Elbrus from the Yugan May holidays. Elbrus - climbing in May Elbrus May

In May - to Elbrus

After the hike we stopped in the village of Terskol. After eating Khychan and drinking beer, we took the cable car and, after a couple of hours, reached the barrels. The barrels were completely filled with people. Mostly climbers and military personnel from the military hour traditionally trying to climb Elbrus on May 9th. There were no places in the barrels, and we couldn’t pay 80 rubles per night. The tent was set up inside a broken barrel, and it turned out well. That same day we decided to run to the Shelter of 11, or rather to the place where it was. We made it along the snowcat road in 3 hours. The weather was not great, but visibility was good. Climbers also ran from barrels.

The next day the weather did not improve, and we climbed a little in the surrounding icefalls. All the climbers and military began to slowly leave.

Exactly on May 9 the weather became better. We decided to try it. We left at 5.00. Snow piled up and we had to walk all the way to the rescuers' houses - trailers. On the rocks of 9 there are now two trailers attached to the rocks with cables. We rested in one of them, because... tired of the strong wind and trail. The time was around 8:00. At 9.00 we went further. As you climb into the area Pastukhov rocks, the wind began to intensify. At times the front one in the bunch is not visible due to strong winds and dense drifting snow. The glasses freeze instantly. The windproof mask was completely frozen with the beard, and it was impossible to tear it off. In a few hours we reached the top of the Pastukhov rocks. Here we started to feel completely overwhelmed. And it became clear that the weather was completely deteriorating. In general, after taking pictures, it was decided to stop the outrage and return.

The next day the weather began to improve in the evening. In the evening we moved to the area of ​​9 rocks in order to spend the night in a trailer and leave early in the morning. As far as equipment goes, we had all the warm things, in abundance. Gas burner and cylinders. Two large capes made of waterproof cloth. The vessel is an army bowler hat. Two shovels. At least all this equipment made it possible, in emergency circumstances, to dig a hole, cover ourselves with capes and prepare food.

The special equipment included a standard set of pieces of iron, allowing one to work on arbitrary ice slopes. Rope 50m + auxiliary.

Also, a certain amount of tea with lemon and all sorts of high-calorie foods were taken. Sweets, etc.

We didn't have an alarm clock, so we slept until 8.30. We were woken up by Dmitry who got up from the barrels. The wind was quite strong and we, doubting whether it was worth going, went to the top.

On the first section to the Pastukhov rocks, the wind force gradually increased. This section was not technically difficult, because The steepness is not great and there are no large areas of open ice. The entire path is marked with poles. Having reached the stones at the top of the cliffs, we made our first stop. I didn't have to sit for long because... It cooled down.

Then it got worse. Almost the entire area from the rocks to the beginning of the oblique shelf consists of open, hard “bottle” ice. In some places there are almost perfect mirrors about 5 meters long. Walking over such mirrors in crampons does not even leave scratches on them. In addition, the following phenomenon began in this area. Whirlwinds or tornadoes began to form from the area of ​​the saddle against the backdrop of strong winds. They are clearly visible, because In these vortices, drifting snow and tuff sand spin at high speed. The vortices moved from the saddle through the Pastukhov rocks to the east. At the edges of such a vortex, the wind speed increased significantly. When you get into such a whirlwind, it seems that you are grabbed by your backpack and actually dragged a meter down. Because vortices, and their direction of movement are clearly visible, the following tactics were used. A few seconds before getting into the whirlwind, you need to drive the front teeth deeper, drive the ice ax sideways and stand between the teeth and the ice ax and hold on until the wind subsides. At least in this position it doesn’t tear off. In this mode, it took 1.5 hours to reach the oblique shelf, passing dangerous sections during strong winds on all fours, for 3 steps. There is open ice throughout the entire area.

It became easier on the slanting shelf, because... the whirlwinds were already flying below us, and the ice was replaced by hard firn and the steepness decreased. Walking along an oblique shelf is very tedious and psychologically difficult, although technically the section is easier. The steepness in some places is 30 degrees and firn. 2.5 hours until reaching the saddle. At the saddle the wind became quieter. In half an hour we reached the ruins of the hut, along an almost flat section. Here we heated tea on gas. The cylinders were filled with our usual gas, which we bought in the winter. This gas works much better in cold weather than the “native” one. We secured backpacks with equipment to the remains of the hut.

From the hut to the western peak there is an open ice slope of 45 degrees steepness. This is the right way to go to the top. First we move traverse the slope of the western peak to the north to a small rocky ridge. From there climb up about 100m 40 degrees then walk along the plateau to the top.

At the top the wind died down completely and it became warm. They even took off their masks. We were shown fabulous pictures of a sea of ​​clouds with five-thousander islands of the Caucasus sticking out of them. We felt the same cobblestone on the top with a blue sign “300 years of the fleet”, which is on this moment the highest point in Russia. And they unfurled the MAI flag on the western peak on May 11, 2000 at 14.00. By the way, this same flag has been at the North Pole and at the orbital space station WORLD, and many other places.

We walked down the descent very carefully, remembering how on the descents they fly off on bare ice into a corpse collection and other troubles. We rested often. In general, the descent was easier, because the wind has decreased significantly. But walking on icy mirrors to descend is more difficult. At the Pastukhov rocks we found ourselves in a terrible cloud belt. Visibility dropped to 5m. In this situation, a compass helped a lot, in which a huge bubble was inflated from the height, and knowledge of the azimuths from Pastukhov to the 9-rocks, and from the 9-rocks to the barrels. It is recommended to calculate them in advance using the map. If we had not done this, then we would probably have needed the equipment we took. We reached 9 rocks, searching for each next pin for 5–20 minutes. It’s not that simple, and there are all sorts of extra things stuck around. So we reached the ridge to the rocks of 9. We also went in azimuth from the rocks and ran into barrels. Moreover, the cloudiness hung 100m above the barrels. We were on the barrels around 9 pm.

We spent the night on barrels. In the morning we went down to the cable car. The weather was sunny, and Elbrus was perfectly visible. We said goodbye like this...

Goodbye Grandpa, don't cough?!

