Who was the first to conquer Everest? Everest Climbing: Nine Tragic Climbing Stories Has anyone climbed Everest

Two brave guys - Nepalese Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary - became the first people to successfully climb the highest point on Earth in 1953. It is part of the Himalayan mountains and is located in Tibet. Its correct Tibetan name is "Chomolungma" which means "divine mistress of the winds". People had respect and awe for the mountain giant long before the idea of ​​conquering it appeared. On Western maps, another name was fixed - Everest - by the name of the British colonel Sir George Everest (eng. George Everest, 1790-1866), the head of the geodetic service, who first measured the height of the mountain.

Ascent attempts

At an altitude of almost 9 km, environmental conditions are the most extreme on Earth:

• Discharged, almost unbreathable air;
• Severe frost (up to – 60° C.);
• Hurricane wind (up to 50 m/s).

The ability to withstand such aggressive conditions, as well as reliable methods of climbing to a height, did not exist for a long time. The Tibetans saw in Chomolungma a symbol of divine power and impregnability and did not try to master the impossible. The first attempts to climb Everest began to be made in the 1920s. the British.

• In 1921, the expedition, having overcome 640 km along the Tibetan plateau, reached the foot of the mountain. Weather conditions did not allow to continue the ascent. The result of the expedition was a visual assessment of a potential climbing route.

• In 1922, the expedition members climbed to a height of 8230 m, without reaching the top of 618 m.

• In 1924 - 8573 m, 274 m remained to the top.

In all three cases, participants covered distances on their own breathing without the use of oxygen tanks.

• Attempts to conquer Everest were made in the 1930s, after which they were forgotten until the early 1950s. None of these expeditions were successful: new records could not be set. Some ended in death.

• In 1952, a Swiss expedition, including Tenzing Norgay, passed the Khumbu Glacier and reached a new height of 8598 m. The group was forced to turn back due to running out of supplies. There were 250 m left to reach the summit.

Encouraged by the success of the Swiss, in 1953 the British, under the leadership of Colonel John Hunt, began to prepare for a new major ascent. Tenzig Norgay, as the most experienced climber from the local population, was also included in this composition.

Norgay and Hillary had such different life paths that only Everest could bring them together.

Tenzing Norgay - a positive Nepalese who always smiles from all the surviving photographs - began as a modest porter who accompanied those who wanted to get to Chomolungma. There were no special occupations in the region, and this, although it was risky, brought some money. By 1953, he had spent as much time on the mountain as anyone else. Norgay was ill with Chomolungma. “The reason is somewhere in the heart,” he said. “I had to go up…because the pull of Everest was the biggest force on earth.”

Norgay tried to climb Chomolungma from the age of 19 and did it almost every year. During the absence of expeditions, he participated in the conquest of the Indian Nanda Devi (7816 m), Pakistani Tirich Mir (7708 m) and Nanga Parbat (8125 m), the Nepalese Langtang mountain region (7246 m), accompanied a research expedition to Tibet. Norgay was a renowned summit climber, so it was not unusual for the British to invite him on the 1953 expedition, nor was it unusual for him to be one of the first two to reach the summit of Everest. At that time he was 39 years old.

The second hero - Edmund Hillary - graduated from the University of Auckland ( New Zealand). Like his father, he was engaged in beekeeping. From boredom and monotony of life, he fell in love with going to the mountains: the New Zealand Alps are not too high (3754 m), but quite sufficient to get sick with mountaineering. Where did the idea of ​​​​conquering Chomolungma from Hillary come from, history is silent. Perhaps it was an accident. At the time of the ascent, he was 33 years old.

Rise of Norgay and Hillary

Several climbers took part in the expedition, but only four, divided into two pairs - Norgay and Hillary, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans - were selected by the leader to make the main ascent.

Climbing Everest in those days was not extreme entertainment, but a political task - about the same as flying into space or landing on the moon. Also, now as then, this event is not cheap travel.

The expedition was paid for by the British: it was supposed to be completed by the coronation of Elizabeth II. It was a symbolic gift to the queen and at the same time the strengthening of the power of Great Britain and leaving a mark on history. The ascent had to be successful, no matter what. The expedition was organized at the highest level for that time. Windproof and waterproof clothes and shoes for climbers, radio station, oxygen systems. The group was accompanied by a doctor, a camera operator and a journalist to cover the ascent.

In April 1953, after several months of planning and calculation, the group began to move. On their way up, they founded 9 temporary camps, some of which are still used by climbers to Chomolungma. The climbers went through the Valley of Silence (Western Cwm), through Lhozde and the South Col, they reached a mark of about 8000 m. The remaining 800 meters had to be overcome by one of the two teams.

The team of Bourdillon and Evans went first on 26 May. Before reaching the top of 91 m, they were forced to turn back: the weather conditions worsened, a malfunction of one of the oxygen devices was discovered.

Norgay and Hillary started on May 28, leaving behind the camp at an altitude of 8504 m. The night of May 29 was frosty and sleepless. The guys spent it in the 9th camp. The story goes that when Hillary woke up at 4 am, he found that his boots had turned to stone from the cold. 2 hours he warmed them. At 6:30 they started the last stage of the ascent. By 9 o'clock the guys reached the South Peak, but here their path was blocked by an impenetrable area - a 12-meter high rocky ledge. Hillary found a way to overcome it: he had to climb very slowly, it took an hour of extra time. Since then, this area is called the Hillary scarp.

At 11:30 am, Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary reached the summit of Everest, becoming the first people to do so. What can I say: their joy knew no bounds. Hillary photographed Norgay triumphantly holding an ice ax with the flags of Nepal, Great Britain, India and the Commonwealth of Nations flying. It is said that Norgay did not know how to handle a camera, so there are no photographs of Hillary from the top. They stayed at the top for 15 minutes, after which they began a long descent back, forever getting into history.

The fate of Norgay and Hillary after the ascent

The next day, all the newspapers wrote about the finally held ascent of Everest. This was another proof of the strength of a person who can do seemingly impossible things. Edmund Hillary and the leader of the expedition on behalf of the Queen of Great Britain were awarded knighthoods. Tenzing Norgay was not a subject of the British crown, so he did not become a knight, but was awarded the Order of the British Empire.

Subsequently, Hillary continued his extreme travel. During the transantarctic expedition, he visited the South Pole of the Earth. Then - on Mount Herschel in Antarctica. Sailed the wild Nepalese rivers on a motorboat.

I repeated the same thing on the Ganges - from the mouth to the source in the Himalayas. In 1985, together with astronaut Neil Armstrong (the first to set foot on the moon as part of the Apollo 11 expedition), he flew a twin-engine plane to the North Pole. Edmund Hillary became the first and only person to visit the three poles of the earth - the south, north and Everest, known as the symbolic third pole. He was bored, and he made life more diverse as he could. Despite the extreme conditions in which Hillary often lived, putting his life and health at risk, he lived for 88 years.

How different were the stories of the discoverers of Chomolungma before the ascent, so different were their paths after it. For Tenzing Norgay, the 1953 trip was the last extreme trip of his life. He became a well-known person in India, served as director of the Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering, and participated in political life. He lived to be 71 years old, leaving behind six children, one of whom followed in his father's footsteps and conquered Everest in 1996.

