Journey through the Urals by car. Sights of the Urals - Uraloved

The article provides an overview of 1-4-week hikes in the Urals and Siberia, gives recommendations on choosing trips, tells how to use sources when developing routes on your own, provides a “hit parade” and route threads. Some of the described hikes are in.

Once, on a hike along the Katunsky ridge to (Altai), I met a group of schoolchildren from Kurgan and got into a conversation with their leader. We asked each other where we had been. It turned out that we have approximately the same list of completed trips. This led me to the idea of ​​compiling my "hit parade" of travel routes in the Urals and Siberia, to bring places that you definitely need to visit. And although the routes that have not yet been passed will last for ten years, I already have something to recommend from the twenty expeditions I have passed.

Why the Urals and Siberia? Let's imagine that you are a tourist with the experience of 2-4 day trips with an overnight trip in the classic sense - you like to travel with a backpack, live in a tent, cook food on a fire. You already understand that such a vacation brings the greatest satisfaction. The Earth is full of beautiful places where you can take a bus or fly by helicopter, climb to the top by cable car. And the views will be no less beautiful than if you go up there on foot. Why is there no such satisfaction? Because people have been traveling on foot or on horseback for thousands of years. And we still have the need to sometimes be in the role of a “primitive man”, a pioneer, relying only on the strength of our muscles and true friends. It is the Urals and Siberia with their wild boundless expanses that can give us these feelings. Is there some more beautiful mountains- Caucasus and Tien Shan. But, traveling through them, we understand that we are guests there. That these are the lands of other peoples and you need to know the specifics of relationships with local residents. Traveling in the Urals and Siberia, we get acquainted with ours. Does it make sense to “visit” when we are not yet fully familiar with “our apartment”? That is why in the summer I travel around the Urals, Siberia, and around Lake Baikal. These mountains are what I want to talk about.

There are three incorrect stereotypes about Siberia among the inhabitants of European Russia, and among the Urals too.
1) "Siberia is an endless plain swamp." But if we look at the map, we will see that at least a quarter of the area is occupied by mountains.
2) “There are a lot of blood-sucking insects in summer.” But only two of my 20 trips required a mosquito net. We were severely seized in July in the Northern Urals. After my lecture on Siberian old-timer dialects, the participants from the tent in the morning asked how it was outside - vile or mosquito? In Altai, there are no mosquitoes at all (the larvae do not mature due to sub-zero night temperatures), and there are flies only on horseback routes.
3) "There may not be summer in the Urals and Siberia." As in a joke: a Uralian or a Siberian who came to the Black Sea is asked: “Why are you so white? Didn't you have summer?" - "Why, it was, only I worked that day." Summer in Siberia is short, but real: sunny and hot. If you go on a long enough hike (for three weeks), then you will surely find it. I had only one completely rainy three-week trip - to the Celestial Teeth. The summer travel season lasts from mid-June to the end of August (in the Subpolar Urals and in the north of Baikal - from mid-July, south of Baikal the best time is August, before that it is rainy, monsoon winds blow from Lake Baikal).

In this article, I will focus exclusively on summer hiking and mountain travel, although some hikes are best done in winter. For example, it is easier to get to Munka-Sardyk (Eastern Sayan) in winter on skis along frozen rivers than in summer to wade through windbreak and elm. And Baikal is interesting winter travel on skates.


Travel types. First, let's define the terms used. Traveling in mountainous terrain on foot unless climbing and ice climbing equipment is used. Mountain travel, if ropes are used, including for organizing river crossings. mountain tourism from mountaineering in Altai and Siberia differs in goals. A mountain tourist, as a rule, travels through several valleys, passing between them through passes and climbing some peaks along the simplest routes. The climber, on the other hand, “throws” along one valley to the base camp in the simplest way possible (for example, on horseback), then makes acclimatization walks and climbs to the peaks. Moreover, the path of ascent is important for him. He can climb the same peak several times over increasingly difficult routes. Climbing and descent can take up to 24 hours, but the climber will definitely go down to spend the night in the base camp. A mountain tourist, on the other hand, observes the regime of the day more. He will spend the night where it is safe to put up a tent, for example, on a small area on the pass. For a climber, the main thing is the view from the top; for a mountain tourist, lakes, waterfalls, and canyons are also attractions. In general, a climber is more of an athlete, and a mountain hiker is more of an explorer, he learns to live in the territory he walks.

Recently, another term has appeared - trekking. This is a hiking trip along mountain paths, although there may be individual obstacles in the form of a kurum (a Ural-Siberian word meaning scree) and even a simple glacier. As a rule, trekking routes pass through villages and camp sites, so there is no need to carry food and tents. I enjoy traveling as a trekker in the Himalayas, but I hope that in Siberia all this infrastructure will not be developed for a long time. There must be a place left for us where we can rely only on ourselves and our team in order to feel the fullness of life.

So, let's focus on summer autonomous hiking or mountain travel, that is, hiking with a complete separation from civilization. What is the duration of the hike? The classic option is two weeks, which include entry into the first valley of the river, setting up the camp, radial trips (light walks) to the sights, a day trip, crossing the pass to the second valley, radial trips in the second valley, spare day, exit. Radials can also represent ascents to peaks. I prefer three-week trips (on average, I get to visit as many valleys as there are weeks on the trip). In three weeks, it is better to get used to the area and thoroughly go around the entire ridge, while in two weeks you can only see the main sights. I consider easy trips lasting two weeks without the use of mountain (rock-climbing or ice-climbing) equipment. A moderate journey lasts two weeks with special equipment or three weeks without special equipment. The hard journey lasts four weeks or three weeks with special equipment. With the current level of technology, only constantly training athletes will be able to carry a lot of weight. Therefore, it is better to break routes for a long time into two or three “rings” with a “bookmark” device, that is, to hide products on the next “rings”. In fact, we are talking about several trips that overlap in terms of time.

Most tourists can only afford one trip per summer. If you are a professional traveler, then it is quite possible to make 2-4. We must not forget about the rest. At least once a week you need to arrange a day, because this is the usual mode of life of a working person. Some leaders recommend doing a day trip on the fourth day, because the first three days beginners go on enthusiasm, and then they run out of strength, and further advancement is the result of calculated forces. If we are talking about "joining" trips, then I advise you to take a rest between parts in as many days as there are parts in a hike. For example, if you combine two ten-day trips together, then rest two days between them, and if three ten-day trips, then rest for three days. If we are talking about several trips over the summer to different areas, then, from my point of view, it is most harmonious after the trip to rest for as many days as the trip lasted. I also traveled in this mode for five years: I made a two-week hike in Altai in the last week of June - the first week of July, then rested for two weeks and spent a three-week hike further across Siberia.

What sources to use when developing a route? We will not consider "aerobatics" when it is necessary to lay new route, perhaps with first ascents, and when the source is only a map and images from the space of the Google Earth program. We will assume that descriptions can be found on the Internet.

Technical reports about sports trips. They most objectively describe the geography, route route, timing and obstacles passed. If you are going to make a sports "career" in tourism, then such reports are the main source of information. If for you, as for me, references, titles and regalia are not the main thing, and you are primarily interested in sights and in order for the trip as a whole to be interesting, then you need to know the following about technical reports:

1) Most likely, reports on hikes of 1-3 categories of difficulty will suit you, hikes of 4 and 5 categories of difficulty will be too difficult. Pay attention to the main obstacles. Passes of the first category of difficulty mean that you can pass them in one day without the use of special equipment (pass 1b means that you may need to hang one rope), passes of the second category will require the use of special equipment and training of participants in the necessary skills, even more difficult obstacles - systematic workouts. There is a method for calculating the category of complexity of the trip as a whole. If we make a rough estimate of travel in the Urals and Siberia, then a hike at a normal pace (20-30 km in the Urals, 15-20 km in Siberia, 10-15 km per day in Altai) and with the passage of passes of the first category will have such a category as the hike lasts for weeks.

2) Reports can be scammed. For example, if the mileage of 40-50 km is given on the last or first day, then you need to think about whether the group really walked or was given a lift. If photos of participants on the passes are shown, but there are no photos on some pass (it says that the weather was bad and the photo did not turn out) and this pass is located away from the main route (that is, its passage is not necessary and does not affect the passage of the entire trip ), then you should think, did the group really pass this pass?

3) Sometimes the route contains excessive "winding" of passes to increase the difficulty category of the hike, for example, the route goes around the mountain with the passage of three passes. You need to think about whether you should go through this ring with backpacks for three days, are there really interesting sights around the mountain, or maybe you should set up a camp and do two radials?

Commercial route programs. As a rule, they pass through really beautiful places and are described in terms of the beauty of the sights. A well-designed commercial itinerary is designed for people with an average level of experience and is likely to work for you. It should be compared with a sports run report in order to think about how to complete the route in a shorter time than described in the commercial program. As a rule, commercial trips are limited in time to two weeks, so they may not include attractions that are worth seeing. Therefore, you need to carefully look at the sights near the route and think about increasing the duration. For example, the most famous hike in Altai "Kucherla - Karatyurek Pass - Akkem" in commercial programs may include 1-2 radials in the Kucherla valley, although it is worth doing at least 4 radials there. It is not uncommon for commercial firms to offer an unrealistic hike to some “branded” peak, knowing in advance that the group members will abandon the hike when they see what they have to go on the spot. For example, we saw how groups going to the highest peak of Altai and all of Siberia - Belukha, turned around and left even before the Delaunay Pass. Therefore, if a technical ascent or a pass of a high difficulty category is announced in a commercial program, it is worth considering whether the program itself is realistic.

informal descriptions. These are descriptions of the impressions of the hike made by its participants, usually with photographs. From them you can get information about what is worth seeing on the route. When reading the description, you need to pay attention to whether the group is similar to yours. And keep in mind that the narrator's opinion about the area can be very subjective. For example, in the descriptions I read about the terrible swamps near Manaraga, if you go to its foot along the classical route from the Kar-kar pass. In my opinion, these swamps do not represent a serious obstacle. In any case, our speed was at least 4 km/h.

When reading the reports, one should pay attention to the dates of travel and river crossings. Focusing on the peaks and passes, tourists often do not pay attention to the rivers, although in mountain tourism, most accidents happen just at the crossings. And if in a sports trip tourists crossed the river knee-deep, then this is not a guarantee that you will not plunge waist-deep. Commercial routes are good because they simply will not go through risky crossings. Although there are no guarantees either. So, in Altai, from Kucherla, one of the most common radials to Lake Darashkol. Everyone crosses the Kucherlu ford. In 2010, for several days I could not decide to go to Darashkol because of the high water in Kucherla, replacing this walk with other radials. When there was no time left, we made a horse crossing. And they weren't wrong. A tourist who was fording the river died in our presence (he was knocked down and dragged under a blockage of logs).

Hiking geography and strategies for making a long schedule for several years.

The Ural stretches from north to south and in a broad sense includes the mountains of Novaya Zemlya, Pai-Khoi, Polar, Subpolar, Northern, Middle and Southern Urals and Mugodzhary (Kazakh Urals).

The mountainous section of Siberia, interesting from the point of view of travel, begins with Altai (besides the Russian Altai, there is also the Kazakh, Mongolian and Gobi Altai). To the north of Altai - Kuznetsk Alatau, to the east - first the Western Sayan, then the Eastern Sayan. South of the Sayan Mountains of Tuva.

To the east of the Sayan there are mountains around Lake Baikal. To the west and north-west of Bakal is the Baikal Range, to the south is Khamar-daban, on the eastern coast is the Barguzinsky Range. Further to the northeast is the Stanovoye Upland.

Siberia includes still hard-to-reach areas of the Putorana Plateau and the mountains of Yakutia, the number of which is equal to all the previous ones. I think that over the next ten years we will see an increase in tourist interest in these areas. For now, let's focus on the mountains to Transbaikalia for one more reason. The transfer to Yakutia is long and, perhaps, the journey there will be more expensive than, for example, to Iceland.

So, before us is a huge mountainous country. Where to go first, what to leave for later? I suggest three strategies:

1) One 2-3 week expedition per summer
2) Two trips over the summer: two weeks in Altai and three weeks in Siberia
3) 2-4 interconnected trips during the summer.

