How to properly make jigs for pike in winter. The right pole for pike fishing in winter. Video materials. Wooden base construction

Depending on the season and, accordingly, fishing conditions, summer ones are distinguished, intended for use in open water, and winter, used from ice, girders. Their equipment differs little and consists of one and a half ten meters of fishing line, a sinker, and a leash with a hook. The fundamental difference can be traced only in the design of the base.

After freezing, the girder is perhaps the only tackle that gives at least some guarantee of catching pike. As a result, there is a huge variety of winter gear of this kind. There are a huge variety of ice fishing supplies on the market, but real fishermen prefer to make them themselves.

Do-it-yourself classic winter vent

Components:

• signaling device;
• reel bracket;
• the coil itself;
• rack stand;
• equipment;

Manufacturing.

1. Make the stand yourself from a tube or metal corners.
2. Reel bracket It is recommended to make bicycle wheels from spokes. All corners of the structure must be straight.
3. The coil is made of polystyrene foam(the wooden version absorbs moisture and swells). To be able to quickly detect its rotation and react in a timely manner to a bite, one half is painted in a bright color.
4. The signaling device is made from a piece of steel wire. One end is attached to the stand, the other, free, is equipped with a bright flag. Being folded into a kind of loop, the guard will stop the reel.
5. Equipment is attached to the reel described above.

When the pike takes the bait, the alarm will be released and the flag will shoot up. You must respond to a bite immediately. Otherwise, the fish may drag the tackle under the ice, and then it will be left with the trophy, not you.

Modernized classic version of the zherlitsa

Components:

• base with a slot for fishing line;
• signaling device;
• coil bracket;
• coil;
• equipment;

Manufacturing:

1. Round base It is made from solid types of foam plastic, less often - plywood. Its diameter should correspond to the diameter of the hole (or ice drill, which is actually the same thing).
2. The reel is made as in the case of a classic girder. It is customary to attach it to the bracket using threaded connections.
3. The signaling device is made in the same way, but is screwed to the base with a self-tapping screw.
4. A slot is made in the base for passing equipment.
5. The equipment described above attached to the reel.

When fishing, the alarm goes behind the reel and stops it. When a bite occurs, the reel begins to rotate and the alarm flag “shoots.” The modernized version protects against the risk that the tackle will be dragged under the ice. In addition, in this case the hole does not freeze much longer.

Reel "spatula"

Popular zherlitsa, consisting of:

• round polystyrene stand with a slot for equipment;
• racks;
• At the end of the stand, a signaling device with a reel is mounted on a hinge;

The signaling device has an external resemblance to a spatula equipped with a wooden handle. When prepared, it is secured with an elastic band. The “handle” is painted orange. When a pike takes it, the alarm is installed vertically, and the unfixed fishing line begins to unwind.

Equipment

As a rule, regardless of the type of structure, vents are equipped with a minimum of elements:

• 12- or 15-meter fishing line;
• leash;
• hook: it can be a tee, a double, or even a single hook - it all depends on the fishing conditions and the taste of the fisherman;
• a stop pellet located in front of the start of the leash;
• sliding sinker;

Let's look at them in more detail:

1. Fishing line it is worth choosing from a number of durable monofilaments, designed to catch the trophy for which you are going to the pond. An important property is the absence of a memory effect. When using coils, this is of decisive importance. A diameter of 30-40 mm is quite suitable for most anglers. However, it makes sense to use a thicker line if you are confident of catching something more serious. Under no circumstances should you equip your lanyards with braided wire - when fishing, the cord can cause serious damage.
2. Choosing a leash – a separate topic. The material for it can be:
   
   • braided fishing line;
   • fluorocarbon;
   • strings;
   • steel;
   • tungsten;
   • driving material;
   • titanium;
   • Kevlar;
   • etc. Each angler chooses what he finds worthy of his attention, keeping in mind that metal leashes can scare away cautious pike, and fluorocarbon ones cannot survive an encounter with its teeth.
3. The main requirement for hook - so that it is sharp. The size depends only on the mass and dimensions of the live bait. In places where snags are possible, it makes sense to give preference to single ones.
4. Stop pellet allows you to adjust the position of the sinker, thereby controlling the freedom of live bait.
5. As a sinkerIt is customary to use a sliding olive. Its weight in most cases falls within the range from 5 to 15 grams. It is determined primarily by the size of the bait and its mobility, as well as depth and current. It is intended to keep live bait in the area of ​​expected bite and prevent its attempts to move into cluttered areas and tangle the tackle. Refrain from over-loading. This will not only quickly exhaust the baitfish, but can also scare away the predator that has pecked and suddenly experienced excessive weight.

Types of winter girders

subglacial vents

Winter gear has 2 main types:

1. Under-ice supplies, checked periodically:
   
   • Saves the fisherman's time and effort.
   • They are best suited to be left overnight. To avoid the line breaking when the ice covering the hole is broken, the section of the equipment located in the place of expected freezing is made of a metal leash or wire.
2. Girders that place ice directly on the surface, equipped with a signaling flag. Use during daylight hours. This variation prevents the hole from freezing.

