Cave city Tepe Kermen how to get there. Tepe-kermen - mountain and cave city. Tepe-Kermen - "Church with a baptistery"

Updated 02/04/2019

Cave City Tepe-Kerman in Crimea is one of the most popular attractions of the peninsula. People come here not only from nearby resorts, but also from far away.

History of the hill fort

The cave city of Tepe-Kermen is one of the most famous attractions of Crimea. It is located between the villages of Kudrino and Mashino, at a distance of 7 kilometers from Bakhchisarai - in the valley of the Kacha River. The ancient settlement is located on Mount Tepe-Kermen, which rises 300 meters above the river valley. The shape of the mountain is very similar to the Mayan pyramids (photos for the article taken from commons.wikimedia.org).

The cave city, which was once a large and developed settlement of Taurida, is shrouded in secrets and legends. He is one of the main Crimean mystery attractions. Not far from this settlement there are other cave cities of Bakhchisarai. Nowhere else on the Crimean peninsula are there such a number of ancient historical and archaeological monuments. Every year the ruins of Tepe-Kermen and other Bakhchisarai settlements are visited by thousands of tourists.

“Tepe-Kermen” translated into Russian means “Fortress on a Hill.” Its history dates back to the end of the 5th – beginning of the 6th centuries. ad. It was during this period that cave settlements began to appear en masse on the Crimean peninsula, in which one could hide from the raids of nomadic tribes. Some historians are inclined to think that Crimean cave cities were founded during the reign of Justinian the First, the emperor of Byzantium, who decided in this way to further secure the approaches to Chersonesos.

The heyday of the fortress city was in the 12th – 13th centuries. At that time it was actively built up. Many residential and commercial buildings appeared in Tepe-Kermen, and defensive fortifications were strengthened. The foundations of many non-cave structures have survived to this day. Until the end of the 13th century, the fortress on the hill was one of the prosperous cave settlements of Medieval Taurida.

But 1299 became a turning point in the history of the city. Most historians and archaeologists are convinced that Tepe-Kerman ceased to exist as a result of the invasion of Tatar hordes led by Khan Nogai. The Tatars simply destroyed the entire population after capturing the city, and there was no one to restore it.

Tepe-Kerman today

The historical and archaeological complex “Fortress on the Hill” occupies an area of ​​more than a hectare. Natural and man-made caves are located in six tiers - at a height of 1 to 5 meters. They have different shapes - square, rectangular, oval and round. Several centuries ago, the caves housed dwellings, temples, craft workshops, utility and storage facilities. The largest caves consist of several "rooms". Wander around the area ancient city it can take a very long time.

All excursionists should definitely visit the cave temple built in the 11th century, located in the western region of the settlement - on the top of the hill. This iconic landmark is unique - there is nothing like it among the sacred monuments of Crimea, carved into the rocks. The temple with the baptistery is interesting primarily for its architectonics, which is uncharacteristic of the 11th century. Its altar is shifted inward, and the nave is located across. This is not the only one, but the most famous church Tepe-Kerman.

All excursions traditionally end with a climb to the top of the Fortress on the hill, where you can see a huge stone, standing alone on the edge of a steep cliff. This monolithic block was once part of a large building. One of the legends of the cave city says that it was in this stone that the soul of the last mayor, who did not want to leave Tepe-Kermen, moved.

After a walk through the numerous caves of this landmark of Bakhchisarai, there is a feeling of belonging to the centuries-old history of the settlement, created by our distant ancestors who lived, worked, fought with enemies and died on this land. Opens from the mountain top stunning panoramic view to valleys and other mountains, the slopes of which are covered with green forests.

Useful information for visiting

Tepe Kerman on the map

How to get to the cave city

The easiest way to get to the cave city of Tepe-Kermen is by car - your own, if you came to Crimea by car, or rented. Road from Bakhchisarai will take about 20 minutes. Route from Bakhchisarai and any other settlement The peninsulas can be traced directly on the map above. For example, from Yalta, where I advise you to conquer, it takes about an hour by car.

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The ancient settlement of Tepe-Kermen (Fortress on the Mountain) is located in the valley of the Kachi River, 7 km southeast of Bakhchisaray. The settlement is located on a separate outcropping with an area of ​​1 hectare, at an altitude of 544 m above sea level. Above the Kachin Valley the plateau rises 225 m, with marl screes running down into it, and the height of the vertical cliffs is 10-12 m. The ascent to the plateau is only from the north-eastern side.

How to get there

The ancient settlement of Tepe-Kermen belongs to the Kachin group of “cave cities”. Tepe-Kermen is located in the Kachin Valley, about 5 km from Bakhchisaray.

From Simferopol

If you start your trip in Simferopol, then you first need to get to Bakhchisarai by bus or by train Simferopol-Sevastopol.

