To the Black Sea on auto reports. Road trip to the Black Sea. Start. What is the best way to navigate
In the light of recent events, when our country has embarked on a course of “impotosubstitution”, the question arose of particular relevance - where to relax this summer. After all, most likely, in the next few years, the majority of Russians will not be able to afford European resorts. The resorts of Egypt and Turkey are still closed and it is not known whether they will be open at all.
Thus, the only opportunity to spend a vacation at sea for many Russians is a vacation in the Crimea or the Krasnodar Territory. But getting there is also a challenge. Many of our compatriots do not have the opportunity to buy plane tickets and the only way to get cheap to the Black Sea is by car. This is especially beneficial for companies of three or four people and for travelers.
It is for those who consider a trip to the sea by car as the most acceptable option for recreation and this material has been prepared. We hope that our few tips will help you save time and not waste your nerves on the road.
1. First. First, some information about the most likely route.
Our main route will run from Moscow to Krasnodar. Then the second part - to the Black Sea. For Petersburgers, a third, or rather the first part is added - from St. Petersburg to Moscow.
Distances along the Don highway:
Moscow - Voronezh - 531 km. Highway 4 lanes. A lot of settlements, traffic can be tight. The segment from 48 to 71 km is paid.
Voronezh - Rostov-on-Don - 560 km. Four lane traffic. Only in the area of the city of Pavlovsk and the Tarasovsky point - 2 lanes.
Rostov-on-Don - Krasnodar - 270 km, 4 hours. Four stripes. There are areas to be repaired.
So, the first part of the program is completed - we are in Krasnodar. Further:
From Krasnodar to Novorossiysk - 228 km. The route goes along the sea. The places are picturesque, but the road is broken.
From Krasnodar to Sochi - 290 km, from 5 to 12 hours on the road. In order not to get stuck in a traffic jam, it is better to set the next stopping point on the GPS in front of Krasnodar - Goryachiy Klyuch.
2. Tips for planning an itinerary and possible overnight stays on the way
Roadside infrastructure is well developed along the entire Don highway. Enough equipped places to stop. Toilets are best used at gas stations. At Gazprom gas stations, sometimes you can even find a shower. Many gas stations offer car service, tire fitting and washing.
Experts do not advise leaving Moscow on Saturday morning - you will get stuck in a traffic jam in front of the payment points on the Don highway. The queue can take up to 4 hours. Pay attention to the check so as not to pay twice. The check shows the kilometers you paid for. Therefore, at the intermediate payment point, you should simply show the receipt.
Even leaving Moscow at 3-4 o'clock in the morning, they reach Aksai (a suburb of Rostov-on-Don) only by 2 am. And the further way from Aksai to Krasnodar may take all 10 hours instead of 4 hours.
Experts advise leaving Moscow at 5-6 in the morning to stop at about 18.00 in Millerovo. Here you can organize a complete rest with an overnight stay. And then at 5-6 am again continue the journey to Krasnodar and arrive there at about 2 pm.
The route to Voronezh is considered good, but is calculated for an average speed of 80 km/h. There are many cameras on the road. Better not to speed.
In the Rostov region, due to roads being built and repaired, you will also find quite many kilometers of traffic jams. Try not to overtake trucks in two-lane oncoming traffic.
They have a bad reputation in Adygea, it is better to buy fuel only at stations of well-known brands.
Be careful with parking. Almost all of them in Sochi are paid. Tow trucks work perfectly, so it's not worth the risk.
3. Travel expenses
The network can calculate the distance and gas consumption for the trip. On average, this is about 5 thousand rubles. Overnight on the way - from 2 thousand rubles. in an economy class room with an extra bed for a third or child. On average, the trip will take 2 days with an overnight stay. On food per day per person, you can spend from 800 to 1000 rubles. You can reduce your travel budget a bit by saving on meals.
4. What you need to take with you for a trip by car to the Black Sea
Be sure to collect a first aid kit. Take more funds and medicines than the traffic rules require. Don't forget sunscreen and insect repellant. Take enough drinking water, preferably not in canisters.
You should take a DVR, radar detector and navigator. Take audiobooks, music recordings or comedian concerts on the road. On the Black Sea, the beaches are rocky or rather hot sand, take beach shoes with you. Umbrellas and sun loungers are paid, so umbrellas and beach mats can also be taken from home.