Making summer girders

Classic summer vest

To make a simple but effective summer zherlitsa you will need:

• slingshot;
• fishing line;
• the sinker, as a rule, is sliding;
• triple/double hook and leash for it;
• devices for securing gear on the shore;

The fishing line is tied to the slingshot and wound crosswise. It contains a sinker, a leash with a hook and, in some cases, a float. Live bait is attached to the hook. After this, the tackle is attached on the shore to the branches of trees or bushes hanging over the pond, and to a special pole. If desired, the pole can be placed in the water.

Jerky from a bottle

Even if you are not properly prepared for catching pike, there is an opportunity to make up for lost time on the pond. A half-liter bottle is best suited for making a zherlitsa.

Manufacturing:

1. Several meters of nylon thread are attached to the bottle and reel it in.
2. The thread is fixed using an elastic band.
3. A sinker is placed on the thread and a leash with a hook.
4. To improve visibility It is useful to paint the bottle in a bright color.

Such girders are installed and checked using a boat.

Good to remember

When creating a rig, it’s a good idea to imagine the sequence of a pike’s attack on live bait.

It happens in 2 stages:

1. A predator grabs its prey, while rushing several meters forward.
2. By extinguishing the movement by inertia, the pike stops, unfolds the prey and swallows it from the head.

The bite will be interrupted and completed at the first stage if the pike:

1. Felt resistance from the gear caused by an excessively large load or a small supply of fishing line.
2. Pricked herself with the free hook of a tee, embedded in the back of the bait, when cast.

Thus, the reserve length of the tackle and the correct selection of lead olive, as well as the correct placement of the stop pellet, can be of decisive importance. These details cannot be taken lightly and require detailed elaboration.

Due to the caution of the fished object, the question arises about the method of baiting with live bait. The simple and popular among avid bait fishers, the “by the back” method, is not recommended not only for the reason described earlier, but also due to the damage caused to the bait and causing it to quickly fall asleep.

It would be optimal to retract the gill cover, bring the leash out through the mouth and only then attach the hook to it. In this case, its tip will be directed towards the tail of the fish and will not interfere with the pike swallowing the bait.

1. Several leashes on one rig. If the quantity and, what is important, the variety of live bait allows, you can use a tackle with 2 or more leashes. With its help, it is possible to fish different horizons and increase the chance of catching pike.
2. The worse the bite, the thinner the tackle. For picky fish, it is preferable to offer live bait on more delicate leashes and single hooks.
3. In a strong current - a heavy sinker.
4. Mask winter items at night. To do this, just cover the hole and fill it with snow.

SHOW

COLLAPSE

Do you like to catch pike? How often do you catch it in winter? Many people are ready to sit for hours on the shore of a reservoir waiting for prey and not catch anything. But you want results... There is a way, in addition to active fishing, to get a pike and increase the chances of success several times - by installing a girder. It is a tackle for passive fishing. You can even make it yourself. Let's see what options for pike fishing rods our fishermen have invented.

The main classification divides zherlitsy into summer and winter options. It should be immediately noted that winter fishing has become much more widespread. Camouflage is one of the key conditions - the forests must blend in color with the water, the hook must be pressed tightly against the bait and be white.

There are two types of vents - those that are installed on the ice, and those that are installed with an under-ice forest clearer.

A small twig, which is mounted near the hole, is the basis for the simplest ice vent. A fishing line is attached to it. Various small materials - a branch or a piece of cloth - serve as a signal that the fish has grabbed the bait. This design is always installed on top of a drilled hole.

A fishing line with a hook and a leash is attached to a reel. The live bait is placed on the hook, after which it is lowered into the hole. Next, the flag is bent under the coil, so that it does not allow it to take a vertical position. After the fish grabs the bait, the line stretches and the reel begins to rotate - only then does the flag become vertical. The time has come to hook the predator - this is done so that the hook is securely attached to the pike.

Zherlitsa with underwater forest clearer

The peculiarity of this design is that there is no bite alarm, and therefore fishing of this type refers to passive fishing. As a forest clearer, you can use a splintered wood bag. The scaffolding is wound around it and lowered under the ice.
The good thing about the type of fishing described above is that the part of the fishing line that is not used at the forest clearer will not freeze. Regardless weather conditions The forest supply will be in full combat readiness. Of course, the lack of signaling about caught fish is a significant design flaw.

Several options for do-it-yourself winter vents

Option No. 1 - classic

• The gatehouse's guardhouse;
• Reel holder;
• Gear stand;
• Coil.