From Sevastopol

If you start your trip in Sevastopol, then you also need to first get to Bakhchisarai by bus or by train Sevastopol-Simferopol.

Next you need to get to shuttle bus from the railway station to the final stop "Staroselye". And you need to get to Chufut-Kale on foot (see How to get to Chufut-Kale). Next, you need to go to the eastern outskirts of the Chufut-Kale settlement, through the Biyuk-Kapu gate (Eastern Gate). Beyond this gate you will immediately see a dirt road heading east. It is necessary to follow it. After traveling less than 1.5 km from the dirt road, a path will branch off to the left (in front of this path you should see a sign in the form of stones laid out in the shape of an arrow and the word TEPE-KERMEN). You should continue your journey along this path. It descends from the Chufut-Kale plateau into a gully. After walking about 1 km along a forest ravine along the Chufut-Kale plateau, you will find yourself in a pine forest. A little to the left is the equipped tourist parking lot "Sarabey". Here, if desired, you can spend the night.

Immediately behind the parking lot rises the Tepe-Kermen plateau in the form of a truncated cone. You are standing on the northeast side of the palto.

Coming out of the pine forest, you will see a path to the plateau. It is quite steep and, having overcome the last extreme sections, you find yourself in front of the eastern caves. Next you need to move to the right and up. The path will lead to the remains of a staircase carved into the rock with very clear steps. You need to climb up them to the plateau.

There is also another option:

From the bus station in Bakhchisarai you need to take regular bus Bakhchisaray-Sinapnoye. The road passes through the picturesque Kachin Valley. First, behind the village of Preduschelnoye, you will pass the site of an ancient man - the Kachinsky canopy, then the Tash-Air canopy, famous for its rock paintings. This will be followed by the Kachi-Kalyon limestone massif in the form of the bow of a giant ship, heading downstream of the Kachi River. On its side, like portholes, gape rows of caves carved by human hands. On the bow of the “ship” a huge cross formed as a result of natural phenomena is clearly visible. Passing the Kachi-Kalyon monastery, a mountain range appears before your eyes, like a huge impregnable wall. This is Mount Kyz-Kermen (Maiden Fortress). The settlement of the same name is located on the Kyz-Kermen plateau. Immediately behind Kyz-Kermen you will see a remnant mountain in the form of a truncated cone - this is the goal of our journey - Tepe-Kermen. You need to get off at the Kudrino stop. After passing the field, you will find yourself in a pine forest, where the t/s "Sarabey" is located. Further behind a small clearing there is a path to the plateau. It is necessary to climb along it.

Site plan. Attractions

Tepe-Kermen - churches of the ancient settlement

A special feature of Tepe-kermen is the largest concentration of caves compared to other cave cities. There are more than 250 of them on an area of ​​about 1 hectare.

The overwhelming number of in-rock structures here (about 85%) were used for economic needs. Of these, about 88%, or 170-180 premises, were barns for animals. The rest of the utility rooms consisted of estate basements and water storage tanks. Non-economic caves were used for housing and burial.

Among the Tepe-kermen caves, two churches are of particular interest. One, a “church with a sacristy” (these names of cave churches were introduced into scientific circulation by N. Borovko (1913), is located in the northwestern cliff of the settlement. You can get into it without climbing the plateau. The second, a “church with a baptistery,” is located on the very plateau, on its northeastern edge.

The close proximity of Tepe-kermen to Bakhchisarai and the abundance artificial caves already from the beginning of the 19th century. made it one of the most popular places to visit. Let's note the most interesting messages about the churches of the settlement found in the literature.

P. Sumarokov at the beginning of the 19th century. compiled the first small description of the “church with a baptistery” and published its visual plan.

Brief information about the church is found in the “Crimean Collection” by P. Keppen. The scientist’s remark is interesting: “What kind of work was it worth to destroy this house of God? What patience should have been possessed by those who, leaving this monument behind, were plunged into the darkness of oblivion.”

He left us a description and drawings of the church of Dubois de Montpere. V. Kondaraki mentions it.

Detailed information and drawings of the church were published by G. Karaulov. The author dated it to the first centuries of Christianity. In Karaulov’s review, the following points are noteworthy: a) he saw the fragments of collapsed columns from the altar; b) found no traces of wall painting. The description and plans of the church can also be found in the works of D. Strukov, A. Popov, E. Markov.

In 1890 a resident of Bakhchisarai, I. Puzatov, cleared the temple of debris, made windows and doors in it, invited a priest and served a prayer service. He noticed an inscription covered with lime on the wall opposite the entrance, copied it and handed it over to the Odessa Society for the History of Antiquities. V. Latyshev published the following translation: “This grave was dug up at my own request by Polit...om. The extension (made) by the servant of God, the most pious Manuel...”. It was not possible to completely restore the text; no exact copy was made, so the scientist did not consider it possible to date it.