I will describe the details of travel in the third strategy. When describing the first two, I will only list the ranges.

Strategy #1. Suppose you want to spend 2-3 weeks of summer vacation on one trip to the Urals and Siberia, visiting a different mountainous region every year. This strategy is suitable for most tourists.

I offer five "hit" trips, from the category of "must-see":
1) Subpolar Urals. Natural park Yugyd-va. Mountain Narodnaya, Manaraga
2) Kuznetsk Alatau. Ridge Tigirtish (Celestial Teeth)
3) Altai. Katun Ridge. Rivers Kucherla, Akkem, pass Kara-Turek
4) Western Sayan. Ergaki Ridge
5) Baikal Range. Rivers Kurkula, Molokon, Ptitsa Peak

These hikes introduce you to key areas of different mountain systems. The order for the inhabitants of European Russia is precisely this, as it is associated with a gradual advance to the east. For residents of the Urals (Perm, Yekaterinburg, Ufa, Chelyabinsk), it is easier to get to Altai and Kuznetsk Alatau than to the Subpolar Urals. It is easier for Siberians to start hiking from places that are closer to them, as shown in the following table:

Table of mountain systems, cities and stations

Region	Near mountain system	Railway station or major settlement
European Russia	Subpolar Urals	Inta
Chelyabinsk region, Bashkiria, Orenburg region	Mountains of the Southern Urals	Zlatoust, Yuryuzan, Beloretsk, Magnitogorsk
Perm and Sverdlovsk regions	Northern Ural	Ivdel, Severouralsk, Krasnoturinsk, Serov
Omsk, Novosibirsk, Tomsk regions, Altai Territory	Altai	Biysk
Kemerovo region	Kuznetsk Alatau	Novokuznetsk
Khakassia, Krasnoyarsk Territory	Western Sayan, Western Tofalaria (Eastern Sayan)	Abakan, Minusinsk
Tuva	Mountains of Tuva	Abakan, then by bus to Kyzyl
Irkutsk region, west of Buryatia	Eastern Sayan: Tofalaria Tunkinsky bald mountains and Khamar-Daban	Nizhneudinsk Slyudyanka
Buryatia	Baikal region Transbaikalia	Severobaikalsk Barguzin, BAM stations

You can limit yourself to these trips if you think that the Earth is big, and our country is also big. And you still need to visit the Crimea, the Caucasus, the Kola Peninsula, the Tien Shan, Yakutia, Kamchatka and Kuril Islands. Another argument in favor of these places is that they need to be visited before they finally go crazy. We, accustomed to the wild expanses of our Motherland, are unlikely to want to see equipped trails, cafes, cable cars, hotels and motels on our route.

Each hike in the vicinity of Lake Baikal can end with a rest on the shore of Lake Baikal. In particular, those traveling by train to Irkutsk or Slyudyanka can arrange a week-long vacation on Olkhon Island.

For residents of European Russia, there may be another beginning of long hikes:

0A) Southern Urals. Taganay Natural Park, Lake Turgoyak or Zyuratkul Natural Park, Nurgush and Iremel.
The Southern Urals is close, accessible, there are many cities at the foot of the ridges - an ideal place to start tourism. It makes no sense for the inhabitants of the Urals to spend their vacation on these places, where you can go for a weekend on several routes. But before moving on to Siberia, they should make the following trips before this:

0B) Northern Urals. The main Ural ridge.
And a trip to Manpupuner, which opens the second cycle of travel:

6) Northern Urals. Manpupuner.

I have a travel encyclopedia with photographs of Paris, Easter Island, Kamchatka volcanoes and Manpupuner rocks on the cover. It is very clear where it is worth visiting from the calculation of trips around the Earth.

7) Altai. Ridges Iolgo and Uymensky, Lake Teletskoye. 77 Altai mountain-taiga route. This is the very beginning of Altai with accessible mountains, but sharp peaks with snowfields will beckon you on the horizon, and you will dream of further hikes in Altai.
8) Tuva. Mongun-Taiga. A feature of hiking in Tuva: you need to take into account the criminogenic situation.
9) Eastern Sayan. Tunkinsky goltsy

Third travel cycle:
10) Subpolar Urals. Ridge Saber
11) Altai. North Chuysky ridge. Shavlinsky lakes.
12) Western Sayan. Ridge Aradan.
13) Eastern Sayan. Tofalaria.
14) Transbaikalia. Barguzinsky ridge.

Fourth travel cycle.
15) Altai. South Chuisky ridge.
17) Tuva. Shapshalsky ridge.
18) Eastern Sayan. Valley of extinct volcanoes. Topographers Peak
19) Southern coast of Bakal. Khamar-Daban.

Fifth travel cycle.
20) Altai. Plateau Ukok, Mount Tavan-Bogdo-Ula
21) Western Sayan. Abakan Ridge.
22) Transbaikalia. Kodar.
23) Transbaikalia. Severo-Muisky ridge.

Sixth travel cycle.
24) Altai. Katun Ridge. Multinskie lakes
25) Eastern Sayan. Tofalaria. West Side
26) Transbaikalia. South Muya Range.
27) Altai. Terektinsky ridge.

It turns out that it takes 27 years to bypass interesting ridges to Transbaikalia, and then, probably, the same amount to bypass Yakutia and the Far East? If you fell in love with the Urals and Siberia, the second strategy will suit you.

Strategy #2

Go on two trips during the summer: one - two weeks in June-July in Altai, the second - three weeks in July-August in Siberia and the Urals. I can say that Altai enchants everyone who has visited it. Many tourists consider Altai to be the most beautiful mountains. I was told that it is more beautiful than the Tien Shan and the Himalayas. I tend to agree with this. Altai is very diverse. During a hiking day, you can change several climatic zones and see many sights. I know tourists who go to Altai every year and they don't need anything else. According to this strategy, the trip plan looks like this:

Year	Expedition 1	Expedition 2
1	77 Altai mountain-taiga route (3 weeks)	Northern Ural. Manpupuner (2 weeks)
2	Kuznetsk Alatau. Celestial Teeth	Altai. Katun Ridge. Kucherla-Akkem
3	Altai. North Chuysky ridge. Shavlinsky lakes, Maashey
4	Western Sayan. Ergaki	Subpolar Urals. Folk and Manaraga
5	Altai. Yuzhno-Chuysky Ridge	Eastern Sayan. Tunkinsky goltsy
6	Altai. Ukok, Tavan-Bogdo-Ula	Transbaikalia. Barguzinsky ridge
7	Western Sayan. Aradan	Eastern Sayan. Tofalaria
8	Altai. Katun Ridge. Multinskie lakes	Subpolar Urals. Saber
9	Altai. Terektinsky ridge	Eastern Sayan. Valley of extinct volcanoes
10	Western Sayan. Abakan Ridge	Tuva. Mongun-Taiga
11	Altai. The source of the Katun	Southern coast of Baikal. Khamar-Daban
12	Altai. Katun Ridge. Iedygem, Suluairy	Transbaikalia. Kodar
13	Tuva. Shapshalsky Ridge	Transbaikalia. North Muya Range
14		Transbaikalia. South Muya Ridge

Strategy #3 designed for those who are professionally engaged in tourism or are so passionate about tourism that they are ready to travel all summer. This strategy is suitable for tourist clubs, who can organize three or four hikes in nearby areas so that tourists after the end of one expedition can move on to the next. As for the New Nomads tourist club, I can say that we have a lot of tourists who are ready to go on three trips in a row. And if you think about it, this is not fanaticism, but quite. In full accordance with the name of our tourist club (“New Nomads”), some of our tourists go hiking with the onset of summer and return home when it is winter in the mountains. This method of planning requires strategic thinking from the club management and the coordinated work of the hike leaders.

Great trip to the South Urals

The peculiarity of the hike is that there are settlements on the route, so there is no need to carry all the products. The trip includes the following hikes:

1) Taganay Natural Park (1 week). Start in Karabash, finish in Zlatoust.
2) Urenga (3 days). Start in Zlatoust, finish in the village of Zyuratkul.
3) Zyuratkul Natural Park (1 week). Ridges Zyuratkul, Uvan, Nurgush. Start in the village of Zyuratkul, finish in Tyulyuk.
4) Zigalga (4 days). Start in Tyulyuk, finish in Aleksandrovka, return to Tyulyuk.
5) Iremel, Avalyak (4 days). Start in Tyulyuk, finish in Nikolaevka, transition to Verkhnearshinsky.
6) Kumardak, Inzerskiye Zubchatki, Yalangas (1 week). Start in VerkhneArshinsk, finish in Beloretsk.

Great trip to the Northern Urals

The difference from the Southern Urals is that the forest border is much lower, so the mountains seem more impressive at the same height. In July there are a lot of blood-sucking insects. The climate is much cooler. Includes the routes of the most popular hikes in the Northern Urals:

1) Mountains near the Konzhakovsky Stone (1 week): Serebryansky, Konzhakovsky, Tylaysky, Kosvinsky Stones, Three Hillocks, Seven Humans, Sukhogorsky (Kazansky) Stones.
2) Main Ural Ridge, Kvarkush ridge with Zhigalan waterfalls (1 week).
3) To the rocks of Manpupuner and Torreporreiz (3 weeks, if without Torreporreiz, then 2 weeks). Dyatlov Pass - Kholatsyakhl - Otorten with Lake Lunthusaptur and Poritaysori waterfalls - Motevchahl - Yanyghachechahl - Yanyvondersyakhl - Pecheryatalakhchahl (source of the Pechora) - Manpupuner - Torreporreiz.

Great trip to the Subpolar Urals

This is the very heart of the Urals. Despite the fact that I have been to Baikal, Altai, Sayans, Himalayas, Kamchatka, the view from the highest peak of the Urals, Mount Narodnaya, I consider the best view in my life. Traditionally, tourists go to the Subpolar Urals for a week from the Zhelannaya geological base with an ascent to Narodnaya and Manaraga (some then raft from Manaraga along the Kosyu River).

I led the group on a three-week hike, which was a ring: Zhelannaya - the foot of Narodnaya, climbing Narodnaya - the Kar-kar pass - the foot of Manaraga, climbing the Small Tooth of Manaraga - the foot of the Bell Tower, climbing the Bell Tower - the Reindeer Breeders Plateau, climbing the Protection and Peak Komsomol - Olenevodov pass - Khobe-western pass - pass Blue Lakes– ascent to Karpinsky Peak – Zhelannaya base. Planned ascents to Blucher, Mansiner and Ugra did not take place due to bad weather. I believe that the trip was successful, as we visited five peaks in good weather, which is often rainy in the Subpolar Urals. Since there are white nights in July, it is possible to “catch” good weather during the day and start the journey at least at 2 am.

The great trip I propose to the Subpolar Urals consists of the following parts:

1) Auxiliary part - the transfer of products from the Zhelannaya base through the Kar-Kar pass to the Manaraga river valley. In good weather - climbing Narodnaya.

2) The ring around the mountains Narodnaya, Blucher, Yugra, Mansiner, Protection with entry to the Parnuk plateau to collect amethysts. If you do not spend the auxiliary part, then return to the Desired base for groceries for the next part. Will take about 2 weeks.

3) Crossing the Kar-kar to the Manaraga valley. Climbing Narodnaya and Manaraga, going to the Belfry and climbing it. Transition to Saber and ascent to Saber, exit. Duration - 3 weeks.

A great journey through the Kuznetsk Alatau and the Western Sayan

Sayan is an endless sea of ​​taiga with round caps of loaches rising above it. There are also ridges in the west of Siberia that rise above the taiga with pointed peaks. And they have the appropriate names: Tigirtish (Heavenly teeth) and Ergaki (fingers) with the Aradan ridge adjacent to it, which is included (together with Ergaki) in the natural park of the same name. mountain rivers flow into blue lakes (there are especially many of them in the Golden Valley of the Celestial Teeth). There are graceful waterfalls. There are small glaciers on the Kuznetsk Alatau.