Winter modification

1. Drinking mineral water? Great - take two of these bottles and cut them crosswise, the main thing is that they are different in shape.
2. When trying on, the upper part of one plastic bottle must be placed on the lower part of the other.
3. Using an awl, you need to make a hole in the top of the bottle (in the cork) and make two more holes in the neck - this will be needed when you tie the fishing line. Also make a hole in the center of the bottom of the bottle.
4. The next stage is assembling the vent. You will need fishing line and cord - thread the fishing line into the bottom of the bottle - this way you will construct the upper part of the future girder. In order for you to be able to hang the rope on a stick above the hole, you need to make a loop on the fishing line on one side and tie a knot on the other.
5. Pass the fishing line into the upper part of the bottle through the cork - the lower part of the vent is obtained. Step back about twenty centimeters from the knot and make another exactly the same knot.
6. The next step is to secure the working line to the two holes. Wrap the required amount of it with a sinker and a tee, insert the lower part of the vent into the upper one.

At this point the girder is ready. When the bait is grabbed, the lower part of the rod will definitely fly out of the upper one. For convenience, we recommend painting the top and bottom parts with different colors. The advantage of this design is its simplicity and low cost.

Catching pike in winter on girders is the most popular look fishing for predators in winter period. It is much more catchy than trolling or fishing with a jig, and installing the gear at several points around the angler allows you to increase the catch many times over.

In this article, we will analyze the nuances of assembling a girder, show the correct equipment, the technology for attaching live bait and, of course, the technique for landing pike.

The most successful time for fishing for pike in winter is fishing in the first and second the last ice. During this period of the fishing season, the fish are active in search of prey, travel long distances and it is easier for them to find live bait, which we offer with our bait.

Types of girders for winter pike fishing

At the beginning of 2020, fishermen created 3 types of similar gear, differing both in the type of placement on the ice and in the equipment. In use different types Zherlits can be found both positive and negative sides. Let's figure out which varieties are better.

Platform

This type of girder has a flat square base; in its standard form, each side of the base is 25 centimeters. Variations of bases in the form of round and rectangular shapes are often found. The material that makes up the platform is plastic, less often wood.

The hole is placed with a platform directly above the hole. Installation here is the simplest, all you have to do is sprinkle it with snow so that the wind doesn’t blow it away.

Pros:

• The sun does not fall into the hole, which means the fish are not afraid of light rays.
• The water in the hole is protected from the wind by the platform of the girder, which means the water in the hole will freeze more slowly. As a result, the line is wound and unwound without inconvenience.
  

Minuses:

• Big size.
• Weak coil attachment. (This is a common cause of failure of store-bought vents, so careful inspection is required before purchasing.)
• There are often cases when the platform freezes into ice, and without damaging the vent, it can be very difficult to remove it from the shackles of the ice.
• The poles, although wide, are low, which is very inconvenient in conditions of heavy snowfall, since it can simply be covered with snow, then you have to buy signal poles.
• Provided that the air temperature is below – 10° C, the girder will not save the fishing line from freezing in the ice.

Editor's Choice– platform girder. Easy to find in the store, easy to install, and the disadvantages are insignificant.

On one pole

This type of girders is less expensive, however, they have more disadvantages compared to platform ones:

• Snow is required during installation. If there is one, then the vent is fixed in a pile of snow above the hole, this guarantees the stability of the structure.
• The stands are usually made of metal, which allows your hands to quickly freeze in extreme cold.
• It often falls in the sun, especially during thaws, as the metal heats up and the pile of snow under the vent melts.
• There is no possibility to install the vent on pure ice, plus the open hole is slowly becoming covered with ice.

Taganok (tripod design)

There are also rigs called “Taganok” - usually an aluminum tripod with a reel, but there are also plastic models. There is a signal pole.

• The zherlitsa is convenient in terms of transportation and, perhaps, this is the only plus.
• Unstable both in the wind and when biting.
• The coil is not secured by anything and the metal itself is easily deformed.
• Hands freeze very quickly in winter in severe frost.
• Often the leg clamps freeze to the ice because water gets on them, after which it is almost impossible to disassemble the girder without damage.
• On plastic girders, when a pike bites, the legs often fold, and as a result, the girder sinks.

Choosing a priest

A plastic reel is better than a metal one. The fishing line will not freeze to it.

Coil. A huge advantage will be a reel made of plastic (so that in severe winter frost you can hold it with bare hands), with a somewhat difficult movement (otherwise a “beard” will be ensured in case of a sharp bite). The main thing is that the movement of the reel is not too difficult, otherwise the fish will feel resistance and release the bait. There should be plenty of space for fishing line to fish at great depths.

Bite alarm. Choose a bright flag (red, orange or bright green) and large. A signaling device 45-55 centimeters long will provide a greater visibility range of the bite. The elasticity of the alarm should be average in order to withstand the jerks of live bait and respond in time to a pike bite.

For night fishing, use fluorescent flags. They will allow you to quickly determine whether a fish has bitten or not using the light of a flashlight.

Choose a bright flag so that it can be seen from afar

TIP: the gasket located between the coil itself and the nut pressing it allows you to correctly adjust the rotation of the coil. When properly configured, the reel should make 5-6 revolutions and stop.

