Cold. Basically IT.
R12-R13 Alternation of walls-shelves with ice. The climb is relatively easy.
R13-R14 Confident AID up the wall to the right of the eaves.
R14-R15 Up until flattening out. It is snowing.
R15-R16 Movement up moderately difficult rocks filled with ice.
R16-R17 The same.
R17-R18 Through the rocky step to the ice ridge.
R18-R19 On a simple ice slope up to the rocks. By this time visibility had dropped to 10 meters. Strong wind, heavy snowfall. Everything is ready for an overnight stay.
They cut out a shelf in the ice (by bending the blade on one of the tools along the way). Semi-recumbent overnight stay.
R19-R20 Upward movement along the most logical terrain.
R20-R21 Slightly to the left-up to the overhanging wall with a bolt path. After it, traverse to the right, then up the steep inner corner.
R21-R22 Left-up along the steep wall to the destroyed (but soldered by ice) rocks. Perhaps this section can be bypassed if you leave the station to the right, and not to the left.
R22-R23 Climbing steep, sometimes overhanging rock feathers frozen into ice. Despite the steepness, climbing is not too difficult. Drytooling.
R23-R24 On gentle rocks to the right-up. On the way I met an old bolter. The station is just below the rocky ridge. The weather began to deteriorate.
R24-R25 Along the rocky ridge and further along the rocks filled with ice.
R25-R26 On rocks covered with ice and snow, up under a small ledge. Very strong wind, snowfall. Visibility is severely limited. Dust avalanches constantly pass through the cornice.
R26-R27 From under the eaves to the left-up along the rocky inner corner and further along the steep snow-ice slope to the ridge. On the slope, we never managed to get to the bottom of normal ice, so it was not possible to organize insurance. A small shelf was cut down on the ridge and a tent was set up. Comfortable overnight stay.
R27-R28 In conditions of poor visibility 200 meters along a snow-ice ridge with eaves to a short rocky step.
R28-R29 Descent 5 meters.
R29-R30 250 meters along the ridge with huge cornices to the top dome. They did not go to the highest point, since it is most likely a cornice.

Team tactical actions

July 28th At 4 o'clock in the morning we went to the ascent. We passed the icefall and began to work on the route, which is steep cliffs interspersed with patches of ice. The whole second half of the day it was snowing, accompanied by wind. By 18 o'clock the bad weather intensified, and we decided to get up for the night. We spent the night sitting in a tent on a small ledge (1×1½ meters).

July 29 it snowed all day, but despite this, by 19:00 we reached the snow-ice ridge before the start of the second steep rocky part. To organize an overnight stay, a part of the ice ridge had to be cut down. Slept half-lying.

July 30 the weather was satisfactory for most of the day. Thanks to this and the fact that the terrain, despite the preserved steepness, has become easier, we managed to reach the ridge. We got to the ridge in deep twilight and in conditions of very strong bad weather. They cut down part of the ridge, set up a tent.

July 31 reached the summit along a ridge with large snow cornices. We took pictures and started descending. After 5 hours we were on the glacier. Through the On-Tor pass we reached our camp under the wall, where we camped for the night.

To the website

Terskey Alla-Too

Peak Karakolsky and Peak Dzhigit. Brief overview of the area.
How to get there. Who will help.

The material was compiled by climbers from Kyrgyzstan at the request website

Ridge Terskey Alla-Too located in the Central Tien Shan, on the territory of modern Kyrgyzstan. The ridge limits Lake Issyk-Kul from the south and extends from Semenov Peak (Sary-Dzhaz Ridge) to the Chu River for almost 400 km. From a climbing point of view, the central part of Alla-Too, between the Tuz-Ashuu and Dzhuku passes, is of great interest. Here are the routes of almost all categories from 1 to 6a (on our famous Dzhigit). Most of the routes are of the 4th and 5th category of difficulty, there are both combined, ice-snow and rock routes. Almost all peaks are over 4000 meters high, but there are also three five-thousanders (Big Ak-su peak, Karakolsky peak and Dzhigit peak).

From the city of Karakol to base camp drive 25 km. The area of ​​the Ayu-Tor gorge is accessible from the base camp, the approach to the parking lot takes 3-4 hours. From the parking lots under the routes approaches 1-2 hours. In this gorge, the routes are mainly 2, 3, 4 grades, but there are also four rocky fives. All routes in the area run in one day. In the remaining two areas - under the top of Dzhigit (5170m) and the peak of Karakol (5281m), the approach to the parking takes 5 - 6 hours, from the stops to the route - 1 hour. In both these areas, routes are mainly 4-5 k.tr. On Dzhigit peak there are routes 6a k.tr., for the passage of which gold medals were received at the USSR Championship. These were the teams of I. Slesov (1975), D. Sharashenidze (1976), V. Vakurin (1983). In addition, almost all routes to Karakol Peak were completed at the Union Championship in the intramural, technical class. In general, in the Terskey Alla-Too ridge there are several hundred routes entered into the classifier to 141 peaks of the region.