V. Yurgevich and A. Popandopulo-Keramevs, based on the same copy, according to paleographic data, nevertheless tried to establish the chronology of the inscription, but their opinions differed: the first considered it to be later, and the second considered it possible to attribute it to the 9th-10th centuries.

The first detailed and Full description all the cave churches of the settlement were completed by N. Borovko in the article “Tepe-kermen” (1913). He collected all the information he knew, made precise measurements, and copied the Greek inscription in the apse of the “church with a sacristy.”

In 1927, a brief overview of the cave churches of Tepe-kermen was compiled by I. Nikolsky. Referring to the “church with the baptistery,” he reported: “To the right of the altar, under the mortar, one can discern the outlines of Christ carved directly on the wall.” This seems strange, since neither the earlier nor the later works mention this. Most likely, the “image of Christ” is nothing more than a figment of N. Nikolsky’s imagination. Detailed information about the monuments in question can be found in the unpublished “Archaeological Map...” by N. Repnikov.

Referring to the aforementioned dating of the inscription proposed by Popandopoulo-Keramevs, he noted: “Such an early dating, based on the general character of the cave temple, seems incredible to us.”

In 1940 The churches of Tepe-kermen were examined by P. Babenchikov. The following conclusion seems interesting: "... In the old days, all East End The caves (the church with the baptistery - Yu.M.) were isolated from the temple right up to the altar, which fits with analogies in other cave temples... A further conclusion from this premise would be to assume that the orientation of the altar should not be considered to the north, as was done still, but to the east. The latter assumption, among other data, is supported by the fact that of the two entrances to the altar, the western one has a width of 0.68 m, and the southern one (considered until now the royal gates) is only 0.5 m. I think that the researchers were led into the misconception is accidental: the good preservation of the altar barrier with crosses in the southern wall of the altar and its complete destruction in the western. My assumption is also supported by the existence of a large and regularly rectangular cut-out in the eastern wall, which is considered a “seat,” but which should be considered a subsequently converted throne.”

An interesting observation by P. Babenchikov regarding the analogy with the “temple with a baptismal chapel” in Inkerman: with all the architectural differences between these churches, the researcher drew attention to an important similarity - the location of baptisteries in the churches, which in ancient times were separated from the churches by a partition, and baptismal chapels with a step.

A. Jacobson devoted relatively much space to the “church with a baptistery” in his works, dating it to the 8th-9th centuries, practically without giving any arguments, with the exception of the transverse location of the nave. In addition to the above works, the cave churches of Tepe-kermen were repeatedly mentioned in the literature, but mostly they repeated the already known conclusions of N. Borovko and A. Yakobson.

To summarize, it can be noted that the underground temples of Tepe-kermen, despite their fame and popularity, have been poorly studied. With the exception of descriptions, no architectural analysis was made, and no serious arguments were given in favor of one or another dating.

Probably originally in the 11th-12th centuries. The “church with the baptistery”, located on the plateau, inside the fortress walls, was cut down, and the rest appeared later, as the settlement grew.

Obviously, after the end of life on Tepe-kermen at the end of the 13th-14th centuries. The cave churches continue to be used to some extent by residents of neighboring valleys and individual hermits. This is supported by the tombstone inscription of monk Nicholas, found here and dated by V. Latyshev in the 16th century. However, to talk about the full-blooded life of these churches in given time does not seem possible.

Yu.M.Mogarichev

Tepe-Kermen - "Church with sacristy"

The “Church with the Sacristy” has dimensions of 4.9 x 2.2 x 2.1 m. In plan, it is a simple single-apse church. The apse is horseshoe-shaped, 1.85 x 1 x 2 m, in the upper part it is separated from the pump by a girth arch. Below you can see undercuts for the installation of the altar barrier and, probably, a later iconostasis. There is a square cut in the floor for the base of the throne. Niches were carved into the northern and southern walls of the apse - possibly an altar and a deacon. A four-line Greek inscription is carved into the apse conch.

The naos is rectangular, along the western and southern walls, at a height of 0.43 m, there is a bench. In the southern wall (western half) there is a grave 2.75 x 0.8 x 0.72 m. Above it, at a height of 1.5 m, there is an arched niche measuring 0.37 x 0.35 x 0.2 m. In the eastern part of the southern wall, a passage was cut into the sacristy, rounded in plan, measuring 2.1 x 2.3 x 1.7 m.

In the northern wall to the west of the entrance, at a height of 0.85 m, there is an arched niche (0.17 x 0.3 x 0.2 m). To the east of the entrance is another one, measuring 0.24 x 0.53 x 0.5 m, built at a height of 0.9 m. Next to it, two concentric circles are carved, inside of which four knitting needles are depicted in a cross shape. In the lower half of the circle four letters of the Hebrew alphabet are visible (preserved), which A. Gidalevich interpreted as the surname “Bakshi”.