If you get to the Black Sea coast by plane, then 15,000 rubles will be spent on air tickets. during peak tourist season. The cheapest option is a trip to the sea by car in 2019. About 10,000 rubles will be spent on gasoline, and this amount can be divided among several people. Add to this the freedom of movement, the ability to go wherever you want at any time, and the advantages of traveling by sea by car in 2019 are obvious. Consider how to get to the Black Sea by car.
We go to the sea by car: documents
Mandatory documents for a trip to the sea by car in 2019.
- Driver's license
- Vehicle registration certificate
- OSAGO (if the policy ends soon, you can renew online and compare prices and )
Before the trip to the Black Sea by car you need to find out information about the route, find out which cities you need to pass through, and how much time and money it will take to travel.
First part of the journey at sea by car in 2019, everyone has the same - starts in Moscow and ends with the arrival in Krasnodar. The second route runs through Krasnodar, the final destination will be the Black Sea. Travelers from St. Petersburg first need to get to Moscow, and then follow the intended route.
The M-4 "Don" highway is very good, it is not difficult to drive along it to the sea by car. But the road is still long. The route is divided into many sections, some of which are paid. Section M-4 "Don" Moscow - Voronezh - 531 km. Here you will find a 4-lane motorway, many settlements along the way, heavy traffic is possible. Section of the track to the Black Sea by car from 48 to 71 km is paid.
After that we pass Voronezh - Rostov-on-Don. Distance - 560 km, traffic in 4 lanes. In the area of Pavlovsk and the Tarasovsky point, traffic is reduced by two lanes.
Then travel through Rostov-on-Don - Krasnodar, distance - 240 km, travel time 4 hours. Keep in mind that road sections may be undergoing repairs. The number of lanes is four. The first part of the journey is over.
After Timashevsk, a large flow of cars turns towards the Crimea. You can go there too, since it's open Crimean bridge You can drive from Timashevsk to Kerch in 4 hours.
About the same time it takes to get to Gelendzhik. The closest to go to Anapa and Novorossiysk.
Distance from Krasnodar to Novorossiysk is 228 km. The route runs along the sea coast. Despite the bad and broken road, here you can enjoy the picturesque nature.
The longest route at sea by car Krasnodar - Sochi. This is also the most difficult section of the road. Many steep passes, a large accumulation of cars. It will be necessary to cover a distance of 290 km, travel time from 5 to 12 hours.
Tip: in order not to get stuck in a traffic jam before arriving in Krasnodar, we recommend that you set the next destination on your GPS navigator - Goryachiy Klyuch.
On vacation on the Black Sea by car: route and overnight stay
The Don highway has a well-developed infrastructure. On the way to the sea by car, you can make stops, go to the toilet, take a shower, and, if necessary, use the services of a car service or refuel and wash the car. In order not to get into a traffic jam in front of the payment points on the Don highway, you should not leave to the Black Sea by car from Moscow on Saturday early in the morning. Otherwise, you run the risk of being stuck there for 4 hours, waiting for your turn. On the check issued to you, information for paid kilometers is displayed. Therefore, upon arrival at the next checkpoint, just show it so that you do not have to pay twice. Such traffic jams are common, even if you leave Moscow at 3-4 am, it is likely that you will reach the suburb of Rostov-on-Don - the city of Aksay by 2 am. Moreover, the further journey from Aksai to Krasnodar may take 10 instead of 4 hours.
The best way to travel is the following. Departure to the Black Sea by car from Moscow early in the morning at 5-6 am. At about 18.00 we reach Millerovo and make the final stop there. Here you can spend the night and move on with renewed vigor. At 5-6 am we leave and continue our way to Krasnodar. We arrive there around 2:00 pm. Depending on the direction, you will be in Crimea at 18.00, in Anapa and Novorossiysk at 17.00, Gelendzhik at 18.00, in Sochi the last (depending on the time of overcoming the serpentine).
Be careful: video cameras are installed on the highway to Voronezh, so drive at a speed of about 80 km/h. In the Rostov region, there are many tracks with sections of roads being repaired, as well as many kilometers of traffic jams in which you can get stuck.
Do not try to overtake passing trucks in oncoming two-lane traffic. Buy fuel only from brands you know. For example, in Adygea we came across a very low-quality fuel. Do not forget that almost all parking lots in Sochi are paid, so try to follow the rules.