Factrum wants to tell you some stories about conquering Everest. Warning: the text is not for the impressionable!

1. 40 passers-by and one Discovery TV crew

For the first time, the general public learned about the "terrible" morals that prevail on the approaches to Everest in May 2006, when the circumstances of the death of David Sharp, a British climber who tried to conquer the summit alone, became known. He never made it to the top, dying from hypothermia and oxygen starvation, but it is noteworthy that a total of 40 people passed by the slowly freezing mathematics teacher, and no one helped him. Among those who passed by was a film crew from the Discovery TV channel, whose journalists interviewed the dying Sharpe, left him oxygen and moved on.

The general public was indignant at the "immoral" act of the "passers", but the truth is that no one could help Sharpe at such a height, even with all the desire. It was simply not humanly possible.

2. "Green shoes"

It is not known when the concept of "green shoes" entered the everyday life of the conquerors of Everest and became folklore. But it is known for certain that they belong to the Indian climber Tsevang Palzhor, one of the victims of the "bloody May" of 1996 - a total of 15 people died on Everest that month. This is the largest number of victims in one season in the history of conquering the highest peak on the planet. For years, the green boots of Paljoros have been a guide for those who climb the mountain.

In May 1996, several commercial expeditions climbed Everest at once - two American, one Japanese, one Indian and one Taiwanese. There is still debate about who is to blame for the fact that most of their participants never returned. Several films have been made based on the events of that May, and the surviving participants have written several books. Someone blames the weather, someone blames the guides who started descending before their clients, someone else blames the expeditions that did not help those in distress or even hindered them.

3. Spouses Arsentiev

In May 1998, Francis and Sergei Arsentiev attempted to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen. The idea is daring, but quite real - without additional equipment (at least 10–12 kg), you can climb and descend faster, but the risk of complete exhaustion from lack of oxygen is very high. If during the ascent or descent something goes wrong and the climbers stay in the "death zone" longer than the physical capabilities of the body allow, they will inevitably die.

The couple spent five days in the base camp at an altitude of 8200 meters, twice their attempts to climb ended in failure, time passed, and strength left with it. Finally, on May 22, they went out for the third time and ... conquered the summit.

However, during the descent, the couple lost sight of each other and Sergei was forced to go down alone. Frances lost too much strength and just fell, unable to continue on her way. A few days later, an Uzbek group passed by freezing Francis without helping her. But its participants told Sergei that they saw his wife and he, taking oxygen cylinders, went in search of ... and died. His body was found much later.

The last people Francis saw, and who, accordingly, saw her alive, were British climbers Ian Woodall and Cathy O'Dowd, who spent several hours with the dying woman. According to them, she kept repeating “do not leave me”, but the British could no longer help her and left, leaving her to die alone.

4. Perhaps the first true conquerors of Everest

It is not for nothing that those who seek to conquer Everest say that it is not enough to climb - until you descend, you cannot consider the conquered peak. If only because there will be no one to tell that you really were there. Such is the sad fate of climbers George Mallory and Andrew Irwin, who attempted to conquer Mount Everest in 1924. Whether they reached the top or not is unknown.

In 1933, at an altitude of 8460 m, the hatchet of one of the climbers was found. In 1991, at an altitude of 8480 m, an oxygen cylinder was found, manufactured in 1924 (and, accordingly, belonged to either Irwin or Mallory). And finally, in 1999, Mallory's body was found - at an altitude of 8200 m. Neither a camera nor a photograph of his wife was found with him. The latter fact makes researchers believe that either Mallory, or both climbers, nevertheless reached the summit, since Mallory, before going to Everest, told his daughter that he would definitely leave a photo of his wife at the top.

5. Everest does not forgive "not like everyone else"

Everest severely punishes those who try to act "not like everyone else." It is not for nothing that most successful ascents are made either in May or in September-October - the rest of the year the weather on the mountain is not conducive to ascents and descents. Too cold (before May), weather conditions change too fast, risk of avalanches too high (summer).

Bulgarian Hristo Prodanov decided to prove that climbing Everest in April is quite possible - to do what no one has done before him. He was a very experienced climber who had scaled many iconic peaks.

In April 1984, Christo undertook the ascent of Everest - alone and without oxygen. He successfully conquered the summit, becoming at the same time the first Bulgarian to set foot on the very high mountain planet and the first person to do so in April. However, on the way back, he fell into a severe snowstorm and froze to death.

6. The creepiest corpse on Everest

Hannelore Schmatz became the first woman and the first German citizen to die on the approach to the summit of Everest. It happened in October 1979. However, she is known not only for this reason and not because she died of exhaustion on the descent, having successfully conquered Everest, but because for another good 20 years her body frightened those who tried to conquer Everest. She, blackened in the cold, froze in a sitting position in the direction of climbing Everest, her eyes wide open and her hair blowing in the wind. They tried to lower her body from the top, but several expeditions failed, and the participants of one of them died themselves.

In the end, the mountain took pity and during one particularly strong storm at the beginning of the "zero" Hannelore's body was thrown into the abyss.

7. Keep Anniversaries Alive

Sherp Lobsang Shering, nephew of Tenzing Norgay, the first official climber of Everest, decided in May 1993 to make the ascent in memory of what his uncle had done. Fortunately, the 40th anniversary of the conquest of the mountain was just approaching. However, Everest does not really like "anniversaries" - Schering successfully climbed the highest mountain on the planet, but died during the descent, when he already believed that he was safe.

8. You can climb Everest as much as you want, but one day he will take you.

Babu Chiri Sherpa is a Sherpa legend, a guide who has been to Everest ten times. The man who spent 21 hours at the top of the mountain without oxygen, the man who climbed to the top in 16 hours and 56 minutes, which is still a record. The 11th expedition ended tragically for him. At an altitude of 6500 meters, "childish" for this guide, he photographed the mountains, accidentally miscalculated his movements, stumbled and fell into a crevice, in which he crashed to death.

9. He died, but someone survived

Brazilian Vitor Negrete died in May 2006 during the descent after conquering Everest. This was Negrete's second ascent, and this time he planned to be the first Brazilian to summit the mountain without oxygen. Climbing, he made a cache in which he left food and oxygen, which he could use on the descent. However, on the way back, after a successful mission, he found that his hiding place had been devastated and all supplies had disappeared. Negreta did not have enough strength to reach the base camp and he died not far from it. Who took the supplies and the life of the Brazilian remained unclear.

30 years ago, on May 4, 1982, the highest peak in the world, Everest (Chomolungma), was first conquered by Soviet climbers - Vladimir Balyberdin and Eduard Myslovsky.

Everest conquered, was a 13-year-old American teenager. Jordan Romero summited Everest on May 22, 2010 with his father and three guides.

Belongs to the Nepalese spiritual teacher Bhakt Kumar Rai. He spent on the highest peak world 32 hours, 27 of them - in meditation. Bhakta Kumar Rai used the oxygen tank for only 11 hours.

In 2001, the astonishing feat of climbing Everest was accomplished by the blind American Eric Weihenmeier. By that time, he had already conquered all the highest mountain peaks on all seven continents.

In 1992, Frenchman Pierre Tardevel skied down the slope of Everest. He left the southern peak, located at an altitude of 8571 meters, and covered three kilometers in three hours.