1. Thermal pants Arcteryx Phase SL Boxer Legion. Pleasant, cold when it's hot and hot when it's cold. They dry quickly, wick away moisture, and this happens. I don't wear cotton underwear anymore.
2. Pants The North Face Warm Tights. Lightweight thermal pants for high activity. Skiing in Polyana is good, but going to Elbrus is not so good - you need something warmer. But for this case I had Norrona ski shorts (not shown in the photo). Very warm and light ¾ shorts on Primaloft Alpha, and I lined them under the membrane on the saddle.
3. Membrane pants Bask Alpine Expert.
4. Thermal underwear Norrona Super Hoodie.
5. Fleece Norrona Lofoten Warm1.
6. 4th layer Norrona Falketind Primaloft 60. Lightweight, warm, windproof jacket for high activity.
7. Membrane jacket Haglofs on GoreTex. Model for skis and snowboards with a snow skirt.
8. Down jacket Haglofs Mojo Down Hood. Very warm and light down jacket. Compact when folded.
9. Merino wool socks Lorpen, medium density.
10. Double high altitude boots Scarpa Phantom 6000 with integrated leggings. I took it because out of all the selection in the Sport-Marathon store, they were the only ones that were comfortable. I didn’t specifically chase them.
11. Cats Petzl Vasak.
12. Gloves Haglofs Regulus. Basic gloves with a windstopper for everyday walking.
13. Overhead gloves Sivera Omeshi. Ingenious tops made of membrane fabric.
14. Warm gloves Red Fox Zip THL. I put Haglofs on over my gloves when it got cold. I wouldn’t say that they are very warm, up to -20 somewhere. The gloves have a convenient zipper that allows you to stick out your hand with a thinner glove and wipe away snot, for example, or take a photo.
15. Triangular headband-scarf around the neck made of Decathlon to prevent the wind. I like it better than the buff because it can be unfastened with Velcro instead of being removed over the head.
16. Balaclava-balaclava for snowmobile. Not very thick, but with a windstopper in the face area, as well as a slot for the nose and holes for the mouth.
17. Ski mask Julbo Zebra with photochromic ones! Category 4 lenses! 1 mask for all weather conditions: from cloudy to bright.
18. cap Haglofs. A regular, breathable fleece hat. Not very warm, but I expected that I would walk in the hood of a membrane jacket, and then in a balaclava. That's how it was and it was comfortable. Just in case, I had a warmer Polartec hat with a windstopper, but it wasn’t needed.
19. Mountaineering glasses Julbo Drus. They turned out to be not very comfortable: they sit at an angle to the face, there is a large gap between the eyebrow lenses, into which bright light flows.
20. Trekking poles Black Diamond Pro.
21. Ice ax All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions, I bought it in the Cheget clearing at an equipment rental.
22. Several dry bags Sea-To-Summit for snacks, spare clothes, equipment.
23. Thermos Stanley 1L. A 0.7 thermos would be enough for me, I don’t drink that much. The thermos doesn't hold the temperature very well, more like a summer one. Thermos thermoses are better.
24. Backpack Klattermusen Arvaker 40L.
25. System Petzl+ lanyard mustache Dinacon Nexion+2 carbines Boxing ring(My uncle used to make them).

Duration: 11 days
Length: 38 km.
Maximum altitude: 5642 m.
Vertical ascent/descent on Google Earth: + 4000m. / -4000 m.

This trip to Elbrus turned out to be unusual. Usually I organize my hikes and trips myself, but this time I decided to relax both my soul and my head, leaving all the questions about organizing the climb to my friend and mountain guide Zhenya Pismenny. That is why the story will not contain the usual useful contacts, prices, maps, tracks and coordinates (by the way, every year the trail to Elbrus is laid anew, so our track is useless in any case!). This note is a short photo story about a trip to Elbrus during the May holidays, as a result of which all six members of our team managed to climb the mountain. highest peak Caucasus, Russia and Europe. And I just want to tell mountain lovers about such a cool opportunity as climbing Elbrus in May.

Idea

Five years ago I was already on Elbrus. Then my friend and I walked the most beautiful route “Elbrus from north to south” with an overnight stay on the saddle. But due to weather conditions, it was not possible to climb to the top. So the idea was born to still climb Elbrus, but according to the classics, from the south. And to make it more interesting, we decided to do it in May. Knowing about the unstable weather on Elbrus in the first half of May, I initially planned for the entire trip for 11 days instead of the classic 8-9 days for climbing Elbrus from the south. A couple of spare days definitely won't hurt. And if we climb quickly, there will be no problems with how to spend time in the mountains!

Team

Sometimes I like to go to the mountains alone, but still mountains for me are not only leisure, but also a great chance to see friends. And not in a bar on Friday over a glass of beer, but in a completely different format. When the team was finally completed (all the guys sent me confirmation of ticket purchases), we could consider that the issue of completing the team was over.

As a "bonus" I sent a link to Zhenya's film about Elbrus. Look how beautiful it is! By the way, all the photographs in the film were also taken by Zhenya. Must watch with sound. The film contains a lot of interesting and useful information.

With or without a guide?

Due to my heavy workload, I didn’t have time to organize the climb on my own, and the whole group of us decided that we could slightly increase the budget of our trip and invite my friend Zhenya Pismenny as a guide. Before making a decision, I compiled this list of advantages of climbing with a guide:

• Due to Zhenya’s experience in weather forecasting on the Mountain, helping participants with the right advice, knowing the route, maintaining the optimal pace of participants, etc. Ascension probability increases from 60% to 80%. Let me clarify: if the weather is ideal, we will come in ourselves. With “variable” the probability with Zhenya is many times higher.
• If it is impossible to climb Elbrus due to weather conditions, together with Zhenya, we will be able to come up with new tricks on the spot so as not to sit in a shelter and/or hotel, but to walk in the mountains (glaciers, gorges, valleys). I can’t do it either, of course I was there, but I know the places 100 times worse.
• Personally, it will be easier for me. All organizational issues are resolved by Zhenya. He is like a duck to water on Elbrus. After all, 169 successful ascents are behind us!
• In 10 days with Zhenya we will learn a huge amount of interesting information. And not only about Elbrus and the Caucasus, but also about mountaineering in general. Even me. Zhenya was almost everywhere, on the steepest peaks of the world - McKinley, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Matterhorn, Ama Dablam. There's definitely something to talk about!
• I plan to continue to climb serious peaks with Zhenya. The plans include Lenin Peak, Aconcagua, Khan Tengri, Matterhorn. It is very useful to “get in touch” with him for those who plan to continue hiking in big mountains.

Despite the fact that a trip in this format is more expensive, we unanimously decided to go with Zhenya. The benefits are significant and worth it. Of course, you may have your own solution. And whoever wants to go to Elbrus (or another mountain peak) with Zhenya can find his contacts on the “guides” page.

Equipment

Properly selected equipment is a super important point in any climb, and especially in the off-season, which is Elbrus in May. I sent the guys links to three articles on the Sports Marathon blog. This saved Zhenya and I a lot of time answering questions like “why such a warm down jacket” and “can we not wear double boots”?