Two graves with shoulders were cut into the floor of the church, measuring 2 x 0.57 x 0.5 m for the north and 2.1 x 0.8 x 0.5 m for the south.

Room treatment - smoothed T.2. The entrance to the church is rectangular (1.36 x 1.58 m). On its sides there are visible hems for fastening the doors.

In the architectural plan of a “church with a sacristy” it is difficult to find direct analogies among cave temples. The presence of recesses in the western part of the apse (northern and southern walls) brings it closer to the temple of the Southern Mangup Monastery and the main church of Shuldan, the sacristy - to the small temple in the area of ​​​​the Eski-kermen lift road. In terms of interior design, the “church with a sacristy” looks newer compared to the “church with a baptistery.”

It is quite possible that it appeared at the last stage of Tepe-kermen’s life as a roadside church located at the entrance to the site. Let us note that it was under it that the road leading to the Tepe-kermen plateau passed.

Yu.M.Mogarichev

Tepe-Kermen - "Church with a baptistery"

"Church with a baptistery" (N 1). The plan is trapezoidal in shape, dimensions 10.5 x 4.5 x 2.6 m, the ceiling is slightly sloping towards the western wall. Functionally, the room is divided into two parts - the church itself and the baptismal sanctuary.

The temple, measuring 6.4 x 4.5 m, is located in the western part. Its altar, brought inside the room, occupies the north-eastern corner and is a square room 2.7 x 2.7 m fenced off with an altar barrier carved into the rock. It is raised 0.3 m above the pump. There are two entrances to it - the royal ones the gate (south) is 0.5 m wide and the side (west) is 0.7 m.

The slabs of the altar barrier from the side of the royal doors are 0.25 m thick, the height of the royal doors.

Rectangular naos. A bench 0.25 m wide and 0.35 m high was cut along the western, southern and partially northern walls. In the western wall there was a tomb 2 x 0.65 m, and two more, 1.75 x 0.65 m (eastern) and 1.9 x 0.75 (west), cut into the bench of the south wall. Above the western grave of the southern wall the mentioned eight-line inscription is scratched. Another grave is cut into the floor south of the altar. The entrance to the church, 0.8 m wide, led from the north and was located in the northwestern corner.

The baptismal chapel, measuring 4 x 4.2 m, rectangular in shape, is located in the eastern part of the room and rises 0.15 m above the pump. The cruciform font (1.25 x 0.9 x 0.8 m) is carved in the south-east half. It rises 0.35 m above the floor. There is a descent into the font of two steps, the first is 0.3 m deep, the second is 0.2 m. To the west of the font, a grave is carved into the floor, and another one is in the north-western corner , next to the wall of the altar. Along the southern wall there is a bench, above which there is a niche-tomb in the wall. Next to the baptistery in the wall there is a quadrangular recess 1.2 x 1 x 0.55 m. On the sides of the baptistery there are two niches 0.25 x 0.3 m, above one there is a carved monogram. A partially destroyed entrance 1 m wide led into the room from the north. To the south of it, another niche 1.4 x 0.9 m was built in the western wall.

To the north of the church, on the edge of the plateau, 9 tombs and 5 tombs were carved into the rock. There were probably more graves, but the area in front of the church entrance is partially covered with earth.

The "Church with the Baptistry" is a unique monument. Firstly, it has a transverse arrangement of the nave, secondly, an altar placed inside, thirdly, a baptistery, and, finally, fourthly, churches with such architectural solution among the rocky religious buildings of Crimea are no longer known.

The closest analogy to this monument is the Judgment complex (before expansion). Similar features appear: an altar brought inside, the presence of a high place, the location of the altar in the right corner farthest from the entrance. a baptismal chamber separated from the rest of the room by the wall of the altar barrier. The latter explains the architectural design of the altar.

The Tepe-Kermen church also has something in common with the “temple with baptism” in Inkerman, namely: the presence of baptisteries with steps.

Dating. There are no direct chronological signs that allow us to unambiguously date the church. The inscription above the grave on the south wall also does not contain a date.

Dating of A. Jacobson VIII-IX centuries. on the basis of the transverse position of the nave does not stand up to criticism. As noted, on Eski-Kermen, temples with such an architectural design date back no earlier than the end of the 10th century; similar structures among the cave churches of Cappadocia existed in the 10th-11th centuries. It would seem that the dating element could be the shapes of the crosses on the altar barrier, which look archaic; there are analogies for them on the early medieval altar barriers of Kherson. However, the same crosses are on the sarcophagus of the 11th century, on the ciborium depicted in the miniatures of the codex of conversations of the monk Jacob of the 11th century. and other later monuments.

Decor similar to the ornament on the capitals of the “church with baptistery” is found on the capitals of the Church of Halas Monastery in Cappadocia, which dates back to the 11th century.

Therefore, the entire complex of architectural features of the church allows us to date it no earlier than the 11th century.