Correct rigging

• fishing line
• sliding sinker
• sinker stopper
• swivels with clasps
• leash
• tee

You can see the diagram of the girder in the following photo:

Winter vent installation diagram

Assembling such a girder is not difficult at all; the whole trick is in the correct selection of components, planting live bait and choosing a location. More on all this later.

fishing line To catch pike on a winter line, it must be monofilament and elastic, so that after unwinding from the reel it does not collapse with a spring. It is not advisable to use braided line because, firstly, it is thinner than regular fishing line, which means you can cut your fingers when fishing for fish, and secondly, it freezes quickly.

Number of fishing line: 17-21 m. Thickness: 0.35-0.45 mm, which will allow you to catch large fish.

To create mass, a sliding sinker-olive is usually used. It’s great if it’s oblong, but other shapes can also be used.

Since the sinker is necessary to hold the baitfish at a certain depth and so that it cannot swim into cover, select the weight depending on the calculated fishing depth and the size of the baitfish.

A sinker that is too heavy will reduce the number of pike caught, since it, feeling resistance, will spit out the bait, and a sinker that is too light will allow the bait to either go deeper into the shelter on its own, or it will swim throughout the entire reservoir.

The correct mass will be from 7 to 12 grams at shallow depths, and from 17 to 22 grams in deep water bodies.

Switch to rubber fishing stops. Reliable and convenient.

The sinker stopper is lead shavings or a piece of rubber., used in float fishing with a sliding float. The stopper allows you to regulate the movement of the sinker along the fishing line, and the “freedom” of the live bait is adjusted accordingly. And also with the use of a swivel, the sinker does not break on the swivel.

The hook is a tee or double on reservoirs without a current, or a single hook for fishing in a current. You will need hooks of different sizes. It depends on the size of the baitfish and the intended prey.

Based on the results of repeated observations, it was noticed that the most commonly used tees are sizes 5-8, Russian numbering. Doubles are used with different hooks, where live bait is attached to the smaller one, while the larger one is left for the predator.

Tee hooks

Leash It’s best to use a double line, since it can still bite through one, but don’t bite through the other, which will allow you to successfully catch a pike. You should not use a steel leash, as it still reduces the number of bites, because it is stiffer, which means the pike will feel it and, as a result, spit out the bait more often.

It’s not difficult to make such a leash yourself:

1. A fishing line about 70 centimeters long is taken, from which a loop is knitted, which will serve as a leash.
2. The loop is knitted as follows: the end of the fishing line, the length you have chosen, is folded in half, after which the rounded end is threaded into the resulting loop 4-5 times so that the loop does not get pulled together, after which, holding the place where the free end of the fishing line is located, it is tightened loop, the knot is slowly adjusted to the free end of the fishing line.
3. The remaining tip is removed with the flame of a lighter or match. The main thing is not to burn through the main line that holds the loop. Such a node is called surgical.
4. A fastener is attached under the loop knot, and a hook is attached to the opposite end.

This leash can be purchased at the store. Fast and convenient!

How to bait live bait

There are two most popular ways of making money:

• through the operculum
• through the back

It is inserted through the operculum as follows: a leash is inserted through the gills of the baitfish so that it comes out of the mouth, where the tee is subsequently attached.

This method is used most often in cases where the girder is left overnight. Thus, the pike swallows the bait and calmly swims away with it, after which even if it swallows it, it feels the fishing line and begins to spit it out, the tee will firmly catch on in it and the pike will not go anywhere.

Just make a longer leash, since the pike will swallow the bait completely, which means it can also swallow the leash when it reaches the main line. It won’t be difficult for pike to bite through the main line overnight.

There are two mounting options through the back:

1. Between the upper edge of the baitfish's body and the spine. With this bait bait will remain alive longer and will be more mobile than baited with the second method.
2. Under the spine. If you do not hit the nerves and do not damage the vertebral body, then the baitfish will be active and mobile, but if one of these elements is damaged, then you can not hope for its mobility, as well as for its long existence.

How to choose live bait

A small perch is an excellent live bait, as it is able to remain alive and very active on a hook for a long time in cold water. Pre-prepared roach and bream will be less productive. Live bait should not be large. Usually no more than 10 centimeters. Such live bait is more attractive to pike and more mobile in the water column.

Small perch is the best live bait for catching pike

Fishing technique

Follow the instructions:

• Choose a location;
• Hook up some live bait;
• Launch it into the water;
• Secure the girder, tighten the fishing line and secure the alarm.

The alarm is adjusted so that at the moment of a bite it indicates this, but so that it does not react to the twitching of live bait. After completing the adjustments, just wait for the bite. As soon as the alarm goes up, hook it. After hooking, pull it out of the hole. If the hole is too small and the fish does not fit into it, release the fish a little and drill your hole, after which you can safely pull out the predator.

Sometimes the pike hooks itself, since it doesn’t feel much resistance, which means it freely swallows the bait.

If the pike does not bite, but you are sure that it is in this area, then feed this place with store-bought or homemade bait or winter bite activators .

Choosing a fishing spot

Places next to the snag - a good place to find pike

In winter, it is best to fish in familiar areas, where the fishing sites are probably known. Otherwise, the chances of success are reduced. But don't despair, there are universal tips.