You can generally make a forced march without stopping and get to the Black Sea by car in 1 day. This option is suitable for those traveling to Anapa, Novorossiysk or Kerch. In Sochi it is not the best option, because you will arrive at the serpentines tired and exhausted.
How much does a trip to the Black Sea cost by car
Calculate in advance all the necessary expenses for a trip to the Black Sea by car for gasoline and food, and also take into account the cost of overnight stays. Gasoline consumption can be calculated using the Internet. It will cost about 5000 rubles. one way from Moscow. From St. Petersburg - 7000 rubles. one way. For an overnight stay, choose economy class rooms with an extra bed for a third person or for a child. The cost of living in rooms from 2000 rubles. On the trip you will spend an average of two days with overnight stays. Meals per person will cost from 800 to 1000 rubles, if you eat in a cafe. And 400-500 rubles if you take food with you (you can save a little on this).
For comparison, you can buy for the same 5000-7500 rubles. one way (if tracked in advance). But by car there will be more opportunities and freedom of choice in terms of spending time on the Black Sea.
You can take from 3500 rubles, but the trip is long and tiring.
To the Black Sea by car: what you need to travel to the Black Sea
1. First aid kit. Take as much as possible with you necessary medicines, in addition to the car first aid kit. Travelers with weak vestibular apparatus should take medication in advance and take the necessary medicines with them to avoid motion sickness. While driving on mountain serpentines, there are practically no shoulders, so if someone feels bad, you will have to wait until the next stop.
2. Spray, cream or ointment for insect bites. On the road and on vacation, this is especially important.
3. Be sure to take enough drinking water . It is better to take bottled water, not canisters.
4. DVR, navigator and anti-radar to record everything that happens on the roads - important components of the trip, which will definitely be needed on the way.
5. In order not to get bored on the road, take with you audiobooks, musical recordings or comedy concerts .
6. Pick up suitable shoes . Keep in mind that the beaches on the Black Sea are both rocky and sandy. On vacation, sun loungers and umbrellas are paid, so you can bring these things with you.
A few tips for travelers at sea by car in 2019
1. On an unfamiliar road in a mountainous area, behave carefully, do not exceed the speed limit, otherwise you risk falling off a cliff. It is also not worth driving too slowly, as you will annoy the traffic participants behind you.
2. If you want to see the real blue sea, then you will have to overcome dozens of traffic jams on the federal highway M-27 Dzhubga - Sochi, which is the main road leading to all coastal cities.
3. Do not forget that the biggest and longest traffic jams are formed on Friday after 12 noon, when residents of the Kuban, Rostov region and Adygea are in a hurry to go to the sea for the weekend. The same thing happens on Sunday evening when vacationers leave for home.
4. If your path lies through the city of Tuapse, then there is a possibility that you can get stuck in a traffic jam for three hours. This is because the federal highway passes through the only road along which locals travel from one part of the city to another.
5. It is best to travel at night. However, you need to be an experienced driver, because at night you can meet heavy vehicles and long vehicles on the highway.
6. If a subtropical downpour caught you on the way, it is better to stop and wait for a while. Make a stop in an open area, away from mountain slopes and rivers. If there is no opportunity to stop yet, it is necessary to slow down to reasonable limits, and try not to make sudden maneuvers. In no case do not set up camp, do not stop near the shore mountain rivers. You can be swept out to sea by strong currents. Therefore, wait out the rain in an open area, away from rivers.
7. It is better to buy food and water in large chain stores. In roadside stalls, products are not always fresh, but are quite expensive. Ask the locals where they buy quality and tasty food.
8. Craving fresh fruits and vegetables? Do not take them from merchants along the highway. Often they deceive buyers by passing off goods from Turkey as products of local origin. Often, merchants dress up travelers in the hope that they will never return here again.
As you can see, getting to the Black Sea is not at all difficult. With the opening of the Crimean bridge, it became easier to go on vacation to the Crimea. And if you don’t want to wind through the mountain serpentines in front of Sochi, then you can go to Anapa, Novorossiysk or Gelendzhik. Have a nice trip to the Black Sea by car in 2019!
This year they gave me a ticket to our Black Sea, which contributed to our decision to make another road trip. Actually, the autotravel is banal, probably all those who are fond of it have already made it.
So just in short:
0. Route: Ekaterinburg - Black Sea - Krasnaya Polyana - Sukhum and back with a stop in Arkhipo-Osipovka.
1. The realization came that it makes no sense to rest on the first day and drive the maximum possible distance. Because the start of movement the next day is also shifted. Therefore, I simply divided the distance into 3 parts and booked hotels along the route in advance (back in May) at booking.
