“Oh, Genoa, you are wonderful!” I exclaimed, looking out of the window of a taxi on the way from Christopher Columbus Airport one crisp autumn evening.

Genoa (Italian Genova), once a great maritime power, and now a most beautiful port city, is the capital of the region located in northern Italy.

From the very first steps I felt that the city was magical, unusual, different... It conceals many secrets and is fully revealed only to especially curious travelers. The alluring narrow streets of the Old Town, multi-level colorful houses that seem to be climbing the mountain slopes towards the rays of the gentle Italian sun, the luxury of palaces and medieval cathedrals, amazing panoramic views, the largest port... this is all Genoa, mysterious, enchanting.

After visiting Rome, Milan, Venice, Bologna, Florence and other major and small towns It seemed to Italy that nothing in Italy could surprise me. How wrong I was! Don't believe me? Then it's time to buy tickets to Genoa and pack your suitcase! Get ready for an exciting journey in a time machine!

Short video about Genoa

How to get there

The first question that a traveler faces after choosing a city is how to get to the desired place.

Getting to Genoa is not difficult at all. Air, land, sea route? It's up to you to decide, because you can get to Genoa using any of the listed methods.

So, ciao Genova!

By plane

• You can also see convenient flights with transfers in Munich, Rome and other cities. A long layover in another country can be a real adventure and a great start to an exciting journey! Also, connecting flights are an economical option for those planning a trip at the last minute when prices for direct flights are already too high.

As you approach Genoa airport, the plane window offers stunning views of the endless blue sea and mysterious mountain peaks.

Christopher Columbus Airport is located very close to the city, so getting to the center of Genoa is not difficult.

From Genoa airport to the city You can get there in the following ways:

By train

• For those who are already in Italy or France. In general, the train system in Italy is quite convenient: you can quickly get to Genoa using Trenitalia trains. For example, if you nevertheless flew with Pobeda to Milan airport (), trains depart from Milan Central Station daily from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. and arrive in Genoa at Piazza Principe. The journey takes approximately 1.5-2 hours depending on the type of train, and tickets cost from 13.45 EUR one way. From Pisa and other cities you can also use the services of this carrier.

There are different types of Trenitalia trains:

• high-speed “arrow” trains – Frecciarossa, Frecciargento, Frecciabianca;
• Intercity and night InterCityNotte trains making significantly more stops;
• international Eurocity trains;
• "Electric trains" Regionale.

Depending on the type of train, ticket prices, travel time, and degree of comfort vary. The schedule and all the necessary information can be checked.

A novice tourist may face some dangers and unpleasant “surprises”. Therefore, observe the following rules:

• after purchasing, do not forget to validate the ticket in a special machine at the station or when exiting the station, otherwise it will be invalid;
• check the board every minute for the platform number from which your train departs, as it can change literally at the last moment, and the information will most likely be provided only in Italian;
• When making connections or arriving/departing, be sure to take tickets with plenty of time, as:

1. in Italy they love strikes;
2. sometimes it is difficult to quickly find a ticket composting machine;
3. Trains do not always arrive at their destination at the scheduled time.

There are two main train stations in Genoa:

• Genova Piazza Principe - the main station, located in Piazza Acquaverde (2 km west of Piazza de Ferrari);
• Genova Brignole is the second most important, located in Piazza Verde (1 km east of Piazza de Ferrari).

In addition to the convenient location of the stations, they are relatively clean and safe.

By bus

There are no buses from Moscow and St. Petersburg to Genoa.

However, once you are in Europe, you can take a bus, which will serve as a good alternative to traveling by train. The journey by bus will take longer, but you can save significantly. Therefore, when I’m not in a particular hurry, I confidently book a ticket on the website of the German company FlixBus, which in 2016 became the most popular and economical carrier in Italy, creating a network bus routes throughout Italy from north to south and from west to east.

Thanks to a developed network of bus routes, Genoa can be reached from different countries Europe and Italian cities. For example, comfortable buses, equipped with wi-fi and sockets, depart daily from 8 am to 20:30 from Milan and arrive in Genoa in 2 hours either at the Principe Fanti d'Italia bus station or at Piazza della Vittoria. Ticket price - from 5 EUR.

By car

The route from Moscow and St. Petersburg to Genoa by car is not long - the distance between Russian cities and the city located on the Ligurian coast is almost 3 thousand km. Thus, traveling by car only makes sense if you are planning a tour of other European cities.

From Moscow:

From Saint-Petersburg:

Motorways to get to Genoa:

• A7 – () - Genoa
• A10 – Vertimiglia (7 km from the border with France, west of San Remo) - Genoa
• A12 – (Lazio) - Genoa
• A26 – Gravellona Toce () - Genoa

Motorists need to be prepared for numerous tunnels dug into the rocks (hopefully you are not claustrophobic), narrow and winding roads, as well as stunningly beautiful views from the car window.

Disadvantages of a car to Genoa:

• expensive - toll roads and the high cost of gasoline;
• dangerous - difficult mountain roads;
• long - traffic jams and difficulties with parking (before your trip, check the website for the addresses of parking lots in Genoa, including underground ones).

GRANDI NAVI VELOCI ferries operate in the following directions:

• Porto Torres () - Genoa, travel time 12 hours;
• () - Genoa, travel time 20.5 hours;
• - Genoa, travel time 21 hours;
• - Genoa, travel time 17.5 hours;
• - Genoa, travel time 49.5 hours with a stop in the port of Barcelona.

Flights to these destinations depart several times a week. You can find out the schedule, cost and purchase a ticket online on the website.

Clue:

Genoa - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 1

Kazan 1

Samara 2

Ekaterinburg 3

Novosibirsk 5

Vladivostok 8

When is the season? When is the best time to go

If you are going to stay longer, rent an apartment; you can familiarize yourself with the options as follows.

I stayed at the Hotel Bristol Palace (Via XX Settembre, 35) and highly recommend it!

It has an excellent location - 100 meters from Piazza De Ferrari and 3 minutes from the House of Columbus (you couldn't imagine a better place!), but this is not its main advantage.

When staying at Bristol Palace, in addition to a good view from the room window, you get the feeling that time has suddenly turned back and transported you several centuries into the past.

Ancient luxury, bas-reliefs on the ceilings, carpets, a stunning spiral staircase allow you to feel the whole atmosphere of the medieval city.

Here you will feel like a real aristocrat!

What are the prices for holidays?

The official currency of Italy is the euro, so before your trip, make sure to buy euros from one of the Russian banks.

In Genoa, you can pay by card in almost all hotels, bars and restaurants. The exception is usually newspaper and other kiosks, sometimes ticket offices, and some souvenir shops set a minimum amount with which you can pay by card (about 15 EUR, or 900 rubles). Thus, it is better to always carry cash with you.

The average salary in Genoa is approximately 1,500 EUR (90,000 thousand rubles), and therefore, in general, prices here are higher than in Moscow and other Russian cities. First of all, this concerns prices for cigarettes (about 5 EUR per 1 pack), for travel on public transport (1.5 EUR per 1 ticket) and taxis, for gasoline (more than 1.5 EUR per 1 liter), prices in restaurants and for food in supermarkets.

However, for example, prices for clothes, accessories, shoes, and leather goods in Genoa are not very different from prices in Moscow stores, and the quality of “Made in Italy” items is usually higher. It is especially profitable to buy clothes during sales months (January-February and July-August).

Genoa has high prices for utilities. Heating fees in old Italian apartments with high ceilings can reach 1000 EUR per month (60,000 thousand rubles), so if you are going to rent an apartment in winter, be sure to check whether utility bills are included in the rent.

Clue:

Cost of food, accommodation, transportation and other things

Currency: Euro, € US Dollar, $ Russian Ruble, Rub

Main attractions. What to see

In Genoa, attractions are literally at every turn! The city will appeal to everyone and absolutely everyone, regardless of the weather.

In warm and sunny weather, lovers of long walks and fresh air can spend hours wandering through narrow medieval streets, a beautiful long embankment, observation decks and parks.
On a rainy and windy day, you can take refuge in museums, cathedrals, palaces and numerous shops.

Top 5

MUST SEE! What you simply cannot pass by in Genoa:

1. Genoese lighthouse La Lanterna (La Lanterna di Genova). The symbol of the city, lighting the way for ships for almost nine centuries (since 1128). The path from the center and from the nearest metro to the lighthouse is not long, but be sure to take a walk on a pleasant sunny day and take a few photos against its background. On weekends and holidays from 14:30 to 18:30 you can climb the lighthouse (though only to its middle) and admire the wonderful panoramic view of Genoa by purchasing a ticket for 6 EUR, the price includes admission to the museum and park. All information can be checked at.
   
2. Columbus House (Casa di Colombo). Don’t miss the opportunity to take a photo against the backdrop of the main pride of any Genoese - the house in which Christopher Columbus himself was born. Although there is still debate about the place of his birth, there is a mysterious and majestic atmosphere of history near the Columbus House. If you find yourself in Genoa on October 12 - Columbus Day - be sure to visit inside. Although the museum is open on other days, you can check the schedule. Address: Via di Porta Soprana. Next to the Columbus House is the largest moped parking lot imaginable. It looks especially interesting against the backdrop of the Porta Soprana gate, the entrance to medieval Genoa. By the way, you can climb the towers; there is a wonderful view from there.
   
3. Cathedral of San Lorenzo (Cattedrale di San Lorenzo). One of the most beautiful and majestic cathedrals in Italy, a religious and historical center. Open daily from 8:00 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 19:00.
   
4. Palazzi dei Rolli is a complex of grandiose ancient palaces of the Genoese aristocracy, stunning buildings with amazing architecture, located on Via Garibaldi and Via Balbi. The complex includes 42 multi-storey palaces built on a small area. The most popular among tourists are Palazzo Bianco (White Palace), which houses an art gallery inside, Palazzo Rosso (Red Palace) with an art gallery, stunning interiors and the opportunity to go to the roof, Royal Palace Palazzo Reale (Palazzo Reale) ), Ducal Palace Palazzo Ducale. Everything inside is amazing - the luxury, the size of the stairs, mirrors, magical courtyards. The location of the palaces can be viewed using. Two or three times a year, the palaces of Genoa open their doors to tourists completely free of charge on the so-called “rolli days”, which last two days (Saturday and Sunday). In 2017, “rolli days” will be held on April 1-2 from 9:00 to 19:30, as well as on October 14 and 15. More detailed information on the palaces can be found.
   
5. Aquarium of Genoa (Acquario di Genova). A place where adults will feel like big kids! For 2-3 hours (which is how much it takes on average to visit the aquarium), visitors are immersed in a wonderful world. Although the pleasure is not cheap (entrance ticket for adults will cost 25 EUR, for children 4-12 years old - 15 EUR, it is undoubtedly worth it. A visit to the largest aquarium in Italy and the second largest in Europe (after L'Oceanografic in Valencia) is a mandatory item on the program of many tourists coming to Genoa, so in order not to waste time in line to purchase tickets, it is better to purchase them online on the official website... In addition, there are sometimes discounts and special offers for tickets purchased online.Opening hours - from 9 :00 to 20:00, last entry at 18:00, address – Area Porto Antico (Ponte Spinola).
   