An analysis of the archaeological situation at Tepe-kermen may be important in dating this monument. This is one of the most poorly studied "cave cities". Archaeological research here was carried out only by D. Talis in 1969-1972, who found out that the settlement existed from the 6th to the end of the 13th-14th centuries. However, "all cultural layer in the studied areas it is divided into two chronologically different layers dating back to the time after the 10th century, and dense buildings appear only in the 12th-13th centuries.

This archaeological situation is a reflection of the historical processes that took place in the medieval mountainous Taurica.

Tepe-kermen appears, obviously, at the end of the 6th-7th centuries. like a fortress built on the border of the Byzantine possessions in Taurica. Probably, the construction of defensive walls took place at the same chronological stage with the construction of defenses at Eski-Kermen, Mangup and Chufut-Kale. Obviously, in the early Middle Ages, people lived on Tepe-kermen mainly during the enemy’s penetration into the mountainous South-Western Crimea. Period VIII-IX centuries. was not reflected in the archaeological material of the settlement. It is known that at this time life was concentrated in rural settlements located in the valleys. In the 10th century these settlements are dying.

From the 11th century the situation is changing. The weakening and death of the Khazar Kaganate, the entry of Taurica again into the sphere of influence of Byzantium, the development of feudalization processes lead to the formation of urban centers. Probably one of them was Tepe-kermen.

One must think that it was from the 11th century. Cave churches begin to be built in the settlement. In addition to them, one above-ground temple is known here - a single-nave chapel with a semicircular apse, dimensions 5.5 x 2.2 m, dated by D. Talis from the 11th to the 13th centuries. Based on the massiveness of the walls, the scientist considered it part of some large complex, maybe a large estate.

There is no doubt that the construction of a “church with a baptistery,” currently the largest religious building known here, was associated with the beginning of the development of the settlement, since only this can explain the presence of a baptistery and the abundance of funeral structures in the church and its surroundings. The latter also indicates the relatively long functioning of the temple.

Perhaps it was the “church with the baptistery” that was the main religious building of Tepe-kermen.

So all the arguments are architectural features, analysis of the archaeological situation - allow us to attribute the appearance of the church to the 11th-12th centuries.

Yu.M.Mogarichev

Tepe Kerman - other churches

"Church with sacristy", "church with baptistery" - the most famous rock places of worship settlements. However, in our opinion, there could have been other in-rock temples at the site. In historiography, attempts have been made to highlight them.

One church on the southwestern cliff was found by N. Borovko, however, in the course of reflection, he abandoned this idea. Some cave churches are mentioned in the guide to Crimea by M. Sosnogorova.

In our opinion, the complex located to the east of the “church with the sacristy” is a cult complex. Currently, these premises are almost or completely destroyed; in particular, only the southern and western walls have been preserved. In the south wall are two rectangular niches, one of which shows traces of a poorly preserved Greek inscription. There are four graves carved into the floor. In the south wall there is an entrance to a small room, possibly a sacristy, with the treatment T.2.

It is quite possible that this church was the predecessor of the “church with a sacristy”, and for some time it could have formed a cult-funeral complex with it at the entrance to the Tepe-kermen plateau.

Yu.M.Mogarichev

Neighborhood

In the village of Kudrino there is an architectural monument - the remains of the Archangel Church, 1328.

The cave fortress in the vicinity of Bakhchisarai is a monument medieval architecture and urban planning.

Geographic coordinates of Tepe-Kermen on the map of Crimea GPS N 44.715895 E 33.931037

Today Tepe-Kerman is open like a museum underneath open air. Visiting in summer is paid. Ticket price for adults is 100 rubles, for children - 50 rubles. There is no telephone number for inquiries in Tepe-Kermen. Consultation can only be obtained at the entrance from the forester. During the off-season, admission is free.

How to get to the cave city of Tepe-Kermen

Getting to Tepe Kermen You can from Bakhchisarai: go to the street. Stroitelnaya, along it you move towards the exit from Bakhchisarai, to the village of Predushchelnoye, then Bashtanovka, Mashino and the final point - Kudrino. In the village of Kudrino you are looking for a tourist stop. It won't be difficult to find it along the highway. The distance from Bakhchisaray to Tepe-Kermen is 10.7 km. If you want to get there without your own transport, then a minibus runs from the city center to Kudrino and you can also get there by taxi.

From the tourist parking lot the ascent along the trail to Tepe-Kermen begins. The rise time is on average 30-40 minutes. The trail is marked and it is practically impossible to stray from it. Also, from the tourist parking lot you will be offered to climb to Tepe-Kermen by SUV. Price from 500 to 1000 rubles. depending on the time of year and vehicle load.
The second option to get to Tepe-Kermen is from Bakhchisarai on foot. From Bakhchisarai you head towards the Assumption Monastery, then go up to the Chufut-Kale fortress, cross Chufut-Kale all the way through, exit through the Eastern Gate, follow the path for about 4.5 km. and you also find yourself at a tourist parking lot and a checkpoint (a forester’s booth who collects money for entry).