It is best to look for pike near a snag, close coastline near thickets of reeds or reeds.

The bulk of fish after the first ice is in shallow water. These are mainly depths from 40 to 60 centimeters. Later, when the ice crust becomes thicker, the fish move to deep water. At this time, it is best to catch pike in the edges and flooded ravines.

It often happens that great depth Oxygen-poor zones are formed, which indicates that there will be no fish in them. If it is noticed that the baitfish is dying quickly, then it probably falls into such a zone. In such cases, fish at half-water.

A very promising place for fishing will be the transitions between pits. In such places, pike will be caught throughout the season.

After choosing a location, we begin installation. The first pike exits start at 8:30, therefore, the lures should be in position by this time. The main thing is not to make too much noise while drilling holes, otherwise you can scare away all the fish.

Install some of the vents in shallow water, and some in deep water. Thus, you can “test” the reservoir for the presence of pike.

It is important to remember that any place cannot be unpromising. If you know the bottom of the reservoir and the choice of location is on a slope, then you need to place it both in the upper part of the slope and in the lower part. On lakes and ponds, girders are usually placed along the shore, not far from thickets of coastal grass.

The vents are usually installed at a distance of 6-8 meters from each other. The order of placement will not matter.

Instructions:

The bait must first be installed on the bottom of the reservoir, and only if the live bait often dies, fishing should be carried out at half-water. To check the depth, lower the fishing line and sinker installed on the rig into the water until the sinker touches the bottom. And remember that below the sinker is a leash. This means that it is important to wind the reel to the length of the leash. This length of the fishing line will be the depth of the reservoir in the selected location. After checking, you can attach live bait, if there is one, or go after it to catch it.

Important: after attaching the bait, screw the reel 2-3 turns to keep the bait above the underwater vegetation and it cannot tangle the fishing line, or simply hide from the pike.

On warm days, or with the onset of thaws, or during low pressure, the pike usually rises to the middle of the reservoir or to its very top. It will be especially productive to place live bait in mid-water at lunchtime.

If, since the girder was recorded, there have been no bites over the next 1-2 hours, then the girders are moved to a neighboring place 20-25 meters from the previous fishing spot. If in one of the places the pike began to take live bait, then next to it, 2-3 meters away, you can drill another hole and set the same depth.

If pike fishing is carried out in very cold weather and the trap is not equipped with a flat base, then it is necessary to cover the hole to prevent it from freezing. This can be done using cardboard, paper, a piece of plywood or any other material that can cover the hole hole. If you don’t have anything at hand, you can sprinkle the hole with snow.

It will not be superfluous to cover the hole in normal sunny weather, without severe cold, so that the pike is not frightened by the light rays passing through the holes.

Features of hooking and fishing

There are several aspects to successfully hooking and landing a pike. Don’t do the hook right away, give the pike a little time to swallow the bait, otherwise, when trying to hook, the pike may open its mouth and the hook will freely come out of it.

After successful hooking keep the line tight, but not too tight. If you give up the slack, the pike can go into the grass or snags, and as a result, the line can get tangled. If the tension of the line is too strong, you can break the line, firstly on the sharp teeth of the pike, and secondly on the edge of the ice in the hole. It is worth remembering that fishing is done with your fingers.

Pike up to 1.5 kilograms can be pulled out immediately, as it will not offer much resistance. When bringing the pike to the hole, the beam will use a hook. If this is not the case, then you can gradually, either release or drag the pike to the hole. After 4-5 such manipulations, the pike will enter the hole itself.

There is one trick to fishing for pike: when you feel that the pike is large and there is a high possibility that it will bite the fishing line, simply release the fish a little, not allowing the fishing line to weaken, and then smoothly slow down the fish by pulling the fishing line towards you. Thus, the fishing line, being on the edge of the mouth, closer to the body, will catch on the so-called “whisker” and after that the pike can be pulled towards you without fear that it will rub its teeth on the fishing line. And the pike moves easier - it makes fewer strikes.

Fishing on the edges

When fishing on the edges, keep live bait at a depth of 0.1-0.5 m from the bottom. In river beds, the depth can be halved.

What to do if the slope is shallow?

If the slope is gentle, then let the baitfish immediately sink to the maximum depth, that is
you need to know the location of the holes in the reservoir or use the “poke” method to look for depth.

Many types of industrial and homemade girders are installed on ice in winter. Each design has its adherents, but the methods of pike fishing are the same. The main thing is to choose the right place and collect the gear.

Fishing device and methods

Regardless of the type, each vent is equipped in the same way. The cross-section of the main scaffold is 0.3–0.6 mm. The outlet leash is attached to it using a swivel. A self-made guitar string leash will be reliable. The industry produces leashes made of Kevlar, steel, and tungsten. When catching small pike, you can use monofilament line.

Let's take a closer look at the production of the most popular vents in a home workshop.

Making an over-ice vent with a flat base

Summer is a time for passive pike, suffering from heated water. Here, as in the period of deep winter, only garrisons can activate the predator.