I booked the first hotel in some village not far from the highway, I call in the afternoon that I’ll come in the evening, they answered me - “Wow, you are the first one who has been coming to me from booking for two years, I thought it was some kind of mistake and didn’t take it seriously ". We laughed in general.
2. Summer time. It used to be more convenient, it dawned an hour later and it got dark. Now it dawns at 4 in the morning, and you wake up and start moving at 7, when the sun is already high. Lost an extra hour of the day. Don't shift your sleep schedule by an hour for the sake of a trip.
3. It can be seen that the roads are slowly being put in order, there are already fewer road repairs, fewer areas that need repair, the M5 thunderstorm - the Sim pass is passed with a bang. The road from Saratov to Volgograd, on which two years ago we lost most of the day, having traveled only 300 km, is in perfect order and is already being passed quickly.
4. They hung a bunch of signs like "do not litter", "road workers thank you for clean roadsides", etc.
And yes, the roads are clean and you can see that they clean up. But it is worth driving off 5 meters from the road to a halt in the field - there is a fierce srach around. I can’t imagine what drives these people who, after parking, cannot collect their own garbage in a bag and take it to the nearest garbage dump.
5. Traffic jams. They are born and dissolve in an empty place. For example, a broken car is standing on the side of the road, everyone slows down to see in detail what is there and how, all this leads to the fact that they slow down behind it even more and so on until the flow and tail completely stop for several kilometers.
Here again, it is necessary to change the mentality of drivers. Like if you are driving in a stable stream of cars, then if you start to stop this stream, then everything will fall behind you. And if everyone slows down in front of you, then don’t let it stop, slowly, but roll up, then you will spend less time on the start. Think beyond yourself in general.
6. Shell cases. It is not they who are striking, but the drivers who let them back into the row. Isn't it a shame to stand in a traffic jam for a lot of time, and then put the cunning in front of you?
Moreover, I decided to block the roadside in one place, so I got a curse from the next car behind me, which is also in a traffic jam - like why am I preventing normal people from passing, you see they are in a hurry.
7. Dzhubga. Children, look carefully, in 10 minutes we will see the sea, there are 5 kilometers left. In fact, they would potentially have seen, but not after 10 minutes, but after 5 hours, if it had not been dark by that time. This is such a narrow neck both for entering the Black Sea coast and for leaving that it blocks any desire to drive to the sea by car. And so there almost every day, as I understand it.
8. Finally realized his old dream - to drive along the entire coast, from Dzhubga to Sochi. And lucky it happened at night, it only took 3 hours (to Loo).
By the way, back in the afternoon, the road from Sukhum to Arkhipo-Osipovka took the whole day with a break of 4 hours to the water park and lunch in the same Loo.
In general, the dream is realized, the box is ticked.
9. We rebuilt Sochi's road infrastructure for the Olympics, of course it's great. Some tunnels bypassing Sochi and Krasnaya Polyana are worth something. In general, it is a pleasure to drive. Observing the speed limit, of course, because everything is hung with cameras. A couple of times I still exceeded the speed limit, letters of happiness did not come.
I wonder whose budget fell on the maintenance of this infrastructure. As usual, money was invested, the event was held, and then the local authorities are bent on its maintenance. I hope this is not the case in this case.
Impressions of Abkhazia require a separate description:
1. State registration marks. It seems that at first they gave out all the beautiful combinations, then - what was left.
Well, really - every second car has either all three identical letters or numbers, or some other memorable combination.
2. The same half of the cars cannot pass their traffic police, so as not to greet the signal or even stop, exchange a few words with them. Everyone lives on the same collective farm, knows each other and puts this knowledge on display.
3. Complete disregard for other road users - pedestrians. At the crossings, no one lets anyone through, on the sidewalks they park in such a way that they do not leave a passage at all.
One driver / seller of watermelons was especially struck - he blocked absolutely the entire sidewalk and half of the road with his car and watermelons, so that not only pedestrians, but also cars have to go round in the second row. How many we were there - he stood there. And this was the road to the sea, that is, the main flow of people went there.
Not far away a couple of times there was their traffic police, which apparently also considered this normal (apparently they were busy with every second car that gave them a welcome signal).