I made a complete list of all the necessary equipment somewhere in February and was amazed at how much you need, even if you plan to go without a tent and live in a hotel and hut. The only thing that saved us was the new huge 110-liter Ortlieb trunk, which fit everything. And what didn’t fit and/or needed to be at hand - documents, electronics, all sorts of small things - I put in the assault backpack. A full list of equipment that I took with me for climbing Elbrus from the south in May will be available a little later >.

Physical training

We discussed physical training with Zhenya and friends. Right after the new year, I bought a gym membership. But there was so much work, including business trips, that I started walking only in mid-February and before leaving for Elbrus I managed to do about twenty training sessions. It also helped me a lot that a month and a half before Elbrus I went on a ski tour to the Alps [the report is not ready yet]. For six full days My friend and I climbed three peaks with a height of about 2500 m and skied from the ski lifts for another three days.

Nutrition

During this trip, we planned to live not in a tent, as usual, but in a hotel and shelter. Therefore, we didn’t take any food with us, although experienced high-altitude friends advised us to take with us food to prepare the “correct” vitamin drinks: jelly, compotes (dried apricots, raisins, prunes), pureed lemon with sugar and tea with cranberries.

Road to Elbrus

This is an unusual format for a trip to the mountains for me. This time, for only the third time in my life, I decided to relax and dump all the questions about organizing the trip and climbing on my old friend Zhenya. Getting off the train early in the morning in MinVody (it’s easier for me from Sochi by train), I turn on the “rest” mode and turn off the organizational-logical part of the brain. Let him rest this time :)

At lunchtime, together with Zhenya and Timur (he also came with me by train), we go to the airport to meet the rest of the team - my friends from Moscow, Krasnoyarsk and Barnaul. Today is Danil’s birthday, but everyone left the airport on their own. That's sports discipline!

The airport is full of athletes - climbers, tourists, guides. This is not surprising, because everyone wants to spend the May holidays meaningfully, for example, to “run” to Elbrus as part of international festival Red Fox Elbrus Race or just go to the mountain in the #elbrusNErace format, like us. I will post photos under this tag in my instagram.

In three and a half hours, calmly and without the passport checks at checkpoints that were already familiar to me from previous trips to the Elbrus region, we drove from MinVod to Terskol. We checked into the Snow Leopard Hotel, located a five-minute walk from Chegetskaya Polyana. At first I was surprised why we settled not in Azau, but here, but then I realized that Zhenya was right. It's quiet here and surrounded by forest. Much more comfortable than in Azau. I'm pleasantly surprised.

When the day after tomorrow you have to spend the night at an altitude of almost 4000 meters, the last thing you want at this moment is to get food poisoning in some strange eatery... Therefore, for dinner we go to a proven place, according to Zhenya, to one of the cafes on the Chegetskaya Polyana . Here he constantly has dinner with groups, and everything is ok. Shurpa (lamb soup with potatoes), khichina (something like thin pies made from pancake dough) stuffed with potatoes and cheese, salad and beer for dinner. For everything, 700 rubles per person. Tasty, satisfying and inexpensive!

After dinner, we ran into one of the local climbing equipment rentals to pick up telescopic trekking poles for Artyom and Danila. They don't have their own yet. The guys in the mountains are some for the first time and some are only for the second time. Unlike “hardware” - crampons, ice axes and systems, which we will need later, we need poles tomorrow.

In the evening, over tea, Zhenya once again explained in detail the program of our trip, and everyone went to bed. It’s already midnight for two “Siberians” from our team, and tomorrow is their first big mountain. “Do it normally - everything will be fine!” - I remembered a local Caucasian saying that I first heard ten years ago.

It’s amazing how many formats there can be for trips to the mountains... Throughout my student years and ten years after graduating from university, mountains were associated for me with a tent, a large backpack and multi-day hikes. Five years ago, my wife and I moved to Sochi, and the mountains opened up for us in a new way. Made possible day hikes in the mountains "under forecast" (only in good weather) and in fast&light format (“quickly and lightly”) in sneakers or with a two-year-old son in a carrying backpack on his back.

This time our trip to the mountains is in luxury edition format. I don't think I've tried this before. First, we will be sleeping in hotel or shelter beds for the entire ten nights of this trip. Secondly, you will have a backpack with a maximum volume of 30 liters with a minimum weight (down jacket, thermos, spare glasses or mask, gloves, GPS, and so on). Well, and thirdly, this time I rest not only my soul, but also my head. All issues related to logistics and the route are decided for us by our guide, my friend Zhenya.

Acclimatization hike to Mount Cheget

Today is our first day of the active part of the program. After sleeping and having breakfast (I took scrambled eggs and an omelet), at 9 am we took the first chairs of the Cheget cable car to an altitude of 3000 meters. From here, in less than two hours, from beautiful views on Elbrus on one side and the impregnable northern walls of the four-thousand-meter mountains Donguz-Orun and Nakra on the other, we gained 500 vertical meters with our own feet, climbing Mount Cheget (3500 m.) Compared to the traverse of Elbrus from north to south, which we did five years ago , such a load seems ridiculous and frivolous, but according to Zhenya, such a load is more than enough to activate acclimatization processes (adaptation to altitude) in the body.

Pre-summit ridge of Mount Cheget

The load was just right. Everyone is in a great mood, and this is the most important thing for me. After all, we are on vacation!

After the walk - a delicious lunch, an unexpected meeting with a classmate (haven't seen each other since school!), playing board games with the whole group and dinner at the hotel. How different this is from my usual mode of mountain autonomous hiking. There is no way to disconnect from civilization (it catches all around cellular, and in the hotel there is generally wi-fi) and be alone in silence with friends. But what a great alternative this is to the dull vegetation of the May holidays in the city! Where was I before...

In the morning I remembered an interesting experience with heart rate measurements on our Elbrus traverse in the summer of 2012 and decided that it would be interesting to compare how the body would react to a completely different option for climbing Elbrus. The morning pulse measurement showed a value of 68. A slight increase compared to home values ​​(I usually have 53-56) is the body’s natural reaction to a small, but still low, altitude. After all, here in Terskol, it is about 2000 meters. Pulse before bed - 75. Increase compared to the morning - +8 beats. There is growth, but it is small. All is good.

P.S. Once again, I was convinced of how cool it is to go to the mountains with professional guides. It was very sad to look at the guys who could not go further than hundreds of meters from the upper station of the Cheget cable car just because they did not know that a border pass is required to climb Cheget. And on the descent, with bated breath, we observed a group of other “amateurs” cutting an avalanche-dangerous slope in a dense group of ten tourists. Against the backdrop of all this, our “walk” was truly infinitely safer.