In 1998, the Frenchman Cyril Desremo made the first descent from the summit on a snowboard.

In 1988 Frenchman Jean-Marc Bovin made the first paragliding flight from the summit of Everest.

In 1991, four British extreme sportsmen flew over the peak from Nepal to Tibet in two balloons.

In 2001, a French couple, Bertrand and Claire Bernier, flew down from the summit in a tandem glider.

In May 2004, the Italian Angelo D "Arrigo, for the first time in the history of aeronautics, flew a hang glider over the top of Everest.

On May 14, 2005, a helicopter landed for the first time on the summit of Mount Everest. A unique flight was performed by Didier Delsalle, test pilot of Eurocopter, on a serial Eurocopter Ecureuil/AStar AS350 B3 helicopter.

On October 4, 2008, the first ever skydive over Mount Everest was made. The authors of the record were the representative of New Zealand Wendy Smith, Briton Holly Budge and Canadian with British citizenship Neil Jones. Extreme athletes flew about a minute in free fall, jumping out of the plane over Everest at an altitude of about 9 thousand meters.

Before talking about money, let's remember that 2014 and 2015 were the worst years on Everest: they did their "dirty deed", and during this period only one small bunch of climbers climbed to the top of the world from the southern, Nepalese side:.

After such terrible events (when 40 people died on Everest in two years), it is safe to say that at the top of the world there is now no such thing as the "safest climbing route" ...

However, 2016 brought the mountaineering industry back to "normal" on the world's highest peak, and already that season was the second most successful ascent, with 641 people reaching the summit.

But the 2019 season set a new record: this time, 871 climbers climbed the summit in spring, of which 641 climbers climbed from the Nepal side and 230 climbers from the Tibetan side!
All ascents were carried out within 11 days (without a break).

Of course, the main topic for us was the ascent to the top of five Ukrainian climbers who climbed in three different expeditions:

• - planned to climb Everest (from the northern, Tibetan side) along the standard route using oxygen tanks and the help of Sherpas.
  Line-up: Valentin Sipavin (Kharkov) - head of the group, Pavel Sidorenko (Kharkov), Vitaly Kozubsky (Kyiv), Ekaterina Klenova (Russia)
  

  Now let's briefly talk about the state of the financial side of the issue:

  In general, prices for the upcoming 2020 season have increased compared to 2019; The key element of the price change was .

  In other matters, the trend of increasing the minimum and maximum prices is still preserved.
  The average estimate was affected by rising prices from China, where climbers will have to pay 58% more for permits than they did last year.
  Also, several highly paid travel companies have entered the market, providing VIP services to their customers.

  For example, the travel company Seven Summit Treks announced its unique offer for VIP clients: “Platinum Everest Expedition 2020”. The cost of participation in the expedition under this program is 160,000 US dollars!
  Note that up to this point, the maximum prices -.
  Himex, which for many years organized expeditions at prices ranging from $55,000 to $60,000, has now set a price tag of $70,000.
  At the same time, Nepalese travel companies, which in past seasons asked $32,000 for participation in the expedition, have now set a price tag of $38,000 for the 2020 season.
  Thus, the minimum price offer has increased from $28,000 to $32,000, in other words, it is still cheaper to climb Everest with a Nepalese travel agency.

  As for the question of which side is the best in terms of pricing, Tibet still wins over Nepal, although this difference is shrinking very quickly.

  In terms of safety, people are dying on both sides of Everest, and most deaths are now primarily due to the inexperience of the climbers themselves, and not because of which tour operator the climber chose.

  However, despite such a rise in prices, as before, the ascent from Tibet remains in the ranks of the cheapest offers, of course, with the exception of the most famous Western tour companies.
  Thus, the average price of a regular, low and medium-budget expedition to Everest for one participant is $42,500 if ascending from Nepal, with a maximum price of $67,000; and $43,875 if you climb to the top from Tibet, with a maximum price of $85,000.

  In general, the price range for an expedition ranges from $32,000 to $130,000.

  The most expensive expedition cost is fixed at around 160,000 US dollars, such a price offer for sophisticated gourmets can be offered by Seven Summit Treks.
  Slightly cheaper, for $130,000 (), customers can go up the mountain at International Mountain Guides, Furtenbach, 7 Summit Club, RMI.

  Ultimately, over the past five years, travel companies have increased the cost of expeditions to Everest by 6% from Nepal and 12% from China.

  Recently, many low-cost Nepalese tour operators have gained a foothold in this market, competing on price, but now they understand that they are losing a lot of money and are starting to raise prices.
  On the other side of the mountain, China also does not want to be left out of such a large cash flow, and is looking for new,

  Everest commercial ascents operate like any other competitive market, where the quantity and quality of offers are driven by customer demand and capabilities.
  From year to year, more and more climbers from India and China come to Everest, gradually displacing the number of traditional climbers from Europe and the USA.

  As a result, if we predict the development of this market for the next five years, we can assume that, no matter which side of Everest you choose for the expedition, the price of participation will increase more and more.

  It is worth noting that now in the "lobbies" of the government of Nepal there are rumors about a possible increase in the cost of Everest permits from the current $11,000 to $15,000 per climber from 2020. But for now, this remains just a rumor, and in this review, we will not take into account this possible price.

  So, for climbing from the North, Chinese side:

  In 2020, the Chinese government raised the cost of Everest climbing permits for a team of four or more climbers from $9,950 to $15,800 per person on the team, an increase of 58%.
  At the same time, China essentially banned solo ascents of Everest and ascents in small groups ( last year, the cost of a permit for a team of 1 to 3 people from the Chinese side was $19,500 for each person in the team! But this price included: transport from the starting point to the base camp, hotels, a communications officer, garbage fees, five yaks for the trip to the base camp and four yaks for the pod from the base camp).

  In addition, there is also an additional fee of $200 per day per person for the time spent in Lhasa.
  Further, if you want to take a Nepalese Sherpa on the Chinese side, you will have to pay an additional $3,300 for a "work permit" for each Sherpa, plus pay at least $5,000 for their work.

  And most of these climbers participate in the ascent as part of commercial expeditions.
  Only a very small part of climbers (literally a few) undertake solo ascents or ascents by independent, non-profit groups.

  

  During independent ascents, the following costs fall on the shoulders of climbers:

  
  
  • purchase of air tickets to Kathmandu;
  • purchase of provisions for at least 6 weeks of the expedition
  • flight to Lukla or Lhasa
  • hiring porters and sherpas to transport cargo to the base camp
  • setting up and equipping your base camp
  • self-catering
  • independent provision of weather forecasts
  • independent equipment of high-altitude camps
  • rent of existing, fixed railings (or self-attachment of your own)
  • independent transfer of the necessary equipment to high-altitude camps
  • purchase (rent) of oxygen cylinders and regulators
  • after climbing, hiring porters to transport goods back from the base camp

  If in this generalized list (and it does not cover smaller expenses), the climber can see cost savings compared to commercial expeditions, then, in general, everything turns out the other way around: the cost of solo climbing increases by about $15,000 compared to commercial expeditions. It is also worth considering the incredibly increasing physical complexity of such solo ascents.