Instructions for making a summer zherlitsa yourself

There are many varieties of summer zherlitsa. Technological processes have been developed for the manufacture of circles, gear from sewer pipes, etc. We will analyze the manufacture of the simplest coastal girder and gear for fishing from a boat or wading.

The winter shelter is arranged quite simply, even somewhat primitively. It can be built while fishing directly, but it is best to go fishing prepared.

Various materials can be used to make the girder. It basically consists of a wooden or metal stand, 30 cm long, with its lower ends pointed to make it easier to stick into the ice.

Also an integral part of the design of the girder is a reel with 15-20 m of strong fishing line.

A signaling flag is attached to the top of the rack. This is the simplest and most common design.

There are also many other good and functional options. For example, the reel can be mounted not on a vertical stand, but on a plastic or wooden platform, which must be installed on top of the hole, covering it like a lid.

For beginners, as well as perhaps already experienced “veterans”, when creating a winter zherlitsa, the tips and recommendations on how to make a winter zherlitsa, which are given below, will certainly be useful.

The pike first grabs the prey with its mouth, and then moves away with it and swallows the prey completely. So the main advantage of fishing both with winter girders and with mugs is their design, which allows a pike or pike perch to take live bait in its mouth and move away with it while the fishing line unwinds freely.

There is a method of fishing with live bait - when the bait is simply tied to a plastic bottle and the line does not have the opportunity to unwind, the pike also takes it, but in this case there are more escapes. If, when the flag is triggered, the line twitches or a sound is made, this may scare the pike and it will spit out the bait, but as a rule, the flag is attached to the reel and is triggered by turning the reel, causing vibrations and sound.

The vent is installed for a long time, you have to move away, the factory vent can simply be stolen. The solution is the right girder, made with your own hands, cheap and recognizable.

To make a girder you will need:

• wooden block 14x15x350 mm
• factory coil
• self-tapping screw 25 mm
• store-bought flag 450 – 500 mm
• equipment (line, weight, leash, hook)
• wire or nails
• bicycle tire scraps

We attach a fishing line reel to a wooden block at a distance of 70-80 mm from the upper end using a self-tapping screw; the reel should have a free play of 2-3 mm.

At a distance of 15 mm from the top edge, we drive two staples approximately 15 mm long into the block. The distance between the staples should be slightly larger than the width of the flag spring.

We cut the bicycle tire crosswise into strips 10 mm wide; you will need 3-4 strips. We put these strips, twisted in half, on the upper end of the bar; you can additionally put them in the area between the coil and the staples, then the flag will be more stable. It’s better to have several rubber bands; one may break while fishing.

We select equipment for winter fishing depending on the fishing conditions.

Universal equipment for pike and zander:

• fishing line 0.2 – 0.3 – 10 meters
• weight 7-10 grams
• hook number 8, maybe 10
• leash 15 cm

FLAG OF THE JERRY

We are upgrading the purchased flag. We cut the flag at the top by 15 mm, so that there remains a free end of the spring, to which we attach an elongated ring of wire.

We simply twist the wire tightly on the spring after making cuts so that the wire does not fly off; for reliability, you can wrap it with threads and glue on top. The flag can thus move and occupy either a working or traveling position.

We wind the equipment onto a reel.

We insert the flag on the other side of the brackets between the clamps from the bicycle tire.

The video shows the work of the winter zherlitsa and its general form. The oscillation force from the spring is shown. But in the correct girder, the spring is not connected to the equipment.

There are two types of this equipment. They differ in the type of installation. Each type of girder has both pros and cons.

On the platform

Such a platform is installed on a flat base with sides of 25x25 cm. The platform does not have to be square. It can be rectangular or round. The platform is usually made of wood or plastic.

The platform holder is installed directly on the hole and has the following advantages:

• the hole is closed from sunlight - the fish are not afraid of too bright light;
• the base of the girder slows down the freezing of the surface of the water in the hole - the fishing line winds up and unwinds freely.

On the counter

This design has much more advantages than disadvantages:

• the girder on the stand is easy to transport, it has small dimensions;
• the reel with fishing line is securely attached to stands made of any material: metal, wood, plastic;
• they are high enough - you don’t need to use signal posts during snowfall.

The rack on the stand has the following disadvantages:

• the fishing line freezes into the ice;
• the line freezes to the reel.

Both types of ice fishing poles can be easily made with your own hands.

Making girders is not as difficult as it might seem at first. It is quite beneficial in terms of saving money. A pike rig can be made from available materials. In most cases, tackle made correctly with your own hands turns out to be more effective than purchased analogues.