Acclimatization exit from Mir station to Shelter 11

The second day of our acclimatization before climbing Elbrus. We take the Azau cable car up to the Mir station, which is located at an altitude of 3500 meters. From this place, on foot, we climb to the “Shelter of the Eleven”, located at an altitude of 4100 m. The shelter itself has long been gone, but since 1938 there was a legendary and highest mountain shelter in the USSR. In 1998, the shelter burned down, leaving only the former diesel building, the Diesel Hut, which now has several places to stay.

Today's 600 meters of climb were suspiciously easy. I even gave a lecture on the advantages of ski touring over winter mountain tourism, mountaineering and alpine skiing I managed to read it to the guys on the go :)) The guys are cheerful and cheerful, the weather is whispering, and even the dangerous ice is covered with snow, which is so necessary for all of us who are now on the mountain.

Main Caucasus ridge(Prisma filter)

The main impression of the day is the crispy white snow underfoot. A fantastic contrast compared to August 2012, when, after climbing Elbrus from the north and spending the night on the saddle, we descended along the southern slope, which at an altitude below 4000 meters was a substance of water and snow in a 1:1 ratio. In general, May on Elbrus is completely positive, and right now I want to buy tickets for next year;))

Having descended to Azau, we went to have lunch at another cafe (restaurant?). Polite waiters, delicious dishes (lamb shish kebab and shurpa - 5+!) and extremely reasonable prices. Again the result is higher than expectations (which, fortunately, were few). I am pleasantly surprised by the progress in Terskol. We are especially pleased with important infrastructure projects - a new cable car, updated asphalt road surface and powerful anti-avalanche dams under northern slopes Chegeta.

We all felt the slight sensations associated with being at an altitude above 4000 meters, having already descended into the valley. Almost everyone had a slight headache, but it went away after a couple of hours. We hope that the body has received another vaccination with height and will have time to throw a large batch of red blood cells into the blood by tomorrow morning;)

Acclimatization climb to the top of the “ridge”

Today is our third day of acclimatization before climbing Elbrus. We move from the hotel in the village of Cheget to the heights. We will live in the “Hotel Heart Elbrus” shelter at an altitude of 3800 meters. The height is already real. By the way, this is the height of Mount Fuji in Japan, highest point Austria (Glossglockner Mountains) and Mount Cook in New Zealand (list). Here we have a separate eight-bed room with views of Donguz-Orun and Nakra, our own dining table and even 3G directly from the bed. As a tent camper, this level of comfort is unusual for me. It's -5 outside, and +12 in the room! Vitalik’s words spoken at dinner: “the only thing that’s annoying is that tomorrow you’ll have to strain,” illustrate the situation perfectly ;)

After checking in, at a brisk pace, in just an hour and forty-five we completed the acclimatization hike to an altitude of 4500. According to Zhenya, the pace was excellent, faster than average. It seems that only the guys overtook us;) On the “ridge” where we climbed, the weather was harsh like winter. Blizzard, wind. To climb Elbrus, I want better weather. “The worse the weather during acclimatization, the better during the ascent!” - says Zhenya. Well, let's hope we're lucky!

In terms of health, everything is also very cool! It's amazing how easy acclimatization can be with the right approach. Only Artyom is not doing well. He also brought a cold from home and yesterday, in order to recover faster, he skipped the acclimatization trip at 4100.

Our private room at an altitude of 3800 meters

In the evening we played in an interesting board game“Perudo”, and before going to bed we read aloud (it’s good that we have our own separate room!) a new and long-awaited domestic textbook on mountaineering. We started with the first chapter: “History of domestic mountaineering.” The piece about Krasnoyarsk pillars and the phenomenon of stolbism went especially well! After all, almost all of us met each other while studying in Krasnoyarsk;))

Acclimatization hike to Pastukhov rocks

There are still manifestations of adaptation to altitude. I slept poorly today, I couldn’t fall asleep for a long time. I decided not to take sleeping pills out of principle (and the new textbook “School of Mountaineering” does not recommend their use at altitude), but in the morning I still took an aspirin tablet. The symptoms are mild, but why bother?

We've walked a lot today. A whole seven hours with a gain of +1000 meters. Let's breathe properly! According to the plan, it was enough to go to the top of the Pastukhov rocks (4700), but Vitalik and I climbed to a height of 4807. Six years ago we climbed to this height while climbing Mont Blanc. In the Alps there are no higher mountains, but in the Caucasus this is a so-so height... People go up there for acclimatization =)

The weather is not resort weather. It’s good that the equipment, once again, pleases us. The beloved La Sportiva Spantik double climbing boots are spot on as always. Warm, comfortable, do not get wet and do not absorb snow. Important accessories - two ski masks (one main, the second spare, in case the first one fogs up or freezes), category 4 mountaineering goggles, mittens and gloves - all this came in handy. Well, the navigator, of course, adds safety in such weather. True, the Stanley thermos was disappointing. Compared with Thermos. Cools down faster. True, it’s 2 times cheaper.. So then think about what to take =)

Day of rest. Snow activities

Today is our day of rest, and I also slept great! Apparently, fatigue after yesterday's load and ongoing acclimatization took their toll. In the morning we looked at the weather forecast, and it became clear that we could not postpone the ascent. You need to go out next night. Later, the weather window will close, and such winds will begin that at the top, at -20 degrees and a wind of 55 km/h, it will feel about -35. And this is already a bit harsh..

At lunchtime we walked a hundred meters away from the shelter to the nearest safe steep slope without rocks or cracks, with a gentle slope, and conducted snow lessons. One of the six of us, completely new to the mountains, had never worn crampons or used an ice ax. Another had only one day of a similar experience a year ago. Overall, it was fun. Thanks to Zhenya for an interesting day. I learned a lot of interesting things myself.

After snow activities, we packed our backpacks for the climb and, having had dinner early, went to bed, because the climb was scheduled for 2:50 am! Before going to bed, a good sign - we finally saw both peaks of Elbrus. It is clearly visible that the ice in the area of ​​the Pastukhov rocks was covered with fresh snow. It seems that the gray-haired giant is still going to let us to the top this time!

Summit Day. Climbing Elbrus

Elbrus let us in! The weather on the day of the ascent (considering that it was May) was simply magical! It seems that it was the best weather day of all May 2017!! In the morning, during the ascent (2:52 on the alarm clock), at an altitude of 4500 it was around -10, light frost with a wind of 5-10 km/h. This gave a perceived temperature of about -15. At the top, according to the snow forecast, it was -18 with a wind of 10-15 km/h, which gave a perceived temperature of -20 - 25. The very next day, despite clear weather, the wind at the top increased to 25 km/h, which it felt like -29.