  In general, the cost of acquiring permits, visas, laying routes, delivering goods, insurance, for example, for a team of six people, will cost $ 13,000 for each team member at today's prices.
  But, if it is one person, the fee will increase for him to $ 35,000 and even more.

  Equipment, food, tents and other public elements of the expedition for each of the participants will cost about $ 25,000 (this price includes oxygen tanks and Sherpas).
  This amount also corresponds to the solo ascension

  Thus, in a team climb, the minimum total cost of climbing Everest for each of the team members will be between $38,000-$40,000.

  For solo climbing, this minimum amount goes up to $60,000.

  Therefore, at present, many of the independent teams or solo climbers are teaming up with other similar non-profit groups to share in the expenses of the expeditions, if of course their climbing plans coincide.
  But in any case, the transfer of equipment to the base camp and the payment of permits are included in the climbing plans of any group, and in this case it is much easier to unite with other participants.

  Also, you can team up and hire one group of Sherpas and cooks for several simultaneous expeditions.

  

  Thus, depending on the option of hiring Sherpas and cooks (and they should at least participate in the expedition: 2 Sherpas and one cook), the cost of climbing Everest increases to:

  $55,000 in case of team climb
  $85,000 in case of solo climbing (with own hire of Sherpas and cooks)

  This is only the main, but not the full part of the cost of climbing Everest.
  This does not include personal and incidental expenses.

  

  Below we provide a list of the necessary costs in the case of a non-commercial ascent of Everest from Nepal in 2020 prices

  (But still, despite such a detailed list of costs, all items of expenditure are not taken into account here, for example, there is no price for an insurance policy ...)

  Personal expenses on the way to Nepal from $9,500 - $17,000 including:

  
  
  • Flight tickets: from $1500 to $7000 depending on the class and route of the flight, as well as depending on the amount of excess baggage. According to statistics, most often climbers use the services of airlines from Thailand, Turkey, Qatar and East China.
  • Transportation from Kathmandu to Lukla: $350 roundtrip per person. Some climbers prefer to make a trekking trip on foot, which takes about a week for experienced people (from Kathmandu to the base camp). The cost of such a transition varies from $ 400 to $ 1000 (including overnight stays, meals and porters on the route).
  • Hotel and food in Kathmandu and Lukla: from $300 to $700 depending on accommodation conditions
  • Nepal visa: $100
  • Medical vaccinations: $200
  • Personal equipment (equipment, clothing, sleeping bags, etc.): up to $7,000

  Road to Base Camp: from $1250 to $1800 including:

  
  
  • Transportation of cargo on yaks to/from the Base Camp: $40 per yak per day of passage - price per 70 kg of cargo. The minimum hire for a team is 4 yaks for 4 days - or $640. 2017 change (From the Chinese side, the cost of a yak: $ 300 for one yak per day)
  • Transportation of cargo by Sherpa porters to/from Base Camp: $20 per porter/Sherpa per day - price per 27 kilos of cargo. Minimum hire for a team - 3 porters for 6 days - or $ 360 2017 change
  • Tips and food during the transition to the Base Camp: from $ 20 to $ 100 per person per day. For 7 days of trekking - from $140 to $700
  • Fee for passing National park- $100 per team

  Price to climb Everest: $18,000 to $27,800 including

  
  
  • Liaison officer participation: $3,000 per team (usually included in the cost of travel agency services) 2017 change
  • Tour operator fee - $2500 per team (usually included in the cost of travel agency services) 2017 change
  • Mandatory participation in the ascent of each climber by one mountain guide - Sherpas - $ 4000 from each climber - ()
  • Contribution to the medical service of the Base Camp: $ 100 per person
  • Climbing permit: $ 11,000 per person in the team, regardless of the number of team members (). From China, the cost of a permit: $ 15,800 for each in a team of 4 people ().
  • Deposit environmental fee: $ 4,000 per team (refundable after the team removes their expedition garbage from Everest (but not always returned ...). From China, a garbage fee of $ 4,000 from the team ()
  • Sherpa work at Khumbu Icefall (Team Icefall Doctors): $2,500 per team or $600 per person 2016 change
  • Work of Sherpas laying railings above the Khumbu Icefall: $200 per person 2018 change
  • Weather Forecast: $0 to $1000
  • Sacred Puja ceremony (prayer for successful ascent): $300

  High-altitude camps: from $3800 to $8800 including:

  
  
  • Arrangement of high-altitude camp tents (sleeping place, kitchen, toilet, warehouse): 4 high-altitude camps for 3 people: $ 3000
  • The work of cooks and cook assistants for 6 weeks of expedition time: $ 5000
  • Food and fuel for burners for 6 weeks of expedition time: $800 per person

  Climbing: $2,200 to $14,000 including:

  
  
  • Oxygen system: from $50 to $550 per cylinder (at least 5 cylinders are required for climbing = from $250 to $2700) - the price does not include bringing oxygen cylinders by Sherpas to high-altitude camps.
  • Oxygen mask: $450
  • Oxygen regulator: $450
  • High-altitude Sherpa as a personal guide: $5,000
  • Delivery of oxygen points by Sherpas along the ascent route: $2000
  • Payment for Sherpas in case of their ascent to the top of Everest from $ 250 (small training on the route), up to $ 2000 (for one person when Sherpas climb to the top)
  • Climbing medical kit: $500 - 2000

  Other expenses: $8,500 to $33,000 including

  
  
  • - the price is determined depending on the height of the evacuation and the place of landing 2016 change
  • Evacuation without using a helicopter: $70 to $500 2017 change
  • Medical insurance: $500 2016 change
  • Insurance in case of cancellation of the expedition (for any reason: from medical to force majeure situations) - $3000
  • Satellite phone (personal) $1,000 to $3,000 depending on model
  • Payment for communication services: $ 1000
  • Sherpa equipment fee: $0 - $2000 2016 change
  • Insurance for Sherpas participating in the expedition: from $ 1000 ()

  TOTAL: for independent climbing Everest You will need costs ranging from: $ 70,000 (for experienced climbers who have climbed Everest before) and from about $ 45,000 - $ 60,000 for climbers participating in a group climb

  Recall that in the case of participation in a commercial expedition, the average cost is approximately $ 43,000 (when the ascent is organized by Nepalese agencies). The maximum reaches $ 130,000 (when the ascent is organized by foreign agencies).

  Over the past decades, such major Western tour operators as Adventure Consultants, Alpine Ascents (AAI), Jagged Globe, Himalayan Experience (Himex), International Mountain Guides (IMG) and others have brought hundreds of climbers to the top of Everest at prices ranging from 40,000 to 65,000 US dollars, for the "All Inclusive" package.

  But times are changing. In the past few years, there has been intense competition from Nepalese travel companies, in which Sherpas take part, who have dozens of successful ascents to the top of the world. They are much more modest in their requests compared to premium western mountain guides that can range from $10,000 to $25,000.
  And given the lower wages and assistants in the base camp and the Sherpas on the route, Nepalese tour operators can afford to drop from half to a third of the price offered by Western companies.

  So, in 2014, the Nepalese company Seven Summites Treks offered a place on an expedition to Everest for only 18,000 US dollars. In 2019, they are already offering $38,000 for a place in the team when climbing from Nepal, although the real price of the services is apparently no higher than $30,000.