History of Tepe-Kerman

History of Tepe-Kerman originates from the split of the Roman Empire, from the emergence of Byzantium. Northern border Byzantium passed in part Crimean peninsula, from the South of Crimea to the territory of the future Bakhchisarai. In the 4th-5th centuries, it was on these borders that the first guard posts began to appear, which in the 5th-6th centuries would become fortified cities: Chufut-Kale, Tepe-Kermen and Eski-Kermen.
Since the Tepe-Kermen fortress served as a guard post on the border of Byzantium, the city was formed as a fortress according to all the rules of that time. The city was located in a remote place, in our case on the mountain of the same name Tepe-Kermen. The height is 246 m or 540 above sea level. Also, not only the height of the mountain but also its inaccessibility played an important role.

It has a rather steep slope on three sides, which is not easy to climb. It is quite difficult to carry out military maneuvers or a siege. It is for these reasons that a small outpost becomes a fortress by the 6th century, and later, from the 11th to the 13th centuries, it turns into Big city, by the standards of that time.

Cave city Tepe-Kermen located on the plateau of the mountain of the same name. The area of ​​the plateau is 1.1 hectares. The city is built in several tiers. At the very foot of the mountain begin small caves that used to wooden structures connected to the middle of the mountain. In the middle part of the mountain, all the caves were adapted for the defense of the city. They housed archers and other city defenders. The lower part served mainly. for a subsidiary farm - premises for livestock and for stocking feed. But the upper plateau was intended for living quarters, small cells for monks and directly for temples. So, for example, in the North-East of the plateau there is the largest Christian temple of the 7-9 centuries AD. According to archaeologists, the temple was founded by fugitive preachers from the Roman Empire during the time of iconoclasm in Rome. Unfortunately, more accurate information about the temple has not been preserved, as well as the name of this city.

The name Tepe-Kermen appeared in the 16th century and is translated from Turkic as Fortress on the Top, but historians do not yet know what this place was called during Byzantine times.
On the territory of Tepe-Kermen, according to today, there are about 246 buildings. But this figure is very figurative, due to the fact that this area, although known since ancient times, is still little studied. The approximate date of the disappearance of the city is known - 1299, during the raid of the Golden Horde. But this has not been confirmed historical facts and has no historical basis.
So, for example, the German archaeologist Johann Erich Thunmann writes that at the turn of the 16th century life in Tepe-Kermen was practically. quieted down. That is, it turns out that 300 years of the city’s history are simply not known.

Excursions to Tepe-Kermen.

When thinking about whether it is worth visiting Tepe-Kermen with a guide or on your own, you can answer this way: it depends on what you expect from a trip to the fortress. If you want to take good pictures and walk around, then most likely you shouldn’t take a tour. You won’t lose your way off the trail; all attractions are signed and have a short history on billboards near significant places, and most importantly, your costs will be at least 100 rubles. for entry. If you want -1000 rub. for the ascent in an SUV. But you will not be limited by time for photos and a walk.

But if you decide to choose the option with a guide, you will get a fairly high-quality excursion into history, starting from Byzantium to the kingdom of Theodore and the devastation of these lands during the time of the Golden Horde. The excursion lasts on average 1-2 hours, and the amount of information will be very extensive, and in most cases visual. In general, the choice is yours.

This weekend route is suitable for both researchers rich history Crimea, and simply lovers of its magnificent nature. The route will be suitable for almost any healthy person. Its length in both directions is about 15 kilometers.

Cave city Tepe-Kerman good famous place, as a tourist attraction, the route there is described in many tourist guides across Crimea. But we want to offer this interesting place OUR ROUTE, which is not much longer in distance than well-known routes, but in beauty is much superior to them.

The settlement of Tepe-Kermen, from Turkic - a fortress on a peak, is a medieval fortress settlement of the Kachin group of cave cities. It is located on a steep plateau of the remnant mountain of the same name, 540 meters high, 4 kilometers southeast of the outskirts of Bakhchisarai.

Tepe-Kerman has not yet been sufficiently studied. Since no water sources were found there, it is assumed that there was a castle fortress in which the population of the area took refuge during enemy raids. The fortress existed in the VI - XIV centuries. The city reached its greatest prosperity in the 12th-13th centuries. It is assumed that the city fell from the raid of the Golden Horde beklyaribek Nogai in 1299. Tepe-Kermen differs from other cave cities of Crimea in its largest concentration of caves. More than 250 of them were found on an area of ​​about 1 hectare.

We will start OUR ROUTE from the Holy Dormition cave monastery, where you can get by regular minibus from the Bakhchisarai railway station or bus station to the final stop - Staroselye. You can park your personal car here.