(c) Evgeniy Pismenny

For the third time in my life I went on a guided climb (before that there was Mont Blanc and Viatau), and for the third time everything went well. Now I know for sure that the probability of climbing success with this approach increases.. The guide sets the correct time for the assault, checks your equipment, and, if necessary, orders a snowcat for you to climb higher (we, for example, climbed to a height of 4500, higher in this since the snowcats did not rise, the slope was harsh), selects the optimal exit time and the correct pace of movement, monitors all members of the group, especially the weakest. From you, as a participant, little is required - to prepare as best as possible for the climb - to improve your physical fitness to a good level and to buy the best possible equipment that will provide you with comfort (in the best case) and safety (if it gets really tough).

Beautiful Ushba above the clouds
(c) Evgeniy Pismenny

I will not specifically describe the sensations of the ascent. I want you to experience this for yourself. Six hours above the clouds in thin air, when you need to take a breath for every step, is a real spacewalk. I really liked the direct access to the top of Elbrus after a long stretch of movement along the edge of the crater. Elbrus is a truly huge mountain. A real volcano and giant! And of course, I am very glad that the flag of my favorite Sports Marathon is once again at the top!

(c) Evgeniy Pismenny

Interestingly, I was absolutely right about the distribution of forces. It feels like the load on the day of ascent is divided into three approximately equal parts: 1) ascent from the shelter to the saddle, 2) ascent from the top and return to the saddle, 3) descent from the saddle to the shelter. The last, third part is very exhausting. After all, from the top to the shelters located at altitudes from 3500 to 4000 meters, from 1500 to 2000 meters of descent. After climbing a mountain, this is a serious test for the muscles of the legs and knees. And we also got into a cloud. You can’t see a thing, and even the sun is shining through the clouds! They didn’t get burned only because they knew how dangerous such a situation was. Everyone wore balaclavas, no matter how hot it was.

P.S. I want to say again that this time, unlike 2012, when we walked the entire mountain from north to south with our own feet, on the day of ascent we used a snowcat to climb from the height of our shelter (3800 m) to a height of 4500 m (in summer snowcat and rises to 4900-5000), and some of us also took advantage of the opportunity to go down on a snowmobile from a height of about 4500 (for money, of course). This, of course, is not as sporty, but this time the task was different - to enter with our entire team, in which the experience and strengths of the participants were still very different. And if you think about it, why go where you can go? Probably only if you are an athlete and set ambitious sports goals for yourself.

Rest. Descent into the valley

Today is our rest day after the climb. We had breakfast, collected our trunks and backpacks and took the cable car down into the valley. It's summer below. Warm. Participants in the Elbrus race in shorts and T-shirts run back and forth, getting in shape. For the rest of the day, all we did was have lunch and dinner. Everyone is happy and satisfied. We are planning what we will do in the remaining reserve days before departure.

Walk along the Adyl-Su gorge

HAPPY DAY! A walk along the Adyl-Su gorge under the smell of pine trees and the singing of birds is a magical day after the eternal snows of Elbrus. I've been here twice already - during our ski touring climb to Viatau and even earlier, on snowshoes. Happy to be hanging out here again. Magical place! In the near future, in summer or early autumn, I need to come here with my son. This is a great place to meet big mountains. But, perhaps, for safety, it’s still worth buying a child’s harness so that you can belay him in a couple of places. In the Alps, I saw how great the local kids are doing this, walking with their kids.

Some of the passes from the Adilsu Gorge lead to Georgia, so a passport and a pre-arranged border pass are required for walking along the gorge. It is for this reason that commercial groups are no longer brought here. Thanks to Zhenya for such a great opportunity!

It's a pity that tomorrow is the last day of our trip. To complete the program, it would be necessary to add three more days: one for rock activities, one day for snow and ice activities and, for example, another day of getting acquainted with ski touring. Then our program could easily be called “Super Elbrus Region”! True, Zhenya does not agree. Says that for “ ordinary person” this is already too much, too many mountains at once =)

P.S. Once again on this trip I am happy that in addition to my LaSportiva Spantik double mountaineering boots I took my good old SALOMON Scrambler FG, intended, in fact, for winter walking and snowshoeing. They are light, soft and at the same time hold amazingly well on the rocks. Today on the trek through the Adyl-su gorge they were perfect! Although, of course, this is not a replacement for classic trekking boots. There is no ankle support, and the rubber on the sole is soft, it won’t last long walks over rocks. But it’s still interesting to discover your favorite and not at all new things in a new way.

Car excursion to the village of Upper Balkaria

One more day in the Elbrus region, which we can spend on traveling! Zhenya made an agreement with the driver, and for the whole day we go on an excursion to the village of Upper Balkaria. On the way we stop at " Blue Lakes"and we walk along old road along the canyon. Upper Balkaria is perhaps the most beautiful village in the Caucasus after Krasnaya Polyana that I have been to. And in general, I am lucky both in the Caucasus in general and in the Elbrus region in particular. This is already my fifth trip to these places, and the impressions are always positive. From nature, from people, from delicious food.... Happy! The guys are also in high spirits. Such a contrast after the hard work on the mountain. What a great fellow I am for adding these extra days to our program. How much would this journey be lost without these last days!

Departure

We got some sleep. We had breakfast. In the Cheget meadow we bought souvenirs - wool products, sheep skins, local sweets. For our farewell dinner we ordered trout. It seems that I have never returned from the mountains so rested, sleepy and well-fed;) On the road from Cheget to MinVod we discussed plans for the next hikes. The guys have different desires: some want to South America, to Aconcagua, and some to Altai, to Belukha, followed by rafting on the Katun. Well, let's decide! It’s so great that there is a great company and so many places you want to visit!

OUR PROGRAM

It would be very good to add a couple of extra days to the classic program for climbing Elbrus. It’s great that we were lucky with the weather, and we used the spare days for very bright and positive days - a walk in the Adylsu gorge and a car trip to the village of Upper Balkaria.