KSP no, we have organized our rescue team, but it has not yet gained its full strength. Communication - walkie-talkies are better to take with you. The best time for climbing in our area is July, August, early September. July, August - the weather is usually good in the morning, it rains in the evening, the weather is good again at night. September - the weather is almost clear, but a little colder.

Who drives through us, then problems with local practically none, because we ourselves are local.

Concerning products- if someone specifically will call on us, we will first give a detailed list of products that we have on the market, and prices for them, as well as exchange rates.
For example:
loaf of bread - 10 cents,
1kg of sugar - 55-60 cents,
1 kg of meat - 1 dollar 30 cents,
1 liter of gasoline - 35-40 cents,
1 dollar equal to 50 Kyrgyz soms.

Politics- everyone is quite loyal to visiting tourists. By the way, recently the official language in Kyrgyzstan is Russian.

Transport:
bus Bishkek - Karakol (state) 3-4 US$ per person;
minibus 4-5 US$ per person;
taxi 6-7 US$ per person.

We can provide:
shift shift Gaz-66, 16 seats;
UAZ 469, 6 seats;
Volkswagen Jetta, 4 passenger seats.
Walkie-talkies: 3 pieces "Angara", 2 pieces - "Tais" (portables).
For those who wish, there are porters - in any quantity.
Paperwork, OViR marks, border passes, permits to the Alps and tourist zones - through us without problems, in a short time.

We are travel agency "Alp-Tour-Issyk-Kul" Khanin Igor Viktorovich

You can find us:
Kyrgyz Republic, Issyk-Kul region, Karakol city, Brick factory, 61-1.
Tel. 3922 2-05-48, tel-fax 3922 5-01-63.
Travel agency "Alp-Tour-Issyk-Kul",
director - Gorbacheva Larisa Viktorovna, Khanin Igor Viktorovich.

Dzhigit Peak

The second highest peak in the Issyk-Kul region (5170 m.). The peak is located next to the highest peak of the Issyk-Kul region, Karakol peak. Route difficulty category 4A. The breathtaking view and the opening panorama of the eternal ice attract tourists from all over the world. A guide with extensive climbing experience and knowledge of the area will give basic lessons and rules of behavior on the slope!

Day 1

Meeting at the Manas airport. Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation in guest house, dinner.

Day 2

Meeting at the guest house, after a hearty breakfast. (1800 m.) Transfer by car to the Karakol gorge, before the start walking route. The beginning of the approach under the Dzhigit peak from a height of 2,250 m to the Chon Tash transshipment camp. (2 600 m.). Lunch on the road. Overnight in tents. Dinner.

Day 3

Early breakfast. Trek under the On-Tor glacier (3150 m.). Lunch on the road. Setting up the camp. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 4

Breakfast. Climbing the On-Tor glacier and setting up a base camp at an altitude of 4250 m at the Kettle site. Lunch on the road. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 5

Acclimatization day. Cost The guide will teach you the rules of behavior on the slope. Lunch. It is necessary to prepare an itinerary and hold a briefing. Practical and theoretical classes. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 6

Early breakfast, early exit. Climbing Djigit Peak (5170 m)! Lunch on the road. After conquering the summit, we will descend to the base camp "Teapot" 4250 m. Dinner.

Day 7

Breakfast. Descent along the Karakol gorge to Chon-Tash camp 2600 m. Lunch on the way. Setting up the camp. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 8

Breakfast. Return to Karakol. Lunch. After a 4-hour descent, a transport will be waiting for us, which will take us back to the guest house. Dinner. Overnight in a guest house.

Day 9

Spare day in case of bad weather.

Day 10

Breakfast. Transfer to Manas airport, completion of the program.

Required personal equipment:

It is necessary to bring warm clothes, a change of clothes, hiking and spare shoes, a rain jacket, sunglasses, sunscreen. If you have a specific illness, you should carry your own first aid kit with the necessary medicines.

Mountain boots, crampons, harness, 5 carabiners, ice axe, helmet.

Bivy gear:

Clothing based on temperature from -5 to +20