The country, which has 70% of its income from the resort business, completely lacks the understanding that they should ensure the comfort of vacationers. For some reason, in Bulgaria, for example, there is this understanding, where no one will leave a car at the place where people pass to the sea, and everyone lets everyone through.
And this is not only in terms of transport infrastructure. For 6 days, I only saw a smile from the seller and the words "thank you / please" in only one place.
Just yesterday I watched a report about Abkhazia, where their Minister of Tourism told how they are doing well, what problems they have and how they solve them, I really wanted to write to him that solve the issue with the mentality of people, come up with a national idea that everything is for people and vacationers will start to come to you.
(By the way, the same problem is on the Russian Black Sea coast, but the reasons are different there.)
4. Complete lack of trucks. This makes me happy.
5. Good roads. Perhaps a consequence of the absence of trucks. And mountain roads should be good by default.
6. All cars are clean. This is exactly what is in their blood - the car must be clean.
7. Well, the usual mentality of southern male males is a car, this is not a means of transportation, but a continuation of his masculinity, and the more he flaunts it (the more tinted windows, unnecessary decorations, again numbers, the louder the shit music from shit acoustics) , the more females he thinks he will have. I was there in the Sukhumi monkey nursery - the behavior of males is one to one.
In general, road trips in the European part of Russia have ceased to bring pleasure, because the tracks are loaded with trucks and you no longer get that pleasure from driving, but only strain because of the need to overtake these trucks and stand in traffic jams.
So the next trip is planned in a completely different direction. If suddenly implemented, there will be something to write about.
PS. Since modern information technologies in the face of the Internet have reached grandparents who are not indifferent to their granddaughters, an instagram was started, where all the photos from the trip were quickly merged, for their timely reassurance that everything is fine with us. Find here: http://www.instagram.com/userovitnik/, scroll to the very beginning.
Thank you for your attention!
Our road trip to the Black Sea began with route planning.
We chose the following route:
Moscow - Voronezh - Rostov-on-Don - Krasnodar - | Port Kavkaz - Taman - Anapa - Novorossiysk - Gelendzhik - Tuapse - Sochi - Adler - Krasnaya Polyana |
Four of us traveled in a Volkswagen Golf 4 car
The drivers stocked up on energy drinks and set off. The path, I must say, is not close. Behind the wheel sat 2 people who changed every 5-6 hours.
In general, it must be said that the way there is always much easier to transfer than from there. We arrived in less than a day. The road is good. Somewhere worse, and somewhere better. I have already had the opportunity to twice take a bus to the sea and I remember that along the way you will meet such a city of Yelets, where you will definitely stand for 3-4 hours. This is due to the fact that in Yelets at the exit (or at the entrance) there is a very narrow road and low capacity of the bridge. Nobody is going to solve this problem, so for many years there are huge traffic jams.
Everything else is good.
It so happened that our journey along the coast began not from its extreme western point, not from Port Kavkaz, but from Abrau-Durso. The GPS took us there. Since this was contrary to the plan, we had to turn west and drive towards Taman towards Port.
But since we arrived in Abrau Durso late in the evening and were tired, we had to look for a place to sleep. It was not easy to do this in the dark, but we coped with this task. It was previously agreed that we would spend the night in campsites. The only problem is that campsites are not located at every turn and GPS does not always find them.
But fortunately that night we were lucky and managed to find something like a campsite. True, the tent had to be set up not only in complete darkness, but also on a steep slope. It was pretty funny.
After an unforgettable night, where we constantly had to be on the alert so as not to move down, we immediately drove west, to Port Kavkaz.
Probably in such stories it is impossible not to mention the traffic police officers. Anyone who has been to the Krasnodar Territory knows that there is a significant difference between the Moscow GAI officers and the Krasnodar ones. The latter approach their work so responsibly that when they stop to "check documents", the matter does not end with a check. A couple of times we were stopped for 20 minutes. They checked the numbers, punched through the bases, took away the passports of everyone sitting in the car, arranged interrogations, etc., etc.
Without violations, of course, nowhere. A couple of times they ran out of nowhere and were fined either for driving into the oncoming lane or for exceeding.
So, we have reached the starting point of our journey, Port Kavkaz. Sometimes they drove along the road, on the right side of which was the Black Sea, and on the left - the Sea of Azov.
View of the Crimea
We stayed in Taman to visit Lermontov's house. This is the house (in the background)
The place is pretty picturesque.