Zherlitsa-flyer

This is the simplest option, which has been used since ancient times. Such a girder is still used with pleasure by many fishermen who do not want to spend a lot of money on gear. It is ideal for summer fishing. To make it yourself you need a minimum of materials and fishing accessories:

Tubular vent

This is a modern version of the classic zherlitsa. This is produced summer tackle from modern materials:

1. take a polymer tube with a diameter of about 50 mm and a length of up to 60 cm. You will also need a small piece of a bicycle tube;
2. make a couple of holes in the prepared tube. The first will be used in the future to secure the entire structure on the shore, and the second is needed to secure the fishing line;
3. We wind 15 m of fishing line onto the pipe. We pass the free end of the fishing line through the hole of a sliding sinker weighing 15 g. We stop the latter with an elastic band. At the end of the fishing line we attach a swivel for a leash;
4. To fix the resulting vent in the working position, we use a piece of a pre-prepared chamber approximately 2 cm wide.

Plastic bottle holder

This is the so-called hiking option. They resort to it when they initially did not plan to catch pike, but, once at the reservoir, they changed their mind. Making the gear looks like this:

• a fishing line is wound around an empty bottle and attached to the lid with several loops;
• Several loops are made at the free end of the fishing line, to which hooks and sinkers are attached.

All that remains is to put bait on the hooks, lower the tackle into the pond and wait for a bite.

It’s not at all difficult to make a summer perch with your own hands. Each angler decides for himself which design to use. All designs can be changed as you please. Perhaps you will be the one to create the most effective modification of the gear.

Zherlitsa is a catchy tackle for catching pike with live bait. There are many models of pike jigs, there are winter and summer options.

Its ancestor is an ordinary live bait fishing rod that our grandfathers used to fish. With the advent of the simplest fishing reels, a winter reel was invented.

They fish with them all winter and this is perhaps the only tackle that allows you to catch pike in the middle of winter. At this time, it stops responding to the spinner and balancer.

Almost all wires consist of a bracket with a coil attached to it, and a flexible long metal plate with a bright flag. The choice of this gear depends on the fisherman; some people prefer a pole with a plastic circle covering the hole, others prefer one pole stuck into a pile of snow.

Flat base racks

I use cords with a flat base, on which a bracket with a reel is attached; they are light, compact, ten cords can be stored in a small handbag.

• They are easy to assemble and disassemble, all parts are interchangeable.
• Such winter girders are easy to install on bare ice and snow.
• The round platform covers the hole and protects it from freezing.
• The advantage of such a base is that the hole is darkened, which is important when fishing for pike in shallow places.
• You can install such a vent without getting your hands wet, which is very important in the cold.

Although this model is not all so rosy.

• In the presence of wind, on slippery ice they crawl along it, which requires some kind of solution to the problem.
• In very cold weather, the base of the vent may freeze to the ice and may crack.
• Not the cheapest.

Girders with one stand

Models with one stand are cheaper, but they have more disadvantages.

• When installing such a girder, you need to collect and compact a pile of snow, which is not very pleasant in the cold.
• In addition, if the stand is metal and on the street there is a big minus, wet hands will simply freeze to it.
• In the spring, the sun heats up the rack, especially an aluminum one, and if it is installed in a pile of snow, it falls; such a nuisance also occurs during a thaw.
• It is impossible to install such a hole on smooth ice; moreover, a hole that is not covered by anything freezes longer and faster.

Taganka piers

There is also a “Taganka” design, a lightweight aluminum three-legged model with a reel and signal pole.

• The zherlitsa is compact, but extremely unstable in the wind and pike bites.
• The coil is not fixed and the metal itself is subject to deformation.
• It is completely unsuitable for fishing in frosty weather; it is metal and you cannot take it with your bare hand in cold weather.
• In addition, when water inevitably gets on the “lamb” that secures the legs, everything freezes into a monolith, and disassembling it after fishing is a problem.
• There is a plastic version, these are even worse; when bitten, the legs can fold and the girder will drown.

With the arrival of winter frosts, fishing enthusiasts are increasingly turning their attention to gear for winter underwater fishing. There are quite a few ways a large number of, but one of the most popular, without a doubt, is winter fishing. What makes it so popular among fishermen? High catchability compared to balancers and spoons, simplicity of gear design, or catchability even in the deepest winter period?

A fisherman can place several poles and sit and relax or fish nearby. The bright flags of the winter girder will let the fisherman know about bites so that he can react in a timely manner. If there are no bites, you often have to change the fishing location. In search of fish, warmly dressed fishermen with a drill and gear can cover up to seven kilometers a day. Hence the need for lighter and more convenient gear arises. In use, a winter girder should be comfortable and light, so that the fisherman does not have to spend a lot of time and effort changing the fishing location. The designs of winter vents are varied, but they are all built according to one general principle. So, how to make a winter vent?

Video winter zherlitsa

Winter vent design

The winter shelter is arranged quite simply, even somewhat primitively. It can be built while fishing directly, but it is best to go fishing prepared. Various materials can be used to make the girder. It basically consists of a wooden or metal stand, 30 cm long, with its lower ends pointed to make it easier to stick into the ice. Also an integral part of the design of the girder is a reel with 15-20 m. A signaling flag is attached to the top of the rack. This is the simplest and most common design. There are also many other good and functional options. For example, the reel can be mounted not on a vertical stand, but on a plastic or wooden platform, which must be installed on top of the hole, covering it like a lid.