Beaches. Which ones are better

The picturesque Italian Riviera is conventionally divided by Genoa into the Western Riviera di Ponente (from the border with France) with sandy beaches and the rocky Eastern Riviera di Levante (to Tuscany) with pebble beaches.

Genoa stretches along the coast of the Ligurian Sea for about 30 km; people usually don’t go to the city to swim. This is due to the following reasons:

• Genoa is a port city, and therefore, depending on the number of ships, the water may be dirty;
• there are practically no convenient entries into the water, since the coast is rocky;
• in the immediate vicinity of Genoa there are more equipped and picturesque places for a beach holiday.

If you're in Genoa and want to take a dip, check out the full list of city beaches and their locations. On the city beaches of Genoa, located in the areas of Vesima, Voltri-S Ambrogio, Pegli-Giardini Peragallo, Multedo, Punta Vagno, Via Forte di S Giuliano, Priaruggia and Quinto, from June 15 to September 15, swimmers can use the changing room free of charge, shower, toilet. The best of them are the small beaches of the Quarto, Quinto Sturla and Nervi areas. You can also visit the Bagni Scogliera di Nervi (Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, 10) and Bagni San Nazaro (Corso Italia, 5) complexes, be sure to check their opening hours before visiting.

However, I advise you to choose a place for swimming not in the city, but 30 km from it, where you can get there by train in 40-50 minutes. For example, in Recco (20 km), Camogli (24 km), Rapallo (28 km), in the Gulf of Tigullio (30 km), in (40 km), Lavagna (45 km), Sestri Levante ( 50 km).

The most beautiful beaches of the Italian Riviera are:

• Balzi Rossi beach - on the border with France, 170 km from Genoa;
• Finale Ligure beach - 76 km west of Genoa;
• Baia dei Saraceni beach - 70 km west of Genoa;
• Levanto Beach - 80 km east of Genoa.

Parks

Nervi Parks (Parchi Nervi) – historical natural complex with exotic and tropical plants. Palms, cedars, maritime pines, olive trees and olianders are just a few of the trees that can be seen in this lovely botanical garden.

On its territory there are Villa Gropallo, Villa Serra, Villa Grimaldi, Villa Luxoro, a delightful rose garden, museums, and a zoo. A visit to the green island of nature of the city of Genoa is ideal for those who want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and the crowds of tourists and allow you to enjoy peace and quiet.

By the way, on the territory there is an excellent children's playground with all kinds of slides, so the children will be delighted!

It can take a whole day to explore the park, so you can have a picnic on the grass, basking in the gentle Italian sun.

How to get to the Nervi Parks, as well as the location of the villas and other things can be seen on the map:
Also worth a visit:

• Durazzo Pallavicini Park in Peglia (Parco di Villa Durazzo Pallavicini)

All information about opening hours, costs and travel can be found on, translated even into Russian.

• City Park of the Walls and Fortress (Il Parco Urbano delle Mura e i Forti)

What to see in 1 day

One day, of course, is not enough to fully enjoy the beauty of Genoa. If there is no opportunity to stay in the city, I suggest you the following route:

• We look at the Casa di Colombo located 5 minutes from the square (*4), pass through Porta Soprana into the medieval part of the city and go to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo (*5).
• Until 12:00 we wander through the tiny streets of the Old Town, called “vicoli” in Italian and “caruggi” in the local dialect (*6);

• by 13:00 we go up to the observation deck with a 360-degree view of Belvedere Montaldo (Spianata Castelletto) (*8);

• or take the funicular to Monte Riga (Funicolare Zecca-Righi) (*9);

• Next stop is the Genoese lighthouse La Lanterna (*10). It is located far away (about 1 hour on foot), so it is better to order a taxi, which will take you about 15 minutes. We take a photo with the lighthouse in the background and try the whole variety of Genoese cuisine in a trattoria nearby.
• Around 17:00 we reach the old port of Porto Antico with the pirate ship Galeone Neptune (*11). The journey on foot will take 40 minutes, by taxi – 10 minutes;

• If you are still full of energy for a further walk, the promenade of Genoa - Corso Italia (*12) awaits you;

• Corso Italia leads to the fishing district of Boccadasse (*13) with colorful houses and wonderful views of the bay. However, you can also get there by taxi in 20 minutes, or walk in about 1.5 hours.

• There, watch the sunset with an aperitif in a bar with stunning sea views or dine in a seafood restaurant. Then order a taxi to the station and set off on your journey towards new emotions and impressions!

What to see in the area

Genoa is located close to such magical places as:

• fishing town of Portofino – 35 km from Genoa

• National Park (Cinque Terre) - 80 km from Genoa

Other modes of transport

• Genoa has 10 elevators that run up the hills and connect the city center with the picturesque hilly countryside.
• Another important means of transport connecting the center with the Genoese hills is the funicular. There are 2 of them in Genoa: Sant’Anna and Zecca-Righi.

• There is 1 sea line in Genoa called Navebus, which literally translates as “ship-bus”. It connects the Old Port (Porto Antico) and the Pegli area (Ponente) by sea. Navebus allows you to reach the city center from the west in less than 30 minutes, avoiding traffic jams and enjoying stunning views of the city.

Buying tickets

Take care in advance to purchase a ticket at newspaper or tobacco kiosks, or at special machines at bus stops, since you cannot buy them from the driver.

A one-time ticket costs 1.50 EUR and is valid for 100 minutes on the entire city network, while a ticket for 1.60 EUR will allow you to use the city railway network. The fine for traveling without a ticket is 40 EUR.

There are also tourist tickets that can be purchased at special tourist information offices (IAT) or vending machines: Genova Pass - a ticket that is valid for 24 hours and costs 4.50 EUR, “Genova Pass x 4”, weekly and monthly passes.

Genoa - holidays with children

Genoa is a good place to relax with children: it is safe to walk on the streets and in green parks and villas, and the weather is comfortable in any season.

The aquarium (which I talked about above) will definitely not leave your child indifferent, and the “City for Children” (La citta` dei bambini e dei ragazzi) will make his stay in Genoa unforgettable! In the complex, 50 interactive and multimedia stands are open for children from 2 to 13 years old, where young visitors, while playing and having fun, study science and technology. Detailed information about the “City for Children”, the cost of visiting and the opening hours of the complex can be found on the website.

Among other things, little robbers will be delighted with the many types of sweets and amazingly delicious Italian ice cream.

The only thing to be wary of is difficult entry into the water and rocks in the sea, so pay special attention to your children while swimming in the Ligurian Sea.

Have an unforgettable holiday!

Brilliant Genoa should be seen at least once in your life. After all, this is a powerful maritime power, the main competitor of the Most Serene Venice, whose influence reached the Crimea. Does everyone remember the Genoese fortress in Sudak?

It is the birthplace of figures such as Christopher Columbus and Giuseppe Mazzini. One is a navigator and discoverer of America, the second is a famous Italian politician, philosopher and writer. It was here that the first banks appeared, and Great Britain itself adopted the flag of the republic. Genoa was the first in many ways, and in many ways continues to be. La Superba, which means “magnificent,” continues to worthily maintain the brand of an influential maritime city that has always decided everything on its own.

In the photo: Piazza de Ferrari in Genoa

The largest port in the Mediterranean received the status of European Capital of Culture in 2004. It's an honor, isn't it? Residents of Genoa are rightfully proud of the historical center of their city, narrow alleys where everything mixes: bright flower markets, colorful houses, spectacular palaces, darkened sculptures, charming churches.

It won’t be difficult to meet representatives of the oldest profession here, attracting clients and appearing here and there at any time of the day. The mixture of cultures, traditions and peoples has given Genoa a unique character that cannot be found anywhere else.

HISTORICAL LAYOUTS

The city's name comes from the word ianua, which means door in Latin. And, indeed, the inhabitants of this city managed to open the doors to power, wealth and influence, but at first many owners changed here: there were Greeks, Romans, and Ligurians, and then the city was destroyed by Carthage. Then there were the Byzantines, Franks, Saracens and Lombards, and, finally, from the 10th century, Genoa - the most important port of the Mediterranean, enjoying indisputable respect. The victory over its blood enemy Venice gave Genoa unprecedented prosperity and prosperity, as did the alliance with Spain, thanks to which the most important geographical discovery took place at the turn of the 15th - 16th centuries. And in the center of it was the Genoese - Christopher Columbus.

ENGLISH FLAG

Surprisingly, Great Britain also owes a lot to Genoa. For example, the official flag. How did this happen? The Republic had a powerful fleet and even pirates were afraid to approach its ships. Noticing from afar a flag with a red cross on a white background, signifying the Passion of Christ and Christianity in general, many preferred not to engage in battle and get out as quickly as possible. It was well known that not everyone could deal with the all-powerful Genoa.

England did not fail to take advantage of this, because its forces at that time were significantly inferior to those of the Genoese. She offered a handsome sum for the use of a red and white standard on her ships to avoid attacks at sea. Practical Genoa could not refuse such an offer and gave Great Britain the opportunity to use its flag. However, it is worth saying that over time the British flag was supplemented with new details: the Cross of St. Andrew the Apostle and the Cross of St. Patrick, but the basis of the flag originated precisely from the Ligurian shores.

LIVE BY THE SEA

Genoa and the sea are united forever. The theme of water is still relevant here today, which is confirmed by the presence of an old and a new port with a countless number of ships, and in the city there is also a huge Aquarium with 5,000 inhabitants, a Museum of Navigation, the Maritime Museum of Galata and, of course, one cannot fail to mention the real symbol of the city - the Laterna Lighthouse. It was built in the 12th century, and always illuminated the path for sailors returning to their home harbor. Today you can climb the lighthouse to admire the city from a bird's eye view.

Not far away, in the Bay of San Fruttoso, there is a unique underwater attraction - a statue of Christ, called “Christ from the Abyss,” installed on the seabed at a depth of 17 meters and attracting divers and snorkelers.

CHURCH PROPERTY

Start your acquaintance with the city by visiting the local churches - very impressive and rich. San Lorenzo keeps the legendary Holy Grail (more precisely, one of the contenders for the title of the very cup from which Christ drank), the Jesuit temple dedicated to Andrew and Ambrose will delight you with two masterpieces by Peter Paul Rubens, and the Armenian Church of Bartholomew is famous for its ancient relic - the Image Miraculous The Savior, according to legend, brought from Edessa to Constantinople.

In the photo: Cathedral of St. Lorenzo in Genoa

To admire the snow-white sculpture, check out the small church of San Pietro in Banchi, which was built with the money of local shopkeepers and merchants, and history buffs should visit Santo Stefano and San Matteo. In the first, Christopher Columbus was baptized, and the second church became the resting place of Andrea Doria, an admiral from the famous aristocratic family of Genoa, who earned the title “Liberator and Father of the Fatherland.”