  Many Nepalese Sherpa climbers now hold the UIAGM International Mountain Guide certification and have climbed more Himalayan peaks in their careers than Western climbers.

  Another well-known Nepalese company, Dreamers Destination, has increased the price for its services from $36,000 to $50,000.
  At the same time, one of the cheapest options for climbing Everest is Makaluextreme: only $35,000 for climbing from the south side.

  The last example on this list is TAGnepal, run by Tendi Shepa. He is an IFMGA / UIAGM certified mountain guide with 11 successful ascents of Everest and other summits in the Himalayas, the Alps, the Andes and China.
  In addition, Tendy is a highly qualified mountain rescue specialist who in 2011 completed a training course in Switzerland.
  For the 2019 season, his company is offering a place on an Everest expedition for $52,000 on the Tibet side and $55,000 on the Nepal side.

  But if you have plenty of money and are used to full personal service, then for your services companies such as Alpenglow and Fuenbach can offer prices from $85,000 to $110,000 per climber, which is two to three times the average price for north side.
  In addition, if you wish to have your own western mountain guide who will accompany only you to the summit and back, then the cost of the expedition increases to 130,000 US dollars.

  For example, here are the current prices for climbing Everest in various travel agencies (these prices do not include the purchase of personal equipment, transfers to and from Kathmandu, personal expenses and expenses for unforeseen situations):

  In general, the total cost of an Everest expedition ranges from $30,500 to $85,000 depending on the tour operator and services provided.
  But $85,000 is not the maximum amount for an expedition. If you wish to climb to the summit with a personal western guide (certified professional mountain guide not from Nepal or China), then, for example, tour operator Seven Summit Treks
  will bid $160,000 and tour operators International Mountain Guides and tour operator RMI will bid $130,000!

  Prices for 2019 and ascents made in 2013, 2016 and 2017

  (these prices do not include the purchase of personal equipment, transfers to/from Kathmandu, personal expenses and emergency expenses)

  Company	Number of climbers on the expedition	South wall. guides - Nepalese Sherpas *	South wall. guides - foreign climbers *	north wall	Ascents made in 2013 and 2016(2014 and 2015 were almost no climbs on Everest)
  Average price of Western companies		$44 000	$67 000	$55 000
  Average price of Nepalese companies		$40 000	N/A	$35 000
  Adventure Consultants	8-12	N/A	$65,000	N/A	283 total ascents(clients, sherpas, guides). operating since 1990 2013: 7 out of 10 clients, 5 guides, 21 sherpas 2016: 5 out of 8 clients, 2 guides, 16 sherpas 2017: 8 out of 15 clients, 3 guides, 19 sherpas 2018: 6 clients, 2 guides, 13 sherpas
  Adventure Peaks	10-12	48,400	N/A	$38 250	2013: 4 out of 8 clients 2016: 6 out of 6 clients 2017: 3 out of 4 clients, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
  Adventure Global	6-10	39,500	N/A	43,000	2016: 3 clients, 4 sherpas 2017: 0 clients out of 2, 0 sherpas
  Altitude Junkies	8-12	N/A	N/A	$42 500	2013 (north): 3 out of 9 clients, 1 guide, 7 sherpas 2016 (south): 5 out of 7 clients, 1 guide, 11 sherpas. In 2017 - 2018 does not conduct expeditions to Everest
  Alpen Glow	4-8	N/A	N/A	$85,000	2013: 1 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 2 guides, 3 sherpas 2017: 1 client, 2 guides, 4 sherpas 2018: 5 out of 9 clients, 2 guides, 5 sherpas
  Alpine Ascent International	8-16	N/A	$70,000	N/A	281 general ascents (customers, sherpas, guides) have been operating since 1992. 78% successful ascents since 2004 2013: 13 out of 16 clients, 3 guides, 21 sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 3 sherpas 2017: 5 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 6 sherpas 2018: 8 clients, 3 guides, 8 sherpas
  Arnold Coster	4-8	$44 500	N/A	36,500	2017: 2 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 3 sherpas
  Benegas Brothers/Mountain Madness	9-12	N/A	$75 000	N/A	2018: 1 client, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
  Climbing The Seven Summits	9-12	44,000	$62 000	N/A	2018: 7 clients, 1 guide, 8 sherpas
  Furtenbach Adventures	6-10	N/A	$64 000	$64 000	2016 - the first season for the company on Everest 2016 (south): 5 clients, 6 sherpas 2017: 7 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 8 sherpas 2018: 5 clients, 6 sherpas
  Himalayan Experience (Himex)	20-30	N/A	$70,000	N/A	380 total ascents (customers, sherpas, guides) operating since 1994, 0 – 96% successful ascents 2013: 12 out of 12 clients, 2 out of 2 guides, 12 sherpas 2016: 5 out of 6 clients, 1 out of 1 guides, 6 sherpas 2017: 4 out of 9 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2018: 2 clients, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
  High Adventure Expeditions	4-8	$46,000	N/A	N/A	no information
  International Mountain Guides	12-20	$46,000	$59,000	N/A	482 general ascents (customers, sherpas, guides) have been operating since 1991. 85% successful ascents since 2006 2013: 16 out of 31 clients, 4 guides, 24 sherpas 2016: 18 of? clients, 2 guides, 26 sherpas 2017: 20 out of 29 clients, 3 guides, 32 sherpas 2018: 12 clients, 3 guides, 14 sherpas
  jagged globe	8-12	N/A	$57,000	N/A	2013: 10 out of 10 clients, 3 guides, 11 sherpas 2016: 4 out of 5 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas 2017: 13 out of 20 clients, 13 Sherpas 2018: 4 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas
  Kobler & Partner	8-12	N/A	$57,500	$62,500	2017: 9 out of 11 clients, 1 guide, 10 sherpas
  Madison mountaineering	8-12	N/A	$65,000	N/A	2016: 7 out of 9 clients, 5 guides, 15 sherpas 2017: 8 out of 12 clients, 4 guides, 14 sherpas 2018: 8 clients, 2 guides, 8 sherpas
  mountain trip	4-8	N/A	$67,000	N/A	2013: 1 out of 4 clients, 0 guides, 4 sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2017: 4 out of 6 clients, 1 guide, 6 sherpas 2018: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas
  Mountain Professionals	4-8	N/A	$65,000	N/A	2017: 3 out of 5 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas
  Benegas Brothers	4-8	N/A	$67,000	N/A	2017: 3 out of 5 clients, 2 guides, 5 sherpas
  RMI	4-10	N/A	$74,000	N/A	2013: 0 out of 3 clients, 2 guides, 3 sherpas
  Peak Freaks	8-15	$49,500	N/A	N/A	2013: 4 out of 8 clients, 2 guides, 8 sherpas In 2017, he does not conduct expeditions to Everest
  7 Summits Club	20	N/A	$65,000	$70,000	2013: 9 out of 13 clients, 1 guide, 9 sherpas 2016: 15 out of 22 clients, 4 guides, 12 sherpas 2017: 11 out of 12 clients, 1 guide, 10 sherpas 2018: 20 out of 22 clients, 6 guides, 33 sherpas
  Summit Climb	5-20	$38,500	N/A	$32,000	227 total ascents (both north and south including clients, guides and sherpas) 2013: 12 out of 12 on the South Side and 11 out of 14 on the North Side 2016: 4 out of 8 clients (south), 10 out of 11 clients (north) 2017: 3 out of 16 clients from the South and 6 out of 10 from the North 2018: 4 out of 8 clients from the South and 10 out of 11 from the North
  Vertical Tour	5-20	N/A	N/A	$46,000	no information
  Nepalese travel agencies
  Adventure Ascent	40,000	N/A	N/A	N/A
  Arnold Coster	N/A	N/A	38.500A	N/A
  Ascent Himalaya	45,000	N/A	N/A	N/A	2017 (south): 8 out of 9 clients, 9 sherpas
  Asian Trekking	20	$36,000	N/A	$32,000	2013 (South): 14 out of 26 clients, 21 Sherpas, 2013 (North): 5 out of 5 clients, 4 Sherpas, 2017: 10 out of 26 clients, 15 sherpas 330 total ascents (clients, sherpas) since 2003
  Arun Treks (India Transcend Adventures)	N/A	N/A	N/A	N/A	2017 (south): 16 out of 25 clients, 21 sherpas
  Dreamers Destinations	8-12	$42 000	N/A	$40 000	2017: 4 out of 5 clients, 4 sherpas
  Seven Summits Treks	30-50	$38,000	N/A	$30,000	2017: 10 out of 23 clients, 5 sherpas
  Satori	N/A	N/A	N/A	N/A	2017: 7 out of 10 clients, 6 sherpas
  Shangri La Nepal Trek	30-50	45,000	N/A	N/A
  TAGnepal	N/A	N/A	$55,000	$52,000	2:1 ratio of clients to certified guides; 1:1 ratio of clients to non-certified guides
  Expedition Himalaya	5-10	35,000	N/A	35,000	2017: 1 out of 6 clients, 1 sherpa
  highland expedition	40,000	N/A	N/A	N/A
  Himalayan Ascent	5-10	42,500	N/A	N/A	2013: 4 clients, 6 sherpas, 2017: 4 clients, 6 sherpas
  Makaluextreme	1-30	35,000	N/A	N/A	2017: 5 out of 6 clients and 5 out of 6 Sherpas 2018: 4 out of 5 clients, 5 guides, 1 sherpa