The hike consists of three parts:

1) Aradan (two weeks). Nistaforovka river - Rovny stream - Valley of nine lakes - radially to the Minusinsk tourists pass and Aradansky peak - Prohodnoy pass - Emerald guitar lake - Vodopadny stream - radially to Politekhnichesky pass - Unexpected pass - Grebnevoy pass - Mirror lake - lake 1627 - Maralii stream - river Lower Small Kazyr-Sug - Osypnoy pass - Aradan lakes - Bear pass - Lake plateau - Prapor Yunosti pass - Red lake - Baklanikha pass - Podnebesnoe lake - Tushkanchik camp site. This most common route runs along the eastern part of the Aradan Range. The ridge itself is much longer and includes the still little visited central and western parts with the same sharp peaks and lakes.

2) Ergaki (two weeks). Ring through Ergak passes with radials. Tourist base "Jerboa" - Marble Lake - Western Cadets Pass - Artists Lake, radial to Mountain Spirits Lake and Star Pass - Malachite Bath Lake - Arrow camp, radial to Tsvetnye Lakes and Pikantny Pass, radial to Ice Lake - Taigishonok River - Lake Eight - Misty-1 pass - Skazka lake, radial to the waterfalls Bogatyr and Grazia, radial to the Stone Castle - Skazka pass - Azure lake, radial to Mat Sayan peak - Taigish-1 pass - Small Buibinskoye lake - Tarmazakovskiy bridge. From the arrow you can go to Lake Bolshoe Buibinskoe and climb the Metugul-Taiga ridge. Also of interest are the lakes south of Ergak: Big and Small Bezrybnoe, Zolotarnoe and Svetloye. In this case, it takes 3 weeks to complete the route.

3) Kuznetsk Alatau (two weeks). The route "The Big Ring along the Celestial Teeth": Luzhba - Glukhariny shelter - Amzas - Marukh pass (900m) - Podnebesny stream, viewing waterfalls, swimming in a radon "bath", Radialka to Graduates Lake, climbing the Big Tooth (2046m) - Belsu sources - Khodovoy pass (1110m) - Turalyg river valley - Goat Gate pass (1806m) - Haratas lake. From the pass, walking light to the mountains old fortress(2211m) and Upper Tooth (2178m). A light walk along the Golden Valley, sightseeing of lakes and waterfalls, climbing Silver Peak (2063m). lake Kharatas - lake. Hunuhuzuh (Golden Valley) - trans. Karatash - r. Small Kazyr - the mouth of the Vysokogorny stream. Radial to the valley of Vysokogorny and Vodopadny streams. Climbing #2 Big Tooth or Small Tooth. Kupriyanovskaya glade - lane. Kazyrsky - Algui - Amzas - Luzhba. From Belsu Sources, you can make an optional week-long hike through the Rocky Mountains.

Big trip around Tuva

The journey through Tuva is a continuation of the journey through the Kuznetsk Alatau and the Western Sayan and can be completed with it in one year. Unfortunately, the criminogenic situation greatly limits the tourist opportunities of this beautiful land. Recently, ecotourism has begun to develop in Tuva. It is worth visiting yurts with ethnic concerts (throat singing) and the only shamanic clinic in the world in Kyzyl.

Hiking routes in Tuva:

1) Shapshalsky Ridge (two-week trip). Bai-Tal - r. Khemchik - the mouth of Chinge-Khem - r. Chinge-Khem - the mouth of the river from Ak-Oyuk - Mt. Ak-Oyuk (3613 m. radially) - a pass to the Chon-Khem valley - Wild Lakes, per. Rocky (radially) - Pyramiden (3477 m.) - r. Ak-Oyuk - the confluence of Ak-Oyuk and Shuya - per. Shapshal, city 3349 m. (radial) - r. Shui - pos. Shui.

2) Mongun-Taiga - the highest peak of Tuva (3976m.) - a two-week trip. Climbing to the summit is easy, but since the summit is covered by a glacier, climbing requires walking in ropes and crampons. During the trip, you can visit the valleys of the Tolaity River with waterfalls, Uzun-Khol and Khindiktig-Khol lakes.

Great Altai Journey

Altai is probably the most colorful mountain system. From almost any glade on the route, you can admire all the colors of nature: a green forest, a blue lake or a waterfall, multi-colored scree, white snowfields and glaciers. This is one of the reasons why you can visit Altai every year.

Hiking in Altai:

1) Fragments of the legendary route 77: Lake Teletskoye, Iolgo ridge and Karakol lakes, Uymensky ridge (2-3 weeks). This is the northern part of the Russian Altai. Here the mountains are low and accessible for climbing, but from the tops you already have a view of the pointed snow-capped peaks.

2) Katunsky ridge, valleys of the Kucherla and Akkem rivers, Kara-Turek pass, possibly climbing Belukha (2-3 weeks). Start and finish in Tungur and Kucherla. This is the very heart of Altai. Ascents to the highest peak of Altai - Belukha - are made by commercial firms, but it must be borne in mind that the mountain is treacherous, half of the ascents are canceled due to weather conditions. Climbing requires endurance and climbing skills. But from the Kara-Turek pass, a fabulous view of Belukha and other Altai mountains opens up.

3) North-Chuysky ridge (2-3 weeks). Start and finish in front of Chibit. Valleys of the rivers Shavla, Maashey, Aktru. Nizhneshavlinsky pass. Shavlinsky lakes, surrounded by walls with snow-white peaks, are one of the best views in Altai.

4) South Chuisky ridge (2-3 weeks). Start and finish in Beltir village. Valleys of the rivers Elangash, Karaoyuk, Taldura. Rublevsky, Udachny, Leningradsky passes. Climbing the highest peak - Irbistu Peak (3967m, 2A) - requires mountaineering training. This is an unusual ridge, on which there is little forest, but peaks are visible from everywhere. Local residents breed yaks, which can be found in almost any part of the range, and camels near Lake Karakol.

5) Ukok Plateau (2 weeks). Start and finish in Jazator. This is the southernmost part of the Russian Altai. Steppe with Scythian mounds and lakes and pointed peaks. Climbing the sacred mountain Tavan-Bogdo-Ula requires the use of climbing equipment.

6) Terektinsky ridge (2 weeks). Rarely visited, but promising in terms of tourism range. Commercial firms offer there for the most part horse trips.

Journey along the Katunsky ridge in Altai

I singled out the trip along the Katunsky ridge as an expedition separate from the Great Altai trip, because if you visit all the valleys of this ridge, it will take almost the entire summer season and there may not be enough time for other ridges of Altai. And the Katun Ridge really deserves to be walked all summer long! Diverse valleys with lakes and waterfalls on tributary streams and sparkling snow-capped peaks will not leave anyone indifferent. Among esotericists, at the suggestion of Roerich, this place is considered Shambhala. A typical two-week route looks like entry along one river, parking on the lake, radials, crossing the pass of the 1st category of complexity into the second valley, radials from there, exit down the river to the village. If you combine three or more valleys, then it is logical to bring food on horseback to the valleys in the middle of the hike. I cite only the rivers flowing from the northern slopes of the ridge, with the exception of the Katun. There is also the Kazakh river Berel and the southern rivers flowing on the Ukok plateau (it is logical to combine trips there with trips to Ukok).

1) The source of the Katun. Tikhoe and Talmen lakes. Start and finish in the village of Kaytanak. Through the Krepkiy pass to the Multinsky lakes, through Khazinikhinsky - to the Kuragan valley.

2) Multi. Cast from the Multinsky maral. Radials along the Travel Mult, Krepkaya, Mult, Kuyguk. Through the Kuyguk pass, you can go to the Akchan valley and climb the sacred mountain Kolban, which has steep slopes and does not require special equipment. Routes include visiting the most beautiful lakes. Through the Strong Pass you can go to the Tikhaya River, and from there to Talmen Lake and to the sources of the Katun. From Akchan - transition to Lake Kyrgyz and to the valley of Kuragan.

3) Kuragan, Yoldo. Transfer from the village of Katanda ( ferry crossing through Katun). Through Lake Kyrgyz, access to the Kuyguk valley, then to the Multinsky lakes, through the Khazinikhinsky pass - access to Lake Talmen and the sources of the Katun.

4) Kucherla. Start in the villages of Tungur and Kucherla. Radials to Tsvetnoe lakes, Kuldur-Oyuk, Darashkol, Mushtuairy, Konyairy. In my opinion, this is the central Altai lake, where you can safely stand for a week and do radials that do not bother you. Camps on other Altai lakes are limited to 2-3 radial camps. Through Darashkol and the passes of Ioldoairy Western and Ioldo we pass to the valley of Kuragan. Through the Kara-Turek pass to the Akkema valley.

5) Akkem. Start in the villages of Tungur and Kucherla. Radials to the valleys of Ak-oyuk, Yarlu, to the lake of Spirits, Tomsk sites on the Rodzevich (Akkem) glacier. From the Tomsk sites, the route of climbing to the highest peak of Altai and all of Siberia - Belukha (requires the use of climbing equipment) begins. Through the Kara-Turek pass, exit to the Kucherly valley, through the Sarybel pass to the Tekel valley, then through the Tekel pass to the Suluaira valley.

6) Valleys of the Suluairy, Mensu, Yedygem, Kulagash rivers. Exit to the village of Jazator on the Ukok plateau. These valleys are mainly horseback tours.

Great trip to the Eastern Sayan

The Eastern Sayan is less familiar to tourists than the Western Sayan or the mountains around Lake Baikal. However, there is something to see. These are high mountains, including extinct volcanoes, wild mountain lakes, hot and mineral springs, deep gorges.

Hiking in the Eastern Sayan:

1) Tunkinsky loaches. The best time to travel is August, when the rainfall is the least. The routes require two weeks to pass, but it is better to allocate three weeks to stand at the Shumak mineral springs for a week and do radials. Among esotericists, this area is another candidate for the role of Shambhala. There are warm radon baths and about 150 exits. mineral water from a variety of diseases. In the Tunkinskaya valley, at the foot of the Tunkinsky bald mountains, there are resort villages with mineral springs - Nilova Pustyn and Arshan. There are three popular routes on Shumak:

1a) Nilova Pustyn village - Shumak pass - Shumak valley - Kitoy river - Arshansky pass - Arshan village. This is the easiest route to take in case of bad weather.

1b) Nilova Pustyn village - Shumak pass - Shumak valley - Narin-gol river - Yaman-gol river - Ara-Khubyty river - Khubytinsky pass - Nilova Pustyn village. I recommend this route in case of stable good weather and low water in the rivers. It includes the passage of the gorges of the Narin-gol and Yaman-gol rivers, on which it is required to make about 40 crossings and in some places go straight along the river. This is a unique place in Siberia where you can admire the sheer cliffs of gorges and waterfalls. The hike is compatible with a trip to Khamar-Daban, since you need to get to the same station - Slyudyanka.

1c) Nilova Pustyn village - Shumak pass - Shumak valley - Windy pass - Bilyuty river - Bepkan pass - Dinosaur pass - Arshan village. The route is recommended when high water makes option 1b impassable, but precipitation does not lead to the formation of snow cover on the passes.

2) Valley of extinct volcanoes, Topographers peak (climbing requires experience and ice equipment), hot springs of Khoyto-gol and mineral springs of Zholgan (3 weeks). The route introduces the participants to the various forms of relief of the Eastern Sayan. The nearest settlement is Orlik, it requires off-road vehicles.

3) Tofalaria. mountain country with wildlife V Eastern Sayan- country of tofs. It is quite possible to make three trips lasting 2-3 weeks along it: from the west from the Krasnoyarsk Territory to Grandiose Peak, from the northeast from Agulskoye and Medvezhye Lakes to Grandiose Peak, from the east to the peaks of Triangulators, Transcendental and Celestial.

Great trip to Baikal

Baikal is a unique place for outdoor activities. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, it allows you to combine hiking in the mountains with relaxing on the sea (as Baikal is called by all the locals), to visit the birthplace of shamanism - the island of Olkhon. There are also hot springs on Lake Baikal - Khakusy and springs on the Goryachaya River.