In the photo: Church of Santo Stefano in Genoa

Another important religious site is the Commenda San Giovanni di Pre, a complex consisting of churches, a hospital and a monastery that was associated with crusaders, pilgrims, pontiffs and even the mysterious Order of Malta.

WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO SEE IN THE CITY?

Port Genoa is full of real treasures. Start with the city's crown jewel, Via Garibaldi and the Palazzi dei Rolli, both a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These are the residences of wealthy aristocrats, the most influential people of the republic, who could afford to build pompous buildings. In one of the mansions - Palazzo Tursi - personal belongings of Paganini himself and his Canone violin, made in Cremona - the birthplace of Stradivari, in the most violin-producing city in Italy - are displayed.

From the 11th to the 19th centuries, Genoa managed to be the capital of a maritime republic, the banking center of Europe and, finally, the largest port of the continent. During this time, she accumulated untold wealth - back in the 19th century, Wagner, Flaubert and Dickens admired her beauty and luxury. But then the city switched to heavy industry, and travelers forgot about it for a long time. Today, factories have been moved beyond its borders, the Old Port is being rebuilt into lofts... The time has come to rediscover Proud Genoa (La Superba), as this city was once called by friends and enemies.

Direct flights from Moscow to Genoa are only available in the summer, and at other times you have to fly there via Milan. However, on the day I arrived, it would still have been impossible to land the plane in Genoa: there was a terrible 10-force storm in the bay, and fish lay on the broken runway. It was on the front pages of all the Italian newspapers... In Boccadassa, a fishing suburb of Genoa, which I visited the next day, the pebbles were strewn with splinters and debris, many boats had been swept out to sea. Several small yachts were washed away there - recently this picturesque area has become popular with the rich.

Gathered in a bar, local residents discussed the losses. They said that in a neighboring village even a small swimming pool was washed away from the shore - it was torn off the ground and carried away somewhere along with several garbage cans. The pool had just been built, and the workers had not even been paid yet. Now it’s unclear what to pay for...

However, this is almost the only day when everyone in Genoa talks about the sea: in fact, for many years it has not played the same role in its life - neither in the economy, nor in society. It's hard to believe that Genoa was once a great maritime republic. Today it doesn't even look like a seaside city like Naples, Marseille or Odessa. There’s not even a specific smell here, just as you can’t hear the whistles of ships and hardly see seagulls. The old embankment, Ripa, today is located quite far from the water - there is a huge overpass between them.

City of floors

But the Old Town has partly retained the same spirit: it really gives the impression of being very old, despite the recent renovations of facades and renovations, and the streets here are indeed very narrow and quite busy. Ripa itself is built up with six to eight-story buildings, based on merchant houses of the 13th century (then they were built on many more times). Parallel to the embankment is a street with the short name Pre, an undisturbed Middle Ages, unexpected and everyday.

This area has been safe for tourists for twenty years, although immediately upon arrival they hinted to me several times: it’s better not to go there in the evenings, as they “rob you and take everything away.” I asked sociologist Alessandro Dal Lago about this, who recently published a bestseller about the criminal life of Italian cities: he took almost all his examples from the streets of Genoa in the 1970s-1990s. Dal Lago said that its old center was once considered one of the most dangerous places in the country, because after the war it was abandoned and left to the port. “But even this is an exaggeration. There were more dangerous places back then: Bari, Naples, for example... Well, after the recent reconstruction, the Old Town was completely transformed.” However, in some alleys near the Church of Santa Maddalena in the evenings you really feel uneasy - there is a lonely lantern, the windows are tightly shuttered... You involuntarily speed up your step towards the main road, but no such luck - there is another alley around the corner, where there is also not a soul. Then a small square with a long-closed temple... and again an alley - the spitting image of the previous one. As one Genoese friend jokes: “We have no main streets here, only main alleys.”

Who lives here? In recent years, when the center was put in order, a bizarre “settlement map” emerged. Neighbors above are literally on a higher rung of the social ladder. Here, on the top floors, flooded with light and blown by the sea wind, it is easy to spot originals by Van Dyck or Jordaens. Downstairs is a store, usually with Peruvian or Bolivian salespeople (unlike neighboring Milan and other industrial cities of Northern Italy, the local immigrants are not from Africa, but mainly from South America). They live on the first 3-4 levels, where the sun almost never reaches. And semi-legal hostels are often set up in basements. During the day they are not very noticeable, but they are clearly audible at night, especially on weekend evenings. On my first day in Genoa, Saturday evening, while I was looking for the cafe I needed, I involuntarily listened to a whole concert of world music, which was coming from under quite respectable condominiums...

In order not to encounter residents of the lower (read social) floors, residents of penthouses come up with various tricks, for example, adding a private elevator to the main volume. I learned about these devices from one young Genoese: after three days of coordination with my parents (he even took a photo of me on his phone to show them - like in the latest Bond film), Marco finally gave me a tour of their house. The elevator door opens with a separate key. It itself is a spectacular glass flask screwed to a rough wall. Upstairs, at the entrance to the apartment, is another armored door, behind which hides a huge loft, which turns into a terrace with a garden and a view of the sea... However, they did not wall up the door to the staircase: servants walk along it.

Noble families like the one I visited are not uncommon in Genoa. Actually, throughout the eight centuries of the republic’s existence, it was ruled not so much by official doges as by several families, each of which most often pulled the blanket on itself, but sometimes entered into a coalition with another, naturally, against a third. Related groups replaced each other in power, sometimes were expelled, and new ones took their place, but the system as a whole was preserved. Its historical traces can easily be found in today's Genoa.

Matthew - Lawrence - Peter

In the center of the medieval city is the Temple of San Matteo with a cozy courtyard and garden. For a long time it was the tomb of the famous Doria family and is literally surrounded on all sides by their former (and current) palaces. Admiral Andrea Doria, the most famous representative of the family and the most influential Genoese of the 16th century, left his mark here too: he rebuilt the Gothic temple in a rich Renaissance style, preserving only the old facade. If you look closely, you will notice that strange objects like a man’s torso or an antique sarcophagus are built into it. The fact is that the front wall of Doria was turned into a kind of monument to its own achievements. For centuries they placed "family" trophies on it. It is characteristic that these trophies are not real, but symbolic - we are talking about antique objects. They, obviously, were supposed to enhance the sound of valor, correlating the victories of the Genoese with the deeds of the heroes of the past. For example, to the right of the entrance to the temple, a late Roman sarcophagus with the Allegory of Autumn relief, which was brought here by the naval commander Lamba Doria after the victory over the Venetians at Curzola in 1290, is built into the outer wall. By the way, he is buried in it - somewhere on the second floor. Around the same years, the square in front of the temple was formed, and it turned out that the relief of Lamba’s tomb became an element of public space, a monument to the savior of the republic.

Allusion 1. Dramatic

The family temples of other patrician families, in particular the Fiesci, were once decorated in a similar way. This surname went down in history after the events of 1547, when representatives of the family led a rebellion against the then leaders, Doria, and killed Andrea’s heir, Gianettino (the plot formed the basis of Schiller’s famous drama “The Fieschi Conspiracy in Genoa”, 1780). The rebellion was brutally suppressed, and its instigators lost all their city possessions. In 1547, by decision of the Senate, the facade of the Fieschi family temple with all its memorial tablets telling about the heroic deeds of the family was destroyed.

Inside the temple, among the other ordinary tombs of Doria, the tomb of Andrea stands out, of course, magnificently decorated with marble figures and stucco. Three candles are burning. The admiral himself rests in a small underground cella - as if in a hold. Ironically, when I was there, it turned out to be... flooded with water. Only the coins sparkle - someone, apparently, threw them “for luck.” “Yes, it happens that it floods, especially when it rains heavily,” the servant says calmly. For him, there is no mystical coincidence that the famous navigator rests under water. Opposite the Temple of San Matteo is another elegant Gothic façade. Above the portal there is a Latin inscription: “The palace was donated by the Senate of Genoa to the Savior of the Motherland Andrea Doria in 1528.” From the alley, its rapidly rising striped-gray façade resembles space station. Now the Senate gift is divided into apartments for rich people - they are rented out by Prince Doria-Pamphilj, who lives in Rome, but from time to time personally comes to check how the residents are doing... And literally door to door - another palace, which again belonged to still Doria, this time Lambe. It was built with city funds and presented to the naval commander for the already mentioned victory over the Venetians in 1290.

Allusion 2. Heroic

Lamba Doria's services to the fatherland were indeed great: in that significant battle, the Venetian fleet consisted of 96 galleys against 15 Genoese, and yet the latter won, largely thanks to the personal heroism of the admiral. When his son was killed in the midst of the battle, the father threw the corpse overboard, emphasizing that for him all warriors are equal. This episode at one time made a deep impression on Petrarch: in one of his letters he cited it as an example of “the highest valor.”

There are amazing views from the roof of the palace. Towards the sea - alternating volumes in the spirit of De Chirico. To the west, towards Nice, are the geometric shapes of skyscrapers headed by a terracotta municipality, nicknamed by the townspeople “the pencil” (Il Matittone). A chaotic network of tiled roofs, antennas, terraces, balconies-altankas, alleys-gorges, gardens and other small residential happiness goes sharply uphill to the east. The “greening” of roofs has occurred recently, when the port poor began to be slowly pushed out of the Old City.

From the terrace of the Palazzo Lamba you can clearly see the spiritual center of Genoa - the Cathedral of San Lorenzo. As befits a cathedral, it represents a complex interweaving of fashions and traditions of different times. Not without grandeur. Not without some incompleteness (the second bell tower on the façade was never built). The Gothic structure juxtaposes with late neoclassical decorations, primitive ex voto votive frescoes with rich Baroque altars.

But the most unexpected thing in this cathedral is underground. This is the sacristy, famous for its provocative interior, designed by Italian design luminary Franco Albini. In 1956, he turned the sacristy into a fascinating labyrinth, where only the main exhibits of the huge collection shine in the pitch darkness. Sharp contrasting light and perspective presentation bring out the most interesting things. The luxurious bronze box office for collecting funds for the Corpus Domini procession (the feast of Corpus Christi) resembles a model of an incredible Baroque battleship; the late Gothic statues emphasize grace and grotesqueness. In a separate room there is a green glass bowl, which the Genoese crusaders brought from their campaigns and revered as the Holy Grail (it has now been established that the vessel was made in the East in the 9th century). Already on the way out, I pay attention to a witty announcement, apparently printed by the rector of the cathedral: “Turn off your phone, open your heart.”