Without a museum, of course, nowhere
Our time was limited. Before evening we had to find a campsite and settle in for the night.
When we find a campsite, it's good, but if we manage to find a "wild" place where you can put up a tent and pay nothing to anyone, it's even better. Fortunately, there are many such places in the Taman region.
I emphasize right away that with every kilometer to the east it will be more and more difficult for you to find such a place. After Anapa, mostly only paid campsites. After Tuapse, even in expensive campsites, people sleep on top of each other. There are simply no campsites after Sochi.
So, we successfully settled in for the night. It was the first "normal" night in tents near the Black Sea coast. The place chosen is excellent, but quite open.
By the way, we slept in tents on air mattresses - this is a bit unusual, but comfortable.
Morning work-out
The weather wasn't good this morning
On the road again!
Anapa was next in line.
In Anapa, we decided to go to the cinema, to see Harry Potter 6 :-) After watching the movie, the weather improved and we moved on.
Anapa from the observation platform
It so happened that we bathed very little. In fact, we only swam a couple of times near Gelendzhik. This was due to a busy schedule.
On the way from Anapa to Novorossiysk, we stopped at a wonderful place, the name of which, unfortunately, I forgot. This time we spent the night at the campsite.
At first they could not find normal firewood to make a fire
But here, too, a solution was found. A terrible crack of a breaking fence and, behold, Vasily is already walking with an armful of firewood :-)
After lunch you can relax
But even in such a wonderful place, we could not linger for a long time. The next point on the map was the city of Novorossiysk.
Big enough and beautiful city. There is something to see in Novorossiysk.
After walking and eating ice cream, we drove on to Gelendzhik.
The first thing that catches your eye in Gelendzhik is the drivers who are ready to tear each other apart for a client to rent their apartment / house. Offered almost for free.
In Gelendzhik, we wanted to visit the Zolotaya Bukhta water park and dolmens. Let's start with the second.
If you pass by the dolmens, don't miss it. You have to walk quite a lot, but it's worth it!
The first dolmen is located near the city and is located almost next to the road. There are usually a lot of tourists around.
Don't miss the chance to stand under a real waterfall
And now, after an hour of walking, we reached the dolmens
After the dolmens we returned to our campsite in Kabardinka. By the way, Kabardinka is a wonderful place located near Gelendzhik. If you asked me which place I would choose for a vacation on the Black Sea, then this is it.
The next day we visited the Sail Rock
Aquapark Zolotaya Bukhta ranks first in Russia not only in size, but also in queues. Still had a great time
We knew that after Gelendzhik there would be problems with accommodation, so we left in the direction of Tuapse in advance.
I was in Tuapse about 10 years ago and then it seemed to me that this is the most best city in the world, but now I'm not sure about it. In addition to the fact that Tuapse has the most beautiful girls, I can’t say anything about him. But isn't that enough reason to come back? Is it true? :-)
Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures of the girls, because in Tuapse we stayed literally for an hour to have a bite to eat. Let's go further.
What's next? Next is Sochi. The distance of 120 kilometers between Tuapse and Sochi is overcome in a record 7 hours of driving a truck along a serpentine. The road exhausted us so much that upon arrival in Sochi we only wanted to find a place to spend the night as soon as possible.
But we did not find such a place. I had to go further, to Adler. Nothing there either.
Nothing to do, moved towards Krasnaya Polyana, to the north. It was already late, but fortunately there were kind people who agreed to let us into their private territory, where we settled down. To be honest, that night was one of the worst.
Firstly, the strong fatigue from the road affected, secondly, tension and some kind of dampness were felt. That place, I must say, was, to put it mildly, poorly adapted for spending the night. Reminds me of Bear Grylls' Survive at All Costs.
This is the place
And here is Krasnaya Polyana, where we headed the next morning. Yes, this is where the 2014 Olympic Games will be held.
OK it's all over Now. Our journey has come to an end. And now on the way back.
This very return journey of ours lay through Kabardinka, where we happily settled in our tents and rested before heading home.
Several key aspects can be identified.
First, it's hard. If you don't have a good car with high suspension (!), then it's doubly hard. You need to be mentally prepared for any difficulties, and there will be difficulties.
As a minus, I will note the problems with finding a place to sleep after Tuapse.
There are still minor things that I don’t want to dwell on.