CONCLUSIONS

• Elbrus was easier than I expected. I never felt sick and always had an appetite. I took a headache pill only once. I think the whole point is that, unlike the previous trip to Elbrus, a traverse from north to south, when we all walked on our feet and slept in a tent, this time we had a comfortable, if not to say luxury-style with accommodation in a warm and comfortable shelter, tasty and satisfying food and a ride on a snowcat (in the summer you can often get up to a height of 4800 - 4900, but in May 2017 snowcats could only go up to a height of 4500 meters). Of course, training in the gym before leaving and a ski touring trip to the Alps a month and a half before Elbrus and previous experience at a similar altitude - trekking in Nepal and the Elbrus traverse - also helped. After this climb I think I'm ready for altitudes above 6.000 or even Lenin Peak.
• Despite a competent pre-acclimatization program, symptoms of mountain sickness in one of my friends appeared only when we reached the col on the day of ascent. The loss of coordination was so strong that he could simply fly off the path into the abyss. Walked like he was drunk! My wife had to use the guide’s first aid kit and lower him using the belay, tying him to her with a rope. It's amazing that when we climbed to an altitude of 4800 - 4900 the previous day, this same person had no symptoms! Of course, I knew from books and textbooks that everyone has their own altitude threshold, and the reaction to height comes very sharply, but having seen this with my own eyes, I will never again recommend climbing Elbrus on your own and without a guide to those who who has no experience of climbing peaks above 5000 meters. Elbrus is a large and serious mountain. Even if you have some mountain climbing experience, but no experience of climbing at a similar height, take a guide for the first time. This will significantly reduce the risk and increase the likelihood of a successful climb.
• Even if you have your own mountain experience, you should not strive to go to the mountains on your own at any cost. Especially if this is your first ascent to this peak. An experienced local guide, who knows the route and all the features of the region, will allow you to relax not only your soul, but also your head, taking on all the worries about organizing the trip and the ascent itself. If you gather your group and chip in with the whole crowd, the “overpayment” will turn out to be quite small. And if you add to all this a higher probability of successful ascent (professional guides know the nuances and the mountain an infinite number of times better than you, especially if you are in this region for the first time), then the game is definitely worth the candle. In addition, communication with a guide is always an opportunity to improve your knowledge in the field of mountain climbing. Do what I did - gather your group and take a guide for your company. For example, Zhenya.
• The weather in the first half of May in the Caucasus has never been stable. But we're lucky! In 11 days, we experienced precipitation only twice: on the first day, during acclimatization to Cheget, and on the day of departure. The peak weather occurred exactly on the day of our ascent. Temperatures ranged from -10 to -18 with some wind. Already three days after our ascent, a cyclone arrived and winds reached 55-65 km/h, which, combined with a temperature of about -15, gave a perceived temperature below -30.
• Affordable prices, simple logistics, the availability of hotels, mountain shelters, cable cars, rescue services and the opportunity to climb with a guide and with your own company or as part of a commercial group allow any physically healthy person to get acquainted with large mountains and test their physical and altitude capabilities.
• The Elbrus region is the only option for a climber on a limited budget. Ruble prices for hotels, shelters, food and guides are humane, and when converted into euros (at the current exchange rate 60) there are no alternatives at all, taking into account the possibility of walking “from the hotel” around the highest mountains Europe.
• Coming to Elbrus in May on a ski tour is very good idea. There are places to walk and ride. I’m definitely putting it in my plan for the future. Why walk when you can walk and ride? =)
• I think that nowhere else will you ever be able to see and/or meet so many famous climbers as in May on Elbrus. Thanks to the organizers of the Red Fox Elbrus Race for such a fantastic opportunity!!
• In addition to the general Red Cross first aid course I took last fall, taking the mountain first aid course is a must. This is a must for any tourist!
• Despite the tasty and plentiful food, during the trip to Elbrus I still managed to lose as much as 4 kilograms. If before Elbrus I weighed 83.3 kg, then upon return I only weighed 79.4 kg. This is what is called the influence of altitude!
• The only downside of this trip, I would say, is the fact that on the May holidays there are as many people on Elbrus as on Tverskaya on a day off. On the day of our ascent alone, May 5, 2017, about 200 people went up the mountain, and all the shelters were packed to capacity. Immediately after May, there were tens of times fewer people on the Mountain. For those who want more privacy, I recommend the end of May - the first half of June.

EQUIPMENT

From the large list of equipment that was on Elbrus, I would like to specifically note:

• ORTLIEB Duffle RS trunk for 110 liters. Lightweight, huge and on wheels and with shoulder straps. Everything fits in! Comfortable to carry and ride. Happy! Just don't look how much it costs =)
• Light winter boots SALOMON Scrambler FG. I haven’t used them for a long time, but on this trip I decided to take them as an alternative to trekking boots for acclimatization trips. Lightweight, comfortable, do not get wet. I walked all the first days + tracking. I also wore them at the shelter. They are warm and your feet can rest in them. Super thing!
• SkiTrab super mittens. Super convenient to use the phone and do small jobs.
• Therm-ic dryer. Dry and warm (!!!) boots and socks (!!!). And it also eliminates odor!
• Warm self-release breeches HAGLOFS Barrier Knee. I came to the shelter, started to cool down, put on softshell trousers over it without taking off my boots, and it was warm!
• Double climbing boots LA SPORTIVA Spantik. Reliable. Warm. Like behind a stone wall.
• ODLO BlackComb Evolution Warm thermal T-shirt with a hood (and in fact with a built-in balaclava) - super comfortable!! Perfect!
• Earplugs. In a large group of people at a shelter, someone is bound to snore. This thing is very helpful!
• 10-slot socket. Everyone has a lot of gadgets, but in rooms and shelters there are usually few outlets, one or two. With such a thing, we could easily dry our shoes, charge our phones, walkie-talkies and batteries at the same time.

On the day of the climb I was wearing:

• La Sportiva double boots
• Petzl cats
• warm thermal long johns by Siver
• Devold wool trekking socks
• Arc"teryx storm membrane trousers
• synthetic mid-weight thermal T-shirt Odlo
• fleece Norrona
• Bergans membrane storm jacket
• puffer Klattermussen
• windstopper Haglofs gloves
• Dakine thin membrane mittens
• warm down mittens Mountain Equipment
• warm cap Bergans
• Mountain Equipment gaiters
• headlamp Black Diamond
• telescopic poles Black Diamond
• Stanley thermos
• Garmin GPS navigator
• Yaesu walkie talkies
• two ski masks (I didn’t even wear goggles)
• spare batteries for flashlights, navigators and walkie-talkies
• sun cream, frostbite cream and lip balm
• Salomon assault backpack
• snack and 0.5 l bottle of water
• documentation
• Sports Marathon flag
• Luckily, the Grivel ice ax, Singing Rock gazebo, lanyards and carabiners were not even used. The condition of the trail, according to the organizers of the Red Fox Elbrus Race competition, was the best in the last 4 years!!! We are very lucky =)

Everything was great, except for one thing. On the approach to the saddle, on the traverse of the “oblique shelf”, we walked slowly (with the whole group) and I froze. There was not enough underwear under the membrane pants in the form of thick Siver underpants. After warming up, I just put on a down jacket on the saddle and drank some tea.