All that remains to do in these surroundings is to visit Piazza Banchi - the Square of Shops, a lively island in the thickness of the Old Town. Here is a wonderful monument to the Genoese character, or more precisely, to its famous practicality - the Church of St. Peter on the Benches (17th century). Since it was built in the city's shopping center, the premises along its perimeter were sold to shopkeepers from the very beginning. Today there is no service in the church with two small symmetrical bell towers - there are few parishioners, but in the adjacent shops trade is as brisk as it was 300 years ago. And a friendly watchman of about sixty works at the temple-museum. Lives next door, and he likes this job— interesting people they are coming. An acquaintance pushes me in the side and on the way out says that this is a famous eccentric from a very rich family. Really, what does it mean to “live nearby”? All around are the palazzos of the main city families, so a local resident may well be from De Nigro, Uzodimare or Lomellino. Isn’t it symbolic: a descendant of bankers and generals is guarding the temple?

Credit history

But Genoa also had other times when its role in world politics and economics could hardly be overestimated. The best monument of this era is the Palace of San Giorgio, built in 1260 as a municipality and later given over to the customs office. Finally, in 1407, the Bank of St. George (San Giorgio) settled in it, under which the palace became the heart and laboratory of the economic life of Europe. During the reigns of Charles V and Philip II, it was he who financed the ambitious international policies of the Spanish Habsburgs. As they like to remember in Genoa, the interest on the debt obligations of those years of the local aristocracy was enough for a comfortable life until the middle of the 19th century. By the way, it is this bank that is associated with the invention of moltiplico - the calculation of interest on interest (1371).

However, the Genoese Republic itself often found itself on the verge of bankruptcy, so starting from the middle of the 12th century, its own government resorted to private loans. In exchange for money, creditors received from the state the right to collect certain taxes. The turbulent domestic and foreign political life of Genoa led to the fact that over time there were a lot of creditors. To regulate the public debt, on April 23, 1407, by a special decree, they were all united into a partnership, which received the name of the city’s patron saint, St. George. Thus began the history of the bank, which soon turned into a kind of “state within a state” (as Machiavelli wrote about it) with its own coin, armed forces and navy, as well as colonies, including Corsica and the Crimean Cafa. The bank was governed by a council of eight protectors, elected for a year from among noble depositors. The undoubted power of this institution is evidenced by the rights that its leaders used to collect debts from insolvent masters: up to and including execution and excommunication (this right was granted to the bank by Pope Pius II in the mid-15th century).

I know that the palace is closed to the public - now the port directorate is located here, so I prepare for the meeting with the guards - I take out my ID and a copy of the magazine. But it turns out that everyone here is nice and friendly: I was immediately taken to Francesco Frumento, an employee of the port archive located right there. His father was a simple port worker, and he himself became a social worker, graduated from university and is interested in the history of the city. He shows me the entire palace, starting with the Captains' Hall, created by restorers of the late 19th century on the site of older premises. It was here that the most valuable examples of plastic art were moved, primarily the throne statue of the banker Francesco Vivaldi - the one who introduced the concept of “compound interest” (interest on interest). This statue was erected in 1468, and others followed. All of them are equipped with detailed dedicatory plaques. The inscription below the figure of Vivaldi extols his magnificent personal qualities and invites everyone to follow his example. In addition, the statue of Ambrosio de Nigro stands out, erected during his lifetime as a sign of gratitude for the pacification of the rebellious Corsica, then a colony of the Bank of St. George. Francesco assures that with the statue, in turn, the bank intended to pacify Nigro himself, known for his unbridled temper. In another room, preserved from the 16th century, the central place is occupied by a statue of a representative of the Grimaldi family - the same one that rules in Monaco today.

Allusion 3. Genealogical

The Grimaldi belonged to the four most distinguished families of Genoa, along with the Doria, Spinola and Fieschi. It is believed that one of them, Francesco, nicknamed the Insidious, captured the castle of Monaco by cunning in 1297, disguised as Franciscan monks along with his men. True, today historians dispute the authenticity of this incident. However, it is still reflected on the coat of arms of the principality, where there are figures of two monks armed with swords.

However, it is known that behind the monuments there was an original price list: for an inheritance left to the bank up to 25,000 lire, a memorial plaque was awarded, from 25,000 to 50,000 - a bust, from 50,000 to 100,000 - a full-length statue, and, finally, from 100,000 - throne statue.

It is not surprising that most of the walls of the building are marked with memorial plaques. However, not only in honor of the donors. In the most prominent place of the medieval façade, right above the main entrance, is a marble mascaron with a lion’s head, brought by the Genoese from the Venetian palace in Constantinople they plundered. Nearby there is a sign reminding that the Venetian prisoner of war Marco Polo languished in a dungeon inside the building (at the time when there was still a customs office here). According to the most common version, it was here that he dictated his book to his Pisan cellmate...

In general, significant events for the whole world took place here more than once - even in recent history. For example, in the spring of 1922, diplomatic missions of the main European powers gathered in Genoa. The conference was held in San Giorgio and lasted more than a month - from April 10 to May 19: economic relations in the post-war world were discussed at a huge table in the Captains' Hall. For the first time, a delegation from Soviet Russia was also invited to an international forum. In response to her recognition, Europe wanted to receive obligations to repay the royal debts, which our compatriots, of course, were not going to do. The meeting could have ended in vain for us if the head of the Soviet delegation, Georgy Chicherin, had not achieved a separate agreement with Weimar Germany at a meeting in the resort suburb of Rapallo. Thus, Soviet Russia de jure became a subject of international law.

All that remains to be said about the bank is that after the French occupation of 1797, it lost its importance and officially closed in 1816, when Genoa was annexed to the Kingdom of Sardinia. The Palace of San Giorgio fell into disrepair until it was handed over to a wealthy port at the end of the 19th century, when restoration began. But the banking history of Genoa did not end: for many years the headquarters of the largest bank in Italy, Credito Italiano, was located in the city, which also actively worked with the Soviet Union. On its basis, UniCredit was created in 1998 - today one of the largest credit organizations in the world. In the 1990s, a new Bank of St. George appeared - now it is part of the UBI Banca group.

Hall of Fame

	Andrea Doria (1466-1560) - famous naval commander and politician. In 1528, he liberated Genoa from the French, restored the republic and created the foundation for economic prosperity, initiating a century and a half alliance with the Habsburgs
	Christopher Columbus (1446?-1506) - It is generally accepted that he was born in Genoa, into the family of a weaver (the house of the alleged father still exists today). Correspondence with the Florentine scientist Paolo Toscanelli led him to the idea of ​​​​searching for the shortest route to Asia, as a result of which he discovered America in 1492
	Niccolo Paganini (1784-1840). Born in a poor quarter of Genoa. The musician bequeathed his favorite violin by the master Guarneri to Genoa, and now it is kept in the municipal building. The winner of the annual Genoese Paganini Violin Competition gets the right to play it.
	Giuseppe Mazzini (1805-1872) - theorist of classical nationalism, inspirer of the unification of Italy. One of the triumvirs of the Roman Republic of 1849, employee and editor-in-chief of numerous newspapers. More than 50,000 people attended his funeral. Rested in the Genoese cemetery of Staglieno
	A native of Genoa, Eugenio Montale (1896-1981) is a poet, winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature for 1975. Despite the very difficult (even for the Italians themselves) syllable, it was translated into Russian
	Fabrizio de Andre (1940-1999) is the most famous and influential Italian bard. His songs “Marinella”, “Pink Mouth” and “King Charles Returned from the War” are known by heart throughout Italy. They teach from them Italian language and in Russian universities
	Renzo Piano (b. 1937) is one of the most influential architects in the world. The credo is highly environmentally friendly high-tech. After the reconstruction of part of the Old Port, he was appointed the author of the concept for the reconstruction of the center of Genoa. When asked what the city of the future will be like, he answers: “I hope it will be the same as the city of the past.”

Vanity Street

Sometime from the 1550s to the 1650s, Genoa was the richest city in Europe. Hence the historiographical concept - “Genoese century”, and the famous Italian-Spanish proverb: “Gold is born in America, dies in Spain and is buried in Genoa.” All this time, the Genoese have been crediting the bloody European conflicts, mainly between France and Spain. Formally, from the time of Andrea Doria, who concluded an alliance with the Habsburgs in 1528, and until the end of the 17th century, Genoa provided them with financial and military assistance, which, however, did not prevent bankers from sometimes lending to the enemies of the Spaniards.

The wealth of the “Genoese century” was materially embodied in several large-scale projects - primarily in the so-called New (or Golden) Road. This is the world's first ensemble street, from the very beginning conceived and built as a luxurious thoroughfare of only palaces - before that, the main streets of cities formed on their own and presented a chaotic spectacle.

The street was laid on the outskirts of what was then Genoa (now it is the center), on the slope of a hill previously occupied by the houses of the poor and monastic properties. The town planning council approved the project in 1551, but work for various reasons, primarily financial, related to the uprising in Corsica, began only in 1558.

They built it for about 20 years and then completed it for another century, remodeling it, repainting it. It turned out to suit every taste: houses like whipped cream, like chests or safes, like something cloudless and resort-like - with arcades and hanging gardens - in a word, a paradise. How it all looked originally can be judged from the inspired album of Rubens, who carefully collected images of the facades and plans of palaces and published them in his homeland, Antwerp. The preface read: “For the architectural education of the local public.”

On Novaya Doroga they also built like a family: brother opposite brother, father-in-law opposite son-in-law. The Spinola family built four palaces here, two each - Lomellino and Pallavicino. The theme of kinship was also supported architecturally: the portal of Tobio Pallavicino’s palace was modeled after the house of Agostino’s brother standing across the road.

The general solution New Road traditionally associated with the famous Peruginian architect Galeazzo Alessi, who then lived here, but it is now believed that all the work was supervised by Bernardino Cantone da Cabio, a native of Lombardy. For 30 years he was the head of all city works. His role in the creation of the street was great - he not only designed and supervised the construction, but also personally sold the land.

I confess that in textbooks and photographs this plot seemed to me an architectural curiosity, but in reality the New Road - a space only seven meters wide - leaves a very strong impression. And very theatrical, especially at night. This is how you imagine Don Juan, or Casanova, fluttering between palaces. This feeling is enhanced by the fact that, unlike other streets in the center, Novaya Doroga is pedestrian and, as a rule, deserted. Street for the sake of street.

Allusion 4. Panegyric

“The most beautiful thing on my trip was Genoa... the city of marble with gardens of roses... how sweet it must be to fall in love against the backdrop of such scenery,” Gustave Flaubert wrote in the mid-19th century, amazed by the New Road. At that time, luxurious Genoa still delighted visitors. “There is something indescribably beautiful, majestic, extraordinary here; Paris and London pale in comparison with this divine city and seem like an uninteresting and shapeless heap of houses and streets,” Wagner wrote at the same time. In 1853, in a letter to his wife, he promised to take her to Genoa for her birthday: “I think this is the best gift.”

But by the end of the century the situation had changed dramatically: the city gradually turned into an industrial center, and trips there quickly went out of fashion. In the early 1900s, even such an attentive traveler as Pavel Muratov, author of the famous “Images of Italy,” did not consider this city worthy of attention...