The Holy Dormition Monastery is well known as one of the most popular pilgrimage places Orthodox shrines Crimea. Visiting it will not take much time, but will bring you new impressions and introduce you to this holy place.

Next we follow the road along the Iosophat Valley. These places have been well inhabited since ancient times. Here, on the cape plateau, to the north, is located the most famous and fairly well-preserved cave fortress city of the Crimean Middle Ages - Chufut-Kale. Soon a panorama of it opens cave complex, fortress walls and buildings. A stone staircase leads there. These places have seen a lot. The walls, fortifications and cave structures of the city served the Theodorites, the Crimean Tatars, and the Karaites. Ancient Muslim and Karaite cemeteries have been preserved and are protected by law.

The historical complex of Chufut-Kale requires a separate visit, so we will not dwell on its description, but will continue our route. We follow the road under the cliffs of Chufut-Kale. Above us rises a well-preserved corner of the defensive wall at the eastern gate. We pass the family cemetery of the Crimean Karaites. This is the oldest Turkic cemetery in Europe. The first monuments on it date back to the 1st century. AD You can read about the faithful service of the sons of the Karaite people to their homeland on the gravestones: “Constructed for the edification of posterity in honor of the valiant son of the Karaite people, commander of the 7th company of the Kwantung naval crew, Lieutenant TAPSASHARA, who heroically died for the TSAR AND THE FATHERLAND in battle on October 16, 1904, near the port of Arthur in front of the fortifications of the 3rd.”

Now the road takes us to the eastern wall of Chufut-Kale with a gate. Walking along the wall to the north, we come out to the cliffs of the plateau of Mount Chufut-Kale. On the edge of the northern cliffs there is a breathtaking view of the Biyuk-Ashlama valley and the Besh-Kosh plateau.

We follow further south along the western cliff of the Chufut-Kale plateau. To the south lies a magnificent panorama of the main ridge of the Crimean Mountains. Almost all of its main peaks are visible. The Chatyr-Daga mountain massif with the sharp tip of its peak Eklizi-Burun rises separately. In the background, in front of Chatyr-Dag, the domes of the Crimean Astrophysical Observatory, whose fate has already been decided.

With passage further and exit to observation deck At the top of Mount Chufut-Kale, the goal of our hike appeared - the truncated cone of Mount Tepe-Kermen. To the right you can see the spurs of the Kyz-Kule-Burun mountain, famous for the Kyz-Kermen cave settlement. Here you can take a break, admire the magnificent views, and take beautiful photographs.

We approach the southern cape of Chufut-Kale. The Kyz-Kule cliffs stood like a wall in front of us. Behind them are the peaks of Beshik-Tau and Karaul-Tepe. Now, having walked a little along the path to the west, we descend into a narrow crevice. The descent is steep, but the trees growing in the crevice help to hold on to the most difficult sections.

Having descended, we find ourselves on a marked forest road, which passes under the cliffs where we had recently been, and leads us into a pine forest at the foot of Tepe-Kermen. Here is the Sarabey tourist camp. You can rest a little before the decisive push up the steep slope up to the fort.

The path, rising steeply, leads us to the main entrance. We immediately notice the abundance of caves. There is a path to the plateau to the right, but before the ascent you can go to the left, under the cliff, to examine the cave structures of the lower level.

Now we climb the stone stairs to the plateau past the cave church with the sacristy. We go left along the cliff. About 100 meters later, on the edge of the northeastern part of the cliff, there is a cave church with a baptismal chapel. The entrance to it is difficult to notice. The landmark is grave niches located at oblique angles. This church is the most interesting object fortifications. It is well preserved and beautiful in its own way.

Let's take another trip along the Kachi River valley. The grandiose cliffs of Kachi-Kalon remained behind. Behind the village of Mashino we turn left and along the well-worn road we rise to the foot of the mountain. Further along a steep path among overgrown bushes and trees, we climb to the top of Tepe-Kermen.

The last meters of the climb up the steep path are the most difficult. But when, out of breath, you emerge from the thicket, an impressive picture suddenly opens up, a kind of reward for perseverance. A sheer rock rises like an overhanging wall, dug into two tiers of caves that go somewhere into the distance along the slope. This is the main entrance to the cave city. The caves here are low, the walls are rough, characteristic of the early stage of cave construction. In many caves, teardrop-shaped depressions have been preserved - round pits with a side groove - the remains of hearths.

Most of the caves have no front walls; part of the rock collapsed in ancient times. Most likely, there were windows and doors in this wall, and awnings and terraces stretched along it, decorating the façade of the two-story complex. The surviving staircase could have been internal and not so narrow. Nowadays in many caves you can see feeding troughs, baths and recesses for clay vessels - these are traces of the economic use of the premises. Pets were kept here after the wall collapsed.