Film by Zhenya Pismenny about Elbrus

• Be sure to train general physical training. Elbrus is demanding on your physical fitness.
• Get the best quality gear you can. The weather on Elbrus in May can be truly wintery. High-quality equipment significantly increases comfort and the likelihood of a successful climb. The most important: warm double boots, goggles and two pairs of ski masks, gloves and mittens.
• If possible, climb under the guidance of an experienced guide. This will greatly increase safety and likelihood of success.

USEFUL LINKS

• The story of my friend Timur Akhmetov about the same campaign - timurakhmetov.com/voshozhdenie-na-elbrus-v-mae.html.
• It will be useful for those who are going to the “May race”.
• Red Fox Elbrus Race through the eyes of a beginner. 30 minutes of positivity from

Day 1 - Arrival at "Climbing Elbrus from the South".

Arrival of the group in the city of Mineralnye Vody at the airport or Train Station(bus station) until 14:30. The best options for arriving in the region are by plane or train to the city of Mineralnye Vody.

Meeting the group at Mineralnye Vody airport.

Transfer to the village of Terskol (2000 meters above sea level) of the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic. Travel to Terskol for 3.5-4 hours (from the city of Mineralnye Vody to Terskol about 190 km) along the mountain road to Elbrus.

Accommodation in the village of Terskol in two-three-four-bed standard rooms with amenities in the hotel "Salam", "Snow Leopard", "Smile Hotel", in the hotel "Peak of Europe" in the village of Elbrus or another equivalent in level.

(Single accommodation in a hotel of any level can be arranged for those wishing to book in advance).

Introducing the guide to the group. Welcome dinner. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2 - Acclimatization trek to Mount Cheget up to an altitude of 3000 meters.

Breakfast. Today, acclimatization trek on foot to the slopes of Mount Cheget-Tau-Chan (in common parlance - Cheget) up to a height of 3000 meters or to the slopes of Terskol peak through the "Maiden Braids" waterfall to the observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences (at the discretion of the guide).

From the slopes of Mount Cheget in good weather there is a beautiful view of Elbrus, Donguz-Orun, Nakru and other beautiful peaks of the region. On Cheget it is recommended not to use the cable car, as the best results are achieved when ascending on foot.

Light lunch with hot tea. (At the first station of the Cheget cable car, you can go to the famous cafe “Ai” (translated as “Moon”) and taste hot pies with meat or blueberries).

Descent and return to the village of Terskol. After rest - preparation for the ascent to the high mountain zone: inspection, selection and rental of personal climbing equipment.

Overnight at the hotel.

Day 3 - Ascent to the mountain shelter “Gara-Bashi” (“Barrels”) to an altitude of 3800 meters. Acclimatization trek to "Shelter-11" (4200 meters) and higher to the rocks of the ridge to an altitude of 4300-4400 meters.

Breakfast. Transfer village Terskol - "Azau" - the lower station of the Elbrus pendulum cableway (2500 meters above sea level).

The ascent on the Elbrus pendulum cableway to the “Gara-Bashi” (“Barrels”) shelter is 3800 meters. The cable car has two stages: (first stage Azau, 2500 meters - Krugozor, 3000 meters and second stage Krugozor, 3000 meters - Mir, 3500 meters).

There is a chairlift from the top station “Mir” (3500 meters) to the shelter “Gara-Bashi” (“Barrels”), which, unfortunately, does not always work. In this regard, a backup option for climbing: we climb on foot.

Placement on high mountain shelter“Gara-Bashi” (“Barrels”) or in one of the other mountain shelters of equivalent level: “Shelter-11” (“Diesel Hut”), “Maria”, etc.

Light lunch with hot tea.

Instruction on safety measures when staying in the highlands, rules of behavior in the mountains.

Acclimatization trek to “Shelter-11” to an altitude of 4200 meters and higher to the rocks of the ridge to an altitude of 4300-4400 meters.

Return to the “Gara-Bashi” shelter. Rest. Fitting equipment with a guide (harnesses, crampons, etc.).

Dinner. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 4 - Acclimatization trek to the Pastukhov rocks (4600 - 4800 meters) and higher up to 5000 meters.

Breakfast. Today we have an acclimatization hike to the Pastukhov rocks (4600 - 4800 meters). If the weather and the well-being of the participants allows, it is recommended to climb as high as possible - approximately up to 5000 meters. The decision on the altitude to climb for acclimatization is made by your mountain guide.

If necessary, railings (fixed ropes to ensure safety during ascent and descent) are hung above the Pastukhov rocks.

Classes on techniques for moving on snow and ice: walking in crampons with an ice ax. Practicing self-arrest techniques in the snow.

Sightseeing tour of the area.

During acclimatization trips, we refresh our strength with a light lunch (lunch bags with sandwiches, cookies, etc.) and hot tea from thermoses.

Descent and return to the shelter. Dinner. Overnight at our shelter.

Day 5 - Day of rest.

Breakfast. Today is a day of rest and a day of preparation for climbing Elbrus. Also, this day can already be used to climb to the top if the group is feeling well and has sufficient acclimatization.

If this day is used for additional acclimatization and rest, the recommendation is: go down from the shelter to one of the cable car stations “Mir” (3500 meters) or “Krugozor” (3000 meters) or “Azau” (2500 meters), take a 2-3 walk an hour below and climb back up to the shelter.

Those interested can go skiing or snowboarding.

Preparing for the climb to Elbrus. In the evening, we recommend packing your backpack and adjusting your equipment.

Dinner. Early lights out. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 6 - Climbing Elbrus (5642 meters).

Early rise at 2.00 am. Today is the day of climbing to the top of Elbrus. Departure for the ascent to the Elbrus peak at 3.00 (weather, visibility and route condition permitting). In the morning, we fill the thermos with hot tea, take with us a “pocket snack” and a lunch bag.

Those who wish can use a snowcat climb to a height of 4600 meters (Pastukhov Rocks) to save effort and time (3-4 hours of time are saved on the climb). Choosing a peak (East or West) the day before - depending on the condition of the group, weather, route. The decision is made by the guide in agreement with the group. The decision is binding on all group members.

The path to the top of Elbrus under favorable conditions takes 8-10 hours. If necessary, we use the previously installed railings. The deadline for reaching the summit is 13 hours. After this period, the entire group must go down. The descent takes 5-6 hours.