If thanks to Rubens we can imagine the original appearance of the street, then the images of customers and residents were preserved by his great student Van Dyck. Many of the paintings were sent to other museums, but some things remained in their original places, the best in the Red and White Palaces, named after the color of the facades. The Fleming arrived in the city at the age of twenty and spent several years here. A year and a half of work in the workshop of Rubens, well known in Genoa, was an excellent recommendation, and the local public received the young man with a bang. From his paintings, luxuriously dressed people look at us - incredulous, melancholic, with an uneven blush on their cheeks. Women are on the verge of a nervous breakdown, men on the hunt have a sly expression on their faces. In the mannerist fashion of the time, everything is elongated vertically, everyone has huge arms and bodies and small heads. The background is poetic views of the Ligurian suburbs, which, if you have never been to Genoa, may seem like artistic invention.

Both palaces, together with their picturesque collections, were donated to the city in 1874 by their last owners, Duke Raffaele De Ferrari and his wife Maria Brignole-Sale. From that moment on, the museumification of the New Road (its current name is Garibaldi Street) began as a single space, which ended in the 1990s. Then they removed the traffic, renovated the facades, and placed an explanatory stand near each building. Today, most of the palaces are given over to offices. As for De Ferrari’s good deeds, they did not end with the first gift: at the end of the 19th century, the philanthropic duke gave 20 million liras in gold for the reconstruction of the port (this is a third of the total amount, the rest was allocated by the royal government). That is why the main square of Genoa, which took shape just at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, received the name De Ferrari, and a six-meter statue of the banker duke was built in the port (although it has been removed and restored for almost 20 years).

Monumental jean painting

A year ago, in the Diocesan Museum, in the presence of Pope Benedict XVI, a permanent exhibition of Genoese “denim” fabrics of the 16th century, painted with religious subjects, was opened. Once upon a time, these huge indigo paintings (some reaching three meters in height) decorated the interiors of the suburban Abbey of San Nicolo del Boschetto. The cycle of 14 fragments depicts the Passion of Christ and is a uniquely preserved ensemble of monumental painting on fabric. This is a kind of prototype of the current denim, which, by the way, owes its name to Genoa: when coarse Genoese fabric began to be exported to America, it received the name jeans from the incorrectly spelled French name of the city - Genes.

In addition, the museum has a magnificent courtyard with a two-story arcade. It was opened several years ago - until the 1980s, the building housed ordinary apartments, the arcades were closed with temporary walls. In the Middle Ages, the canons of the cathedral lived in the complex; their collective portrait can be found on one of the walls of the gallery. Among other exhibits is the magnificent “Last Supper” by Luca Cambiaso, perhaps the most original Genoese painter of the 16th century, who designed the El Escorial for Philip II. Big-eyed, primitively painted apostles, emphasizing their human nature... This exhibition is another important sign of the “opening of Genoa” to the world. The city is finally thinking about what is really worth showing to visitors. Maybe it’s worth renaming the Diocesan Museum to the Jeans Museum, adding several exhibits from the Levi Strauss collection?

Endless 19th century

In 1797, Napoleon, with the stroke of a pen, abolished the eight-hundred-year-old Genoese Republic and established in its place a new one, the Ligurian Republic (modeled on the French one). In 1805, he completely annexed Genoa to his empire, and in 1815, the Vienna Congress of European Sovereigns “awarded” it to the Kingdom of Sardinia, that is, Piedmont, an unloved Francophile neighbor (the Genoese are Hispanophiles and Anglophiles), which is still discussed here They say condescendingly: “Mountaineers, what can we take from them?” Nevertheless, under the rule of the French and then the Piedmontese, the city grew rapidly as the main port of the Sardinian, later united Italian kingdom, and after the Second World War - a republic. At the same time, Genoa turned into an entire agglomeration, the surrounding areas were built up, new areas appeared around the ancient core and on the hills - for wealthy gentlemen, and with them cable cars and observation platforms. Since then, the image and character of Genoa have changed little.

There is construction everywhere, some kind of work, jackhammers are knocking, garbage is being raked. It's drizzling. Right there on the street, despite the bad weather, ladies in luxurious coats are sitting calmly as if nothing had happened and drinking coffee. I stayed in this Genoa, nearby are all the iconic points: galleries, theaters, cafes, a covered street with shops. Lawyers, bankers and professors meet in the Mangini cafe on Piazza Corvetto. No matter who I arranged an interview with, they were scheduled for me here. Already on the second day they recognized me here, asked how I was doing, advised me what to try and what would be the best way to wash it down in such dull weather. Mangini is perhaps the oldest existing city establishment - opened in 1876. A plaque on the wall recalls that it was visited by Alessandro Pertini, the Genoese journalist and later President of Italy, the poet Eugenio Montale and actors from neighboring theaters. I talked to the bartender: he has been working here for almost 20 years. The owners themselves are also behind the counter - the elderly elegant lady at the cash register is replaced from time to time by her daughter, on whose shoulders is again a manteau with a sparkling fur collar - in the fashion of the 1960s, which seems to be relevant in Genoa to this day.

The square itself is named after the economist Luigi Corvetto, a member of the Council of State of Napoleonic France, and the grand equestrian monument in its center honors Victor Emmanuel II, the unifying king of Italy. “The King stands, large and unloved,” wrote local poet and Nobel laureate Montale about the monument. The monarch is traditionally not liked in Genoa. After all, it was he who suppressed the uprising in March 1849: then the Genoese demanded that he continue the war with Austria for the reunification of the country. But the king considered this impossible and signed peace, and sent General La Marmora from Turin to Genoa, who captured the city and committed atrocities here: soldiers (his own, Italian, Bersaglieri) robbed, beat, killed... However, now all these historical the vicissitudes were forgotten, and local residents easily call the statue of the king after the economist Corvetto: “When you see Corvetto, there’s a right there.” And opposite, on a small hill, there is a monument to another Unitarian - Giuseppe Mazzini, a theorist of nationalism and practice of reunification of the country under republican slogans, born and buried in Genoa.

From Piazza Corvetto you can walk through a gallery-passage to the aforementioned Piazza De Ferrari and the Opera building located on it. The gallery is built on the model of the famous Milanese one, only smaller: it was once a bustling place, but now it is empty, dusty and serves more as a simple covered passage than a retail space. The Europe Cafe, the setting for the recent bestseller “The Cement Party” about corruption in the Genoese elite, also looks unattractive. Here, according to the book, corrupt officials gathered until recently to discuss their dark affairs.

And here it is, Piazza De Ferrari - the very center of the city, a universal meeting place and transport connections. The main institutions of Genoa of the last century are located around the perimeter. The abundance of the former is striking: the former stock exchange (by the way, the first in Italy, now there is a bank), the former maritime department (now the government of the Liguria region), the former headquarters of Credito Italiano. Towering over it all is the colossal cube of the Teatro Carlo Felice, built in the 1980s - the former building was destroyed by bombs in the 1940s. Defiantly simplified neoclassicism: “At first glance, the building looks scary, but then you get used to it,” say the Genoese. Despite the terrible, prolonged downpour, a powerful fountain flows in the middle of the square.

Here, on De Ferrari, is the final stop of the only line of the Genoese metro. Citizens are ironic about the slow pace of construction: they opened in 1990, but only four stations have been built since then: “Is this a metro? In London or Paris, there really is a metro, but here there is an underground tram.” Genoese are generally known complainers, but this quality is surprisingly combined with an unchanging sense of self-esteem.

The Rise and Fall of Genoa

The Genoese Republic dates back to the end of the 11th century and immediately began to acquire colonies - during the First Crusade (1097), 10 Genoese galleys occupied the port of Antioch (now Antakya, Turkey). Another century later, Genoa begins to take off: an agreement with the Byzantine emperor Manuel I Comnenos (1170) allows it to conduct active trade in the Black Sea region.

The republic reached its military apogee at the end of the 13th century. The famous victories over the Pisans and Venetians date back to this period: in 1284, Benedetto Zaccaria and Oberto Doria inflicted a crushing defeat on the Pisan fleet near the mouth of the Arno. A few years later, in 1290, Admiral Corrado Doria destroyed the port of Pisa. That same year, at the Battle of Curzola, Admiral Lamba Doria defeated the Venetian fleet. For some time Genoa has dominated the Mediterranean. A little earlier, in 1261, the Genoese helped Michael VIII Palaiologos take the Byzantine throne, for which they received almost monopoly rights to trade in the Black Sea and founded colonies there. Kafa (Feodosia) became a strategic springboard for their trade - its magnificent Genoese fortress still exists today. Following her came Tana (Azov), Sebastopoli (Sukhumi), Trebizond (Trabzon). Alas, in 1346, it was from the Crimean Cafa that the “Black Death” came to Genoa, due to which most of the population of this city, and then other regions of Italy, died out. The decline of the Genoese trading empire began in the 15th century, when the Turks deprived the city of many colonies. Even earlier, in 1381, during the war for Chioggia, the Genoese fleet was defeated by the Venetians and their allies.

True, in 1528 Andrea Doria “reigned” in Genoa (formally he did not hold any leadership positions, but de facto ruled the city until his death in 1560). Under him, the republic became an ally of the Spanish Habsburgs, which entailed a century and a half of prosperity and relative internal stability. Foreign policy independence, however, had already been virtually lost by that time. In 1684, the troops of Louis XIV literally bombarded the city with shells (about 8,000), after which the republic was forced to coordinate all its decisions with France.

After the occupation of Genoa in 1797 by Napoleon, events developed rapidly: the city was included in the Ligurian Republic, which was soon annexed to France, and by the decision of the Congress of Vienna in 1815 - to the Kingdom of Sardinia.

Drunk and the sea. Century XXI

About forty-five years ago, a gigantic automobile overpass was built along the entire length of the seashore - Sopraelevata. It was intended to be temporary, but, like many temporary things, it turned out to be permanent. Now it is the largest intra-city structure with a length of 4.5 kilometers. In the city center, an overpass literally hangs over medieval buildings. Day and night it makes noise and spoils the promenade along the embankment. But soon you begin to see in her another reflection of the Genoese character. Yes, the road obscures the panorama of the sea from the city, but it offers breathtaking views of both the sea and the city. “And most importantly,” says the young architect Andrea Zanderigo, “thanks to Sopraelevata, even during rush hour you can get to the airport in 5-10 minutes.” In general, this is super-pragmatic, a solution that may not be aesthetically pleasing, but effective.

At the end of the 1970s, the city council of Genoa decided to start reconstructing the Old City, and above all the port area, which it was time to move to the outskirts. To do this, they decided to divide the territory into several plots and distribute them to famous architects. Among the seven guests was the Genoese Renzo Piano. Ironically, this was the forty-year-old master’s first major order in his homeland, despite the fact that Piano, one of the authors of the Pompidou Center in Paris, was already considered a master. In the area of ​​the port allocated to him, Piano proposed not to demolish anything, but, if possible, to reconstruct warehouses, warehouses, and customs premises. This idea of ​​preserving and reinterpreting industrial architecture was then quite unusual in Italy. However, its implementation dragged on for 10 years: work began only in the late 1980s and was completed by 1992, the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America by the Genoese Christopher Columbus. From a distance, these buildings and especially the most famous of them - the Bigo observation deck - may seem ridiculous: some kind of white cuttlefish, pipes, wires, awnings and suspensions. But when you walk nearby the port, it turns out that these strange abstract forms enhance the feeling of sea freshness. In old warehouses, Piano placed small art galleries, cafes, bars and a few offices...