From the pros, I will highlight a large number interesting places, like the same dolmens or Skala-Sail. You won't be bored. Also, this road trip will be relatively inexpensive. If there are four of you, then 10 thousand each and you will surely cover all your expenses. Of course, the approach to the price is purely individual.
On the other hand, you can look at such a journey in different ways. I think it's worth it to try at least once, BUT in my opinion, you need to clearly understand what you want to get. If you need the sea, the sun and relaxing holiday- then it's not for you.
So, in my opinion, the best place to relax on the Black Sea is Kabardinka (not far from Gelendzhik). If you are going but do not know where to go - take a closer look.
I can call this place the most picturesque
OK it's all over Now:-)
Read, leave comments.
See you soon!
The construction of the bridge to the Crimea is in full swing, but this tourist season will still have to make do with ferries. Loading of ferries in the high season is predicted to be very decent. Therefore, we will postpone the visit to the peninsula until better times and consider simpler and faster routes for weekly trips by car to the blue Black Sea.
For the European part of Russia, the main artery connecting the country with the Black Sea resorts is the M4 Don highway, despite the rather long repair section and Rostov traffic jams. A toll highway with restrictions on some segments up to 130 km / h allows you to get from the capital to the Black Sea fork of the M4 highway in just one daylight hours. To do this, however, you will have to leave Moscow around 5 in the morning, but then, even taking into account a couple of stops for lunch and refueling, at dusk you will be in the Dzhubga region, leaving almost one and a half thousand kilometers of roads and 840 rubles behind. for the right to pass through them.
At Dzhubga, where, resting on the Black Sea, the M4 highway diverges in two directions, you have to make a choice: turn left, you will get to Tuapse and Sochi, turn right - you will arrive in Gelendzhik, Novorossiysk and Anapa. For those who do not like to sit in one place and strive to the south, not only to lie on the beach for the whole vacation, we advise you not to go in cycles in one resort, but to slowly ride along the entire coast, stopping for a couple of days in different cities: so are the impressions there will be more, and you will find better beaches. Today we will consider the "eastern wing" of the coast - from Dzhubga to Anapa or vice versa. When choosing this route for traveling by car, it is best, without going down to the Dzhubga fork, immediately after Krasnodar turn onto the A146 highway, thus shortening the path through the infamous Krymsk.
AT last years in Anapa, a huge number of private mini-hotels of various levels have grown. Competition is high, and due to this, prices, even in season, are quite acceptable. This attracts a huge number of budget tourists to Anapa, and the beaches are packed during the season almost like in Soviet-era resort movies - there is nowhere to set foot. At the same time, the quality of rest leaves much to be desired: water in shallow water and in estuaries blooms in places and is very saturated with bacteria. You should definitely go and admire the dunes of the Vityazevsky estuary (in the season, entry to the coastal spit is paid - 200 rubles), but you should not stay here for a long time: there are more interesting places on the coast that are not so overpopulated by horseless tourists.
Leaving Anapa along the coast to the east towards Novorossiysk, in half an hour you will find yourself in the area of the reserved Lake Sukko with its swamp cypresses and the famous Cape Utrish. Here you can visit the dolphinarium (however, there are still many of them on our way along the sea), swim and have a bite to eat. Lots of restaurants and eateries. Fort Utrish is the most expensive and pretentious place with a wonderful view and very low-budget dishes.
Logically, the next stop on our Black Sea route should be "Russian Champagne" - the famous wine-growing region of AbrauDyurso. If you are traveling by car, there is only one way to get there - returning to the highway, and then turning south again before Novorossiysk. For those who have an SUV or crossover at their disposal, there is an alternative beautiful route through the Utrishsky Reserve. The road is very bad, but it passes through relic forests, gorges and deserted beaches with a fairly clear sea. You just need to be prepared for the fact that the 40 km journey to Abrau will stretch for you for almost three and a half hours and will not be the easiest test for the suspension of any SUV.
But here, among the greenery, the blue expanse of Lake Abrau appears. Over the past few years, many private, mostly budget hotels have also been built in the vicinity of the lake: for the most part - in the villages at the exit from AbrauDyurso towards Novorossiysk. But if you want to relax in comfort, drinking elite varieties of local sparkling wines by the pool overlooking the lake, it is better to book a room at the Imperial Hotel & Champagne Spa, the location and level of service fully justifies every word of its long name. In general, it would be quite logical to stay in Abrau for a couple of days: drink sparkling and still wines, ride through the vineyards, go to the lotus lake ... And then - go further east through Novorossiysk towards Gelendzhik.