Hiking around Lake Baikal:

1) The Baikal Range (2 weeks) is located on the western shore of Lake Baikal. You need to get to Severobaikalsk. Visiting the valleys of the Kurkula and Molokon rivers, viewing the waterfalls on Molokon, the glacier at the foot of Mount Chersky, climbing the Ptitsa peak (the Bird is the spur of the big top ridge - Chersky Mountains. Climbing Chersky requires the use of climbing equipment).

2) Khamar-Daban (3 weeks). The best time to travel is August, when the clouds from Baikal almost do not come. Smooth mesas in the west give way to sharp peaks in the east. The hike is long, designed for hardy tourists (about 20 km are required per day with a total climb of 1200 m). Start in Slyudyanka, finish in Vydrino. Route: Slyudyanka - Chersky Peak (climbing, inspection of Chertova Lake and Lake Heart and waterfalls on Podkomarnaya) - Bosan - Margasanskaya Sopka - Margasan - Tumbusun Dulga - Utulikskaya Horseshoe - lakes Perevalnoe, Patovoe, Galichye - Khan-Ula - Nukhen-Daban and Langutai Gates - Taltsinsky Peak - Tepliye Lakes - Sobolinoye Lake - Vydrino. Shortening the route will require mounted crossings over turbulent rivers. An alternative form of trekking is to enter from any railway station, radial, then move to another station, etc.

3) The Barguzinsky Ridge is the most powerful of the ranges surrounding Baikal with many sharp peaks and alpine lakes. On it it is quite possible to organize several trips lasting 2-4 weeks. Routes can start from the Barguzin valley (the eastern foot of the ridge) and go through the passes to the eastern shore of Baikal or start and end on the shore of Baikal at the mouth different rivers. Often routes pass through the hot springs of Khakusy, lakes Frolikha and Ukoinda and in the upper reaches of the Thompuda River.

4) Olkhon Island. It is logical to finish the trip around Baikal with a rest on the island. You can stop in the largest village of the island - Khuzhir, from where it is easy to order transport for trips around the island, a boat, or in the Nyurgan Bay - a bay with sandy beach in a larch forest (from there it is convenient to walk around the northern part of the island). A week's rest on the island is enough to visit all its sights: the birthplace of shamanism - Shamanka rock, the northern tip of the island - Cape Khoboy and the Uzura valley, the bays of the eastern shore of Khatkha, Idiba and Tashkinei, the lake with healing mud Shara-Nur, the highest peak of the island - Zhima, southeastern bays and lakes Khonkhoi, Muku-Nur, Nurskoe, archaeological site - Kurykan wall.

4b) An alternative to the camp on Olkhon can be a camp on the Svyatoy Nos peninsula with a visit to the Khakusy hot springs and a boat trip to the Ushkany Islands.

Great trip to Transbaikalia

I singled out these trips as a trip separate from the Great Baikal Journey, since it is not possible to complete all these trips in one summer. Various combinations of trips from a trip to Baikal and Transbaikal are possible, ending with a rest on Lake Baikal.

I have not yet been on hikes in Transbaikalia and have not worked out these routes, so I will make descriptions of these hikes in the future:

1) Kodar with the Chara Sands desert
2) North Muya Range
3) South Muya Range
4) Upper Angara Range

Conclusion

In a review article on the routes of the Urals and Siberia, I wanted to say that we have a huge mountainous country, which is quite enough for a summer holiday for many years. Commercial tours can be found along many routes, but they only allow you to look inside these ridges. A full-fledged trip is possible in a well-coordinated and developing team of hiking friends. Systematic, from year to year, bypassing the ridges of Siberia requires the organization of a tourist club. And this is quite justified: you will grow up together with your hiking friends, your team will develop, and the Urals and Siberia will give you more and more beautiful views, becoming your homeland. In the tourist club "New Nomads" there is a project "

The idea to visit the Urals arose literally a month before the trip. I decided to take a short vacation - 1 week - and ride somewhere. After a short search, he stopped in the Urals.
10 days in total. Of these, 4 days on the way there and back and 6 days there. This is the preliminary schedule. I'm going to keep a logbook and write everything that is not too lazy. (Kilometers on the odometer and Moscow time everywhere).
I take a tent and sleeping bags with me, but this is just in case. I'm going to live in motels and cheap hotels.

May 19, 2010 11:59 pm, Wednesday.
I'm starting a logbook for the car. A departure in the direction of the Urals is scheduled for Saturday. I have to cover several thousand kilometers in Russia, visit large and not very cities of the Urals and see various sights. Today, a lot of necessary things were purchased. It remains only to purchase an ax, sunglasses and engine oil. Filled up a full tank on '95 at British Petroleum.
List of things I'm going to take with me:
For auto:
1. Socket keys
2. Pliers
3. Hammer
4. Insulating tape
5. Cold welding
6. Engine oil Shell Helix 5W40
7. Washer fluid
8. Scotch
9. Cloths for wiping windows
10. Water (6 liter bottle)
11. Rubber for gaskets
12. Ax
13. Reflector under glass
14. Hose clamps
15. Navigator
16. Cards
17. Board (stand for a jack)
18. Lantern
19. Batteries for the alarm key fob, flashlight and camera.

Other things:
1. Thermos
2. Dishes
3. Boiler
4. Swiss knife
5. Tent
6. Sleeping bags, pillow
7. Foam pad
8. Polyethylene for covering the tent
9. Camera + charger
10. Raincoat
11. Sunglasses
12. Mosquito repellent
13. Sunscreen

May 21, 2010 11:15 pm, Friday.
All necessary equipment (if it can be called such) has been purchased, including an ax and sunglasses. It remains to pack everything, put it in the trunk and you can touch it on the road. But before departure, you need to do an important thing - get enough sleep. That is what I will do now.
By the way, I was told on the forum that it is worth visiting the lake and the Zyuratkul park instead of the Taganay park, since there is a road to the lake itself. I decided (previously) to take the advice, and we'll see.

May 22, 2010 10:45 am, Saturday. Moscow. 54231 km.
Finally, the day of departure arrived. Items are packed and stowed. The car has been checked. Everything is fine - you can touch!

12:38 54305km. Somewhere after Noginsk.
Finally left the tenacious embrace of Moscow. 70 km in 2 hours is cool. Further like free.

15:50 54571km. Myachkovo

16:50 54639km. Nizhny Novgorod
I decided to go through the city, and not along the district. On Saturday, the city is free, so there were no problems with travel. I poured 30 liters of gasoline at Lukoil.

Traffic jam in Chuvashia. They have been building a road there for five years, but no progress is visible.

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On the roads of Chuvashia at sunset:

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23:50 55131km. Motel between Kazan and Yelabuga.
So the first day of the trip is over. Completed exactly 900 km. The roads came across different - and wide, and narrow, and even, and broken. But I can safely say that there are not so many broken ones. Everything is fine with the car. I'm staying in some shabby motel. Money was ripped off 780 rubles, and the conditions for 300 do not pull. I am an unpretentious person, but I somehow feel sorry for the money.

May 23, 2010 8:48
After sleeping and having breakfast, I'm on my way again. Overboard +17, partly cloudy. Today I have to get to the Kungur ice cave and, perhaps, have time to examine it. My path lies through Izhevsk and Perm. There is not enough gasoline, and it is not clear when the next Lukoil will be, so I decide to plop Shemordannefteprodukt on 300 rubles. I hope I don't choke...

9:55 55206km.
They stopped me at some checkpoint in Tatarstan and wrote me down in a magazine. They are probably fighting terrorists. Watch out!

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13:19 55464km Udmurtia
I stopped to rest in the woods, but the mosquitoes here are very angry, so it’s impossible to stay outside for a long time.

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14:35 55529km Game
I couldn't drive past the modern Lukoil gas station. Drove, refueled, drove on.

19:39 55790km Perm. Cafe "City cafe".
Arrived in Perm. I'm sitting in a cafe, waiting for an order. I walked a bit around Perm, took a picture of Kama, the center, saw one club Getz - with a sticker, but without a rear bumper.

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22:36 55856km Kungur.
I stayed at the Stalagmit Hotel. Relic hotel of the middle Scoop period. The money is decent, but the conditions are like in a hostel. Well, okay, we are no strangers, the main thing is that there is a bed.
Today I drove a little over 700 kilometers. The theme of the day is roads. The roads here are terrible. If good roads prevail in Tatarstan, fifty to fifty in Udmurtia, then in the Perm Territory there are only small patches of good roads. It looks like this:

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The road Perm - Yekaterinburg, at least to Kungur, is disgusting. And not only by its perfect weakness, but also throughput. Such roads connect neighboring villages, not two major cities. GAI continues to sit in the bushes ...
On the way out of Perm, they stopped at the post and checked all the documents on the bases. To their regret and to my pleasure, I am fine with them.
The nature here is beautiful. Wooded hills and small streams. I liked Udmurtia more, although in Perm the Kama is also impressive.
I safely drove around Izhevsk, but Perm passed through the center. Didn't find anything surprising there. All regional centers of Russia are similar to each other. I didn't find where to eat. A couple of sushi bars don't count. Having driven away, I dined at the "City Cafe", cheap and tasty.
Given the quality of the roads and the unimportant speed of movement, it will be necessary to redraw the original route and cancel Tyumen and Tobolsk. It's taking too long. This is not for you to get from Moscow to Voronezh, 500 km in 5 hours. Here the average speed is two times less. Tomorrow the cave and move on towards Nizhny Tagil along secondary roads.

May 24, 2010 11:10 Monday. Kungur.
I had breakfast at the hotel. Standard scrambled eggs and tea. Visited the Kungur Ice Cave. For 300 rubles, the guide took an hour through the grottoes and told stories.

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14:18 55989km. city ​​of Chusovoy
I photographed the Chusovaya River in the city of Chusovaya from a bridge over this very river. I dined at the Pereval cafe. Let's go further.

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14:44 55998km
Exceeded the speed limit by 100 rubles (Not me in the photo).

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16:13 56094km. Border of Europe and Asia.
Crossed the border. One pair of wheels in Europe, the other in Asia...

20:39 56237km. Verkhoturye.
I got to the city of Verkhoturye, examined the Kremlin and the cathedral.

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I found out that there is a hotel here, or rather the navigator told me. I decided to stop here and not go further. Not very nice
ride on unfamiliar country roads in a vrotah. In general, the third day of my road trip went well. In the morning I visited the Kutgur Ice Cave. This took about an hour and a half.
Then he rode slowly to Verkhoturye. Slowly, because there are no roads in the Perm Territory. What was my surprise, having entered the Sverdlovsk region, to find out that there are roads here. I just want to say that it was like I got to Europe, but no!
It's just the opposite - today I crossed the border of Europe and Asia. The border runs almost along the border of the regions. In general, Asia pleased.
Verkhoturye at the entrance is not impressive. It seems like another village of the same type, but then you notice domes, more domes. On the high bank of the Tura River there is a monastery and the Kremlin. And a great view of the other side. Some kind of peace
hanging over the river. The sunset there is amazing! Get up early tomorrow morning and hit the road. Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha, Alapaevsk, Nizhny Tagil, Nevyansk and in the evening get to Yekaterinburg.

May 25, 2010 8:37 am. 56237km. Verkhoturye.
I had breakfast and set off for Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha.

10:00
Refueling at some gas station with some kind of gasoline. I hope I get there somehow.

10:55 56404km. Nizhny Tagil
Refueling at Lukoil.
Pictures of Nizhny Tagil:

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13:48 56527km. Lower Sinyachikha.
Let's start visiting the museum.

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14:40
The museum has been visited. We move further towards Nevyansk.

17:20 56693km. Nevyansk.
I looked at the tower. Unfortunately, I did not get inside - the museum was already closed.

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18:10 56769km. Ekaterinburg.
Stopped by relatives. So today I looked at the Museum of Architecture in Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha and the Nevyansk Leaning Tower. The country road to Sinyachikha turned out to be, to put it mildly, not very good.