It seems that this is no longer Genoa, but some kind of city of the future, living in parallel, a laboratory not only of a new style, but also of a new vision of space and urban life. Here's an example: right there, in the port, is the most famous Genoese building of Piano - the Aquarium, the second largest in Europe. It appeared when the Genoese no longer knew what to do: in the 1980s, plants and factories were moved south, to poorer areas of Italy, the number of jobs was steadily falling, and the post-industrial crisis began (which, by the way, is still not ended). The idea of ​​an aquarium as a way to attract tourists came to the mind of one member of the Communist Party (however, in Genoa at that time almost everyone was a member of the Communist Party), Claudio Burlando: he had just returned from Baltimore, America, where he visited a similar museum. Renzo Piano immediately agreed to design it, but the very idea of ​​a “museum of the sea” for many years aroused surprise, irritation, laughter among Genoese skeptics - everything but understanding. But Burlando insisted, never tired of praising his project. And here Columbus decided everything: in the end, the aquarium was included in the program of honoring the famous fellow countryman... Its discovery brought tourists to Genoa from the decks of Mediterranean liners, who had not stayed here before. Another 12 years later, in 2004, after the completion of the first stage of reconstruction and rehabilitation of the Old Town, visitors began to slowly visit there: before this, travel agencies did not consider the medieval center interesting and safe enough. However, the process is just beginning: in a few days I met only two small groups - one from Japan, the other from Russia. The city's luxurious museums are still empty, but perhaps by the time reconstruction is completed for the next Columbus Jubilee in 2012, the situation will change.

In general, the Aquarium can apparently be considered a new symbol of Genoa opening up to the world. In addition to the architectural design, it is also interesting in terms of the exhibition structure: it is assumed that the species of fish and other water inhabitants will change from time to time. When you return to it after a few years, you will see a lot of new things. The same can probably be said about Genoa as a whole.

There are cities in the world without which the history of mankind is simply unimaginable. This is Genoa - a city of contrasts and unique charm, a city with an amazing history, a city of sailors and merchants, in the Middle Ages - the capital of the Genoese Republic. Genoa is the main city and seaport of northern Italy. Christopher Columbus was born here. The settlement on the site of modern Genoa has been known since time immemorial and, even before the birth of Christ, already had a long and turbulent history. During the dark era of the early Middle Ages, the city fell into decline, then was reborn as an independent city-state with a large trading fleet and one of the most powerful navies in the Mediterranean.

Coat of arms of the city of Genoa

The noisy atmosphere of a large, busy modern city somewhat diminishes the importance of Genoa in the eyes of tourists, which is extremely unfair - the medieval old city can compete with any city in Western Europe.

Genova (Italian: Genova), as the Genoese lovingly call it, gave birth to many great people who had a strong influence on the course of history throughout the world. The fate of Muscovy largely depended on the relations of the Genoese with the Golden Horde. There are Genoese fortresses all over the Black Sea coast. The most famous of them in Crimea are Sudak (Soldaya) and Feodosia (Kafa).

Genoa is located on the shores of the Gulf of Genoa - part of the warm and gentle Ligurian Sea. It stands where the southern coast of the Apennine Peninsula, which had previously risen to the northwest, turns sharply to the south, heading towards the Principality of Monaco and the Cote d'Azur of France - the land of fashionable resorts, villas, casinos and the “sweet life”.

Genoa is the capital of the Ligurian Riviera. If you have not visited this city, have not seen in reality its magnificent palaces, harsh fortress walls, or been amazed by the majestic beauty of the Gulf of Genoa, consider that you have not seen anything in Italy.

This city is a landmark throughout Italy. It amazes not only with historical monuments, but also with completely modern architectural buildings such as an aquarium or the Bigot Ferris wheel. There are so many interesting places in Genoa that it seems that a lifetime is not enough to see everything and examine it in detail.

This is one of the largest ports in the Mediterranean Sea (cargo turnover is about 50 million tons per year). Genoa is a large industrial center. Metallurgy, mechanical engineering, shipbuilding, oil refining, chemical, light and food industries are developed here. Located in Genoa international Airport them. Christopher Columbus (Aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo). The patron saint of the city is St. John the Baptist (San Giovanni Battista).

Train station building in Genoa

The marine terminal building was built at the end of the 19th century. and reconstructed for the G8 meeting.

Marine Station. Nearby is the Maritime Museum, one of the main attractions of which is the submarine C-518 Nazario Sauro. The submarine has been here since 2010.

Panorama of the port and Lanterna lighthouse

Lanterna Lighthouse is one of the oldest surviving lighthouses in the world. It is the symbol of Genoa and is located in the old harbor - Porto Antico. The first navigation structure was erected in 1128. In 1326, the first lantern appeared at the lighthouse; the fire was lit with olive oil so that ships passing by could better see its light. At the beginning of the 16th century, the lighthouse was seriously damaged during the war between Genoa and France and after reconstruction it took on the form in which it has survived to this day. The height of the lighthouse is 77 m and 117 m above sea level.

There are 375 steps leading to the top. Currently, the Lanterna lighthouse is used for its intended purpose by the Italian fleet. Inside Lanterna there is also a museum telling the story of Genoa's glorious maritime history and its famous lighthouse.

concerts and performances are sometimes held in the lighthouse courtyard....

lighthouse wall fragment

Il Bigo - an architectural masterpiece

This miracle of architectural design was created in 1992 by the famous architect Renzo Piano at an exhibition dedicated to the 500th anniversary of the voyage of Christopher Columbus.

The main feature is the unusual design of the attraction. Most of all, it resembles a bundle of cargo booms on a steamship. The largest “boom” raises the elevator car with panoramic glass to a height of 40 meters. The cabin slowly rotates around an axis, allowing you to observe the panorama of the port, the Gulf of Genoa and the city itself.

Porta Porta – Soprano

Porta Soprana is a city gate that was built in the same era as Porta dei Vacca (1161), and is located between two towers of the city's battlemented defensive wall. This gate was the main entrance to the Medieval city from the east. Little evidence remains of the defensive walls of Genoa, which were built in the 12th century. In fact, Porta Soprana is part of the only surviving section of those walls. The wall was part of the defensive system and was called the “Wall of Barbarossa”.

Triumphal Arch

Arc de Triomphe on main street Genoa - XX September street. It was opened in 1931 and is dedicated to the victory of Italy as a participant in the First World War (a participant, it must be said, a very weak and unlucky one; but the alliance with the Entente still provided her with the spoils of victory in the form of some territories of Austria-Hungary)

Cathedral of San Lorenzo

The Cathedral of San Lorenzo is the religious center of Genoa. Here is the Holy Cup, which is called the real Holy Grail - the cup from which Jesus Christ drank at the Last Supper. Holy Chalice - Symbol of the museum. It was brought to Genoa by the crusaders in the 11th century, after the conquest of Caesarea. It is still not known when it was made.

Clad in white and black stone, the cathedral is one of the finest examples of the Gothic style, built on an existing Romanesque structure.

The interior of the temple is decorated with naves separated by columns; the columns themselves and their arches were made in the 13th century. On the vault between the nave and the altar there is a fresco - “The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence” (Lazzaro Tavarone).

Above the altar there is a fresco - the miracle of St. Lawrence, 16th century. Genoa has two patron saints - St. Lawrence and St. John the Baptist. In the left nave is the Chapel of John the Baptist (San Giovanni Battista). Residents of Genoa are very proud of the fact that their ancestors managed to remove from Palestine the relics of John the Baptist, a cousin of Jesus Christ, during the First Crusade.

Initially, the shrine was located in the main hall of the cathedral, but in 1465 it was moved to a chapel built especially for this purpose next to the altar. The dungeon contains the treasures of the Cathedral.

Interior of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo

Basilica of Santissima Annunziata

Today, inside the cathedral you can see works by such masters of world art as Giovanni Benedetto Castiglione, Giovanni Bernardo Carbone, Valerio Castello, Giovanni Domenico Cappellino, Domenico Piola, Giovanni Lorenzo Bertolotti and Aurelio Lomi.

The dome is decorated with a fresco of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary by Giovanni Andrea Ansaldo, later restored by Gregorio de Ferrari. Above the entrance at the central nave is the painting “The Last Supper” by Giulio Cesare Procaccini. All 6 chapels of the cathedral are also painted with numerous frescoes of religious subjects. In addition, inside you can see a variety of sculptural images of Madonnas and luxurious altar images.

In the 17th century Two artists worked on the decoration of the church: the brothers Giovanni and Giovanni Battista Carlone. Giovanni Carlone painted the frescoes of the transept and the first three bays of the central nave. Decorative frescoes in the central nave tell the story of the life of Christ.

The decoration embodies all the splendor of the 17th century Baroque style. Painting c. Santissima Annunziata del Vastato. Artist J. Carlone. 1636–1638

Fresco "Resurrection"

The most important detail of the decoration of the temple - the fresco of the dome depicting the scene of the Ascension of Our Lady - Lomellini was invited to do by Andrea Ansaldo. In addition to frescoes and wonderful architectural decoration, in the church you can see many sculptures and paintings by prominent masters of the Baroque and late Mannerist eras. The columns are very beautiful: made of smoky crimson marble with white marble ribs.

Fresco "Prayer for the Cup. Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane"

Wooden sculpture "Tenderness"

Jesuit Church of Saints Ambrose and Andrew

The church was built in the 6th century and rebuilt in the 16th century. At the end of the 19th century, statues of Saints Ambrose and Andrew were inserted into niches on the façade. Although from Italian it sounds more like the Church of Jesus and Saints Ambrose and Andrew.

Church of St. Sir

The Church of St. Sir is one of the most ancient places of worship in Genoa, located in the very center of the old city on the street of the same name, near the old port, about 700 m northeast of Piazza de Ferrari.

The church was built in the 4th century and was originally dedicated to the twelve apostles. Later, one of the first bishops of Genoa, Saint Sir, was buried in the church, and it became the city's first Cathedral.

The interior of the church is richly decorated with works of art, including frescoes by Giambattista Carlone on the vaults representing “The Miracle of the Expulsion of the Basilisk”, “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, “The Conversion of St. Peter”, “The Fall of Simon the Magus” (1646 - 1662). In addition, the church has a fresco “Triumph of the Cross” located in the dome. Paintings by Domenico Piola and sculptures by Taddeo Carlone have also been preserved.

Ferrari Square

The square received its name in 1887 in honor of the nearby house of philanthropist and Duke Raphael de Ferrari.