For beginners, as well as perhaps already experienced “veterans”, when creating a winter zherlitsa, the tips and recommendations on how to make a winter zherlitsa, which are given below, will certainly be useful.

It is best to start assembling the girder from the stand. The material from which it will be made and the shape is a secondary issue; the important indicator here is the thickness of the material. Without a doubt, the material for delivery must be durable so that it does not break or crack in the cold, but at the same time it must be light. The shape of the stand may vary. For someone ideal option is a stand in the shape of a circle, which is larger in diameter than the size of the hole. Others may prefer a square or rectangular stand, which will cover only half of the hole, but this is a personal matter of taste.

The main function of the base is to darken the hole in order to protect it from freezing. Now on sale there are round stands that are made of plastic, their diameter is 200 mm, thickness is 2.6 mm, weight is 80 g. This is a pretty good option. But such stands are designed for a slightly different type of racks, so a little modification is required so that they can be a full-fledged base for racks with stands. But if you do not have the opportunity to purchase such stands, you can easily replace them with alternative ones, which you can make yourself from a suitable material. So, we settled on a store-bought stand.

As for the options for attaching the rack to the stand itself, there are many of them, but at the same time they must be quickly and reliably connected and transported separately. Here we can offer the following mounting option. At the bottom end of the stand we attach a self-tapping screw with a fairly large head; the distance between the back of the self-tapping head and the end of the stand should be equal to the thickness of the stand. We cut a groove in the stand itself; its width should be equal to the diameter of the screw rod. All that remains is to insert the stand into the groove of the stand. A stand with such a simple fastening element, when attached to a stand, is held quite reliably in a vertical position. In order to make grooves for the stands in the stands, you need to use a marker to make the appropriate markings on the stand. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the expected depth of the groove and the direction of the slot for the fishing line. On average, the depth of the groove is about two centimeters. After this, you need to make a cut to obtain a groove. To do this, use a hacksaw blade to make two cuts parallel to each other to the required length, and after that the middle part between the two cuts is removed using pliers.

Processing of irregularities is carried out using. If you use a harder material than plastic to make stands, then in order to quickly remove the middle part, you should drill a hole at the level of the end of the cuts with a drill, the diameter of which is equal to the width between the two cuts.

It doesn’t take very much time to remake purchased stands, so after all the steps described above, you can start making stands for the vents.

To make racks, you can choose a metal-plastic pipe, which is intended for plumbing work. The outer covering of these pipes is plastic, which means that when assembling and disassembling the vents, your hands will not “cool” so much in the cold. A metal-plastic pipe measuring 20 cm and ½ inch internal diameter is an excellent lightweight and durable stand. Such a pipe can be easily cut with a hacksaw and, if necessary, can be bent in any direction without any problems. The indicated pipe diameter is not accidental. This is due to the subsequent fastening of the self-tapping screw in the end part of the rack pipe. We secure the self-tapping screw at the end of the rack using a piece of plastic glue stick, which is usually used complete with a heat gun.

Good adhesion to any surface is ensured by the molten mass of the glue stick; after hardening, a fairly strong, homogeneous mass is formed. It is not necessary to use a heat gun. The glue stick melts at a temperature of 70 degrees. The glue stick can be heated over its entire surface over an open fire until it becomes transparent, this indicates that the plastic has begun to melt, after which the stick should be placed in the cavity of the rack. When the rod has cooled down, the excess section must be cut off with a construction knife, in this case we will get a kind of plastic plug. You can already screw a self-tapping screw into it, fixed in the rack. The self-tapping screw should not fit into the groove too tightly, but not too loosely, since the stand may be unstable. Then you should attach the alarm and coil to the stand. It is best to use electrical tape for this.

As a bite alarm, you can use a 40 cm long spring from a military cap. As an alternative, you can use a piece of metal measuring tape. A bright flag is attached to the end of the spring with moisture-resistant glue to the metal.

As for the reel, it is better if its design has a reverse stopper; this will allow the reel to be transported already equipped with doubles or tees. You can immediately attach such coils to the girder stand, but it is better to modify it a little. For better visibility, it is recommended to paint the outside of the reel. The movement of such a coil can be seen from afar. The movement of the reel should be smooth and soft; “free movement” of the reel can lead to the line overlapping and tangling. To prevent this from happening, the coil can be disassembled, and then a fairly large amount of frost-resistant grease can be applied to the metal axis. This method will allow you to forget about the “free running” of the reel for several fishing trips.

The main line used is a winter fishing line 10-20 cm long, a weight from 5 to 15 grams, and even more in the current. You equip the harness with the leash that you prefer.

So, you already know how to make a winter vent and you have it ready. Now you can go to the reservoir to actually test the girder that you made with your own hands.

Conclusion

The variety of winter vents is not limited to production using the above method. There are dozens of different designs. Thanks to this simple fishing device, like a fisherman on winter fishing, one person can try his luck at several cleared holes in the ice at once, and this increases the chances of coming home with a catch several times. Good luck when fishing with winter lures!