  . Do you love mountains? Then be sure to check it out:

  Everest - the highest mountain in the world

  Everest (or, as it is called in Nepal, Chomolungma) rises to 8848.43 meters above sea level. Climbing Everest is a real dream for every climber, but, no doubt, also a very dangerous adventure, since a huge number of people died trying to conquer this peak. The highest point on our planet is known today to every schoolchild. But the history of the discovery of Everest and the fate of many brave people who tried to conquer it often remain a mystery to the general public.

  infographics

  The shocking truth

  Resembling in shape a pyramid that has risen many kilometers above sea level due to the movement of lithospheric plates, Everest rises above Asia right on the border of China and Nepal. This peak is rightfully considered one of the most magnificent in beauty, but at the same time, tragic and dangerous places in the world. Its rocky silhouette invariably attracts numerous brave and courageous conquerors who try to reach the summit at the cost of great efforts, and sometimes even at the cost of their own lives. Unfortunately, many climbers have remained forever among the snows and rocky gorges. Over 235 climbers and local residents died while trying to conquer the highest peak of the globe (although the exact number of deaths remains unknown today, because not all of them officially registered their ascent). The difficulty lies not only in the increased atmospheric pressure and rarefied air, which cannot be breathed for a long time, but also in the danger of the route itself. Nevertheless, despite all these difficulties, many people continue to risk their lives in order to spend a few minutes on top of the world. There is something in it that irresistibly attracts brave climbers ...

  

  How much does it cost to climb Everest?

  This question is very popular today. Everyone knows that high-altitude expeditions require not only serious physical and tactical training of the participants, but also considerable investments. The average price is about $30,000 if you go by yourself or with your organized and independent group. Travel companies offer their own expeditions, and the price for their services is about $60,000. The price of a VIP level expedition, which includes permanent Internet access and telephone connection, is often higher than $90,000. In general, it all depends on the guide and the quantity and quality of services included in the package. However, when choosing an instructor and a company, it is important to consider not only the price and image of the company. It is always best to study this issue on your own and very carefully. In particular, it will not be out of place to pay attention to whether the package includes the cost of the flight and the services of Sherpas. The fact is that sometimes you have to pay for the participation of local “helpers” on the spot when you are already at the base camp, therefore, in order to avoid unexpected surprises, it is always better to study the details in advance.

  

  Why so expensive?

  The government of Nepal imposes a mandatory fee on all foreigners who wish to climb Mount Everest. Depending on the size of the group and the time period, the fee can vary from $11,000 to $25,000.

  Many readers will probably be indignant: “Where are these prices from??!” But, on the other hand, judge for yourself: even with such fees on the slopes - tens of tons of garbage; when climbing Everest, more than 200 people died ... Imagine what would happen if this fee was not charged - the number of climbers, of course, would increase dramatically, and the peak would begin to look like something terrible.

  Another important point is the correct selection of the necessary equipment, which also costs a lot of money. The cost of guides, instructors and sherpas often depends on the size of the group, so prices change from year to year.

  

  Everest Facts

  1. Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain chain, is 29,035 feet (8848 meters) high.
  2. A sedentary volcano in the Hawaiian Islands, Mauna Kea ranks first in the ranking of the highest mountains in the world, not counting sea level.
  3. Everest is more than 60 million years old, it was formed due to pushes of the Indian tectonic plate in the direction of the Asian. Due to seismic activity in the region, Everest is about a quarter inch (0.25") taller every year.
  4. The peak is located right on the border line of Nepal to the south and China, also known as Tibet, to the north.
  5. Chomolungma (translated from Tibetan) literally means "holy mother of the universe."
  6. To keep warm, climbers are encouraged to use oxygen at the summit. As for food, it is good to eat a lot of rice and noodles even before the ascent, since you will need a serious supply of energy for such an expedition. On average, climbers burn over 10,000 calories daily, and this number doubles while climbing to the top; throughout the expedition, its participants lose from 10 to 20 pounds of weight.
  7. In the entire history of attempts to conquer the summit, it is officially known that 282 people (including 169 Western climbers and 113 Sherpas) died on Everest from 1924 to August 2015. If we talk about the causes of death, then 102 climbers were injured while trying to climb without the use of additional oxygen. Most of the bodies to this day remain in the snow and gorges, although Chinese officials reported that many bodies were removed. Snowfalls and rockfalls are the most common cause of death, followed by avalanches in second place and altitude sickness in third place.
  8. The youngest person ever to reach the summit is an American high school student named Jordan Romero. He made his ascent at the age of 13, on May 23, 2010 (he climbed the peak from the north side).
  9. 14 climbers managed to cross from one side of the peak to the other.
  10. Wind speeds at the summit can reach 200 miles per hour.
  11. On average, it takes about 40 days to complete the ascent. The fact is that the human body needs some time to get used to being at such an altitude above sea level and acclimatize immediately before climbing.
  12. The first climbers who managed to climb the peak of Everest without the use of additional oxygen in cylinders were Reinold Messner and Peter Hubler (Italy) back in 1978. Later, 193 climbers who followed suit also managed to reach the summit without resorting to additional oxygen (this is 2.7% of all ascents to the peak). There is 66% less oxygen in every breath at the top of Everest than in a breath taken at sea level.
  13. To date, there have been about 7,000 ascents of the peak of Everest, more than 4,000 people have participated in all known routes.
  14. The oldest climber who managed to conquer the mountain was Miura Yuchiro (Japan), who made the ascent at the age of 80 on May 23, 2013.
  15. There are 18 different official climbing routes to the summit of Everest.
  16. The first woman to summit Everest was Japanese climber Janko Tabei (1975).
  17. In order not to fall off rocks and glaciers, climbers use nylon ropes with a diameter of 10 millimeters. Special metal spikes (“cats”) are put on the soles of the boots to prevent slipping. In addition, ice axes are used, which can stop a possible fall on a rocky and icy surface. In terms of clothing, climbers opt for thick suites that are filled with goose feathers.
  18. Sherpas are the collective name for people who live in western Nepal. Initially, several centuries ago, they migrated from Tibet. Today, they help climbers prepare for the ascent by helping carry food, tents, and other supplies to intermediate camps located above the base camp.
  19. Climbers begin using oxygen tanks at 7,925 m (26,000 ft). but in this way only 915 m (3000 ft) of difference is achieved in how they feel. In principle, at an altitude of 8230 m (27,000 ft) a person will feel like at 7315 m (24,000 ft) above sea level, which, in fact, will not make a significant difference in the well-being of climbers.
  20. Peak temperatures can drop as low as -62C (80F below zero).