Duke De Ferrari - owner of the White and Red Palazzo, at the end of the 19th century. gave 20 million liras in gold for the reconstruction of the port (this is a third of the total amount, the rest was allocated by the royal government). That is why the main square of Genoa, which took shape just at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, received the name De Ferrari. In the center of the square stands a fountain, built in 1936. Behind the fountain is the former Stock Exchange building.

dome of the Exchange

The Ducal Palace (Palazzo Ducale) in Genoa is one of the most important historical buildings in the city. The complex of buildings of the Ducal Palace covers an area of ​​35 thousand m². At first it served as the seat of government of the Genoese Republic. After the election of Simon Boccanegra as Doge in 1339, the status of the palace changed in accordance with the title of the head of the city administration.

After restoration completed in 1992, the Palace of Culture was opened here. Currently, the largest exhibitions in the city are held in the halls and courtyards of the Palace.

Square of victory

Victory Square is the largest, and perhaps the most official square of Genoa... Without a story about it, the appearance of the many-sided Genoa will, nevertheless, be incomplete...

green cascade on Victory Square

Marine theme

Acquaverde Square

Piazza Acquaverde is located next to Genoa's central train station. There is a monument to Columbus on it.

Columbus Monument

A statue of Columbus with long flowing hair, wearing a short Spanish cloak as well as a large open cloak, his left hand resting on an anchor and his right on the shoulder of a figure of America - an Indian girl with a cross in her right hand. At each of the four corners of the base are smaller square pedestals, on each of which is a seated statue, representing piety, science, constancy and prudence.

Between these four bass reliefs: Columbus in front of the Council of Salamanca.
Columbus erecting a cross on new land.
Reception of Columbus by the kings of Spain in Barcelona upon his return from his first voyage.
Columbus is returned to Spain in chains.

Monument to Manuel Belgrano

Manuel Belgrano is a national hero of Argentina, commander, economist, and politician. The city of General Belgrano in the province of Buenos Aires bears his name.
Born into a rich large family. The father, a merchant from Genoa, was successfully naturalized; mother is from a Spanish family that has long settled in Buenos Aires.

Bank of San Giorgio

Bank of St. George (Banco di San Giorgio) - was established by an association of money changers in Genoa in 1407 and was located in the medieval palazzo San Giorgio. The construction of the palace was carried out in the mid-13th century by order of the captain of the people, Guglielmo Boccanegra.

The palace was the first building in Genoa that initially had a public purpose - a counterweight to religious power. In the 15th century, the offices of the influential Bank of St. George were located here, which became one of the first banking institutions in Italy.

Galleon "Neptune"

The Neptune is a beautiful replica of a 17th century Spanish galleon. It was built in 1985 for Roman Polanski's film Pirates. Neptune takes its name from the vessel it portrayed, but the creators were not willing to take risks with expensive materials, so below the waterline the hull is made of steel. However, it is difficult to notice with the naked eye, and for just 5 euros you can be on board the same boat that appeared as the Jolly Roger in 'Neverland'. Neptune has been a key aspect of Genoa's tourism business for over 20 years and is even now worth a visit.

Coat of arms on the galleon "Neptune"

The figure after whom the galleon is named. God of the seas Neptune (in Greek mythology Poseidon). In his hands he holds a trident, which he can control the waves. The figure is installed on the latrine (overhang at the bow of a sailing ship). The tradition of decorating the bow of a ship with a sculpture or relief has existed since ancient times. She was a symbol of the ship. When the ship served its term, the figurehead was removed, and it decorated the walls of buildings, columns, and the house of the owner or captain.

Cemetery Staliene

What the beautiful Angel Monteverde is sad about and what conversations Friedrich Nietzsche had with his companions on trips to Italy, only the monumental cemetery of Staglieno (Cimitero monumentale di Staglieno), located on the outskirts of Genoa and known throughout the world for its highly artistic marble tombstones and sculptures, knows.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, the aristocratic families of Genoa introduced the tradition of placing luxurious tombstones on graves in order to perpetuate the memory of themselves and their loved ones in marble.

As cynical as it sounds, death became the occasion for the creation of beautiful works of art, with which the Staglieno cemetery is filled, like an open-air museum.

The Genoese Staglieno cemetery with 60 thousand graves opened in 1851 according to the design of the architect Carlo Barabino, who also proposed installing a copy of the Roman Pantheon (“temple of all gods”) with Greek elements, images of the biblical prophets Jeremiah and Job, as well as a 10-meter statue in the center of the necropolis Faith by sculptor Santo Varni.

At the end of the 19th century, the Staglieno cemetery became one of the main attractions of Genoa. Among many, Guy de Maupassant, Mark Twain and Ernest Hemingway came here, who later described their impressions with delight.

Here you can see the works of famous Italian sculptors of the 19th century - Santo Varni, Eduardo Alfieri, Giulio Monteverde, Leonardo Bistolfi, wander among the tombstones of Constance Lloyd (wife of Oscar Wilde), Ferruccio Pari (hero of the resistance, and later Prime Minister of Italy), the national Italian hero Giuseppe Mazzini, who has a separate mausoleum, and many others.

The most popular tombstone in the Staglieno cemetery is undoubtedly the feminine angel of Monteverde, who has been guarding the crypt of the Oneto family since 1882.

The Staglieno cemetery is truly an amazing embodiment of the element of beauty in the timeless space of eternity, a bright element of the mosaic of impressions from visiting Genoa.

Genoa is famous for its magnificent aristocratic palaces, which provide a picture of the luxurious lifestyle of the 16th-17th centuries. The city owed the originality of the Genoese construction of palaces - the large-scale distribution of mass and the skillful use of sloping plots for construction - to the native of Perugia - the architect-builder Galeazzo Alessi (1512-1572) and his followers. The development of trade with other countries attracted many foreign artists to the city, among them Rubens and Van Dyck. Of the local artists, Luca Cambiaso (1527-1585), Bernardo Strozzi (1581-1644) and Alessandro Magnasco (1667-1749) are especially famous.

Palazzo Reale

Aristocrats built their residences on Balbi Street. The luxurious Palazzo Reale is located on it. The royal palace Palazzo Reale was built in the 17th century and belonged to the Genoese Balbi family. In 1679, the Balbi sold it to another powerful Genoese family, Durazzo. Under the new owner, Eugenio Durazzo, the palace was significantly expanded. In 1823, the palace became the residence of the Savoy king.

Coat of arms of the Palazzo Reale

Representatives of this dynasty further embellished this baroque splendor by bringing here expensive furniture and art objects. In 1919, the king of a united Italy, Victor Emmanuel III, ceded the palace to the state.

Pebble carpet in the garden. 1738 - pebbled date

The palace is of amazing beauty, captivating with its elegance and grace of decoration. Wonderful stairs, huge balconies, a very nice courtyard. This courtyard overlooks the harbor of Genoa.

Garden of the Palazzo Reale

Around the palazzo there is a beautiful garden with a collection of exotic plants, which opens out to the sea. Pebble paths with beautiful mosaics depicting sea horses and other strange animals.

White Palace (Palazzo Bianco)

View from the terrace of Palazzo Bianco

In the foreground is the White Palace (Palazzo Bianco). In 1576, the Senate of the Genoese Republic obliged the owners of palaces to provide their homes for representational purposes. Records of Genoese palaces and estates have been kept for a long time on parchment scrolls, i.e. "rotoli". This word was later simplified to “rolly”. Based on the list of “rolli” palaces, the order of provision of their homes for receiving foreign delegations was established. In total, the rolly list contained about 80 palaces. Both palaces (White and Red), together with their picturesque collections, were donated to the city in 1874 by their last owners, Duke Raffaele De Ferrari and his wife Maria Brignole-Sale.

Red Palace (Palazzo Rosso)

Palazzo Rosso is one of the ancient palaces of Genoa. The palace was built in 1671 - 1677 for the wealthy Brignole-Sale family. Until 1874 it remained in the possession of this family. Maria Brignole-Sale, Duchess of Galliera bequeathed the palazzo to the people of Genoa to "increase the artistic splendor of the city."

Palazzo Giacomo Spinola

The palace (Palazzo Giacomo Spinola) was built between 1445 and 1459. Giacomo Spinola is a representative of one of the most noble and aristocratic families of Genoa. It reached its greatest prosperity during the period when it was owned by G. Battista Spinola di Tomaso, Tommaso Spinola, a famous writer, served as Doge of Genoa for two years. Currently, the palace houses the Banco di Sardegna bank, which was the main financier in the project to restore it.

Palazzo Doria Pamphili

Garden at the palace of Andrea Doria (or named after the current owner, Palazzo Doria Pamphili). In front of the palace there is a beautiful Italian style garden. The palace was built in 1530 by the famous admiral and ruler of Genoa Andrea Doria. At that time, the palace was used by the admiral to receive delegations and important guests. The garden in front of the palace sloped down to the sea, where Andrea Doria's private marina was located. Currently, there is a road between the villa and the coast, and next to this place is the Genoa Maritime Station.

The most ancient part of the Palace-Gallery of Doria Pamphili (Palazzo Doria Pamphili)

Castle Mackenzie

Castle Mackenzie in Genoa is a large mansion located in the Castelletto quarter. The five-story castle building is one of the most successful examples eclecticism, combining architectural preferences of the late 19th century, elements of Gothic and Mannerism. The originality of the building does not detract even from the obvious similarity with the Palace of the Signoria in Florence.

entrance to Mackenzie Castle

Castle Mackenzie. Here you can see the first building of the castle

The local economy continues to rely on the port, and the city was recently declared a European Capital of Culture, which has contributed to the influx of funding.

Seaport of Genoa

Old Town Embankment

The Old Harbor is one of the must-see attractions, even if you go there to climb the strange monument to Il Bigo (erected in 1992 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the birth of Columbus) - it offers wonderful views of the city and the sea ( on clear days you can even see Corsica). The harbor houses the Maritime Museum and the Aquarium Museum.

Cargo seaport, one of the largest in the Mediterranean Sea. Genoa is the home port of many giant liners.

Aquarium in Genoa

The Aquarium in Genoa, built as part of the international exhibition Expo 1992, is considered the largest aquarium in Italy and the second largest in Europe. Aquarium building with an area of ​​3100 sq. m, one of the co-authors of which is Renzo Piano, is located in the area of ​​​​the old port of Genoa.

In 1998, the aquarium was expanded: a hundred-meter ship was attached to it, connected by a bridge to the main structure. Today, the aquarium consists of 70 tanks with a total volume of 6 million liters, housing a wide variety of fish, reptiles and invertebrates. About 1.2 million people visit the Genoa Aquarium every year.

Statue "Christ from the Abyss"

In the bay of the ancient Abbey of San Fruttuoso in the suburbs of Genoa, at a depth of 17 meters under water, divers and scuba divers are greeted by the statue of the Savior “Christ from the Abyss” (Il Cristo degli Abissi). The amazing transparency of the waters of the Italian Riviera, as well as the unusual nature of the very idea of ​​​​underwater sculpture, make this place very popular among tourists in Genoa, although you can only get to the abbey on foot or by boat.