Dinner. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 7 - Descent to the village of Terskol or reserve day for ascent.

In case of bad weather on the previous day, we can use this day as a reserve day for climbing the Elbrus peak. In case of ascent on the previous day, we descend to the village of Terskol for rest.

Breakfast. Descent on the Elbrus pendulum cableway to the Azau station. Transfer station "Azau" - Terskol village. Accommodation at a hotel in the village of Terskol. Rest. For those interested, after descent you can order a sauna.

Festive dinner in a cafe with national cuisine. Presentation of certificates for climbing Elbrus.

Overnight at the hotel.

Day 8 - Departure home.

Breakfast. Transfer Terskol village - Mineralnye Vody at 9 am. Departure home.

Tour cost: 38,500 rubles.

The tour price includes:

• Group meeting in the city of Mineralnye Vody;
• Group transfer Mineralnye Vody Airport - hotel to Terskol village and back. You can use the transfer if you arrive at Mineralnye Vody Airport no later than 14:30;
• Transfer from Terskol village to Azau station and back;
• Accompanying the group with a mountain guide throughout the entire program (one attempt to climb) - 1 guide for 4 people, 2 guides for 5-8 people, 3 guides for 8-12 people;
• Accommodation in a hotel for 2, 3, 4 rooms local numbers in the village of Terskol or the village of Elbrus - 3 days;
• Breakfast at the hotel in the village of Terskol - 3 breakfasts;
• Accommodation in the high-mountain shelter "Gara-Bashi" ("Barrels") or an equivalent level of service - 4 days;
• Food products when staying at the Gara-Bashi mountain shelter for cooking;
• Chef services, preparation of 3 meals a day by the cook while staying at the shelter;
• Ensuring security (registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, communication along the route, GPS navigator, pharmacy);
• Payment for ascent and descent on the Elbrus cable car;
• Group special equipment to ensure safety on the route (ropes, ice screws, carabiners for organizing handrails, etc.) and kitchen equipment (gas burners and cylinders, kitchen utensils, etc.);
• Certificate of climbing Elbrus for each participant;

During the May holidays of 2009, the idea was to climb Elbrus from the north. On this side there are no cable cars, crowds of people, garbage and all that, unlike the popular, easily accessible southern slope from Azau.

Of course, there are also a lot of people coming from the north, but these are people who came for Elbrus, not to sit in a cafe, and there is no garbage here, the nature is almost wild, the road here is long.

01. We are driving a UAZ “loaf” from Kislovodsk. The Goal has been revealed!

02. Closer and closer:

03. This is the road it was in 2009. Now asphalt has been made up to the Djilysu tract

05. First overnight stay. There was a little snow overnight, but the weather was great in the morning!

06. Elbrus seems close, but this is deceptive. Only in height to the top there are still more than 2 kilometers:

07. The height of Elbrus is over 5600 m. You cannot go straight away, the body must acclimatize, gradually getting used to the altitude, i.e. less oxygen in the air. To do this, first we bring some of our things, climbing equipment, to

Oleinikov’s hut (3900 m), we sit there for a while and back to Djilysa at 2500 m. View on the way to the hut of the mountains of the northern Elbrus region:

08. Then, having already assembled the camp, we climbed up to the hut again, got in touch and went down to the beginning of the Lenz rocks at 4800 m. The weather is unstable:

09. Or even stormy

10. Having waited for the window, we set up an “emergency tent” on the Lenz rocks - in case, during the upcoming ascent above, we were caught by the Real Elbrus Bad Weather, in which we might not reach Oleinikov’s hut alive. B good

Gas burners with cylinders, some food were left in the fortified tent, rugs were laid out and some additional clothing was left. While we were setting up the tent, the weather suddenly improved. Even Stas is without gloves and a hat, and this is in May

at 4800 meters altitude!

11. We returned to hut 3900. In the evening we admired the beautiful sunset:

12. And at night - the mystical view of the moon over the huge Elbrus:

13. Morning of the day of ascent. The distant plain is covered by a cloud layer:

14. The sun has risen!

15.

16. Only the middle of the path, and already all the visible peaks of the Caucasus are below us:

17. We approach the Lenz rocks. There are not very good clouds in the sky - harbingers of worsening weather:

18. Cloud that looks like a huge bird:

19. Powerful icefalls north of the Elbrus saddle. These “cubes” are 30 meters across:

20. Forward to the top!

21. The “bad” cloud over Elbrus has increased - which means the weather may worsen. But for now we continue to climb:

22. View from the middle of the Lenz cliffs, from about 5000 meters in height:

23.

24. The top of Elbrus was covered with a “cap” of a cloudy hurricane, I don’t know how to describe it more accurately. In general, there is nothing to do there, we hurry back, because... such a cap usually increases after its appearance and spreads down the

the slope of Elbrus. 300 m of height was not enough to reach the top...

25. We didn’t have time to escape from the “hat”. Like this inside:

And this is just the beginning. With the help of GPS, in a complete snowstorm, we returned to Oleinikov’s hut.

26. And the next morning the weather is good:

27. We descended from winter into spring, to the Dzhilysu tract. Crocuses are blooming.

28. But above Elbrus, not so much:

29. Sandstone “fingers” in the Dzhilysu tract:

But the main attraction there, of course, is the warm Narzan springs (in fact, “jili suu” is translated as “warm water”).
A powerful stream of warm, highly carbonated narzan flows straight from the rock ( mineral water) temperature +23 degrees.
Here is one of the “bathtubs” posted by people:

In the photo, the water is drained, but if you insert a plug into the pipe near the bottom, the bathtub will fill and you can swim. This is extremely beneficial for health.

30. In the remaining time we went to the Nartjol pass in the Tashlysyrt ridge. Along the way, we noticed funny icicles formed by a frozen spring:

31. And here is a whole frozen stream on the slope:

32. View from the Nartjol pass to the north. Somewhere there is Mount Bermamyt, and in the clouds is Kislovodsk:

33.

34. We walked along the ridge to an area of ​​rather bright red scree:

35. Panorama from the Tashlysyrt ridge to the northern foothills of Elbrus:

36. We return along the Kyzylkola valley (upper reaches of Malka):

38. Elbrus from the Dzhilysu tract:

39. We return to the place where the car will pick us up back to Kislovodsk. And on Elbrus the weather has improved. That's how unlucky it was to climb to its peak that time - bad weather occurred precisely at the time of the ascent. But the main thing is that everyone is alive and

healthy, having retreated in time.