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A gravel-dirt road, along which, probably, the ore was transported from the Shaitansky mine to the Lower or Upper Salda. By the way, in any self-respecting village there is a city pond, which in the old days was used for
water wheel drives of the plant. Well, there are plenty of metallurgical plants. Getz and I heroically overcame the road and finally reached Sinyachikha. The museum consists of several log houses, turrets and churches. looks
not bad, especially on the sloping green slope of the Sinyachikha River. Nevyansk is famous for its leaning Demidov tower. She really turned out to be tilted, which was required to be proved.
It is worth saying a few words about Nizhny Tagil. I drove only along the edge, and I was struck by the number of factories and the decrepit appearance of the city. Are factories not profitable? Or don't pay taxes? Or the authorities do not want to repair roads and buildings?

In general, I observed a strange circumstance today. Between settlements the roads are good and excellent, but in the settlements they are completely broken. It is not clear why such a shift.
I also noticed one more thing. If you see such a board and Magistral LLC is on it, feel free to drive along this road, it is of good quality, only without markings.

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10:14 56889km. Natural park "Deer streams".

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14:49 56889km. Natural park "Deer streams".
I stomped 15 kilometers. My legs are buzzing.

17:21 57006km. Ekaterinburg. Cafe Pravda on Karl Liebknecht Street.
Finally, I sit and eat, before that I was on my feet and was hungry. Today I started the day with a traffic jam, feeling the traffic density of Yekaterinburg. Well, not for long.
The Deer Streams Park is located 120 kilometers from Yekaterinburg. 120 rubles from the nose + 50 rubles for parking and walk as much as you like. There are two routes - 6 km and 15 km. I chose the second one.
Sun, sky, forest, river, rocks, birds sing, insects buzz... It's the best way to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. But I was well. Legs ache, calluses buzz. I don’t know how I will visit three more parks.
I returned to Yekaterinburg, looked at the temple, the city pond and sit in a cafe writing this opus. I respect establishments that can cook steak.

May 27, 2010 08:49 Thursday. 57018km. Ekaterinburg.
I'm standing in line at the car wash. It is necessary to wash the insects from the muzzle of the face of the car. Another place was added to the route - "Ganina Yama". I will go there now.

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14:00 57072 km. On the way out of Yekaterinburg towards Chelyabinsk.
Refueling stop

14:45 57096km.
The driver also refreshed himself in the cafe "Magistral".

16:55 57238km. Lake Uvildy.
The weather messed up all the plans. It's raining heavily and you can't see anything. In such conditions, it will not be possible to explore natural attractions. I don't know what to do next.

19:33 57351 km. Chrysostom.
Inspected Lake Turgoyak. The rain has stopped, but it's still very wet. Now I will look for a hotel in Zlatoust.

21:45 57357km. Chrysostom. Hotel "Taganay".
Stayed in a good hotel. Room with shower and TV for 900 rubles.
This morning I visited the Ganina Yama Monastery. The feeling of freshness is quite evident. Some kind of political order. Although it looks pretty organic. Log churches and houses in a pine forest.
After he moved towards Chelyabinsk to see the lakes and, maybe, Taganay. I stopped to take a picture of some lake, the clouds were already hanging heavy, but the rain had not yet fallen. It was worth driving off a couple of kilometers and a wall of water collapsed to the ground.
The number of lakes is amazing, but it was not possible to appreciate their beauty, only Turgoyak pleased. One strange place is Karabash. I looked - like a mountain, but, having driven closer, I saw that the mountains seemed to be artificial. Mountains of some slag. And the earth is all around
scorched. And on real hills very rare trees grow. There are no grasses or bushes. Martian landscapes. I later found out about the dirtiest city on Earth ...
I looked at Uvildy and Turgoyak lakes and came to Zlatoust. It remains to find out whether it is possible to see something in Taganay in one day and call on Zyuratkul.
It was then that I discovered one most unpleasant thing - a tick was sitting on my back. It looks like it's been days. I went to the emergency room, where they removed it and told me what medicine to take.
I don’t know yet what the consequences will be, but the sightseeing program is being phased out. I'm heading home. I don't want to end up in a hospital away from home.

16:07 57800km. Somewhere after Ufa.
Ate and refueled.

22:40 58347km. Chuvashia. Kanash
Stopped by relatives. Today I covered 990 km.

May 29, 2010 13:30 Saturday. 58357km. Chuvashia.
Refueling before the last push. I hope to be in Moscow in the evening.

22:45 59092km. Moscow.
I'm home.

Conclusion.
The trip, I think, was generally successful (except for the tick). The route turned out to be:
Moscow - Kazan - Izhevsk - Perm - Kungur - Verkhoturye - Nizhny Tagil - Alapaevsk - Yekaterinburg - Miass - Zlatoust - Ufa - Naberezhnye Chelny - Kazan - Moscow.
Passed 4861 km. Eaten 350 liters of gasoline. Average fuel consumption is 7.2 l/100km.
Refueled mainly at Lukoil. In the Urals, a liter of 95 costs 23.10-23.15, in the European part - 24.50-25.00

Article text updated: 03/09/2019

Folk wisdom says: “An egg is expensive for Christ’s Day,” and that publishing a report on a car trip to interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region that happened at the end of March, when it was still winter in the Urals, and not now, on the verge of summer, is not good. But I have so much material in the queue for posting on the site that it’s impossible to share travel reviews quickly. So, excuse me, my friends, I'm telling you only now. And, although the route that I will describe today is more suitable for excursions in winter, I am sure that some of the guests reading this text will decide to follow it in spring, summer, and autumn.

In general, it all started with the fact that after an exciting, very eventful trip by car around the Perm Territory to New Year, my wife and I did not want to stay at home for the holidays on March 8 (this year it turned out as many as 4 free days). It took a long time to decide where to go, we really wanted to combine visiting interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria. The main goal of this trip was to be the Mambet rock, up to 200 meters high. It is located in the Gafury district of Bashkiria, 10 km from the village of Tolparovo. Getting there in the summer is not easy, as you have to overcome something like 10 fords across the Zilim River. But in winter you can come to the camp site, and from there on a horse harnessed to a sleigh, right along the riverbed, you can get to the foot of this amazing natural attraction.

Well, on the way to the Mambet rock, you can see a lot more: mountains, rocks, and caves (at least I wanted to go to the Abaznovsky ice waterfall and visit the Askinsky ice cave). In order not to be distracted, I will tell you about this route at the end of the article, since we did not get to Tolparovo, because we woke up on March 8 on the day we started the trip with a temperature. And the trip that I am talking about today is a shortened version of that planned large-scale trip in the South Urals in March.

1. Route map listing the sights of the Southern Urals that we visited, or those that have already been described in the blog.
2. Ustinovsky canyon in the vicinity of Miass and the Bazhov Mountain Park in Zlatoust.
3. Observation deck Black Rock in the Taganay National Park.
4. Description of excursions in the city of Satka, Chelyabinsk region and in its environs.
5. A trip to the Idrisovskaya cave in the Salavat region of Bashkiria.

1. Map of the route of travel to the sights of the Chelyabinsk region

Let's show the scheme of the trip that took place and the one that was originally planned. By the way, even if a cold hadn’t interfered, we wouldn’t have got to Mambet: it’s too far from Yekaterinburg - for such a trip, you either need to skip other interesting places and race all day without stopping, or have a vacation of 5-6 days long at your disposal.

Note. On the map, the red dots are the actual route of the trip, the orange dots are the places that can be found on the blog in the Weekend Hiking section, the colored dots are the sights that I have not seen yet, or have not written a report on the site.

So, our trip to the South Urals took place on March 24-25, 2018. The plan and the fact are slightly different, so we could not see everything we wanted: below is the real route.

Day one of travel:

1. Ustinovsky Canyon (did not reach).
2. Mountain Park named after Bazhov (we visited the Red Hill in Zlatoust nearby, but did not go in).
3. Hike to observation deck Black rock in the Taganay natural park.
4. Karagay quarry for the extraction of magnesite in Satka (we could not climb the observation deck).
5. Excursion to the Hammer and Sickle Monument on the outskirts of Satka.

Second day:

1. A trip to the ancient hydroelectric power station in the Porogi tract.
2. Excursion to national park Zyuratkul. Visit to the Ice Fountain and moose farm "Sokhatka".
3. Moving to the border of the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria, where already on the side of the neighboring republic we go on a hike to the Idrisovskaya cave.

We left home at 17:30 along the road, the existence of which I did not know before: through Starobelokatai and Tyulgash we went to the city of Mikhailovsky. In Yekaterinburg were somewhere at 23:30. The journey, although partly through familiar places, turned out to be very rich and varied in terms of impressions. Once again, they pleased their souls by visiting interesting places.

2. A trip to the Ustinovsky canyon. Bazhov Mountain Park on Red Hill in Zlatoust

At 7:30 we leave Yekaterinburg towards Chelyabinsk, before reaching which, along the high-speed section of the M5 highway "Chelyabinsk - Moscow", we return towards the city of Miass. We covered a distance of 330 km in about 6 hours, including a stop for lunch in a cafe on the highway. Unfortunately, the section of the road to the canyon, only 3 km long, was covered with snow, and we did not have suitable equipment with us.

Just in case, here are the GPS coordinates for the navigator: 54.868874 59.971545. Here is my description of how to get to the Ustinovsky Canyon: from Miass we go to the highway to the city of Uchaly and go to the village of Chernovskoye. After about 5.5 km, there will be a right turn to the Ryabinushka gardens (here are the coordinates of the beginning of this dirt road: 54.871144, 60.012874). The closer to the attraction, the more it narrows (but in good weather it is passable by any car). The distance from the asphalt road to the rocks is about 3 km.

We sigh that we had to make a small detour and go to Zlatoust, where at first I wanted to take a very beautiful view of the city at the foot of a huge mountain (we are talking about the Two-headed Hill in Taganay Park, which we repeatedly climbed).

I had two points from where I could take this view. I found the first one on Google Maps, just by reading the inscription to the picture, from one of the tourists: “Shot in Zlatoust from Krasnaya Gorka”. Google claims that this is the name of a microdistrict on the outskirts of the city.

We are coming. The road ends at the chapel, and the Two-Headed Hill is nowhere to be seen. But a pleasant sound of bell ringing pours from the tower - there are some sculptures behind the fence. We decide to check out the sights.

Zlatoust, due to its location next to the Taganay National Park, is the center of attraction for tourists from all over the country. Here, for their entertainment, here, on Krasnaya Gorka, they erected something incompatible: a chapel and a monument to Yuri Gagarin. The bell tower was built in 2006, and the monument to the first cosmonaut of the Earth in 2012.

Katya and I wandered around the square, packed up and left for the Black Rock, and now, while preparing a review, I only found out that: firstly, you can climb to the roof of the tower - there is an observation deck with a beautiful view of Zlatoust; secondly, on Krasnaya Gorka, apparently behind the bell tower, there is a mountain park named after Bazhov.

Judging by the photo reports of other travelers, Bazhovsky Park is a pleasant place for a walk with children (many cultural compositions with heroes of fairy tales by the great Ural writer), and there, in clear weather, you can really take a beautiful shot with a telephoto lens with the Taganay mountains hanging over city buildings. Watch the video with the report.

And here is a video with a report on the excursion of Vadim Malkovsky (in the description of the video there is a link to his blog - you can see a detailed photo report on the excursion to the Bazhov Park.

GPS coordinates of the bell tower in Zlatoust: 55.133479, 59.671353.

Coordinates of the mountain park named after Bazhov: 55.134038, 59.669376.

Working hours: from 10:00 to 19:00.

3. Observation deck "Black Rock" in the national park "Taganay"

My passion for weekend trips in the Urals began with a two-day trip to the Taganay Mountains. We have been here twice in summer, twice in autumn, and now in winter (or spring, depending on how you relate to our Ural weather). In the Weekend Hikes section, you can read a detailed guide on how to get there, see a map of routes and a table of distances for walking for one, two or more days.

The last time I visited Taganay was in the fall of 2016. With guests from St. Petersburg and the Baltic States, we came to the Chelyabinsk region to climb the Dvukhlavaya Sopka and marvel at the terrifying failures at the site of titanomagnetite mines (Magnitsky faults). Then we were unlucky with the weather: because of the fog that covered the Black Rock, we were unable to see the bewitching panorama of the Otkliknoy ridge mountain. They hoped that it would be possible to do it now, but in the heavenly office they decided differently ...