  

  Story

  Everest appeared on the earth's surface about 60 million years ago. The mountain has a rather long history of "the first climbers", starting with an unsuccessful attempt, which was made back in 1921 by the British expedition of George Mallory and Guy Bullock. Much later, in 1953, the highest peak of the Earth was nevertheless conquered by a brave bunch of Italian climbers Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. The history of ascents and new achievements continues to this day. But the highest peak in the world is not only a vantage point or a serious challenge for climbers, but also home to mountaineers, the Sherpas, who have lived there for over 500 years. This small nation is the best guides and porters for tourists and professionals who decide to defy fate and climb the highest and most difficult peak of our planet to climb.

  Where is Everest located?

  Everest is not only the highest mountain, it is also the highest point located on the border of two countries. The mountain is located between the territories of China and Nepal, but its peak is in China, or rather, in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Everest is part of the Himalayas and is only one of the nine peaks of this mountain range. Interestingly, the Himalayas are made up of the thirty-nine highest high peaks in the world, so Everest has many younger "brothers". Together they form a fence between the plateaus of the Tibetan and Indian subcontinental plates.

  The entire mountain system is located in South Asia and passes through Pakistan, Bhutan, Tibet, India and Nepal. This was the reason that Everest has several names. In Tibet it is called "Chomolungma", the Chinese version of the name is "Shèngmǔ Fēng". The locals in Darjeeling call it "Deodungha" which translates to "Holy Mountain". For many years it was believed that the highest peak of the world is in the Andes, and only in 1852, a mathematician from India was able to open the world to really the highest mountain.

  

  How did he get his name?

  The highest mountain was discovered by George Everest, who served as the Indian General Secretary, in 1841. Since then, the official name that was given to the highest peak of the Earth has come from the name of the discoverer. Prior to this in different countries the peak was called differently, based on local languages ​​and dialects. But since the highest point of the planet should have a single and understandable name for everyone, the name of the one who officially discovered it became recognized at the international level.

  

  What country is Everest in?

  At various points in its history, Everest has been considered part of both China and Nepal. After the annexation in May 1959, relations between Nepal and China became absolutely friendly, and the fact that the border between the countries is at its peak highest mountain world, is a symbolic confirmation of this. Therefore, theoretically, the peak that is closest to space does not belong to one particular country, but is the common property of Nepal and China. Every tourist who decides to at least look at Everest from the outside, not to mention climbing to the top, can choose at his own discretion which side is more convenient to do it. But it is fair to say that the view from Nepal is much more beautiful, and climbing is an order of magnitude easier.

  

  What is the height of Everest?

  Imagine that you live in a world where there is no Mount Everest, it has not yet been discovered, and at school the teacher tells you that the highest mountain is the one called Kanchenjunga, or Dhaulagiri, for example. Even in the 19th century, many were convinced that the highest point on our planet is anything but Everest. Only in 1852 was it confirmed that Everest is the highest point on our planet. The height of the mountain is 8848 meters above sea level and increases by 4 millimeters annually due to plate movement. In addition, earthquakes in Nepal can move Everest and even change its height. So, modern scientists continue to argue that none of the measurements of the height of Everest, either from the Chinese or from the Nepalese side, is correct. Chomolungma continues to grow. The continental plates do not stand still, they are constantly pushing Everest higher and higher.

  Curiously, the exact height of the mountain is still a matter of dispute. Back in 1856, when British explorers first measured the height of the peak with a theodolite, it was recorded as 8,840 m (or 22,002 feet). Currently, the official height of Everest is 8.848 m (29.029 ft). To imagine how high Everest is, it is enough to understand that its highest point is located almost at the level of a fighter plane flight. Therefore, it is not at all surprising that the slopes of this mountain are not inhabited by animals and birds due to high pressure and rarefied air. However, Everest is home to one rare species of spider that hides in the crevices of the mountains. This insect feeds on other frozen insects that get to the top with winds and snow masses.

  

  Neighborhood

  The Everest massif consists of several individual peaks such as Changse at 7,580m (24,870ft), Nuptse at 7,855m (58,772ft) and Lhotse at 8,516m or 27,940ft. At the time of the discovery of these peaks, it was very difficult to measure the height of a mountain peak with accuracy. At that time, special devices called theodolites were used to measure height, the weight of which was more than 500 kg (1.100 pounds), and the forces of 10-15 people were required to move such a device. Several attempts were made to measure the exact height of Mount Everest, and only in 1949, shortly before the first ascent, was it finally possible to obtain accurate data.

  The nearest place where people live is Rongbuk, a Buddhist temple that was founded back in 1902. It was reconstructed not so long ago after complete destruction in the 70s of the last century, during the civil war. Currently, this place becomes the last living quarters on the path of climbers to the top of the world. In Rongbuk, you can stay in a small hotel and even dine in a tiny restaurant.

  

  About height

  For almost three hundred years, the highest known point on Earth was Chimborazo, a volcano in the Andes. Its height is "only" 6.267 meters. In the 19th century, this version was destroyed, as the new champion became known to the world - the peak of Nanda Devi in ​​India with a height of 7.816 meters. It may seem ridiculous, but today Nanda Devi only ranks 23rd in the list of the highest mountains in the world. But there is a reason that the listed peaks were indeed the highest points of the world known at that time: after all, Nepal, which is called the roof of the world for a reason, was closed to everyone for a long time.

  Everest is officially one of the most polluted mountains in the world. due to the lack of infrastructure and the presence of a constant influx of tourists. Numerous groups leave behind a huge amount of garbage, ranging from simple food bags to oxygen tanks and old equipment, which are stored and accumulated for decades on the slopes of this mountain, considered sacred to local residents.