The statue “Christ from the Abyss” was made by sculptor Guido Galletti in 1954 according to the design of diver Duilio Marcante, who thus decided to perpetuate the memory of his friend Dario Gonzatti, the first Italian scuba diver to die. The tragedy occurred just in the Bay of San Fruttuoso in 1947.

"Christ from the Abyss" is a 2.5 meter tall statue with his arms raised to the sky and his face turned upward. The Savior seems to be turning to the Lord through the thickness of the water, asking for mercy and protection for all the people of the sea - fishermen, sailors, divers.

Over 50 years of being under water, the statue became fairly overgrown with algae, and also lost part of its arm from a carelessly thrown anchor. In 2003, it was removed and restored, and in 2004 it was again immersed in its original place, but on a new pedestal.

There are two copies of the original “Christ from the Abyss” statue with the same name in the world. One of them was installed on the island of Grenada at the entrance to the harbor, although initially it also rested in the depths of the water. This “Christ from the Abyss” was donated by Genoese sailors for Grenada’s assistance in rescuing passengers from the Bianca C, which sank in the port of St. George in 1961.

The second non-original “Christ from the Abyss” was installed in the waters of Florida at a depth of eight meters, not far from the Dry Rocks underwater reef. It was presented by Italian scuba divers to their American colleagues in 1962.

Cityscapes of Genoa...

Union of Chambers of Commerce and Industry of Liguria

Roof gardens

Admiring the panorama of Genoa...

The Latin name of the city of Genoa comes from the name of the mythical city founded by the two-headed god Giano, protector of sailors and metal money. That is why this city is so “two-faced”: it looks both towards the sea and towards its interior. Many agree that Genoa is a city of contradictions,
but this does not prevent you from loving and admiring him.

THE PHOTO IS NOT MY!!! Many thanks

The city of Genoa is located in Northern Italy, on the shores of the Ligurian Sea. As a port, Genoa occupies an important economic position in Italy. The city is also the largest center of heavy industry, shipbuilding and food processing.

In addition to its developed economy, Genoa can also be proud of its cultural life. It's not for nothing that Genoa became the European Capital of Culture in 2004! Travel to Genoa and you will see that it is a city of universities and science.

The history of Genoa dates back to ancient times. Initially, there was a small Greek colony on the territory of modern Liguria. Later, a small settlement of Ligurians appeared here, which fought on the side of the Roman Empire during the Punic Wars. This area was repeatedly captured by the Corthaginians, the Ostrogoths, and during the Early Middle Ages by the Byzantines, Lombards and Franks. By the 10th century, Genoa became one of the largest ports of the Mediterranean Sea, and already at the beginning of the 12th century it received the status of an independent city-state. Genoa reached its greatest prosperity during the Crusades and then surpassed many European states in its wealth and influence. This maritime power had not only developed trade and shipbuilding industry, but also a banking system. But, as we know, after a rise comes a fall, and Genoa was no exception to the rule. Already in the 14th century, the first signs of an economic and political crisis began to appear, after which Genoa finally lost its status as a great maritime power.

Today Genoa is the most popular Italian resort, where tourists from all over the world come to combine a wonderful beach holiday with educational excursions.

Climate

The climate of Genoa is mild Mediterranean, it is formed by the proximity of the sea and the protection of the Apennines from the winds. The average temperature in Genoa in summer is +25 °C, and in winter - +10 °C. This climate allows tourists to visit Genoa at any time of the year, but the most popular period is from May to September.

Nature

Genoa is located on the coast of the beautiful Bay of Genoa.

On one side the city is washed by the azure waters of the Ligurian Sea, and on the other side it is protected by the majestic Apennine Mountains.

Attractions

From the sea, Genoa can be seen by its permanent symbol - the lighthouse “la Lanterna”, which proudly adorns the port. In the port you simply need to see the Palazzo San Giorgio - a 12th-century palace built strictly in the Renaissance style.

The main square of Genoa is Piazza Ferrari.

From here comes Via San Lorenzo, which will lead you to the Cathedral of St. Lawrence. Many tourists come to Genoa to see the greatest Cathedral Chapel of San Giovanni (1450-1465), which was created to store Christian relics. The real decoration of the city is the Loggia dei Mercanti; it was in this building that the first Italian commodity exchange was located. And the Porta Soprano gate will remind you of the former medieval power of Genoa; in the 12th century it was part of the city wall.

A mandatory part of any excursion program is a visit to the Church of St. John the Baptist (1451), the Palazzi dei Rolli (under UNESCO protection), the Doge's Palace and the University Palace. Try to include in your excursion a visit to the National Gallery of Liguria, the Gallery of Mirrors, the Palazzo Bianco painting gallery, the Palazzo Rosso art gallery, and the House of Columbus.

Nutrition

Fans of Italian cuisine will be very pleased with the restaurants in Genoa, and lovers of other culinary styles will be able to find an establishment to suit their taste.

The Italian cuisine restaurant Da Genio will surprise its guests first with an amazingly beautiful black and white interior, and then offer unique dishes. The restaurant's specialties are stuffed anchovies and cod with olives. The atmosphere at Da Guglie is more relaxed, but the menu is just as varied as the previous restaurant. Most of the dishes here are prepared according to old Ligurian recipes: fish pancakes, artichoke pie and other delicacies. La Berlocca restaurant constantly surprises its customers with new culinary masterpieces; the menu is updated every season. The most popular dish here is potato dumplings with vegetables. In addition, this restaurant has its own wine cellar; any visitor can treat himself to a bottle of good wine from there.

The oldest and most famous pizzeria in Genoa is Tristano e Isotta, located in the old town. This is a great place to visit in between sightseeing.

Accommodation

Family hotels are an excellent economical option for accommodation in Genoa. Large companies choose the same accommodation option. There are family hotels in every area of ​​Genoa, so finding them is not at all difficult. It is noteworthy that for an affordable price you will be provided with excellent living conditions.

The magnificent Grand Hotel Arenzano 4* is located right on the embankment. The hotel has a large park and garden, an Olympic swimming pool and a children's pool, a gourmet Mediterranean restaurant and a private beach.

Just a few steps from the main street of Genoa is the luxurious Melia Genova 5* hotel. The hotel building was designed and built back in 1929. In the hotel corridors and restaurant halls there are paintings by famous Italian artists, and in some rooms there are works by famous photographers.

You can book luxury apartments overlooking the marina and yachts at the MarinaPlace Resort 4* hotel. The hotel is located close to Genoa airport.

Entertainment and relaxation

Numerous world-class festivals are held annually in Genoa. Before Christmas, Genoa celebrates the Circus Arts Festival, during which colorful performances with famous circus groups take place in theaters and concert halls, on the streets and squares of the city. This festival is so large-scale that it is accompanied by various fairs: crafts, books, etc.

One of the largest aquariums in Europe is located right here in Genoa. Not only children, but also adults will be delighted with the shows and performances that are held here every day, and, of course, with the variety of sea inhabitants living in the aquarium.

The most popular beaches among tourists are Bagni La Marina, Bagni Vittoria, Bagni Aldebaran and Bagni Maddalena. These beaches are visited by lovers of a calm and serene holiday, as well as fans of sports recreation.

Magnificent natural places Genoa and its surroundings can be seen on a Ferrovia Genova-Casella Railroad tour. No less interesting natural attractions of Genoa are collected in the luxurious botanical garden Orto botanico.

Favorite places for young people are the New Ghost music club and the Senhor Do Bonfim disco.

Purchases

Genoa is a great place for shopping, because here you can find boutiques of famous brands, souvenir shops, antique shops, as well as shops with fresh products from the gardens, vegetable gardens and farms of Genoa. A huge number of them are located on Galleria Mazzini. If you're lucky, you might catch a sales season when almost all stores offer incredible discounts. Such attractions of unprecedented generosity take place several times a year. Not far from the railway station there is a large shopping mall Fiumara.

Look for world-famous brands and boutiques of famous Italian designers on Via XX Settembre, in the city center. There you will find Benetton, Zara, and Mexx.

Plus, if you just stroll around the city, you're bound to come across some charming flea markets, old bookstores and very original souvenir shops. So don’t be lazy to walk around if you want to show off your interesting purchases later!

Transport

Public transport in Genoa is represented by buses and metro.

The fastest way to get to the city center is by taking the metro, which has 10 stations and only one line.

The cost of travel on public transport is as follows: for a short trip 0.70 euros, for 90 minutes travel 1.20 euros, for the whole day 3.50 euros. Travel tickets can be purchased at any newspaper or tobacco kiosk and in special ticket machines at bus stops.

Tourists who plan to frequently travel by public transport can purchase a “welcome” card, which provides certain benefits not only on travel, but also on other tickets.

An elevator will take you from the high part of the city to the low part. You can order a taxi by calling 5966.

Connection

You can use a regular landline telephone in Genoa almost everywhere: in the city from a pay phone, in cafes and restaurants, in a hotel. There are two ways to pay for calls: regular coins and prepaid cards. Interesting feature telecommunications in Italy is that there are no generally set tariffs, so the cost of a call from one place can differ significantly from a call from another place.

It may also be that calls from a hotel will cost you less than calls from a public telephone.

There are 4 mobile operators in Italy: TIM, Tre, Vodafone and I WIND. They provide a large selection of tariff plans and interesting offers. Ask your service provider about all possible connection options. Just remember that mobile phone service in Italy is one of the most expensive in Europe.

Using the Internet in Genoa is easy. The city has a large number of Internet cafes, as well as wireless access points. Many restaurants and hotels provide Wi-Fi connection to their customers for free.

Safety

When you go on an independent walk around the city or an excursion with a group of tourists, try not to take large sums money without need.

It is also better to leave other valuables in your hotel room. In most restaurants in the city you can pay by credit card. Carry your mobile phone and camera in a bag, not in a case on a strap. This way your belongings will be reliably protected from pickpockets.

Business climate

In Genoa there is the Fiera di Genova exhibition center, which is popularly called “born of the sea”. Every year, this exhibition center hosts many exhibitions, most of which are dedicated to shipping, shipbuilding and the sea in general. The most important event in the shipping world is the Genoa International Boat Show.

Those who are not interested in this field are looking forward to the Euroflora exhibition. The exhibition center is literally blooming, as it is filled with rare plant species, decorative waterfalls and fountains. Leading Italian designers and florists will conduct master classes for exhibition visitors.

If you have planned to get acquainted with all the main attractions of Genoa as soon as possible, we recommend that you go to Porta Principe station. Excursion buses depart daily from the railway station. On the spot you can choose the most complete and interesting excursion for you.

The main tourist office is located in Piazza Ferrari, in the city center. Here you can get a lot of information useful for tourists: about upcoming events, rules of conduct in certain places, about transport and much more. You can also pick up a city map at the office. Just remember that the office is open on weekdays.