Over the year and a half that has passed since the last excursion to the Black Rock, a checkpoint and ticket offices have been set up here. Entrance is now paid: 100 rubles from outsiders, 50 rubles from residents of Zlatoust.

The route to the Black Rock is just right for older tourists and children: it’s only 600 meters to go one way, if you move clockwise, you won’t have to climb the hill anywhere. In a word, relaxation. And the nature here is real: dense, as well as on the main routes of the Taganay park.

I already photographed this “bench with a view to nowhere” on a foggy autumn morning in 2016. Now here is also a view of the Otkliknaya ridge from it is hidden by the natural elements. Perhaps we need to start a tradition: every time I come to the Chelyabinsk region to see the sights, I will photograph this bench.

If you are lucky and there are no other tourists on the Black Rock at the time of your excursion (and for this, I think, you need to come here either early in the morning or late in the evening), such wild views open from the observation deck, somewhat reminiscent of thriller scenes.

When I first started my passion for photography, I thought that it was not interesting to shoot in bad weather: no sun, no picture. Now I understand that bad weather adds drama to the shots. For example, here is a view of the taiga from the top of the Black Rock. There's a response comb somewhere. Now he is gone, only “white flies” ... But is it an interesting frame?

The picture above is a panorama assembled in "photoshop» of 9 vertical frames. Photographed handheld, without a tripod. Here is another panorama shot in the same way.

Having admired the views (in general, I stood at the cliff for about 10 minutes, closing my eyes, and listened to the snowflakes falling), we slowly return to the parking lot. About 200 meters below, another observation deck was built, from which you can already observe the Black Rock itself.

The blizzard got stronger. The snow is already blinding. Mount Black Rock is located at an altitude of 753 m above sea level - the nature here is more severe than below, even in the same Zlatoust. If you are planning your excursion to Taganay, dress warmly and take suitable shoes - it was funny to watch mothers in high heels dragging sleds with kids ...

GPS coordinates for navigator: 55.273583, 59.699077.

Ticket price: 100 rubles per person.

Attraction opening hours: probably around the clock - although I don’t know if there is security there at the end of the working day.

4. Excursions to interesting places in Satka and its environs

According to our travel plan, we wanted to spend the night in Satka, as well as during a trip to the sights of the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria for the May holidays in 2015. Both in the town itself and in its surroundings, there are many interesting places scattered around that are convenient to get to.

Monument to Sergo Ordzhonikidze and the Satka iron-smelting plant

At first I wanted to photograph the monument to Stalin: I read that Satka is one of the few cities where there is such a monument. For some reason, I was sure that the sculpture I needed was standing on the bank of the pond near the Satka iron-smelting plant.

However, I was mistaken, the mustachioed comrade on the pedestal is another well-known revolutionary: Sergo Ordzhonikidze. And Stalin stands (according to information from the Internet) at the address: st. Bocharova, d. 10.

There's some dark history there. On the net, you can find news that a monument to a man whose personality divides Russian society even 66 years after his death used to stand in the village of Taiginka in Kyshtym. But in 2010 it was stolen, and later it “surfaced” in the city of Kasli. And then it was already discovered in Satka.

If I enter the service "Street View" on "GoogleKartakh" and I type the address: Chelyabinsk region, Satka city, Bocharova street, 10 - you can find that the generalissimo is standing in the courtyard of the Zyuratkul complex ("Sonka's Lagoon").GPS- coordinates: 55.038489, 59.030894. I hope that among the readers there will be either residents of the city or tourists who have been there, and in the comments they will tell you where to find Joseph Vissarionovich Stalin now in Satka.

The entertainment complex "Sonkina Laguna" was built by entrepreneur Yuri Titov, who owns the Zyuratkul gas station complex, a hotel and a restaurant. Unusual sculptures from there I have already shown in the report on the May trip to the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria. Then he showed Mysterious Island» - The hollow of an eagle. In winter, it looks even more sinister.

Such a Klondike of interesting places in a single small town in the Chelyabinsk region can be found. I take the last picture of the "Satka iron-smelting plant" and set off to look for the Karagai quarry.

Photo 15. Operating Iron Smelting Plant in Satka. Next to it you can see the monument to Sergo Ordzhonikidze, Vissarion Stalin and Vasily Terkin, "Sonkin Lagoon" and "Eagle's Hollow". Travel report to the Chelyabinsk region from Yekaterinburg. 1/1000, 4.0, 400, 200.

Watch the video showing what the "Sonka's Lagoon" and "Hollow of the Eagle" look like. Only, if you are planning to go there with children, it is better to read the reviews: apparently, the owner of the complex has a very specific sense of humor…

Karagai quarry in Satka

Another place that I wanted to see in this South Ural town is an old, but active, magnesite quarry. Ore was mined here as early as 1900, and now a hole 1.5 km long, 1.1 km wide and 0.37 km deep has been dug.

Reading the stories of tourists, I still did not understand whether it is possible to get there officially, and whether there is an equipped observation deck for visitors. I asked the guys for GPS coordinates, they gave me such a point (55.039167, 58.991928) with parting words: “You will reach Kuibyshev Street, and there you will walk 500 meters.”

At the crossroads of Kuibyshev and 50 years of the VLKSM streets there is a checkpoint (trucks with ore are constantly scurrying behind it) and a garage area. They asked a passer-by if it was possible to get to the observation deck, and he replied: “There, go through the garages,” he waved his hand towards the complex, “There must be a path there.” We go there, but we can’t find the path, and we don’t want to drag ourselves through the snow without special shoes and clothes - it’s waist-deep there.

Yes, and this is what I was wrong about: when you look at the Karagai quarry on satellite maps, it seems that you can safely go to the edge. But in fact, it is surrounded by huge waste heaps up to several tens (if not hundreds) of meters high. We decide to leave the mine for another time, and now we are going to see another interesting sight of Satka - the Hammer and Sickle monument on a hill, standing on the outskirts of the city.

You can see what the Karagai quarry looks like in the video. It's a bit long - see starting at 5:56.

The hammer and sickle monument in Satka is a man-made landmark of the Chelyabinsk region

This miracle is located at the address: Chelyabinsk region, the city of Satka, st. Second River, 15. GPS coordinates: 55.040795, 58.967274. The navigator (on this journey through the South Urals, as always, we used the application on the smartphone Maps.me, which works without an Internet connection) led us again to some garages - they look very colorful.

Photo 16. On the way to the Hammer and Sickle monument in Satka. What interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region can be seen by car. Weekend itinerary. 1/800, 6.3, 400, 280.

We left the car and go up the hill, on which a huge stele rises. From the top, the city is at a glance (more precisely, the microdistrict near the Magnezit recreation center).

Photo 17. Modern graffiti in Satka. How we travel by car in the Chelyabinsk region. Travel itinerary. Report of tourists from Yekaterinburg. Let's go watch Hammer and Sickle. 1/640, 6.3, 560, 280.

A waste heap rises in the distance, encircling the Karagai quarry. When I asked a passerby boy how to get to the observation deck, he pointed to this earthen mountain: “My friends and I always climb there. There is the best view!”

Photo 18. Landscapes of Satka. Report on travel by car to interesting places in the Southern Urals. How we searched for the Hammer and Sickle monument. 1/400, +0.33, 9.0, 800, 165.

I can not find information who and when created this monument. It would be interesting to know the history of this attraction.

Photo 19. The Hammer and Sickle monument in Satka strikes the imagination with its scale and originality. Reviews of tourists about a trip by car to interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region. 1/320, +0.33, 9.0, 400, 86.

While we were admiring the monument, there was no one around at all. Only a lone dog was bewilderedly watching two strange people who came from nowhere to photograph an art object that has long become common to all Satka residents.

Photo 20. One of the local residents of Satka. Reviews of tourists about a trip to interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region. In the vicinity of the Hammer and Sickle monument. 1/1000, +0.33, 3.2, 400, 95.

While the sun has not set, we make another attempt to get to the Karagai quarry by driving around the waste heap. There is also a checkpoint, we did not drive up to it. Instead, they filmed a panorama of the city pond, the Satka iron-smelting plant, and the monument to Sergo Ordzhonikidze. Agree, the view is amazing!

Photo 21. View of the Satka iron-smelting plant. Below is a monument to Sergo Ordzhonikidze. On the right (not included in the frame) - the entertainment complex "Sonkina Laguna". 1/160, +0.67, 8.0, 1250, 70.

This photo was taken approximately from this point: 55.038320, 59.018273.

It's time to look for housing. They called on several ads on Avito and rented an excellent three-room apartment with furniture and necessary equipment for 1400 rubles.

Yes, advice for tourists who want to save money: in our car trips around the Urals, we almost always settle in apartments rented by the day. In hotels it will be more expensive, even if the price of the room is comparable. The fact is that then you have to spend money on going to a restaurant. And in the apartment - and dishes, and a stove, and a microwave. We went to the store, took cereals and sausages - we had an excellent and inexpensive dinner!

A trip to the Porogi tract

We slept well: in each room there was a huge double bed. The morning of March 25, 2018 was like this for me.

Photo 22. Sunrise in Satka (I suspect the Zyuratkul ridge is in the background). Beautiful morning in the Chelyabinsk region. Description of the itinerary of a trip by car in the South Urals for two days. 1/200, -0.67, 8.0, 800, 82.

Today we have two options for the morning: visit the Sokhatka Moose House in the Zyuratkul Nature Park, the Ice Fountain (like the moose farm, it is located in the vicinity of the Sibirka village) and see the Porogi tract. We decide to jump back to the hydroelectric plant first.

The sun has already risen higher. Passers-by rush about their business. I shoot the industrial landscape of the Chelyabinsk region.

Photo 23. Apparently, these are the cooling towers of the Magnezit plant. Review of a trip to the Porogi tract in the vicinity of the city of Satka, Chelyabinsk region. 1/500, 11.0, 400, 200.

The distance from Satka to the Porogi tract is 30 km, half of which you overcome by grader. Despite the fact that yesterday there was a snowfall, it is cleaned well. We get there in 40 minutes, without ceasing to groan from the opening landscapes. Hydroelectric dam GPS coordinates: 55.280900, 59.134433.

Photo 24 This photo is an HDR of three shots taken handheld with a Nikon D610 DSLR + wide Samyang 14mm f/2.8. Settings: 1/1000, -0.67, 8.0, 400, 14.

The Porogi tract is located in a gorge formed by the Chulkov and Uara ridges. The place is very picturesque. True, it’s a little sad here: the building of the ferroalloy plant was flooded with water for a meter, now frozen ... There is a sign on the gate that until 2015 a local resident monitored it for free. Now he is dead and the UNESCO site is on the brink of extinction. The neighboring tourist center "Porogi" is for sale. There is a high probability that soon this attraction will not remain on the map of the Chelyabinsk region ...

Moose House "Sokhatka" and Ice Fountain in Zyuratkul National Park

In the section "Weekend hikes" you can read a report about the ascent in mid-December 2016 to the Zyuratkul ridge. In the same place, I showed a photo report about an excursion to the maral farm "Bear's Joy" (there are both red deer and wild boars) and the Elk House "Sokhatka". The first is at the checkpoint in the village of Magnitsky, the second is at the checkpoint in the village of Sibirka. But then I traveled with friends, my wife did not go. And now she wanted to see with her own eyes both the moose and the fountain.

The house of the elk "Sokhatka" is located on the cordon "At three peaks". You get into it through a checkpoint in the village of Sibirka (you buy a ticket, which is also valid for entry from Magnitsky). On the way to Sibirka (26 km from Satka, and, it seems, 11 km along the grader from the M5 highway), this is the view of Mount Bolshoy Uvan (1122 meters above sea level) - one of the attractions of the Zyuratkul National Park, where walking route.

Photo 25. Mount Bolshoi Uvan in the Zyuratkul National Park is one of the sights of the Chelyabinsk region. Weekend trip by car. 1/640, -0.33, 8.0, 1100, 280.