  Scientists are constantly finding the remains of marine life that were fossilized in the structure of rocks 450 million years ago, at a time when the surface of Everest was not yet a peak or mountain, but remained part of the seabed. The Himalayas formed only 60 million years ago. The record holders for visiting the peak of Everest are two Sherpas: Apa Sherpa and Tashi Purba, who managed to climb the peak 21 times, having the opportunity to admire the alpine landscape of the Himalayan mountains from the highest point.

  

  Mortality

  Unfortunately, Mount Everest turned out to be a very difficult place to climb and is rightfully considered one of the most dangerous peaks on Earth. The danger lies in record low temperatures and air with a low oxygen content, frequent landslides and avalanches that took many lives of local residents and climbers who decided to overcome this height. The greatest tragedy in the history of Everest occurred in 2014 when a huge avalanche killed 16 local Nepalese guides. It happened near one of the base camps. The second largest was the tragedy of 1996, when 15 climbers did not return from the ascent.

  These people died for various reasons, some due to the use of inadequate equipment, others due to lack of oxygen in the tanks or unexpected changes in weather conditions that made it impossible to return to the base camp. The third in terms of the number of victims was the unsuccessful expedition of 2011, when 11 people remained forever in the snows of the Himalayan mountains. All of them are buried in the snow and ice of Everest. Avalanches and rockfalls are the most common causes of death on the slopes of Everest.

  

  Everest base camps

  For those who decide to climb Everest, there are, as mentioned earlier, two options - start climbing from China or follow the Nepalese route. In order to get used to atmospheric pressure and acclimatize at altitude, two main base camps are equipped. In any of them, each tourist will be able to spend the necessary amount of time for the body to get used to the new conditions, since acclimatization in this case will help prevent altitude sickness. Both camps have doctors who can advise climbers and assess the health of each before climbing. Staying for some time at the base camp helps to avoid health problems associated with pressure changes.

  The southern camp is located on the Nepal side, and the Northern camp is on the Tibetan (Chinese) side of Everest. Even though the northern camp can be reached even by car during the summer days, the camp on the south side is becoming more and more popular. And, of course, all the inhabitants of the surrounding villages, who were previously engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry, are now fully focused on providing visitors with everything they need. They help in transporting things and supplies to the upper intermediate checkpoints, in cooking, and offer various products. In addition to the main intermediate camps on the way to Everest, there are several others located both before and after the main two. They are intermediate stations on the way to conquer the top of the world.

  The supply of food and equipment to the southern base camp is carried out by Sherpa porters, since transport links in this region are not possible. Food, medicine and everything needed is delivered with the help of yaks, local beasts of burden.

  

  ascent

  If you think that everyone can climb Everest, you just have to really want to, you are very mistaken. Firstly, it is very expensive, about $60,000. Climbing the highest mountain in the world is not just a fun adventure. It is important to understand that this is not an ordinary cozy tourism, but a challenge and the risk of mortal danger. Every year, several tourists die in an attempt to conquer this rocky peak: someone falls into an abyss or a gap between glaciers, someone cannot withstand high temperatures, and someone falls ill with altitude sickness.

  Naturally, for such a difficult test, you will need serious preparation and a huge amount of special equipment: shoes, clothes, tools and gadgets. A large group of experts and assistants are also required for the proper organization of the trip and many years of experience in climbing other peaks. But if we talk about the process itself, then it is, of course, unusually exciting. Regardless of which route you choose, it is recommended that you travel with a Sherpa companion. Today, the region is home to approximately 3,000 Sherpas, all of whom are top-notch guides, helpers, and porters, as well as mountain climbers. In short, the Sherpas are a nation of highlanders. If you've seen the famous photograph of the first human ascent of Everest, you'll understand how amazing, indescribable with words, the feeling at the top can be. As Tenzing Norgay admitted, "I wanted to jump, dance, these were the best feelings in my life, because I stood above the whole world."

  The most popular season to climb Everest is spring. Autumn expeditions are less popular. By far the most popular way to climb Everest is through a guided expedition. This ensures that there is a professional with the group who knows the most reliable route to the top. In addition, you can rely on his knowledge and experience even in the most unpredictable situations, he is a reliable support and support for the group. The guide will be able to explain to the participants everything they need to know before starting the climb, help to choose the necessary equipment and check the physical condition, as well as the state of health of the participants, in advance.

  

  Plan

  The very first step in climbing Everest is to begin proper preparation, including getting serious experience climbing other peaks. These are very important requirements, since such an expedition is quite risky and dangerous and requires certain skills. It starts in one of the base camps (on the southern or northern slope), which is selected depending on the route and climbing plan. So, to get to the base camp, located at an altitude of about 5,000 m (16,000 feet) above sea level, participants will need about a week. Here they can talk to experienced guides, check their physical condition and get some rest before climbing Everest. Then, for an additional fee, climbers can resort to the help of Sherpa mountaineers, who will help bring the necessary equipment, food and oxygen cylinders to intermediate camps.

  How long does it take to climb Everest?

  Of course, climbing to the top of the world does not mean walking along picturesque snow-covered slopes. For less trained climbers and for those who have at least a minimal risk of developing any disease, the acclimatization period at medium altitude (in the base camp at an altitude of 5100 meters above sea level) can in some cases reach 30-40 days. For a whole month you will be surrounded by Sherpas and your companions until your body gets used to the pressure of the atmosphere and the lack of oxygen. Only then can you continue climbing. On average, when it comes to tourist expeditions, the duration of the entire ascent (from the moment you arrive in Kathmandu to being at the highest point on the globe) will be about 60 days. When everything is prepared, it will take about 7 days to climb from the base camp to the summit. After that, another approximately 5 days will be spent on the descent to the base camp.

  

  First person to summit Everest

  Although Edmund Hillary was the first person to set foot on the top of the world, many attempts to climb Everest were made long before him. Back in the twenties, a special expedition of the newly created Everest Committee developed the most optimal ascent routes. It is not surprising that the members of this expedition were the first to set foot on the summit. sacred mountain”, what Everest was for the locals. And yet, two completely different people, Sir Edmund Hillary and Nepalese climber Tenzing Norgay, jointly made the first successful ascent to the summit from the south side and finally managed to find themselves where no man had ever gone before.

  In 1953, when this outstanding event finally happened, China closed Everest to any visits, and the world community allowed no more than one expedition per year. In conditions of low temperatures, constantly tormented by strong gusts of wind, Tenzing and Hillary, despite the need to stay in one place for several days in a row, were still able to conquer highest point planets. Edmund Hillary dedicated his achievement to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, and it was the best gift in honor of a significant event in the UK. Although Hillary and Tenzing spent only 15 minutes on the mountaintop, those 15 minutes today are comparable only to the first steps on the moon.

  The youngest person to ever reach the summit is an American eighth grader from California. He was only 13 years old on the day of the ascent. A resident of Nepal, a 15-year-old girl named Min Kipa Shira, became the second in the ranking of the youngest climbers who managed to conquer Everest. Her ascent was crowned with success in 2003. The oldest man to summit Everest was 80-year-old Miura Yuchiro from Japan, and the oldest woman was Tamae Watanabe from Japan, who climbed at the age of 73.

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