Temples at the entrance are characteristic of many cave cities. The walls of one of the caves are processed more carefully than the others. There are three semicircular niches cut into them, obviously for cult purposes. There were vertical grooves in the walls from the wooden partition that divided the room. There are four tombs carved into the rocky outcrop leading to the adjacent cave. Three of them were later dredged and were probably used as reservoirs.

Turning right, we continue our way to the plateau. It is important not to miss another roadside temple of the 13th century - a church with a sacristy. It is located on the top tier and climbing onto its platform is not so easy. The small room is distinguished by well-finished walls and some elusive harmony of size and proportions. The horseshoe-shaped apse, oriented strictly to the east, was separated in the past by an altar barrier, the grooves from which were preserved in the walls. A solid bench was carved along the western and southern walls, and in the floor and side niche there were three tombs with a excavation for the lid. There are small niches in the northern wall.

We climb up the plateau along a staircase carved into the rock. Its height above sea level is just over 540 meters, and it rises 250 meters above the surrounding valleys. From its top there is an amazing view of the Kacha River valley.

Tepe-Kermen (“Fortress Hill”) on the southern and western sides is essentially inaccessible: the height of the cliffs here reaches 12 meters. The peculiarity of this settlement is that almost 300 artificial caves were discovered in a small area of ​​up to one hectare. Some of them are located in several tiers, there are entire complexes from two to four rooms. On west side Most of the caves form a defensive complex. The holes cut into them were intended for archery and throwing stones.

In the north-eastern part of the settlement there is a temple carved into the rock of very original architecture, unusual for medieval Taurica. To a much greater extent it is similar to cave temples Asia Minor, which was part of the Byzantine Empire. Such temples appeared during the period of iconoclasm. According to a number of researchers, this temple was built in the 8th-9th centuries. organized by icon venerators - monks and laymen who fled persecution from Byzantium and settled on our peninsula.

Its dimensions are quite large: up to 11 meters in length and from 4.2 to 5.4 m in width, and the internal space is extended not as usual, from the entrance to the altar, but along it. Worshipers were seated in a semicircle in front of the altar protruding into the church, surrounded by six columns roughly carved from solid stone. Crosses are carved at the bottom of the altar, and under the window there is a recess for the altar. Evidence from the 19th century has been preserved. that on the wall on the right side one could discern the outlines of the image of Christ. Next to the temple, a burial ground consisting of several graves was carved into the rock.

Tepe-Kermen is difficult to access, there is no source of water, so archaeological research is difficult and the site has been little studied. However, traces of numerous buildings are clearly visible throughout the settlement. Due to the small area of ​​the plateau, the estates were cramped; most residential buildings had a second floor. Near the houses there were outbuildings and sheds. Many of the caves were apparently used as pens for livestock; they contain well-preserved feeding troughs carved into the rock, in the upper edges of which there are holes for tethering animals. In a number of caves, “half rings” for lamps are carved into the stone ceiling.

A significant part of the things found as a result of archaeological excavations, fragments of amphoras, pithoi, watering plates and bowls, roofing tiles, date mainly from the 12th-14th centuries. At the same time, some of the finds date back to the 1/6th centuries, at which time Tepe-Kermen began to settle down. From the top of Tepe-Kermen, essentially the entire plateau of the neighboring settlement of Kyz-Kermen (“Maiden Fortress”) is clearly visible: they are separated only by a deep gorge.

Two nearby fortresses, separated by a deep gorge, on the slopes of which giant boulders are scattered - such a picture simply cannot do without a beautiful and tragic legend.

“It was a long time ago... Then Kyz-Kermen was a well-fortified trading city. They were ruled by a prince, whom she helped in everything amazing beauty daughter. However, the prince of neighboring Tepe-Kermen and his warlike retinue did not give anyone peace, and they constantly offended Kyz-Kermen, robbed in the surrounding valleys, robbed trade caravans and wanted to conquer the inhabitants of the city at any cost.
Enmity has settled between neighbors, and it gives rise to death, bitter tears, fields are dying, there is no trade. “We need peace, we need to raise bread and children, let love prevail,” the wise elders thought. And they decided to marry the daughter of the prince, heir to the Tepe-Kerman castle. The young couple agreed, but just before the wedding they started an argument: the young prince demanded that the bride come to his castle, but the beauty was proud and believed that the prince should come to her first. What to do? It was decided that a bridge should be built across the gorge separating Kyz-Kermen and Tepe-Kermen. Let the young people meet in the middle so that no one is offended. They did it as they decided. The wedding day has arrived. The elegant and beautiful young people, accompanied by their retinue, stepped onto the bridge and headed towards each other. But what are you going to do? Having reached the middle of the bridge, the girl, remembering old grievances, grabbed a dagger and killed the groom. The girl also died from the sword of the prince's warrior... Enmity flared up between the neighbors again. The bridge they built collapsed. Look, the huge stones from which it was built still lie all over the gorge separating both cities.”

October 2006