I forgot to tell you that 2 days before the trip, the news on the federal TV channel showed a report from the Sokhatka Moose House and noted that the moose were already released into the forest in the spring. On the same day, I called the park administration: “No, the elk have not been released yet. Later. True, the Ice Fountain collapsed yesterday ... "Oh, what a pity! This winter he was very tall and handsome in Zyuratkul. I thought I would please you with pictures of this attraction. And so - only ice ruins ...

Photo 26. We arrived at the Ice Fountain in the Zyuratkul park on March 25, 2018, and on March 24, it turned out that it collapsed ... Interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region. Weekend trip to the South Urals.

Although the ice miracle could not resist, we visited it anyway with pleasure. Forest. Sun. Rainbow. Turquoise color of frozen water. Beauty!

Here is a video of what this “icicle” looked like in 2016.

Moose house "Sokhatka" in the Chelyabinsk region

I don’t remember exactly how long it takes to get from the Ice Fountain to the “At Three Peaks” cordon - it seems to be about 5 kilometers. Here we leave the car, pay 50 rubles for feeding the moose and rush to the moose. Tip: take carrots or cabbage from home. You can’t feed animals with bread - they will get sick. Preparing for our tour of the Chelyabinsk region in early March, we bought as many as 5 bags of carrots! Do you know how the moose reacted?

Ugh, we don't eat that. Give us tree bark.

- Yes, children, where do we put this carrot now? We don't have rabbits at home! What to chew on yourself?

- Well, we don't know. Eat yourself.

Photo 27 Bring a gift for its inhabitants with you. Interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region where you can go with children. Road trip route for two days. 1/640, -1.33, 4.0, 400, 31.

- Well, maybe you want cabbage? We took her too. True, not white, but Chinese, for salads.

- Oh, we love this, we do not adhere to any chauvinistic views. Let's! We are ready at least a week to eat only one of her.

Photo 28. Moose in the Chelyabinsk region. Reviews about the trip to the Zyuratkul park. 1/1600, -1.0, 4.0, 400, 44.

Of course, about the carrot - a joke: the moose ate it, there was already a crunch. Only the woman who cares for the animals said that it was better to cut the vegetables smaller.

Photo 29. Moose - they are so cute! A story about a trip to the Sokhatka Moose House in the village of Sibirka. Excursion to the national park "Zyuratkul" of the Chelyabinsk region.

If you are going to the Zyuratkul park, I advise you to read my previous reports. There you can read stories about climbing the Zyuratkul ridge, a description of the route to other peaks. I myself want to someday climb the highest peak of the Chelyabinsk region, Mount Nurgush (height 1406 m). Here is what this hulk looks like from the clearing at the cordon "At the Three Peaks".

Photo 30. What interesting things can be visited in the Chelyabinsk region? Zyuratkul National Park! Climb Mount Nurgush, at the same time see the moose. 1/1250, -0.67, 11.0, 400, 100.

In the Zyuratkul park, you can book a house and stay for a few days. Convenient for true photographers who would like to take a panorama of Nurgush or Bolshoi Uvan during normal hours.

Photo 31. Moose antlers at one of the houses on the cordon "At the Three Peaks" in the Zyuratkul National Park. Description of the itinerary of the day off for a trip through the Chelyabinsk region. 1/4000, -0.67, 280, 135.

Well, the clock is ticking. We still need to have a bite to eat somewhere (we had to go back towards Chelyabinsk - there is a large hotel and restaurant complex "Zyuratkul") and have time to go to the Bashkir village of Idrisovo, in the vicinity of which there is a cave where the national hero of Bashkortostan Salavat Yulaev once hid …

Photo 32. Views at the cordon "At three peaks" in the national park "Zyuratkul". Mount Big Uvan. I can’t imagine how to climb it in winter - with such a slope. But tourists go… 1/1000, 11.0, 4.0, 400, 112.

The video above (13:30) tells about the excursion to the Sokhatka Moose House. And in the video below, you can see in 4K format what expanses open up from the height of Mount Bolshoy Uvan in Zyuratkul Park.

5. Cave Idrisovskaya on the border of the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria

The original travel plan involved visiting three caves located in the area of ​​the beautiful South Ural town of Ust-Katav: Ignatievskaya, Serpievsky cave city (a little further away is the Sikiyaz-Tamak cave complex). Now it has become clear that we will have time to see only one attraction - we chose Idrisovskaya, since the photos from here are the most interesting (as from a palace).

33. A map with a diagram of how to get to the Idrisovskaya cave, which is located on the border of the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria (in fact, it is located on the territory of the neighboring republic).

Let's look at the map. You can get to the village of Idrisovo in the Salavatsky district of Bashkiria along the M5 highway, through Yuryuzan and Ishimbayevo, turning in Sharlash to Kropachevo. We didn't take this route due to the large number of trucks on the road. Although, if I remember correctly, this section is one of the most picturesque: in the Yuryuzan region, you can see the highest mountain in the Southern Urals, Big Yamantau.

If there had been more time, we would have passed through the Satka-Bakal section. Firstly, somewhere on this road there is a view of the Zyuratkul ridge (I saw photo reports with excellent photos). Secondly, in Bakal at 9 Lenina Street (GPS coordinates: 54.937633 58.809672) there is a colorful dilapidated house of miners' culture - like from the Silent Hill game. And, thirdly, 15 km from Satka there is Mount Iruskan, the village of the same name and several quarries. I was interested in Gaevsky and Aleksandrovsky with colored walls. Didn't hit either.

We decided to get to the Idrisovskaya cave along the route "Satka - Mezhevaya - Lakly - Nasibash - Alkino - Idrisovo - Idrisovskaya cave". Please note that in those parts there is still one village of Idrisovo - do not confuse: you need the one that is located near the Yuryuzan River. And besides, on Google maps, for some reason, the Idrisovo tract is indicated (at least, not the village where we ended up). Therefore, here are the GPS coordinates of the village (the point where the car was left): 55.049405, 58.127280. And here is the Idrisovskaya cave: 55.042221, 58.150367.

The road from Satka to Idrisovo is first asphalted, then after 50 kilometers it is unpaved, and it is poorly cleared of snow. It was even uncomfortable to go a little.

But beauty! Somewhere in the Lakla region, you pass a narrow gorge, as if you feel yourself in the Caucasus. Then the hills begin, overgrown with birch groves ... Looking ahead: the navigator took us back to Yekaterinburg either through Vakiyarovo, or through Mezheva, but there the road runs along the river with very, very beautiful rocks. I just want to get out of the car and wander on foot with a backpack through those hills and valleys.

Well, okay, back to the description of the route to the Idrisovskaya cave. After the P242 highway, we turn off at the sign for Idrisovo - 6 km of an uncleaned, but rutted road. We arrive at the village, it stands on the Klyuklya stream.

We were driving on the Maps.me navigator, and in Idrisovo he made us turn left, uphill - there the rutted road ended, then - the path gradually disappearing into a birch grove (here he suggests turning to this point: 55.052705, 58.132084). The cave is 2 kilometers away. At the same time, before the trip, I studied Google maps and remember that you can drive a car directly to the bank of the Yuryuzan River, which means that the aunt from the navigation system is dragging us to the wrong place.

We return back to this intersection (GPS coordinates: 55.049383, 58.127308) and notice an inconspicuous sign "Salavat Cave". The road is covered with snow, only traces of an ATV. We decide to leave the car and go on foot - the same 2 kilometers.

Spring, forest, fresh air. We charge energy batteries again. First, we move along the Klyuklya stream, then we cross the bridge to the other side and sharply climb the hill. Further - the most beautiful section of the trail: on the left - a rock, on the right - a beam, overgrown with a light-bright birch grove, illuminated in a perky spring sun. Somewhere in the sky a raven croaks. The wind blows through the tops of the trees. Titmouse ding like spring. Mmmm, I can only dream of such a walk!

Finally, we go to the beach. Here in the summer - car parking. There are some painted sheds - apparently, in the summer or spring, those tourists who raft down the Yuryuzan River on catamarans make a stop near the Idrisovskaya cave, and the locals organize a “club” and a “car shop” for them.

Where to go is unclear. Something similar to a cave can be seen on the right (this is upstream of the Yuryuzan). But this is definitely not the “balcony” of the Palace (this is also the name of the Idris cave in reports on the Internet).

Photo 34 The views there are beautiful, but the Idrisovskaya cave is behind me. Report on a road trip in the Chelyabinsk region. 1/800, +0.33, 9.0, 400, 44.

We turn to the left of the "houses", we see a boardwalk and some kind of information plate.

Photo 35 From the "houses" go downstream Yuryuzan. Tourists' stories about weekend trips in the South Urals. 1/1000, +0.33, 9.0, 400, 36.

We come closer. The trail goes up steeply (although this is not very conveyed in the pictures). The pointer says that we are in the Yangan-Tau geological park near the Idrisovskaya cave. But I don’t see its characteristic “gates”. We trample in indecision, go down even further downstream - and now, it seems, she!

Photo 36 Reviews about traveling by car on your own. 1/320, +0.33, 9.0, 400, 27.

Photo 37. Entrance to the Idrisovskaya cave and windows ... Reviews of tourists about car trips to the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria. 1/250, -0.67, 9.0, 400, 66.

Climb up the path next to the sign. At a height of 45 meters, such a Palace appears.

Photo 38. Idrisovskaya Cave is also called the Palace. Travel report in the South Urals. Panorama of five handheld vertical shots. 1/320, -0.67, 9.0, 400, 24.

I go inside, and my heart skips a beat with delight: here they are, those views that I dreamed of photographing for so long (I wanted to go to the Idrisovskaya cave 2 years ago, but I stopped the remoteness of this sight of Bashkiria from Yekaterinburg).

Photo 39. Views from the grotto of the Idrisovskaya cave upstream of the Yuryuzan River. Nikon D610 camera, Samyang 14 mm f/2.8 lens. HDR from three frames. 1/250, -0.67, 9.0, 160, 14.

The cave, near Idrisovo (in Bashkiria it is called Iҙris, other names: Krasnopolskaya, Kissyatash, Palace) was described in 1770 by the naturalist and traveler from Germany, Peter Simon Pallas, who served in the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences.

Bashkiria, according to the official historiography of Russia, peacefully reunited with the Russian Empire. Only now the national hero of Bashkortostan Salavat Yulaev is revered for personally leading the capture of the Simsky and Katavsky factories, besieging the Chelyabinsk fortress and Orenburg, burning the fortress in Krasnoufimsk, storming Kungur. So, according to folk tales, Salavat Yulaev and his retinue in 1774 hid from the punitive detachments of Catherine II in the Idrisovskaya cave, which is why it is also called the Salavat cave.

Photo 40. View from the Idrisovskaya cave downstream of the Yuryuzan River. The shot is an HDR of three frames. Nikon D610 camera, Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G lens. 1/50, 8.0, 320, 24.

In the video below, you can see what an excursion with children to the Idris cave looks like in summer.

A narrow hole leads deep into the cave - there, according to tourists, there are two large halls. In general, the length of Kissyatash passages is 93 meters, with an average width of 3.8 meters and a height of 2.6 meters. The amplitude of the moves is 10 meters. The entrance to the cavern is at a height of 45 m above the Yuryuzan level.

Well, the last look at the gorgeous view of the Bashkir nature, and it's time to return to the car that awaits us in Idrisovo.

This ended the fun part of our trip. Looking at the map, we painfully decided which way to return to Yekaterinburg: drive further along the M5 highway towards Ufa and turn in the city of Sim to Yangantau and Mesyagutovo, and then to Krasnoufimsk - there will be pavement guaranteed, but you make a detour. Return to Chelyabinsk and rush home along the two-lane highway - the road in the first section is loaded with trucks.

The Maps.me navigator strongly advises to go north to Novobelokatay and Mikhailovsk. I don’t want to trust him: I remember how the bridge was being repaired in Sima and, in order not to be stuck in traffic jams, I decided to go to Mesyagutovo through Karaidel - then I had to trudge 50 km along the dirt road through the dense taiga.