In Novorossiysk itself, you should definitely stop by the sea terminal, where you can visit the cruiser Mikhail Kutuzov, which has been laid up here for 15 years. However, there is a problem with parking lots in the waterfront area: you have to wind up several circles to find a place where to park your car.
A tour of the factory and the historical complex of Abrau-Durso usually ends with a tasting of elite varieties of sparkling wines, so it is better to go to Abrau overnight
But most of the other monuments and sights of the city (mostly related to its heroic past) are located right along the road leading to Gelendzhik. On the Novorossiysk serpentine, at the exit from the city, there are two observation platforms with wonderful views of the Tsemesskaya Bay. The second one is especially noteworthy, with a grandiose granite memorial to the "Sailors of the Revolution", who in June 1918 sank 16 ships of the Black Sea Fleet in the Tsemess Bay so as not to transfer them to Germany according to the Brest Treaty. Along with Tsushima, this episode became one of the darkest pages in the history of the Russian fleet in the 20th century.
Arrows with ship profiles indicate directions and distances to those places in the Tsemess Bay...
Where the ships of the Black Sea Fleet were sunk in the summer of 1918
On the parapet of the observation deck there are bronze arrows indicating the direction and distance to each sunken ship.
Behind the memorial, the Novorossiysk serpentine passes into a more or less straight section of the Don highway, and after 15–20 minutes you are greeted by the inscription “Resort City of Gelendzhik” and a rather strict traffic police post: just in case, be prepared to “breathe into a tube”.
Gelendzhik has been actively built up with modern buildings in recent years and is gradually flourishing. However, it is pleasant to come here out of season, in April-May. In the season, teeming with people and buzzing like a beehive, Gelendzhik, frankly, is far from Rio de Janeiro. With the blue dream of the Great Combinator, he is related only by the dirty sea in the bay. Locals in the port bay never swim, preferring to take sea baths outside the city, on cleaner beaches. But horseless tourists in the bay are a dime a dozen: few people are embarrassed by dirt and infections during the season.
The best hotel in the city - Kempinski Grand Hotel boasts a huge well-groomed territory, a good spa and its own beach, the sea on which, however, is as “clean” as in the entire bay. There are simpler and cheaper hotels, and among them you can find very European and high-quality ones. One of the benchmarks in the middle price segment is the new modern hotel "More", which was opened only last autumn. There are quite a few restaurants on the embankment for almost any budget, there is a huge amusement park, a petting zoo ... but because of the dirty sea in the bay, we still do not recommend staying in the city for a long time. Leave it to be plundered by horseless tourists and go further east along the winding but beautiful section of the Don highway towards Dzhubga.
In recent years, this section of the road is gradually overgrown with quite a decent infrastructure. There are good cafes and barbecue places along the roadsides, where you can have an inexpensive and tasty snack. A few kilometers before Pshad, on the right side, there is a complex of Gelendzhik dolmens. In general, there are a lot of dolmens in this area, there are even special “dolmen tours”. But most of them are located in the mountains, sometimes at a decent distance from the road. These are standing at the very track: it’s just a sin to pass by. Then you can turn to Arkhipo-Osipovka: swim again, visit a crocodile farm and another dolphinarium, if by that time you are not completely tired of them.
But now is Dzhubga, and with it the crossroads of the M4 Don highway already known to us. If you go to the right, you will get to Tuapse, Sochi and Abkhazia. If there is one more free week, why not take a ride to the Olympic capital, or even to Sukhum. Turn left - you will get to Moscow: one light day of travel, and you will again find yourself in Belokamennaya ...
Gelendzhik is flourishing more and more every year: hotels are being built, infrastructure is expanding, but the sea in the bay is still dirty, locals do not swim here ...
Travel calculator to the Black Sea |
|
| Transport and accommodation | |
| The cost of the hotel / hotel (double room), rub. | from 2000 |
| Average bill in a restaurant, p. | 1000 |
| Road (Skoda Superb car) | |
| Total travel time, h | 48:28 |
| Route length, km | 3250 |
| Average fuel consumption, l/100 km | 10,2 |
| Fuel cost, r./l | 40 |
| Max. permitted speed, km/h | 130 |
| Max. permissible level of alcohol, ppm | up to 0.3 |