But the path that the navigation system now offers is the shortest: the distance between the village of Idrisovo and Yekaterinburg is 355 km. Ah, it was - it wasn’t, we risk!

The road for a trip in winter turned out to be quite good: mostly asphalt, 50 kilometers was a grader, but cleaned and without holes (driving 80 km / h). We were already at home at 22:30, that is, we got somewhere in 5.5 hours, and everything that happened to us during these two days began to seem like a fairy tale or a pleasant dream. It is in our power to make these dreams repeat ...

Conclusion to the report on the trip to the sights of the Chelyabinsk region by car

Well, today we have learned what natural and man-made attractions you can see in two days. Now we know how to get to the Black Rock, the Porogi Tract, where to feed the elks and where the Ice Fountain is located. We saw the Idrisovskaya Cave, where the Bashkir field commander Salavat Ilaev spent his days.

Some organizational information:

• Car mileage in two days - 1071 km.
• Diesel consumption at an average of 9.5 liters per 100 km - 102 liters.
• Fuel costs - 4300 rubles.
• Housing costs - 1400 rubles.
• Food expenses - 300-600 rubles at a time for two.

P.S. 1. If you have not yet subscribed to notifications of new blog articles, you can do this through the subscription form below. Not often, but from time to time I will publish other reports, and you will not miss them. Have a good trip and a lot vivid impressions on travel!

P.S. 2. Have you watched the cartoon "Bobik visiting Barbos"? Here is a documentary on the same subject.

Many kilometers of driving on a heavy truck, exhausting crossings, dangerous swamps and rapids of turbulent rivers ... If you are ready to overcome obstacles, the hardships of a long journey, changeable weather, in order to penetrate into protected places hidden from the idle eyes of the inhabitants, then a trip to the Urals is your adventure. If you want to find yourself in a fabulous park 20 minutes after leaving the train, where gems lie under your feet, it is almost impossible to get lost, there are paths that are on the shoulder for both children and adults, then traveling to the Urals is your active holiday.

This amazing region, 2.5 thousand km long, connects the Arctic Ocean and the steppes of Kazakhstan. It is deserted and densely populated, frosty and hot, Asian and European - with an amazing polyphony of natural landscapes, climatic zones, artifacts from different eras.

Subpolar Urals: hike to the highest peaks

The subpolar Urals is one of the most interesting places in the region, which began to be explored by travelers back in the 30s. This harsh region is far from the most visited because of the huge distances, which gives it the potential for high categories of difficulty. The climate here is unsatisfactory.

Most of the tourist routes in the subpolar Urals go through the Inta station. From here, private traders in Ural-vakhtovka cars carry out transfers to mountainous areas, for example, to the Zhelanny shelter (located 136 km from the railway station). You can get to it on the local off-road in 8 hours.

From Zhelanny, where mountain quartz is mined, there are trails to the highest peaks Ural Mountains - Narodnaya (1894), Karpinsky (1878), Manarage (1820). Around them there are many routes with amazing mountain landscapes, ridges and passes, turbulent rivers with many channels. The daredevils try their hand at climbing these peaks, as well as a large number of less high mountains and ridges - Saber, Protection, Unapproachable.

Despite the fact that the passes and peaks have categories no higher than 2A, the totality of obstacles and the length of the route determine its 5th category of difficulty.

After all, to see this northern merciless beauty, you need at least 3 weeks. During this time hikers walk or ski more than 300 km.

Rains, fogs, broken roads, marshy swamps, wide floods of rivers, where even fords - up to the middle of the thigh, and even to the waist - are serious summer tests even for well-trained tourists. In winter, it is easier to pass here, unless, of course, skiers are ready for the trail, which in some parts of their trip to the Urals reaches 80 cm, bitter frosts (up to -45 degrees) and gusty winds.

The most favorable period for summer trekking is the second half of July - the first half of August. But even at the height of summer, the change of weather is frequent: the air temperature can fluctuate from 0 to +20 degrees, drizzling rain can be replaced by a downpour, hail and even a snowstorm. Often there are snowfields and glaciers. In summer, up to 1000 mm of precipitation falls, which reduces the passability of tourist trails.

They usually take place in March and April. During this period, significant temperature differences are also noticeable - from 0 to -45.

On the territory of the Yugyd Va National Park, where these natural attractions are located, travelers can wait out the bad weather in shelters, beams, huts, which are sometimes found on the way. The cost of an overnight stay is 200-250 rubles. per person, although more recently, these structures were free shelters for tourists hiking in the Urals.

The exit from the route, as a rule, is carried out through the Aranets pass and the village of Aranets, from where on foot or by boat (by agreement with the locals) you can get to the village of Kontsebor. Goes here 2-3 times a week. public transport(bus) to the city of Pechora or you can catch a ride. Travel time is about 2.5 hours.

There is another “entry point” to the tourist route along the subpolar Urals - the city of Vuktyl, which is popular with water tourists.

Keep in mind! Despite the fact that on the official website of the park "Yugyd Va" tourists are urged to issue a special permit and pay for every day of their stay on its territory, such rent has been repeatedly recognized as illegal by the court and the prosecutor's office. The latest decision of the Vuktyl City Court of the Republic of Komi entered into force on August 6, 2012 and was published on October 24, 2012 in the Siyaniye Severa newspaper.

The activities of the national park "Yugyd Va" are increasingly commercialized every year. And today its management offers services for organizing the transfer of cars, water and by air(by helicopter), publishes and distributes printed and souvenir products, collects fees for the use of shelters, etc. The NP offices are located in the cities of Inta, Pechora, Vuktyl.

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Journey through the Northern Urals: through the Dyatlov Pass to Bolvany Mansi

A trip to the northern Urals is interesting not only for those who are attracted by hard-to-reach places far from civilization, the absence of cities and towns nearby, in general, game and wilderness.

Here is the legendary pass, where in 1959, under unclear and mysterious circumstances, the Dyatlov tourist group tragically died. Today it is called the Dyatlov Pass. And the highlight of these places is the mysterious Manpupuner Plateau with its majestic Mansi Dumplings, whose height is from 30 to 42 meters.

There are also many tourist routes in the Northern Urals in this area. They come here from both Europe and Asia. After all, the Urals is the border of the continents.

In summer, the most convenient (but by no means budget - about 18 thousand rubles for a boat for 6 people) transfer along the Pechora River, usually organized groups deliver it this way. This route is offered by the directorate of the Pechoro-Ilychsky Reserve, on the territory of which the plateau is located. It is designed for 6 days, starts from Troitsko-Pechersk, from where the participants are taken to the pier (60 km) for a separate fee. This journey through the northern Urals includes, in addition to 200 km. waterway, also 66 km. walking distance to and from Manpupuner. Most of it is occupied by a rather tedious road.

Anyone who wants to make a full-fledged hiking or ski trip to the northern Urals chooses the path that lies from the Ivdel railway station, where the Moscow-Priobye train runs.

From Ivdel, a transfer was arranged to the Auspiya River. Then they go skiing or walking up the river to the Dyatlov Pass, which is located on the Belt Stone Ridge. On the pass there are commemorative plaques reminiscent of the tragic events of 1959.

From here you can go down to the source of the great Pechora River, which in these places is still a stream winding in the taiga forest, and make a radial on the Manpupuner plateau.

If you return the same way, it will be the shortest trip to these sacred places. But it will also take 10 days because of the long distances - about 200 km. And the routes here can be laid for every taste and almost any category of difficulty from 2 to 5.

Keep in mind! Even before the start of your journey through the Urals, you need to issue a pass to the Pechoro-Ilychsky Reserve. This must be done in advance by sending an application by fax or e-mail to the directorate at least two weeks before the trip. The cost of 1 day of stay on its territory in the summer of 2012 was 650 rubles. You can pay for the pass by transferring money to the account of the reserve.

Although, many tourists prefer an alternative option - paying a fine of 1000 rubles. in place. After all, the number of passes is limited, and on the dates of stay in the reserve indicated in the application, you can simply “not get there”, for example, due to bad weather.

South Ural: Taganay National Park

Taganay - mountain ranges and a national park near Zlatoust, which, in comparison with the wild expanses of the subpolar and northern Urals, seems to be chamber. However, its area is 568 sq. km, allows you to explore interesting tourist routes in the Urals.

The central entrance to the Taganay Park is located, literally, a 10-minute bus ride or half an hour walk from the railway station, in the village of Pushkin.

You can also enter its territory from Miass, Magnitogorsk or Karabash. If you have a GPS navigator or you read the map well, then you can walk around Taganay without guides. It is much easier to do this in winter than in summer. There are no swamps. Streams and lakes are frozen. Lots of well-trodden blizzard roads.

Taganay is several mountain ranges of which the highest is Big Taganay and its dominant, the highest point of the park is Kruglitsa (1112). A strong wind creates amazing forms of snow here.

Fanciful rock outcrops in the Valley of Fairy Tales, Otklyuchnaya ridge, the vertical walls of which echo every spoken word, the weather station on the top of the Dalniy Taganay ridge (1114), from which an unprecedented view opens - these and other picturesque landscapes can be seen while moving on foot or on skis.

There are many category routes 1B-3A in the Taganay National Park for experienced tourists who can put up tents in specially designated places equipped with firewood.

For lovers of "walking" recreation, families with children, 60 km of marked trails and 6 equipped shelters are laid, located at a distance of 7 to 24 km from each other. So hiking in the southern Urals can be done with unprecedented convenience.

Overnight in the houses is paid, from 400 rubles. per person per day, depending on the season and the degree of comfort (although it is very conditional). Also, money is charged for setting up your tent, using the equipped trails and picnic areas with barbecues, etc. In general, the degree of commercialization is rather big, although the entrance to the territory and being in the Taganay National Park is free.

The well-trodden paths, a large number of visitors in winter and summer, can scare away lovers of deaf corners and deserted outskirts. But for those who, yet, are not ready for difficult autonomous distances of hundreds of kilometers or whose team includes small tourists, this is a great option - a trip to the southern Urals with a minimum of risk and load.

The Sokoliy stone rock, which is located in the Sverdlovsk region between two settlements - Krasnoyar and Zyuzelsky, is not as visited by tourists as other natural attractions of the Urals. Oh, in vain journey here can be unforgettable. It is also quite often confused with Falcon Stone near Severka. But it has nothing to do with this stone.

Journey through Russia: rock Sokoliy stone

Having decided to start a trip to Russia and find yourself in the Urals, you should take the time to visit the Sokoliy stone rock. This rock received such a poetic name, most likely, because of the large number of falcons that lived in these places. And the toponymist Matveev A.K. suggested that she was so named because of her beauty, and she was personified with a falcon.

Indeed, the rock itself is very beautiful and picturesque. Its height is 514 meters. It has rocky outcrops that can be well displayed even via satellite. They are located at a distance of about 500 meters from each other, and the height of each such ledge is on average 20 meters.

Falcon stone and interesting places around it

The views that open up on the Sokolye stone are breathtaking. There is very good visibility here. Moreover, there are very interesting places in Russia near this rock, which, by the way, are not far from it. So you can visit them too. From the top you can see Mount Shunut, and on the other side you can see the peaks of Mount Azov. The beautiful rock White Stone is located a little further along the way.

A mixed forest of young trees grows on the rock, there are clearings left over from clearing. The places are picturesque. It is especially beautiful here at the end of summer, autumn holidays in these places are like a fairy tale, when the leaves change their color. There are practically no signs of a person here, so you feel the freedom of being away from civilization. The Kuzikha River flows next to the rock, which is a tributary of the Revda River.

How to get to Falcon Stone

The Sokoliy stone rocks are located between the villages of Zyuzelsky and Krasnoyar. The road to this place is quite difficult, so be sure to use a map or navigator. Otherwise, you may not go there. Usually the route starts from Krasnoyar. To get to this village, you need to take a bus from Yekaterinburg to Revda, and from there to Krasnoyar.

From this village you will need to overcome 12 kilometers to the destination. First you need to go to the Revda River, then cross the bridge (do not cross the river!) And keep to the left road at the fork. Soon the Falcon Stone will appear, from which it is not far from the White Stone and the Azov Mountain, and after that you can go to the village of Zyuzelsky.